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3".  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(7^6)  872-4503 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  ( 
to  th 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


□    Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommag^e 

□    Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pellicul6e 

□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

□    Coloured  maps/ 
Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

□    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

□    Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relld  avec  d'autres  documents 


n 


D 


D 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  Mure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  o;>  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout6es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  iorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6X6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  oibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu^s  ci-dessous. 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul6es 


I — I    Pages  damaged/ 

I — I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


Thai 
poss 
of  th 
fllml 


Origl 

begi( 

the! 

sion, 

othe 

first 

sion, 

or  ill 


y 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d^colordes,  tachet^es  ou  piqu6es 


□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 


^ 


Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


D 


Quality  in6gale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


The 
shall 
TINl 
whic 

Map 
difffl 
entir 
begi 
right 
requ 
metl 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film6es  d  nouveau  de  faqon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  ^X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Univeriity  of  British  Columbia  Library 


L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
ginirositA  de: 

University  of  British  Columbia  Library 


The  images  appearkig  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Las  images  suivantes  ont  Ati  reprodultes  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  netteti  de  l'exemplaire  filmA,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^'  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  filmis  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmis  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  —^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmis  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  fiimi  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

'i 


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F    K  X  y  L  0  Ri  N  G   K  X  P  Is  D  1 1^  [  0  N 


TO 


Til  i:  uo('i{  V   Moi  i\'i  .\ii\ss 


IN  TIfK   \V.\\\   I81-,'. 


\\ll    TO 


ORMGON  AND  NOimi  (AMKOKNIA 


r\    THE   VF.ARS   l84M-'44. 


BREVET  CAPTAIN  J.  C.  FREMUNT, 


or     IIIE    TOUliiRAPIIICAI,    KNOINEERS, 


I'NbKK   iHK  ORDERS  OF  CoL.  J    I.  AEf-RT.  CHiKK  OF    IHK  TOPOGRAPHICAI,  KI'KEAU 


SECOND    EUrriON. Ilt.MlI.VTtU     fRO.M     THF    orFICIAL     COPT. 


W  A  S  H  I  N  (J  '1'  n  N  . 

PUBLISHED  BY  HENRY  POLKINHuKN. 


Sold  by  Tayloh,  Wilde,  &.  Co.,  No.  3,  Ellioit's  buildings,  VVashing- 

rON,   D.  C,    AND    AT    JaRVIs's   BUILDINGS,    NoRTH    STREKT,    BALTIMORE  ; 

W.  Taylor,  No.  2,  Astor  House,  and  Burgess,  String£r  &  Co., 
New  York;  G.  fV  Zeiber,  &  Co.,  Philadelphia;  Redding  &  i>o.,  Sax- 
ton  &  Kelt,  and  Jordan,  Swift,  &  Wiley,  Boston;  Robinson  & 
Jones,  Cincinnati  ;  NoxiLE  &  Dean,  Louisville,  and  C,  Marshall, 
Lexington,  Ky.  ;  Amos  Head,  Charleston,  S.  C.  ;  J.  C.  Morgan,  J. 
B.  Steel,  and  W.  McKean,  New  Orleans,  and  by  all  the  princi- 
pal BOOKSELLERS  THROUGHOUT  THE   UnITED    StATES. 


MDCCCXLV. 


TO  Tin: 

HON.   THOMAS   HAIIT    |]  EN  TON, 

Snidlor  of  l/ir  l'i)ihil  Sltitvx  froia  Missoidi, 

'V\\v  t'ollowiii^-  pnu(^s,  coinprisiiin-  the  Nnrnitiv<'  ol*  ('nptaiii 
r'Ki;M(»i\rs  lirsl  and  second  expeditions,  I  he  coiidncl  of  wliicli 
rellerts  so  nuicli  honor  on  the  chiiiacler  aiid  tahuils  ol"  thai 
most  meritorious  oHicer,  whilst  tli»!  results  redound  so  amply 
to  the  credit  oi'  the  country,  and  to  the  |)roniotion  of  know 
iediic  and  all  \\\v  best  interests  of  mankind,  is  (with  ()ermis- 
sion)  very  respectfully  dedicated  by 

THE  PUBLT^IIER. 

Washixcjton  City,   In45. 


\ 


\$ 


I 


l'IJIUJSIIKR>5    rU'KI' ATI-: 


r  Cnptniii 
of  wliicli 

s  (>r  thill 

so   iimply 
of  know 
h  [)erinis- 

BIIER. 


I 


Although  larRp  rtlilion>  (i|  ihr  irporls  nl  tlicsc  Ivvn  ii>i|iiiit;iiil  ;inil  ino.-^l  iiiitM*'  img  rxjirilitioiiM 
wcri' priiiti'il  l>y  order  (il  ( 'iiMLsrc'S,  yrl  it  Iwis  liccn  mi|i|m)S(iI  tlcil  (lir  |(uli|ir  liciiiiirnl  wuulit  mil 
lie  llicri'liv  liilly  iiK't.  It  was  hUo  JiuIitciI  rxpi'iliiMil  Id  priiil  llit'  work  in  it  t4hii|ic  wliich  inii;lil 
ivrifliT  il  iiccrsHJblf  Id  rvrry  rciidrr;  divrsliiiir  i|  of  iIk-  sciriitilic  dcliiils,  and  llir  iiHtrnnnniicid 
iihscrvuliniis  'ind  (■idcidiit'ions,  wliifli,  alllumi'li  ol'  the  lii^hi'si  iiniMirlaiicc  In  tlu'  Irrtrni'd  fi-vv,  coidd 
Udl  l>i'  s(i|i|i()scd  to  allitrd  inalcriiil  intrrcsl  lo  iho  RWioral  rciidcr.  A  work  ol  lliis  dcscriplion  should 
[lOHHPHM  rvrry  fucilily  for  diMsnnination.  '["Iicrc^  is  nol  an  individual  in  om  cnlirf  iiopulalion  lo 
whom  its  diiails  am  nol  of  irniiortaiwc;  Ihcrr  is  scarcely  one  lo  whom  its  liases  wHI  not  atVord 
Crrat  iiitcresl.  'I\)  every  citi/eii  of  the  I'liiletl  Slates  il  addresses  ilsplf  vvilh  pi'diliar  lorce,  a-,  re- 
InliuR  entirely  lo  Ainrricau  aHiiirx,  as  heiii'^  the  result  of  Auieriean  enlerpiise  and  wkill,  and  a. 
dcvplopint;  /nailers  of  \\\v  ulinosi  importance  to  American  inlercsls.  It  is  entirely  a  /lau/r  innnn- 
fiiclnri',  ami  il  needs  no  oilier  protertioii  than  that  chcprin-i  approbation  wliicli  the  piihiislier  (wi:, 
-lire  tlie  palriolisni  of  his  fcllow-citi/ens  will  award  lo  so  meritorious  a  [troihiction.  To  the  sei 
riililic  puhlii'  abroad,  as  well  as  lo  the  liberal  minded  and  iinpiirini;  reader  ni  cverv  country,  llip 
work  uill  be  very  accpplnble;  cxhibitini;  as  il  does  a  new  \ws,i\  in  tht-  history  of  the  world's  sur- 
face, and  spreading  out  before  the  eyes  ol  iiiankiml  some  of  the  •.■raiidost  scenes  in  nature,  which 
had  scan'cly  iver  before  been  viewed   by  civilized  man. 

'Japtaiii  I'hdmont  appear.-;  to  have  been  peculiarly  well  adapted  for  thu  command  of  these  ev  ■ 
pnlitions.  Posscssfid  of  more  then  an  averasji'  share  id'  bodily  vii^or,  and  mental  energy  and  c-i- 
paoity;  <pialilied  by  scicniilie  attainments,  and  an  ardeni  love  of  nalurc;  and  imbued  with  a  la  te 
toi  investiiraliiit;  the  arcana  of  the  mineral,  venelable,  and  animal  kin;,'doms,  li'm,  vet  concil- 
iatory in  his  intercoms.';  modest,  yet  di'.'iiilied  in  his  niinners;  iilleily  regardless  of  .self,  but  leel 
ingly  alive  lo  the  comforts,  the  rights,  and  the  i)iivilege.s  of  others;  blending  tho  decision  and  the 
vigor  of  a  strict  disri[)liiiarian,  with  the  kindiic-s  and  coiisideralion  of  a  fiiend,  lo  all  who  shared 
vvilii  him  the  perils  and  privations  of  hi.i  arduous  joiirnoyings — vvilh  this  combinalioti  of  (jualitie-, 
hc>  success  is  not  to  be  wondrreii  at,-  Seldom  have  so  many  accessories  lo  suci-e.ss  been  united  m 
the  leader  of  such  expeditions. 

The  first  of  lhes(!  expeditions  terminalcd  at  the  Rocky  mounlains,  and  at  the  two  point,  ol 
greatest  interest  in  that  ridge — namely,  the  South  I'ass,  and  Fremont's  Peal;;  the  former  being  the 
lowest  depression  of  the  mounlains,  through  which  the  road  lo  Oregon  now  passes;  and  (he  latter 
the  highest  elevation,  from  the  base  of  which  four  trreal  rivers  take  their  rise,  and  f1(tw  in  oppo- 
.site  directions,  toward  the  rising  and  the  setting  .sun.  'J'hc,  .second,  afler  approaching  the 
moiuUains  by  a  dilVerent  route,  eonnerts  with  the  first  expedition  at  lUe  Scnith  Pass,  and  Ihenre 
finds  Iho  great  theatre  of  its  labors  west  of  the  Rocky  inountains,  and  liclwcen  the  Oregon 
river  and  North  California.  The  thinl  expedition,  now  commencing,  will  be  direcled  lo  that  .see 
luin  of  the  Kocky  mountains  which  y;ives  rise  to  the  Arkansas,  the  Itio  <irande  del  Norte,  and  thm 
Kio  (Colorado  of  (lalifornia;  and  will  extend  west  ami  southwest  of  that  section,  so  as  to  examine 
the  country  towards  the  Pacific  ocean,  ascertain  the  lines  of  commnnicatioii  between  the  nionntain.s 
and  the  ocean  in  that  latitude,  and  comiilete  the  examination  of  the  (ireat  Salt  I.ake,  and  of  the 
interesting  region  which  embosoms  it. 

The  first  expedition  west  of  the  Mississippi,  under  the  direction  of  the  (.iovernment  of  the  United 
States,  vva.>  that  of  Lewis  and  Clauke,  which  has  been  justly  characterized  as  one  of  the  most 
cxlraordinarv  of  the  age.     Il  vvas  made  in  1801,  '.0,  and  'fi.     These  bold  advenlurcr.-s  first  made 


'  1 

I   I 


l\ 


I'KKI- ACK, 


nvtr. 


to 


IIS  ;ir>)iuint(<()  with  thf  |{')ik'.  iiioiint  iiii! ,  .iii>l  ilir  luniii  idm    tnl"     m|  Itnlitns  tvho  dwfilt  in  th«ir 
proximity,  «■>  wpII  «"  with  ihf  <  imntry  wrsi  nl  thp  ni"iiiit.iiii  ■  (n  ihf  iiiHiih  nf  ihr  Colamhia 
Till  ripr.|j»ir)ri  vvim  <  oMilmtcil  with  tiiui'h  hkill  mid  hrnvrr\ ,  .iii'l  w  .\u-  iimli  i   ureni  ohh^ationt 
ihi'ir  hnrdy  lUiini'crM  ii|hiii  iiii  until  thru  nntriiililrii  |>,it|i. 

Till'  IP  xt  r\|irditi(iii  w.iH  III  il  III  Miijiir  /.  M.  I'iki,  mi  Ih  i.'),  'tt,  an!  '/■  Tliin  i\[i«(lilian  wu 
rontiiifil  to  tl>i'  ii)t|itr  \v  itrrs  nltli''  .Mi>'>iiiviit|)i  iiiul  llir  wruiirii  pirt  <»(  lioiiinliiiiii.  Ih.  imiduct  re- 
flecli'd  iniicli  rri'dil  ii|i<iii  the  (>itlhiii(  ciiiniiiiiiidiii^  ofrircr.  '> 

We  liriii'vi  tliiit  iiDthinv  more  wiih  dcmr  tnwunU  ("(|iliiiiim  lhi'..r  wr  'cm  vvdd.  niitil  ISI!t,  when 
ttri  fxiMvlilloii  III  \hv  Kiii'ky  nioiiiit  liiiK  Wiir.  |i|.ttitii>il,  miij  llu'  I'liiMnmiiil   llifrri'l'  iilicnl  in  (lie  IniiidH 


(Mhjoi  (mow  (jdIoiu'I)  >*    11.   liONi.,  ol   till' 'I 'o|M)i;iii|ilii(':il  l)iit;iai'i'ri 


o 


two  rx 


M 


llllir    lillM.   (-UIIIIIKII 


idi'd 


pfdilions — till"  lirst,  in  I8l!»-'a0,  Id  tln'  Hmky  iinHiiitiiiii-.;  llic  spcotul,  in  IHS:),  to  the 
couroPK  of  llif  Siiiiil  I'firr,  lh>'  Irikc  ol  llu-  WdihI),  iVi-.  Nrvcral  Mi'idiitilic  i^entloiiK'n  worr  nl- 
laciicd  to  ihcHc  p\|i"ditioii.^,  and  llii>  lu'coiniN  vvliii'li  liavp  licin  |iiil>liHlird  of  llii'in,  PXti'Mdint;  to 
forr  octavo  voliiiiu'.-i,  may  In"  JU'^tly  roiiHiduri-d  an  hi-iiia  tlio  lir.sl  miMliodicrtl  and  .tcipnlillc  nolicp  ol 
the  fountriiM  visited.  We  arc  Indciilrd  ti>  Major  lioxi,  aiv!  to  liic  scii-nlitic  corp^  who  accompi 
iii"d  liiiii,  lor  niMiiy  exact  Kconraiihica!  positions,  and  loi  a  i;rcal  aiiioimi  ol'  mader  iii^hly  iliii.ti.i- 
tivp  id'  the  pioduclions,  natural  history,  and  inhalill.inls  ol  those  distant  ic^ion-. 

Another  expedition,  niidcr  tiovernor  < '\hs,  assisted  hs  .Mr.  Si  iiooli  ii  ik  r  and  othn  t;pntlrni"ii. 
V  hited  the  head  walcis  of  the  Miski  <si|ipi  ni  l">'0<l,  and  liirni^'hed  liie  hesi  map  liieii  extant  ot  thp 
country  adjacent  to  Lake  Snj)priur,  and  sonth  o|    ii. 

Colonel  Hkmi  V  I'oiKii,,  ol  the  I  niled  Slat'",  army  ,  i  oirim.mdi'l  a  .i|m  i  lion  ol  diagoon..  on  ,in 
pxpedition  Ironi  I'oil  la'a\eiu\ortli  lo  llie  Kocky  inoniitam  ,  in  the  .-niuiiii  i  t>\  \H'M->.  The  di..- 
lance  travelled  was  uboiil  •  i.xteen  liniidred  mile:.,  and  allhoiK'h  il  cannol  he  muA  that  the  e-xpeflitiou 
added  much  to  our  eeoRraphical  oi  .scipiililic  knowledqe  ol  ,iny  kind,  n  wa  •  'ondiicled  with  ureal 
jndgmeiit  on  tin-  pait  ol  it;,  (jaliani  eomii.andei,  ;uid  was  proh.ihly  the  inian.  ot  Ptjlahlishmn  pea-e 
amoim  all  the  dillerpiil  trilirt;  ol   Indians  re.sidin'^  lieiwein  the  rivers  Arkansas  and  I'latlr. 

Captain  (.'.vNFiKi, II,  of  ttie  Topo:.;raphic.tl  nnu'ineer-,  mtdp  a  survey  ol  a  load  liom  th''  vi-inKy 
ol  F'orl  liPavenv\orlh,  on  the  .Missouri,  lo  Ihal  oi'  Fort  Snelhiif;,  on  the  Misas.sippi,  in  Ihe  year 
I  Pill*. 

Mr  McCov,  of  .Mis.^oiiii,  sill  veyed  tlip  hoiinduric,  of  icil  mi  Indian  rpf.ei  valioiis.  The."  ..iir  • 
vevf.  were  afterwards  revis'-d,  in  pari,  l>\   th '  late  (',i|iiaiii  llnoii,  of  ih-"  'l"opo:4r,ipliic,il   Fiiiuinecr  .. 

It  IS  heheved  ihal  th"se  e.xpcilition-  and  survey ,i,  with  a  few  olhei  p.uii.il  ;.iitv(Vs  and  i:iolat"d 
ob.servationft  of  particular  places,  constiinle  all  thai  had  been  done,  of  a  iialnie  approachini;  lo  a',- 
curacy,  until  the  year  I  S3M 

.Mr.  j\i(to!,i.K  T,  a  rreiich  i;i'iitlemHn  of  lii-^h  s'-i'iiliii-'  all  iinmenis,  was  eii'^atjed  al  hi'  own  ex- 
pense, as  a  sciendlic  traveller,  from  IH;).}  to  18,'(8,  in  ;i  lour  lo  the  rc;;ioii  we.-.l  oi  ihe  iipjipr  Mi,- 
f-iBsippi.  The  result  of  his  researches  wa-i  a  m  iji  of  ihe  country,  full  of  inloriiiatioii,  and  sn..- 
tained  by  a  nuinprons  series  of  excellent  aslronomical  oliseuiiion--.  lii.^  \arious  joinncy ,,  were 
carefully  traced  upon  it,  and  all  the  inlbnnalion  collated,  well  dij;csl.od,  .ind  accurately  conipil'd. 
Jt  gave  new  ideas  of  tliit  coniitiy,  and  exiended  throus'li  about  live  dcjree-,  of  lonmliide  and  loin- 
degrees  of  latitude.  This  map  was  purchased  by  the  (io\ei  iimeiil,  and  Mr.  ,\iioi.i,i,r  aflei- 
wards  employed  to  make  a  similar  Hcicntilic  nriiiiiK)i^sa>u:i:  in  the  ns^ion  norlli  of  the  Misiomi,  aiel 
hetwoen  the  Missouri  and  the  Mississij)pi.  Mr.  I''ukiio\  r  accompanied  .Mr.  .\iidi,i,i;r,  aslii.ai- 
fiistanl;  and  this  was  his  first  essay  as  un  explorer.  Mr  I''(ii;mon  r  rcceivivl  ,i  ciiiiiinission  a.^  lieu- 
tenant in  the  Topo2;raphical  Engineers,  in  the  fall  of  Is;iS.  'J'he  ex|)edilion  was  eii[;ajied  m  ili 
duties  during  the  wdrkinu  .seasons  of  lt^3><aud  1830,  and  relumed  lo  VV'asliini,'toii  in  the  winbi 
of  the  latter  year,  to  prepare  the  maps  and  calculations. 

(lovernmcnt  being  disirous  to  po.s.sess  p;eo;>raplucal  iul'onnition  of  the  country  :--outh  of  the  Mis- 
fcouri,  between  that  river  and  the  Kocky  mouniain.s,  and  Mr.  Nicoi.i.kt  beiim  then  (April,  l'34'4) 
surteritig  from  that  prostration  and  sicknesjA  under  which  he  linally  bunk,  lu  the  fall  of  that  ycAi 


nil' 
uli 
til 


''    i' 


I'HKK  ACi:. 


relt  in  th«tr 
imhia  ri««r. 
^li|{aUoni  to 

•nditinn  wu 
rrtnduct  n- 

1 N I  '.I.  when 
II  ihi*  hnmla 
ruiniiiii  tided 
<'j:J,  Id  III'- 
II  were  •It 
xl'ivlinu  to 
('   iiolii'c    (il 

i»  ^urii|ll|U' 
Ills    lllll  .t|,l 

l(riil|pin"ii, 

vl.llll   III    flip 

Ollll  '  DM    ,in 
Thr    dl... 

'  r,\[ii  (liti'iii 
\Mi|i  t;r(Ml. 
■Iimi^  |"'.v  0 

r. 

Ill'     VI'  iiiify 

in  liio  yi'ar 

lie  .'  ..(ir  • 
iiiU-'iiiecr  .. 
'1  iiiolali'd 
iMi';  lo  il'".- 

own  (v- 
|»i    Mi.- 

rllld     :.ll..- 

iir\..  uuic 
i'iiiii|)il>'d. 

iiiiil  lour 
,1,1-    iillri- 

'illii,  iiliH 

:i.i  hi .  a  >- 

III  II'  licu- 

;t'ii    111   i( , 

ill'     \V111(<>1 

thr  Mi.s- 

;ii,  I  Mi) 
that    veil 


I  n<*W  fXpr-dltloil  W.tx    rnnfldril    lo    l,|i'llt>'li  ml    KlllMONI,   v^  ll>>    Il  I'l    liuiilli    led 


the  comnuind  of  thi 

,  IntflltRnirp,  iind  npliliidi' lor  mii<Ii  .hi  •'iii|i|i>vinriii,  'Iniun'   hi '  ttrrvirn*  «•  H-iiinfrttii  lo 


grmt » 

Mr.  NiroM.rr. 

Th*  lijlluwinji  iiiirr  lUvr  vmII  miU'iiii'iiiI^  iiiiiiili'  i  t.iriitni  ml  I'HtMii^i'H  vvorihiiii'' .  ot  iln  ini  I 
repoiM>d  ill  him  ihiriiii;  thi->  iiiid  iIh  hiirirriliiiK  i  \|hmIiIiiiii.  A-iMdcinr  dI  ihr  ■■  imiihIi-  vvliili 
Oovernitii'nf  lm.<  |il;irMii  ii|miii  hin  Ni-rvin-s  mid  l.thoin,  it  tn^iy  hi-  lnrr  >l  ih-i,  lli;ii  llif  I'rf  uliiii,  In 
and  wilh  llii'  ron^i'iil  nl  ihr  .'iriKilr,  in  Miirch  IhhI,  Ih'nIovmmI  ii|ii>ii  liii'iili  iiiitil  I'm  vir,  i  ihi'  hri'M't 
OOiiiiiir'Mion  III  (\i|il. till,  iiilviiiiriii;^  liiiti  r.Mi  i^raiiiM  iil  thr  ^iiiiic  tiiiii* — a  riirr  i  iiiii|i|iiiii'til,  hut  mii' 
whicli,  \\t'  lii'lii'vr,  till  will  iitiiti'  with  iis  in  Hiiyiiiu;,  wiih  wi'll  I'lirncd  mid   nrhly  di'Mnrvid. 

'I'lii'  imliliHlu'r  lliiiiK.  lliiii  ihi-  lirnl' niillinf  ol  wli.it  ii.i  I  lirni  donr  low.inU  thr  ix|i|iiriin»  lljr 
Wi'Htrrii  wild-.,  |iri'\ii)ii4  to  Ihi' r\|ii'dilioiiH  of  ('a|itaiii  l''ui.>iii>  r,  will  not  Ih'  iiniiilrri''ilini;  lo  thr 
|iiiltlic.  Ill-  iifkiiowlt'ilufM  liM  indfhtciliiiiM  lor  thr  iiiiiti'ri:iU  lo  .i  I'oiimiiiirnalioii  wliiih  iiii[ii'ir»"l  in 
"  'I'/ir  I'lilmi"  .1  r<  w  wrrli-*  sinci'.  iiiid  which  liciirxlhc  itiiirlxH  of  (<///>/(// roiri'itniHs. 

('ii|il,iiii  I'liDMii-.  i'h  liiliiMN  iiiivi'  iid'li'il  inn  h  lo  mir  inrNioiis  iiiliiriiKilion  in  ii  iifoi;ni|iIiH'iil,  ( om 
nirni.il,    iind    .sriiiilirir   |Miinl    of  vi   w.      'I'lir   tollowini{  I'Nlrinl    Iroiii   a   ri'virw    ol'  lii<    "  ri'iioil.," 
whii  II  ii|i|iriiici|  in  ihi'  "  Siil'iiiinl  lihlhu^i  iif  r"  diiiinn  ihi'  iii  I  i.ioiilli.  will  |iii|.iii'  llir  ii.iiln  tm 
th''  lull  ilc\i'lo|iiiii'iil  iiiMili'  in  III!' tollowiiuj  |i  it{i'-i. 

"In  ut  oi;rii|ihi<  III  iliMCoM'i'y  <'ii|il:iiii  l''ii  kmuni'  iiiiM  doiic  inuili  lie  hin  sliowii  ihil  llir  It, in. it 
;i.\ii..-  tin-  l'ocl<y  iiiiiiniliiiiis,  |i:Mtiini;iils  ill  Ihr  Sonlluiii  I'lis.s  i  >  iiiiii|i,ir:ili\i'|y  r.isv  ;  Ihii  th"" 
|.ni|iiiilion  ol  aii'oliili'ly  linrrii  roniilry  i>  sitrill ;  Ihiil,  fVoiii  wilhiii  I'lii'  hninln'd  iiiid  lilly  inilr..  ol 
ihf  .Missouri  liontioi  to  iIh-  loiiniiiiili'  ol'  I'orl  l.;ir;iniii',  (  IC'i'-'  I'l',)  Ihrrr  is  in  itcni'rul  irriMl  )ili'iil\ 
of  Ihr  KJiort  rnrly  uriiss  imIIi-iI  IuiIIjIo  nr.i.ss,  W't'slwmd  ol'  ],ariiiiiti',  lor  a  (■onsiilnahlf  diHt.  tier, 
llif  ifsioii  is  h.indy  and  a|i|iarriilly  hti'rilr,  and  llu'  plnT  n|'  ihc  L''ra-H  i.s  iisiir|U'i|  hy  ihr  iiriMiii'.in, 
clhcr  I'li'-.ililic:*,  whrri"  tlicri'  i -^  ii  di'liciciicy  of  jiasturiiiii',  iirc  I'iniid  on  hotli  '  idrs  ol  tlu'  tiiiiiiiilaiii' . 
('Ii'".r  ('\iiriliiion^,  liii\vr\i'r,  will  rmni^h  to  liadiiii;  'aravaii-s  nr  lo  nni.'.iiiliiiy  |iarlir...,  ii  I,  now  Inl'.'/- 
nl  llii'  inosl  |ir;tiiicalilr  routes,  wliihr  tlii'v  may  inosi  ijiiirr.illy  liii'l  i-iislcnatici'  lialliiii  iiniinals, 
,iiid  water  and  I'liel  lor  iheiiiselveH.  'I'he  road  to  Orison  \\\\\  he  iiiiidc  ci'iitiiaralivcly  ca-A  ;  iind 
although  the  enii(;raiil  \\\\'\  e()iilem|i|.ili's  lakiiiu  ii|i  his  line  ot  mar.  Ii  lo  llial  dislaiil  ri'i;ion  iini;lii 
to  lie  a  I 'I  iri /.I'd  of,  and  t;ii  irded  a','aiii>l,  //"  (/inii;i'.\,  lln  illj/iri/'/i.y,  diirf  lln  jirriiliniis  //»  ir  II 
■'lurr  III  '  .iinnnhr,  yet  lie  m.iy  he  elieeri'd  li\  the  eirtainly  that  he  will  iiiret  with  nnlhiii;',  ImiI  \\IihI 
tor<";i';hl  and  jinideini  m.iy  in  a  f;ieal  lie  .isnro  |irolect  him  IVom,  an  I  ennrai'i't  rniiitie  .>,  and  |iei- 
■  .M'raiiee  oM-reome  I  If  willlie  ealled  n]i  ni  lo  e\eii'i.-.e  all  these  i|ii;tlitii  .  ;  :ind  the  liii'' I  i|ani;ei 
I'll  .  error  into  whi'li  le'  ean  I'all  is  |.>  iiuadne  Ihal  the  jonrney  is  an  easy  ii;ie,  and  ihe  |.ii|  niiil 
iilleim!;  wliieh  he  will  li  i\e  lo  under(^o  Irilliii;:  and  nniiniMirlanI . 

"The  (iriMl  S.ill  liiiUe,  the  Keiir  Kiser  \'alley,  and  Ihe  livei's.  Ihe  \;il|i\s,  ;iimI  llie  iniiiiiil:iiii  .  ol 
I'lHier  Calilornia,  may  lie  said  to  lie  now  lirsl  hroie'lil  to  the  knowled'e  ol' eivili/ed  man  hv  itu'k'.'' 
I  [leililioiis.  'The  eorreelioii  of  oiir  liirmer  !;eo:rra|iliieal  errors  wilh  res|iecl  to  the  river  liiirmin  i/- 
I'lni  \'.  e  invr  to  Cijiliin  I  iii,'.io\  r;  the  e\i-.|eiiee  ol  a  '.;rial  eentral  plain  or  liasin  in  ('ililoinia  i. 
r  ialili.;lie  I  hy  him,  ai  is  idso  the  imp'irtanl  linl  ihal  there  is  no  river  of  anv  iia\it;a'>|e  M/r  whieh 
li.is  Its  iiiifi'  I  (InC'lljl  lillii  till  I'livijii ,  mill  run'  iiiiiiiiriilf  \  i''illi  llir  inslrrn  ulnfii  n/'inn  r-iiil  iii  nl, 
fjriiil  Ihr  ('i/linnlilti,  helween  llllV  denrees  nl  northern  latitude  .mil  the  (Jnll'  ot  (Jalirornia  In  ,1 
military  |ioiiil  ol'  view,  tliese  e\|ieililions  |ioinl  mil  where  I'ort^  and  posts  may  lie  iim^l  aihanla^eouilv 
r  I'lhli  dl'-il,  wilh  .1  view  |.i  thi'  s  il'e  o!'cn|ianey  ol'  Ihe  eouiilry  and  the  proleetinii  111'  the  inliahilant  . 
•nid  Ihe  trader  liom  Indian  onliaije,  m  rrmn  a'4'.^re.^sions  or  inlerlerenei  s  ol'  ;iiii,  kind.  Thi,, 
«e  helicM',  was  tlie  priilesseillv  anthori/.ed  oli|('il  ol  ( 'aplain  l''reiiioiit's  iwprditions  ^  lail  In  .iidenf 
and  iietive  temperamenl,  and  his  Iwve  of  seii'iice  and  kiiuwledcjo,  eoiild  not  rest  salistled  with  a  hare 
I'rformance  of  presrriheil  dulies.  lie  has  sulimiltcd  to  hi.  eonnliym 'ii  and  the  world,  in  hi.',  uii- 
(Ti'tendinp;  and  modest  narralive,  a  va-t  hudy  of  holanieil,  fjeolonie  d,  and  ineteorolouieal  infniriM 
IK'H.  The  soil  and  the  mineral  water-  ha\e  heen  siilijecled  to  .in.dysis.  Muii'  than  fiuir  hundred 
.iiid  thirty  a.slroiiomie.d  ohser\alions  arc  rei'orih'd,  Ihe  lalitinle  and  longitude  of  impoitanl  point 
H'  iiiately  delerminr.l,  and  the  elevation  of  iiiouiiiains  iiseeitained.  The  survey  ol  ('aplam  l''nt- 
viivr  from  the  eavtward  meels  that  of  ('aptiin  Wii.kks  from  Ihe  westward,  and,  so  far  ;« -  i  leoni- 
•lle  fill   ;dl  immeiliale   j'ri'lieal  purposes^   the   iiiip  of  OreLrmi  is  I'omplelf . "" 

l)|ie  ^re.ii  iiii'ril  ol'  ( ',ip!ai  ii  rai^ioN-r  a- a  IraM'ller  is  e\p:es-e..l  in  iln'  eoneludiii:;  H'li'enie  ol 
111'.  pielator\   iintiee,       llesiy.-; 

"The  report,  or  narrative,  el'  this  extended  i  xjiedition,  like  the  iimji:,  wh.ieh  )llie,liali  il,  will  hr 
strictly  confined  to  whii  wis  .'.eeii,  and  to  what  is  luri'-sary  lo  ,-liow  the  laee  and  eharacter  of  the 
i'Hinlr\,  and  to  hiM  ,-oiiif|!iiii2  to  seieiee  while  lnlfilli:iM  the  iii-trnetioiis  of  the  (ioverritii'»iit,  winch 


vi 


I'KKFACi:. 


br  Inlrrwt  mitt^t 
iiM^i  \mft  to  wiharr 


I  hirflv  ( nnfi'ni|iliiti il  n  militurv  ln|iii(rttiphi<'al    <iirvi'y.      A   Br»>i»lrr  i|ri»fii>  of  poptili 
\\,^\l^  Imtii   iiii|miIiiI  In  il  li\  .tiliiiillintr  a  itriiili  i    l.ililinli'  nl  ilrlml,  litil  il  w.ih  iIi>4uii«hI  rnwt  to  wlliarr 
Id  ilir  iik(<iiiiiiM  rlciimii  I  i>i  ,|  ii/inrf,  iiiiil  i>>  |irrsnii  iiiiihinu,  I'lllicr  III  \\v  iiitrrnliv*  or  in  th«  inii|i«, 
wliii'li  vs^i-  iimI  llir  rr'>iill  itl  |iiii«itiM'  oli.ri viilioii." 

<'ii|itiiiii  I'lo  viiNT  i'<  now  iilwihl  on  liix  iliinl  cviirililioti  j  mi>  liHik  liirwuril  lo  hin  return  with 
iiini'li  iiIi'iikIiik  iiMlici|iulioii.  W'l*  I'l'il  iikhiikiI  iIiiI  iIic  i'oMil)iiiiilioii  ol  Mir  hhhIim  ni  Ida  thiM  viaiu 
lo  lilt-  "  Wi'mi"  s\ill  loriii  It  |iroilii(iioii  vvorlliy  of  lliiK  t'iilii;lilriiril  ,\t',v,  worthy  of  oiir  nounlry 
iiiiil  oiii  (lOVcniMinil,  iiiiil  Inulily  i  rrilit.ililr  lo  iN  iinllior.  Il  will  lir,  wr  iiif  roiiv  ith'i'il,  n  fit  iif1i>r- 
iiii;  III  iIk'  rliiMK'  o|  Iiii>r;iliiir  iiihI  >-<  Iiimi*,  Iroiii  oiir  >oiimk  iiimI  l|oiiri>liiii;{  Hi'|iiili|ii',  l>y  ll|i-  Initidi 
o|  oiii'  ol'  liiT  iimi.hI  liili'iilril  iinil  iiiniiilil)'  noiih. 

Willi  llii'Mt'  |tii'liilory  olwiMvalioiiM,  we  Hiilimit  llu'  lollitwiii^  n  iriiili\r  lo  llii>  |Mililii',  ;inil  rcrl  llml 
wi*   iiir  oiti'rini!    i   ritli  I'iiikI    ol'  iiiliUcctlliil  riijoyiiii'iit  lo  u  mtn  iiiiiik  ioiih  |i>iiIioii  nl   mii  li'lli 
I  ili/riiN. 

VV'ahiiin).  ION,   IKt"). 


low 


J 


liar  IntrrMt  miKht 
iMsl  beat  to  K(lh«rr> 
vp  or  In  lh«  iiMiHi, 

i<i  hiM  rtturn  with 
I  1)1'  liiH  thr«0  viaiU 
ly  oi'  oiir  counlry 

villi  ••'I,  II  (U  (ifTfr- 
li|n',  hy  llii'  Ii.iihIm 

ililic,  .mil  (ill  (III) 
on  III   iiiir  I'l'lliiw 


A    KKI'Oin 


AN  ivXi'LouA  rioN  or  rill':  (orN'i'KV 


i.riMi    Hf  Twn  >    iiM 


MISSOURI  RIVER  AiNl)  THE  RUCivV  MOl^NTAINS, 


ON     THE    I.I.VF.    OF 


THE  KANSAS  AND  GREAT  IM.ATTK  RIVERS. 


^ 


>p. 


1 


,  ^,*1 


IMIIST  EXri:i)ITIOi\-LvU. 


r* 


U'AHniNtiToN,  March  I,  1S43. 

To  (  ololiol  J.  J.  A'IKHT, 

«|  Chh'Jof  the  Corps  of  Ttipdf^rdjihictil  /'Intfineers  : 

Siu  :  At,'i('o;il)ly  lo  your  oidiTs  lo  cxplor*'  aiiM  njporf  ii|)(»ii  llic  comilry 
Ik.'Iwccii  tlio  (Voniii'is  ol'  Missouri  mid  the  Souili  Pass  iu  tlio  Kocivy  luoi.ii- 
taiiiN,  and  ou  llie  luio  ol'tliu  Kansas  and  (iruai  PlatU>  rivers,  I  sal  out  irom 
WashiiiylDii  city  on  the  ,'d  day  o|'  May,  Ijsl'^,  and  arrived  al  St.  I^ouis,  hy 
way  of  New  ^'^)rl\,lll''  '-"Jd  td'  May,U'lif're  the  necessary  |treparati()ns  were 
(■i)ni|iletcMl,  and  the  expechiioM  r'otnnK'nced.  1  piocecded  in  a  steand)i)al  to 
(Chouteau's  laiidinir,  ahoul  lour  hundred  miles  hy  water  iVoni  St.  Louis, 
and  near  Iht;  niouih  of  the  Kati'"'!  river,  whence  we  proceeded  twelve 
nules  to  Mr.  Cyprian  ('h<)ut(;au's  tri  ling  house,  whore  wo  coinplet<;d  our 
final  arraiii^'eiuenis  for  the  exi)e(Jiiion. 

Had  weather,  which  interfered  with  astronotnieal  observations,  delayed 
ns  .several  days  iu  th<i  early  part  of  Juno  at  this  post,  which  is  on  the  ri^ht 

■*■  hank  of  the  Kansas  river,  ahout  ten  miles  above  the  mouth,  and  six  be- 
yond tln!  western  boundary  of  Mi.ssouri.  The  sky  cleared  off  at  length, 
and  wt!  W(!re  enabled  to  delermiiK;  oin*  position,  in  longi.ude  fJ4''  2.')'  -Ki", 
and  latitude  30°  5'  57".  'I'ho  elevation  above  the  :-,eu  is  ubout  700  feet. 
Our  eauip,  in  the  mean  limc!,  presented  an  aniniated  and  bustling  scene. 
All  were  busily  occupied  in  con.ph^tin:,'  lla;  necessary  arrani,M!ments  for 
oiu' campaign  iu  the  wilderness,  and  i)rofuini,'  by  this  short  delay  on  the 
verge  of  civilization,  to  provide  ourselves  with  all  the  littU,  essentials  to 
condbrt  in  iho  nomaiUc  life  we  were  to  lead  for  the  ensuing  summer 
months.  Gradually,  however,  every  thing — the  mu/cricl  of  tht!  camp,  men, 
horses,  and  even  mules — settled  into  its  place,  and  by  the  loth  we  were 
ready  to  depart;  but,  before  we  moimt  our  liorses,  I  will  give  a  .short  de- 

I    scripiion  of  the  i)ariy  with  which  I  performed  this  .service. 

I  had  collected  m  the  neighborhood  of  St.  Louis  twenty-one  men,  prin- 
cipally Creole  and  (^aiuuhan  voytti^ciirs,  who  iiad  become  I'amiliar  Willi 
prairie  life  in  the  service  of  the  lur  companies  iu  the  Indian  country.  Mr. 
Charles  Preuss,  a  native  of  Germany,  was  my  assistant  in  the  topographi- 
cal part  of  the  survey.  L.  Maxwell,  of  Kaskaskia,  liad  been  engaged  as 
hunter,  and  Christo[)her  Carson  (more  familiarly  known,  for  his  exploits  in 
the  mountains,  as  Kit  Carson)  was  our  guide.  The  persons  engaged  ui 
St.  Louis  were : 

Clement  Lamber*,  J.  li.  L'Espeiance,  .1.  B.  Lefovre,  Benjamin  Potra, 
Louis  Gouin,  J.  li.  IJumes,  Basil  Lajeuncsso,  Fram^ois  Tessier,  Benjamin 
Cadoite,  Joseph  Clement,  Daniel  Simonds,  Leonard  lienoit,  Michel  Morly, 
Baj)tisto  Bernier,  Honore  Ayot,  Francois  Latulippe,  FraiH;ois  Badeau, 
Louis  Menard,  Jos(!pli  Ruelle,  Moise  Cliardoimais,  Augiiste  Janisse,  Ra- 
phael Prone 

1 


10 


CAPT.  FREMOKTiS  NAKRATIVE. 


i 
I 

I- 

■| , 
■'I 


■f, 

'{■' 


[1148. 

In  addition  to  these,  Henry  HranI,  son  of  f'ol.  .1.  13.  Brant,  of  St.  Lotlif, 
a  young  man  of  nineteen  years  of  age,  and  Jiandolph,  a  lively  boy  of 
twelve,  son  of  the  Hon.  ThonuivS  H.  lienton,  afconijianied  mo,  for  the  de- 
velopment of  mind  and  body  which  such  an  expedition  would  give.  We 
were  all  well  armed  and  mounted,  willi  iIk;  exception  (<f  eight  mo.H,  who 
condueted  as  many  carts,  in  which  were  packed  our  stores,  with  the  bag- 
gage and  instruments,  and  which  were  each  drawn  by  two  mules.  A  few 
loose  horses,  and  four  oxen,  which  had  been  added  to  our  slock  of  pro- 
vision'-, completed  the  train.  We  sat  out  on  tin;  morning  of  the  10th, 
which  Happened  to  be  Friday — a  circumstance!  which  our  ini'ii  did  not  fail 
to  remend)er  and  recall  during  the  hardships  and  vexations  of  the  ensuing 
journey.  jMr.  ('yprian  Chouteau,  to  whose  kindness,  during  our  stay  at 
tiis  house,  we  were  much  indebted,  accompanied  us  several  miles  on  our 
way,  until  we  met  an  Indian,  whom  he  had  engaged  to  conduct  us  on  the 
first  thirty  or  forty  miles,  where  he  was  to  consign  us  to  the  ocean  of 
prairie,  which,  we  were  told,  stretched  without  interruption  almost  to  the 
base  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 

From  the  belt  of  wood  which  borders  the  Kansas,  in  which  we  had 
passed  several  good-looking  Indian  farms,  we  suddenly  emerged  on  the 
prairies,  which  received  us  at  the  outset  with  some  of  their  striking  char- 
acteristics ;  for  here  and  there  rode  an  Indian,  atid  but  a  few  miles  distant 
heavy  clouds  of  smoke  were  rolling  before  ilie  fire.  In  about  ten  miles 
we  reached  the  Santa  Fe  road,  along  which  we  coniiimed  for  a  short  time, 
and  encaniped  early  on  a  small  stream  :  having  travelled  about  eleven 
miles.  During  our  journey,  it  was  the  customary  practice  to  encamp  an 
hour  or  two  before  sunset,  when  the  carts  were  disposed  so  as  to  form  a 
sort  of  barricade  around  a  circle  some  eighty  yards  in  diameter.  The 
tents  were  pitched,  and  the  horses  hobbled  and  turned  loose  to  graze  ; 
and  but  a  few  minutes  elapsed  before  the  cooks  of  the;  messes,  of  which 
there  were  four,  were  busily  engaged  in  preparing  the  evening  meal.  At 
nightfall,  the  horses,  mules,  and  oxen,  were  driven  in  and  picketed  — 
that  is,  secured  by  a  halter,  of  which  one  end  was  tied  to  a  small  steel - 
shod  picket,  and  driven  into  the  ground  ;  the  halter  being  twenty  or  thirty 
feet  long,  which  enabled  them  to  obtain  a  little  food  during  the  night. 
When  we  had  reached  a  part  of  the  country  where  such  a  precaution  be- 
came necessary,  tlie  carts  being  regularly  arranged  for  defending  the 
camp,  guard  was  mounted  at  eight  o'clock,  consisting  of  three  men,  who 
were  relieved  every  two  hours;  the  morning  watch  being  horse  guard  for 
the  day.  At  daybreak,  the  camp  was  roused,  the  animals  turned  loose  to 
graze,  and  breakfast  generally  over  between  six  and  seven  o'clock,  when 
we  resumed  our  march,  making  regularly  a  halt  at  noon  for  one  or  two 
hours.  Such  was  usually  the  order  ot  the  day,  except  when  accident  of 
country  forced  a  variation ;  which,  however,  happened  but  rarely.  We 
travelled  the  next  day  along  'he  Santa  Fe  road,  which  we  left  in  the  af- 
ternoon, and  encamped  late  in  the  evening  on  a  small  creek,  called  by  the 
Indians  Mishmagwi.  Just  as  we  arrived  at  camp,  one  of  the  horses  set 
off  at  full  speed  on  his  return,  and  was  followed  by  others.  Several  men 
were  sent  in  pursuit,  and  returned  with  the  fugitives  about  midnight, 
with  the  exception  of  one  man,  who  did  not  make  his  appearance  until 
morning.  He  had  lost  his  way  in  the  darkness  of  the  night,  and  slept  on 
the  prairie.  Shortly  after  midnight  it  began  to  rain  heavily,  and,  as  our 
tents  were  of  light  and  thin  cloth,  they  ofl'ered  but  little  obstruction  to 


:i:i 


[IS49. 

>f  St.  Louit, 
lively  boy  of 

for  the  de- 
I  give.  We 
It  mnR,  who 
iih  the  bag- 
lies.  A  few 
lock  of  pro- 
of the  10th, 
I  did  not  fail 
'  llie  eiisiiiiiL? 

our  stay  at 
niles  on  our 
ict  us  on  tho 
lie  ocean  of 
ilniosl  to  the 

)ich  we  had 

rged  on  the 

iiikhig  char- 

iiiilcs  distant 

lit  ten  miles 

a  short  lime, 

ibont  eleven 

encamp  an 

s  to  form  a 

meter.     The 

;e  to  graze  ; 

?s,  of  which 

g  meal.     At 

picketed — 

small  steel - 

nty  or  thirty 

g  the  night. 

caution  be- 

fending   the 

men,  who 

*se  guard  for 

led  loose  to 

clock,  when 

one  or  two 

accident  of 

rarely.     We 

t  in  the  af- 

ixlled  by  the 

e  horses  set 

everal  men 

It  midnight, 

irance  until 

md  slept  on 

and,  as  our 

striiction  to 


1849.} 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


11* 


rain;  we  were  all  well  soaked,  and  glad  when  morning  came.  VVc  had  a 
rainy  inarch  on  thi;  12th,  but  the  weather  grew  fine  as  the  day  advanced. 
We  encamped  ill  a  remarkably  beautiful  situation  on  the  Kansas  blulfs, 

[  'iwhich  commanded  a  hue  view  of  the  river  valley,  here  from  three  to  four 
Dttiles  wide.  The  central  portion  was  occupied  by  a  broad  belt  of  heavy 
limber,  and  neare.r  the  hills  the  prairies  were  of  the  richest  verdure.     One 

[,i;bf  the  oxen  was  killed  here  for  food. 
■'  Wo  reached  the  ford  of  the  Kansas  late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  14th, 
where  the  river  was  two  hundred  and  thirty  yards  wide,  and  commenced 
immediately  prej)aratioiis  for  crossing.  I  had  expected  to  find  the  river 
f  )rdable  ;  but  it  had  been  swollen  by  the  late  rains,  and  was  sweeping  by 
with  an  angry  current,  yellow  and  turbid  as  the  Missouri.  Up  to  this 
point,  the  road  we  had  travelled  was  a  remarkably  fine  one,  well  beaten, 
a. id  level — the  usual  road  of  a  prairie  country,  ily  our  route,  the  ford  was 
otie  hundred  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  river.  Several  mounted 
UKMi  led  the  way  into  the  stream,  to  swim  across.  The  animals  were 
driven  in  after  them,  and  in  a  few  minutes  all  had  reached  the  opposite 
bank  in  safely,  with  the  ex(^eption  ol  the  oxen,  which  swam  some  dis- 
tance down  the  river,  and,  returning  to  the  right  bank,  were  not  got  over 
until  the  next  morning.  In  the  mean  time,  the  carts  had  been  unloaded 
and  dismantled,  and  an  India-rubber  boat,  which  I  had  brought  with  me 
for  the  survey  of  th(^  Platte  river,  placed  in  the  water.  The  boat  was 
twenty  feet  long  and  five  broad,  and  on  it  were  placed  the  body  and 
wheels  of  a  cart,  with  tlie  load  belonging  to  it,  and  three  men  with  paddles. 
The  velocity  of  the  current,  and  the  inconvenient  freight,  rendering  it 
didicult  to  be  managed,  Basil  Lajeunesse,  one  of  our  bi^st  swimmers,  took 
in  his  teetli  a  line  attached  to  the  boat,  and  swam  ahead  in  order  to  reach 
a  footing  as  soon  as  possible,  and  assist  in  drawing  her  over.  In  this  man- 
ner, six  |)assages  had  been  successfully  »iade,and  as  many  carts  with  their 
contents,  and  a  greater  portion  of  the  party,  deposited  ou  the  left  bank ; 
but  night  was  drawing  near,  and,  in  our  anxiety  to  have  all  over  before 
the  darkness  closed  in,  I  put  upon  the  boat  the  remaining  two  carts,  with 
their  accompanying  load.  The  mat)  at  the  helm  was  timid  on  water,  and, 
in  his  alarm,  capsized  the  boat.  Carts,  barrels,  boxes,  and  balesj  were  in 
a  moment  floating  down  the  current :  but  all  tlie  men  who  were  on  the 
shore  jumped  into  the  water,  without  stopping  to  think  if  they  could 
swim,  and  almost  everything — even  heavy  articles,  such  as  guns  and  lead — 
was  recovered. 

Two  of  the  men,  who  could  not  swim,  came  nigh  being  drowned,  and 
all  the  sugar  belonging  to  one  of  the  messes  wasted  its  sweets  on  the 
muddy  waters ;  but  our  heaviest  loss  was  a  bag  of  coffee,  which  con- 
tained nearly  all  our  provision.  It  was  a  losfi  which  none  but  a  traveller 
in  a  strange  and  inhospitable  country  can  appreciate  ;  and  often  afterward, 
when  excessive  toil  and  long  marcliiiig  had  overcome  us  with  fatigue  and 
weariness,  we  remembered  and  mourned  over  our  loss  in  the  Kansas. 
Carson  and  Maxwell  had  been  much  in  the  water  yesterday,  arid  both,  in 
consequence,  were  taken  ill.  The  former  continuing  so,  I  remained  in 
camp.  A  number  of  Kansas  Indians  visited  us  to-day.  Going  up  to  one 
of  the  groups  wlio  were  scattered  among  the  trees,  I  found  one  sitting  on 
the  ground,  among  some  of  the  men,  gravely  and  fluently  speaking  French, 
"with  as  much  facility  and  as  little  embarrassment  as  any  of  ray  own  party, 
who  were  nearly  all  of  French  origin. 


13 


CAPT.  FRKMONT'S  NARRATIVR. 


E1848. 


On  all  sides  was  hoard  tlio  sfraiii^n  language  of  liis  own  people,  wild, 
and  harmonizing  well  with  their  appearance.  I  listened  to  hitn  for  some 
lime  with  feelings  of  strange  curiosity  and  interest,  lie  was  now  appa* 
renlly  thirty-five  years  of  age  ;  and,  on  inquiry,  I  learned  that  he  had  been 
at  St.  Loms  when  a  boy,  and  there  had  learned  the  I'^rench  language. 
From  one  of  the  Indian  wonmn  I  obtained  a  fine  cow  and  caU  in  exchange 
for  a  yoke  of  oxen.  Several  of  them  brought  us  vegetables,  pumpkins, 
onions,  beans,  and  lettuce.  One  of  them  brought  butter,  and  from  a  lialf- 
breed  near  the  river  1  had  the  good  fortune  to  obtain  some  twenty  or 
thirty  pounds  of  coilee.  The  dense  timber  in  which  we  had  encanqx'd 
interfered  with  astronomical  observations,  and  our  wet  and  damaged 
stores  required  exposure  to  the  sun.  Accordingly,  the  tents  were  struck 
early  the  next  morning,  and,  leaving  camp  at  six  o'clock,  we  moved  about 
seven  miles  up  the  river,  to  a  handsome,  open  prairie,  some  twenty  leet 
above  the  water,  where  the  fine  grass  atlbrded  a  luxurious  repast  to  our 
horses. 

During  tiie  day  we  occupied  ourselves  in  making  astronomical  observa- 
tions, in  order  to  lay  down  the  country  to  this  place ;  it  being  our  custom 
to  keep  up  our  map  regularly  in  the  field,  which  we  found  attended  with 
many  advantages.  The  men  were  kept  busy  in  drying  the  provisions, 
painting  the  cart  covers,  and  otherwise  completing  our  equipage,  until  the 
afternoon,  when  powder  was  distributed  to  them,  and  they  spent  some 
hours  in  firing  at  a  mark.  We  were  now  fairly  in  the  Indian  country,  and 
it  began  to  be  time  to  prepare  for  the  chances  of  the  wilderness. 

Friday,  June  17. — The  weather  yesterday  had  not  permitted  us  to  make 
the  observations  I  was  desirous  to  obtain  here,  and  I  therefore  did  not 
move  to-day.  The  people  continued  their  target  firing.  In  the  steep  bank 
of  the  river  here,  were  nests  of  innumerable  swallows,  into  one  of  which 
a  large  prairie  snake  had  got  about  half  his  body,  and  was  occupied  in 
eating  the  young  birds.  The  old  ones  were  flying  about  in  great  distress, 
darting  at  him,  and  vainly  endeavoring  to  drive  him  off.  A  shot  wound- 
ed him,  and,  being  killed,  he  was  cut  open,  and  eighteen  young  swallows 
were  found  in  his  body.  A  sudden  storm,  that  burst  upon  us  in  the  after- 
noon, cleared  away  in  a  brilliant  sunset,  followed  by  a  clear  night,  which 
enabled  us  to  determine  our  position  ui  longitude  95°  3S'  05",  and  in  lati- 
tude 39°  06'  40". 

A  party  of  emigrants  to  the  Columbia  river,  under  the  charge  of  Dr. 
Wliite,  an  agent  of  the  Government  in  Oregon  Territory,  were  about  three 
weeks  in  advance  of  us.  They  consisted  of  men,  women,  and  children. 
There  were  sixty-four  men,  and  sixteen  or  seventeen  families.  They  had 
a  considerable  number  of  cattle,  and  were  transporting  their  household 
furniture  in  large  heavy  wagons.  J  understood  that  there  had  been  much 
sickness  among  them,  and  that  they  had  lost  several  children.  One  of  the 
party,  who  had  lost  his  child,  and  whose  wife  was  very  ill,  had  left  them 
about  one  hundred  miles  hence  on  the  prairies;  and  as  a  iumter,  who  had 
accompanied  them,  visited  our  camp  this  evening,  we  availed  ourselves  of 
his  return  to  the  States  to  write  to  our  friends. 

The  morning  of  the  18th  was  very  unpleasant.  A  fine  rain  was  falling, 
with  cold  wind  from  the  north,  and  mists  made  the  river  hills  look  dark 
and  gloomy.  We  left  our  camp  at  seven,  journeying  along  the  foot  of  the 
hills  whicli  border  the  Kansas  valley,  generally  about  three  miles  wide, 
and  extremelv  rich.     We  halted  for  dinner,  after  a  march  of  about  thir- 


£1849.    ■  lM9i} 


CAl'T.  FKliMONTVS  NARUATIVK 


13 


)eople,  wild, 

iin  for  some 

now  appa- 

lic  had  been 

:h  language. 

in  (ixcliange 

,  pumpkins, 

I'roni  a  luilf- 

e  twenty  or 

d  ciicunipcd 

11(1  tliiinaccd 

were  slrnelc 

moved  about 

twenty   feet 

[!past  to  our 

ical  obscrva- 
•  our  (Misloni 
tended  willi 
!  provisions, 
ige,  until  the 
spent  some 
country,  and 
ss. 

d  us  to  make 

lore  did  not 

e  steep  bank 

ne  of  which 

occupied  in 

reat  distress, 

hot  woimd- 

swallows 

n  the  after- 

igiit,  which 

:ind  in  lati- 

arge  of  Dr. 

about  three 

d  children. 

They  had 

household 

been  much 

One  of  the 

1   left  them 

r,  who  had 

ourselves  of 

was  falling, 
look  dark 
foot  of  the 
miles  wide, 
about  tliir- 


After 


teen  miles,  on  the  banks  of  one  of  the  many  liillf  tributaries  to  ihr  Kaii- 
which  look  lilce  trenches  in  the  priiiric,  ami  are  usually  well  timbered. 
)ssing  this  streaui,  1  rode  olf  some  miles  to  the  left,  attracteil  bv 
the  appearance  of  a  cluster  of  huts  near  the  mouth  of  the  Vermillion.  It 
tlnras  a  large  but  d(!si!rted  Kansas  village,  scattered  in  an  open  wood,  along 
the  margin  of  the  stream,  on  a  spot  chosen  with  tlu;  cusloiiuiry  Indian 
tfondness  lor  beauty  of  scenery.  The  I'awnees  had  attacked  it  in  the  early 
pipring.  Some  of  the  houses  were  burnt,  and  others  blackened  with  smoke, 
and  weeds  were  already  getting  possession  of  the  cleared  places.  Riding 
up  the  Vermillion  river,  I  reached  the  ford  in  time  to  meet  iIk;  carts,  and, 
crossing,  encamped  on  its  western  side.  Tiu;  weather  continued  cool,  the 
thermometer  being  this  ev(>ning  as  low  as  4!)°;  but  iIk;  night  was  sulliciently 
clear  for  astronomical  obstsrvaiions,  which  placed  us  in  longitud(!  !j()"  04' 
07",  and  latitude  3f>M5'  19".  At  snnsct,  the  barometer  was  at  2S..S 4 o, 
thermometer  04^. 

We  breakfasted  the  next  morning  at  hall"  past  live,  and  left  oiir  encamp- 
ment early.  The  morning  was  cool,  the  thermometer  being  at  45''.  (Quit- 
ting the  river  bottom,  I  Ik;  road  ran  alonu  the  uplands,  over  a  rolling  country, 
g(;iierally  m  view  of  the  Kansas,  frotn  ei-^lit  to  twelve  miles  distant.  Many 
large  boulders,  of  a  very  compact  sandstone,  of  various  shades  of  red,  some 
of  them  four  or  five  tons  in  weight,  were  scattered  along  the  hills;  and 
many  beautiful  plants  in  liower,  amontr  which  the  (tinurphn  viDicscena 
was  a  characteristic,  enlivened  the  green  of  the  prairie.  At  the  heads  of 
the  ravines  I  remarked,  occasionally,  ihickcUs  o( salix  loni^ifolin,  the  most 
connnon  willow  of  the  country.  We  tiavelled  nineteen  miles,  and  pitched 
our  tents  at  evening  on  the  head  waters  of  a  small  creek,  now  nearly  dry, 

'  but  having  in  its  bed  several  fine  springs.  The  barouKiter  indicated  a 
considerable  rise  in  the  country — here  about  fourteen  hundrfxl  fe(!t  above 
the  sea — and  the  increased  elevation  appeared  already  to  have  some  slight 
influence  upon  the  vegetation.  The  night  was  coliJ,  with  a  heavy  tlew; 
the  thermometer  at  10  p.  m.  standing  at  4G'',  barometer  2S.4y.'>.  Our 
position  was  in  longitude  !i(i^  14'  49",  and  latitude  39''  30'  40". 

I  The  morning  of  the  20tli  was  fine,  with  a  southerly  breeze  and  a  bright 
sky  ;  and  at  7  o'clock  we  were  on  the  march.  The  country  to-day  was 
rather  more  broken,  rising  still,  and  covered  every  wli(;re  with  fragments 

'  of  siliceous  limestone,  particularly  on  the  summits,  when.'  they  were  small, 
and  thickly  strewed  as  pebbles  on  the  siiore  of  the  sea.  in  these  exposed 
situations  grew  but  few  plants;  though,  whenever  the  soil  was  good  and 
protected  from  the  winds,  in  the  creek  bottoms  and  ravines,  and  on  the 
slopes,  they  flourished  abundantly;  among  them  the  umnrpht,  ^\!\\\  re- 
taining its  characteristic  place.  \Ve  crossed,  at  10  a.  m.,  the  Big  Vermillion, 
wiiich  has  a  rich  bottom  of  about  one  mile  in  breadth,  one-third  of  which 
is  occupied  by  timber.  Making  our  usual  halt  at  noon,  after  a  day's 
march  of  twenty-four  miles,  wo  reached  the  Hig  Blue,  and  eiicami)Ld  on 
the  uplands  of  the  western  side,  near  a  small  creek,  where  was  a  fine 
large  spring  of  very  cold  water.  This  is  a  clear  and  handsome  stream, 
about  one  lunidred  and  twenty  feet  wide,  running,  with  a  rapid  current, 
through  a  well-timbered  valley.  To-day  antelope  were  seen  running 
over  the  hills,  and  at  evening  Carson  brought  us  a  fine  deer.     Longitude 

,    of  the  camp  96°  32'  35",  latitude  ;.J9°  45'  OS".     Thermometer  at  sunset 

5  75°.  A  pleasant  southerly  breeze  and  fine  morning  had  given  place  to  a 
gale,  witii  indications  of  l>ad  v,  eather;  when,  after  a  march  of  len  miles. 


,  ll^ 


i.= 


1  i 


'I 


[ill  \ 


14 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE, 


[1849. 


wo  Imltod  lo  noon  on  a  small  nronk,  wlionj  tli(!  wator  stood  in  deep  pools. 
Ill  tlio  liaiik  of  the  cr<!(!k  liinostoiu!  luade  its  appcuraiico  in  a  stratum  about 
one  toot  tliidc.  In  tlu^  afternoon,  the  pe(){)lr  sf!«Mned  to  sufl'er  for  want  of 
wator.  The  road  led  alona;  a  his^h  dry  ridge;  dark  Mnes  of  timber  indicated 
the  lieads  of  streams  in  the  plains  helow ;  l)nt  there  was  no  water  near, 
and  the  day  was  very  oppr(!ssive,  with  a  hot  wind,  and  the  th(!rniometer 
at  fK/'.  Along  our  route  the  (inKtrpha  has  hecn  m  very  abundant  but  va- 
riable bloom — in  some  places  bending  beneath  the  weight  of  purple  cUis- 
ters ;  in  others  without  a  flowcir.  It  seems  to  love  best  the  sunny  slopes, 
with  a  dark  soil  and  southern  exposure.  Every  where  the  rose  is  met 
with,  and  reminds  us  of  cultivated  gardens  and  civilization.  It  is  scat- 
t(!re(l  over  the  prairies  in  small  bouquets,  and,  when  glittering  in  the  dews 
and  waving  in  the  pleasant  breeze  of  the  early  morning,  is  the  most  beau- 
tiful of  the  prairie  flowers.  The  ^/r/e^/i/.viV/,  absintlie,  or  prairie  sage,  as 
it  is  variously  called,  is  increasing  in  size,  and  glitters  like  silver,  as  the 
southern  breeze  turns  up  its  leaves  to  the  sun.  All  these  plains  have 
their  insect  inhabitants,  variously  colored;  taking  generally  the  hue  of  the 
flower  on  which  they  live.  The  arleniisia  has  its  small  lly  accompany- 
ing it  through  every  change  of  elevation  and  latitude;  and  wherever  I 
liave  seen  ihe  a\c/i'pi(/.s  luher<>s(i,\  have  always  remarked,  too,  on  the 
flower  a  large  butterfly,  so  nearly  resembling  it  in  color  as  to  be  distin- 
guishable at  a  little  distance  only  by  the  motio  of  its  wings.  Travelling 
on  the  fresh  traces  of  the  Oregon  emigrants  relieves  a  little  the  loneliness 
of  the  road ;  and  to-night,  after  a  march  of  twenty-two  miles,  we  halted 
on  a  small  creek,  which  had  been  one  of  their  encampments.  As  we  ad- 
vance westward,  the  soil  appears  to  be  getting  more  sandy,  and  the  sur- 
face rock,  an  erratic  deposite  of  sand  and  gravel,  rests  here  on  a  bed  of 
coarse  yellow  and  gray  and  very  friable  sandstone.  Evening  closed  over 
with  rain  and  its  usual  atttiudanf,  hordes  of  rnusiuitoes,  with  which  we 
were  annoyed  for  the  lirst  time. 

June  22. — We  enjoyed  at  breakfast  this  morning  a  luxury,  very  unusual 
in  this  country,  in  a  cup  of  excellent  cofTee,  with  cream  from  our  cow. 
Hcing  milked  at  night,  cream  was  thus  had  in  the  morning.  Our  mid-day 
halt  was  at  VVyeth's  creeic,  in  the  bed  of  which  were  numerous  boidders 
of  dark  ferruginous  sandstone,  mingled  with  others  of  the  red  sandstone, 
already  mentioned.  Mere  a  pack  of  cards,  lying  loose  on  the  grass,  mark- 
ed an  encampment  of  our  Oregon  emigrants ;  and  it  was  at  tlie  close  of 
the  day  when  we  made  our  bivouac  in  the  midst  of  some  well-timbered 
ravines  near  the  Little  lilue,  twenty-four  miles  from  our  camp  of  the  pre- 
ceding night.  Crossing  the  next  morning  a  luunber  of  handsome  creeks, 
with  clear  water  and  sandy  beds,  we  reached,  at  10  a.  m.,  a  very  beautiful 
wooded  stream,  about  thirty-five  feet  wide,  called  Sandy  creek,  and  some- 
times, as  the  Ottoes  frequently  winter  there,  the  Ottoe  fork.  The  coi  .  y 
has  became  very  sandy,  and  the  plants  less  varied  and  abundant,  with  the 
exception  of  the  amnrphd,  which  rivals  the  grass  in  quantity,  though  not 
so  forward  as  it  has  been  found  to  the  eastward. 

At  the  liig  Trees,  where  we  had  intended  to  noon,  no  water  was  to  be 
found.  The  bed  of  the  little  creek  was  perfectly  dry,  and,  on  the  adjacent 
sandy  bottom, c«c72,  for  the  first  time,  made  their  appearance.  We  made 
here  a  short  delay  in  search  of  water;  and,  after  a  hard  day's  march  of 
twenty-eight  miles,  encamped,  at  5  o'clock,  on  the  Little  Blue,  where 
our  arrival  made  a  scene  of  the  Arabian  desert.     As  fast  as  they  arrived, 


[184«. 

n  deep  pools, 
iratiim  about 
r  for  want  of 
ber  indicated 
1  water  near, 
tli(!rn)ometer 
i(i;iiit  but  va- 

purple  clus- 
sunny  slopes, 
!  rose  is  met 
.  It  is  scat- 
j  in  the  dews 
e  nK)st  beau- 
\irie  s;igo,  as 
.silver,  as  the 
J  plants  liave 
le  hue  of  the 

accompany- 
J  wherever  I 
1,  too,  on  the 

to  be  distin- 

Travelling 

he  lonehness 

as,  we  halted 

As  we  ad- 

and  the  sur- 

on  a  bed  of 
f  closed  over 
h  wiiich  we 

/ery  unusual 

m  our  cow. 

Our  mid-day 

us  boulders 

d  sandstone, 

grass,  mark- 

tlie  close  of 

ell-timbered 

of  the  pre- 

on)e  creeks, 

ry  beautiful 

,  and  some- 

'he  coi  .     y 

nt,  with  the 

though  not 

r  was  to  be 
he  adjacent 
We  made 
's  march  of 
lue,  where 
ley  arrived, 


M"' 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NAUKATIVn. 


15 


linen  and  horses  rushed  into  the  stream,  where  they  bathed  and  (hank  to- 
rether  in  common  enjoyment.  We  were  now  in  ihi;  range  of  the  Paw- 
[nees,  who  were  accustomed  to  infest  this  part  of  the  connlry,  .stealing 
lorses  from  companies  on  iheir  way  to  the  mouniahis,  and,  when  in  sulli- 
lijient  force,  o|)enly  attackina:  and  pinndtjring  them,  and  subjecting  theiu 
|to  various  kinds  of  insult.  For  the  first  tiuK!,  therefore,  guard  was  mount- 
5d  to-i.iglit.  Our  route  the  next  morning  lay  U])  the  valley,  which,  bur- 
lered  by  hills  with  graceful  slopes,  looked  nnconmioiily  green  and  b(!au- 
liful.  The  stream  was  about  filty  feet  wide,  and  three  or  four  d'lej), 
[fringed  by  cotton  wood  and  willow,  with  frequent  groves  of  oak  t(ni;intt'd 
Ibv  Hocks  of  turkeys,  (lame  here,  too,  m.ide  its  appearance  in  gre.tti;r 
i)lentv.  l^li<  were  frequently  seen  on  the  hills,  and  now  and  then  an  an- 
telope bounded  across  our  path,  or  a  deer  brok(!  from  the  groves.  The 
road  in  the  afternoon  was  over  the  upper  prairies,  several  miles  from  the 
river,  and  we  encamped  at  sunset  on  one  of  its  small  tributaries,  wh(;re 
an  abundance  of  prt^le  {e<juificlum)  all\)rded  fine  forage  to  our  tired  ani- 
mals. We  had  travelled  thirty-one  miles.  A  heavy  bank  of  black  clouds 
ill  the  west  came  on  us  in  a  storm  between  nine  and  ten,  prcjceded  by  a 
violent  wind.  The  rain  fell  in  such  torreius  that  it  was  ditlicult  to  breathe 
facing  the  wind,  the  lliunder  rolled  incessantly,  and  the  whole  sky  was 
tremulous  with  lightning;  now  and  then  illuminated  by  a  blinding  tlasli, 
.'succeeded  by  pitchy  darkness.  Carson  had  tlie  watch  from  ten  to  mid- 
night, and  to  him  had  been  assigned  our  young  cot/ip(ti(non\  de  roi/iif^c, 
Messrs.  Brant  and  R.  Benton.  'I'his  was  their  liisl  night  on  guard,  and 
such  an  introduction  did  not  augur  very  auspiciously  of  the  pleasures  of 
the  expedition.  Many  things  conspired  to  render  their  situation  uncom- 
fortable ;  stories  of  desperate  and  blooiiy  Indian  fights  were  rife  in  the 
camp;  onr  position  was  badly  chosen, surrounded  on  all  sides  by  timbered 
hollows,  and  occupying  an  area  of  several  hundred  feet,  so  that  necessa- 
rily the  guards  were  far  apart ;  and  now  and  then  I  could  hear  liandoli»h, 
as  if  relieved  by  the  sound  of  a  voice  in  the  darkness,  calling  out  to  the 
sergeant  of  the  guard,  to  direct  his  atteniion  to  some  imaginary  alarm  ; 
but  they  stood  it  out,  and  took  their  turn  rc:,Milarly  afterward. 

The  next  moming  we  had  a  specimen  of  the  false  alarms  to  which  all 
parties  in  these  wild  regions  are  subject.  Prorecding  up  the  valley,  ob- 
jects were  seen  on  the  opposite  hills,  which  disa))peared  before  a  glass 
cotild  be  brought  to  bear  upon  them.  A  man,  who  was  a  short  distance 
in  the  rear,  came  spurring  up  in  great  haste,  shouting  Indians!  Indians! 
He  had  been  near  enough  to  see  and  count  tlunn,  aeconJiiig  to  his  report, 
and  had  made  out  twenty-seven.  I  immediately  halted ;  arms  werti  ex- 
amined and  put  in  order;  the  usual  preparations  made;  and  Kit  ('arson, 
springing  upon  one  of  the  jiunting  horses,  crossed  the  river,  and  galloped 
ort' into  the  opposite  prairies,  to  obtain  some  certain  intelligence  of  their 
movements. 

Mounted  on  a  fine  horse,  without  a  .saddle,  and  scouring  bareheaded 
over  the  prairies.  Kit  was  one  of  the  finest  pictures  of  a  horseman  I  have 
ever  seen.  A  short  time  enabled  him  to  discover  that  the  Indian  war 
party  of  twenty-seven  consisted  of  six  elk,  who  had  been  gazing  curiously 
at  our  caravan  as  it  passed  by,  and  were  now  scampering  off  at  full  speed. 
This  was  our  first  alarm,  and  its  excitement  broke  agreeably  on  the  mo- 
notony of  the  day.  At  our  noon  halt,  the  men  were  exercised  at  a  target; 
and  in  the  evening  we  pitched  our  tents  at  a  Pawnee  encampment  of  last 


I 


]'ii 


I  if 


lli 


(>'AI»T.  FHKMOM".-.  NAKK A  TIVE. 


.Inly.     Tlioy  liail    app.iroiilly  killed    hiillUlo    here,  ns 
IvillL'  ahoiil,  ;iiicl  (he  Iraiiies  wlier(^  the  iliijes  had    lieen  s 

w 


[1848. 

iiiniiy  bones  ^ 
were 
sometimes 


.slaiidiim.  'I'lu!  road  ol  the  day  had  k(!|>l  llie  valley, 
rich  and  well  liinhereil,  thmii.'h  flio  country  is  ueinTally  sandy.  Mingled 
with  llie  tisii.il  plants,  a  lliisil(!  'curJiiiis  /t'Kn'n^rap/ius)  had  I'or  tlio  last 
day  or  two  made  its  appearance; ;  and  alontrthe  river  hntloni,  fr(if/csc(tniia 
(r//*i,'-//;/6v/)  and  milk  plan!  {(isrlt'pids  sf/riaca'')  in  considi;ral)l(:  <jnaiitilies. 

Our  niareji  to-day  had  In  tMi  twenty-one;  miles,  and  tlu;  asironouiical  ob« 
servalimis  ;;av(i  us  a  chronoinetric  loniiitndi;  ol'  '.)K' '^\i'  ly",  and  latitiido 
'10'^  'J(i'  fiO".  Wo  W(;r(!  movui'^'  forward  at  seven  in  the  morninu;,  and  in 
ahout  five  miles  reacheil  a  fork  of  the  Hliie,  where  tlm  road  leaves  that 
river,  and  crosses  over  to  the  I^latte.  No  water  was  to  \w  found  oti  thi; 
ilividini^  ridi^e,  and  tlu;  casks  were  fdled,  and  th(!  ainmals  here!  allowed  a 
short  repose.  'Ijie  road  led  across  a  hii^ii  and  lt;vel  prairie  rid^e,  where 
\V(M'o  hut  h^w  plants,  and  those  principally  l\\\s[\c  {cttrdiiHs  /cticoi,n(t/i/iits,) 
and  a  kind  of  dwarf  arteiuisia.  7Nnlolo|)o  wero  seem  friupiently  durim,' 
(he  mornin'.',  wl;i(;li  was  very  stormy.  Sepialls  of  ram,  willi  thunder  and 
liuihlnim::,  were  around  us  in  every  direction:  and  while;  we  w(mo  euved- 
oped  in  one  of  them,  a  flash,  which  seemiKJ  to  scorch  otu'  liyes  as  it 
jiassed,  struck  in  iIk;  prairie  within  a  f(!W  hundred  fool,  sending  up  a 
coluum  of  dus«, 

(JrossiuL'  on  the  way  several  I'a'vneo  roails  to  liie  Arkansas,  wo  reach- 
ed, in  ahoMi  tweiily-ono  miles  from  our  hail  on  the  lUne,  what  is  called 
*' oast  of  the  Nehraska,  or  Platte  river.     This  had  siiomcid   in  the  dis- 


tli(!  coast  ol  the  iNeoraska,  or  Plalto  river.  1  his  had  siiomcid  in  the  dis- 
taiice  a  range;  of  high  aiiel  hrokeai  hills  ;  hut  on  a  iwareir  appre)ach  were; 
found  to  he!  elevations  of  forty  to  sixty  fcesi,  into  which  the  winel  hael 
worked  the  sand.     'J'li(;y  were;  covered  with  the  usual   fine  grasses  of  the; 


*  ♦'  This  plant  is  very  oeloriforons.  nnel  in  Canaela  chi-rms  the  tnivpller,  especially  when  passim^ 
throu£;h  woods  in  the  evening.  The  rnnch  there  cat  ihc  tender  shoots  in  the  spring,  as  we  do 
asparas;us.  The  natives  make  a  sugar  of  the  llmvers,  gu'hering  Iheni  in  the  morning  when  they  arc 
covered  witli  dew,  and  collect  the  cotton  from  the  pods  t  j  fill  their  beds.  On  account  of  the  silki- 
noss  of  this  cotton,  Parkinson  calls  the  plant  Virginian  s'  Ik." — L(tui/o7i\s  Enci/clopcdiu  of  I'lunls. 

The  Sioux  Indians  of  '.he  tipper  Platte  eat  the  young  pods  of  this  plant,  lioiling  them  with  tiie 
meat  of  tl)f>  hullalo. 


oniiiiu:,  •'Hid  111 

:i(l   IcMVcs   tli:it 

r<iilii(l    oil    ihi; 

(Jll!    alll)\VL'(|    il 

i'  Y\dm',  wlioro 

'cilCOiC>(//)/lHS,) 

|iU!i)tly  diiriii:^' 
il  tliuiidcr  and 
'(!  wr.rc.  oiivcl- 
)ur  (!ycs  as  it 
seiidiiig   up  u 

^as,  wc  roacli- 

wliat  is  callud 

(ni  ill  till!  dis- 

pproacli  \voi(! 

till!   wind   had 

j.M'asso.s  of  tli(! 

adtli  of  about 

luvc  produced 

;;11  llio  [)laii(s 

Aiiioii'^'  \\\v.i\\ 

luid   iiixiiriaiii 

o  mi  I  OS  across 

!  oC  tlu!  riv(;r, 

lay  oxtciidcd 

ujoiiili  of  iin! 

Iiundrcd  and 

iifry  wo  had 

same  erratic 

1 1 10  prairies 

10  occasional 

of  the  Piatto 

ic  astrcjiioiiii- 

19",  latitude 


illy  when  passinur 
spring,  as  wc  do 
ng  when  they  arc 
■oiint  of  tlio  silki- 
)(<liaof  I'luiits. 
ig  them  with  the 


|*||g^1  CAl'T.  FUEMONTM  NAUUATIVE.  17 

^UM  27. — The  animals  worn  sonimvliaf  fatii^ued  by  tlioir  march  of  yes- 
[taHay;  a»if'»  ofl«r  a  short  journey  of  i-ii^dilccn  milns  aloiiaf  tlio  ivcr  hotloni, 
|i  encnnipf  (I  near  the  ln-ad  of  (Iraiid  island,  in  limy;itiidc,  hy  ohscrvation, 
J%<'05'  'J  I",  laiitnd(!  -lO"  M!>'  Mi".  Tlic  soil  Ihm-"'  was  li^dil  hnt  rich,  though 
[in  some  placi.'s  rather  sandy;  and,  with  the  exei'piion  of  a  scattered  fringe* 
[«ong  the  haul;,  the  tindier,  eonsistini,'  priiiei[)ally  of  poplar,  (popu/its  via- 
fii/ifrra,)  elm,  and  hackbcrry,  {celtis  cr(i.s\iji)li(i,)  i.s  confmcd  almost  en- 
fflrely  to  the  islands. 

Jioie  2H — We  halted  to  noon  at  an  open  reach  of  the  river,  which  oc- 
cupies rather  more  than  a  fourth  of  iIk;  valley,  here  only  al)out  four  miles 
broiid.  The  camp  had  been  disposed  with  the  usual  precaution,  the 
horses  ^Mazioi,'  at  a  litil''  distance,  attended  hy  tla;  LMiard,  and  wr;  were  all 
sitting  (pnetly  at  our  dinner  on  the  grass,  wh<,'n  suddenly  W(!  heard  the 
startling  cry  *Uiu  mondv  !^^  In  nn  instant,  every  man's  weapon  was  in 
his  hand,  the  horses  wen;  driven  in,  hobbled  and  picketed,  and  horsemfn 
were  galloping  at  full  sp(!fd  in  the  direction  of  tlie  new  comers,  screaming 
and  ycdling  with  the  wildest  excitement.  "  flet  ready,  my  lads!"  said 
tile  Icadt^r  of  the  api)roaching  party  to  his  men,  when  our  wild-looking 
horstiinen  were  discovered  bearingdown  upon  them  ;  ''^  nous  allons  (ittraper 
ties  coups  (Iv  l.d^uetli'.''^  They  proved  to  be  a  small  party  of  fourteen, 
under  tlu;  chargt;  of  a  n,..n  named  John  Lee,  and,  with  their  baggage  Juid 
provisions  strapped  to  their  backs,  were  inaKing  their  way  on  foot  to  th»' 
frontier.  A  brief  a(M:()Uiit  of  their  fortun(\s  will  give  some  idea  of  naviga- 
tion in  the  Ncbra.vka.  Sixty  days  since,  they  had  left  the  mouth  of  Lar- 
amie's fork,  some  three  hundred  mihs  above,  in  barges  laden  with  the 
furs  of  the  American  Fur  Company.  They  start(!d  with  the  annual  flood, 
and,  drawing  but  nine  inches  water,  hoped  to  make  a  speedy  and  pros- 
perous voyage  to  St.  Louis  ;  but,  after  a  lapse  of  forty  days,  found  thenn- 
selves  only  one  hundred  iind  thirty  miles  from  their  point  of  departure. 
They  came  down  rapidly  as  far  as  Scott's  bliiffs,  where  their  difillculties 
began.  SoiiKMinurs  they  camo  upon  places  where  the  water  was  spread 
over  a  great  extent,  and  here  they  toiled  from  morning  until  night,  en- 
deavoring to  drag  their  boat  through  the  sands,  making  only  two  or  three 
miles  ill  as  many  days.  Sometimes  they  would  enter  an  arm  of  the  river, 
where  there  ap|)e:ired  a  fine  channel,  and,  after  descending  prosperously 
for  eight  or  ten  miles,  would  come  suddenly  u|)on  dry  sands,  and  be  com- 
pelled to  return,  dragging  their  boat  for  days  against  the  rapid  current ; 
and  at  others,  they  came  upon  places  where  the  water  lay  in  holes,  and, 
getting  out  to  float  off  their  I'oat,  woiUd  fiill  into  water  up  to  their  necks, 
and  the  next  moment  tumble  over  against  a  sandbar.  Discouraged,  at 
length,  and  fi  ding  the  Platte  growing  every  day  more  shallow,  they  dis- 
charged the  principal  part  of  their  cargoes  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles 
below  Fort  Lnramie,  which  they  secured  as  well  as  possible,  and,  leaving 
a  few  men  to  guard  them,  attempted  to  continue  their  voyage,  laden  with 
some  light  furs  and  their  personal  baggage.  After  fifteen  or  twenty  days 
more  sirngglmg  in  the  sands,  during  winch  they  made  but  one  hundred 
and  forty  miles,  th-y  sunk  their  barges,  made  a  cache  of  their  remaining 
furs  and  pro|)eriy,in  trees  on  tlie  bank,  and,  j)acking  on  his  back  what 
each  man  could  carry,  had  commenced,  the  day  before  we  encountered 
them,  their  journey  on  foot  to  St.  Louis. 

We  laughed  then  at  their  forlorn  and  vagabond  appearance,  and,  in  our 
turn,  a  month  or  two  afterwards,  furnished  the  same  occasion  for  merri- 


:i 


/■Y, 


ill' ' 


; 


CiV 


i-'i 


■'<.' 


IS 


(  \vv  I  Kr.MoNTs  \  \i.M;\rivi; 


ac- 
wu 


10 

S(5 


[1849. 

tiHMil  l»>  otlicrs.  I'vt'ii  «li<'ir  sioik  of  idltiutro,  ilint  sinr  f/un  nnn  of  t\%*off- 
iii^inr,  wiilioiii  wliicli  ilic  iiii-lil  (in'  in  glooinv,  wms  niliiply  fxImUMled. 
Ilout  V(  r,  we  .sIkmIciiiiI  ilinr  hi'iiH'Wiinl  jniiiiiry  hy  ;i  Miiiill  sii|'|i|y  jrom 
<tiir  own  |triiviMtiii.  Tlicv  yiivc  ii-.  (In'  wch  omc  iiilrlliycncr  iIliI  iIip  bnf- 
lalo  Wt'ir  iilMliitl.'iliI  soiiii'  lui)  tU\\s'  lilitK'li  III  :i(lv.'ill)'<>,  mikI  imiilr  una 
ItrcsiMil  ol'simic  clidiff  |»i«'i'«vs,  wliwli  wi'n-  a  very  acn'|iiali'|c  cliani.'c  iVoin 
otir  sail  pork.  In  tin*  int<-ii-liaiii'<>  oi'  iirw.s,  and  tlic  tciiowal  nl  oM 
(|naililaii*'('s|ii|)s,  w  i<  luiind  u  li<>i)'U  itlial  lo  (ill  a  lniNy  Imin  ;  linn 
luoinilt'il  tiiir  hni'M's.  and  l,i('\'  slinnldcicd  iIumt  packs,  and  we  shook  hands 
and  parted.  .Vnionu  ihcin,  I  had  loniid  an  old  coinpanion  on  iho  norlhcrti 
pranii'.  a  liard<-ii(*d  and  hardly  m'iv.'i!  xcicraii  oT  ih<>  Mioiiniain^  who  had 
lu't'il  as  nilli'h  hat'kfd  and  Mailed  as  ;iii  old  nnHtshtt'lif  y)\  INapojcoii's  "olil 
ijiiard.*'  IJr  ilounshctl  inilio  soliiKpKi  oT  La  Tiilipc,  and  his  iral  nan 
I  uovrr  knew.  I''iiulnii;  thai  lif  was  i-oini;  lo  iho  Slalrs  only  \wv\\\\ 
his  ronipaiiy  was  hound  in  llial  diroilion,  and  that  lie  was  ralliiT  inon; 
willint;  lo  K'linii  willi  iin',  I  look  liiin  au;ain  inio  my  mtviim!.  W't;  Irav- 
rllrd  liustlay  hnl  sovcMilcrn  nnkis. 

At  «)ur  i^vt'iiing  canii",  ahonl  siinsri,  ihioc  (imncs  wnn  discovcrod  ap- 
pvi>ai'liin!4.  which  onr  glasses  made  oiil  lo  he  Indians.  'I'hcy  proved  \o 
i)c  t'lieyenne.s — two  men,  and  a  i>oy  of  ihirlcen.  Ahonl  a  inonlli  since, 
thoy  had  loH  their  people  on  the  soiilli  loik  ol  IJie  river,  some  three  hiiii- 
drod  miles  to  the  wcsi\\;ii(l.  and  a  p.iiiy  o|  only  lour  in  nmnhrr  had  heeii 
tt>  the  I'awnee  villaues  on  a  hoi^e-slcalin^'  excoisioii.  I'loin  which  |liey 
were  lotnrnini;  niisiiccesslul.  'I'licy  wen;  miscrahly  moiinlcd  on  wild 
horses  iVom  ihe  .\rkansas  plains,  ami  had  no  other  weapons  than  hows 
ami  loiii;  sjiears;  and  li.id  iliey  heeii  discovered  hy  the  I'awiiees,  eoiikl 
not,  liy  any  |M»ssil)ility,  iiave  escaped.  They  were;  mortified  hy  their  ill 
success,  ami  said  the  I'awnees  were  coward-,  who  shin  up  their  li()rs(vs  in 
their  lodges  at  ni^iil.  I  invited  tlinn  lo  sii|»per  with  me,  and  HindoipU 
and  the  young  ('heyeimc,  wlio  had  hccn  (-yiMii^;  each  other  suspiciously 
ami  curiiuisjy.  socni  iiecaine  intiniatc  Iriends.  After  supper,  we  sal  down 
on  the  grass,  and  I  placed  a  sheet  ol  paper  hetween  ns,  on  which  lla^y 
traced  rudely,  hnl  wuli  a  certaiii  degree  ol'iclaiive  truth, the  walercinirsijs 
of  the  country  which  lay  heiwci-ii  us  and  their  villages,  and  (d'  which  I 
desired  to  have  some  iulorniaiinn.  Tlioir  companions,  they  told  tis,  had 
lakou  a  ncan'r  route  over  the  hills;  hui,  tlay  had  n'oun. cd  one  of  tlie  sum- 
nuts  to  si)y  oiU  the  I'ouniry.  whence  they  luul  caught  a  gliini)S(r  of  onr  party, 
and,  coulideut  of  good  tr(>atiiieut  at  the  jiands  of  the  whiles,  hastened  to 
join  company.     Latitude  of  the  camj)  -10'  39'  ')!". 

We  made  the  next  morning  sixteen  miles.  I  remarked  that  tiie  ground 
was  covered  in  many  places  wul<  an  elllorescenee  of  salt,  and  the  jdants 
were  not  numerous.  In  tln>  i)o(t()ms  was  freiiuenlly  s(,'(!n  Irmlcscdulia, 
and  on  the  dry  lenchcs  were  c^/yvZ/r;/*,  tv/c/r/.y,  and  amorplni.  A  high  wind 
during  the  morning  had  increased  lo  a  violent  gale  Irom  the  northwest, 
which  made  our  afternoon  ride  cold  and  unpleasant.  We  had  the  wel- 
come siglit  of  two  butlaloes  on  one  of  the  large  islands,  and  encamped  at  a 
clump  of  timber  about  seven  miles  from  our  noon  ljalt,after  a  day's  march 
of  twenty-two  miles. 

The  air  was  keen  the  next  morning  at  sunrise,  the  thermometer  stand- 
ing at  44^  and  it  was  sulliciently  cold  to  make  overcoats  very  comfortable. 
A  few  miles  brought  us  into  the  midst  of  the  bud'alo,  swarming  in  irn- 
mcnse  lunubers  over  the  plains,  where  they  had  left  scarcely  a  blade  of 


wn  of  a  wy- 
ly  f'xImUHtcd. 
I  supply  from 
'  lli;il  lllii  l)llf- 
III    liliilr    IIS  a 

(-li.-iii!.',(*  lioin 

Ml!  Ill  oiil  IIC- 
in  ;  (lirli  wn 
'  sltiMfJv  IkiihIs 

I    lint    IIDlllll'I'll 

mis,  will)  Ii/kI 
piili'oii's  "  old 
lis  ri';il  tiaiiM) 
only  biKiiiiis); 
^4  lalJHT  iiioro 
w.     Wo  iiav- 

ll.scovoroij  ap.. 
Iicy  piovril  lo 

tiioiilii  siti(;(\ 
no  llnoo  liiin- 
iImt  li.ni  Itooii 
I  wliii'Ii  jtioy 
iili-d  (III  wild 
IS  than  hows 
iwiii'o.s,  could 
hy  ilicir  ill 

it'ir  liorsos  in 

1(1     l{:Mldi)lph 

siispicioiisly 
wo  s;il  down 

which  ihcy 
watoi'C(Miist;s 

of  which   I 

lold   IIS,  had 

'  oTlIiu  siiiii- 

oi'oiir  parly, 

,  hasluiu'd  lo 

U  llic  i2;roiiiid 
id  tlio  i-iaiils 
r(i(lcsc(nitia<f 

A  iiii-'h  wind 
10  iiorlliwesl, 

lad  llic  wol- 
icaniped  at  a 

day's  uiaich 

iicter  stand- 
comfortable, 
niing  in  ira- 
y  a  blade  of 


10^01  <\I'IV    I  Ijr.MON  I'M  NAIMJMIVi;  |f| 

yrBMi  ntniiditlf^.     Mr.  I'lni'-,  who  was  skclchin!/  af  a  lililc  di.lanro  in  llin 
iWar,  had  al  first   iiolcd   thoiii  as  lai;,'(>  «rov«iN  ol   IiiiiImi.     In  Ihc  siyhl  of 
[iWch  u    mass  of  lilo,   ilic  Iravollor  foids  u  Ntrtuii;)-  <'moiioii  of  frund'-iir. 
[W«   had   hriird  from  a  dislanco    a   (hill   and   conlin-d    miirmnrmL',  and, 
twhiMi  wo  camo  in   viow  of  lln-ir  darU   masses,  Micro   wa*;  not   on  •  amomi; 
[uf  who  did  liol  led   his  laait    heal   ipiickcr.      It  wa  i  thr  early  pait  (d   Ihc 
ay,  when  il'c  herds  aro  feeding;  Jind  i-very  where  ihey    wi-re  m  motion. 
[Here  and   there  a   liniv'  old   Imll   was  rolhiii;   in   the  L'rass,  and  clouds  of 
'diisi  rose  in  the  air  Irom   vaiioiis  parls  <d   toe   hand.,  i-aeh  the  .scene  of 
';(»m<!  ohsimate   li^'lil.      Indians  and   Inillalo  make  the   p.riry  and   life  of 
the  |>rairic,  and  onrcamp  was  In!!  of  llnir  exhilaration.      In  place  oi'  tho 
iplicl  mmioloi.y  of  the  maii'li,  lelievcil    onlv  hv  th''   er  icKiii"   <d    tin;  whip, 
and  all  "  r//vn/c/'   ihnir  !   viijiin'   dr  i;(/rrr  f^'   sIkoiIs  and   son:")   rosoimded 
Irom  every  p-'irt  ol   the  hue,  and  oiir  eveiiiiiL';  eamp  was  alway.  the  com- 
iiieiicemiait  of  a   feast,  which   terminated  only    with  oiii  departure  uu  the 
lollowiiif,'  morning.     ,M  any  iime  (»f  the  tii^ht  nii'.dii  he   ii'ii  pmces  rd  llio 
most  <l(||cate  and  choice'  I  nn  at,  lo.asliii'^'  en  (i/i/i(ii'i/\,  on    ticks  ;iroiind  the 
lire,  and  the  en.-iid  were  never  wilhoiit  company.     With  ple.isant  weather 
and  no  enemy  to  fear,  an  ahiindaiic(>  of  the  most  excellent  meat,  and   no 
H!arcity  of  bread  or  t(d»acco,  they  were  enjoviii'.'  the  oai.  ot'.i  voyai^eiir'.s 
.Jile,     Threi!  cows  were  kilieil  li»  day.     Kit  (lar.sini   had  shot  e-ie,  aiuj  w.'i'i 
eontimiiiiL,'  the  chase  in   ih''  midst   of  another  herd,  wli'ii   Ins  horsr;  h^lj 
lieadloiii;,  hill  spraii;,'  up  and  joiin.d  the  llyini^  hand,  'riioii'.di  consiflerahly 
liiirt,  he  had  (he  t,'ood  lorlniie  to  break  no  h(»nis  ;  and  Maxwell,  who  was 
mounted  on  a  licet  biintcr,  captured  the  r'.inaway  after  a  h;iril  chase.     Iff 
was  on  the  point,  of  shootiii'.,'  him,  lo  av()id  the  loss  of  his  hridle,  (a  hand- 
somely nioiintcd  Sp  iiiish  one,)  when  be   found   that  his  horsi!  wa.s  able  lo 
come  lip  with  him.     Animal;  an;  fre(pH;ntly  lost  i>i  this   way;  and   it  is 
necessary  to  keep  (lose  waicb  over  them,  in  the  vicinily  f>f  the  boil'ido,  in 
die  mid.st  of  which   they  .scour  oil'  lo  the  plains,  and  are  rarely  retaken. 
One  ol'  onr  mules  took  a  sudden   freak  into  his  head,  and  joined  a  neigh- 
boring band  to-day.     As  we  were  not  in  a  condition  to  lo.->(!  hor.so.s,  I  .sent 
several  iikmi  in  pursuit,  and  remained  in  (.'amp,  in  the  hope  of  recovoriri^ 
liim;  but  lost  ilie  atternrion  to  no  [mr[)ose,  as  we  did  not  see  him  aL'aiii. 
Astroiiomicfd  oh.servatioiis  jilaccd   U.s  in  longitude    100''  05'    17",  latitude 
'  10'^4f»'  55". 

'/uh/  1. — AIniii,'  our  road  to-day  the  prairie  bottom  wa.s  more  elevated 
and  dry,  and  the  hills  whicji  border  the  ricfbt  side  f)f  the  river  bif^ber,  and 
more  broken  aiuJ  pictiiicsipK!  in  iIk;  outline,  'f'lie  coimliy,  too,  wa.s  bet- 
ter timbered.  As  we  were  riding  (piietly  along  tin;  bank,  a  grand  herd  of 
luidalo,  some  seven  or  eight  hundred  in  numbr;r,  came  erowding  up  from 
the  river,  where  they  had  iKV'ti  to  drink,  and  commenced  crossing  the 
jdain  slowly,  eating  as  they  went.  'I'iie  wind  was  favorable  ;  the  coolnes.s 
of  the  morning  invited  to  (;xercise;  the  ground  was  ajiparently  good,  and 
the  distance  across  the  prairie  (two  or  three  miles)  gave  us  a  fine  opportu- 
nity to  charge  them  before  they  could  get  among  the  river  hills.  It  wa.s 
too  fine  a  prospect  for  a  chase  to  be  lost ;  and,  halting  for  a  few  moments, 
the  hunters  were  bronulit  uj)  and  saddled,  and  Kit  Car.son,  Maxwell,  and 
i,  started  together.  They  were  now  somewhat  less  than  half  a  mile  dis- 
tant, and  we  rode  easily  along  until  within  about  three  hundred  yards, 
when  a  sudden  agitation,  a  wavering  in  the  band,  and  a  galloping  to  and 
fro  of  some  wiiich  were  scattered  along  the  skirts,  gave  us  the  intimation 


::J 


i\- 


y :: 

11.   i 

»■'■'■ 

"I'  ;, 


Vi 


I 


•I 


80 


(APT.  FHKMONTH  .NAKHN  TIVK 


[184t. 


that  \vv  weru  cliscoviTcd,  Wo  shirlril  toi^Mtl.rr  at  a  linnd  gallop,  riding 
■steadily  al)i'<uist  ol  imcIi  ndini,  aixl  Ikmi!  tli<.  iiilt'titsi  ol  tlu>  cliasit  huiMnie 
Nil  chgr«)NSilii!ly  llilciisc,  lli;il  wv.  wen;  scnsililf  in  nollilll:,'  clsr.  W«!  WOfO 
now  closiim  U|)()ii  ilifwi  rapidly,  and  (lu;  rroiil  ol  ilu;  mass  was  already 
ill  rapid  iiioiioii  lor  iIh>  lulls,  and  in  a  lew  sicuiids  tlio  luoviiinciit  had 
corniniini<'att'(l  iisrll  to  iIk;  whole  herd. 

A  crowd  ol'  hulls,  as  nsiial,  hroiii^ht  up  the  rciir,  and  every  now  nYld 
then  H)U\v.  of  them  laced  ahont,and  llieii  dashed  on  aller  iIm;  hand  a  .short 
disiance,  and  tnnied  and  looked  again,  as  it'  nune  than  hull'  inclined  to 
.stanil  and  liuhl.     In  a  lew  inoiiMints,  how«iver,  diiriii','  which  we  had  het'ii 


qnieUenini,'  onr  pace,  Hi*;  roiil  was  universal,  and  we  u cie  gom^'  over  the 
ground  like  a  hniricane.  \\  hen  at  ahi)iil  ihirty  yards,  we  t^ave  the  usual 
slionl,  (the  hunter's /^//.v  (/e  r/utrtfc,) -mhI  hroke  into  the  lnird.  VV (5  enter- 
ed on  the  ^ide,  the  mass  i;iviiiy:  way  in  every  dircciion  in  llii'lr  heedless 
course.  Many  ol  the  hulls,  less  active  and  less  llcel  than  the  cows,  pay- 
ing no  attention  to  ijie  ground,  and  occiipiitd  solely  with  the  hunter,  were 
preeipitateil  to  the  earth  with  threat  lorci^,  rolling  over  and  over  with  the 
violence,  ol"  the  shock,  and  hardly  distinguishahio  in  the  dust.  \Ve  scpa- 
ratctl  on  enteriiii:,  each  sin^lini;  out  his  L-aine. 

My  horse  was  a  trained  hunter,  lainons  in  the  west  under  the  name  ol' 
Troveau,  and,  with  his  ey«!s  llashinii:,  and  the  foam  tlyin^  t'roni  his  mouth, 
sprang  on  after  the  cow  like  a  ti;,'er.     In  a  few  nioinenls  he  hrought  me 
alongside  of  her.  and,  rising  in  the  stirrups,  I   lircd  at  the  distance  of  a 
yard,  the  hall  entering  at  the  termination  of  the  long  hair,  and  jiassing 
near  the  heart.     She  fell  hoadlong  at  the  report  of  the  gun,  and,  checking 
my  horse,  I  looked  around  lor  my  companions.     At  a  little  disiance,  Kit 
was  on  the  ground,  eiigagtul   in  tying  his  horse  to  the  horns  of  a  cow 
which  he  was  preparing  to  cut  U[).     Among  the  scaltiired  hands,  at  some 
distance  helow,  I  caught  a  glimpse  <-(  Maxwell ;  and  while  I  was  looking, 
a  light  wr(!ath  of  white  smol;e  curled  away  from  his  gun,  from  which  I  was 
too  far  to  hear  the  report.     Nearer,  and  hetween  me  and  the  hills,  towards 
which  they  were  direrting  their  course,  was  the  hody  of  the  herd,  and, 
giving  my  horse  the  rein,  we  dashed  afier  iIhmu      A  thick  cloud  of  dust 
hung  upon  their  rear,  which  Ulled  my  moiah  and  eyes,  and  nearly  smoth- 
ered me.     In  the  midst  of  this  I  could  see  nothing,  and  the  bull'alo  were 
not  distinguishahle  until  within  thirty  I'c.nl,     'I'hey  crowded  together  more 
densely  still  as  I  came  upon  them,  and  rushed  along  in  such  a  compact 
body,  thai  1  could  not  obtain  an  entrance — the  horse  almost  leaping  upon 
them.     In  a  few  moments  the  mass  divided  to  the  right  and  left,  the  horns 
clattering  with  a  noise  heard  above  every  thing  else,  and  my  horse  darted 
into  the  opening.     Five  or  six  bulls  charged  on  us  as  we  dashed  along 
the  line,  but  were  left  far  behind  ;  and,  singling  out  a  cow,  I  gave  her  my 
lire,  but  struck  too  high.     She  gave  a  tremendous  leap,  and  scoured  on 
swifter  than  before.     I  reined  up  my  horse,  ami  the  band  swept  on  like  a 
torrent,  and  left  the  place  quiet  and  clear.     Our  chase  had  led  us  into 
dangerous  ground.     A  prairie-dog  village,  so  thickly  settled  that  there 
were  three  or  four  holes  in  every  twenty  yards  square,  occupied  the  whole 
bottom  for  nearly  two  miles  in  length.     Looking  around,  I  saw  only  one 
of  the  hunters,  nearly  out  of  sight,  and  the  long  dark  line  of  our  caravan 
crawling  along,  three  or  four  miles  distant.     After  a  march  of  twenty-four 
iTiiles,  we  encamped  at  nightfall,  one  mile  and  a  half  above  the  lower  end 
oi  Brady's  island.     The  breadth  of  this  arm  of  the  river  was  eight  hur; 


try  now  nt»d 

I  l);iiiil  a  .short 
II'  inclined  to 

wu  liud  hcuii 
;oit»^'  over  (lii; 
avu  I  In;  nsuiU 
I.  VV(5  oiiUir- 
tlu'ir  ho«jdl(!ss 
u!  cows,  pay- 

liunlcr,  were 
;)vcr  Willi  the 
it.     We  scpa- 

r  the  imi/ie  ot' 

)in  his  tnoutli, 

le  hroughl  me 

(livStaiice  of  a 

,  and  passing 

and,  checkini^ 

distance,  Kit 

ns  of  a  cow 

iiids,  at  some 

was  looking, 

II  which  I  was 
lills,  towards 

the  herd,  and, 
cloud  of  dnst 
nearly  smolli- 

biiUalo  were 
ogether  more 
ih  a  compact 
leaping  upon 
efi,tlie  horns 
^  horse  darted 
dashed  along 

gave  her  my 
d  scoured  on 
ept  on  like  a 
[1  led  us  into 
ed  that  there 
led  the  whole 
saw  only  one 
f  our  caravan 
f  twenfy-fonr 
he  lower  end 
'^as  eight  hur; 


IQ4JI  1  t'M'T    FRKMONTM  \  AKIt  \  TIN  1).  91 

dwd  and  eighty  ynrds,  and  ili«'  wati-r  nowhero  two  O-el  In  »Ii'|)ili.  T\m 
iflland  henrs  thn  nann-  of  a  ni.-iii  killrd  on  this  spot  soiin'  vt'irs  nyo.  Mis 
party  hnd  encamp*)!  Ii)'r<>,  tlirei;  in  company,  and  on*'  ul  th**  niimhtM*  wtiil 
off  to  hunt,  Iftivmi;  Hrady  atui  hiv  roinpainon  lo^elhcr.  'I'licsi'  two  had 
fr(!(|ti<Mitly  ()narrr||t>d,  iijid  on  ll-U!  hnnlerVs  return  lie  foimd  llrady  dead, 
and  was  told  that  he  had  shut  hiuH<.'lf  accideiililly.  ||i'  w.is  hurled  lieri; 
Oti  tilt!  hank  ;  hot,  as  nsual,  the  wolvi!^  h:id  torn  him  mil,  and  some  hii'iiau 
bones  that  were  lyiii'.,'  on  the  ground  wi*  supposed  were  his.  'I'roops  of 
wolves,  that  were  hniii^'inu  on  the  skirts  of  the  hullilo,  kept  np  an  uuiiiter- 
riipted  howling  duriii'.,'  liie  iiiufht,  ventunii'^'  almosi  juto  <ainp.  In  thu 
morning,  they  were  silting  at  a  shurl  disiaijee,  hailunjr,  and  impatienily 
waitini;  oni  d''[)ariiire,  to  fall  upon  the  Ixmes. 

</u/i/  2. — The  mornin^r  was  cool  and  smoky.  Our  road  led  closer  to  the 
hills,  which  here  increased  in  elevatifni,  preseiiiing  an  oiillini;  of  conical 
peaks  thret)  hiindrt'd  to  live  Imiidred  feet  high.  Some  liinher,  apparently 
pine,  grows  in  the  ravines,  and  streaks  of  clay  or  sand  wliileu  tlieK  slopes. 
We  crossed  (hiring  iIkj  morniii'j  a  numher  ol'  hollows,  iimhered  princi- 
pally with  hox  elder,  (firrr  itvi^iniiln,)  pnplar,  .ind  elm.  hrady's  island  is 
well  wooded,  and  all  (lie  river  aloni,'  which  our  road  led  lo-day  may,  in 
general,  W.  called  tolerably  well  timhered.  Wo  jiassed  near  aii  encamp- 
ment of  the  Oregon  f'tnigranis,  where  they  app'-nr  tohav«'  repost;d  several 
days.  A  variely  ol  household  articles  were  scattered  al. out, and  they  had 
proUahly  dishiirdened  ihem^elves  here  of  many  iIiIm^'s  noi  ahsolultsly  ne- 
cessary. I  had  left  ilie  usual  road  heforc.'  the  iiiidday  halt,  ruid  in  th«!  af- 
ternoon, having  sent  several  men  in  advance  to  reconnoitre,  marched  di- 
rectly for  tin-  month  of  the  South  fork.  On  our  ai rival, the  hors"meii  were 
sent  in  and  scallered  ahoui  the  river  to  search  I  he  he^i  fordiiiu:  places,  and 
tin;  carts  followed  iimiiediaiely.  Tlit;  stream  is  here  dividi-d  |>y  an  island 
into  two  chrinnels.  The  .sontlierii  is  four  himd'ed  and  fifty  feet  wide, 
havint,'  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  wat(!r  in  the  dce'pcsi  pku'es.  With  the 
exception  of  a  few  dry  bars,  the  bed  of  the  riv(;r  is  generally  fpncksands, 
m  which  the  carts  began  to  siiilv  ra|)idly  so  soon  as  the  mules  hailed,  so 
that  it  was  necessary  to  keep  them  constantly  in  motion. 

The  northern  channel,  two  thousand  two  hundretl  and  fifty  leet  wide, 
was  somewhat  deeper,  baviiii:  fre([nently  three  leet  water  in  the  numer- 
ous small  channels,  with  a  bed  of  coarse  gravel.  The  whole  breadth  of 
the  Nebraska,  immediately  below  the  junction,  is  live  thousand  three  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet.  All  our  equipage  had  reached  the  left  b;ink  safely  at  ti 
o'clock,  having  to-day  made  twenty  miles.  Wc;  em.Minpted  at  the  point 
of  land  immediately  at  the  junction  of  the  North  and  Souih  forks.  He- 
tween  the  streams  is  a  low  rich  [)rairie,  extending  from  their  conlluence 
eighteen  miles  westwanlly  to  the  bordering  hills,  where  it  is  five  and  a 
half  miles  wide.  It  is  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grass,  and 
along  the  banks  is  a  sliL,'ht  and  scattered  fringe  of  cotton  wood  and  willow. 
In  the  buffalo  trails  and  wallows,  I  remarked  saline  etllorescences,  to 
which  a  rapid  evaporation  in  the  great  heat  of  the  sun  probably  contrib- 
utes, as  the  soil  is  entirely  unprotecte'i  by  timber.  In  the  vicinity  of  these 
places  there  was  a  bluish  grass,  which  the  cattle  refuse  to  t;at,  called  by 
the  voyageurs  '^  herbe  sulce,"  (.salt  grass.)  The  latitude  of  the  junction  is 
41°  04' 47",  and  longitude,  by  chronometer  and  lunar  distances,  1()0°49'43". 
The  elevation  above  the  sea  is  about  two  thousand  seven  hundred  feet.  The 
hunters  came  in  with  a  fat  cow;  and,  as  we  had  labored  hard,  we  enjoyed 


^1 


.J 


\ 


■'( 


•J4  r'.\rr.  nU'.MONT'H  .NAHI{ATI\K  [1648. 

W(>ll  i\  Nii|t;i<  r  i)|  iD.-i.^to'i  ril>s  mid  lunuliiis^  (lie  r/it/  tVtruitrt  of  %  prairia 

cook.       Mt)st|l|il<iis  lllliiiii^cil  iihiMII   UN    lIllH    t'Vi'liiti;;  ;    l»ilt,    \\y     10    o'cli)Ck, 

wlini  ilut  ituriiiuiiii'iir  liail  l.illitii  to  17 ',  liny  linl  nil  iliM;i|i|ii*nr(H}^/ 

./»//»/  .1.  —  An  Miis  was  (II  lit!  ti  |Hiiiit  ill  our  lioiiH'waril  joiiriH'V,  f  madfl  t 
cnr/ir  (u  ti'iiii  iimmI  in  all  iliis  niiiiitry  tur  wli;ii  i.  linMrii  in  tli«<  ^roiiml)  of 
abarnl  ol  \h»iU.  It  was  imiuissiMo  lo  romiMi  mkIi  u  iinuutrdiiiK  IriMii  tho 
Nliurp  «*yt*.s  (it'iMtr  ('linyuiino  i*(Mn|>aiiiMiis,  and  I  ilirrilori'  told  (Ikmii  io*'go 
and  N«u!  wli  It  It  was  iluy  wtnii  biiryiny:.  Tiny  would  (»dn'r\vis«<  htvo 
not  Called  to  K  tiini  and  distroy  oiir  ini/ie,  in  i'\|it'rtatioii  of  soin<!  ikMi 
Ixioty  ;  l)iit  |)oiU  they  di.sltlvt',  and  iiovcr  rat.  \\  <■  lilt  our  ramp  at  !',  ron« 
tinlllll^  u|i  till!  Soiitli  lork,  tliu  prairii*  bottmn  allordiiu^  us  a  fair  road  ;  hut 
in  tho  lout,'  urass  we  loihiid  myriads  of  nioMiniioi'.s  and  \\\v.s,  I'rum  which 
our  horsi'N  snllirrd  M'Vi'rrly.  Tin'  day  was  Miioky,  with  a  pleasant  hn  <•/•' 
I'rom  till'  sotiili,and  tin'  plains  on  tint  opposite  sidi;  were  covontd  with  hut- 
tnlo.  Ilavini;  iravtdlcd  twenty  tivi)  miles,  wu  cuieaniprd  at  U  in  the  uven- 
in^ ',  and  the  mtii  wire  sent  acru-^s  thi!  river  lor  wood,  as  tlieri;  is  none 
Iiure  on  the  li  It  haiil<.  Our  fires  were  partially  iii.idi!  ol'ilie  />/>/'v  t/c  var/if, 
the  (h'y  excrement  olilie  hnH'alo,  which,  lil<"  that  oltjieeamel  in  tho  Ara- 
bian deserts,  I'liriiishes  to  tliu  truvtdler  u  V(  ry  uood  Auh.stititiu  fur  wood, 
buriiiii;i;  like  turf.  Wolves  in  ^'ruat  nuinhers  siirroiiiidud  ns  (hirini^  tho 
niijht,  crossiiii,' and  recrossiny;  from  the  opposid!  henls  to  our  camp,  and 
huwlim;  and  iroitiiii:  about  in  ihn  river  until  momiiiL!. 

.//////  -1. — The  niorniny  was  very  smoky,  the  Mm  shininu;  <hm'v  and  red, 
ns  in  II  thick  fo^.  Tliu  camp  was  roused  witli  a  salute  at  day./rcMik,  and 
from  our  scanty  slme  a  portion  of  what  our  [iidiaii  friends  called  the  "  rcci 
firo  water"  st-rvcMJ  out  lo  iIk;  men.  While  wc  wen;  at  breakfast,  a  bulfalo 
calf  liroke  tliroii;,'h  lliu  camp,  followed  by  a  con|)lo  of  wolves.  In  its 
fright,  it  had  probably  mistaken  ns  for  a  band  ol'  bullalo.  'I'he  wolvos 
were  oblii^ed  to  niak't;  a  circuit  around  (lie  eaiiip,  no  ih.il  the  calf  i^ot  a  lit- 
tle iho  i;tart,aud  strained  every  nervu  to  riiach  a  lar^i;  herd  at  the  fool  ol 
tho  hills,  about  two  miles  distant;  but  first  one,  and  then  another,  and 
another  woll"  Joined  in  the  chase,  until  his  pursuers  amounted  to  twtiiity 
or  thirty,  and  they  ran  him  down  bt.'ibro  he  could  reach  bis  friends. 
There  were  a  few  bulls  near  the  place,  and  one  ol  them  attacked  the 
wolves,  and  tried  lo  risciie  him  ;  but  was  ilriveii  oil"  immediately,  and  the 
Httle  animal  fell  au  easy  prey,  half  devoured  before  he  was  dead.  We 
watched  the  chase  wiih  the  interest  always  lell  for  the  weak;  and  had 
there  been  a  saddled  horse  at  hand,  he  would  havi'  fared  better.  I^eaving 
camp,  our  road  soon  approached  the  hills,  in  which  strataof  a  marl  like  that 
of  the  Chimney  rock,  hereafter  described,  make  their  appearance.  It  is 
probably  oithis  rock  that  the  hills  on  the  riy;ht  bank  of  the  IMalie,  a  little 
below  the  junction,  are  composed,  and  whieli  an;  woiked  by  tlie  winds 
and  rains  into  sharp  peaks  ami  cones,  giviiii,'  lliein.  lii  contrast  to  the  sur- 
rounding level  region,  something  of  a  pietureMiue  appearance.  We 
crossed  this  morning  immerous  beds  of  the  small  creeks  which,  in  the 
time  of  rains  andmeltiim  snow,  pour  down  from  the  ridge,  bringing  down 
with  them  always  great  (juantities  of  sand  and  yavel,  which  have  gradu- 
ally raised  their  beds  four  to  ten  feet  above  the  level  of  the  prairie,  which 
they  cross,  making  each  one  of  them  a  miniature  Vo.  liaised  in  this  way 
above  tlie  surrounding  prairie,  without  any  bank,  the  long  yellow  and 
winding  hne  of  their  beds  resembles  a  causeway  from  ilie  hills  to  the 
river.     Many  spots  on  the  prairie  are  yellow  with  sunflower,  {helianthus.) 


[1849. 

^  o(  %  priirii* 
f  10  o'clock, 
••nri'd.-.' 
iM'v,  I  mndo  a 
till*  Kroiiiid)  of 
I'lliiiK  Irniii  the 

(1    tlliMII    (i)    1(0 

InTwisi'   liJvo 

of    SOIIU!     Il<*|| 

imp  nt  f),  roil* 
[.iir  road  ;  Ixii 
s,  (null  wliicli 

lousHlil  l»rri'/t' 

)rud  with  liiit. 
(>  ill  (lu!  ovrri- 

tlicir  is  Mono 
/tois  (Iv  vai'fn\ 
ul  ill  llio  Ara« 
ito  lor  wood, 
IS  diiriiii^  till! 
iir  ciiin|),  and 

im'v  and  ri:d, 
lay  -roalc,  and 
illi'd  tlic  "  rc(i 
fast,  ti  l)UiraI() 
)lv(!s.     In   its 
'I'lit!    wolv«s 
lie  ^ot  a  lit- 
tlio  Cool  oi 
notlier,  and 
to  twenty 
lis   IritMids. 
Hacked  tli« 
.'ly,  and  the 
dead.     Wo 
and  had 
I^eaving 
art  like  that 
iincc.     It  is 
alle,  a  little 
the  wind.s 
to  the  sur- 
tincp.      We 
licli,  in  tlie 
iigiiig  down 
lave  gradu- 
liiie,  which 
in  this  way 
mellow  and 
litis  to  the 
elianlhus.) 


rvrr.  iih:m<».ni>  NAititxTivi: 


'i'^ 


f 


ia4s.] 

Am  we  were  ridhi^  Hlowly  utoii'4  ihiN  ai'irrnoon,  ilotids  of  dii^t  in  tlr* 
'raviiH'M,  ntnotiK  iIk'  IiiIIn  (o  ihi;  r^dii,  Midlinly  itirarti'd  our  aiicntioii,  and 
in  u  1«'W  iiiiiiiiii'N  coliiiiiii  alter  ctdiiiiiii  of  loill'.ilo  (Miim*  f;allo|)iii.;  down, 
niakiiiL!  diii'tily  to  (he  riv*'r.  My  ih«'  Inii'  Ihi!  Icudiiit^  In  rds  had  reach'-il 
the  waiitr,  the  |ii'niriu  wan  darkened  with  lh«'  den^e  iiiait>uH.  liiiiiiMliately 
b<  (ore  iiM,  when  the  liands  first  raiiie  ilowii  into  the  vallty,  strelehi'd  an 
Unfirok<ii  liii  '.  lh<'  h«ad  o|  whieli  was  Inst  aiiioii;^'  iImi  river  hills  on  lli.' 
0|)|>Msi|i' >ide  ;  ..iid  hlill  thi'V  poiirrd  down  lioni  the  ridne  on  niir  right. 
From  hilt  to  hill,  the  prairie  hotlom  wan  nrtainiy  not  leMs  than  two  inile.s 
wuhs  and,  allowing  the  animals  to  he  ten  let!!  apart,  and  only  leii  in  a 
line,  there  wert!  already  elevrii  thousand  III  vii'W.  SniiM'  iiha  n  ay  thus 
be  lormi'd  ol  tliiM  imiiiher  when  tiny  had  oeeiipied  the  whole  plain.  In 
a  shoit  tinn-  lliey  stnroiiiKh'd  lis  on  evitry  side  ;  extending  I'or  several  miles 
in  (he  rear,  and  forward  as  far  as  the  eyi;  eoiild  leaeli  ;  Ittaving  around  ii.>. 
as  we  advaiiet'd,  an  open  spaei-ol'  only  iwo  or  three  hniidrt'd  yanls.  This 
niovomeiil  ol"  the  bidluto  indie.iled  to  lis  llie  pit  souce  ol'  Indians  on  the 
North  tork. 

1  hatti'd  earii)  r  than  usual,  ahoiit  forty  niihvs  from  the  junction,  and  all 
hamls  were  soon  Imsily  engaged  in  preparnii'  a  Irast  to  ecttihratt;  the  day. 
The  liindiiess  (d"  oiir  Iriends  at  St.  Luiiis  had  provided  us  with  a  largo 
supply  of  cxci'lleiit  pH'serves  and  rich  fruit  eake  ;  and  when  these  were 
added  to  a  niaccaroni  soup,  and  variously  pn-pared  dishes  of  tla;  choicest 
biill'alo  iiii'at,  erowiied  with  a  cup  of  rolfce,  and  enjoyed  witli  prairie  ap- 
jietite,  we  felt,  as  we  .sal  in  barbaric  luxury  around  our  smoking  supper 
on  tile  grass,  a  greater  sensation  of  eiijoyiiKtiit  tlian  the  Uomaii  epieiire  at 
Iiis  peri'iiined  feast.  Hul  most  of  nil  it  si  (•tned  to  please  our  Indian  friends, 
who,  ill  the  imreslraiiied  (Mijoyment  of  the  moment,  diMnanded  to  know  if 
our  •'medicine  days  came  otteii."  No  re>trainf  wa.s  exercised  al  (lie  hos- 
pitable board,  and,  to  tlit;  great  delight  of  his  elders,  our  young  Indian  hnl 
made  himself  extremely  drunk. 

Our  eiic.uiipmeiil  was  within  a  few  miles  of  the  place  where  the  road 
cross(!s  to  the  iXorili  fork,  and  various  reasons  led  nie  to  divide  rny  parly 
at  this  point.  The  North  fork  w.is  the  principal  oliject  of  my  survey,  but 
I  was  desirous  to  ascend  theSoiith  branch,  with  a  view  of  obtaining  some 
astronomical  positions,  and  detcrniining  the  mouths  of  its  Iribiita.'ics  as 
far  as  St.  Vrain's  fort,  (Estimated  to  Ik;  soiik!  two  hundred  miles  further  up 
the  river,  and  near  to  ]..ong's  [leak.  TIkmc  I  hoj)ed  to  obtain  some  mules, 
which  I  found  would  bo  necessary  to  relieve  my  horses.  In  a  military 
point  o[  view,  I  was  (b'siioiis  to  lorm  some  opinion  of  the  country  rtjialive 
to  the  establishment  ot'  posts  on  a  line  coimeeting  the  settlenienls  with 
the  South  |»ass  oi  \\\v.  Rocky  mountains,  by  w"jy  of  the  Arkansas  and  the 
South  and  Laramie  forks  of  the  Plal'e.  Crossing  the  country  northwest- 
wardly from  Si.  \' rain's  fort,  to  the  Ani(;rican  company's  fort  at  the  month 
of  Laramie,  would  give  me  some  acquaintance  with  the  allluents  wliieh 
head  in  the  mountains  between  the  two  ;  I  therefore  determined  to  set  out 
the  next  morning,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Preuss  and  four  men,  Maxwell, 
Bernier,  Ayot,  and  IJasil  Lajeimesse.  Our  Chcyennes,  whose  vill  ige  lay 
up  this  river,  also  decided  to  accompany  us.  Tlie  party  I  left  in  cliarge 
of  Clement  Lambert,  with  orders  to  cross  to  the  North  fork;  and  at  some 
convenient  place,  near  to  the  Coulv.c  dcs  Frines,  make  a  cache  of  every 
thing  not  absolutely  necessary  to  the  fiirtl.or  progress  of  our  expedition. 
From  this  point,  using  the  most  guarded  precaution  in  his  march  tlirough 


94 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[18411.1 


^I'T' 


l.li«; 


I  !i: 


the  country,  he  was  to  proceed  to  the  American  company's  fort  at  the 
inouth  of  Laramie's  fork,  aiul  await  my  arrival,  which  would  be  prior  to 
the  IGth,  asoM  that  and  the  following  night  would  occur  some  occuliationg 
which  I  was  desirous  to  obtain  at  that  place.  ft 

July  5. — Before  breakfast,  all  was  reudy.  We  had  one  led  horse  ih  ad- 
dition to  those  we  rode,  and  a  pack  mule,  destined  to  carry  our  instrumentsJ 
provisions,  and  baggage;  thu  last  two  articles  not  being  of  very  great 
weight.  The  instruments  consisted  of  a  sextant,  artificial  horizon,  &c.,  a| 
barometer,  spy  glass,  and  compass.  The  chronometer  I  of  course  kept  on 
my  person.  1  had  ordered  tlic  cook  to  put  up  for  us  some  flour,  coffee,  and 
sugar,  and  our  rifles  were  to  furnish  the  rest.  One  blanket,  in  addition  to 
his  saddle  and  saddle  blanket,  furnished  tlie  materials  for  each  man's  bed, 
and  every  one  was  provided  v  ith  a  change  of  linen.  All  were  armed 
with  rifles  or  double  barrelled  guns;  and,  in  addition  to  these,  Maxwell 
and  myself  were  furnished  with  excellent  pistols.  Tiius  accoutred,  we 
took  a  parting  breakfast  with  our  frie'jds,  and  set  forth. 

Our  journey  the  first  day  afforded  nothing  of  any  interest.  We  shot 
a  buffalo  toward  sunset,  and,  having  obtained  some  meat  for  our  evening 
meal,  encamped  where  a  little  timber  afforded  ns  the  means  of  making  a 
fire.  Having  disposed  our  meat  on  roasting  sticks,  we  proceeded  to  un- 
pack our  bales  in  search  of  coffee  and  sugar,  and  flour  for  bread.  With 
the  exception  of  a  little  parched  coflee,  unground,  we  found  nothing.  Our 
cook  had  neglected  to  put  it  up,  or  it  had  been  somehow  forgotten.  Tired 
and  hungry,  with  tough  bull  meat  without  salt,  (for  we  had  not  ben  able 
to  kill  a  cow,)  and  a  little  bitter  coffee,  we  sat  down  in  silence  to  oj./  mis- 
erable fare,  a  very  disconsolate  party;  for  yesterday's  feast  was  yet  fresh 
in  our  memories,  and  this  was  our  first  brush  with  misfortune.  Each  man 
took  his  blanket,  and  laid  himself  down  silently ;  for  the  worst  part  of  these 
mishaps  is,  that  they  make  people  ill-humored.  To-day  we  had  travelled 
about  thirty-six  miles. 

July  6. — Finding  that  our  present  excursion  would  be  attended  with 
considerable  hardship  and  unwilling  to  expose  more  persons  than  neces- 
sary, I  determined  to  send  iMr.  Preuss  back  to  the  party.  His  horse,  too, 
appeared  in  no  condition  to  support  the  journey;  and  accoiUingly,  after 
breakfast,  he  took  the  road  across  the  hills,  attended  by  one  of  my  most 
trusty  men,  Bernier.  The  ridge  between  the  rivers  is  here  about  fifteen 
miles  broad,  and  I  expected  he  would  probably  strike  the  fork  near  their 
evening  camp.  At  all  events,  he  would  not  fail  to  find  their  trail,  and  re- 
join them  the  next  day. 

We  continued  our  journey,  seven  in  number,  including  the  three  Chey- 
ennes.  Our  general  course  was  southwest,  up  the  valley  of  the  river, 
which  wus  sandy,  bordered  on  the  northern  side  of  the  valley  by  a  low 
ridge ;  and  on  the  south,  after  seven  or  eight  miles,  the  river  hills  became 
higher.  Six  mihs  from  our  resting  place  we  crossed  the  bed  of  a  consid- 
erable stream,  now  entirely  dry — a  bed  of  sand.  In  a  grove  of  willows, 
near  the  mouth,  were  th3  remains  of  a  considerable  fort,  constructed  of 
trunks  of  large  trees.  It  was  apparently  very  old,  and  had  probably  been 
the  scene  of  some  hostile  encounter  among  the  roving  tribes.  Its  soli- 
tude formed  an  impressive  contrast  to  the  picture  which  our  imaginations 
invohnifarily  drew  of  the  busy  scene  which  had  been  enacted  here.  The 
timber  appeared  to  have  been  much  more  extensive  formerly  than  now. 
There  were  but  few  trees,  a  kind  of  long-leaved  willow,  standing ;  and 


pit  • 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


85 


iny's  fort  at  the 
^uid  be  prior  to 
)mc  occultations 

led  horse  ifi  ad- 
our  instruinentsJ 
^  of  very  great 
liorizon,  &c.,  a! 
■  course  kept  on 
flour,  cofree,and| 
[,  iu  addition  to 
each  man's  bed, 
A.11  were  armed 
these,  Maxwell 
s  accoutred,  we 

3 rest.  We  shot 
for  our  evening 
ns  of  making  a 
)roceeded  to  un- 
)r  bread.  With 
J  nothing.  Our 
orgotten.  Tired 
d  not  be  n  able 
ence  to  o.i.'  mis- 
-t  was  yet  fresh 
ine.  Each  man 
•rst  part  of  these 
ve  had  travelled 

e  attended  with 
ons  tiian  neces- 
His  horse,  too, 
coiaingly,  after 
one  of  my  most 
•e  about  fifteen 
fork  near  their 
.'ir  trail,  and  re- 
he  three  Chey- 
of  the  rivei*, 
alley  by  a  low 
lills  became 
led  of  a  consid- 
>ve  of  willows, 
constructed  of 
probably  been 
ibes.     Its  soli- 
r  imaginations 
;ed  here.     The 
;rly  than  now. 
standing:  and 


3r 


ittierous  trunks  of  largo  trees  were  scattered  about  on  the  ground.  In 
Mtny  similar  places  I  had  occasion  to  remark  an  apparent  progressive  de- 
cay in  the  timber.  Ten  miles  farther  we  reached  the  mouth  of  Lodge 
^ole  creek,  a  clear  and  handsome  stream,  running  through  a  broad  valley. 
In  its  course  through  the  bottom  it  has  a  uniform  breadth  of  twenty-two 
feet,  and  six  inches  in  depth.  A  few  willows  on  the  banks  strike  pleas- 
tntly  on  the  eye,  by  their  greenness,  in  the  midst  of  the  hot  and  barren 
^ands. 

The  umorpha  was  freqtient  among  the  r-^'Mues,  but  the  sunllower  {heli- 
mthus)  was  the  characteristic  ;  and  llowers  of  deep  warm  colors  seem  most 
lo  love  the  sandy  soil.  The  impression  of  the  country  travelled  over  to- 
day was  one  of  dry  and  barren  sands.  We  turned  in  towards  the  river  at 
noon,  and  gave  our  horses  two  hours  for  food  and  rest,  I  had  no  other 
thermometer  than  the  one  attached  to  the  barometer,  which  stood  at  89'^, 
the  height  of  the  column  in  the  barometer  being  2fi  '?3)  at  meridian.  The 
sky  was  clear,  with  a  high  wind  from  the  soutn.  At  2,  we  continued  our 
journey,  the  wind  had  moderated,  and  it  became  almost  unendurably  hot, 
r|ind  our  animals  sulfered  severely,  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  the  wind 
iose  suddenly,  and  blew  liard  fron)  the  southwest,  with  thunder  and  light- 
iiing,  and  squalls  of  rain  ;  these  were  blown  against  us  with  violence  by 
the  wind;  and,  halting,  we  tu;ncd  our  baoks  to  the  storm  uiuil  it  blew 
dver.  Antelope  wore  tolerabiy  frequent,  with  a  large  gray  hare;  but  the 
former  were  shy,  and  the  latter  hardly  worth  the  delay  of  stopping  to  shoot 
them  ;  so,  as  the  evening  drew  near,  we  again  had  recourse  to  an  old  bull, 
and  encamped  at  sunset  on  an  island  in  the  Platte. 

We  ate  our  meat  with  a  good  relish  this  evening,  for  we  were  all  in  fine 
health,  and  had  ridden  nearly  all  of  a  long  summer's  day,  with  a  burning 
sun  rellected  from  the  sands.  My  companions  slept  rolled  up  in  their 
blankets,  ind  tho  Indians  lay  in  the  grass  near  the  fire ;  but  my  sleeping 
place  generally  had  an  air  of  more  pretension.  Oar  rifles  were  tied  to- 
gether near  the  muzzle,  the  buits  resting  on  the  ground,  and  a  knife  laid 
on  the  rope,  to  cut  away  iu  case  of  an  alarm.  Over  this,  which  made  a 
kind  of  frame,  was  thrown  a  largo  India  rubber  cloth,  which  we  used  to 
cover  our  packs.  This  made  a  tent  sufficiently  large  to  receive  about  lialf 
of  my  bed,  and  was  a  place  of  shelter  for  my  instruments  ;  and  as  I  was 
careful  always  to  put  this  part  against  the  wind,  I  could  lie  here  with  a 
sensation  of  satisfied  enjoyment,  and  hear  the  wind  blow,  and  the  rain 
ipatter  close  to  my  head,  and  know  that  1  should  be  at  least,  half  dry.  Cer- 
tainly, I  never  slept  more  soundly.  The  barometer  at  sunset  was  26.010, 
thermometer  81°,  and  cloudy;  but  a  gale  from  the  west  sprang  up  with 
the  setting  sun,  and  in  a  few  minutes  swept  away  every  cloud  from  the 
sky.  The  evening  was  very  fine,  and  I  remained  up  to  take  some  astro- 
nomical observations,  which  made  our  position  in  latitude  40°  51'  17",  and 
longitude  103°  07'  00". 

July  7. — At  our  camp  this  morning,  at  6  o'clock,  the  barometer  was  at 
26.183,  thermometer  69°,  and  clear,  with  a  light  wind  from  the  southwest. 
The  past  night  had  been  squally,  with  high  winds,  and  occasionally  a  few 
drops  of  rain.  Our  cooking  did  not  occupy  much  time,  and  we  left  camp 
early.  Nothing  of  interest  occurred  during  the  morning.  The  same 
dreary  barrenness,  except  that  a  hard  marly  clay  had  replaced  the  sandy 
soil.  Buffalo  absolutely  covered  the  plain  on  both  sides  the  river,  and 
whenever  we  ascended  the  liills,  scattered  lierds  gave  life  to  the  view 


46 


CAPT.   FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[184S 


.m 


llti 


1  ,)"  !;!''■ 


in  every  (lircclioii.  A  small  drove  of  wild  horses  made  their  appfarance  on 
the  low  river  liottoms,  a  mile  or  two  to  tlic  left,  and  1  sent  off  one  of  the  InJ 
diaiis  (wiio  seemed  very  eager  to  catch  one)  on  my  led  horse,  a  spirited  audi 
fleet  animal.  The  savage  maiueuvred  a  little  to  get  llie  wind  of  the  horses,! 
in  which  he  succeeded — approaching  within  a  hundred  yards  witliout  beJ 
ing  discovered.  The  chase  for  a  few  minutes  was  animated  and  interest^ 
ing.  My  himter  easily  overtook  and  passed  the  hindmost  of  the  wild  drovel 
which  the  Indian  did  net  attempt  to  htsso;  all  his  ellbrts  being  directed  tol 
the  capture  of  the  leader.  But  the  strength  of  the  horse,  weakened  by  the! 
insufficient  nourishment  of  grass,  failed  in  a  race,  and  all  the  drove  escaped.! 
We  halted  at  noon  on  the  bunk  of  the  river,  the  barometer  at  that  time  be' 
ing  26.192,  and  the  thermometer  103°,  with  a  light  air  from  the  south,  ami' 
clear  weather. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  dust  rising  among  the  hills  at  a  particular 
place,  attracted  our  attention;  and,  riding  up,  we  found  a  band  of  eighteen 
or  twenty  buffalo  bulls  engaged  in  a  desperate  fight.  Though  butting  and 
goring  were  bestowed  liberally,  and  without  distinction,  yet  their  efforts 
were  evidently  directed  against  one — a  huge  gaunt  old  bull,  very  lean, 
while  his  adversaries  were  all  fat  and  in  good  order.  He  appeared  very 
weak,  and  had  already  received  some  wounds,  and,  while  we  were  look- 
ing on,  was  several  times  knocked  down  and  badly  hurt,  and  a  very  few 
moments  would  have  put  an  end  to  him.  Of  course,  we  took  the  side  of 
the  weaker  party,  and  attacked  the  herd ;  but  they  were  so  blind  with 
rage,  that  they  fought  on,  utterly  regardless  of  our  presence,  although  on 
foot  and  on  horseback  we  were  firing  in  open  view  within  twenty  yards 
of  them.  But  this  did  not  last  long.  In  a  very  few  seconds,  we  created 
a  commotion  among  them.  One  or  two,  which  were  knocked  over  by  the 
balls,  jumped  up  and  ran  off  into  the  hills;  and  they  began  to  retreat 
slowly  along  a  broad  ravine  to  the  river,  fighting  furiously  as  they  went. 
By  the  time  they  had  reached  the  bottom,  we  had  pretty  well  dispersed 
them,  and  the  old  bull  hobbled  olf,  to  lie  down  somewhere.  One  of  his  en- 
emies remained  on  the  ground  where  we  had  first  fired  upon  them,  and  we 
stopped  there  for  a  short  time  to  cut  from  him  some  meat  for  our  supper. 
We  had  neglected  to  secure  our  horses,  thinking  it  an  unnecessary  precau- 
tion in  their  fatigued  condition  ;  but  our  mule  took  it  into  his  head  to  start, 
and  away  he  went,  followed  at  full  speed  by  the  pack  horse,  with  all  the 
baggage  and  instruments  on  his  back.  They  were  recovered  and  brought 
back,  after  a  chase  of  a  mile.  Fortunately,  every  thing  was  well  secured, 
so  that  nothing,  not  even  the  barometer,  was  in  the  least  injured. 

The  sun  was  getting  low,  and  some  narrow  lines  of  timber  four  or  five 
miles  distant  promised  us  a  pleasant  camp,  where,  with  plenty  of  wood 
for  fire,  and  comfortable  shelter,  and  rich  grass  for  our  animals,  we  should 
find  clear  cool  springs,  instead  of  the  warm  water  of  the  Platte.  On  our 
arrival,  we  found  the  bed  of  a  stream  fifty  to  one  hundred  feet  wide,  sunk 
some  thirty  feet  below  the  level  of  the  prairie,  with  perpendicular  banks, 
bordered  by  a  fringe  of  green  cotton  wood,  but  not  a  drop  of  water.  There 
were  several  small  forks  to  the  stream,  all  in  the  same  condition.  With 
the  exception  of  the  Platte  botiGm,the  country  seemed  to  be  of  a  clay  form- 
ation, dry,  and  perfectly  devoid  of  any  moisture,  and  baked  hard  by  the 
sun.  Turning  olf  towards  the  river,  we  reached  the  bank  in  about  a  mile, 
and  were  de'-ghted  to  find  an  old  tree,  with  thick  foliage  and  spreading 
branches,  where  we  encamped.     At  sunset,  the  barometer  was  at  25.950, 


Wll 

.th( 


fore 
^^Q^ 
adv 

Ipai 
ihe 
fcad 
but 

I 

It' 

ofi 


CAPT.   FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


27 


iir  af^arance  oi 
off  one  of  the  In. 

se,  a  spirited  audi 
ind  of  the  horses, 
ards  witliout  be-l 
ted  and  interest- 
»f  the  wild  drove,! 
being  directed  to 
vcakened  by  the 
le  drove  escappdj 
r  at  that  time  be 
n  the  south,  aiui 

Is  at  a  particular 

band  of  eighteen 

lUgh  butting  and 

,  yet  their  efforts 

bull,  very  lean, 

e  appeared  very 

3  we  were  look- 

and  a  very  few 

took  the  side  of 

re  so  blind  with 

ice,  although  on 

n  twenty  yards 

jnds,  we  created 

ked  over  by  the 

to  retreat 

as  they  went. 

well  dispersed 

One  of  his  en- 

n  them,  and  we 

or  our  supper. 

cessary  precau- 

lis  head  to  start, 

se,  with  all  the 

ed  and  brought 

IS  well  secured, 

ured. 

er  four  or  five 
enty  of  wood 
als,  we  should 
atte.  On  our 
eet  wide,  sunk 
dicular  banks, 
ivater.  There 
idition.  With 
of  a  clay  form- 
l  hard  by  the 
about  a  mile, 
and  spreading 
vas  at  25.950. 


)egan 


irmometer  81*,  with  a  strong  wind  from  S.  20'  K.,  and  the  sky  partially 
vered  with  heavy  masses  of  cloud,  which  settled  a  little  towards  the 
rizon  by  10  o'clock,  leaving  it  sulliciently  clear  for  astronomical  ob- 
rvations,  which  placed  us  in  latitude  -10 '  '.VS  2(»'',  and  longitude  103- 

37". 
July  S. — The  morning  was  very  plca.san*.     The  breeze  was  fresh  from 
50°  E.  with  few  clouds;  the  barometer  at  6  o'clock  .standing  at  25.970, 
id  the  thermometer  at  10°.    Since  leaving  the  forks,  our  route  had  passed 
er  a  country  alternately  clay  and  sand,  each  j)resenting  the  same  naked 
astc.     On  leaving  camp  this  morning,  we  struck  again  a  sandy  region, 
which   the  vegetation  appeared  somewhat  more  vigorous  than  that 
'•which  we  had  observed  for  the  last  few  days ;  and  on  the  opposite  side  of 
^e  river  were  some  tolerably  large  groves  of  lunber. 

Journeying  along,  we  carne  suddenly  upon  a  place  where  the  ground 
was  covered  with  horses'  tracks,  which  had  been  made  since  the  rain,  and 
^dicated  the  immediate  presence  of  Indians  in  our  neighborhood.  The 
iftalo,  too,  which  the  day  before  had  bee!»  so  numerous,  were  nowhere  in 
ht — another  sure  indication  that  theru  were  people  near.  Riding  on,  we 
covered  the  carcass  of  a  buffalo  recently  killed — perhaps  the  day  before, 
e  scanned  the  horizon  carefully  with  the  glass,  but  no  living  object  was 
be  seen.  For  the  next  mile  or  two,  the  ground  was  dotted  with  buffalo 
rcasses,  which  showed  that  the  Indians  had  made  a  surroimd  here,  and 
ere  in  considerable  force  We  went  on  quickly  and  cautiously,  keeping 
Ijj^e  river  bottom,  and  carefully  avoiding  the  hills;  but  we  met  with  no 
Interruption,  and  began  to  grow  careless  again.  We  had  already  lost  one 
43£  our  ho-ses,  and  here  Basil's  mule  showed  symptoms  of  giv'ing  out,  and 
.finally  refused  to  advance,  being  what  the  Canadians  call  resf6.  He  there- 
fore dismounted,  and  drove  her  along  before  hiin ;  but  this  was  a  very 
mI^ow  way  of  travelling.  We  had  inadvertently  got  about  half  a  mile  in 
l|dvance,  but  our  Cheyennes,  who  were  generally  a  mile  or  two  in  the 
ar,  remained  with  him.  There  were  some  dark-looking  objects  among 
e  hills,  about  two  miles  to  the  left,  here  low  and  undulating,  which  we 
d  seen  for  a  little  time,  and  supposed  to  be  butfalo  coming  in  to  water  ; 
|ut,  happening  to  look  behind.  Maxwell  saw  the  Cheyennes  whipping  up 
riously,  and  another  glance  at  the  dark  objects  showed  them  at  once  to 
Indians  coming  up  at  speed. 

Had  we  been  well  mounted,  and  disencumbered  of  instruments,  we 
Aight  have  set  them  at  defiance ;  but  as  it  was,  we  were  fairly  caught. 
it  was  too  late  to  rejoin  our  friends,  and  we  endeavored  to  gain  a  clump 
of  timber  about  half  a  mile  ahead  ;  but  the  instruments  and  the  tired  iUate 
^{  our  horses  did  not  allow  us  to  go  faster  than  a  steady  canter,  and  they 
ere  gaining  on  us  fast.  At  first,  they  did  not  appear  to  be  more  than 
fteen  or  twenty  in  number,  but  group  after  group  darted  into  view  at  the 
p  of  the  hills,  until  all  the  little  eminences  seemed  in  motion,  and,  in  a 
w  minutes  from  the  time  they  were  first  discovered,  two  or  three  hun- 
red,  naked  to  the  breech  cloth,  were  sweeping  across  the  prairie.  In  a 
w  hundred  yards  we  discovered  that  the  timber  we  were  endeavoring 
make  was  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river ;  and  before  we  could  reach 
e  bank,  down  came  the  Indians  upon  us. 
..    I  am  inclined  to  think  that  in  a  few  seconds  more  the  leading  man, 

fnd  perhaps  some  of  his  companions,  would  have  rolled  in  the  dust ;  for 
re  had  jerked  the  covers  from  our  guns,  and  our  fingers  were  on  the 


t8 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NAURATIVB. 


[H 


m 


I ; 


flit 


triggers;  men  in  such  cases  generally  act  from  instinct,  and  a  charge  froB 
three  hundred  naked  savages  is  a  circumstance  not  well  calculated 
promote  a  c^ol  exercise  of  judgment.     Just  as  he  was  ahout  to  fire,  Max^ 
well  recognised  the  leading  Indian,  and  shouted  to  him  in  the  Indian 
language,  "  You're  a  fool,  G — damn  you,  don't  you  know  me?"     Thj 
sound  of  his  own  language  seemed  to  shock  the  savage,  and,  swerving 
liis  horse  a  little,  he  passed  us  like  au  arrow.     He  wheeled,  as  I  rode  ou| 
toward  him,  and  gave  me  his  hand,  striking  liis  breast  and  exclaiming 
"Arapahol"     They  proved  to  be  a  village  of  that  nation,  among  whor 
Maxwell  had  resided  as  a  trader  a  year  or  two  previously,  and  recognised 
him  accordingly.     VVe  were  soon  in  the  midst  of  the  band,  answering  a<l 
well  as  we  could  a  multitude  of  questions  ;  of  which  the  very  first  was,  o:    jjj 
what  tribe  were  our  Indian  companions  who  were  coming  in  the  rear'    ^j 
They  seemed  disappointed  to  know  that  they  were  Cheyennes,  for  thcj 
had  fully  anticipated  a  grand  dance  around  a  Pawnee  scalp  that  night. 

The  chief  showed  us  his  village  at  a  grove  on  the  river  six  miles  ahead 
and  pointed  out  a  band  of  buffalo  on  the  other  side  of  the  Platte,  imme 
diately  opposite  us,  which  he  said  they  were  going  to  surround.  They 
had  seen  the  band  early  ni  the  morning  from  their  village,  and  had  beer 
making  a  large  circuit,  to  avoid  giving  them  the  wind,  when  they  discov- 
ered us.  In  a  few  minutes  the  women  came  galloping  up,  astride  or 
their  horses,  and  naked  from  their  knees  down,  and  the  liips  up.  Thej 
followed  the  men,  to  assist  in  cutting  up  and  carrying  off  the  meat. 

The  wind  was  blowing  directly  across  the  river,  and  the  chief  requestct 
us  to  halt  where  we  were  for  a  while,  in  order  to  avoid  raising  the  herd 
We  therefore  unsaddled  our  horses,  and  sat  down  on  the  bank  to  view 
the  scene;  and  our  new  artpiaintances  rode  a  few  hundred  yards  lowt" 
down,  and  began  crossing  the  river.  Scores  of  wild-looking  dogs  followed 
looking  like  troops  of  wolves,  and  having,  in  fact,  but  very  little  of  the 
dog  in  their  composition.  Some  of  them  remained  with  us,  and  I  checkec 
one  of  the  men,  whom  I  found  aiming  at  one,  which  he  was  about  to  kil. 
for  a  wolf.  The  day  had  become  very  hot.  The  air  was  clear,  with  a 
very  slight  breeze;  and  now,  at  12  o'clock,  while  the  barometer  stood  at 
25.920,  the  attached  thermometer  was  at  108°.  Our  Cheyennes  hao 
learned  that  with  the  Arapaho  village  were  about  twenty  lodges  of  thei: 
own,  including  their  own  families ;  they  therefore  immediately  com- 
menced making  their  toilette.  After  bathing  in  the  river,  they  invested 
themselves  in  some  handsome  calico  shirts,  which  I  afterward  learnec 
they  had  stolen  from  my  own  men,  and  spent  some  time  in  arrangins 
their  hair  and  painting  themselves  with  some  vermilion  I  had  given 
them.  While  they  were  engaged  in  this  satisfactory  manner,  one  of  their 
half-wild  horses,  to  which  the  crowd  of  prancing  animals  which  had  just 
passed  had  recalled  the  freedom  of  her  existence  among  the  wild  droves  j 
on  the  prairie,  suddenly  dashed  into  the  hills  at  the  top  of  her  speed, 
She  was  their  pack  horse,  and  had  on  her  back  all  the  worldly  weallh  of 
our  poor  Cheyennes,  all  their  accoutrements,  and  all  the  little  articles 
which  they  had  picked  up  among  us,  with  some  few  presents  I  had  given 
them.  The  loss  which  they  seemed  to  regret  most  were  their  spears  and 
shields,  and  some  tobacco  which  they  had  received  from  me.  However, 
they  bore  it  all  with  the  philosophy  of  an  Indian,  and  laughingly  con- 
tinued their  toilette.  They  appeared,  however,  a  little  mortified  at  the 
thought  of  returning  to  the  village  in  such  a  sorry  plight.    "Our  people 


».] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


29 


nd  a  charge  f^o[ 

/•ell  calculated 

>out  to  fire,  Max] 

in  ill  the  Indian 

now  me  ?"     Tlij 

1,0,  and,  swervint 

led,  .'IS  I  rode  oiil 

and  exclaiminj 

)n,  among  whoi 

y,  and  recognised 

nd,  answering  a? 

very  first  was,  o: 

ing  in  the  rear' 

jyenncs,  for  thej 

lip  that  night. 

six  miles  ahead 

he  Platte,  imme 

surround.     Tliey 

e,  and  had  beer 

hen  they  discov- 

ig  up,  astride  or 

hips  up.     They 

the  meat. 

e  chief  requestftc 

raising  tiie  herd 

le  bank  to  view 

red  yards  lowc 

g  dogs  followed 

ery  little  of  the 

IS,  and  I  checked 

vas  about  to  kiL 

as  clear,  with  a 

ometer  stood  at 

Cheyennes  hac 

Y  lodges  of  their 

mediately  com- 

r,  they  invested 

erward  learned 

ne  in  arrangins 

on  1  had  given 

ler,  one  of  their 

which  had  just 

the  wild  droves 

p  of  her  speed. 

rldly  weallh  ol 

little  articles 

its  I  had  given 

their  spears  and 

ne.     However, 

lughingly  con- 

lortified  at  the 

'Our  people 


e 


laugh  at  lis,"  said  one  of  them,  "returning  to  tiio  village  on  foot,  in- 
d  of  driving  back  a  drove  of  Pawnee  horses."  Ho  demanded  to  know 
I  loved  my  sorrel  hunter  very  much;  to  which  I  replied,  he  was  the 
ject  of  my  most  intense  atlection.  Far  from  being  able  to  give,  I  was 
yself  in  want  of  horses  ;  and  any  suiigestion  of  j)arling  wiih  the  few  I 
id  valuable,  was  met  with  a  peremptory  refusal.  In  the  mean  time,  the 
aughter  was  about  to  conunetice  on  the  other  side.  So  soon  as  they 
jached  it,  the  Indians  separated  into  two  bodies.  One  party  proceeded 
irectly  across  the  prairie,  toward  the  hills,  in  an  extended  line,  while  the 
ther  went  up  tht)  river;  and  instantly  as  they  had  given  the  wind  to  the 
erd,  the  chase  commenced.  The  buffalo  started  for  the  hills,  but  were 
fotercepted  and  driven  back  toward  the  river,  broken  and  running  in  every 
direction.  Tiie  clouds  of  dust  soon  covered  the  whole  scene,  preventing 
us  from  having  any  but  an  occasional  view.  It  had  a  very  singular  ap- 
pearance to  us  at  a  distance,  especially  when  looking  with  tlie  glass.  We 
were  too  far  to  hear  the  report  of  the  guns,  or  any  sound  ;  and  at  every 
Instant,  through  the  clouds  of  dust  whifh  the  sun  made  luminous,  ''C 
could  see  for  a  moment  two  or  three  bulfulo  dashing  along,  and  close  be- 
Iiind  them  an  Indian  with  his  long  spear,  or  other  weapon,  and  instantly 
Ugain  they  disappeared.  The  apparent  silence,  and  the  dimly  seen  figures 
flitting  by  with  such  rupidity,  gave  it  a  kind  of  dreamy  efi'ect,  and  seemed 
tnore  like  a  picturij  than  a  scene  of  real  life.  It  had  been  a  large  herd 
when  the  cer?ie  commenced,  probably  three  or  four  hundred  in  number; 
tut,  though  I  watched  them  closely,  I  did  not  see  one  emerge  from  tlie 
fatal  cloud  where  the  work  of  destruction  was  going  on.  After  remain- 
ing here  about  an  hour,  we  resumed  our  journey  in  the  direction  of  the 
village. 

Gradually,  as  we  rode  on,  Indian  after  Indian  came  dropping  along, 
rladen  with  meat;  and  by  the  time  we  had  iieared  the  lodges,  the  back- 
ward road  was  covered  with  the  returning  horsemen.     It  was  a  pleasant 
contrast  with  the  desert  road  we  had  been  travelling.     Several  had  joined 
•company  with  us,  and  one  of  the  chiefs  invited  us  to  his  lodge.     The  vil- 
lage consisted  of  about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  lodges,  of  which 
twenty  were  Cheyennes;  the  latter  pitched  a  little  apart  from  the  Arapa- 
hoes,     Tiiey  were  disposed  in  a  scattering  manner  on  both  sides  of  a 
broad  irregular  street,  about  one  hundred  and  fit\y  feet  wide,  and  running 
along  the  river.     As  we  rode  al.>ng,  I  remarked  near  some  of  the  lodges  a 
'.  kind  of  tripod  frame,  formed  ot  three  slender  poles  of  birch,  scraped  very 
i  clean,  to  which  were  affixed  the  shield  and  spear,  with  some  other  weap- 
;  ens  of  a  chief.     All  were  scrupulously  clean,  the  spear  head  was  burnish- 
ed  bright,  and  the  shield  white  and  stainless.     It  reminded  me  of  the 
days  of  feudal  chivalry;  and  when,  as  I  rode  by,  I  yielded  to  the  passing 
impulse,  and  touched  one  of  the  spotless  shields  with  the  muzzle  of  my 
gun,  I  almost  expected  a  grim  warrior  to  start  from  the  lodge  and  resent 
my  challenge.     The  master  of  the  lodge  spread  out  a  robe  for  me  to  sit 
upon,  and  the  squaws  set  before  us  a  large  wooden  dish  of  buffalo  meat. 
He  had  lit  his  pipe  in  the  mean  while,  and  when  it  had  been  passed 
around,  we  commenced  our  dinner  while  he  continued  to  smoke.     Grad- 
ually, five  or  six  other  chiefs  came  in,  and  took  their  seats  in  silence, 
"When  we  had  finished,  our  host  asked  a  number  of  questions  relative  to 
the  object  of  our  journey,  of  which  I  made  no  concealment;  telling  him 
simply  that  I  had  made  a  visit  to  see  the  country,  preparatory  to  the  es- 


i 

^ 


JO 


CAP'J'.  KKEMONT'S  NAKRATIVE. 


m 


\m 


1, 

1:1 

f 

't 

i. 

m 

[1949.] 

tablishmcnt  of  military  posts  on  tho  way  to  the  mw^nteitis.  Although 
this  was  information  of  the  highest  interest  to  them,  and  l)y  no  means 
•"alculatcd  to  please  theni,  it  excited  no  expressiorj  of  snrprise,  and  in  no 
way  altered  the  grave  courtesy  of  their  demeanor.  The  others  listened 
and  smoked.  I  reniurUed,  that  in  taking  the  pipe  for  tln^  first  time,  each 
had  turned  the  slum  upward,  with  a  rapid  glance,  as  in  oll'ering  to  the 
Great  Spirit,  before  he  put  it  in  his  mouth.  A  storm  had  hceii  gathering 
for  the  past  hour,  and  some  pattering  drops  on  the  lodge  warned  us  that 
we  had  some  miles  to  our  camp.  Some  Indian  had  given  Maxwell  a 
buiiJld  of  dried  meal,  whieh  was  very  acceptable,  as  we  had  notiiing;  and. 
springing  upon  our  horses,  we  rode  oil  at  dusk  in  the  face  of  a  cold 
shower  and  driving  wind.  We  lound  our  companions  under  some  densely 
foliaged  old  trees,  about  three  miles  up  the  river.  Under  one  of  them  lay 
the  trunk  of  a  large  cottoiiwood,  to  leeward  of  whieh  tlu!  men  had  kin- 
dled a  fire,  and  we  sat  here  and  roasted  our  meat  in  toler.nble  shelter. 
Nearly  opposite  was  the  moiuli  of  one  of  the  most  considerable  allluents 
of  the  South  fork,  la  Fourche  aux  Castors,  (Beaver  fork,)  heading  off  in 
the  ridge  to  the  southeast. 

July  9. — This  morning  wc  caught  the  first  faint  glimpse  of  the  Rocky 
mountains,  about  sixty  miles  distant.  Though  a  tolerably  bright  day, 
there  was  a  slight  mist,  and  we  were  just  able  to  discern  the  snowy  sum- 
mit of "  Long's  peak,"  ("' /t'.v  deux  oreii/en^'  of  the  Canadians.)  showing 
like  a  small  cloud  near  the  horizon.  I  found  it  easily  distinguishable, 
there  being  a  perceptible  dill'erence  in  its  appearance  from  the  white 
clouds  that  were  floating  about  the  sky.  I  was  pleased  to  find  that 
among  the  traders  and  voyageiirs  the  name  of  "  LiOiig's  peak"  had  been 
adopted  and  become  fi miliar  in  the  country.  In  the  ravines  near  this 
place,  a  light  brown  sandstone  made  it:>  first  ap|)eara!ice.  About  8,  we 
tliscerned  several  persons  on  horseback  a  mile  or  two  ahead,  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river.  They  turned  in  towards  tho  river,  and  we  rode 
down  to  meet  them.  We  found  thein  to  be  two  white  men,  and  a  mu- 
latto named  Jim  Beckwitli.  who  had  left  St.  Louis  when  a  boy,  and  gone 
to  live  with  the  Crow  Indians.  He  liad  distinguished  himself  among 
them  by  some  acts  of  daring  bravery,  and  had  risen  to  the  rank  of  a  chief, 
but  had  now,  for  some  years, left  them.  They  were  in  search  of  a  band  of 
horses  that  had  gone  otl"  from  a  camp  some  miles  above,  in  charge  of  Mr. 
Chabonard.  Two  of  them  continued  down  the  river,  in  search  of  the 
horses,  and  the  American  turned  back  with  us,  and  we  rode  on  towards 
the  camp.  About  eight  miles  from  our  sleeping  place  we  reached  Bijou's 
fork,  an  aftiuent  of  the  right  bank.  Where  we  crossed  it,  a  short  distance 
from  the  Platte,  it  has  a  sandy  bod  about  four  hundred  yards  broad ;  the 
water  in  various  small  streams,  a  few  inches  deep.  Seven  miles  further 
brought  us  to  a  camp  of  some  four  or  five  whites,  (New  Englanders,  I  be- 
lieve.) who  had  accompanied  Captain  Wyeth  to  the  Columbia  river,  and 
were  independent  trappers.  All  had  their  squaws  with  them,  and  I  was 
really  surprised  at  the  number  of  little  fat  buffalo-fed  boys  that  were  tum- 
bling about  the  camp,  all  apparently  of  the  same  age,  about  three  or  four 
years  old.  They  were  encamped  on  a  rich  bottom,  covered  witii  a  pro- 
fusion of  fine  grass,  and  had  a  large  number  of  fine-looking  horses  and 
mules.  We  rested  with  them  a  few  minutes,  and  in  about  two  miles  ar- 
rived at  Chabonard's  camp,  on  an  island  in  the  Platte.  On  the  heights 
above,  we  met  the  first  Spaniard  I  had  seen  in  the  country.     Mr.  Chabo- 


Val 
Wal 


»i] 


CAIT.   ''Kh'.'ONT'H  NARRATIVE. 


31 


tis.^  Although 
l)y  no  means 
ise,  mid  in  no 
Ttliers  listened 
irst  tiiiK!,  each 
jllcriiii^  to  the 
)V(iu  gathering 
'urned  us  that 
'11  Maxwell  a  I 
iiothinu^;  and 
iice  of  a  cold 
r  some  densely 
ic  of  them  lay 
!  innu  had  kin- 
cr.'ible  shelter, 
irablfi  alHuents 
lioading  off  in 

of  the  Rocky 
ly  bright  day, 
e  snowy  sum- 
ans.)  showing 
listinguishable, 
oni   the  wliite 
1  to  find  that 
ak"  had  been 
iues  near  this 
About  8,  we 
,  on  the  oppo- 
.  and  we  rode 
II,  and  a  mu- 
K)y,  and  gone 
imsolf  among 
nk  of  a  chief, 
1  of  a  band  of 
|l large  of  Mr. 
icarcli  of  the 
on  towards 
ched  Bijou's 
hort  distance 
Is  broad ;  the 
Imiles  further 
anders,  I  be- 
ia  river,  and 
and  I  was 
t  were  tum- 
hree  or  four 
witii  a  pro- 
horses  and 
o  miles  ar- 
Ihe  heights 
Mr.  Chabo- 


[ard  was  in  the  service  of  Bent  and  St.  Vraiii's  company,  and  had  left 
Heir  fort  some  lorty  or  fifty  miles  above,  in  the  .spring,  with  boals  laden 
rith  the  furs  of  the  last  year's  trade.  He  bad  met  tlit;  sanu;  fortune  as 
16  voyageurs  on  the  North  fork,  and,  finding  it  impossible  to  |)roceed,had 
iken  up  his  smnmer's  rrsidence  on  tbis  island,  which  be  had  named  St. 
lelena.  The  rivi'r  hills  appeared  to  be  composed  entirely  of  sand,  and 
le  Platte  had  lost  the  nuuidy  cbaracter  of  its  waters,  and  bere  was  toler- 
[bly  clear.  From  tbe  month  of  the  South  fork,  I  had  fonnd  it  occasion- 
lly  broken  up  by  small  islands;  and  at  the  lime  of  our  journey,  which 


as  at  a  season  o 


f  tb(!  y 


ear  wlieii  tlio  waters  wore  at  a  favoral)lo  stage,  it 


%;as  not  navigable  for  any  tliin;.^  drawing  six  inches  water.  Tlie  current 
was  very  swift — tbe  bed  of  tbe  stream  a  coarse  gravel. 

From  the  place  at  which  we  had  encountered  the  Arapaboes.  tbe  Platte 
had  been  tolerably  well  hinged  with  timber,  and  tbe  island  here  had  a 
fine  grove  of  very  large  cotton  woods,  under  whose  broad  shade  ibe  tents 
■were  pitched.  There  was  a  large  drove  of  horses  in  tbe  opposite  jjrairie 
bottom:  smoke  was  rising  from  the  scattered  fires,  aiiu  tbe  encampment 
bad  quite  a  i)atriarcbal  air.  Mr.  C.  received  us  hospitably.  One  of  the 
peopUi  was  sent  to  gather  mini,  with  llie  aid  of  wb'ch  be  concocted  very 
good  julep;  and  some  boiled  bull'do  tongue,  and  coffee  with  the  luxury 
of  sugar,  were  soon  set  before  us.  The  people  in  his  employ  were  gene- 
tally  Spaniards,  and  amoui::  them  I  saw  a  young  Spanish  woman  from 
Taos,  whom  1  found  to  be  Beckwilli's  wife. 

Jii/ij  10. — We  parted  with  our  hospitable  host  after  breakfast  the  next 
morning,  and  readied  St.  Vrain's  fort,  about  forty-five  miles  from  St.  Hele- 
na, late  in  the  evening.  This  post  is  situated  on  tbe  South  fork  of  the  Platte, 
immediately  under  the  mountains,  about  seventeen  miles  east  of  Long's 
peak.  It  is  on  tbe  right  bank,  on  the  verge  of  the  upland  prairie,  about 
forty  feet  above  the  river,  of  wliich  the  immediate  valley  is  about  six  hun- 
dred yards  wide.  Tbe  stream  is  divided  into  various  branches  by  small 
islands,  among  whicb  it  rims  with  a  swift  current.  The  bed  of  the  river 
is  sand  and  gravel,  the  water  very  clear,  and  here  may  be  called  a  mountain 
Stream.  This  region  appears  to  be  entirely  free  from  the  limestones  and 
inarls  which  give  to  the  Lower  Platte  its  yellow  and  dirty  color.  The 
Black  hills  lie  between  tbe  stream  and  the  mountains,  whose  snowy  peaks 
glitter  a  few  n.iles  beyond.  At  the  fort  we  found  Mr.  St.  Vrain,  M'ho  re- 
ceived us  witli  much  kindness  and  hospitality.  Maxwell  had  spent  the 
last  two  or  three  years  between  this  post  and  the  village  of  Taos  ;  and  here 
he  was  at  home,  and  among  his  friends.  Spaniards  frequently  come  over 
in  search  of  employment ;  and  several  came  in  shortly  after  our  arrival. 
They  usually  obtain  about  six  dollars  a  month,  generally  paid  to  them  in 
goods.  They  are  very  useful  in  a  camp,  in  taking  care  of  horses  and 
mules ;  and  I  engaged  one,  who  proved  to  be  an  active,  laborious  man, 
lind  was  of  very  considerable  service  to  me.  The  elevation  of  the  Platte 
here  is  five  thousand  four  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  The  neighboring 
mountains  did  not  appear  to  enter  far  the  region  of  perpetual  snow,  which 
Was  generally  confined  to  the  northern  side  of  the  peaks.  Oti  the  south- 
ern, I  remarked  very  little.  Here  it  appeared,  so  far  as  I  could  judge  in 
tbe  distance,  to  descend  but  a  few  hundred  feet  below  the  summits. 

I  regretted  that  time  did  not  permit  me  to  visit  them;  but  the  proper 
Object  of  my  survey  lay  among  the  mountains  further  north  ;  and  I  looked 
4^orward  to  an  exploration  of  their  snowy  recesses  with  great  pleasure. 


h 


3a 


CAPT.  fui:mont'8  naukative. 


[iMa. 


The  piiioy  region  of  tlin  mountains  to  the  south  wus  «vnrek>ped  in  smokeJ 
aMtl    I  was  inlorniecl  hud  hecn  on  lire  lor  several  months.     PiL  'a  peak  ii{ 
said  to  be  visihht  I'rom  this  piuce,  about  one  hundred  miles  to  the  south' 
ward;   but  the  smoky  stale  of  the  utmosjihero  prevented  my  seeing  it. I 
The  wefiiher  contimied  overeast  during  my  May  here,  so  that   1  failed  in 
doicrrnining  the  latitude,  but  obtained  good  observations  for  time  on  the 
mornings  of  the  11th  and  12th.     An  a:^sumcd  latitude  of  40*^22'  30"  frornl 
the  evening  [losiiion  of  the  12th,  enabled  me  to  obtain,  for  a  tolerably  cor- 
rect lojigitude,  105°  12'  12". 

Jnlxj  12. — 'I  he  kindness  of  Mr.  St.  Vrain  had  enabled  mo  to  obtain  al 
couple  of  horses  and  llirce  good  mules;  an(l,\viih  a  lurther  addition  to  our' 
party  of  the  Spaniard  whom  I  had  hired,  and  two  others,  who  were 
going  to  obtain  service  at  Laramie's  fork,  we  resumed  our  journey  at  10, 
on  the  morning  of  the  12th.  We  had  been  able  lo  procure  nothing  at  the 
post,  in  the  way  of  provision.  An  expected  supply  from  Taos  had  not  yet 
arrived,  and  a  few  pounds  of  collee  was  all  that  could  be  spared  to  us.  In 
addition  to  this,  we  had  dried  meat  enough  for  the  first  day  ;  on  tlie  next, 
we  expected  to  iiiid  butfalo.  From  this  post,  according  to  the  estimate  ot 
the  country,  the  fort  at  the  mouth  of  Laramie's  fork,  which  was  our  next 
point  of  destination,  was  nearly  due  north,  distant  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  miles. 

For  a  short  distance,  our  road  lay  down  the  valley  of  the  Platte,  which 
resembled  a  garden  in  the  splendor  of  fields  of  varied  flowers,  which  filled 
the  air  with  fragrance.  The  only  timber  I  noticed  consisted  of  poplar, 
birch,  Cottonwood,  and  willow.  In  something  less  than  three  miles,  we 
crossed  Thompson's  creek,  one  of  the  alliuents  to  the  left  bank  of  the 
South  fork — a  fine  stream  about  sixty-five  leer  wide,  and  thiee  feet  deep, 
Journeying  on,  the  low  dark  line  of  the  Hl.ick  hills  lyh)g  between  us  and 
the  momitaius  to  the  lei't,  in  about  ten  miles  from  the  fort,  we  reached  Cacht 
a  la  Paudrc,  wliere  we  halted  to  noon.  This  is  a  very  beautiful  moun- 
tain stream,  about  one  hundred  feet  wide,  flowing  with  a  full  swift  cur- 
rent over  a  rocky  bed.  We  halted  under  the  shade  of  some  cottonwoods, 
with  which  the  stream  is  wooded  scatieringly.  In  the  upper  part  of  its 
course,  it  runs  amid  the  wildest  moimtain  scenery, "and,  breaking  through 
the  Black  hills,  falls  into  the  Platte  about  ten  miles  below  this  place.  In 
the  course  of  our  late  journey,  I  had  managed  to  become  the  possessor  ot 
a  very  untractable  mule-r-a  perfect  vixen — and  her  I  had  turned  over  to 
my  Spaniard.  It  occupied  us  about  half  an  hour  to-day  to  get  the  saddle 
upon  her;  but,  once  on  her  back,  Jose  could  not  be  dismounted,  realizing 
the  accounts  given  of  Mexican  horses  and  horsemanship  ;  and  we  contin- 
ued our  route  in  the  afternoon. 

At  evening,  we  encamped  on  Crow  (?)  creek,  having  travelled  about 
twenty-eight  miles.  None  of  the  party  were  well  acquainted  with  the 
country,  and  I  had  great  difliculty  in  ascertaining  what  were  the  names 
of  the  streams  we  crossed  between  the  North  and  South  forks  of  the  Platte. 
This  1  supposed  to  be  Crow  creek.  It  is  what  is  called  a  salt  stream,  and 
the  water  stands  in  pools,  having  no  continuous  course.  A  fine-grained 
sandstone  made  its  appearance  in  the  banks.  The  observations  of  the 
night  placed  us  in  latitude  40°  42',  longitude  104°  57'  49".  The  barom- 
eter at  sunset  was  25.231 ;  attached  thermometer  at  66°.  Sky  clear,  except 
in  the  east,  with  a  light  wind  from  the  north. 

July  13. — There  being  no  wood  here,  we  used  last  night  the  bois  dc 


s:i 


[1848. 

>ped  in  smoke,  I 
Pill's  peak  is 
s  to  the  south- 
I  my  soiiing  it. 
hut  I  i'uilud  in 
for  time  on  the 
)°22'  30"  from 
I  tolerably  cor- 

[110  to  obtain  a 
addition  to  our' 
[!rs,  who  wero 
•journey  at  10, 
!  nothing  at  the 
aoshad  not  yet 
pared  to  us.  In 
r  ;  on  liie  next, 
the  estimate  ol 
h  was  our  next 
le  hundred  and 

e  Platto,  which 
jrs,  which  filled 
listed  of  poplar, 
three  miles,  wc 
ift  bank  of  the 
Ithiec  feet  deep, 
jetween  us  and 

reached  Cache 
)eautifui  inoun- 
I  full  swift  cur- 
ie cottonwoods, 

per  part  of  its 
feakiiig  through 

this  place.  In 
[he  possessor  ot 

turned  over  to 

get  the  saddle 
[nited,  realizing 

ind  we  contin- 

travelled  about 
tinted  with  the 
rere  the  names 
is  of  the  Platte, 
(alt  stream,  and 
fine-grained 
fvations  of  the 
The  baroni- 
[y  clear,  except 

rht  the  bois  dc 


]54g,J  CAPT.  FKH.MON'ra  NAKHATIVC.  33 

[iMtcAe,  which  ia  vnry  ph'iiiiriii.  At  our  camp  this  iiiorniim,  ilic  barometer 
was  at  2.^  2;]/) ;  tin;  ult;ulii'il  ilifiinnmetrr  <i() '.  A  lew  cIdikIs  were  moving 
{through  ade<ip  biiio  sky,  with  a  light  wind  from  ilic  wist.  Alter  a  ride 
jof  twelve  miles,  in  a  MoriJHMly  dirt!Ction,ov('r  a  plain  covered  with  innii- 
iTncrnble  fjiiaiitilies  ol' cttr/f,  wo  rfached  a  small  crtek  in  which  there  was 
Iwater,  and  where  soveinl  li'i'ds  ol  liutlUlo  wtjru  scatlerrd  ulxiiit  among  the 
jraviries,  wliirh  always  mIIokI  uood  |>asiiir!ig('.  \\v.  srcin  now  to  he  pass- 
ling  along  the  base  of  a  pl;U(!au  of  tlu;  HIack  hills,  in  which  ihi^  tormation 
[consists  of  nnirls,  some  of  them  white  and  liiminated  ;  llu*  foimtry  to  the 
jloft  rising  suddenly,  and  falling;  olfgrndually  and  unilorinly  i<»  the  right. 
In  five  or  six  miles  of  a  northeasterly  course,  we  st nick  a  liiifh   ndge. 


I 


tiroken  into  conical  peii  s,  on  whose  summits  large  boulders  were  gathered 
ill  heaps.  'I'he  mai>neiic  diieetioii  of  the  ridge  is  northwest  and  south- 
east, the  glitt(!riiig  white  of  its  precipitous  sides  makim,'  it  visible  formally 
miles  to  the  south.  It  is  composed  ol  a  soft  earthy  liiiH-siono  :ind  cnarls, 
resembling  that,  iKireaftcr  described,  in  the  neighboihood  of  the  (Jhimncy 
rock,  on  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte,  easily  worked  by  tho  winds  and 
rains,  and  sometimes  moiiMttl  into  very  fantastic  shapes.  Ai  the  foot  of 
the  northern  slo|)e  was  the  !)e(l  of  a  creek,  some  fcrly  fei  I  wide,  coming, 
l)y  frecpient  falls,  from  i\ni  Ixjiieh  above.  It  was  shut  in  by  hii;li  perpen- 
dicular banks,  in  which  weie  strata  of  wliito  lamiiiateii  marl.  Its  bed 
was  perfcictly  dry,  and  the  leading  feature  of  the  whole  region  is  one 
of  remarkable  aridity,  and  perfect  freedom  Iroiii  moisture.  In  about 
six  miles  we  crossed  the  bed  of  another  dry  creek  ;  and,  continuing  our 
ride  over  a  high  level  prairie,  a  little  before  sundown  W(!  came  suddenly 
upon  a  beautiful  creek,  which  revived  us  with  a  feeling  of  delighted  sur- 
prise by  the  |)leasant  coniiasl  of  the  deep  verdure;  of  its  banks  with  the 
parched  desert  we  had  passed.  Wo.  had  sufl'ered  much  t(j-day,  both  men 
and  horses,  for  want  of  woler;  having  met  with  it  but  onct!  in  our  unin- 
torrupted  marcii  of  Ibrty  miles,  and  an  exclusive  mea:  diet  creates  much 
thirst. 

'•''Las  heitids  tienen  nmcha  humhrc,"  said  tiie  young  Si)aniard,  inquir- 
ingly ;  *'i/  la  genie  tuinhienr  said  I,  "  amigo,  we'll  camp  h(!re."  A  stream 
of  good  and  clear  water  ran  winding  about  through  the  little  valley,  and  a 
herd  of  bulfalo  were  cpiietly  feeding  a  little  distance  below.  It  was  quite 
a  hunter's  j»aradise  ;  and  while  some  ran  down  toward  the  band  to  kill  one 
for  supper,  others  collected  hois  ile  vache  for  a  fire,  there  being  no  wood  ; 
and  I  amused  myself  with  hunting  for  plants  among  the  grass. 

It  will  bo  seen,  by  occasional  remarks  on  the  geological  formation,  that 
the  constituents  of  the  soil  in  these  regions  are  good,  and  every  day  served 
to  strengthen  the  imi)rcssion  in  my  mind,  confirmed  by  subsequent  ob- 
servation, that  the  barren  appearance  of  the  country  is  due  almost  en- 
tirely to  the  extreme  dryness  of  the  climate.  Along  our  route,  the  country 
had  seemed  to  increase  constantly  in  elevation.  According  to  the  indica- 
tion of  the  barometer,  we  were  at  our  encampment  5,440  feet  above  the 
sea. 

The  evening  was  very  clear,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  south,  50° 
east.  The  barometer  at  .sutiset  was  24.862,  the  thermometer  attached 
showing  68°.  I  supposed  this  to  be  a  fork  of  Lodge  Pole  crock,  so  iar  as 
J  could  determine  from  our  uncertain  means  of  information.  Astronomi- 
chI  observations  gave  for  the  camp  a  longitude  of  101°  39'  37",  and  lati- 
tude 41°  08'  31". 

3 


3 


i*. 


CAPT.  FRKMONT'H  NARPATIVR. 


[184t. 


(      / 


Juii/  It — Th(!  wind  loniiiiiiod  ircnli  ironi  ihc  Miiiutqiiartnr  in  the  morn- 
itiK  ;  the  day  Immiik  <-l*ai,  wiili  rlio  excrpiioii  of  ii  low  cIoikIm  in  iho  hori- 
zon. At  fnir  «'ani|>  nl  (»  tiNdork,  iho  hriglit  of  ihr  li.itoriMMnr  was  24.830, 
Uu!  atiaclKMl  ihtriiionK'tcr  (il".  Our  coiii.s<r  tins  riiDining  was  dirortly 
north  hy  coinpaxs,  ihc  vari.iliou  \u'\uu  l.'i"or  It/' rastcrly.  A  ride  of  foiirl 
inili'.s  bronuhl  us  lo  Lod^c  Polu  creek,  which  wo  had  seen  at  its  month  | 
on  Iho  South  fork  ;  imo-nIii'.,'  on  (he  way  two  dry  slrnaius,  in  eighteen  rnilrs 
from  t)ur  on  anipm'tit  of  the  past  ni:!ht,  wo  rfinliod  a  high  hloak  ridgr, 
coinpoNtid  itntmly  td  iho  saiuo  earthy  hinostont'  and  mail  pri>viou.sly  dtv 
ac^ribod.  I  had  nuvi-r  Htiiii  any  thing  which  impro cd  .so  strongly  on  my 
mind  a  feoliii-j:  of  disolation.  The  valley,  through  which  ran  the  watoMJ 
of  Horse  cr(!<'k,  lay  in  viow  to  the  norih,  l)nt  too  t.;r  to  liavo  any  iiilluonc 
on  the  inimcdiatt'  viow.  On  the  pi-ak  of  tho  riilgc.  wh'/ro  I  was  slandill^, 
Aome  t-ix  or  seven  hiindn'd  feet  above  the  river,  the  wind  was  high  and 
bleak;  the  barren  ami  arid  country  .seemc'  as  if  it  had  been  swept  by 
fires,  and  in  (jvory  dir<'('.iion  tho  same  (!ull  asti  colored  hue,  dtiriveil  from 
the  formation,  met  th''  «ye.  On  the  snnnnils  wore  sonu!  .stunted  pines, 
many  of  them  dead,  all  wearing  the  same  aslu'ii  hue  (d'  desolation.  VVf 
loll  the  place  with  pleasure  ;  and,  after  we  had  dcscondod  sev(!ral  hundri'il 
foot,  halted  in  one  of  the  ravines,  which,  at  the  distanct!  of  every  mile  o; 
two,  cut  the  llanks  of  tlu;  ri<lge  with  little  rushing  sirojiius,  wearing  som*;- 
thing  of  a  nionniain  iliaracter.  Wo  had  already  beirnu  to  exchange  the 
comparatively  barren  lands  for  those  of  a  more  H.-rtilo  eliaraclor.  Though 
tho  sandstone  formod  the  broken  banks  of  the  crcelc.  yet  they  were  cov- 
ered  with  a  iliin  grass  ;  and  the  fifty  or  sixty  feet  which  formed  the  bottom 
land  of  the  little  stream  wore  clothed  with  very  luxuriant  grass,  amoni,' 
whic}i  I  remarked  willow  and  cherry,  {cer(tsu.<i  riru^iniana  ;)  and  a  (luan- 
tity  of  gooseberry  and  currant  bushes  occupied  ihc  tirealer  part. 

The  creek  was  llirce  or  four  feet  broad,  and  about  six  inches  d(U)p,  with 
a  swift  current  of  clear  water,  and  tolerably  cool.     We  had  struck  it  Iom 
low  down  to  liiul  the  cold  water,  wliich   wo  should  have  enjoyed  nearer 
to  its  sources.     At  2,  p.   m.,   the  barometer   was  ;it  2.5.050,  the  attached 
thermometer  10  r.     A  day  of  hot  sunshine,  with  clouds,  and  a  moderate 
breeze  from  the  south.     Continuing  down  the  stream,  in  about  four  miles 
we  readied  its  mouth,  at  one  of  the  main  branches  of  Horse  creek.    Looking 
back  upon  the  ridge,  whose  direction  appeared  to  be  a  little  to  the  north  oi 
cast,  we  saw  it  .•earned  at  Ireiiuent  intervals  with  the  dark  lines  of  wooded 
streams,  alHuents  of  the  river  that  flowed  so  far  as  we  could  see  along  it.'< 
base.     We  crossed,  in  the  space  of  twelve  miles  from  our  noon  halt,  three 
or  four  forks  of  Horse  creek,  and  encamped  at  sunset  on  the  most  easterly. 
The  fork  on  which  we  encamped  appeared  to  have  followed  an  easterly 
direction  up  to  this  place ;  but  here  it  makes  a  very  sudden  bend  to  the 
north,  passing  between  two  ranges  of  precipitous  hills,  called,  as  I  was  in- 
formed, Goshen's  iiole.     There  is  somewhere  in  or  near  this  locality  a 
place  so  called,  but  I  am  not  certain  that  it  was  ihe  place  of  our  encamp- 
ment.    Looking  back  upon  the  spot,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles  to  the 
northward,  the  hills  appear  to  shut  in  the  prairie,  through  which  runs  the 
creek,  with  a  .semi-circular  sweej),  which  might  very  naturally  be  called  a 
hole  in  the  hills.     Tiio   geological  composition  of  the  ridge  is  the  same 
which  constiiiiies  the  rock  of  the  Court-house  and  Chimney,  on  the  North 
fork,  which  appeared  to  me  a  continuation  of  this  ridge.     The  wind.s  and 
rains  work  this  formation  into  a  variety  of  singular  forms.     The  pass  into 


[1941. 

t^^rin  the  morn- 1 
lis  III  tho  hori- 
f«!r  was  1^4.830,1 
g   was   <lir«rtly 
A  ri(l«  of  four 
II  at   its  luotith 
I  «!ii,'lili!eii  tnilr>t 
!^li  hicak   ruigi*,| 
pr«!VMmsly   df- 
itronu'ly  (MI  iiiv 
riiii  ilie   wat«ir> 
«!  any  iiitltK^nc 
I  Wiis  standing, 
was  high  and 
hecn  swept  by 
-!,  (hjrivrd  from 
}  stunted  pines, 
tosolation.     We 
several  hiuulretl 
I  cvrry  mile  or 
,  wearing  soinn- 
0  exchang(5  the 
ant«^r.     Though 
they  were  cov- 
rmed  the  bottom 
lit  grass,  among 
a  ;)  and  a  (luati- 
r  pari. 

ches  deep,  with 

d  struck  it  too 

enjoyed  nearer 

0,  the  attached 

nd  a  moderate 

botit  four  miles 

reek.    Looking 

le  to  the  north  oi 

lines  of  wooded 

Id  see  along  its 

oon  halt,  three 

e  most  easterly. 

wed  an  easterly 

n  bend  to  the 

d,  as  I  was  in- 

this  locality  a 

i'  our  encamp- 

w  miles  to  the 

hich  runs  the 

lly  be  called  a 

j;e  is  the  same 

,  on  the  North 

'he  winds  and 

The  pass  into 


0 


C.M'T    KUKMONTrt  N.XKU.-V  PIVR 


i$ 


I 


lOothen'f  holn  is  about  two  unleN  wii!  >,  nnd  tho  lull  on  the  wetiteru  nuh* 
Imitated,  in  an  extraordinary  inuniuir,  i  tiui.vsivc  iDrtiried  place,  with  a  ns- 
nmrkabli*  fulness  of  detail.  The  rock  is  mail  and  earthy  limeNtone,  white, 
witliiHii  the  lea>t  appearance  of  vegeiaii<)n.  iiid  niueh  ri'stimbles  mu.sonry 
.|kt  a  hiilo  distnnco;  and  hero  it  Mwccps  around  a  hvel  aiea  two  or  thre»j 
hundred  y  <r  l^-i  III  diameter,  and  in  the  lorin  of  a  half  moon,  termuiaiing 
on  ei  ler  exireiniiy  111  enormous  bastions.  Along  the  whole  lin»;  of  tlo 
nnrape.s  ap|»(':ir  domes  and  .slend»'r  minarefs,  forty  or  fifty  feet  lugh, giving 
It  every  appearance  of  an  old  fortified  town.  On  tho  waters  of  White 
liver,  wh<!r«)  this  formation  i.'xi.sts  in  ^real  e.vtent,  it  presents  apptjarances 
whii'h  excite  flic  admiration  of  the  solitary  voyaijenr,  ami  (oriii  a  frequent 
theme  ol'lhiir  conven^ation  when  speaking  of  the  wonders  of  the  coimtry. 
Sonn:iiines  it  oilers  the  perfectly  illusive  appe.iratmc  of  n  Large  city,  with 
nuriieroiis  streets  and  magnificent  huililin<j;s,  among  which  the  Canadians 
never  fail  to  see  their  cahttrrt :  aiiil  soiiiciiincN  it  fakes  the  fo'in  of  a  soli- 
tary house,  With  many  large  chambers,  into  u  Inch  they  drive  lluMr  horses 
at  night,  and  I'.p  m  tliesu  natural  deftsnces  perfectly  secure  from  any  at- 
tack of  prowling  savages,  lielore  reaching  our  camp  at  (loshen's  hole, in 
crossing  the  immeiisf?  detritus  at  the  foot  of  (he  Castle  rock,  we  were  in- 
volved ;unidst  winding  pa.-..>ages  cut  by  tin*  watrrs  of  the  lull;  and  whor»', 
with  a  hrcadtli  scarcely  large  enough  for  the  passage  of  a  hors«',  the  walls 
rise  thirty  and  forty  feet  perpendicularly.  'I'iiis  formation  supplies  tlnj 
discoloration  of  tlas  Platte.  At  sunset,  the  hoight  of  the  mercurial  columti 
was  2.0. /)()(),  the  attaclu.d  thermometer  «(/',  and  wind  moderate  from  S. 
2%'^  E.  (Jlouds  covered  the  sky  with  the  rise  of  the  moon,  but  I  succeethjd 
in  obtaining  the  usual  astronomical  observations,  which  placed  us  in  latitude* 
41°  40'  l;i",  and  longitude  104'^  24'  'Mi' . 

Juhj  15. — At  (i  this  morning,  the  barometer  was  .it  25.51. "i, the  thermoni- 
efer  72";  tin?  day  was  fine,  with  some  clouds  looking  dark  on  the  south,  with 
a  fre.sh  breeze  from  the  same  quarter.  We  found  that  in  our  journey  across 
the  country  we  had  kept  too  much  to  the  eastwnrd.  This  morning, accord- 
ingly, W(!  travelleii  by  compass  some  l."")  or  20"  to  the  west  of  north,  and 
struck  Mie  Platte  some  thirteen  miles  below  Fort  Laramie.  Tlie  day  was 
extremei/  hot,  and  among  the  hills  the  wind  seemed  to  have  just  issued 
from  an  ovxMi.  Our  horses  were  much  distressed,  as  we  had  travelled 
hard  ;  and  it  was  with  some  dilliculty  that  they  were  all  brought  to  the 
Platte;  which  we  reached  at  1  o'clock.  In  riding  in  towards  the  river, 
we  found  the  trail  of  our  carts,  which  appeared  to  have  passed  a  day  or 
two  since. 

After  having  allowed  our  animals  two  hours  for  food  and  repose,  we 
resumed  our  journey,  and  towards  the  close  of  the  day  came  in  sight  of 
Laramie's  fork.  Issuing  from  the  river  hills,  we  came  first  in  view  of 
Fort  Platte,  a  post  belonging  to  Messrs.  Sybille,  Adams,  &  Co.,  situated 
immediately  in  the  point  of  land  at  the  jimclion  of  Laramie  with  the 
Platte.  Like  the  post  we  had  visited  on  the  South  fork,  it  was  built  of 
earth,  and  still  unfinished,  being  enclosed  with  walls  (or  rather  houses)  on 
three  of  the  sides,  and  open  on  the  fourth  to  the  river.  A  few  hundred 
yards  brought  us  in  view  of  the  post  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  call- 
ed Fort  John,  or  Laramie.  This  was  a  large  post,  having  more  the  air  of 
military  construction  than  the  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  It  is  on  the 
left  bank,  on  a  rising  ground  some  twenty  five  feet  above  the  water;  and 
its  lofty  walls,  whitewashed  and  picketed,  with  the  large  bastions  at  the 


I 


^t 


f' 


J<1 


t  M*"]'.   FKKMONI  H  NMUIVIIVK 


.'UihIi'm,  ^nvlt  it  (piitn  nil  tiii|HiNiti^  ;i|i)>ciirnni'r  m  i|ii<  iintrrtnin  light  of 
I  VriiiUK.  A  ('lu^U'l'  iM  l<>tlL;)'s,  wht<  li  llii;  lllll^ll:u;l)  lolil  IH  lu>loiigt'd  to 
Siimx  ImliitiiN,  w.'iN  |»itclii'il  iiikIit  tin*  w;iIIn,  and,  wiili  tin*  Otin  hnric 
■jrriMihd  III  lilt*  niiick  liilh  iiid  llir  |)iiMiiiiii'iil  peak  <>('  Ltiriiiiiif  iitoiiiituiii, 
strongly  dniwii  iii  iIp'  rltiii  It  hi  oi  ilic  wcstrrn  sky,  wlini'  ilii'  miii  hiid 
iilr*'i(dy  .N<(,th(>  wlmlo  litriiitMl  ;it  ilit>  niniiirni  u  Nirikiiiuly  Id  itiitiliil  tMiiiirc. 
From  llic  n)iii|tiiiiy  ill  Si.  Lmiiin  I  li;id  li'ilcrs  lor  Mr.  Iloiidciii,  tiin  :.,  •illu- 
man  in  cliarui!  nl' tliu  post,  liy  wliom  |  was  ri'«'<>ivcil  with  '^ri'al  h(>s|)ilaliiy 
and  .'III  ('iriciciit  kiii(hit>.s.s,  whhh  was  mvaliiahlif  to  iid'  diiiiiiL'  my  slay  iti 
lh«'  ('(iinili  y.  I  loinid  our  iMopIr  •iii' iiii|ird  on  iho  hunk,  a  vhoit  (h^iancn 
abovii  (ho  lort.  All  wm;  well ;  and,  in  l\u^  uiijoym<'iit  of  a  hoiiniilnl  slip- 
per, wliit'h  coll'i'c  and  hri'ad  inadi'  hixinioiis  lu  lis,  wi)  soon  I'orgot  ilm  fu- 
tit^iifs  ol'  tli«<  last  Icn  d.iy>. 

•/f////  Hi. — I  toiiiid  dial,  diiiiii'^'  my  .ihriicr,  ihi*  siliiation  of  alltiirs  had 
lmd^r^ollo  soiiir  chaiimi! :  and  ihc  usual  ([iiict  and  Nomi'whal  inoiioioiioiiM 
rcgularily  id'  llut  ramp  had  ).'ivrn  plai*(>  lo  rxrilMiwiit  and  alarm.  Tlii! 
circiim.siaia'cs  wliirh  ocrasjuiird  iliis  cliaiD^'i'  wdl  he  loiiiid  iianalcd  in  (ho 
Icdlowing  tf.Mracl  Ironi  ilu;  n>iiiiial  ol  Mr.  i'rt'iiss,  wliifh  comnu'iiccs  with 
iIk!  day  ut'  uiir  .separation  on  the  Sotiih  link  ut  the  Platte. 

Extract  ft'oni  tfiv  jintrmil  of  Mr.  /'ri'irss. 

*'Jn/i/  (I — Wo  ero.ssod  the  plateau  or  Iiii;hlniid  between  the  two  lorks  in 
ahoiit  SIX  hours.  I  lei  my  hoisu  git  as  slow  as  he  liked,  to  iiidiMiMiijy  ns 
l)o!h  lor  th(!  |)revioiis  liardsliip;  and  ahoni  noon  we  reaelierl  the  North 
I'ork.  Theri' was  no  siijii  lliai  our  parly  had  passed;  W(!  rode,  ilmridori', 
lo  some  piiu'  trees,  iinsad.ili'd  ihe  liorMS,  and  slreielu-d  our  limhs  on  the 
j»ras8,  awaiting  the  arrival  ol'  our  trompaiiy.  Al'ier  reniainiii;^^  jiere  Iwo 
hours,  my  eompanion  heeaiin!  iiiipaiicnt,  momileil  his  lioise  a::ain.  and 
rode  oil"  down  ihe  river  lo  set;  d'  lie  (.-oiild  discover  oiir  people.  I  Hit  so 
inarodi!  yet,ljial  it  was  a  lioiiil>'«(  idea  to  me  lo  hestriile  theJ  saddl(!  ;ii,Min; 
so  1  lay  still.  I  knew  liny  eoiild  not  come  any  other  way,  and  then  my 
companion,  oiu'  of  die  hcvi  uien  of  llie  company,  would  not  ahandon  me. 
The  siin  wenldown;  he  did  not  conu!.  Uneasy  1  did  not  feel,  but  ve'ry 
hungry;  I  luul  no  provisions,  bnf  1  eonid  make  a  lire;  and  as  I  esjiiiMl 
two  doves  in  a  tree,  I  tried  lo  kill  one;  hut  it  needs  a  better  marksman 
than  ir.yself  to  kill  a  Utile  bird  wiiha  rille.  1  made  a  larire  fire,  liowiiver, 
lighted  my  [)ipe — this  iriii'  iVieml  of  mine  in  every  emerij^cMicy — lay  down, 
and  let  my  thoie^dils  wandi  r  (o  ihe  ilir  east.  It  was  not  many  minutes  alU.-r 
when  1  heard  the  tramp  of  a  hor^ie,  and  my  faithful  companion  was  by 
my  side.  He  had  foiml  ihe  party,  who  hud  been  delayed  by  making 
their  caelum  about  j^evcji  miles  bijlow.  To  the  good  supper  which  he 
brought  with  him  I  did  iniple  justice.  \h'  had  forgollen  salt,  and  I  tried 
the  soldier's  substitute  in  time  of  war,  and  used  gunpowder ;  but  it  an- 
swered badly — bitter  enough,  but  no  llavor  of  kitchen  salt.  1  slept  well ; 
and  was  only  disturbed  by  two  owls,  which  were  attracted  by  the  fire, 
and  took  their  place  in  the  tree  under  which  wo  slept.  TluMr  music 
seemed  as  disagreeable  to  my  companion  as  to  myself;  ho  fired  his  rifle 
twice,  and  then  they  let  us  alone. 

'■^July  7. — At  about  10  o'clock,  the  party  arrived;  and  we  continued  our 
iourney  through  a  country  which  otfered  but  little  to  interest  the  traveller. 
The  soil  was  much  more  sandy  than  in  tiie  valley  below  the  conlluence 


vMn'  rH\:>ti}\r!<  wiujxrivK 


of  tlifl  forki^,  afnl  till"  f'a«'«' Ml    llm  roiiiiliy  ln»   Ihii/iT   |irnMnil»M|   lln-  r-frt'^l 


n  of  iiHiiirs  had 
i.-il  rn'iiiMiiMKMiM 
III  al.-irrii.  'The 
ti.'innii'il  III  iju) 
oiiinit'iK'ON  witli 


lin  two  forks  in 
lo  iiKlciiiiiijy  IIS 
clicfj  iln!  Norlli 
rod*',  ihcrdorc, 
|ir  liiiihs  on  tlii! 
liii!/  liiTt!  (wo 

M>    illiilill.  .'iiui 

|>lo.     I  I'clt  so 
s:ul(ll(!  :ii,Miri; 

lllld   tllCM   III/ 

:il);iii(luii  inu. 
I'l-'ol,  1)11 1  v«;ry 
1 1  as  I  osj)i(Ml 
tiT  niarksiiian 
liic,  li()W(!Vi!r, 
y — lay  down, 
iniiiiites  aflur 
iiioii  was  by 
d  Ijy  niaUiiig 
)or  which  he 
it,  and  I  tried 
r ;  hilt  it  aii- 

I  slept  well ; 
d   hy  tlie  fire, 

Their  music 

lircd  his  rifle 

joiitinued  our 
the  traveller, 
le  confluence 


i«K  K 


r«'i'ii 


whi'h  IiikI  IhiIhtjo  rhMiiirtrri/'-d  II.     TIim  ri«'h  ifriiH"*  whn  now 


I 


foniid  only  iii  dinpurist'd  spoli,  on  lov\r  i;iotiiMh,  rind  on  llin  holtom  liiiid  of 

Ithc  Ntr*>aiii'<.     A  lon^C  droiiuhl,  juini'd  to  I'Xtri'nin  liciit,  had  mo  purclird  up 

th«'  iipp'T  prairi' s,  that  tln'y  w«ri'  in  inany  plrwrs  hald,  or  covi'ird  unly 

Iwitli  a  thill  ^towth  of  ytdlow  iiiid  pooi  ;'r.ivs.     'I'Im-  iiaiiiri'  of  (Im>  soil  fii* 

jdcrH  It  I'Xiri'iiK'ly  NiiHntptihln  to  ihn  vii'isMluih's  of  th«i  rlirnaln.     Mi'twuMt 

tho  folks,  and   from  ihrir  jiioction  lo  thi'   Itlark  hilh,  the   formaiion  con- 

Uists  of  ill. II I  and  a  soft  nurihy  liini'stoiD',  with  ur;initi<'  sandNtotif.     Such  a 

IbrinalMii  r;innol  ^ivo  riNu  to  a  siirili-  mmI  ;  and,  on  «nir  ri'inrn  in  Sipi«'iii- 

h(>r,  when  the  coimlry  hud  been  walrred  hy  fr«'ipient  rtiiiiN,  ihe  vallny  of 

till'  IMalle  lookml  like  u  ^ardi'ii ;  so  riih  was  the  vrrdiirr  o!   lli»'  Kfiisses, 

and  M)  hiXMiiaiit  flu*  hlooiii  of  ahiindaiii  IIiwits.     'I'Im;  wild  snqr  hi't^ins  to 

make  lis  appiMiaiicc,  and  liniher  is  m»  mmicc  th  iI  we  ^niM^rally  niadf  oni 

fires  of  the  /utis  tie.  luir/if,     With  th«'  exception  of  now  and  then  an  isolated 

tree  or  two,  slandiiii,'  like  a  li^^ht  house  mi   the  nver  hank,  there  is  none 

whal«'V«T  to  he  scf'ii. 

*'  ,/ii/i/  s.    -Diir  road  toilay  was  a  solitary  one  Nou^ame  made  its  appear- 
ance  -iiol  even  a  liiiHulo  or  a  stray  anltdope  ;  and  nothing  occurred  to  hn-ak 
the  monotony  until  ahont  fi  o'clock,  wlirii  (li*>  caravan  made  asiuhl.Mi  halt. 
Tfiere  was  a  uallnpinv  in  of  scoiiis  and  h(M■.^elllen  from  every  side — a  hiir- 
ryiiii,'  to  ami   I'ro   in  noisy  eonrii.sion  ;  rilli-s  were  taken  from  their  cover ; 
bullet  pouches  i3\aimiied  :  in  short,  there  was  thr;  cry  of  «  Indians,'  heard 
ai^'aiii.     I  hid  hecoine  so  much  aeciislome'd  to  these  alarms,  that  now  they 
made  hut  liiiji'  impression  on   me;  ;iiid    hefoie   I  had  lime  to  hecome  fx- 
citeil,  the  new  comers  were  ascertaiip'd  id  he  whites.     It  was  a  laii^i;  parly 
of  traders  and  trappers,  conducted  hy  Mr.  Ilridi^er,  a  man  we'll  known  in 
the  history  of  the  country.     As  the  sun  was  low,  and  there  was  a  fine  grass 
patch  not  far  ahead,  they  turned   hae!;   and  encniiped  for  the  nrjlit  willi 
us.     Mr.  Mrid^er  was  invited   to  supper;  and,  alter   ilie   ////>/«  rlolh  wa'i 
removed,  we  listened  with  eaj»er  interest  to  an  account  of  their  adventures. 
What  they  had  mot,  we  would  he  likely  to  eiiitoimter;  the  chanciis  which 
had  hefalleii  lliein,  would  nrohahly  leippen   to   us  ;  and  W(!   looked   upon 
their  life  as  a  jtielure  of  OP*  own.     lie  informed  us  that  the  condition  of 
the  country  had   hei^ome  (JXceedill^ly  daiiL,'erous.     'V\w.   Sioux,  who   had 
been  badly  (hspo.sed,  had  broken  out  inio  open  hi^lility,arid  in  the  preced- 
ing autumn  his  party  had  encountered  them  m  a  severe  etii/agenient,  in 
which  a  niunher  of  lives   had   fiec.ii   lost  on   holh  .sides.     Miiited  with  the 
Cheyenne  and  (iros  Ventre  Indians,  they  were  scouring  tiie  upper  country 
in  war  parties  of  great  force,  and  were  at  this  time  in  tlie  neighborhood  of 
the   /itd  Unites,  a  famous  landmark,  which  was  directly  on  our  path. 
They  had  declared  war  upon  every  living  thing  which  sliould  be  found 
westward  of  that  point  ;  though  their  main  object  was  lo  attack  a  large 
cain[)  of  whites  and  Snake  Indians,  who  had  a  rendezvous  in  the  Sweet 
Water  valley.     Availing  himself  of  his  intimate  knowledge  of  tlie  country, 
he  had  reached  Laramie  by  an  unusual  route  through  the  Black  hills,  and 
avoided  coming  into  contact  with   any  of  the  scattered  parties.     Thie  gen- 
tleman offered  Ids  services  to  accompany  us  so  far  as  tlie  head  of  the  Sweet 
Water ;  but  the  absence  of  our  leader,  which  was  deeply  regretted  by  us 
cU,  rendered  it  impossible  for  us  to  enter  upon  such  arrangement.     In  a 
Camp  consisting  of  nieti  whose  lives  had  been  spent  in  this,  country,  I  ex- 
pected to  find  every  one  prepared  for  occurrences  of  this  nature;  but,  to 


38 


CAPT.  FKEMON'l'H  NARRATIVE. 


[1848. 


i, 


mi 


my  great  surprise,  I  fourxl,  on  the  contrary,  thai  this  news  had  thrown 
them  all  into  the  greatest  coiisteriialion ;  and,  on  every  side,  I  heard  only 
one  exclamation, '  //  n\)j  aura  jms  <1e  vie  pour  nous.'  All  the  night,  scat- 
tered groups  were  assembled  aronml  the  fires,  smoking  their  pipes,  and 
listening  with  the  greatest  I'liutTMoss  to  exaggerated  details  of  Indian  hos- 
tilities; and  in  the  morning  I  lound  the  camp  dispirited,  and  agitated  by 
a  variety  of  confhcting  opinions.  A  majority  of  the  people  wore  strongly 
disposed  to  return  ;  bnt  ("lament  Ijambcrt,  with  some  five  or  six  others, 
professed  their  determination  to  follow  '  ir.  Freii:ont  to  the  utf(M'most  limit 
of  his  journey.  The  others  yielded  to  their  remonstrances,  and,  some- 
what asliamed  of  their  cowardice,  concluded  t^)  advance  at  least  so  far  as 
Laramie  fork,  eastward  of  which  they  were  aware  no  danger  was  to  be 
apprehended.  Notwithstanding  the  confusion  and  excitement,  we  were 
very  early  on  the  road,  as  ihe  days  were  extremely  hot.  and  we  wore 
anxious  to  profit  by  the  freshness  of  the  morning,  'riic  soft  marly  form- 
ation, over  which  we  were  now  journeying,  Irequently  oilers  to  the  trav- 
eller views  of  remarkable  and  picturesque  beauty.  To  several  of  these 
localities,  where  the  winds  ami  tiie  rain  have  worked  the  bluffs  into 
curious  shapes,  the  voyageurs  have  given  names  according  to  some  fan- 
cied resemblance.  One  of  these,  culled  the  Court-house,  we  passed  about 
six  miles  from  our  encampment  of  last  night,  and  toward  noc.!<  came  in 
sight  of  the  celebrated  Chimnei/  rock.  It  looks,  at  this  distance  of  about 
thirty  miles,  like  what  it  is  called — the  long  chimney  of  a  steam  factory  es- 
tablishment, or  a  shot  tower  in  Haltimore.  Nothing  occurred  to  interrupt 
the  quiet  of  the  day,  and  we  eticamped  on  the  river,  after  a  march  of  twen- 
ty-four miles.  Buifulo  had  become  very  scarce,  and  but  one  cow  had  been 
killed,  of  which  the  meat  had  been  cut  into  thin  slices,  and  luuig  around 
the  carts  to  dry. 

'■'■July  10. — We  continued  along  the  same  fine  plainly  beaten  road, 
which  the  smooth  surface  of  the  country  afforded  us,  for  a  distance  of  six 
hundred  and  thirty  miies,  from  the  frontiers  of  Missouri  to  the  Laramie  fork. 
In  the  course  of  the  day  we  met  some  whiles,  who  were  following  along 
in  the  train  of  Mr.  Bridger ;  and,  after  a  day's  journey  of  twenty-four 
miles,  encamped  about  snnse*  at  the  Chimney  rock.  It  consists  of  marl 
and  earthy  limestone,  and  the  weather  is  rapidly  diminishing  its  height, 
which  is  now  not  more  than  two  hundred  feet  above  the  river.  Travel- 
ers who  visited  it  some  years  since  placed  its  height  at  upwards  of  five 
Imndred  feet. 

'■'■July  \\. — The  valley  of  Mic  North  fork  is  of  a  variable  breadth,  from 
one  to  four,  and  sometimes  six  miles.  Fifteen  n^iles  from  tfie  Chimney 
rock  we  reached  one  of  those  places  where  the  river  strikes  the  bluffs, 
and  forces  the  road  to  make  a  considerable  circuit  over  the  uplands. 
This  presented  an  escarpnicnt  on  the  river  of  about  mtie  hunUi  ?d  yards 
in  length,  and  is  familiarly  known  as  Scott's  bluffs.  We  had  made  a 
journey  of  thirty  miles  before  we  again  struck  the  river,  at  a  place  where 
some  scanty  grass  afforded  an  insufficient  pasturage  to  our  animals. 
About  twenty  miles  from  the  Chimney  rock  we  had  found  a  very  beau- 
tiful spring  of  excellent  and  cold  water ;  but  it  was  in  such  a  deep  ravine, 
and  so  small,  that  the  animals  could  not  profit  by  it,  and  we  therefore 
halted  only  a  few  minutes,  and  found  a  resting  place  ten  miles  fuiuier 
on.    The  plain  between  Scott's   birjfs   and   Chimney  rock  was   almost 


n 


^vs  had  thrown 
Je,  I  heard  only 

the  night,  scat- 
ihcir  pipes,  and 
s  ol"  Itidiuii  hos- 
\nd  iigituted  by 
.0  wore  stroiK^ly 
e  or  six  olhors, 
:  ntterniosl  Hrnit 
cos,  aiid.  some- 
It  least  so  fur  as 
Dger  was  to  be 
anient,  \ve  were 
,  and  we  virore 
oft  marly  form- 
ers to  the  trav- 
everal  of  these 

the  bluffs  into 
g  to  some  fan- 
re  passed  about 

nocLi  came  in 
istance  of  about 
team  factory  es- 
red  to  interrupt 
march  of  twen- 
e  cov  liad  been 
d  liiuig  around 

f  beaten  road, 
distance  of  six 
3  Laramie  fork. 
)llowing  along 
of  twenty-four 
insists  of  marl 
ling  its  height, 
river.  Travel- 
nvards  of  five 

breadth,  from 
tlie  Chimney 
kes  the  bluffs, 
the  uplands, 
nnicii  ^d  yards 
had  made  a 
place  M'-here 
our  animals, 
a  very  beau- 
deep  ravine, 
we  therefore 
miles  fuither 
was  almost 


i^2.^  CAPT.  KKEMONT'S  NAHKATl\'i:.  ff^ 

Bntirely  covered  with  drift  wood,  consisting  principally  of  cedar,  which, 
re  were  informed,  liad  been  supplied  from  the  Black  hills,  in  a  liood  five 
)r  SIX  years  since. 
^  July  12. — Nino  milfs  from  our  encampment  of  yosit-rday  we  crossed 
[orse  creek,  a  shallow  stieam  of  clear  water,  about  seventy  yards  wide, 
falling  into  the  Platte  on  tin;  righ*  bank.  It  was  lightly  limbered,  and 
jreat  quantities  of  drift  wood  were  piled  up  on  the  banks,  a[)pearing  to  be 
supplied  by  the  creek  IVoiii  above.  Afttr  a  jouruffy  o(  twenty-six  miles, 
re  encamped  on  a  rich  bottom,  which  alfordcd  fine  grass  to  our  animals. 
Buffalo  have  entirely  disap|)eared,  and  we  live  now  upon  the  dried  meat, 
wiiich  is  excceditigly  poor  food.  The  marl  and  eartliy  limestone,  which 
constituted  the  formation  for  several  days  past,  had  changed  during  the 
day  into  a  com[)act  while  or  grayish  white  liiaestoiie,  sometimes  contain- 
ing hornstone  ;  and  at  the  ])lace  of  our  encampment  this  evening,  some 
strata  in  the  river  hills  crop|) -d  out  to  the  lieight  of  thirty  or  forty  feet, 
consisting  of  a  fitie-graintd  granitic  sandstone;  one  of  the  strala  closely 
resembling  gneiss. 

^^  July  13. — To-day,  about  4  o'clock,  we  reached  Fort  Laramie,  where 
we  were  cordially  received;  we  pitched  our  camp  a  little  above  the  fort, 
on  the  bank  of  J^aramie  river,  in  which  the  pure  and  clear  water  of  the 
mountain  stream  looked  refreshingly  coo',  and  made  a  pleasant  contrast  to 
the  muddy,  yellow  waters  of  the  Platte." 

I  walked  up  to  visii  our  friends  at  the  fort,  which  is  a  qjadrangular 
structure,  built  of  clay,  after  the  fashion  of  the  iMexicans,  vviio  are  gene- 
rally employed  in  building  thetn.  The  walls  aie  about  fifteen  feet  high, 
surmounted  wiMi  a  wooden  palisade,  and  form  a  portion  of  ranges  of 
houses,  which  entirely  surround  a  yard  of  about  one  hundred  and  thirty 
feet  square.  Livery  apartment  has  its  door  ar.u  wiiulow — all,  of  course, 
opening  on  the  inside.  There  are  two  entrances,  op^)ositc  each  other,  and 
midway  the  wall,  one  of  which  is  a  large  and  public  entrance  :  the  other 
smaller  and  more  private — n  sort  of  postern  gate.  Over  the  great  entrance 
is  a  square  tower  with  loopholes,  and,  like  the  rest  of  the  work,  built  of 
earth.  At  two  of  the  angles,  and  diagonally  opposite  each  other,  are  large 
squpre  bastions,  so  arranged  as  to  sweep  the  four  faces  of  the  walls. 

This  post  belongs  to  the  American  Fur  Company,  and,  at  the  time  of  our 
visit,  was  in  charge  of  Mr.  15ou  Jeau.  Two  of  tlie  com|)aiiy's  clerks,  Messrs. 
Galpin  and  Kellogg,  were  with  !-.im,  and  he  had  in  the  fort  about  sixteen 
men.  As  usual,  these  had  found  wives  among  the  Indian  squaws;  and, 
with  the  usual  accompaniment  of  children,  the  place  had  (juiie  a  populous 
appearance.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say.  that  the  object  of  the  establish- 
ment is  trade  with  the  neighboring  tribes,  who,  in  the  course  of  the  year, 
generally  irmke  two  or  three  visits  to  tlie  fort.  In  addition  to  this,  traders, 
wun  a  i,maTi  outfit,  are  constantly  kept  amongst  them.  The  articles  of 
*rade  consist,  on  the  one  side,  almost  entirely  of  buffalo  robes;  and,  on  the 
other,  of  blankets,  calicoes,  guns,  powder,  and  lead,  with  such  cheap  or- 
naments as  glass  beads,  looking-glasses,  rings,  vermilion  for  painting,  to- 
bacco, and  principally,  and  in  spite  of  the  prohibition,  of  spirits,  brought 
into  the  country  in  the  form  of  i.lcohol,  and  diluted  v.Mlh  water  before 
sold.  While  mentioning  this  fact,  it  is  but  justice  to  the  American  Fur 
Company  to  state,  that,  throughout  the  country,  I  have  always  found 
them  strenuously  opposed  to  the  introduction  of  spirituon    liquors.     But, 


m 


40 


("APT.    FRKMO.NT'.S  NAKKA'IIN  K. 


[1842. 


1 

,  -U. 

! 

•  ! 

I 

«ri: 

li 


ill  fho  prosciil  sfalo  of  iliiiis^s,  when  tlio  ooniUry  i"<  snpplitHl  with  alcohol, 
when  a  kri;  o[  it  will  purcliase  from  an  Indian  tivcry  lliiiii^lu!  possesses — 
Iiis  I'nrs,  Ins  lodge,  Ins  liors(!s,  and  ovcii  lii.s  wife  and  cIiiMren — and  when 
an^  vaijahond  wlio  has  iiionoy  onoiii;h  to  pnrchase  a  innio  can  go  into  a 
villag«!  and  tradn  ai:aiiisl  llunn  snccossfnily,  willioiit  withdrawing  entirely 
iVoni  the  trade,  it  is  impossible  for  them  to  di^  oiitinne  its  nse.  In  their 
oj)position  to  this  pra'Mice,  the  company  is  snsiaiiied,  not  only  by  theirj 
oM'^'ation  to  the  laws  of  the  conntry  and  the  welfare  of  the  Indians,  hut 
clearly  also,  on  groimds  of  jxilicy  ;  for,  with  heavy  inid  (expensive  outfits, 
they  contend  at  manifestly  great  disadvantage  airaiiist  the  numerous  inde- 
pendent and  unlicensed  traders,  wiio  enter  the  country  from  various  ave- 
nues, from  the  United  States  and  from  Mexico.  Iia\'ing  no  other  stock  in 
trade  than  some  kegs  of  li([uor,  which  they  sell  at  the  modest  price  ol 
tiiirty-six  ('ollars  ])er  gallon.  The  dilfei'ciice  between  the  regular  trader 
and  tlu!  coKrenr  dcs  hois,  (as  the  Freiieli  call  the  itinerant  or  peddling  tra- 
ders,) with  respect  to  the  sale  of  spirits,  is  here,  as  it  always  has  been,  fix- 
ed and  permanent,  and  growing  out  of  the  naiuie  of  tlieii  trade.  The 
regular  trader  looks  ahead,  and  has  an  interest  in  the  preservation  of  the 
Indians,  and  in  the  regular  pursuit  of  their  business,  and  the  preservation 
of  their  arms,  horses, and  every  thing  nccessr.ry  lo  their  fut.ire  and  perma- 
nent success  in  hunting  :  the  coureur  f/cs  hois  has  no  permanent  iriterest, 
and  gels  what  he  can,  and  for  what  he  can,  iVom  every  Indian  he  meets, 
even  at  the  risk  of  disablin;2;  him  from  doing  any  ilimg  moreat  hunting. 

The  fort  had  a  very  cool  and  clean  appearance,  Tlie  great  entrance,  in 
which  I  found  the  genllemen  assembied,  and  which  was  f  ''cd,  and  about 
fifteen  feet  loi<g,  made  a  j)lcasant,  shaded  seat,  tiiroi  .li  the  breeze 

swep:  constantly  ;  lor  this  country  is  famous  for  high  winds.  In  the 
course  of  conversation,  1  learned  the  following  particulars,  which  will  ex- 
plain the  condition  of  the  country:  For  several  years  the  Cheyennos  and 
Sioux  had  gradually  become  more  and  moie  ho'-iiic  to  the  whites,  and 
in  the  latter  part  of  August,  1S41,  had  had  a  railicr  severe  engagement  with 
a  party  of  sixty  men,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Frapp,  of  St.  Louis.  The 
Indians  lost  eight  or  t'  i  warriors,  and  the  whites  had  their  leader  and 
four  men  killed.  This  fight  took  place  on  the  waters  of  Snake  river  ;  and 
it  was  this  party,  on  their  return  under  Mr.  Bridger,  which  had  spread 
so  much  alarm  among  my  people.  In  the  course  of  ihc  spring,  two  other 
small  parties  had  been  cut  off  by  the  Sioux — omc  on  their  return  from  the 
Crow  nation,  and  the  other  among  the  BlacK  hills.  The  emigrants  to 
Oregon  and  Mr.  Hridger's  party  met  here,  a  few  days  before  our  aiiivil. 
Division  and  misunderstandings  had  grown  up  among  them;  tii  '  •"jre 
already  somewhat  disheartened  by  the  fatigue  of  their  long  a;'t(  W'.Il^:  ■ 
some  journey,  and  the  feet  of  their  cattle  had  become  so  much  won  "xs 
to  be  scarcely  able  to  travel.  In  this  situation,  they  were  n<Rt  likely  to 
find  encouragement  in  the  hostile  attitude  of  the  Indians,  and  the  new 
and  unexpected  diiTicnlties  which  sprang  up  b.  "  t  them.  They  were 
told  that  the  country  was  entirely  swept  of  grass,  and  that  few  or  no  bufFa- 
Jo  were  to  be  found  on  their  line  of  route ;  and,  with  their  weakened  ani- 
mals, it  would  be  ini))ossible  for  'hem  to  transport  their  heavy  wagons 
over  the  mountain.  Under  these  circumstances,  they  disposed  of  their 
wagons  and  cattle  at  tlie  forts;  selling  them  at  the  prices  th*^'  ^ad  paid 
in  the  States,  and  taking  in  exchange  coffee  and  sugar  at  one  .jllar  u 
pound,  and  miserable  worn-out  horses,  which  died  before  they  reached 


f  AfT.   FHK  MONT'S  NARK  ATI  VK 


41 


iorl  with  alcohol, 

i,'  ho  possesses — 

Iron — and  when 

lie  can  go  into  a 

Irawing  entirely 

Is  use.     In  their 

►t  only  hy  their 

the  Indians,  hut 

xpcnsive  ontfits. 

ninn.^rous  indo- 

oni  varions  ave- 

lo  other  stock  in 

modest  price  oi 

10  regular  trader 

or  peddling  tra- 

ys  has  heen,  fix- 

eii  trade.     The 

sorvation  of  thi; 

the  preservation 

tne  and  perma- 

nianont  interest, 

ndian  he  meets, 

re  at  Imnting. 

'eat  entrance,  in 

'  'od,  and  ahont 

ti  tiie  breezu 

winds.     In  the 

which  will  ex- 

I!heycnncs  and 

le  whites,  and 

gagenient  with 

St.  Lonis.   The 

eir  leader  and 

alee  river ;  and 

ch  had  spread 

ing,  two  other 

oturn  from  the 

emigrants  to 

ire  onr  -li-nval. 


m ;  to 


.re 


ng  a;'a  \\".t:  ' 
nnch  won  a? 
n*t  likely  to 
and  the  new 
They  were 
IV  or  no  buifa- 
i^eakened  ani- 
leavy  wagons 
ose^l  of  their 
h^^  wad  paid 
oht  -  jl la  r  a 
they  reached 


\e  monntains.     Mr.  Moiidoan  iMfornied  me  that  he  liad   pnrchused  thirty. 

id  the  low(M-  lurl  ri^hty  head  of  fine;  ciillle,  some  of  them  of  dio  Ijiirhani 
eed.     Ml'.  l''ii/i)iitrick,  whose  naiwe  and    liiuli   rcpntiilion  aro  familiar  to 

|i  who  Iniorcst  lh(!nisrlves  in  the   history  of  (liis  country,  had   reached 

laramio,  ill  company  with  Mr.  Ikidgcr;  and  the  omiyraiits  were  h)rtnnate 
ongli  to  oliliiiii  his  services  to  j^iiidc  them  as  far  as  the  Hritish  i)ost  ol 

[ort  ilall,  ahont  two  Imiidrt'd  and   fifty  inihis  hcyoiid  the  Sonlh    Pass  ot' 
momitiiiiis.     'riu;y  had  .slarled  for  this  posf   on   the  -Ith  of  July,  and. 

nmodiaiely  alt(U'  their  departure,  a  war  paily  of  ihroo  hundred  and  fifty 
braves  sal  out  upon  their  trail.  As  their  pr-ncipal  chief  or  partisan  had 
lost  some  relations  in  the  recent  fight,  and  had  sworn  lo  kill  the  first  whites 
on  his  path,  it  was  s!ij)posod  that  their  intention  was  to  attack  the  party, 
should  a  favoiahie  op])ortUiiity  offer;  or,  if  lliey  were  foiled  in  their  prin- 
cipal object  by  the  vigilance  of  Mr.  Fiizpatrick,  content  them.selves  with 
stealing  horses  and  ciiili;igoff  stragglers.  'I'hcsr  h.-id  heen  gone  but  a  few 
days  previous  to  our  arrival. 

The  efre(;t  of  the  eiiL^agement  with  Mr.  Frapp  had  been  greatly  to  irri- 
tate the  hostile  spirit  of  tlio  savages;  and  inniKidiately  snbsecpient  to  that 
event,  the  Gros  Ventr(!  Indians  had  united  with  the  0:;lallahs  and  Chey- 
ennes,  and  taken  thr;  field  in  great  force — so  far  as  I  could  ascertain,  to  the 
amount  of  eight  hundred  lodges.  Their  object  was  to  make  an  attack 
on  a  camp  of  Snake  and  Crow  Indians,  and  u  body  of  about  one  hundred 
whites,  who  had  made  a  rendezvous  somewhere!  in  ti,e  (irecn  river  valley. 
or  on  the  S\ve<;t  Water.  After  spending  soim;  time  in  buffalo  hunting  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Medicine  l^ow  mountain,  they  were  to  cross  over 
to  the  Green  river  waters,  and  return  to  Laramie  [)y  way  of  the  South  Pass 
and  the  Sweet  Water  valley.  According  to  the  calculation  of  the  Indians, 
Mr.  Boudeau  informed  me  they  were  somowhere  near  the  head  of  the 
Sweet  Water.  I  subsequently  learned  that  the  party  led  by  Mr.  Fitzpat- 
rick  were  overtaken  by  their  pursuers  neiir  Kock  Ir:dcpendence,  in  tlie 
valley  of  the  Sweet  VVater;  but  his  skill  and  resolution  saved  them  from 
surprise,  and,  small  as  his  force  was,  they  did  not  venture  to  attack  him 
openly.  Here  they  lost  one  of  their  party  by  an  accident,  and,  continuing 
up  the  valley,  they  came  suddenly  upon  t.ie  hirge  village.  B'rorn  these 
they  met  with  a  doubtful  reception.  Long  residence  and  familiar  acquaint- 
ance had  given  to  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  great  personal  influence  among  them, 
and  a  portion  of  them  were  disposed  to  let  him  })ass  quietly;  but  by  far 
tihe  greater  number  were  inclined  to  hostile  measures  ;  and  the  chiefs  spent 
the  whole  of  one  night,  during  which  they  kept  the  little  parly  in  the  midst 
of  them,  in  council,  debating  the  question  of  attacking  them  the  next  day  : 
but  the  influence  of  "the  Broken  Hand,"  as  they  called  Mr.  Fitzp'itrick. 
(«ne  of  his  hands  having  been  shattered  by  the  bursting  of  a  gun,)  at  length 
prevailed, and  obtained  for  them  an  unmolested  passage;  but  they  sternly 
assured  him  that  this  path  was  no  longer  open,  and  that  any  party  of 
■whites  which  should  hereafter  be  found  upon  it  would  meet  with  certain 
Uestruction.  From  all  that  I  have  been  able  to  learn,  I  have  no  doubt 
that  the  emigrants  owe  their  lives  to  Mr.  Fitzpatrick. 

Thus  it  would  appear  that  the  country  was  swarming  with  scattered 
"War  parties  ;  and  when  I  heard,  during  the  day,  the  various  contradictory 
and  exaggerated  rumors  which  were  incessantly  repeated  to  them,  I  was 
pot  surprised  that  so  much  alarm  prevailed  among  my  men.  Carson,  one 
of  the  best  and  most   experienced   mountainrers,    fully    supported   the 


I 


4'i 


('ATT.   KIlKMONTeJ  NAKKATIVK. 


[164lJ 


'  ^1 


ti , 


ni 
sis 


lit! 


opinion  given  by  Mriducr  of  tlu  tiiingorons  stuto  of  tlie  country,  an 
openly  expr('ss(!(l  his  (•(Hivicijoti  that  wo  nonid  not  (tscipi;  without  som^ 
sharf)  encotnitors  with  ihr  Iiithaiis.  In  nddiiioti  to  this-,  he  iiiadi^  his  w 
and  unioiiir  tho  circ:uiiisiaiic«'s  which  were  constantly  oi'cnrring  to  increase! 
their  alurm,  this  was  tht;  most  inilbrinnate  ;  and  1  I'oinid  that  a  iinrnbe 
ol"  my  parly  had  become  so  much  iniinudated.  that  they  had  reqiiestod  t 
t)e  discharged  at  this  place,  i  chned  to-day  at  Fort  I'latle,  which  ha 
been  mentioned  as  sitnaied  al  the  junction  of  Laramie  riviir  with  the  Ne 
i)raska.  Here  I  iie.ird  a  eonlirmation  of  the  slalenienis  'Swan  al)ovi 
The  party  ol'  warriors,  wliicli  luui  started  a  low  days  siiu'e  on  tlu^  trail  u 
ilie  emi»*rants,  was  e.\|iee|<'d  back  in  fourteen  days,  to  join  tho  village 
with  which  their  families  and  the  old  men  had  reitiained.  The  arrivu  er 
of  llie  latter  was  hourly  expected  ;  and  some  Indians  have  just  come  i 
who  had  left  tluMii  on  the  L;iraiiiio  fork,  about  twenty  mib's  above.  M 
IJissonetle,  one  of  the  traders  belonging  to  Fort  Platie,  nrg(Hl  the  propriety  ai 
of  taking  with  mo  an  interpreter  and  two  or  thret;  old  men  of  the  village:  us 
in  which  case,  Ik;  thought  there  would  b(!  little  or  no  hazard  in  encounter-  in 
inu  any  of  the  war  |)arlii's.  'I'he  principal  danger  was  in  bciing  attacked  en 
Itelbrc  thoy  should  know  wlii>  wc;  were.  wll 

They  iiad  a  confused  idea  ol"  tho  numbers  and  jiowerof  our  people, aii(i  ou 
dreaded  to  bring  upon  themselves  tho  military  force  of  tho  United  States,  an 
This  gentleman,  who  s])ok(!  tlu;  language  lluently,  oll'ered  his  services  to  tio 
ace  'r^pany  me  so  far  as  ilie   Ked   IJuttos.     lie  was  desirous  to  join  the  lai 
!arg'        "  ■  on  its  return,  for  purpos'**'  of  trade,  and  it  would  suit  his  views,  ast 
as  wm.        ay  own,  to  go   with  us  to  the  Huites;  beyond  which  point  it  m^ 
would  be  impossible  to  prevail  on  a  Sioux  to  venture,  ou  account  of  their  rer 
fear  of  the  Crows.     From  Fort  Laramie  to  the  Rod  Hullos,  by  the  ordi-  wa 
nary  road,  is  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles  ;  and,  though  only  on  the  bee 
threshold  of  danger,  it  seemed  better  to  secure  the  services  of  an  inter-  oth 
preter  for  the  partial  distanc(>,  than  to  have  none  at  all.  A! 

So  far  as  frequent  interruption  from  the  Indians  woidd  allow,  we  occii-  ev( 
pied  ourselves  m  making  some  astronomical  calculations,  and  bringing  up  Tl: 
the  general  map  to  this  stage  of  our  journey ;  but  the  tent  was  generally  as 
occupied  by  a  succession  of  our  ceremonious  visiters.  Some  came  for  to 
presents,  and  others  for  information  of  our  object  in  coming  to  the  country:  m\ 
now  and  then,  one  would  dart  up  to  the  tent  on  horseback,  jerk  oft'  his  lifi 
trappings,  and  stand  silently  at  the  door,  holding  his  horse  by  the  halter,  oc 
signifying  his  desire  to  trade.  Occasionally  a  savage  would  stalk  in  with  Tl 
an  invitation  to  a  feast  of  honor,  a  dog  feast,  and  deliberately  sit  down  St 
and  wait  quietly  until  I  was  ready  to  accompany  him.  I  went  to  one ;  ga 
the  women  and  children  were  sitting  outside  the  lodge,  and  we  took  our  ce 
seats  on  buftalo  robes  spread  around.  The  dog  was  in  a  large  pot  over  th 
the  fire,  in  the  middle  of  the  lodge,  and  immediately  on  our  arrival  was  ar 
dished  up  in  large  wooden  bowls,  one  of  which  was  handed  to  each,  dc 
The  flesh  appeared  very  glutinous,  with  something  of  the  flavor  and  ap- 
pearance of  mutton.  Feeling  sometningmove  behind  me,  I  looked  round, 
and  found  that  I  had  taken  my  seat  among  a  litter  of  fat  young  puppies. 
Had  I  been  nice  in  such  matters,  the  prejudices  of  civiUzation  might  have 
interfered  with  my  tranquillity ;  but,  fortunately,  I  am  not  of  delicate 
nerves,  and  continued  quietly  to  empty  my  platter. 

The  weather  was  cloudy  at  evening,  with  a  moderate  south  wind,  and 
the  thermometer  at  6  o'clock  85°.     I  was  disappointed  in  my  hope  of  ob- 


th 
at 

P< 
til 

ei 

ta 
Ij 


[U 

tiie  country,  ant 
i|)<^  vviflioiii  som« 
lir  tiiad*'  his  will 
nirriiii,'  to  iiicroasol 
iikI  liiiil  u  iMirubei 
if  had  ro(]H(!.stc(l  to| 
I'l.'Uic,   which  liaj 
ivcr  with  the  NcJ 
■Ills  uivL'n   abovt 
not'  oil  fhf  trail  o 
)  join   the   villa;,'.- 
iioil.     The  urrivd 
•ive  ju.st  come  i 
iilcs  above.     Mi 
rt,'(Hl  the  propriety 
<'M  of  the  village, 
:aril   in  encounter 
in  being  attackod 

1)1* our  people, and 
ihe  United  States, 
red  his  services  to 
L'sirons  to  join  the 
lid  suit  his  views, 
lid  which  point  it 
account  of  their 
ittes,  by  the  ordi- 
oiiirh  only  on  the 
ices  of  an  inter- 
allow,  we  occu- 
and  bringing  up 
t  was  generally 
Some  came  for 
to  the  country: 
ick,  jerk  oft'  his 
sc  by  the  halter, 
Id  stalk  in  with 
rately  sit  down 
I  went  to  one  ; 
nd  we  took  our 
large  pot  over 
our  arrival  was 
anded  to  each. 
3  ilavor  and  ap- 
I  looked  round, 
young  puppies, 
tion  might  have 
not  of  delicate 

louth  wind,  and 
my  hope  of  ob- 


CAPT.   I'KKMONT'H  N.\HK.\TIVi; 


43 


13.] 

ling  an  observation  of  an  oicnltalion,  which  took  place  about  luidn;  ht. 
^e  moon  brought  with  her  heavy  banks  of  clouds,  through  which  she 
trcoly  made  her  appearanct!  (biiiiiu;  the  night. 

The  morning  of  the  IHth  was  cloudy  and  calm,  the  thernionieter  at  (J 
tiluck  al  (if.  About  )),  with  a  moiieiate  wind  from  the  w(!si,  a  storm  of 
Jn  came  on,  accoippaiiird  by  .sharp  ibnnder  and  liyhliiing,  winch  last«.'d 
font  an  iumr.     During  tli(!  day  ilin  exptjcted  villagt;  arrived,  coii.sisting 

laapally  of  old   men,  women,  and  children.     'I'liey  had  a  considerable 


d    i 


'I'hcir   lodi 


I 


linniher  ot  Ijorses,  and  lar^'^.  Iriio|)s  ol  dogs.  i  ncir  loupes  were  piicliei 
near  the  fort,  and  our  camp  was  ci^iislautly  crowded  wilh  Indians  of  all 
8iB(!s,  from  morning  until  night;  at  which  time  some  of  the  soUkjis  gHU- 
erally  came  I.  drive  them  all  olf  to  the  village.  My  icMit  was  the  only 
)loce  which  liiey  respected.  I!im-(!  rjiily  came  the  ehi(;l's  and  men  of  dis- 
tinction, and  generally  one  of  ilieni  remained  to  drive  away  the  women 
and  children.  The  numenuis  strange  iivstruments,  appli(!d  to  still  stranger 
Uits,  excited  awe  and  admiralion  aiuong  them,  and  those  which  I  used 
in  talking  with  the  sun  and  stars  ihey  looked  upon  with  rs[)ecial  rever- 
ence, as  mysterious  tliinu;;  of  ••  ^real  medicine."  Of  the  three  barometers 
wiiich  I  had  brouifht  with  ine  thus  far  successfully.  I  (oiind  that  two  were 
out  of  order,  and  spent  llu;  1,'reater  ])art  of  the  I  !Uh  in  repairing  them — 
an  oj)eration  of  no  small  dib'itailty  in  the  midst  of  the  incessant  inl(!rrup- 
tions  to  which  I  was  siibjecK-d.  VV(!  had  the  misforluiie  to  break  here  a 
large  thermometer,  graduaU'd  to  show  fifths  of  a  degree,  which  I  used  to 
atcertain  the  tempera'ure  of  boiling  water,  and  with  which  I  had  promised 
Myself  some  interesting  experiments  in  the  mountains.  We  hiid  l)Ut  one 
remaining,  on  which  the  graduation  extended  snlliciently  liigh  ;  and  this 
was  too  small  for  exact  obst'rvations.  During  our  stay  here,  the  men  had 
been  engaged  in  making:  numerous  repairs,  arranging  pack  saddles,  and 
otherwise  prcparini^  for  the  chances  of  a  rough  road  pikI  mountain  truvel. 
All  things  of  (his  nature  being  ready,  1  githered  iheui  aroiuid  mo  in  the 
evening,  and  told  them  that  "  I  had  determined  to  proceed  the  next  day. 
They  were  all  well  armed.  I  had  engaged  the  .services  of  Mr.  Bissonette 
as  interpreter,  and  had  taken,  iiuthe  circumstances,  every  possible  means 
to  insure  our  safety,  in  the  rumors  we  had  heard,  I  believed  there  was 
much  exaggeration,  and  then  they  were  men  accustomed  to  this  kind  of 
life  and  to  the  country ;  and  that  these  were  the  dangers  of  every  day 
occurrence,  and  to  be  expecied  in  the  ordinary  course  of  their  .service. 
They  had  heard  of  the  unsettled  condition  of  the  country  before  leaving 
St.  Louis,  and  thercfoi  ;  could  not  make  it  a  reason  for  breaking  their  en- 
gagements. Still,  I  was  unwilling  to  take  wilh  me,  on  a  service  of  some 
certain  danger,  men  on  whom  I  could  not  rely ;  and  as  I  had  understood 
that  there  were  among  th<.nn  some  who  were  disposed  to  cowardice,  and 
anxious  to  return,  they  had  but  to  come  forward  at  once,  and  state  their 
desire,  and  they  would  be  discharged  with  the  amount  duo  to  them  for 
the  time  they  had  served."  To  their  honor  be  it  said,  there  was  but  one 
an.ong  them  who  had  the  face  to  come  forward  and  avail  himself  of  the 
permission.  I  asked  him  some  few  questions,  in  order  to  expose  him  to 
th3  ridicule  of  the  men,  and  let  him  go.  The  day  after  our  departure,  he 
engaged  himself  to  one  of  the  forts,  and  set  off  with  a  party  for  the  Upper 
Missouri.  I  did  not  think  that  the  .situation  of  the  country  justified  me  in 
taking  our  young  companions,  Messrs.^.  Brant  and  Benton,  along  with  us. 
In  case  of  misfortune,  it  would  have  been  thought,  at  the  least,  an  act  of 


Sir 

m 


!   I*  Win. 


^ 


Ulilffiii 


I* 


iiiii 


w 


44  ('APT.   KKKMONT'H  NAHKATIVi:.  [igJ 

great  imp)  lul'MiCf' ;  and  t}ierofc)r«\  thoiii^h  r(  Incfaiilly,  I  diitcrmined  to  Icai 
them.      Kaiulolpli  had  hi;<Mi  th(5  Hlb  of  the  ramp,  and  the  ^^ petit  irarfon] 
was  much  irirrcitcd  hy  the  men,  to  whom  his  hiioyant  spirits  had  ulFordej 
great  anui.stunent.     Thoy  all,  however.  ai.M-ee(l  in  iho  propriety  of  leavim 
him  .ii  tlie  fort,  hocausc.  as  they  «aid,  he  niiirht  cost  the  livesof  some  of  i||| 
njen  in  a  iight  willi  the  Indianv. 

'/ii/ij  -1- — A  portion  of  our  l)agL'a£;e,  with  our  field  notes  and  observ:i 
tions,  and  several  instrumants,  were  left  at  the  fort.     One  of  the  j^enileiiiei 


Mr.   (< 


)d  to  ob> 


th 


ir.   (fai[)Ui,  t(iok  charge  ot  a   l:)ar(»mt'if'i',  wnicli   lie  engagea  to  oDsen 

during  my  absence;  and  I  intrusted  t«»  Uantlolph,  by  way  of  occupatio' 

the  reL'idar  winding  up  of  two  of  my  chronometers,  which  were  amoiigtl 

instruments  lei't.     Our  observations  showed  that  the  chronometer  which 

retained  I'or  the  continuation  of  our  voyage  had  preserved  its  rate  in  a  nxi 

satisfactory  maimer.     As  deduced  from  it.  the  longitude  of  Fort  Laramie 

7/j.  or  ar.iuul  tVom  lunar  distance  l/i.  01'  2\)";  giving  for  the  adopti  in 

longitude  104*^  47'  43".     Comparing  the  barometrical  observatiotis  mad  ^I 

during  our  stay  here,  with  those  of  Dr.  G.  Kiigelman  at  St.  Louis,  we  fi 

for  the  elevation  of  the  fort  above  the  (iulf  of  Mexico  4,470  feet.     Th  be 

winter  chmate  here  is  remarkably  mild  for  the  latitude;  but  rainy  weatln  ^a 

is  frequent,  and  the  plnce  is  celebrated  for  winds,  of  which  the  prevailiii,  ^ 

one  is  west.     An  east  wind  in  summer,  and  a  south  wind  in  winter,  ar 

said  to  be  always  accompanied  with  rain. 

We  were  ready  to  depart;  the  tents  wore  striick,  the  mules  geared  Uj  ^'^ 

and  our  horses  saddled,  and  we  walked  up  to  the  fort  to  take  the  stirrvj  "* 

cvp  with  our  friends  in  an  excellent  home-brewed  preparation.     Will 

thus  pleasantly  engaged,  .seated  in  ono  of  tlie  liule  cool  chambers,  at  tli 

door  of  which  a  man  had  been  stationed  to  prevent  all  intrusion  from  tli 

Indians,  a  number  of  nl\efs,  several  of  them  powerful  fine-looking  mei  ?" 

forced  their  way  into  the  room  in  spite  of  all  opposition.     Handing  me  lli  ';'" 

following  letter,  thev  took  their  seats  in  silence  :  ^*^ 

no 

"  Four  Platte,  Juillet  I,  1842.    ^Y, 

"Mvi.  Fremont  :  Les  ches  s'etant  as?embles  presentement  me  diseii  .u 
de  vous  avertir  de  ne  point  vous  mettre  en  route,  avant  que  le  parti  d 
jeunes  gens,  qui  est  en  dehors,  soient  de  retour.     De  plus,  ils  me  disen  .l 
qu'ils  sont  trc   certains   qu'ils    feront    feu  a  la  premiere  rencontre.     11>    .. 
doivent  otre  de  retour  dans  sept  i\  huit  jours.     Excusez  si  je  vous  fais  co 
observations,  mais  il  me  semble  qu'il  est  mon  devoir  de  vous  avertir  di  J^^ 
danger.     MOme  de  plus,  les  chefs  sont  les  porteurs  de  ce  billet,  qui  vou 
defendent  de  partir  avant  le  retour  des  guerriers. 
"  Je  suis  votre  obeissant  serviteur, 

"JOSEPH  IHSSONETTE, 

"  Par  L.  B.  CHARTRAIN. 


thi 
fir 


inf 

W8 

an 


"  Les  noms  de  quelques  chefs. — Le  Chapeau  de  Loutre,  le  Casseur  de 
Fleches,  la  Nuit  Noir,  la  Queue  de  Bocuf." 

[Translation.] 

"Fort  Platte,  July  1,  1842. 

"Mr.  Fremont:  The  chiefs,  having  assembled  in  council,  have   just 
told  me  to  warn  you  not  to  set  out  before  the  party  of  young  men  which 


w< 
sa 

W( 

sn 
B( 
fei 
th 
th 
us 
sa 
te 

^^ 

CG 


(•APT.   FRi: MONT'S  iXAUK ATIVK. 


45 


tlctcrmined  to  lea? 

tlio  '^  petit  gargoA 

spirits  had  a/FordeJ 

iropricty  of  leavin] 

livfsot'somooftlij 

notes  and  oI)nervJ 
it>  of  the  i^oniloniei] 
rigagod  io  obsorv 
vay  of  occupation 
ich  were  amoiin;tl 
irononieter  which 
cd  its  rate  in  a  mo 
!  of  Fort  Laramie 
ing  for  the  adopli 
observations  mad 
;  St.  Louis,  we  fm 
;o  4,470  feet.     Tli 
I  but  rainy  weatlit 
hich  the  prevailin, 
nm\  in  winter,  rir 

i  mules  geared  uj 
0  take  the  stirrni 
reparation.  Wiii 
)l  chambers,  at  th 
intrusion  from  th 
fine-looking  mei 
Handing  me  th 


Juillet  I,  1842. 

tement  me  diseii 
nt  que  le  parti  d 
plus,  ils  me  diseir 
re  rencontre.  Ih 
i  je  vous  fais  co- 
vous  averdr  di, 
ce  billet,  qui  vou< 


ETTE, 
!HARTRAIN. 

re,  le  Casseur  de 


July  1,  1842. 

uncil,  have   jusi 

ung  men  which 


-low  out  shall  have  returni.'d.  Furthermore,  they  tell  mo  that  ihi^y  are 
Try  sure  they  will  fire  upon  yon  as  soun  as  they  meet  you.  They  are 
pected  l)ack  in  seven  or  eii^lit  d  iVN.  Excuse  me  for  n\ukin%'  theso  ob- 
fvations,  but  it  seems  my  duty  to  warn  you  of  daiiut  r.  Moreover,  the 
jefs  who  prolubit  your  .-eiting  out  before  the  return  of  the  warriors  are 
bearers  of  this  note. 

*'  I  am  your  obcdiont  servant, 

-JOSEPH  HISSONE'ri'E, 

"  Jiy  L.  IJ.  (  llAKTKALN. 
i' 

*•  Samia  of  some,  of  the  chiefs. — The  Otter  Hat,  the  Breaker  of  Arrows, 
the  Black  Night,  the  iJuir.s  Tail." 

After  reading  this.  I  meniioned  its  purport  to  my  companions  ;  and,  see- 
ing that  all  were  fully  possessed  of  its  contents,  one  ol  the  Indians  rose 
up,  and,  having  first  shaken  hands  with  me,  spoke  as  follows  : 

.♦'  Vou  have  come  amoiii,!;  us  at  a  bad  time.  Some  ol'  our  [)Oople  have 
b«en  killed,  and  our  young  nujii.  who  are  gone  to  the  mountains,  are 
eager  to  avenge  the  blooil  of  their  relations,  which  has  been  shed  by  the 
whites.  Our  young  men  aiv^  bad,  and,  if  they  meet  you,  they  will  believe 
that  you  are  carrying  goods  and  amnumition  to  their  'Micmies,  and  will 
fire  upon  you.  You  have  told  us  that  this  will  make  war.  We  know  that 
our  great  father  has  many  soldiers  and  big  guns,  and  we  are  anxious  to 
have  our  lives.  Wo  love  the  whites,  and  are  desirous  of  peace.  Think- 
ing of  all  these  thing.?,  we  have  deiermined  to  keep  you  here  until  our 
warriors  return.  We  arc  glad  to  s<.>e  you  aujong  us.  Our  lather  is  rich, 
and  we  expected  that  you  would  have  brought  prooents  to  u.s — horses,  and 
guns,  and  blankets,  liut  wt;  are  g!ad  to  see  you.  We  look  upon  your 
coming  as  the  light  which  goes  betorc;  the  sun  ;  for  you  will  teli  oui  great 
father  that  you  have  seen  us,  and  that  we  are  naked  and  poor,  and  liave 
nothing  to  eat;  and  he  will  send  us  ail  these  tilings."  He  wa^  followed 
by  the  others,  to  the  same  elloct. 

The  observations  of  the  savaije  appeared  reasonable  ;  but  I  was  aware 
that  they  had  in  view  only  the  present  nbject  of  detaining  me,  and  were 
unwilling  I  should  go  I'urtlier  into  the  country.  In  reply,  I  asked  them, 
through  the  interpretation  df  Mr.  Hondoau,  to  select  two  or  three  of  their 
nnndjer  to  accompany  us  until  we  ^-hoiild  meet  their  people — they  should 
spread  their  robes  in  my  tent  and  eat  at  my  table,  and  on  our  return  I 
would  give  them  presents  in  reward  of  their  services.  They  declined, 
saying  that  there  were  no  youDg  men  left  in  the  village,  and  that  they 
were  too  old  to  travel  so  many  days  on  horseback,  and  preferred  now  to 
smoke  their  pipes  in  the  lodge,  and  let  the  warriors  go  on  the  war  patli. 
Besides,  they  had  no  power  over  the  young  men,  and  were  alVaid  to  inter- 
fere with  them.  In  my  turn  I  addressed  tliem  :  '-You  say  that  you  love 
the  whites;  why  have  you  killed  so  many  already  this  spring?  You  say 
that  you  love  the  whites,  and  are  full  of  many  expressions  of  friendship  to 
Us  ;  but  you  are  not  willing  to  undergo  the  fatigue  of  a  few  days'  ride  to 
save  our  lives.  We  do  not  believe  what  you  have  said,  and  will  not  lis- 
ten to  you.  Whateve.  a  chief  among  us  tells  his  soldiers  to  do,  is  done. 
We  are  the  soldiers  of  ttie  great  chief,  your  father.  He  has  told  us  to 
oome  here  and  s^^e  this  country,  and  all  the   Indians,  his  children.     Why 


Mi 


CAPT.  FKKMONT'M  NAKI{.\TI\  E. 


m 


(    % 


^m 


c 

r' 
r 


[18-41 

should  we  not  s^a?  IJcCoro  wv  camo,  we  IkmhI  ilmt  yoii  !iad  killed  hi 
|)(!o|)le,  juid  (:(!iise(l  to  hu  his  chil  Ireii  ;  hut  wn  ciiim;  aiuong  you  peaceablv| 
lioliiing  out  our  hands.  Now  we  find  that  the  stories  we  heard  are  no 
lies,  and  that  you  are  no  longer  his  Irieiids  and  children.  Wo  have  thrown 
away  our  bodies,  and  will  not  turn  hack.  When  you  told  us  that  yoii^B^ 
young  men  would  l<ill  us,  you  did  not  know  that  our  hearts  were  stroii;! 
and  you  did  not  see  the  ritles  which  my  youu'!?  men  carry  in  their  Iniuh 
We  are  I'ew,  and  you  are  many,  and  ni'iy  kill  us  all;  hut  iliure  will  li<^Ki 
nnich  cryinG:iii  ynur  villages,  lor  many  ot'  your  younur  men  will  stay  lialK 
hind,  and  l(ir_'et  to  return  with  your  warriors  Irom  the  mountains.  I) 
yon  think  that  our  great  chief  will  let  his  soldiers  die,  and  lorget  to  gov. 
their  graves?  IJclore  the  snows  melt  again,  his  warriors  will  sweopawii; 
your  villaL'cs  as  the  fire  does  the  prairie  in  the  autumn.  See!  I  hav 
pulled  down  my  w/iife  lutuses,  and  my  |)eoplc  are  rtuidy  :  when  the  sun 
ton  paces  higher,  we  shall  he  on  the  march.  If  you  have  atiy  thing  to  tc 
us,  you  will  say  it  soon."  I  broke  up  the  conference,  as  I  could  do  noti, 
ifig  with  tllese  people;  and,  being  resolvfid  to  proceed,  nothing  was  to  I 
gained  by  delay.  Accoujpanicd  by  our  hospitable  friends,  we  rolm'ned  i. 
the  camp.  We  had  mounted  our  horses,  and  our  parting  salutations  ha 
been  exchanged,  when  one  of  the  chiets  (the  IJull's  'I'ail)  arrived  to  tf! 
me  that  they  li;id  determined  to  send  a  yotuig  luiin  with  us;  and  if  1 
would  pouit  out  the  place  of  our  evening  camp,  he  should  join  u.s  there 
"  The  young  man  is  poor,"  said  he  ;  "  he  has  no  liorse,  and  expects  you  ti 
give  him  one."  I  described  to  him  the  place  where  I  intended  to  encamji, 
and,  shaking  hands,  in  a  fe.v  minines  we  were  among  the  hills,  and  tlii> 
last  habitation  of  whites  shut  out  from  our  view. 

The  road  led  over  an  interesting  jilatcau  between  tjie  North  fork  of  tl: 
Platte  on  the  right,  and  Laramie  river  on  the  left.  At  the  distance  of  tei 
miles  from  the  fbit,  we  entered  the  sandy  bed  of  a  creek,  a  kind  of  defile 
shaded  by  precipitous  rocks,  down  which  we  wound  our  way  for  severa 
hundred  yards,  to  a  place  where,  on  the  left  bank,  a  very  large  spriii: 
gushes  Willi  considerable  noise  and  force  out  of  the  liini-stonc  rock.  It  i> 
called  ''the  Warm  Spring,"  and  furnishes  to  the  hitherto  dry  bed  of  tli" 
creek  a  considerable  rivulet.  On  the  opposite  side,  a  little  below  the 
spring,  is  a  lofty  limestone  escarpment,  jxutially  shaded  by  a  grove  o; 
large  trees,  whose  green  foliage,  in  contrast  with  the  whiteness  of  the  rock, 
renders  this  a  picturesque  locality.  The  rock  is  fossiliferous,  and, so  fara^ 
I  was  able  to  determine  the  character  of  the  fossils,  belongs  to  the  carbonil- 
erous  limestone  of  tlie  Missouri  river,  and  is  probably  the  western  limit  oi 
that  formation,  lieyoiid  this  point  I  met  with  no  fossils  of  any  descrip- 
tion. 

I  was  desirous  to  visit  the  Platte  near  the  point  where  it  leaves  tin; 
Black  hills,  and  therefore  followed  this  stream,  for  two  or  three  miles,  to 
the  mouth  ;  where  I  encamped  on  a  spot  which  afforded  good  grass  and 
prtle  {egnlf!e/um)  for  our  animals.  Our  tents  having  been  found  too  thin 
to  protect  ourselves  and  the  instruments  from  the  rains,  which  in  this 
elevated  country  are  attended  with  cold  and  unpleasant  weather,  I  hatl 
procured  from  the  Indians  at  Laramie  a  tolerably  large  lodge,  about  eigh- 
teen feet  in  diameter,  and  twenty  feet  in  height.  Such  a  lodge,  when 
properly  pitched,  is,  from  its  conical  form,  almost  perfectly  secure  againsr 
the  violent  winds  which  are  frequent  in  this  region,  and,  with  a  fire  in  the 
centre,  is  a  dry  and  warm  shelter  in  bad  weather.     I3y  raising  the  lower 


[1841 

u  !ind  killed  hJ 
ig  you  peaceably! 
'0  hoard  are  ric 
Wo  |j;ive  throwj 
)l(l  us  tliut  yuiiJ 
iris  were  .stroiiM 
'   in  their  h-viulj 
III  ihur»j  will  ijH 
cu  will  stay  I).] 
iriountaiiis.     1)1 
I  lorget  to  covi 
will  sweep  avv;i, 
n.     See  !  I  hav 

when  the  sun 
'  any  thiui;  to  ic 
I  could  do  noli. 
)lhmg  was  to  I 
s,  we  returned  i 

salutations  ha 
)  arrived  to  tci 
ith  us;  and  it'  1 
Id  join  us  there 
id  expects  you  t( 
nded  to  encamp, 
e  liills,  and  tlii^ 

forth  fork  of  th 
distance  of  tei 
kind  of  defik', 
way  for  severa 
ry  large  spriii. 
one  rock.  It  i> 
dry  bed  of  tli^ 
itlle  below  tlic 
by  a  grove  o; 
nessof  the  rock, 
lis,  and,  so  fara> 
to  the  carbonil- 
western  limit  oi 
of  any  descrip- 

it  leaves  the 
three  miles,  to 
ood  grass  and 
found  too  thill 
which  in  this 
weather,  I  had 
ge,  about  eigli- 
a  lodge,  when 
secure  against 
ith  a  fire  in  the 
nng  the  lower 


».] 


CAPr.   FREMONT'S  NARUATIVR. 


47 


Urt,  80  ns  to  permit  tiie  breeze  to  pass  freely,  it  is  converted  info  a  pious- 

Mil  suininer  n'sidciice,  with  the  extraordinary  advantayo  of  being  otuirely 

free  from  inn.Mpiitoe.s,  one  o(  which  I  have  mver  seen  in  an  Indian  lodge. 

''hile  we  were  eiiira^ed  very  nnskilfnlly  ni  (irfciin,'  tins,  the  interpreter, 

^Ir.  Ui.sst)nclte,  arrived,  accompanied  by  the  Indian  and  his  wife.     She 

uighed  at  our  awkwardness,  and  offered  her  as^istanee,  of  which  we  were 

requeiilly  afh'rw.ird  oliligod  to  avail  ourselves,  l.'.;|.ire  the  men  uctpiired 

liitlicieni  experiiiess  to  pitch  it  withouf  dilliciiliy.     From  this  place  wa 

jnd  a  fme   view  of  the  gorge  wher«!  the  IMalle  issucis  from  the  Mlack  hills, 

{hanging  its  character  abruptly  from  a  mountain  stn.'ani  into  a  river  of  tin; 

plains.     III. mediately  around   us  the  valley  of  ih«!   stream   was  tolerably 

|)pen  ;  and  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles,  where  tiie  river  had  eui  its  way 

through  the  hills,  was  the  narrow  cleft,  on  one  side  of  which  a  lofty  preci- 

i)ice  ol'  bright  red  rock  rose  vertically  al)ove  the  low  hills  which  lay  be- 

Jween  us. 

Ju/y  ii2, — In  (lie  morning,  while  breakfast  v;is  being  prepared,  I  visited 
this  place  with  my  favorite  man,  Basil  Lajeimesse.  Entering  so  far  as 
there  was  looting  for  the  mules,  we  disimninted,  and,  tying  our  aniiuals, 
continued  our  way  on  foot.  Like  the  whole  ronntry,  the  scenery  of  the 
river  liad  nnder^one  an  entire  change,  and  was  in  this  place  the  most 
beautiful  I  have  ever  seen.  The  breadih  of  the  stream,  generally  near 
that  of  its  valley,  was  from  two  to  three  hundrcid  leet,  with  a  swift  cur- 
rent, ocfasion.iljy  br<»ken  by  rapids,  and  the  water  [lerfe-ctly  clear.  On 
cither  side  rose  the  red  precipices,  vertical,  and  sometimes  overhanging, 
two  and  four  liimdr(;d  feet  in  heiglii,  crowned  with  green  summits,  on 
which  were  scattered  a  few  pines.  At  the  foot  of  the  rocks  was  the  usual 
iietritns,  formed  of  masses  fallen  from  above.  Among  the  pines  that  grew 
here,  and  on  the  occasional  banks,  were  the  cherry,  {cerosus  virginiaua,) 
currants,  and  grains  de  \nv\\{  {shepherd in  ar^^enfen.)  Viewed  in  the  sun- 
shine of  a  pleasant  morning,  the  scenery  was  of  a  most  .  iriking  and  ro- 
mantic beauty,  which  arose  from  the  pictnresrp  >  disposition  of  the  objects, 
and  the  vivid  contrast  of  colors.  I  thought  with  much  pleasure  of  onr 
approaching  d'sccnt  in  the  canoe  through  sucii  interesnng  places;  and,  in 
the  expeciation  of  being  able  at  that  time  to  give  to  them  a  full  examina- 
tion, did  not  now  dwell  so  much  as  might  have  bofin  desirable  upon  the 
geological  formations  along  ihe  line  of  the  river,  where  they  are  developed 
with  great  clearness.  The  upper  portion  of  the  red  strata  consists  of  very 
compact  clay,  in  which  are  occasionally  seen  imbedded  large  pebbles. 
Below  was  a  stratum  ol  compact  red  sandstone,  changing  a  little  above 
the  river  into  a  very  hard  siliceous  litnestcj /-  There  is  a  !^mall  but  hand- 
soaie  open  prairie  immediately  below  this  place,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
river,  which  would  be  a  good  locality  for  a  military  post.  There  are  some 
open  groves  of  cotton  wood  on  the  Platte.  The  small  stream  which  comes 
in  at  this  place  is  well  timbered  with  pine,  and  good  building  rock  is 
abundant. 

If  it  is  in  contemplation  to  keep  open  the  communications  with  Oregon 
'erritory,  a  show  of  military  force  'i  this  country  is  absolutely  necessary  ■, 
&nd  a  combination  of  advantages  renders  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Lara- 
mie  the  most  suitable  place,  on  the  line  of  the  Platte,  for  the  establishment 
of  a  military  post.  It  is  connected  with  the  mouth  of  the  Plaiie  and  the 
Upper  Missouri  by  excellent  roads,  which  are  in  frequent  use.  and  woMld 


;■» 


I 


4 


■p' 


48 


IJAI'T.  FUEMONTM  \AKIl\TIVE. 


m 


not  111  any  way  mU'rl'To  with    lh<'  rango  ot    tim 


btii: 


Mo 


[184S 

on  wliich  (hJ 


jieigliboriiiK  Itidiuiis  iii:iiiily  ilopctiil  lor  .sii|»|i<irt.  ll  would  rt'inirr  any 
fiosts  on  llic  Lowor  i'laiir  iiiiiii'co.ssary ;  tliu  ontiiiary  (-oiiiiniiiiK.'ulioti  hJ 
twenii  it  and  (Ik;  Missouri  hiiiiLT  MillicitMit  (o  control  tlio  uitrrtii'idiatu  IiiJ 
diatis.  It  would  opcrriti!  (•Il'ctnaliy  to  provtMit  any  siicli  ooalitioiiM  as  arj 
MOW  lornMNl  a^lon^  tin!  (Iros  Vi  iiiri's,  Sioiix,  Cluiyonnt's,  and  oilit;r  ItiditiiH 
and  wouUI  keop  lln!  On-^on  roid  (lirough  tluj  valluy  of  the  Swoul  IVatd 
and  the  Soiitli  Pass  oI'iIh'  inoiuKains  constantly  i>|tor>  It  lii's.it  tlm  iViot  oij 
a  l)rol\un  and  nioinitainoiis  ri'UMr)ii,  :ilonLr  whioli,  hy  llic  "slahlislnno.it 
small  posts  Ml  iIk'  n"'i„'liboilii)oi|  ol   St.  \' 


ram  .s  loit,  on  the  .SoiiMi 


fork 


the  l'lattL>,and  Honl's  fort, on  llic  Arkansisji,  a  lino  of  cointmuiiratioii  wonli 
f>e  forint'd,  by  i?ood  wtrj^on  roads,  with  t)iir  .soiitlmrn  miitivry  posis,  whicL 
would  cnlirniy  roiniiiaiid  thu  mountain  pass(3s,  hold  soiikj  of  ijio  n\o< 
tronhlesoine  iriht.'s  in  clieok,  and  protect  and  faoiiitai*)  oiii  iiittMeoinso  wii 
the  ncighhorins?  Spanish  seltlenu'iits.  The  valleys  of  the  rivers  on  wliici 
they  would  he  situated  art:  fertile;  the  eomifry.  which  supports  iininensi 
herds  ot  hnll'alo,  is  adniirahly  adapted  to  i;ra'/iiiiif ;  ami  herds  of  rattle  inii;,lr 
be  maintained  by  the  posts,  or  ol^iaiiied  Irom  (he  Spanish  country,  whicl; 
already  supplies  a  porlion  of  their  provisions  to  the  trading;  posts  meniioneij 
above. 

Just  as  we  wore  leavim,'  tlio  camp  this  nioniin?,  our  Indian  raino  up, 
and  stated  his  intention  ol  not  proeeedin;^  any  turther  until  he  hid  seen 
the  horse  which  I  int(Mi(Jed  to  give  him.  I  fell  stroiiiily  tempted  to  drivt 
him  out  of  (he  euinp;  but  his  presence  appeared  to  give  contidence  to  tny 
men,  and  the  inter|)retpr  thou-'lit  it  absolutely  necessary.  I  was  there- 
fore obliged  to  do  what  he  reiiuested,  and  pointed  oiU  the  animal,  witli 
which  he  seemed  satisfied,  and  wo  conlinu<>d  our  joiiin  y.  I  had  ima- 
gined (hat  Mr.  IJissoiietic's  long  lesideiice  had  tnade  him  accpiuinled 
with  the  country,  aii(J.  acconling  to  his  advice,  proceecNid  diredly  lorward, 
without  attempting  to  regain  the  usual  road,  lie  ai'ierwanl  inl'ormed  nn' 
that  he  had  rarely  ever  lost  sight  ot  the  fort;  but  tin;  ell'ect  of  the  mistake 
was  to  involve  us  for  a  day  or  two  among  the  hills,  wiiere,  although  we 
lost  no  time,  we  encountered  an  exceedingly  rougli  road. 

'I'o  the  south,  along  oiu*  line  of  march  to-day,  the  main  c;liain  of  the 
lilack  or  Laramie  hills  rises  precipitously,  'I'ime  did  not  permit  me  to 
visit  them;  but,  from  com))arative  information,  the  ridge  is  composed  of 
the  coarse  sandstone  or  conglomerate  hereafter  described.  It  appears  to 
enter  the  region  of  clouds,  which  are  arrested  in  (heir  course,  and  lie  in 
masses  along  the  su.nmits.  An  inverted  cone  of  black  cloud  (cumulus) 
rested  during  all  the  I'oreiioon  on  the  lofty  p<' ik  of  Laramie  mountain, 
which  I  estimated  to  be  about  two  thousand  feet  above  the  tort,  or  six 
thousand  five  hundred  above  the  sea.  We  halted  to  noon  on  the  Fourche 
•/i/wt-r^",  so  called  from  beiiiir  timbered  principally  with  the  Hard  umi're, 
(a  species  of  poplar,)  with  which  the  valley  of  the  little  stream  is  tolerably 
well  wooded,  and  which,  with  large  expansive  summits,  grows  to  the 
height  of  sixty  or  seventy  feet. 

The  bed  of  the  creek  is  sand  and  gravel,  the  water  dispersed  over  the 
broad  bed  in  several  shallow  streairis.  We  found  here,  on  the  right  bank, 
in  the  shade  of  the  trees,  a  fine  spring  of  very  cold  water.  It  will  be  re- 
marked that  I  do  not  mention,  in  this  portion  of  the  journey,  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  air,  sand,  springs,  &c. — an  omission  which  will  be  explained  in 


imF? 


CAIT.  FHKMONTH  NAIIKATIVE. 


V) 


■ilo,  on  which  th, 
voiild  roiidur  an 
)iMiiiiini(;:ifii)ii  !>«; 
I  inifrtMi.'iliate  In 
1  coaiiiiiMiN  us  ari 
ami  uthiir  Itidiaib, 
tln'  Swi'ni  lYiite 
Ill's  ;it  III*!  loot  0 
I  nslahlislimo.'il  d 
ihc  .Soii'h  fork  o: 
tnuiiic.'jK^ii  woiil. 
I'.'iiy  posis,  which 
DMKj  oi  tlio  mosi 
r  iiiforcoiuse  witl, 
<•  livcis  on  whici 
supports  iiiimeiist 
rtlsoCcaltlu  niigli; 
ih  country,  which 
j;  posts  uiemioiid 


Indian  caino  U|i, 
intil  lie  lind  seen 
tuuipiiid  to  dnvi 
jonhdenct;  to  my 
y.  I  was  there, 
tiiu  aniniul,  with 

y.     I   had  inia- 

lini  aoipiaintcd 
Uirerily  lorwai'd, 
ard  iu'Drrned  iiu; 
::f  olihu  mistake 

It',  althouijih  we 

liii  chain  of  the 
n  permit  me  to 

is  composed  of 
It  appears  to 
uise,  and  lie  in 

Olid  (cumulus) 
imie  mountain, 

the  tort,  or  six 
on  the  Fourche 
10  Hard  umbre, 
!am  is  tolerably 
,  grows  to  the 

crsed  over  ihe 
the  right  bank, 
It  will  be  re- 
y,  the  tempera- 
)e  explained  in 


le  courne  of  the  narrative.     In  my  svurch  for  plants,  I  was  well  rowardi'd 
..,  ^ll  this  place. 

\"^j^f  With  th*'  change  in  the  gnolugical  formatinti  on  leaving  Fort  I^uramic, 
he  wholo  face  ot  the  country  iius  cniinly  altered  i(N  iippcurunce.  Ku^t- 
rurd  (d  that  meridian,  the  principal  tdijecls  which  strike  the  eye  of  a  travel- 
jr  art:  iht:  al'sence  of  tnul)er,  and  tlu!  immeiisr  ixpansr  (d' prairie,  covered 
rith  the  v»r  lure  of  rich  grasses,  and  lii^ddy  ad;ipied  ft»r  pasturage.  Wher- 
ver  they  are  nut  dislurhed  hy  iho  vicinity  OC  man,  large  herdn  of  huHulo 
ive  uniujalion  to  this  country.  Weslwuid  of  Laramie  river,  the  region  is 
liandy,  and  appinntly  sterile;  and  the  place  of  the  gra.ss  is  usurped  f)y  the 
rtanisiti  and  tdhcr  odoriferous  jilant.-,  to  whost;  i^rowth  the  sai.dy  soil 
nd  diy  air  of  this  clevateil  region  seem  hi;,dily  f.ivorable. 

One  of  the  prominent  characieriiitics  in  the  face  of  the  country  is  the  ex- 

raordiiiary  ahiindance  of  (he  ar/iT/ti.siiis.     'I'luiy  grow  every  where — on 

ho  hills,  and  over  the  river  bottoms,  in  lomrli.  twist(  d,  wiry  clumps  ;  and, 

herever  ilie  beaten  track  was  left,  Ihey  rundend  the  progress  of  lluj  carls 

ough  and  slow.     As  the  country  increaNcd  in  elevation  on  our  advance 

o  the  west,  iliey  increased  in  size;  and  the  whole  air  is  strongly  impreg- 

laled  and   saturated  with  the  odor  of  eaiupli  >r  and  spirits  ot  turpentine 

Ivhich  bt  I'Mi'^'s  lo  this  plant.     This  climate  has  been  found  very  favorable 

lo  the  restoration  of  health,  pariicnlarly  in  cases  of  consumption  ;  and  pos- 

•ibJy  the  respiration  of  air  so  highly  imprt  ;,'nated  by  aromatic  plants  may 

liave  some  inlluence. 

Our  dried  mi  at  had  given  out,  and  we  began  to  be  in  want  of  food;  but 
one  of  the  hunters  killed  an  antelope  this  evening,  which  afforded  some 
relief,  although  it  did  iioi  go  fur  among  so  many  hungry  men.  At  8  o'clock 
at  uiiihl,  afier  a  march  of  twenty-seven  mili!>,  we  icucliedour  proposed  en- 
campnunt  on  the  Fcr-uChevu/,  or  llorst:  shoe,  creek,  lleri;  we  found 
good  grass,  with  a  great  quantity  o( prfie,  which  furnished  good  food  for 
^ur  tired  animals.  This  creek  is  well  timbered,  principally  with  Hard 
amiird,  and,  widi  tin?  exception  of  \)vat  crei  k,  which  we  had  not  yet  reach- 
.ed,  is  the  largest  atlliiL!il  of  the  right  bank  between  l.aramie  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water. 

July  2'A. — The  present  year  had  been  one  of  unparalleled  drought,  and 
throughout  the  country  the  water  liad  been  almost  dried  up.  Uy  availing 
themselves  of  the  annual  rise,  the  traders  had  invariably  succeeded  in 
carrying  their  furs  to  the  Missouri  ;  but  this  season,  as  has  already  been 
mentioned,  on  both  forks  of  the  Platte  they  had  entirely  failed.  The 
greater  number  of  the  springs,  and  many  of  the  streams,  which  maiic 
halting  places  for  the  voyugeurSf  had  been  dried  up.  Every  where  the  soil 
looked  parched  and  burnt ;  the  scanty  yellow  grass  crisped  under  the  foot, 
and  even  tlie  hardiest  planis  were  destroyed  by  want  of  moisture.  I  think 
it  necessary  to  mention  this  fact,  because  to  the  rapid  evaporation  in  such 
an  elevated  region,  nearly  five  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  almost  wholly 
unprotected  by  timber,  should  be  attributed  much  of  the  sterile  appearance 
of  the  country,  in  the  destruction  of  vegetation,  and  the  numerous  saline 
efflorescences  which  covered  the  ground.  Such  I  afterward  found  to  bo 
the  case. 

I  was  informed  tliat  the  roving  villages  of  Indians  and  travellers  had 

never  met  with  dilliculty  in  finding  an  abuiidauce  of  grass  for  their  horses  ; 

and  now  it  was  after  great  search  that  wo  were  able  to  find  a  scanty  patch 

Oi  grass,  sufficient  to  keep  them  from  sinking  ;  and  in  the  course  of  a  day 

4 


M 


4 


oo 


CArr.  rKHMoNT'H  NARHATIVK. 


[IR41 


"■■i 


|i 


.  «:;'• 


i 


II 


or  twt)  ilii.*y  hf^nn  to  Miliar  vory  nuirli.  W«i  IoiiikI  notu;  ro-dny  nt  noon; 
himI,  III  iliD  I'oiirMi' ol'otir  siN'irrli  on  ilu!  I'laittt,  oiiiiMt  to  u  urovo  of  i;ottuii. 
wo  lil,  wli'TU  MHiii]  Iii>li.iii  villauo  \i.u\  ri'rciiily  ciKriiinixiI.     Hoin^hs  of  tli«| 

ml 
>(ir.sc  1)1 


rottoiiwood   yol  i;ri'rii   i-nvnrd    lib;  mroiiud,  wliult  (hi!    Iiidiai        'iid  c 
down  to  t(!i'd  ilii'ii  lioiii-H  ii|)iMi.     It  is  only  in  t'lc  winter  iliat 


lind  i<>  tliiii  nnvuiM  ol  .Mistaiiiini(  tlu'in  ;  and  tliiir  rvstni  to  it  at  lliis  tinni  wnil 
u  »tril<in.(  oviilnu-u  »»!  lliti  Male  ol  tliu  ronniiy.  Wo  lollowitl  ilniri  xiiinpli'T 
And  liinii'd  onr  liorNcs  mto  a  i^iovo  ol  voting'  poplars,  'rins  li'L'an  to  pr 
sent  l(^*'I^U8  a  vor^  mci tons  i:vil,  lor  on  our  animals  di.'piMidcd  allog«.<ili(>r| 
till*  rinilirr  pr^M'(Mitioi)  ot'onr  jiuii'iiry. 


Sluntly  .iin 


had  li-lt  this  |)!. 


>nt^ 


til' 


camn  ^tiiopinif  ni 
Itii'  iiliii'in  o\  lti(hans.  Wo  tiiriinj  m  iniincdiati'ly  toward  tlio  nvi-r,  winrli 
hero  had  a  suu'p  lii;^h  hank,  win  r.-  wc  lonnrd  with  ihu  rarls  a  very  cIom 
burricadi%  roslnn^  on  thi;  river,  within  which  thu  animals  wuro  »<irongly 
hohhl<*d  and  pirkctid.  'I'lii<  ^iiiis  wcro  dischargrd  and  reloaded,  ami  inun 
thrown  forward,  under  covi  r  of  iIk;  hank,  in  the  chro«;tioii  hy  •  'hich  (Ik 
Indians  woro  expecletl.  Onr  iiiteipii'ier,  who,  with  the  Indian,  had  ;;oin: 
to  mct'l  them,  caim;  in,  in  about  ten  nnniites,  accompanied  hy  two  Sioux, 
'I'huy  look(!d  sulky,  and  we  ctMild  uhtaiii  iVom  thum  only  some  eonfiuscd 
information.  Wo  loariied  that  lliey  hcloii-^'ed  to  the  parly  which  had  hecii 
on  the  trail  of  the  emi^riiits,  whom  they  liad  overtaken  at  Kock  liidepoiid. 
ence,  on  the  Swc;el  Water.  Here  tho  party  had  disai^n;ed,  and  Ciinie  ni;^li 
liylilini;  ttinoiig  them.Nelv(\s.  One  porlmii  were  desirous  of  atlackinu;  the 
whites,  hilt  tho  others  were  opposed  lo  it;  and  finally  they  had  broken  up 
into  small  bands,  and  disper.M'd  over  iht!  country.  Tin,'  i^reutir  portion  ui 
them  had  gone  over  into  the  territory  of  the  Crows,  and  intended  to  retnrii 
by  wav  «>f  the  Wind  river  valley,  m  iIk;  hopu  of  beini»  abk'  to  fall  upon 
some  small  parties  of  (.'row  Indiin.-.  'I'lie  remainder  were  letnniin^  down 
till!  Platte,  in  .-eaitered  parties  ol' ten  and  twenty;  and  those  whom  wu  had 
enconntereel  belojiired  to  those  who  had  advocated  ai  illai  k'  on  the  emi- 
grants. Several  of  the  men  sn'ji;gested  shouting  the  i  tho  spot;  but  I 
promptly  discoimti'iiunced  any  Mich  proceeding.  .  ..  y  fiirllhr  inforimjd 
me  that  bnllalo  were  very  scaiee,  and  liitl(3  or  no  gra^-s  to  b(!  found.  There 
had  been  no  rain,  and  innumerable  quantities  of  grasshoppers  had  destroy- 
ed  the  grass.  This  insi.'Ct  had  been  so  mmiHioiis  since  leaving  Kort  l^a ra- 
mie, that  tho  ground  seemed  alive  with  ihem  ;  and  in  walking,  a  little 
moving  cloud  preceded  onr  foolsti'ps.  This  was  bad  news.  No  grass,  no 
jjullalo — food  for  neither  hoi  so  nor  man.  I  gave  Ihein  some  plugs  of  to- 
bacco, and  they  wont  oil',  ajiparently  well  satisfied  to  be  clear  of  us  ;  for 
my  men  did  not  look  uj)oii  them  very  lovingly,  and  they  glanced  suspi- 
ciously at  our  warlike  preparations,  and  the  littlo  ring  of  rilles  which  sur- 
rounded them.  They  were  evidently  in  a  bad  iiuinor,  and  shot  one  of 
their  hor  cs  when  they  had  left  us  a  short  distance. 

We  continued  our  march,  and,  after  a  journey  of  about  twenty-one  miles, 
encamped  on  the  Platte.  J)nrmg  the  day,  I  had  occasionally  remarked 
among  the  hills  tho  psora/ea  escu/enh/,  the  bread  root  of  the  Indians.  Tho 
Sioux  use  this  root  very  extensively,  and  I  liave  frequently  met  with  it 
among  them,  cut  into  ihin  slices  and  dried.  In  the  course  of  tlio  even- 
ing wo  were  visited  by  six  Indians,  who  told  us  that  a  larger  parly  was  en- 
camped a  few  miles  above.  Astronomical  observations  placed  us  in  lonci- 
tude  101°  59'  59",  and  latitude  42°  ;j9'  25". 

We  made  the  next  day  twenty-two  miles,  and  encamped  on  tlie  right 


fo-ilny  nt  noon; 
grovi)  of  tjotiorJ 

MfMt'.'fl.S  of  tli«| 
Itidiai  ';i(l  (>u|l 
iliat  »iir.so  ill 
I  at  this  tinio  wml 
(■<!  ilii'ir  (  \,'iiiiplt>l 
'Ins  Iklmii  to  |)r<>J 
i(Mi(l*'(l  alloi(<.'llii>r| 

'Hoping'  ill  witlii 

I  tlio  iivtr,  which 

arts  a  vi'ry  ch).si 

Is  wcro  stroiit^ly 

'loaded,  and  ini.ii 

ion  Ity  '.'liicli  till 

iidiaii,  liaU  ^^o||l! 

(i  hy  I  wo  Sioux, 

Y  .soiiitr  ('onrnscd 

'  which  had  htjcu 

:  liociv  liidi>|icii(l- 

1,  and  cainu  ni;^li 

(d'  alliiolvinu;  the 

y  had  hroktMi  up 

,M-catrr  portion  ol 

iti'iidcd  to  return 

ablij  to  tail  upon 

:  letiiriiiiii,'  down 

e  whom  wo  had 

on   Iho  oini- 

tho  spot ;  hut  I 

irlhv.r  intorinod 

loll  lid.    'Vluiw. 

urs  had  destroy- 

/iiiJi;  Fort  I^ara- 

alkini?,  a  little 

No  grass,  no 

no  phii^s  of  to- 

:i«!ar  of  us  ;  for 

1,'laiiced   suspi- 

illes  which  siir- 

ul  shot  one  ol 

'onty-one  miles, 
nally  reniurkod 
e  Indians.  The 
y  met  with  it 
I!  ol  the  cveii- 
r  parly  was  eii- 
eJ  iiM  in  lonci- 


W.) 


r\n'.  ntKMONTH'  NARHA'nVK 


51 


)( 


l-l  on  the  right 


ink  of  tho  PIflttf,  wluMn  a  h.uidiioriif  iiicudow  iillordrd  toliTihly  j^ooil 

[tiHN.     TIdtu  were  iIh'  r<'ni:tinH  of  mi  old  fort  htMi*,  ilirovvn  np  in  Moniit 

dd«Mi  ein«)rK«'iicy,  and  on  ilui  oppoinjio  mdu  was  a  pirinr«'N(pii>  hiiiir  of 


rru'nnou^  siuk.'mIoim* 


I'll)  re  was  .1  hnndsoiii<<  urovc  ii  liitli'  !il)ov««,  and 


fiit<-i«'d  ^ronps  of  iri>(*.s  hdidirrd  Iho  river.     Mnlfalo  m  ide  iln'tr  apptuir- 

Ice  tins  afli'rnoon,  aii<l  the  liimti.Ts  t'unio  in,  shortly  nller  we  had  eni;amp- 

wilh  ihreu  fnin  oow.s.     Tin*  rnt'lit  was  fine,  and  ohservalionn  i(uve  for 

\c  latitude  of  the  camp.  I**"  17'  10". 

hilif  ifi.  -\\\'  made  hnl  ihirteon  tniUiM  this  day,  and  eneauiped  ahoiU 

III!  in  a  plea.sani  urove  on  the  ri«ht  hank.      Low  scaliolds  were  erected, 


lirt»M 


mton  which  the  meat  was  laid,  eiit  up  into  thm  strips,  and  smai 
ijiidled  helow.  Our  ohject  was  to  profit  hy  the  vicinity  (d  the  hiitlalo,  to 
i|y  in  a  stock  ol  provisions  lor  ten  or  fifteen  days.  In  iIm;  course  of  the 
lilernoon  tin;  hnnlers  hroii'.dil  in  live  or  .six  rows,  and  all  Iniids  were 
■'pi  hnsily  (Miiploycd  in  preparing  the  me.'it,  to  the  dr\  in^' of  whieli  tho 
0iard  attended  during'  ihe  iii'.'lit.  Our  people  had  recovered  their  t^aycty, 
a|id  ihe  hiisy  limires  around  llie  hlazini,'  liri!s  uMive  a  piciure.iipie  air  to  the 
(J|nnp.  A  viiry  serious  accident  oicurred  ttiis  niornitiL',  in  the  hreakin^  of 
(Hie  of  the  harometcrs.  These  had  boon  the  ohject  ol  my  eonsianl  solici- 
tude, and,  as  I  had  inteiidi'd  ihein  priiKMpally  for  ni'iuntain  service,  I  had 
wed  iheiu  as  seldom  as  possiMe  ;  taking  them  always  down  at  iiiLrht,  and 
0|i  the  occurrence  of  storms,  in  order  to  lessen  the.  chances  of  heiiii,'  hrokon. 
I  was  reduced  to  one,  a  standard  harometer  of  'I'muLditon's  construction. 
This  I  determined  to  preserve,  if  possible.  Tin;  laliindi;  is  ^'i'  51'  33", 
aiid  hy  a  mean  of  the  lesiilis  from  chronometer  and  Imiar  iJistaiices,  the 
Ijiopted  lonii;itiidi'  ol' this  camp  is  lO.V  .50'  4v5". 

Julij  Sit). — I'^irly  this  mornine:  we  were  attain  in  motion.  We  had  a 
atock  of  provisions  lor  fifteen  dav  >  carefully  stcu'tid  away  in  the  carts,  and 
this  I  resolved  should  only  hcj  encroached  upon  wh(;n  our  rilles  shonlii  fail 
to  |)rocure  us  present  support.  I  determined  to  reach  the  iiKunitaiiis,  if  it 
were  in  any  way  possible.  In  the  mean  time,  hull'alo  were  plenty,  lu  six 
Itiies  from  our  encampment,  (which,  by  way  of  distinction,  we  shall  call 
Dried  Meal  camp,)  we  crosscnl  a  handsome  stnnini,  called  Lit  Fourchc 
JSoinie.  It  is  well  limbered,  and, among  the  llowers  in  bloom  on  its  banks, 
I  remarked  several  uaters. 

Five  miles  further,  we  made  our  noon  halt,  on  the  hanks  of  the  Platte, 
ill  Ihe  shade  of  some  coilonwoods.  There  were  luire,  as  g(!n(!rally  now 
aloniif  the  river,  thickets  of  li'tppopJitiXy  the  i(ritin.s  dc  hd'uj  of  the  country. 
Tliey  were  of  two  kiiuls — one  b(!aring  a  red  berry,  (tho  shvjilicrdid  argen- 
till  of  Nuttall ;}  the  other  a  yellow  berry,  of  which  the  Tartars  arc  said  to 
Uiake  a  kind  of  rob. 

,  By  a  meridian  observation,  tlu)  latitude  of  the  place  was  A'i^  50'  08". 
It  was  my  daily  practice  to  lalce  observations  of  the  sun's  meridian  altitude; 
and  why  they  are  not  given,  will  appear  in  the  sequel.  Eight  miles  further 
we  reached  the  mouth  of  Deer  creek,  where  we  encamped.  Here  was  an 
abundance  of  rich  grass,  and  our  animals  were  compensated  for  past  priva- 
tions. This  stream  was  at  this  time  twenty  feet  broad,  and  well  timbered 
villi  Cottonwood  of  an  uncommon  size.  It  is  the  largest  tributary  of  the 
Platte,  between  the  month  of  tiie  Sweet  Water  and  the  Laramie.  Our  as- 
tronomical observations  irave.  for  the  mouth  of  the  stream  a  longitude  of 
lUG^  OS'  2\",  and  latitude  A'i''  5^'  24". 

July  21. — Nothing  v/orihy  of  mention  occurred  on  this  day  ;  we  trav- 


I 


(APT.  FUEMONT'8  NARRATIVK. 


[1848 


*|f 


"i.n 


i    '  ,  -KB'*'  F*' 

m 


'i\W6  later  tlian  usual,  iiaving  spent  some  fimo  in  scardiintj  for  grass,! 
crossing  and  rccn'ssiiiL'  the  river  before  we  could  fuid  ;i  snMicient  quantilyf 
lor  our  uuiriuilft.      'I'uwurd  dusk,  we  cncanipi'd  iinion<^'  sonje  artemisial 
l)ushes,  two  and  threcj  teet  in  height,  where  some  scuiterr-d  patches  ofl 
short  toii3:h  grass  allorded  a  scanty  supply.     In  crossing,  we  had  occasioiil 
to  obsoive  that  llu!  river  was  frequently  too  deep  to  ho  Corded,  tnough  we| 
always  succeed*  d  i.i  fuid'')g  a  place  wht-re  the  water  did  not  en*?r  the: 
carts.     The  stream  contiiuied  very  clear,  with  two  or  three  huiidr«d  (w,\ 
breadth  of  water,  and  the  sandy  bed  and  banks  were  frequently  cover'j! 
with  large  round  i)ohi)!cs.     We  had  travelled  this  day  iwenly-seven  mile,,! 
The  main  chain  of  the  Black  hills  was  here  only  al  out  seven  miles  u, 
the  south,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  rising  abruptly  to  the  height  oi 
eight  and  twelve  lunidred  feet.     Patches  of  grt'cn  giass  in  the  ravines  on 
the  steep  sides  marked  the  presence  of  springs,  and  the  summits  were  clad 
vith  pines. 

July  28. — In  two  miles  from  our  encampment,  we  reached  the  place 
where  the  regular  road  crosses  the  Platte.  Tliere  was  two  hundred  feet 
breadth  of  water  at  this  time  in  the  bed,  which  has  a  variable  width  ot 
eight  to  fifteen  hundred  feet.  The  channels  were  generally  three  feet  deep, 
and  there  weie  large  ;uig.ilar  roc.';s  on  the  bottom,  which  made  the  ford  in 
some  places  a  little  diilicu't.  Even  3t  its  low  stages,  this  river  cannot  be 
crossed  at  random,  and  this  has  always  been  used  as  the  best  ford.  The 
low  stage  of  tlie  waters  the  present  year  had  made  it  fordable  in  almost  any 
pari  of  its  course,  where  access  could  be  had  to  its  bed. 

For  the  satislaction  of  travellers,  I  will  endeavor  to  give  some  descrip- 
tion of  the  natiue  of  the  road  from  Laramie  to  this  ])oint.  The  nature  of 
the  soil  may  be  inferred  from  its  geological  Ibrmation.  The  limestone  ai 
the  eastern  limit  oi  tins  section  is  succeeded  by  limestone  without  fossils. 
ix  great  variety  of  sandstone,  consisting  principally  of  red  sandstone  and 
fine  conglomerates.  The  red  sandstone  is  argillaceous,  'vitli  compact  white 
gypsum  or  alabaster,  very  beautiful.  The  other  sandstones  are  gr?y,  yel- 
low, and  ferrugiiious,  sometimes  very  coarse.  The  apjiarent  sterility  of 
the  country  must  therefore  be  sought  for  in  other  causes  than  the  nature  of 
the  soil.  The  face  of  the  country  cannot  with  propriety  be  called  hilly.  It 
is  a  succession  of  long  ridges,  made  by  the  numerous  streams  which  come 
down  from  the  neighboring  mountain  range.  The  ridges  have  an  undu- 
lating surface,  with  some  such  appearance  as  the  ocean  presents  in  an  or- 
dinary breeze. 

The  road  which  is  now  gener;  Uy  followed  through  this  region  is  there- 
fore a  very  good  one,  without  any  difficult  ascents  to  overcome.  The 
principal  obstructions  are  near  the  river,  where  the  transient  waters  of 
heavy  rains  have  made  deep  ravines  with  steep  banks,  which  renders  fre- 
quent circuits  necessary.  It  will  be  remembered  that  wagons  pass  this 
road  only  once  or  twice  a  year,  which  is  by  no  means  sufficient  to  break 
i,iown  the  stubborn  root;  of  the  innumerable  artemisia  bushes  A  partial 
absence  of  these  is  often  the  only  indication  of  the  track  ;  and  the  rough- 
ness produced  by  their  roots  in  many  places  gives  the  road  the  character 
of  one  ncAvly  opened  in  a  wooded  country.  This  is  usually  considered  the 
worst  part  of  the  road  east  of  the  mountains;  and,  as  it  passes  through  an 
open  prairie  region,  may  be  much  improved,  so  as  to  avoid  the  greater  part 
.♦"the  inequalities  it  now  presents. 

From  he  mouth  of  the  Kansas  to  t}\c  Green  river  valley,  west  of  the 


CAPT.   FFEMONT'S  NAKUATIV  10. 


53 


archintj  for  grass,! 
sijflicient  quantityj 
If?  some  artemisial 
ittcrod  patches  ofl 
',  we  had  occasioii[ 
Corded,  tnough  wel 
did  not  en^ir  theS 
tree  hiiiid'od  feetf 
rocjiieiitl/  coreredl 
/em V seven  mile.] 
lit  seven  miles  to 
-'  to  the  height  oi 
ill  the  ravines  on 
lunmits  were  clad 

•eached  the  place 
two  hundred  feet 
variable  width  o| 
Iv  three  feet  deep, 
made  the  ford  in 
i  river  cannot  be 
G  best  ford.  The 
ible  in  almost  any 

ve  some  descrip- 
t.  The  nature  of 
riie  limestone  at 
e  without  fossils, 
sandstone  and 

1  compact  white 
les  are  grt'y,  yel- 
aront  sterility  of 

an  the  nature  of 
le  called  hilly.  It 
ims  which  come 

have  an  undu- 

resents  in  an  or- 

region  is  there- 
pvercome.  The 
sient  waters  of 
lich  renders  fre- 
igons  pass  this 
fficient  to  break 
ihes  A  partial 
and  the  rough- 
d  the  chaidcter 
■  considered  the 
ses  through  an 
Lhe  greater  part 

sy,  west  of  the 


-Kky  mountain^^  there  is  no  such  thing  as  a  mountain  road  on  the  line  of 

imraunication. 

We  continued  our  way,  and  four  miles  beyond  the  lord  Indians  were 

iiscovf-cd  again  ;  and  I  halted  while  a  party  were  sent  forward  to  ascertain 
ho  they  were.     In  a  short  time  they  returned,  accompanied  by  a  number 

If  Indians  of  the  O-ilaliah  hand  of  Sioux.  From  them  we  received  some 
iteresting  information.  They  had  formed  part  of  the  great  village,  which 
ey  informed  us  had  broketj  up,  and  was  on  its  way  home.     'I  ne  greater 

iart  of  the  village,  iuohuling  tli3  Arapahoes,  Choyennes,  and  Oglallahs, 

lad  crossed  the  Platte  eight  or  ten  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet 
*!Water,  and  wore  now  behind  the  mountains  to  the  south  of  us,  intending 
to  regain  the  Platte  by  way  of  Deer  creek.  Tlitiy  had  taken  this  unusual 
toute  in  search  of  grass  and  game.  They  gave  us  a  very  discouraging 
-|)icture  of  the  coiaitry.  The  great  drought,  and  the  plague  of  grasshop- 
tjpers,  had  swept  it  so  that  scarce  a  blade  of  grass  was  to  be  .seen,  and 
Ihere  was  not  p  buli'alo  to  be  found  in  the  whole  roijion.  Their  people, 
-they  further  said,  had  been  nearly  starved  to  death,  and  we  would  find 
their  road  marked  by  lodges  which  they  had  thrown  away  in  order  to 
move  more  rapidly,  and  by  the  carcasses  of  the  horses  which  they  had  eaten, 
Or  which  had  perished  by  starvation.     Such  was  the  prospect  before  us. 

When  ho  had  fmishcd  the  interpretation  of  the.se  things,  Mr.  Bissonette 
immediately  rode  up  to  me,  and  urgently  advised  that  I  should  entirely 
abandon  the  further  iiroserutioii  of  my  exploration.  "  />f  meilleure  avis 
)qiieJR  pourrais  voiia  dormer  c'est  de  vlrer  de  suited  '■  The  best  advice  I 
fcan  give  you,  is  to  turn  back  at  once."  It  was  his  own  intention  to  re- 
turn, as  ve  had  now  reached  the  point  to  which  lie  had  engaged  to  attend 
me.  In  leply,  I  called  up  my  men,  and  connnunicated  to  them  fully  the 
information  I  had  just  received.  I  then  expressed  to  them  my  fixed  de- 
termination to  proceod  to  the  end  of  the  enterprise  on  which  I  had  been 
sent;  but  as  the  sifnatioti  of  the  country  gave  me  .some  reason  to  appre- 
hend that  it  might  he  attended  with  an  unfortunate  result  to  some  of  us, 
•I  would  leave  it  optional  with  them  to  continue  with  me  or  to  return. 

Among  them  were  sonie  five  or  six  who  I  knew  would  remain.  We 
had  still  ten  days'  provisions;  and,  should  no  game  be  found,  when  this 
stock  was  expetuied,  wo  had  our  horses  and  nmles,  which  we  could  eat 
when  other  means  of  subsistence  failed.  But  not  a  man  Jlinched  from 
the  undertaking.  "  We'll  eat  the  mules,"  said  iiasil  Lajeunesse  ;  and 
thereupon  we  shook  hatids  with  our  interpreter  and  his  Indians,  and 
parted.  With  thf^m  I  sent  back  one  of  my  men,  Dumes.  whom  the  effects 
of  an  old  wound  in  the  leg  rendered  incapable  of  continuing  the  journey 
on  foot,  and  his  horse  seemed  on  the  point  of  giving  out.  Having  re- 
solved to  disencumber  ourselves  immediately  of  every  thing  not  abso- 
lutely necessary  to  our  future  operations,  I  turned  directly  in  tows'd.  the 
river,  and  en'^amped  on  the  left  bank,  a  little  above  the  place  where  our 
council  had  been  held,  and  where  a  thick  grove  of  willows  ottered  a  suit- 
able spot  for  the  object  I  iiad  in  view. 

The  carts  having  been  discharged,  the  covers  and  wheels  were  taken, 
off,  and,  with  the  frames,  carried  into  some  low  places  among  the  willows, 
and  concealed  in  the  dense  foliage  in  such  a  manner  that  the  ffUtter  of  the 

iron  work  might  not  attract  the  observation  of  some  straggling  Indian. 

In  the  sand,  which  had  been  blown  up  into  waves  among  tlie  willows,  a 

large  hole  was  then  dug,  ten  feet  square,  and  six  deep.    In  the  mean  time, 


tl '  %l 

■  i 

■  -i 


» 

»1  !'!■ 


rill 


■'i 


ii  tiP'ii 


ri'i'! 


s> 

!;»■ 

U 

v. 

*i 

I  ■» 

'C 

,> 

fB- 

r-t 

J-til 


r.l  (APT.   FKKMONT'H  NMIUATIVK.  [I84J 

;ill  our  cilccis  iiiwl  hi-cii  sjirriid  out  upon  ilir  i^miiiid,  find  wimtovor  wj 
»l('sii;ii<'d  It)  I'l'  ciiiird  iiloiis,'  Willi  us  M'|i,iial(  d  mid  laid  aside,  and  the  rJ 
niiiiiiin'4  P'M'l  call  icd  lo  lli(>  litdt;  and  i^nrclnlly  I'dvcri'd  ii|i.  Asninclial 
possiMo,  all  li'Mccs  ol'  our  proccfdiii^s  wore  oliliicraird,  and  it  wanfcd  biJ 
n  rain  lo  rcndfr  our  rdr/ir  sulo  hcyond  discovciv.  All  llm  ukmi  woro  \un 
siM  at  work  to  arraip^r  ihc  pjtck  saddles  and  make  np  the  patdts. 

The  day  was   v»'ry   waiin  ninl  oaltn,  and   ilie  sky  eiilir«dy  clear,  exc(!| 
where,  jis  iiMial  aK>ny:  the  sninmils  ol  the  nn»nnl!iiiions  ridtftj  opposite,  ijn 
elonds  l;:»d  cDimrcLialed  in   masses.     Our  lodvM- had   heen   planted,  and, 
aecoinit  ot   il;;:  heal,  the  uroinid   pins  had   hreii   taken  out,  and  the  lowij 
pari  sliuhily  raised.      Near  to  it  was  standinu  ilie  haronieler,  which  swim. 
in  n  tripod  iVaine;  and  within  the  lodu;(\  where  a  small  lir«!  had  hceii  hiiili 
Mr.  I'reiiss  was  otciipu d   in  ohserviii!;  the  lemperalnre  of  hoiliiii;  walci 
At  tins  iiisiant.  and   wiihonl  any   warning;    niilil   11  was  wnliin  fifty  y;u(l^ 
a  violent  i-usl  ol' wind  dashed  di)wn  the  lod<i:e,  hiiryiim;  under  it  Mr.  I'nnis 
and  about  n  do/tni  men,  who  had  attempted  to  k<te|)  it  iVoni  heiiiu;  carrici 
away.      I  stieeeeded  111  savini,'  the  baroineler,  which  the  Iodide  was  carry 
iiig  oil'  with   itscll.  hnl  the  tluinnoiimter  was  hroken.     We  had  no  other 
oi  a  hi^h   L'radiiatioii.  none  of  those   which   remained  i,'<>i"^  ini,'her  thai 
135"^  Fahrenheit.     Oiir  astronomical  ohservations  ^ave  to  this  place,  wliicl 
we  named  ('(ic/ir  camp,  a  loiiifitude  of  !()()''  lis'  i.M»",  latitude  -lii"  5t)'  5A' 
Jult/  2!i.  —  All  our  arrangements  haviiiL!;  been  eompleU'd,  we  left  the  I'li 
campmeiU  ai    7  o'clock   this  morniiiir.     In   this  viciniiy  tluj  ordinary  roai 
leaves  the   I'lalte,  and   crosses  over  lo   the    Sweet   Water  river,  which  r 
strikes  near   Kt.ck    liide|iendence.     Instead   of  jollowin^  this  road,  I  hm 
determined  to  k.'i  p  the  immediate  valley  of  the  l*iail(^  so  far  as  the  nnmll 
of  tlie  Sweet  Water,  in  the  expectation  of  (indniif  belltM-  i^Mass.     To  this  I 
was  further  prompled  by  the  nature  of  toy  instructions.     To  Mr.  Carsoi 
was  assii;ned  the  oilice  of  ijuidc,  as  we  had   now   reached  a  part  of  tlw 
country  with  which,  or  a  great  part  of  which,  long  residence  had  inadi 
him  familiar.      In  a  few  miles  we  reached  iIk;  UimI  linttes,  a  f;imous  land- 
mark in  this  coiniiry,  whose  geological  composition  is  red  sandstone,  liino- 
stone,  and  calcareous  sandstone  and  pniUliiig  stone. 

The  river  here  cuts  its  way  through  a  ridge  ;  on  the  eastern  side  of  i' 
are  the  lot'ty  I'scarpnieiits  of  red  argillaceous  L-andstone,  which  are  called 
the  Red  liuttes.  In  this  passage  the  stream  is  not  much  compressed  01 
pent  up,  there  beiim  a  bank  of  considerable  though  variable  breadth  on 
either  side.  ImnuHJiately  on  entering,  we  discovered  a  band  of  bulfalo 
The  hunters  tailed  to  kill  any  of  them;  the  leading  hunter  being  throwL 
into  a  ravine,  v.'hich  occasioned  some  delay,  and  in  the  mean  time  the 
lierd  clambered  up  the  steep  face  of  the  ridge,  it  is  .-iometimes  wonderful 
to  see  these  apiiarently  clumsy  animals  make  their  way  up  and  down  the 
most  rugged  and  broken  precipices.  We  halted  to  noon  before  we  had 
cleared  this  passage,  at  a  spot  twelve  miles  distant  \xo\\\  CV/c/jecamp,  where 
we  found  an  abundance  of  grass.  So  far,  the  account  of  the  Indians  was 
found  to  be  false.  On  the  banks  were  willow  and  cherry  trees.  The 
cherries  were  not  yet  ripe,  but  in  the  thickets  were  mnnerous  fresh  tracks 
of  the  grizzly  biar,  which  are  very  fond  of  this  fruit.  The  soil  here  is 
red,  the  composiiion  being  derived  from  the  red  sandstone.  About  seven 
miles  brought  us  through  the  ridge,  in  which  the  course  of  the  river  isnordi 
and  south.  Here  the  valley  opens  out  broadly,  and  high  walls  of  the  red 
formation  present  themselves  among  the  hills  to  tlie  east.     We  crossed 


-^1 


nnd  wimtovnr  wii 
il  iisidc,  and  the  n 

I  lip.     An  much  a 
,  .111(1  it  waiWeil  b 
ilm  iiKui  woro  no 
in  piKiks, 
liridy  cicnr,  asrv 
ridi,'!!  opposiir,  (III 

II  pl.'uilcd,  and,  n 
out,  and  (hii  lowi 
t'lcr,  \vhi«;li  swim, 
lin;  Ik'uI  I)o«mi  hiiili 
■  oC  lioiliufr  vvalc! 
wiihin  filly  yard^ 
iid(!r  it  Mr.  I'nuis 
loiM  hriiis^  cariici 

l()dt;o  was  cany 

VV(;  had  no  ()th(!r 

;<>inu:  liii,di(!r  ih;ii 

>  this  place,  whid 

liUido  -jy"  50'  5:i 

^d,  wo  h5rt  tlio  I'll 

Ihc  onhiiary  rorn 

;r  liver,  which  r 

dii.s  road,  I  hiti 

I'iir  as  the  nioial 

i;rass.     To  this  I 

'I'o  Air.  CarscM 

ed  a  part  of  tl 


)42.] 


CAPT.  nJKMoNT's  N  \  i.'i;  \  ri\  K 


. )  ) 


leiice  had  rnadi 

!,  a  t'aiuoiis  land 

sandstone,  hmo. 

Nisiern  side  of  it 
.vhich  are  called 
1  con)pressed  oi 
ahle  breadth  on 
•and  of  bulfalo 
er  being  throwi, 
mean  time  the 
imes  wonderful 
)  and  down  tlie 
before  we  had 
/jeeamp,  whore 
iG  Indians  was 
ly  treea.     The 
nis  fresh  tracks 
'lie  soil  here  ls 
About  seven 
le  river  is  iiordi 
■alls  of  the  red 
.     We  crossed 


Sijre  a  pretty  liMlc  .Tei'k,  an  allhicni  of  ilu;  n^lit  bank-.  It  is  w»dl  iiinl"'!- 
d  will)  I'lftioMxVood  in  this  vicniity,  ami  tin-  absinllic  has  lost  its  shrnb- 
Ike  cliaracler,  and   bcuonics  .small   ncrs 'ix  iiud   ci'dit  feet  m  bright,  iind 


t 


"^Bometiiiirs  ('ii;lii  incln's  in  di;inn'lcr.     Tu'n  or  ilnri!  miltts  ab()V<?  tins  creek 
p  made  our  cneampmeni,  liavmL,'   iravcllcd    to-day   twenty-live  miles. 
iM  aiiniiiils  fared  well  here,  as  iln!r<!  is  an  alunidjuue,  o|' ojass.     Tlu!  river 
rd  IS  iiiiidc  up  (d'  pc'bbh^s,  and  in  the  bank,  at  ilie  |i;vel  of  ihe  water,  is  a 
on^loiiierati!  of  coarse   pe,bbl(!.s  aboiit   lb'!  si/e  of  ostrich  ei/^s,  and  wbicli 
rciiiatkcd  in   the   banks  of  liie   li-iianiie   foik.      Il  is  overlaid  liv  a  soil  of 
\\\i.'(\  clay  and  sand,  six    fi;<'.t  lliicK.      liy  ;isirf)iioinical  observalions,  oni 
|)()siiion  IS  III  longitude   l()(i '  r,\'  ;',:",  and  latitude  -lii"  liH'. 
»    .//////  MO. — Alter  travelling  about  twelve;  miles  this  moriiim^  we  reac.lnid 
fi  plac(!  where  iIk!    Indian    villii.^M-  b;ul   ci(tss"d    t\\r.   river.     Here  were  the 
|)oles  of  (lisc!i.i'<le(l  lodges  and  skeleions  (t|  horses  lying  about.     Mr.  ('arson, 
|lvbo  had  never  Ixmui  higher  up  than  iliis  |iouil  on  the  river,  wiiicli  has  the 
(;liaract(!r  of  being  exceedingly  rng'jed,  and  w.illed  in  by  precijiices  above, 
il'.ouglil  it  advisable;  to  camp  niiar  tins  place,  where  we  wen;  certain  of  ob- 
lainiiig  urass,  and  lo-nK>rrow  make  oni  crossing  amoiiL';  the  rllg^ed  hills  to 
Ihe  Sweet,  \Val(!r  river.     Accordingly  we  turned  back  and  descend<;d  the 
fivtJt  to  an  island  near  by,  which   wa.s  about  twenty  acrfis  in  size,  covered 
Ivilh  a  Inxiiiiant  growth  of  gra.s.s.     The   formation    here  I  found  highly 
interesiiiig.     Iinmediat(!ly  at   this  islami   lla;  iiv(!r   is  again  shut  up  in  the 
jugged  hills,  which  come  down  to  it  from  the  main  ridge  in  a  succession 
l|pf  spurs  three  or  four  hundrc'd   feet  liii^di,  and   alternated   with  green  level 
prdii'illotis  or  meadows,  bordc^reid  on  the  nvcir  banks  with  thickets  oi"  wil- 
low, and  having  many  plants  to  inttirest  the  traveller.     The  island  lies  be- 
tween two  of  these  ridgcjs,  three  or  four  hundred  yards  a{)art,  of  which 
that  on  the  right  bank  is  composed  (;ntir(dy  of  red  argillaceous  sandstone, 
"with  thin  layers  of  iibrous  gypsum.     On   the  Udl   bank,  the  ridge  i>  com- 
posed  entirely  of  siliceous  pudding  stone,   the   pebbles  in   the  numerous 
strata  increasing  in    size   from   the.  top    to   the  bottom,  where  they  are  as 
large  as  a  man's  head.     So  far  as  I  was  able;  to  determine,  these  strata  in- 
-line to  tli<;  northeast,  with  a  dip  'd  ribont  1,0".     This  pudding  stone,  or 
"icongloinerale  formation,  I  was  enabled  to  trace  ilirough  an  extended  range 
of  country,  from  a  few  miles  e     ^  ol  ihe  meridian  of  Fort  Laramie  to  where 
I  found  it  superposed  on  the  granite  of  the   Uocky  mountains,  in  longitude 
109'^  00  .     From  its  a{)pearaiice,  ili<;  mam  chain  of  the  Lmaiiue  mountain 
is  composed  of  this  rock;  and  in  a  miiriM  r  ol'  places  I  I'ound  isolated  hills, 
which  served  to  mark  a  former  level,  which  bad   I  'icn  probably  sweid 
away. 

These  conglomerates  are  very  friable,  and  easily  dec  mposed  ;  and  I 
am  inclined  to  think  this  formation  is  the  source  ir')ui  which  was  derived 
the  great  deposile  of  sand  and  gravel  which  torn.  ,  the  surface  rock  of  the 
prairie  country  west  of  the  Mississi[)pi. 

Crossin;^  the  ridge  of  red  sandstone,  and  traversing  the  Mttle  prairie  which 
lies  to  the  southward  of  it,  we  made  in  the  afternoon  rm  v.xciirsion  to  a  place 
which  we  have  called  the  Hot  Spring  Gate.  This  ;  ice  has  much  the  ap. 
pearance  of  a  gate,  by  which  the  Plalle  passes  through  a  ridge  composed 
of  a  white  and  calcareous  sandstone.  The  length  of  the  passage  is  about 
four  hundred  yards,  with  a  smt  oth  green  prairie  on  either  side.  Through 
this  place,  ihestream  ilows  w  th  a  quiet  current, unbroken  by  any  rapid. 
and  is  about  seventy  yards  wide  between  the  walls,  which  rise  perpen- 


\'<L 


'/I 

f  ■ 


I 


r>(i 


CAPT.   FFiCMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[184S 


F  ■% 


■•5; 


tin 
'  ill 


•licnlarly  from  tlie  wator.     To  that  011  tlin  right  bank,  which  is  the  nwerj 
the  barometer  gave  a  lM'ij;ht  of  three  hmulrcd  and  sixty  feet.     This  pl-^cel 
will  bo  more  particularly  liescribccl  hereafter,  as  we  passeil  through  it  oi, 
our  return. 

We  saw  here  nnmerotis  lierJs  of  mountain  sheep,  and  frequently  hcardl 
he  volley  of  raltlinir  stones  which  aceouipatiied  their  rapid  desfOiit  down) 
the  steep  hills.  This  was  tlu^  first  place  at  which  wo  had  killed  any  o([ 
these  animals  ;  and,  in  coiiscquenre  of  thl«  circmTistaiicc,  atid  of  tlift| 
ubundancc  of  those  sheep  or  j»oats.  (for  they  are  called  by  each  nnme,)  w 
gave  to  our  encampment  tlu;  n;uiie  of  (loat  IsUuid.  Their  llcsh  is  mudi 
este<!med  by  the  hunters,  and  b;is  very  much  tlie  liavor  of  the  Allegany 
mountain  sheep.  !  have  frequtsntly  seen  the  horns  of  this  animal  three 
fe(!t  long  and  seventeen  inches  in  circumference  at  the  base,  weighing 
ele  -en  pounds.  Jiut  two  or  iliri.'O  of  these  were  killed  by  our  party  at 
this  puce,  and  of  these  the  horns  werr  small.  The  us(!  ot  th(\se  horns 
seems  to  be  to  protect  the  animal's  head  in  pitching  down  precipices  to 
avoid  pursuing  wolvc^ —their  only  safety  being  in  places  where  tliey  can- 
not be  followed.  'I'he  bones  are  very  strong  and  solid,  the  marrow  occu- 
pying but  a  very  small  portion  of  the  bone  in  the  leg,  about  the  thickness 
ol  a  rye  straw.  The  hair  is  short,  resembling  the  winter  color  of  our  com- 
mon deer,  which  it  nearly  approaches  in  rize  and  a|  ij.-arance  Except  in 
the  horns,  it  has  no  reseinb!an>e  whatever  to  the  goat.  The  longitude  of 
this  place,  resulting  from  chronometer  and  lunar  distances,  and  an  occulta- 
tion  off  Arietis,  is  107°  13'  JfJ",  and  the  latitude  42^33'  27".  One  of  our 
horses,  which  had  given  out,  we  left  to  receive  strength  on  the  island,,  intend- 
ing to  take  her,  perhaps,  on  our  return. 

Juli/  31. — This  morning  we  left  the  course  of  the  Platte,  to  cross  over 
10  the  Sweet  Water.  Our  way,  for  a  few  miles,  lay  up  the  sandy  bed  of 
a  dry  creek,  in  which  I  found  several  interesting  plants.  J^eaviiig  this,  we 
■wound  ou;  way  to  the  summit  of  the  hills,  of  which  the  peaks  are  here 
eight  hundred  feet  above  the  Platt<>,  b;ire  and  rocky.  A  long  and  gradual 
slope  led  from  these  hills  to  the  Sweet  Water,  which  we  reached  in  fifteen 
miles  from  Goat  Island.  I  made  an  early  encampment  here,  in  order  to 
give  the  himtersan  opportunity  to  procure  a  supply  from  soveml  bands  of 
buffalo,  which  made  tlieir  appearance  in  the  valley  near  by.  The  stream 
here  is  about  sixty  feet  wide,  and  at  this  time  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
deep,  with  a  very  modera     current. 

The  adjoining  prairi  are  snndy,  but  the  immediate  river  bottom  is  a 
good  soil,  which  afforded  an  abundance  of  soft  grten  grass  to  our  horses, 
and  where  I  found  a  variety  of  nif cresting  plants,  which  made  their  ap- 
pearance for  the  first  time.  A  raiii  to-night  made  it  unpleasantly  cold; 
and  there  was  no  tree  hefo,  to  enable  n:-i  to  pitch  our  single  lent,  the  poles 
of  which  had  been  left  ai  Cache  camp.  Wc  had,  therefore,  no  sheltsr 
except  what  was  to  be  found  under  cover  of  the  ahsinthR  bushes,  which 
grev/  in  many  thick  patches,  one  or  two  and  sometimes  three  feet 
high. 

August  1. — The  hunters  went  ahead  tliis  morning,  as  bulTalo  appeared 
tolerably  abundant,  and  I  was  desirous  to  secure  a  small  stock  of  pro- 
visions; and  we  moved  about  seven  miles  up  the  valley,  and  encamped 
one  mile  below  Rock  Independence.  This  is  an  isolated  granite  rock, 
about  six  hundred  and  fifty  yards  lo  g,  and  forty  in  heiglit.  Except  in 
a  depression  of  the  summit,  where  a  little  soil  supports  a  scanty  growth 


0 

n 

4 

t 
a 
a 


CAPT.   FIIKMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


57 


vhich  is  the  nwerJ 
■  i'eot.  This  phcel 
ssed  through  it  oJ 

1  frofincntly  heard 
ipicl  dcsfCiit  (lownl 

had  lvill(!fl  any  o( 
lUicc,  and  of'thfil 
y  each  nnnie,)  we 
heir  flesh  is  much' 
r  of  (he  AHogativ 

(his  atiinial  three 
r.  hasc,  weighing 
1  I'y  our  j)arty  ai 
so  of  tliose  horns 
own  precipices  tn 
?  where  tlicy  can- 
the  marrow  occu- 
)oiu  the  thickness 
3olor  of  onr  com- 
anco.      Except  in 

'I'lic  longitude  of 
3,  and  an  occuha- 
27".  One  of  our 
the  island,,  intend- 


it(e,  to  cross  over 

the  sandy  bed  of 

eaving  this,  we 

e  peaks  are  lieic 

ong  and  gradual 

eachcd  in  fifteen 

icre,  in  order  to 

overal  bands  of 

/■.     Tlie  stream 

eighteen  inches 

vcr  bottom  is  a 
s  to  our  horses, 
made  their  ap- 

easantly  cold; 
)  lent,  tiie  poles 
lOve,  no  shelter 

bushes,  which 
nies  three  feet 

ilt'alo  appeared 
1  stock  of  pro- 
md  encamped 
i  granite  rock, 
It.  Except  in 
scanty  growth 


shrubs,  with  a  solitary  dw.irf  pine,  it  is  cntirelv  hare.     Everywhere 
ithin  siJT  or  eight  feet  of  the  ground,  wjuire  th      intacc  is  sufficiently 
looth,  and  in  some  places  sixty  or  eighty  feet  abovt     lie  rock  is  inscribed 
lith  the  names  of  travellers.     Many  a  name  famous  in  the  history  of  this 
luntry,  and  some  well  known  to  science,  are  to  be  found  mixed  among 
se  of  the  traders  and  of  travellers  for  j)leasure  and  curiosity,  and  of  mis- 
naries  among  the  savages.     Some  of  these  have  b(!en  wa>h(>d  away  by 
to  rain,  but  the  greater  tunnher  arc  still  very  legiblo.     The  position  of 
lis   rock  is  in  longitude  107  '  Oii',  latitude  12°  29'   Mi".     W'r  remained  at 
r  camp  of  August  1st  until  noon  of  tlio  next  day,  occupied  in  drying 
nieaf.     Hv  observation,  the  longitude  of  the  place  is  107*^  25'  23",  latitude 
48°  29'  5(i". 

.«  Aiii^ust  2. — Five  niiles  above  Rock  Independence  we  camo  to  a  place 
#lled  the  Devil's  Gate,  wh(>rc  the  Sweet  Water  cuts  through  the  point  of 
<i granite  ridge.  The  length  of  the  passage  is  about  three  humlred  yards. 
Slid  the  width  thirty-fivo  vards.  The  walls  of  rock  are  vertical,  and  about 
ftur  hundred  feet  in  height;  and  the  stream  m  the  gate  is  almost  entirely 
choked  up  by  masses  which  have  fallen  troiu  above.  In  tlu;  wall,  on  the 
Tight  bank,  is  a  dike  of  1r;ip  ^ock,  cutting  through  a  fine-grained  gray  graii- 
i^-:.  Near  the  point  of  this  ridge  crop  out  some  strata  of  the  valley  forma- 
,iOn,  consisiing  of  a  gravish  micaceous  sandstone,  and  fiuo-grained  con- 
glomerate, and  marl.  We  encamped  eight  miles  above  tiio  Devil's  Gate. 
Ther?  was  no  timber  of  any  kind  on  the  river,  but  good  lires  were  made 
<rf  drift  wood,  aided  by  the  hois  de  vache. 

We  had  to-night  no  shelter  from  the  rain,  which  coninionced  witli 
iqualH  of  wind  abimt  sunset.  The  coi  ntry  hero  is  exceedingly  pic- 
turesque. On  either  side  of  the  valley,  which  is  four  or  five  miles  broad, 
the  mountains  rise  to  the  luiight  of  twelvti  and  fifteen  hundred  or  two 
thousand  feet.  On  the  south  side,  the  range  appear.^  to  be  limbered,  and 
to-night  is  luminous  with  fires — probably  the  work  of  the  Indians,  who 
have  just  passed  through  the  valley.  On  the  north,  brolcen  and  granite 
masses  rise  abruptly  fr(^m  the  green  sward  of  the  river,  terminating  in  a 
line  of  broken  summits.  Except  in  the  crevices  of  the  roclc,  and  here 
and  there  on  a  ledge  or  bench  of  the  mountain,  where  a  few  hardy  pines 
have  clustered  together,  these  are  perfectly  bare  and  destitute  of  vege- 
tation. 

Among  these  masses,  where*  there  are  sometimes  isolated  hills  and 
ridges,  green  valleys  open  in  upon  the  river,  which  sweeps  the  base  of 
tliese  mountains  for  thirty-six  miles.  Every  where  its  deep  verdure  and 
profusion  of  beautiful  flowers  is  in  pleasing  contrast  with  the  sterile 
•grandeur  of  the  rock  and  the  barrenness  of  the  sandy  plain,  which,  from 
the  right  bank  of  the  river,  sweeps  up  to  the  mountain  range  that  formy 
its  southern  boundary.  The  great  evaporation  on  the  sandy  soil  of  this 
ielevated  plain,  and  the  saline  eJllorescences  which  whiten  the  ground^ 
And  shine  hke  lakes  reflecting  the  sun,  make  a  soil  wholly  unfit  for  culti- 
vation. 

-  t^ugust  3. — We  were  early  on  the  road  the  next  morning,  travelling 
along  the  upland  part  of  the  valley,  which  is  overgrown  with  artemisia. 
Scattered  about  on  the  plain  are  occasional  small  isolated  liills.  One  of 
these  which  I  examined,  about  fifty  feet  high,  consisted  of  whhc  clay  and 
marl,  in  nearly  horizontal  strata.     Several  bands  of  bufl'alo  made  their  ap- 


! 
I 


• ' 


il  |i:i' 


1 

V 

p 


'     .1 


«:-i^;i 


.-iS  (AIT.  FHKMON'i'M  NAUUATIN  n.  [Ij 

prnnuH'd  io-cImv,  willi  hrnls  oT  nutclopiv,  mimI  ;>  'rii/./Iy  bf^fM* — t!ioonlyo 
wo  (MK'DtiiiiiTrtl  diiriiij,'  tli('  jdunicy      w.is  si-cn  sfiiiiMhIitit,'  iipnmnMp;t 
roi'ks.      As  u  ('  piisscd  over  a  sliylu  rise  iicir  llu^  iivfr,  w»5  ciiili^lit  llic  fir 
viinv  o\   111'-  \\  iimI   rivrr  inoimt.iiiis,  ;»|)|M';iriiii;,  ;ii  lliis  distmic.!  of  ahoii 
sovoiity  miles,  lt>  he  i\  low  and  dark  nioiiii(;iiM(Mis  ridi^'c.  'I'lm  vuiw  dissipnj 
<'d  in  :i  nMinnMil  llic  pictures  wliicli  li.id  liecn  ereiited  i;i  onr  nunds,  hy  nriiii 
dosenpliDns  (t|  lravell(>rs,  who  have  eitni|»,ned  these  nionnlains  to  the  Alp 
ill  Swil/erhuid.  and  speak  of  the.  ghltermi,'  pe;iks  which  ri.su  in  icy  luiijtsti 
amidst  the  eiern.il  glaciers  nine  or  ten  thousand  leet  into  the  rc/^ioti  olClH 
nal  snows.     The  nakechiess  olthe  river  was  reheved  hy  i^roves  <»(' willnw 
whert?  we  encamped  at  nitjht,  alter  a  m;irch  ol  i\\«!nly-six  miles  ;  and  n 
lui'rous  hrii,'htct)lor(Ml    (lowers  had  made  (he  river  bottom  look  «;ay  as 
garden.     NN  e  lound  here  a  horse,  which  had  heen  ahatidoned  l)y  the  h 
(iiaus,  because   his   hool's  liad   been  s(»  nniih  worn  that  he  was  imablui 
travel;  and,  durnii;  llu^  mght.  a  dog  caini^  Mit(»  the  camp. 

»iiiHii.s/  I. — Our  camp  was  at  the  loot  ol'  the  ijraniltMnoimtains,  wlm 
we   ehmbed    this  morning  to  tak(^   some  haromtMrical  h(Mghts;  and  In 
among  liie  rocks  was  stMiii  the  (irsi  maifpie.     On  our  rettu'ii,  we  sa  w  di 
at  the  mouth  ol'  the   IMalto  river.     W  r  Idt  her(!  one  of  our  horses,  wlm 
was  unaltle  to  proceed  farther.     A  few  mil<s  from  the  enrampiuont  we  li 
ihe  river,  which  makes  a  bond  to  the  south,  and,  traversing  an  muiiilalin, 
country.  <'t>iisistniu  ol  a  grayish  micactMuts  sandstoim  atid  f'mo.-grainod  coi 
glomerales.  struck  it  again,  and  (Micatnped.  alt(M"  a  it)uruey  of  twonty-liv 
nnles.     Astronouiica!  ohservalions  placed  us  in  latitude  4ii"  32'  :U)",  an 
Jongitude  lO.s^'  30'  13". 

v'Jt!ij^i/\/  5. —  The  luorning  was  dark,  with  a  driving  rain,  and  (hsagroe 
ably  cold.  We  contimted  our  route  as  usu.il :  hut.  the  weather  became  s 
bad,  that  we  were  glad  to  avail  ourselves  o!  the  shelt(M'  ofFered  by  a  snia 
island,  about  t(  n  miles  above  otir  la.st  encampment,  which  was  coverti 
with  a  dense  growth  of  willows.  There  was  line  grass  for  our  animals 
and  the  tnnher  all'orded  us  comfortable  proU'ciiou  and  good  fires.  In  lli< 
afternoon,  the  sun  hroke  through  the  clouds  lor  a  si:  )rt  time,  and  the  ba 
rometer  at  ").  p.  m.,  was  at  2:{.71.3,  the  thermometer  (iO",  with  the  wiiii 
strong  from  the  northwest.  Wo  availed  ourselves  of  the  line  weather  ti 
make  ex(Mnsions  in  the  neighboriiood.  'i'he  river,  at  tliis  place,  is  bolder 
ed  hy  hills  ol  the  valley  formation.  They  are  of  moderate  height;  one  o 
the  highest  peaks  on  the  right  hank  being,  aceonling  to  the  barometer,  oii' 
hundred  and  eighty  feet  above  the  river.  On  the  left  bank  they  are  highei 
They  consist  of  a  line  white  clayey  sandstone,  a  white  calcareous  sandstoiio 
and  coarse  sandstone  or  pudding  stone. 

•/Sui^^Ksf  6. — It  contimied  steadily  raining  all  the  day  ;  but,iiotwitlistaiul 
ing,  we  left  our  encampment  in  the  afternoon.  Our  animals  had  bec[ 
much  refreshed  hy  their  repose,  and  an  abundance  of  rich,  soft  grass,  whici 
had  been  much  improved  by  the  rains.  In  about  three  miles,  we  reaciicc 
the  entrance  of  a  kanyon,  where  the  Sweet  Water  issues  upon  the  niort 
open  valley  we  had  passed  over,  humediately  at  the  entrance,  and  super 
imposed  directly  upon  the  granite,  are  strata  of  compact  calcareous  sand' 
stone  and  chert,  alternating  with  fine  wliite  and  reddish  white,  and  iiiif 
gray  and  red  sandstones.  These  strata  dip  to  the  eastward  at  an  angle  o; 
about  IS^,  and  form  the  western  limit  of  the  sandstone  and  limestone  forma 
tions  on  the  hue  of  our  route.  Here  we  entered  among  the  primitive 
rocks.     The  usual  road  passes  to  the  right  of  this  place ;  but  we  wounfi 


3 


ri«4 

\y  bojtr— tho  only  on 
iiihliiit;  iipnm»uif»(|] 
r,  wo  Ciiiiylit  lli(>  lir 
Ills  (lislaiic  of  ;ilii)|J 
<?.  'I'll"!  VK'w  (lissi|)i\|| 
!i  our  iiiinds,  l>y  iii;in| 
iioiintaiiis  to  tlin  Al|> 
r||  list!  ill  ley  in;i)is 
ltd  llic  n';j;i(Ui  olCiij 
l»y  i^iovcs  i){'  willdu' 
ly-'<ix  iiiilcN  ;  and  r 
Ixilloiii  look  yay  ;is 
l>ari(ioiii(l  liy  (lir  li 
hat  he  was  uiiablci 
inp. 

iu^  nioiintaiiis,  wliii 
al  h«Mglils;  and  \m 
r  n'tiiiti,  W(!  saw  m. 
ol'  our  liorsos,  wIik 
'  (Mirampmntit  wo  li 
/orsitii;  ail  iiiKJiiliiiiii 
and  rmo-graiiied  ca>\ 
iiriity  oi"  Iwoiily-liv 
lido  '12"  '32'  MO"",  ail 

ii;  rain,  and  disai'rci 

5  wcallior  bncaiiH!  ^ 

ci-  oflored  by  a  siiia 

,  which  was  covorc 

ass  for  our  aniinal 

I  i,M)od  fires.     Ill  111 

rt  time,  and  the  hi 

(i(V',  with  the  win 

(h(;  line  weathor  i 

this  place,  is  border 

erate  height ;  one  o 

)  the  barometer,  on 

)ank  they  are  highci 

alcarecus  sandstoin 

;  but,notwithstaii(l 

'  animals  had  bt^i 

hySoft  grass,  whici 

miles,  we  reaeiiei 

acs  npon  the  tnon 

ntrancc,  and  super 

ct  calcareous  sand' 

sh  white,  and  iiiu 

vard  at  an  angle  o: 

id  limestone  forma 

long  the  primitive 

:e  ;  but  we  wouii! 


(An*  ki{i:montm  wiujatin  k 


fl»» 


rrtthor  srramltl'd,  our  way  up  llu'  narrow  valley  lor  several  hoiu"-. 
^ildui'ss  Mini  (li-iordrr  wrro  fiu"  cliar.K'icr  ol  llihi  ^n•||('ry.  'I'lie  river  had 
)cn  swollen  by  the  lati^  rains,  aiid  eaine  rnsbiii'j;  lliroii<j;|i  with  an  iinpotiKUiv 
irp'Ut,  three  or  (our  feet  deep,  and  L'ener.itly  twenty  yards  broad,  'riic 
ny  was  sdnietiines  the  breadth  of  the  stream,  and  vometimes  opened 
ito  ittit!  Ljreen  ineinlow's,  sixty  yards  wnle,  with  npen  ^'rovi-s  of  aspen, 
he  siieam  was  bordered  lbroufi;bout  with  aspen,  beech,  iitid  willow;  and 
II  piiK's  L'lew  on  the  sides  and  summits  of  tla^  eia^s.     On  both  sifjes,  the 

mite  rocks  nts((  |iiecipiiously  to   the    beiidit   of  three   hundred  and  ft 


ve 


kindred  leef,  lermiiiatiii!^  in  jai^^ed  and  broKen  [lointed  peaks  ;  and  (rag- 
iflleiitN  of  filleii  roek  lay  piled  up  at  the  f.ii.t  of  the  preeipice.s.  (Iihm.ss, 
^Mica  slate,  and  a  while  yranite,  were  Jimonglbe.  varieties  I  noticed.  Here 
'l^ert!  m;iny  old  tiiues  of  beaver  on  the  slienni  ;  lemnants  of  dams,  near 
^hieh  were  lyins.;:  trees,  wbieli  flniy  bad  cut  dnwii,  one  and  two  i'rcl  in 
«iiameler.     The  hills  entirely  shut  up   the   river  at    the  end  of  about   five 

tiles,  and  we  turned  up  a  ravine  that  led  to  a  lii'.;li  prairie,  which  seemed  to 
the  general  level  of  the  country.  Ileiiee,  to  ili(r  summit  of  tin;  ridg'', 
.Acre  is  a  remihir  and  very  gradual  ris«'.  iJloeKs  of  granite  were  piled  up 
III  the  heads  of  the,  ravines,  and  small  bare  knolls  of  mica  slate  and  milky 
quartz  protruded  at  fretpKiiit  intervals  on  the  prairie,  which  was  whitened 
)jil  occasional  spots  with  small  salt  lakes,  where  ibe  water  had  evaporatcfl, 
<ltld  left  the  bed  covi^red  With  a  shining  nn-in  Nation  ol  salt.  Tfie  evening 
^as  very  cold,  a  northwest  wind  driving  a  fine  rain  in  our  faces  ;  and  fit 
Sightliill  we  (lese<!n<l(!d  to  a  little  stream,  on  wliii'h  W);  (iticarnped,  about 
fivo  miles  iVoin  the  Sweet  Water.  Iler(;  bad  recently  bfien  a  very  large, 
Himp  of  Snake  .  iid  (Irow  Indians;  and  some  larji-e  poles  lying  about  af- 
Ibrded  the  means  ol'  pilchitig  a  tent,  and  inakini.':  other  places  ul  shelter. 
Our  fires  to-mght  were  made  princir)ally  of  the  dry  branches  of  the  arte- 
ihi-sia,  which  coviired  tla;  slopes,  it  burns  (|uiekly,  with  a  clear  oily  flame, 
imd  makes  a  hot  (ire.  'I'lie  hills  li(;re  are  coinitosed  of  hard,  compact  niif;;i. 
ilate,  with  veins  of  cpiartz. 

»  *^ui(usl  7. — We  left  our  encampment  with  the  rising  sun.  As  we  rose 
Itom  the  bed  of  tin;  creek,  the  .<t7ioto\'im'.  ol  the  nioimlairis  stretched  grandly 
^tefore  US,  the  white  peaks  glittering  in  the  sun.  They  liad  been  hidden 
to  the  dark  weather  of  the  last  few  days, and  il  had  been  .innwing  cm  them, 
■labile  it  rained  in  the  plains.  We  cross<;d  a  ridije,  nnd  again  struck  the 
flweet  Water — here  a  beautiful,  swift  stream,  with  a  more  open  valley, 
Umbered  with  beech  and  cottonwood.  It  now  b(,'g;ui  to  lose  itself  in  the 
many  small  forks  which  make  its  head;  and  we  continued  up  the  main 
stream  until  near  noon,  when  we  left  it  a  few  miles,  to  make  our  noon  hall 
•n  a  small  creek  among  the  hills,  from  which  the  stream  issues  by  a  small 
Opening.  Within  was  a  beautiful  grassy  spot,  cov(jrcd  with  an  open  grove 
mi  large  beech  trees,  among  which  I  found  several  plants  that  I  liad  not. 

frevionsly  seen. 
The  afternoon  was  cloudy,  with  squalls  of  rain  ;  but  the  weather  be- 
came fine  at  sunset,  when  we  again  encampiid  on  the  Sweet  Water,  with- 
•^  a  few  miles  of  the  South  Pass.  The  coimlry  over  which  we  have 
((passed  to-day  consists  principally  of  the  compact  mica  slate,  which  crops 
iut  on  all  the  ridges,  making  the  uplands  very  rocky  and  slaty.  In  the 
iscarpments  which  border  the  creeks,  it  is  seen  alternating  with  a  light- 
colored  granite,  at  an  inclination  of  45°;  the  beds  varying  in  thickness 
from  two  or  three  feet  to  six  or  eight  hundred.     At  a  distance,  the  granite 


(iO 


<;ai'T.  kkkmontm  nauuativk. 


[isd 


•I: 

ii 


*I!^4- 


rrcqucntly  lias  llio  .ippcaraiin'  of  irromilar  lnnipsof  clay,  Imrdftiicd  by  eJ 
[tosurc.  A  varifily  of  ii.s/tr.\  may  now  hn  miml)iM«!(l  ainoiii^  llio  cliaracieJ 
istic  |)lants,  and  iIm>  artumisia  contiiinos  in  lull  i^lory  ;  liiii  r//r// havo  b«| 
coinu  rare,  and  nioss(;s  l)ru;iii  to  dispiito  tliu  hills  with  thoiii.  'I'hu  <  voninl 
was  damp  and  in»pl<\'is;iiit  ;  \\u\  tluTinoiniilor,  at  lo  o'tlock,  l)eing  at  36J 
and  iUo.  f^rass  wet  with  a  in  ivy  di!W.  Our  aslionoinitMl  oliM-ivations  place 
this  JMicufuptninnt  in  lon.,Mtu.h!'l()!) '  21'  32",  and  laliHidu  ■\'^'  21'  KO". 

Karly  in  tho  niorniim  wo  rc.snnuHl  our  jonrniiy,  ihc  wnailuT  siill  cloiidr 
with  occasional  rain.  Our  ^MMicrai  conrsc  was  west,  as  I  had  (Ujlcrniiii'' 
lo  cross  the  dividing  rulu'e  hy  a  hndic  )»ath  anioiiu;  the  hioken  coiniti 
more  ininiedialcly  ill  iIk;  loot  of  the  nioiintains,  and  n-tnin  hy  the  wagi> 
road,  two  and  a  hall  niilos  lo  tho  soulh  of  the  point  where  the  Hail  crosso' 

About  six  niil(!s  from  our  (^ncauipnuMit  hront^hi  u.  to  the  sininnil.     Th 
a.sccnt  had  been  so  matliial,  that,  with  all   Ihe   intiinatis   kni)wledu[C  po«, 
sesscd  hy   Carson,  who   h;id  made  this  country  his  home  for  scvetitftci 
years,  we  wore  ohliyed  i,o  waich  very  closely  to  find  tiiu  place  at  whici 
we  had  reached  the  ciilmiu-itini;  point.     This  was  Ix^twcen  two  low  hill> 
using  on  cither  hand   (ifiy  or  sixty  feet.     When  I  looUed  hack  at  then,  tl 
from  die  foot  of  th(!  inniu'diaie  slope  on  the  wesiern  plain,  iliiiir  sninmii    ii 
appeared  to  ho  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feel  above.     From  the  iiii 
pression  on  my  mind  al  this  time,  and  subsecptenily  on  our  rt'lurn,  I  shoiil 
compare  the  elevalion   whii:h  we  surmounted  inunediatcly  al  tho  Pass,  I 
the  ascent  of  the  ('ajMlol  hill  from  the  avenue,  at  Wasliin^lon.     It  is  dilli 
cult  for  mc  to  fix  ))osiliveIy  the  breadth  of  this  |)ass.     From  the  broke: 
ground  where  it  commences,  at  the  fool  ol  tlu!  Wind  rivi'r  chain,  the  view 
:o  the  southeast  is  over  a  champaign  comitry,  brokiMi,  al  the  distance  o 
nineteen  miles,  by  the  Table   rock;  which,  with  the  oilu;r  isolated  hill 
in  its  vicinity,  seems  lo  stand  on  a  comparative  plain.     This   I  judged  t( 
be  its  termination,  the  ridL;e  recovering  its  rugged  character  with  the  Tabit 
Tock.     It  will  be  seen  iIuU  it  in  no  manner  resembles  tin;  places  to  whicl 
the  term  is  commonly  applied — nothing  of  the  gorge-like  character  am 
winding  ascents  of  the  Allegheny  passes  in  America:  nothing  of  the  Grea; 
St.   Bernard  and  Simplon  passes  in  Europe.     Approaching  it  from  the 
Tnouth  of  the  Sweet  Watcu',  a  sandy  plain,  one  hundred  and  twenty  mile; 
long,  conducts,  by  a  gradual  and   regular  ascent,  lo  the  summit,  abou 
seven  thousand  feet  above  the  sua;  and  the  traveller,  without  being  re^ 
minded  of  any  change  by  toilsome  ascents,  suddenly  linds  himself  on  tlie 
waters  wliich  flow  to  the  Pacific  ocean.     By  the  route  wc  had  travelled 
the  distance  from  Fort  Laramie  is  three  hundred  and  twenty  miles,  or  nine 
hundred  and  fifty  from  ihe  mouth  of  the  Kansas. 

Continuing  our  march,  we  reached,  in  eight  miles  from  the  Pass,  tlie 
Little  Sandy,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Colorado,  or  (Ireen  river  of  the 
Gulf  of  California.  Tho  weather  had  grown  fine  during  tho  morning,  and 
we  remained  h'^re  the  rest  of  the  day,  to  dry  our  baggage  and  take  some 
astronomical  observations.  The  stream  was  about  forty  feet  wide,  and  \i 
two  or  three  deep,  with  clear  water  and  a  full  swift  current,  over  a  sandy  i 
bed.  It  was  timbered  with  a  growth  of  low  bushv  and  dense  willows,  i* 
among  which  were  litlle  verdant  spots,  which  gave  our  animals  fine  grass, 
and  where  I  found  a  nutnber  of  interesting  plants.  Among  the  neighbor- 
ing hills  I  noticed  fragments  of  granite  containing  magnetic  iron.  Longi- 
tude of  the  camp  was  109^  'M'  59",  and  latitude  42^  27'  34". 

%'iugust  9. — We  made  our  noon  halt  to-day  on  Big  Sandy,  another 


w 
th 
9 
re 

ai 
le 

ts 
? 
\ 


■  I 


[I! 


•1.] 


r-AlT    KRKMONT.I  NARH\T|VK 


•  1 


ly,  Imrdflncd  bye; 

noiii^'  thn  charade 

lull  ctivli  li.'ivo  b( 

liiMii.     Tin; «  vcnini 

i'li><:l\,   hi'illfj  al 

oliNi'ivarioiisplnci 
•«  -li'  2T  15". 
fi'.'iilicr  siill  (;|()n,| 
•"<  I  had  (lot(Miuiiii 
li<!  lirokiMi  couriir 


ularyof  rtrooii  rivrr.     Thf  face  of  Iheronntty  trav»'rsr'd  was  of  ft  brown 

d   of  ^'r;iiiiic   malcriah,  Jho  tfrfrifns  o[  iho    iifivhlmriiig   inouritaiiiH. 

a(a  of  iho  milky  quailz  rro|ijMMl  out,  and  I  lorks  of  ;,'ratiito  wcro  scat- 

d  ahoul,  (•(•Miaitiiiii,'  inaytH-tic  iron.     On  Sandy  rrct-k  Uir  fortiiatioM  wa,s 

articolofcd  s.itid.J'xhihitod  in  oscarpnKMil-i  fifty  to  ()i;^'hfv  tort  high.     In 

aflornoon  wr   h.nl   a  scvrr*'  stortn  of  li.iil.  and  •  nc.unpod  atsiiriNfttoii 

first  Now  Fork.     Wiihin  iho  space  of  a  few  'uilt ;',  iho  Wind  monn- 

ns  supply  a  nurnlx'r  of  trihuiarics  lo  (lr«MMi  riv)  r.  wl;ich  aro  all  cail'-d  the 

w  Forks.     N'MT  our  ramp  wcrti  two  rcmaikiihlc  isolated   hdls,  otu;  <>l' 

in  Minici'-iiily  lii!^''' lo  nuril  tho  iiauK!  ol   iiio.intain.      They  are  called 

lurii  hy  Iho  wagd  (|||.  Two  lUittcs,  and  will  servo  to  identify  the  place  of  our  eUfumprnftnt, 
re  (he  Hail  crosst,  ^jjch  the  <d)servalioiis  of  the  eveiiirii»  place;!  in  ion^'itude  lOfi^  r>H'  11", 
■td  latiiu'le  IJ '  \y  -Hi".  Oil  the  ri^'hl  haidi  of  the  Mreain,  opposite  to  t!ie 
Igj^e  hill,  the  strata  which  are  dis[)layed  eoiisi.-t  of  dccumposio^'  jrramte, 
which  sup[»lies  the  hmwii  sand  of  which  the  face  of  the  country  is  com- 
Blscvi  to  a  c<Misidera!)lc  (l(!plli. 

■  Jhiijufit  10.--'rii«-  air  at  sunrise  is  clear  and  pure,  and  the  morninj?  ex- 
tltmely  cold,  hiii  hcaiililid.  A  lofty  snow  peak  ol  the  mountain  is  glitler- 
ain,  iheirsiimniii  ing  in  the  first  rays  of  the  sun.  which  fias  not  yet  reached  us.  The  long 
^e.  From  the  im  miDuntain  wall  to  th(!  east,  risiuii  two  thoii,>an(l  iVet  ahrup'Iy  fioni  the 
•ur  reluni,  I  shoiil  plain,  heliind  which  we  see  the  penks,  is  siill  dark,  and  cuts  clear  against 
;ely  at  the  Pass,  I  the  giowini,'  sky.  A  fo^-,  just  risen  from  the  river,  lirs  alonj,  the  base  of 
tie  mountain.  A  I iltN;  before  sunrise,  the  thermometer  was  at  35°,  and  at 
sunrise  '.i'S".  WaK-r  I'ro/o  last  ni^ht,  and  finss  are  very  comfortable.  The 
ijenery  b(!come.s  hourly  mon;  interesting  and  qraiid,  and  the  view  here  .is 
Huly  magiiihcent;  hut,  indeed,  it  needs  someihing  to  repay  the  long  prai- 
rie journey  of  a  thoiivuid  miles.  The  sun  liars  just  shot  above  the  wall, 
and  makei  a  inagical  e.hangc.     The  whole  valley  is  'blowing  and   bright, 


the  Miminit.  '\\ 
to  knowledge  po^ 
Jiiie  for  seventfip 
M!  place  at  wliici 
^een  two  low  hill 
vcd  hack  at  then 


mgton.  It  is  dilli 
From  the  broke 

or  chain,  the  view 
at  the  distance  o 

ih(!r  isolated  hill 

I'll  is   1  judged  tc 


er  with  the  Tabit  »nd  all  the  moimiaiii  penksare  gleaming  likesilver.     Though   these   snow 

e  places  to  whici  ©ountuins  are  not  the   Alps,  they  have  their  own  character  of  grandeur 

v'o  character  atK  aiid  magnificence,  and  will  doul)tless  find  pens  and  pencils  to  do  them 

"ling  of  the  Greu;  jttstice.     In  the  scene  before  us,  we  feel  how  much  wood  improves  a  view. 

ling  it  from  the  The  pines  on  the  mountain  seemed  to  give  it  much  additional  beauty.     J 

iiid  twenty  mile;  was  agreeably  (iisappointed  in  the  character  of  the  streams  on  this  side  of 

summit,  abou:  the  ridge.     Instead  of  the  creeks,  which  descri[)tion  had  led  me  lo  expect, 

ithout  being  re  J  find  bold,  broad  streams,  with  three  or  four  feet  water,  and  a  rapid  cur- 

s  himself  on  tlie  lent.     The  fork  on  which  we  are  encamped  is  upwanis  of  a  hundred  feet 

^c  had  travelled,  wide,  timbered  with  groves  or  thickets  of  the  low  willow.     We  were  now 

ity  miles,  or  nine  approaching  the  loftiest  part  of  the  Wind  river  chain  ;  and  I  left  the  val- 
ley a  few  miles  from  our  encampment,  intending  to   penetrate  the  monn- 

11  the  Pass,  the  tains  as  far  as  jjossihle  with  the  whole  party.     We   were  soon  involved  in 

reen  river  of  the  Very  broken  ground,  among  long  ridges  covered  with  fragments  of  granite. 

10  morning,  anil  Winding  our  way  up  a  long  ravine,  we  came  unexpectedly   in  view  of  a 

and  take  some  Bnost  beautiful  lake,  set  like  a  gem  in  the  mountains.     The  sheet  of  water 

feet  wide,  and  lay  transversely  across  the  direction  we  had  been  pursuing;  and,  descend- 

it.  "ver  a  sandy  ing  the  steep,  rocky  ridge,  where  it  was  necessary  to  lead  our  horses,  we 

dense  wiliow.s,  followed  its  hanks  to  the  southern  exirc.iity.     Here  a  view  of  the  utmost 

imals  fine  grass,  jnagnificence  and  grandeur  burst  upon  our  eyes.     With  nothing  between 

ig  the  neighbor-  Us  and  their  feet  to  lessen  the  effect  of  the  whole  height,  a  grand  bed  of 

c  iron.     Longi-  inow-capped    mountains  rose  before  us,  pile  upon  pile,  glowing  in  the 
bright  light  of  an  August  day.     Immediately   below  them  lay  the  lake, 

Sandy,  another  J>etweea  two  ridges,  covered  with  dark  pines,  which  swept  down  from 


I 


r 

I. 

t 

h 

i 

i 


(iy 


t'APT.  FWKMnNT'H  NAHUATIVi: 


/-i 


[184^ 

tliu  main  cliaii)  to  llu>  spot  wlmrr  wit. stood.     IIcp,  whero  lli«>  Inko  ^littore 
III  ilio  n|)en  Niiiiliglil,  its  Itaiiks  ot  yiMow  Mamlaiid  (Im'  liv;lit  l'(>liai(i\f>t' fispii 
)L'H)V«'s  ooitliaMt'd   well   witli  ilin    yhioiiiy   jUMt's.     "  i\»;vrr  lu'lorn,"  jtanj 
Mr.  I'lriis.s,  "III  lliis  ooiiiiiiy  or  in  Knio|»i,  liavti  I  mtii  .mk'Ii   inamiifif'Ptiil 
•jiaiiil  rocks.'*     1  w.is.so  niii'  Ii  idcasfit  widi  llii;  l>«!aniy  o|   (ho    |>lacr,  tlij 
I  dfiurmiiiiMl  to  maUo  llii>  main  cain|i  lioro,  wluni!  our  animals  would  tiiiif 
trood  |iasinrai(*',  and  itxplorc  llio  nionniain.s  with  a  small  party  ot'  ni(>rt| 
l>r(Ma!t>dln^  a  litllo  I'iikIhm,  wc  canK^  siuUicnly  n|Hiii  ilir  unili-i  ol  llio  lak>' 
wlioro  It  tonnd  ii.s  way  llirou.:li  a  narrow  passagt'  Ix'twiiii  low  lulls.    |)ai, 
|»incs.  wliicji  tjvciliniii,'  ilio  Mrcain,  and  masses  ot'  rock,  wlicri!  tinj  vvnkr' 
loaiiicd  along,  uavi;  ii  nincli  rttinantic  huanty.     U'licr*!  wo  ('ro^.sl>d,  wliici 
wa.s  imnii'diately  at  ilm  oiillri,  it  i.s  iw<»  linndrrd  and  lil'iy   fiit-i   wide,  uik 
^o  deep,  llial  Willi  dillicnlly  \v «'  wrri'  abli^  to  lortl  ii.     lis  hod    was  an  ar  $\^ 
cnmnlation  ol  r«)c'ks,  hiMildt'i's,  and   hroad  slahs,  and  larmi;  an^^nlar  t'ruu 
nionis,  ainon^  wliicli  tlic  .uiiinaLs  tril  ropcutodly. 

'I'lif  ciirrcui  was  very  swiit,  and  llie  water  cold,  and  (d'  a  erystal  purity 
In  crossing  this  sireain.  I  inel  willi  a  yreat  niisiorlniic  in  ii.ivin^'  my  ba  cf 
romuter  hroUeii.      ll  was  (lie  only  oiu*.     A  unreal  part  olllie  intcicsi  of  tip  U 
journey  for  mo  was  in  llw  eX|iloiation  of  these  niouiUams,  of  wlueh  n 
nnich  had  heen  said  that  was  douhtful  and  eoiilradiclory  ;  and  now  Ihci 
snowy  peaks  rosf  maj''stii:aliy  helore  me,  and  llu;  only   means  of  giviii: 
them   anlheniically  lo  .science,    ihe  olijecl  of  my  anxious   si)lieilndo    1) 
night  and  day,  was  destroyed.     We  had  l)rou;^dit  this  l)art)ni<'ti;r  in  .safel,  ^^ 
a  (hons;ind  miles,  and  broke,  it  aimosi  auionu;  (he  snow  of  thi;  mountain:) 
The  loss  was  felt  by  llii'  whole  camp — all  had  seen  my  anxiciy,  and  aido: 
>n»;  in  presorvmu:  it.     'I'hc  lieiuhi  «d   thcst;  mouiiiains,  considered   l»y  tie 
huiitoi;;  ..;.d  traders  liic  hi^hesi  in  the  whole  ran^e,  had  hueii  a   iheino  o: 
constant  ili.scn.s.vii)ii  amoiiL:  (hem;  and  all  had   looked  torwarii  with  pleas- 
ure to  the  monu'iii  w  lun  (lie  instrument,  which  they  believed  to  bt;  trm 
as   the  sun,  shonld  s(and  upon  the  summits,  and  decidt:  llieir   dispuif> 
Their  grid'  was  only  inferior  lo  my  own. 

Thi.«:  lake  is  aboni  three  miles  long,  and  of  very  irregnhtr  widih,  and 
apj':irently  ijreal  depth,  and  is  the  head  water  of  the  iliird  New  Fork, 
a  tributary  lo  (Jreeii  livei'.  ihe  Colorado  of  the  west.  In  the  narra- 
tive, 1  have  called  it  .MouiKain  lake.  1  encamped  on  liie  north  side, 
about  tliree  hundred  and  liity  yards  liom  the  outlet.  This  was  the  most 
western  point  at  which  1  ol)(ained  asirononucal  obvservations,  by  which 
this  place,  called  iiernier's  eiieampmeut,  is  made  in  1 10'  ots'  o;>"  west  lon- 
gitude from  (ireenwieli,  and  laiitnde  43^  49'  49".  The  mouniain  peaks, 
as  laid  down,  were  tixed  by  bear.ngs  from  this  and  other  astronomical 
l)oinis.  We  had  no  other  compass  than  the  small  ones  n-sed  in  sketchina; 
the  country ;  but  from  an  azimuth,  in  which  one  of  ihem  was  u.'sed.  tlu' 
variation  of  the  compass  is  is^^'  east.  The  correction  made  in  our  field 
work  by  the  astronomical  observations  indicates  that  this  is  a  very  correct 
observation. 

As  soon  as  the  camp  was  formed,  I  set  about  endeavoring  to  repair  my 
barometer.  As  I  have  already  said,  this  was  a  standard  cistern  barometer, 
of  Troughton's  construction.  The  glass  cistern  liad  been  broken  about 
midway  ;  but  as  the  nistrument  had  been  !<:ept  in  a  proper  position,  no  air 
had  found  its  way  into  the  tube,  the  end  of  which  had  always  remained 
covered.  I  had  with  me  a  number  of  vials  of  tolerably  thick  glass,  some 
of  wliich  were  of  the  same  diameter  as  the  cistern,  and  I  spent  the  day  in 


ai 
or 
te 


th 
ea 

roi 

id 


of 
of 
th 
d( 
m 
i\ 
B 

XX 

•w 
\« 
n 

P 

h 

0 

c 

I 

1 


[18^ 
urn  iliolnkoglitjrr, 

IKIiI  lol|jll(ivol';if(pej 

I  Mif'li   in.i^nincpnt 

'  «»(■    lilt)     pluci',  tlK-t 

aniiii.ils  would  find 
iiall  |i,ir»y  oC  mpf 
'  oiill.'l  ni  ilio  luk« 
^••••1  luu'  lulls.  Darj 
,  wliiTt!  the  wniif 

\V(!    iMOMJ'd,   wIlKi 

I'ly  I'cfi  wide,  ui|, 
fs  ht'd  was  an  a< 
n'^<'  iiii;iiilar  Ini- 

ol  a  ciyslal  |)iiiii\ 
ill  ii.iviiiM;  my  I,;, 
I'lln)  iiilnt'si  of  ill 
Jims,  of  which  .s, 
y ;  and  now  tlioi 
'  iiu-aiis  of  giviii: 
oils  soliciliido  1) 
ironu'tcr  iii  .safci, 
<>t  lh<>  inoiiiitaiii> 
•  ii\i.:iy,  jiikJ  aide: 
•onsidorc'd  l»y  t|i' 
I'uoii  a  llicmo  ()| 
I  wail i  wilh  pleas- 
litivcd  (o  hv.  irui 
•it!  lliuir  di.s|)uif> 


1  <;Al»r    FHKMoNT'H  NARHVTIVK.  99 

rjy  workini;  011  iI)i!m«!,  (Midiavoriiit^  to  rut  (lioni  of  tlin  rcqiiisiin  luitglh  ; 

(IS  my  iiislruiiHMit  was  a  very  roii^di  fdi;,  I  iiivarialily  ImdtM  tlinii.  A 
)Vo  was  cnl  m  oii«'  of  iIh;  trt-rs,  wlu!r»5  tli«*  liaroiip'ln  was  pltrrd  diiriiii; 
ni;^'hl,  (o  III)  onl  of  till'  way  of  any  posHilili;  dani^«>r,  and  in  tlw'  nioriiiii;^ 
HiiriKMiccd  ai'ain.     Anions  tin;  powder  horuN  in  tin)  cantp,  I  found  onn 

li  wasvi-ry  traiiNpaiiMil,  so  ili  it  its  cotittMils  could  Im  aJinosf.  as  plainly 

[\  as  throui^ti  ulas^.     This  I  hoilrd  and  slrctcln:d  <»n  a   picci-  of  wood  to 

rL'ijui.NUe  dtanitlcr,  and  scriprd  it  vi'iy  thin,  in  order  lo  incn-ase  to  ilio 

list  its  trunsparunt^y.    I  thm  sccuriMJ  it  firmly  in  iis  placo  on  the  instru« 

lilt,  with  slront^  ^iiiu  mudn  from  a  hud'alo,  and  HilrMJ  it  with  niMrciiry, 


pif|ii  rly  heated.  A  pii^cc  of  skm,  which  hnd  covcrml  one  o(  iho  vials, 
fmiiisliid  a  ltojmJ  pocket,  wliH'li  wis  well  socnr"d  with  strong'  ilwead  and 
gUc  and  then  the  hrass  cover  was  scrowj'd  to  its  place.  The  instiuiiient 
wps  left  some  lime  to  dry  ;  and  wImmi  I  nivorsed  it.u  few  hours  after,  I  had 
tin  salisfaclioii  to  find  it  in  piifrei  order ;  its  indicnlions  lieiii'.^  ahonl  the 
MDie  as  on  tlu!  other  side  of' the  |;d<e  hefore  it  had  hccn  hrokt  11.  Our  snc> 
CW  III  this  little  iiicHh'ul  dill'iis(!d  |il(!:tsnri!  lhroiii;iioul  tlu;  caniji :  and  wc 
iiatnediately  Mct  uhont  our  preparations  for  nsceiidin^  the  mountains. 

^\s  will  he  s«;en  on  n.'fereiict'  to  a  map,  on  this  short  niouiilain  cjiaiti 
art  the  head  waters  of  lour  LMcat  rivers  o(  the  continent ;  iiam..'l\-.  the  Col- 
OI!i<l<>,  Colmnhia,  .Missmni,  and  I'lalte  rivers.  It  had  heen  niy  iIi-'sIlmi,  af- 
ter haviiii;  ascended  tli«5  m.)unlains,  lo  continue  oiu*  route  on  thu  western 
side  of  the  ran^e,  and  crossini;  throu'Ji  a  pas.s  at  the  north  western  end  of 
tbf  chain,  ahout  thirty  miles  from  our  prijscnt  cain|),  return  nloni,'  tho 
eHMcrn  slope,  acioss  tli*;  heads  of  tin;  Y<;llowstoni!  river,  and  jiin  on  Iho 
line  to  otu'  .station  of  Ar.i^Misi  7.  immc'iliately  at  tho  fool  of  the  ridj^'e.  In 
this  way,  I  should  he  unahlcd  to  include  tlio  whole  chain,  and  its  numo 
rous  waters,  in  my  survey  ;  hm  various  considerations  induced  me,  very 
rductantly,  to  abandon  this  plan. 

I  was  desirous  to  keep  strictly  within  tho  scope  of  my  instructions;  audit 
HOiiM  have  rerphred  ten  or  iilteen  additional  (lays  for  the  accomplishuKMit 
i,Milar  widtli  and  ofiiiis  object ;  our  animals  had  bccomi!  very  inu(;h  worn  out  witii  the  length 
of  the  journey;  iiame  was  very  scarce;  and,  tlioui,di  it  does  not  appear  in 
the  course  of  the  narativc,  (as  I  have  avoided  dwelling  upon  trilling  inci- 
dents not  connected  with  the  objects  of  tho  expedition,)  the  spirits  of  the 


liird  Ni;\v  Fork. 
Ill  the  narra- 
I  lie  nortii  side, 
IS  was  the  inos! 
Uiniis,  by  whicii 
)h'  o!)"  west  Ion- 
iiouniaiii  peaks. 
ler  astronomical 
cd  in  sketching 
i  was  used,  the 
ule  in  our  field 
s  a  very  correct 

g  to  repair  i7iy 
tern  barometer, 
broken  about 
position,  no  air 
ways  remained 
lick  glass,  some 
pent  the  day  in 


men  had  been  inucli  exhau'-teM  by  the  hardships  and  privations  ti;  which 
they  had  been  snIijectiMl,  Our  provisions  had  wellni'_'h  all  disafipeared. 
Bread  hud  been  long  out  of  iIk;  ([iiestion  ;  and  of  all  our  slock,  we  had  re- 
maining two  or  three  [lounds  of  colleo,  and  a  small  quantity  of  maccaroni, 
whicli  iiad  heen  husbaiidcid  with  great  care  for  tli<-  mniinlain  expedition 
we  were  about  to  undertake.  Our  daily  meal  consisted  of  dry  buH'alo 
Bjeai,  cooked  in  tallow;  and,  as  wc  had  not  dried  this  with  Indian  'ikill, 

efirt  of  it  was  spoiled  ;  and  what  remained  of  good,  was  as  hard  as  wood, 
nviiig  much  the  tasie  and  apicaranoe  of  so  many  pieces  of  bark.  Even 
Qt'  this,  our  stock  was  rapidly  dimiiii^ihing  in  a  camp  which  was  capable 
flif  consuming  two  butl'aloes  in  every  twenty-four  hours.  These  animals 
hnd  entirely  disappeared;  and  it  was  not  ])robable  that  we  should  fall  m 
with  them  again  until  we  returned  to  the  Sweet  Water. 
I  Our  arrangements  for  the  ascent  were  rapidly  completed.  Wo  were  in 
a  hostile  country,  which  rendered  the  greatest  vigilance  ;ind  circumspec- 
tion necessary.  The  puss  at  the  north  end  of  the  mountain  was  generally 
iDfested  by  Blackfeet ;  and  immediately  opposite  was  one  of  their  foiLs,  on 


i 


.>» " 


•4 


TAiT  fnKMoNrM  NAmtxrivK 


<! 


•«J;^ 


[i«i 


M\^ 


thu  t'dgo  o|  li  liiiln  lliii;liul,  two  or  tlirn>  linmlrrd   ivvl   from  our  nnonnJ 
nii'iil.     \\v  woro   ptiittril  in  a  ^rovo  (if  brirli,  on  llin  iitar^Mii  til'  lltn  \ai 
;iii(l  II  (I'W  liiiiiiln>(l  loM  Utwg,  willi  ii  narrow  /iniiri//nn  mi  ilir  inner  miJ 
burdi^rrtl  l)y  (lie  kx  Uy  ritii;!'.     In  (In*  n|)|)i'r  cml  ol'ihis  i;r(»vi'  we  ('liMrivll 
circniur  .spui-c  alioni  loriy  li'i  1  in  dianifh  r,  aiitl,  willi  liu'  lilltd  lnnl)i>rni{ 
niterwovcn  hrnnclirs,  surrounded  it  with  a  hn  artwork  livo  U>ul  in  liiii;il 
A  ^a|)  was  It'll  tor  a  L;al«'  on  tlii>  inner  side,  Ity  wlneli  ilio  uiniiiah  \v> 
to  liu  driven   in  and  siv-iiriMl,  while  ilie  men  slipt  iiKMind   lliu  lillle  \viir| 
It  was   hall   Inddeii   hy   the    loliai^e  ;  arri,   ^airiMnied   hy    twelve   reNoh 
niuu,  would  have  set  at  defiaiici!  any  liaixl  ol'  hava;^o:<  wliieh  iiiight  ehai, 


to  discover  them   m   iht;  inlorval   oi'  our    ah.stiie 


Kiltcon   of  the  Ih 


les,  Willi  loiirleeii  iiumi,  wt'ru  seleeted  for  the  moniitain  party.     ()m  |ii    g 


inn 

visions  I'.oiiM'oteil  of  dried  iiiral  tor  two  da\  >,  wiih  our  litlli,  MoeU  ol  ct 
and  soino  inaioarom.  In  addition  to  the  haroineter  and  a  thermomet(  r 
look  with  me  a  s«>\ianl  and  spy  i^lass,  and  we  had  nreonivsi;  our  couipasM 
In  charge  of  ih(>  ramp  I  lel't  Itermer,  oii>-  ol  my  niosi  inisiworthy  tii> 
who  po.s.se.ssed  the  most  dciermintid  eomai;e. 

,iiii^ust  r.j. — Marly  in  the,  inornin^  we  lelt  tin^  camp,  lil'iot'ii  in  nuinl 
witll  armed,  ol  course,  and  mounted  ou  onr  heM  mules.     A  paeU  aiiiii 
carried  onr  provisittiis,  with   a  eotleu  pi»t  and  l;ellle,  and   three  or   f»nir  ■ 
cups.      M\ery  man  had  a  hlankiit  strapped  over  his  iuuldle,  lo  .serve  lor  1 
bed,  and  the  instruments  were  carried   hy  turns  ou  their  hacks.     We  « 
tercil  directly  on  ronu;h  and  rocky  j^ronnd  ;  ami,  jnsl  alter  cri;.ssiii^  i 
rid^e,  had  the  :;ooil  rorltine  to  shoot  an  anielope.      \\e  Jiear^l  tht;  roar,  ;i 
had  a  i,'liuipsi'  of  a  watcilall  as  we   rode  alon|.' ;  ;ui(l,  crosNing  in  our  w 
two  line  streams,  irihiilary  to  ihu  Colorado,  in  ahout  two  hours'  rido  < 
reached  the  lop  u(  tho  lirsi  row  or  ram^c  of  the  mountains.     Mi.rn,  aga 
a  view  of  the  most  romantic  heaiily  nul  onr  eyes,      ll    eeined  as  if,  Im 
the  vast  expanse  ol  nninlerestiiig  prairie  wo  had  passed  ovi'r,  Nature  li. 
collected  all   her  beauties  together  in  one  chosen   place.     \\\\  wore  ovi 
booking  a  deep  valley,  which  was  entirely  «)cciipicd  by  three  lakes,  -.u 
from  the  brink  the  .surrounding  ridges  \osv.  precipitously  live  iamdretl  ai 
a  thousand  feet,  covered  wiih   the  dark  green  ol  the  balsaiu  /no,  relievi 
on  the   border  t)f  the  lake  with  the  light  foliage  ol  the  uspon.     'Hiey  a 


g 
a 

at 

n 

' 

\t 

'^. 

m 

Y 

fo 


ic 


commumcaied  with  each  other;  and  the  green  of  the  waicrs,  common ;     a 
mountain   lakes  of  great  depth,  showed  thai   it  would  be   impossible  i 
cross  them.    The  surprise  manilesteil  by  our  gtiidcs  wluju  these  impassah 
obstacles  suddenly  barreil  our  progress  j>rove(l  ihat  they  were  among  ll. 
hidden  treasures  of  the  place,  unknown  even  lo  the  wandering  trappers  i 
the  region.     Descending  the  hill,  we  proceeded  to   make  our  way  aim 
the  margin  to  the  soniliern  extremity.     A  narrow  strip  of  angular  fr;i: 
ineuls  of  rock  sometimes  allorded  a   rough   pathway  for  our  mules,  h\   ^ 
generally  we  rode  along  the  shelving  side,  occasionally  scrambling  up,  at    jj 
considerable  risk  of  tumbling  back  into  the  lake.  / 

The  slope  was  fretpienily  bO^;  the  pines  grew  dens-ely  together,  an  a 
the  ground  was  covered  with  the  branches  and  trunks  of  trees.  The  a  ^ 
was  fragrant  with  the  odor  of  the  pines;  audi  realized  this  dclighUi  * 
morning  the  pleasure  of  breathing  that  monnlain  air  wliich  makes  a  coi  '^ 
slant  theme  of  lie  hunter's  praise,  and  which  now  made  us  feel  as  if  w  „ 
liad  all  been  drinking  some  exhilarating  gas.  The  depths  of  this  umcn 
plored  forest  were  a  place  to  delight  the  heart  of  a  botanist.  There  wa  ^ 
a  rich  undcrgrowtii  of  plants,  and  numerous  gay-colored  flowers  in  bri:   f" 


:  from  our  rnrnrnj 
iiiar^iii  oi'  ihi!  la, 

/I  oil    till-  iiiiirr  MiJ 

I  ^row  w«'  (It'ari'dl 
Itii  li'lltKi  tiinlirr  at 
i  livo  licet  ill  litii>|J 
li  ilio  unitii.'ilN  wi 
1111(1  ijiu  liulc  \v<ir| 
Ity  isvclvo  rt'soli 

Wllicll   llll^llt  (  ||;i|  ' 

Killcon  oi"  thr  |„ 
nil  purty.  Our  pi 
hull,  Mofk  ol"  cull 
ml  u  tlirriiioiiK'ln 
iiisf  «Mir  compasv 
I  iriisiwortliy   m 

),  lil'iooii  ill  iiiiiiil 
."*.     A  pack  iiiiiii 
•  I  tliice  or  fiiiir 
Idle,  U)  avtvv  l'(ir  I 
L'ir  hacks.     VVr  r 
t  alii'i-  {•rossiiii,'  n 
licani  tilt!  roar,  a 
rroNsiiig  in  our  w 
I  wo  hours'  ride  > 
[a ins.     Ilcro,  ag,i 
ccuicd  as  il',  till 
1  over,  Nature  li 
'.     Wo  wore  ovi 
y  tliroo  lakes,  ai 
i  livo  iiuiidrod  ai 
saiu  /  iiJ,  rcliovi 
u>peii.     Thoy  >> 
waiors,  coiniiioM  i 
he  iinpossihio  i 
these  impassuli 
:y  wore  among  tl 
ering  trappers  i 
<o  our  way  alon 
)  of  angular  fViu 
r  our  mules,  In 
crambling  up,  ul 


ml 


CAI'T    FUKMOM'H  NAUItAIIVB- 


65 


J 


oly  together,  an 
of  trees.  The  ;i 
;ed  this  delightli 
lich  makes  a  coi 
e  us  feel  as  if  w 
)ths  of  this  uiiex 
mist.  There  wa 
d  flowers  in  bri: 


t 


ht  bloom.  W*»  riMchcil  tlu*  onilci  at  l.nj^ih,  wlirro  soino  lV»•^hly  IttirM'd 
lllows  that  lay  in  the  water  showeil  ihtii  l)i)u\i*r  hail  heoii  rocfiiliy  at  work 
\vro  wore  noiiii*  nniall  hmwii  stpiirri'l**  Jiiiii|*iii'.;  ahoiil  in  iho  pines,  and  a 
iipl(>  of  large  mallard  ducks  NWiiiiuiiiig  ahoui  in  (lt«<  Niream. 
The  hills  on  this  southern  eiiil  were  low,  and  iho  l.ike  lookc<l  like  a 
into  !oa,  as  the  waves  hioke  on  iht'  sandy  heach  in  the  lorei*  of  a  Mtrong 
M'/.o.  'riiirro  WHS  a  f)reiiy  open  Npol,  wilh  line  ;.'rass  f<»r  our  iiiulo.n;  and 
tiiiide  our  noon  halt  on  ih«;  heach,  under  the  shade  of  ^ollle  largo  hem- 
jls's.  \N'e  re-'Unicd  our  journey  iifirr  a  hall  of  ahoiit  an  !iour,  making  oiir 
'»y  lip  the  rid.;e  on  the  western  '  id»'  of  (he  l;d<e.  In  search  of  snioolhor 
)nnd,  wo  rodo  a  liltio  inl:iiid;  and,  passing  through  groves  of  aspen, soon 
Hid  ourselves  ai;iiin  among  the  pines.  Minirgiiig  frmn  the.se,  wo  striK  k 
tki'  Mtminit  o(  the  i'id.'>  ahovo  tl.i'  iijtper  «.>nd  of  ih«t  lake. 
^  Wo  had  reached  a  very  eh-valed  p<nnl  ;  and  in  the  valN?y  helow,  and 
tflioiig  the  hills,  were  a  nundier  of  l.ikos  at  dilferont  levels;  some  two  or 
iKfce  hniidrtMJ  foot  ahovo  oiliers,  wilh  which  ihey  communicated  hy  foam- 
Uh:  torrents.  Mven  to  our  'jreat  height,  the  roar  of  'he  caiarni  ts  came  n[i, 
fflil  we  ooiild  SCO  them  leaping  down  in  lines  of  snowy  foam.  Fr(*rn  ihi^ 
^iie  of  bii^y  waters,  wo  tin  nod  ahniptly  into  the  stillncsN  of  a  forest, 
frh'Ti!  w«!  rodo  among  the  ojioii  lolls  of  ihi!  pines,  over  a  lawn  of  verdant 
jAss,  having  strikiiiudy  ilie  air  <d"  niltivaiod  groiiiMN.  This  lod  us,  alter 
J^ine, among  masses  of  rock  which  had  no  vetr'-'lahlo  earth  hut  m  hollows 
Md  orevi(!es,  though  sfill  the  pine  forest  continnod.  Toward  evening,  wt» 
Mpi^hed  a  dolile.or  rather  a  htdc  in  the  mountains,  etiiircly  shut  in  l)y  dark 
jmiecovered  r<M'ks. 

'  A  small  stream,  with  a  scarcely  porceptihio  riirreiit,  (lowed  through  .i 
level  hotloin  (d'  peril. i[)s  eighty  yards  width,  wlu;ro  the  grass  was  saturated 
Wilh  water.  Into  this  Iho  mules  wore  turned,  and  were  in;iilior  hohhied 
^Or  picketed  during  the  nii,dil,  as  the  fiiu!  |)asturage  took  iway  all  tompta- 
flbn  to  stray;  and  wt;  made  our  hivouac  in  the  pines.  The  surrounding 
losst's  wore  all  of  granite.  VNJiili!  supper  was  hoing  l)repared,  1  set  out 
>h  ill!  oxcmsion  in  the  iiei'jhhorhood,  accowiimnied  hy  one  of  my  men. 
e  wandered  ahoiit  among  the  r;rags  and  r.aviiKis  until  dark,  richly  repaid 
for  our  walk  by  a  fine  collection  of  plants,  many  of  th«,'tn  in  full  bloom, 
^iconding  a  peak  to  find  the  place  of  our  (amp,  wo  saw  that  the  little 
Mfiie  in  which  W(5  lay  coinmunicaied  wilh  iho  long  green  valley  of  some 
jWroain,  which,  horr!  locked  up  in  the  mountains,  far  away  to  the  south, 
ifi|;Lind  its  way  in  a  dense  foresi  to  ihe  plains. 

Looking  along  its  upward  course,  il  seomed  to  conduct,  hy  a  smooth 
radual  slope,  directly  towarti  the  peak,  which,  from  long  consultation  as 
e  ai)proaclied  the  mountain,  we  had  decided  lo  bo  the  highest  of  the 
Pleased  with  the  discovery  of  so  fine  u  road  for  the  next  day,  we 
stoned  down  to  the  camp,  whore  we  arrived  just  in  time  for  supper, 
ur  table  service  was  rather  .scant;  and  we  hold  the  meat  in  our  hands, 
,d  clean  rocks  made  good  plates,  on  which  we  spread  our  maccarorn. 
niong  all  the  strange  places  on  which  we  had  occasion  to  encamp  during 
jBjlir  long  journey,  none  have  loft  so  vivid  an  impression  on  my  mind  as 
Che  camp  of  this  evening.  The  disorder  of  tl^e  masses  which  surrounded 
;  the  little  hole  through  which   we  saw  the  stars  overhead;  the  dark 


mnes  where  wo  slept;  and  the   rocks  lit  up  with  the  glow  of  our  fires, 

made  a  night  picture  of  very  wild  beauty. 

,,  tdugust  13. — The  raoniing  was  bright  and  pleasant,  just  cool  enough. 


^ 


r,e 


CAFT.  FREM0M"8  NARRATIVE. 


[1842. 


t''k4 


■I 


to  make  exercise  agrcea})lo,  niid  wo  soon  entered  the  dofilo  I  had  soon  the 
].rec(;(linLr  day.     It  was  smoothly  .arpeted  with  a  soft  grass,  and  scattered 
over  with  i,M-oups  of  llowers,  of  which  yellow  was  the  prcdoniinant  color.! 
Soruetiiiies  wo  were  forced, hy  an  occasional  difficult  pass, to  pick  our  way! 
on  f»  narrow  ledso  along  the  side  of  the  defile,  and  the  nuiles  were  fre- 
miently  on  their  knees;  hni  thise  oltslruclions  were  rare, and  we  journeyedl 
on  in  the  sweet  morning  air,  del^'j;hted  at  our  good  fortune  in  having  found 
such  a  beautiful  entrance  to  the  njountains.     This  road  continued  foi  about] 
three  miles,  wiieu  we  suddenly  reached  its  termination  in  one  ol  the  grand 
views  which,  at  every  turn,  n:t!(!l  the  traveller  in  this  magnificent  region. 
Here  the  dufiie  up  which  we  had  travelled  opened  out  into  a  small  lawn, 
where,  in  a  little  lake,  the  stream  had  its  source. 

There  were  some  fine  asters  in  bloom,  hut  all  the  flowering  plants  appear- 
ed to  seek  the  shelter  of  the  rocks,  and  to  be  of  lower  growth  than  below, 
as  if  they  loved  the  warmth  of  the  soil,  and  ke))t  out  of  the  way  of  the 
winds.  Immediately  at  our  feet  a  precipitous  descent  led  to  a  confusion 
of  defiles,  and  before  us  rose  the  mountains  as  we  have  represen'ed  them 
in  the  annexed  view.  It  is  not  by  the  splendor  of  fiir-olf  views,  which 
have  lent  such  a  glory  to  the  Alps,  that  these  im])ress  the  mind ;  but  by  a 
gigantic  disorder  of  enormous  masses,  and  a  savage  subliuiity  of  naked 
rock,  iu  wonderful  contrast  with  innumerable  green  spots  of  a  rich  floral 
beauty,  shut  up  in  tlieir  stem  reces>es.  Their  wildness  seeuis  well  suited 
0  the  character  of  the  j)eoi)ie  who  iidiabit  the  country. 

I  determined  to  leave  our  anhnals  here,  and  make  the  rest  of  our  way  on 
foot.  The  peak  appeared  so  near,  that  there  was  no  doubt  of  our  returning 
before  night;  and  a  lew  miii  were  lefi  in  charge  of  the  amies,  with  our  pro- 
visions and  blankets.  We  took  willi  us  nothing  but  our  arms  and  instru- 
)nents,  and,  as  the  day  had  become  warm,  the  greater  part  left  our  coats. 
Having  made  an  early  dinner,  we  started  again.  We  weie  soon  involved 
in  the  most  lagged  precipices.  Hearing  the  central  chain  very  slowly,  and 
rising  but  little.  Tlie  first  ridge  hid  a  succession  of  others;  and  when,  with 
great  fatigue  and  ditliculty,  we  had  climbed  up  five  hundred  feet,  it  was  but 
to  make  an  equal  descent  on  the  other  side  ;  all  these  intervening  places 
Avere  filled  with  small  deep  laicos,  which  met  the  eye  in  every  direction, 
descending  from  one  level  to  another,  sometimes  under  bridgi^s  formed  by 
huge  fragments  of  granite,  beneath  which  was  heard  the  roar  of  the  water. 
These  constantly  obstructed  oin-  path,  forcing  us  to  make  \o\vi,  d6loiirs ; 
frequently  obliged  to  retrace  our  steps,  and  frequently  falling  among  the 
rocks.  Maxwell  was  precipitated  toward  the  face  of  a  precipice,  and  saved 
himself  from  going  over  by  throwing  himself  flat  on  the  ground.  We 
clambered  on,  always  ex|")ecting,  with  every  ridge  that  we  crossed,  to 
reach  the  foot  of  the  peaks,  and  always  disappointed,  until  about  four 
o'clock,  when,  pretty  well  wt^rn  out,  we  reached  the  shore  of  a  little  lake, 
in  which  was  a  rocky  island.  We  remained  here  a  short  time  to  rest, 
and  continued  on  around  the  lake,  which  had  in  some  places  a  beach  of 
white  sand,  and  in  others  was  bound  with  rocks,  over  which  the  way 
was  diflicult  and  dangerous,  as  the  water  from  innumerable  springs  made 
them  very  slippery. 

By  the  time  we  had  reached  the  further  side  of  the  lake,  we  found  our- 
selves all  exceedingly  fatigued,  and,  much  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  whole 
party,  we  encamped.  The  spot  we  had  chosen  was  a  broad  flat  rock,  in 
some  measure  protected  from  the  winds  by  the  surrounding  crags,  and  the 


■run 


less,  a 


[1842. 

had  seen  t!ie| 
iiid  scuttored 
luiiKiiit  color.  I 
pick  our  way 
lies  were  fre- 
,ve  jouriioyed 
liaviug  found 
Lied  I'oi  about 
!  ol  the  grand  1 
ificeiit  region, 
a.  small  lawn, 

(lants  appear- 
1  lliau  below, 
le  way  of  the 
o  a  confusion 
esou'ed  ihem 
views,  which 
iiid;  but  by  a 
nity  of  naked 
f  a  rich  floral 
ns  well  suited 

of  our  way  on 
our  returning 
with  our  pro- 
ns  and  uistru- 
cft  our  coats, 
soon  involved 
y  slowlVj  ^i-iid 
id  when,  with 
Oct,  it  was  but 
veiling  places 
;ry  direction, 
i;s  formed  by 
of  the  water, 
ong  ddtoiirs ; 
ig  among  the 
ice,and  saved 
ground.     We 
e   crossed,  to 
I  about  four 
a  little  lake, 
time  to  rest, 
es  a  beach  of 
lich  the  way 
springs  made 

^e  found  our- 
of  the  whole 
flat  rock,  in 
rags,  and  the 


842.] 


CAPT.   F-R?1M0NT'S  \.\RR ATIVE. 


67 


Tunks  of  fallen  pinos  aflnrded  u.s  l)rigiu  fires.     Near  by  was  a  foaming  tor- 
eiit,  which  tumbled  into  the  little  lake  about  one  hundred  and   fifty  feet 
elow  us,  and  which,  by  way  of  distinction,  we  have  called  Island  lake. 
rVe  had  reached  the  upper  limit  of  the  piney  region  ;  as,  above  ihisiwint, 
0  tree  was  to  be  seen,  and  patches  of  snow  lay  every  where  around  us  on 
he  cold  sides  of  the  rocks.     The  llora  of  the  region  we  had  traversed  since 
caving  our  mules  was  extremely  rich,  and, among  the  characteristic  plants, 
he  scarlet  flowers  of  the  dothcathcon  iletittttuni  every  where  met  the  eye 
a  great  abundance.     A  small  gre(!n  ravine,  on  the  edge  of  which  we  were 
jiicaniped,  was  filled  with  a  profusion  of  alpiiic  phiiits  in   brilliant  bloom, 
'rom  barometrical  observations,  made  during  our  three  days'  sojourn  at 
this  place,  its  elevation  a])Ove  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  is  10,000  feet.     During 
the  day,  we  had  seen  no  sign  ol  animal  life  ;  but  among  tlu;  rocks  here,  we 
heard  what  was  supposed  to  be  the  bleat  of  a  young  gout,  which  we  search- 
ed for  with  hungry  activity,  and  found  to  proceed  from  a  small  animal  of  a 
|rray  color,  with  short  ears  and  no  tail — probably  the  Siberian  squirrel.  We 
f\\\  a  considerable  number  of  thorn,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  bird 
like  a  sparrow,  it  is  the  only  inhabitant  of  this  elevated  part  of  the  moun- 
tains.    On  our  return,  we  saw,  below  this  lake,  large  flocks  of  the  mountain 
|:()at.     We  had  nothing  lo  eat  to-night.     Lajeunesse,  with  several  others, 
Tcok  their  guns,  and  sallied  out  in  search  of  a  goat;  but  returned  unsuccess- 
iil.     At  sunset,  the  baromt^ter  stood  at  20.522  :  the  attacln  d  thermometer 
0°.     Here  we  had  tiie  misfortune  to  break  our  ihennometcr,  having  now 
(Duly  that  attached  to  the  barometer.     I  was  taken  ill  shortly  after  we  had 
encamped,  and  continued  so  until  lute  in  the  inght,  with  violent  headache 
pnd  vomiting.     Tiiis  was  |)robably  caused  by  the  excessive  fatigue  I  iiad 
Undergone,  and  want  of  food,  ;iiid  perhaps,  also,  in  some  measure,  by  the 
%urity  of  the  air.     'I'he  night  was  cold,  as  a  violent  gale  from  the  north  had 
fl'rung  up  at  sunset,  which  entirely  blew  away  the  heat  of  the  fires.     The 
told,  and  our  granite  beds,  had  not  been  favorable  to  sleep,  and  we  were 
glad  to  see  the  face  of  the  sun  in  the  morning.     Not  being  delayed  by  any 
Jiroparation  for  breakfast,  we  set  out  immediately. 

On  every  side  as  we  advtuiced  was  heard  the  roar  of  waters,  and  of  a 
torrent,  which  we  followed  up  a  short  distance,  until  it  expanded  into  a  lake 
ifibout  one  mile  in  length.  On  the  northern  side  of  the  lake  M-as  a  bank  of 
Ice,  or  rather  of  snow  covered  with  a  crust  of  ice.  Carson  had  been  our 
|nide  into  the  mountains,  and,  agreeably  to  his  advice,  we  left  this  little 
i'alley,  and  took  to  the  ridges  again  ;  which  we  Ibund  extremely  broken, 

Iiiid  where  we  were  again  involved  among  precipices.  Here  were  ice  fields; 
iniong  which  we  were  all  dispersed,  seeking  each  the  best  path  to  ascend 
he  peak.  Mr.  Preuss  attempted  to  walk  along  the  upper  edge  of  one  of 
hese  fields,  wliich  sloped  away  at  an  angle  of  r.bout  twenty  degrees;  but  his 
eet  slipped  from  under  him,  and  he  went  plunging  down  the  plane.  A  few 
undred  feet  below,  at  the  bottom,  were  some  fragments  of  sharp  rock,  »n 
diich  he  landed  ;  and  though  he  turned  a  couple  of  somersets,  fortunately 
eceived  no  injury  beyond  a  few  bruises.  Two  of  the  men,  Clement  Lam- 
ert  and  Descoteaux,  had  been  taken  ill,  and  lay  down  on  the  rocks  a  short 
istance  below  ;  and  at  this  point  I  was  attacked  with  headache  and  giddi- 
ess,  accompanied  by  vomiting,  as  on  the  day  before.  Finding  myself  iin- 
I'le  to  proceed,  I  sent  the  barometer  over  to  Mr.  Prenss,  who  was  in  a  gap 
wo  or  three  hundred  yards  distant,  desiring  him  to  reach  the  peak,  if  pos- 
sible, and  take  an  observation  there.     He  found  himself  unable  to  proceed 


.■'\*K  I 


1)8 


(JAPT.   FREMONT'S  NAHRATIN  K. 


[1842] 


-■^;f 


l^% 


further  in  tliut  direction,  and  took  an  observation,  wlicre  the  barometer  stooil 
sit  19.401  ;  attached  iherruoinetur  .50°,  in  the  uap.  Carson,  who  had  goni| 
over  to  him,  sacci!C(U;d  in  reaching  one  oi  t\io.  snowy  summits  of  the  main 
ridf^e,  whence  he  saw  the  peak  towards  which  all  our  fjfforts  had  been  (JiJ 
reeled,  towering  eight  or  ten  hundred  feet  into  the  air  above  him.  In  thef 
mean  time,  fhiding  myst'lf  grow  rather  worse  than  better,  a'ld  doubtful  howl 
tar  my  strength  would  carry  me,  I  sent  Basil  Lajcunesse,  with  four  mei: 
back  to  the  place  where  the  nmles  had  b(!en  left. 

We  were  now  better  acquainted  with  the  topograpliy  oflhe  country, ai; 
I  directed  him  to  bring  back  with  him,  if  it  were  in  any  way  possible,  fon 
or  five  mules,  with  provisions  auil  blaidcets.  With  nie  wore  Alaxwell  an. 
Ayer ;  and  after  we  had  remained  nearly  an  iiour  on  the  rock,  it  becanif! » 
unpleasantly  cold,  though  the  day  was  bright,  that  we  set  out  on  our  reliin 
to  the  camp,  at  which  we  all  arrived  safely,  straggling  in  one  after  the  othe; 
1  coniiiuied  ill  during  the  afternoon,  but  became  better  towards  sundowi 
when  my  recovery  was  completed  by  the  appearance  of  Hasil  and  foil: 
men,  all  mounted.  The  men  wiio  had  gone  with  him  had  been  too  muci 
fatigued  to  return,  and  were  relieved  by  those  in  charge  of  the  horses;  bu 
in  his  powers  of  endurance  liasil  resembled  more  a  mountain  goat  than 
man.  They  brought  blankets  and  provisions,  and  we  enjoyed  well  our  drie 
nieat  and  a  cup  of  good  coffee.  We  rolled  ourselves  tip  in  our  blankets 
and,  with  our  feet  turned  to  a  blazing  fire,  slept  soundly  until  morning. 

Jlxio-ust  15. — It  had  been  supposed  that  we  had  finished  with  the  moui. 

tains;  and  the  evening  l)efor(!,  it  had  been  arranged  that  Carson  should  sc 

oui  at  daylight,  and  return  to  breakfast  at  the  Camp  of  the  iMules,  takin. 

with  him  all  but  four  or  i'we  men,  who  were  to  stay  with  me  and  bring  bac: 

the  mules  and  instruments.     Accordingly,  at  the  break  of  day  iliey  set  on 

With  Mr.  Prcuss  and  myself  remained  Basil  Lajcunesse,  Clement  Lamber 

Janisse,  and  Descoteaux.     Wlien  we  had  secured  strength  for  the  day  b 

a  hearty  breakfast,  we  covered  what  remained,  wiiich  was  enough  for  or. 

meal,  with  rocks,  in  order  that  it  might  be  safe  from  any  marauding  bird 

and  saddling  our  n)ules,  turned  our  laces  once  more  towards  the  peak: 

This  time  we  determined  to  proceed  quietly  and  catUiously,  deliberate: 

resolved  to  accouiplish  our  object  if  it  were  within  the  compass  of  hunia 

means.     We  were  of  opinion  that  a  long  defile  which  lay  to  the  left  of  ye: 

terdav's  route  would  lead  us  to  the  foot  of  the  main  peak.     Our  mules  ha 

been  refreshed  by  the  fine  grass  in  the  little  ravine  at  the  Island  camp,  ai. 

we  intended  to  ride  up  the  defile  as  far  as  possible,  in  order  to  husband  ot 

strength  for  the  main  ascent.     Though  this  was  a  fine  passage,  still  it  wa 

a  defile  of  the  most  rugged  mountains  known,  and  we  had  many  a  rom: 

and  steep  slippery  place  to  cross  before  reaching  the  end.     In  this  place  tl. 

smi  rarely  shone  ;  snow  lay  along  the  border  of  the  small  stream  whic: 

flowed  through  it,  and  occasional  icy  passages  made  the  footing  of  the  mu'.i 

very  insecure,  and  the  rocks  and  ground  were  moist  with  the  trickliL 

waters  in  this  spring  of  mighty  rivers.     Wc  soon  had  the  satisfaction! 

find  ourselves  riding  along  the  huge  wall  which  forms  the  central  summi; 

of  the  chain.     There  at  last  it  rose  by  our  sides,  a  nearly  perpendicular  wa 

of  gra,nite,  terminating  2,000  to  3,000  feet  above  our  heads  in  a  serrated  lii: 

of  broken,  jagged  cones.     We  rode  on  until  we  came  almost  immediate, 

below  the  main  peak,  which  I  denominated  the  Snow  peak,  as  it  exhibite 

more  snow  to  the  eye  than  any  of  the  neighboring  summits.     Here  we; 

tiu"ee  small  lakes  of  a  green  color,  each  of  perhaps  a  thousand  yards  . 


■  {■ 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  XARKATIVi: 


«if» 


L!  barometer  stood 
11,  who  had  gone 
iniits  of  the  main 
forts  had  been  (jJ 
ove  him.  In  thi 
i:id  doubtful  houj 
,  with  four  meiij 

fthe  country, ai: 

ray  possible,  foii 

ere  Ala X well  an. 

'ock,  it  became  si 

out  on  our  retiiri 

ne  after  the  otlie; 

owards  sundowi 

•f  IJasil  and  foii: 

d  been  too  muc: 

>f  the  horses ;  bb 

tain  goat  than 

/ed  well  our  drie 

in  our  blanketj 

Luitii  morning. 

d  with  the  moui. 

Carson  should  sc 

lie  Mules,  takin. 

ne  and  bring  bao; 

[  day  tiiey  set  on; 

Element  Lamber 

1  for  the  day  b 

IS  enoush  for  or. 

marauding  bird 

wards  the  peat 

usly,  deliberate! 

ompass  of  hunia 

to  the  left  of  ye: 

Our  mules  ha 

sland  camp,  ai; 

r  to  husband  oi; 

ssage,  still  it  wa 

ad  many  a  roug: 

In  this  place  tl, 

lall  stream  whic 

3tii)gof  themiik 

ith  the  tricklir. 

le  satisfaction  i 

central  snmmi; 

rpendicular  wa 

in  a  serrated  lii:: 

lost  immediate 

k,  as  it  exhibitc 

lits.     Here  we. 

lousand  yards  . 


lameter,  and  apparently  very  deep.     These  lay  in  a  kind  of  ('hasm ;  ami, 
:cording 


to  the  barometer,  we  had  attained  but  a  few  hiiiidrrd  feet  above 


eei  aoo 
e  Island  lake.     The  barometer  here  stood  at  20.45(J,  attached  therniome- 
r  70°. 

We  managed  to  get  our  mules  u\)  to  a  little  bench  abt)ut  a  hundred  feet 
ove  the  lakes,  where  there  was  a  patch  of  gO(»d  grass,  and  turned  them 
ose  to  graze.  During  our  rough  ride  to  this  place,  tln^y  had  exhibited  a 
oiidcrful  surefootedness.  I'arts  of  the  defile  weie  filled  with  angular, 
lar})  fragments  of  rock,  three  or  four  and  eight  or  ten  feet  cube;  anil  among 
io.se  they  had  worked  their  way,  leaj)ing  from  one  narrow  point  to  another, 
rely  making  a  false  sti;)),  and  giving  us  no  occasion  to  disniDUnl.  Having 
iivested  ourselves  of  every  unnecessary  encumbrance,  we  conunenced  the 
cent.  This  time,  lilci;  experiiniced  travellers,  we  did  not  press  ourselves, 
t  climbed  leisurely,  sitting  down  so  soon  as  we  louiid  breath  beginning 
fail.  At  intervals  we  reached  places  where!  a  luinilier  of  springs  gushed 
•oni  the  rocks,  and  about  1,800  feet  above  the  lakes  came  to  ihes'.iow  line, 
roni  this  point  our  progress  was  uninterrupted  climbing.  Hitherto  I  had 
,'orn  a  pair  ol  thick  moccasins,  with  soles  of  parjlcche;  but  here  I  put  on 
light  thin  pair,  which  I  had  brought  for  the  purpose,  as  now  the  use  of 
ur  toes  b(!Came  necessary  to  a  further  advance.  Invailed  myself  of  a  sort 
f  comb  of  the  mountain,  which  stood  against  tin;  wall  like  a  buttress,  and 
diicli  the  wind  and  the  solar  radiation,  joined  to  the  steepness  of  tlie  smooth 
ock,  had  kept  almost  entirely  free  from  snow.  Up  this  I  made  my  way 
apidly.  Our  cautious  method  of  advancing  in  the  outset  bad  s])ared  my 
trength  ;  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  slight  dis[)Osition  to  headache,  I  felt 

10  remains  of  yesterday's  illiiess.  In  a  few  minutes  we  reached  a  point 
Inhere  the  buttress  was  overhanging,  and  there  was  no  other  way  ol  sur- 

ouuting  the  difficulty  than  by  passing  around  one  sid(j  of  it,  which  was 

le  face  of  a  vortical  piecipice  of  several  hundred  feet. 

Putting  hands  and  I'eet  iu  the  crevices  between  the  i)iocks,  1  succeeded 

getting  over  it,  and,  when  I  reached  the  top,  found  my  companions  in  a 

mall  valley  below.     Descending  to  them,  we  continued  climbing,  and  in 

short  time  reached  the  crest.     I  sprang  upon  the   summit,  and  another 

tep  would  have  precipitated  me  into  an  iuiinense  snow  field  five  hundred 

eet  below.     To  the  edge  of  this  field  was  a  sheer  icy  precipice  ;  and  then, 

^ith  a  gradual  Tall,  the  field  sloped  ofl'  for  about  a  mile,  until  it  struck  the 

bot  of  another  lower  ridge.     I  stood  on  a  narrow  crest,  about  three  feet  in 

:  vidth,  with  an  inclination  of  about  20°  N.  51°  E.     As  soon  as  I  had  grati- 

ied  the  first  feelings  of  curiosity,  I  descended,  and  each  man  ascended  in 

lis  turn;  for  I  would  only  allow  one  at  a  time  to  nioiinl  the  unstable  and 

1  )recarious  slab,  which  it  seemed  a  breath  would  hurl  into  the  abyss  below. 

:;  ^Ve  mounted  the  barometer  in  the  snow  of  the  summit,  and,  fixing  a  ramrod 

11  a  crevice,  unfurled  the  national  Hag  to  wave  in  the  breeze  where  never 
lag  waved  before.  During  our  morning's  ascent,  we  had  met  no  sign  of 
mimal  life,  except  the  small  sparrow-like  bird  already  mentioned.  A  still- 
ness the  most  profound  and  a  terrible  solitude  forced  themselves  constantly 
DU  the  mind  as  the  great  features  of  the  place.     Here,  on  the  summit,  where 

mhe  stillness  was  absolute,  unbroken  by  any  sound,  and  the  solitude  com- 

T)lele,  we  thought  ourselves  beyond  the  region  of  animated  lite;  but  while 

.^ve  were  sitting  on  the  rock,  a  solitary  bee  (bromus,  tfic  humble  bee)  came 

f^vinging  his  flight  from  the  eastern  valley,  and  lit  on  the  kiiee  of  one  of  the 


»•■■ 
I'J 

I 


m 


5fi  '. 


4 


'    M 


70 


CAIT.  Fi{i:.\i()NTVs  n.\ki;ati\  i:. 


>■■ 


i-f^m 


[1842 


It  was  a  SI  range  place,  the  icy  rock  and  iho  liiij'Iiosi  peak  of  the  Rockjl 
niouiitaiiis,  (or  a  lover  of  warm  suiisliiiio  and  llowors  ;  and  we  pleased  ourl 
solves  wiiii  the  idea  that  he  was  the  first  of  Ins  specie    to  cross  the  mountaiJ 
barrier — a  solitary  pioneer  to  foretell  the  advance  of  (Mvilization.     I  believe! 
that  a  inonienl's  thon-jht  would  have  made  ns  let  him  continue  liis  way  uiiJ 
liarnied  ;  but  we  carried  out  the  law  of  thisconntry,  where  all  animated  iiaJ 
ture  seems  at  war;  and,  seizing  him  innnediately,  put  him  in  at  least  a  fi] 
place — in  the  leaves  ot'  a  large  book,  among  the  dowers  wtj  liad  collects 
on  our  way.     The  barometer  stood  at  18.293,  the  attached  thermometer  a:| 
44°;  givinu^  for  the  (Hevatiou  of  this  summit  1:3,570  feet  above  tfie  Gulf  o;| 
Mexico,  which  may  be  called  the  highest  (liifht  of  iIh;  bee.     It  is  certaiiil;/ 
the  highest  known  Higlit  of  that  insect.     From  liie  description  given  liy 
Macket)zie  of  the  moimtains  where  he  cro'^sed  them,  with  that  of  a  Fienc! 
officer  still  farther  to  the  north,  and  Colonel   Long's  measurements  to  tli' 
south,  joined  to  the  opinion  of  the  oldest  traders  of  the  country,  it  is  pro 
sumed  that  this  is  the  highest  jieakof  the  Uocky  mountains.     The  day  wa 
sunny  and  bright,  but  a  slight  shining  mist  hung  over  tlie  lower  plains 
which  interfered  with  our  view  of  the  surrounding  country.     On  one  sid' 
we  overlooked  innumerable  lakes  and  streams,  the  spring  of  the  Colorado  o: 
the  Gulf  of  California  ;  and  on  the  otiier  was  the  Wind  river  valley,  whcrt 
were  the  heads  of  the  Yellowstone  branch  of  the  Missouri  ;  far  to  the  north, 
we  just  could  discover  the  snowy  heads  of  the  Trots  Teions,  where  were 
the  sources  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  rivers;  and  at  the  southern  e.v 
tremily  of  the  ridge,  the  peaks  were   j^lainly  visible,  among  which  wen; 
some  of  the  springs  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte  river.    Around  us,  the  whol'; 
scene  had  one  mam  striking  feat.ire,  which  was  that  of  terrible  convulsion 
Parallel  to  its  length,  the  ridge  was  split  into  chasms  and  fissures;  betweei 
which   rose  the  thin  lofty  walls,  terminated  with   slender  minarets  atn; 
columns.     According  to  the  barometer,  the  little  crest  of  the  wall  on  whicl. 
we  stood  was  three  thousand  five  hundred  and  seventy  feet  above  that  place, 
and  two  thoasand  seven  hundred  and  eighty  above  the  little  lakes  at  tlit 
bottom,  immediately  at  our  feet.     Our  camp  at  the  Two  Hills  (an  astrO' 
nomical  station)  bore  south  3'^  east,  which,  with  a  bearing  afterward  ob' 
tained  from  a  fixed  position,  enabled  us  to  locate  the  peak.     The  bearing 
of  the  Trois  Tetons  was  north  50°  west,  and  the  direction  of  the  centra 
ridge  of  the  Wind  river  mountains  south  .39°  east.     The  summit  rock  wa; 
gneiss,  succeeded  by  sienitic  gneiss.     Sienite  and  feldspar  succeeded  ii. 
our  descent  to  the  snow  line,  where  we  found  a  teldspathic  granite.    I  hac 
remarked  that  the  noise  produced  by  the  ex|)losion  of  our  pistols  had  the 
usual  degree  of  loudness,  but  was  not  in  the  least  prolonged,  expiring  al- 
most instantaneously.     Having  now  made  what  observations  our  meaiL^ 
atForded,  we  proceeded  to  descend.     We  had  accomplished  an  object  ol 
laudable  ambition,  and  beyond  the  strict  order  of  our  instructions.     We 
liad  climbed  the  loftiest  peak  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  looked  down 
upon  the  snow  a  thousand  feet  below,  and,  standing  where  never  humai. 
foot  had  stood  before,  felt  the  exultation  of  first  explorers.     It  was  about  2 
o'clock  when  we  left  the  summit ;  and  when  we  reached  the  bottom,  the  sui. 
had  already  sunk  behind  the  wall,  and  the  day  was  drawing  to  a  close.    It 
would  have  been  pleasant  to  have  lingered  here  and  on  the  summit  longer 
but  we  hurried  away  as  rapidly  as  the  ground  would  permit,  for  it  was  ai. 
object  to  regain  our  party  as  soon  as  possible,  not  knowing  what  accideii 
the  next  hour  might  bring  forth. 


m 
or 


UAIT.   FI:E.M()NTS  NAHKATH  e. 


:i 


nk  of  the  RockJ 

we  pleased  our] 

)ss  the  mountain 

itiou.     I  believJ 

nuc  his  way  imJ 

all  animated  naj 

t  in  at  least  a  fii 

'^o  iiad  collector 

thermometer  a:l 

ovo  the  Gulf'ol 

It  is  certaiiil,' 

iption  given  liy 

hat  ot'a  Fienc! 

iirements  to  tli' 

)untry,  it  is  pre 

!.    The  day  wa 

le  lower  plaiiiv 

^     On  one  sid 

'  the  Colorado  o: 

er  valley,  w her: 

far  to  the  north 

»/^s,  where  were 

lie  southern  e.v 

»ng  which  were 

lid  us,  the  whole 

ihic  convulsion 

isures;  betweei 

!r  minarets  ani; 

c  wall  on  whicl. 

hove  that  place, 

tie  lakes  at  tlit 

Hills  (an  astrO' 

afterward  ol- 

.     The  bearing 

1  of  the  centra 

mtnit  rock  wa^ 

r  succeeded 

grruiite.    I  hao 

pistols  had  the 

[■d,  expiring  ai- 

ons  our  mean; 

'.d  an  object  oi 

ructions.     We 

looked  dowi. 

never  humai. 

It  was  about  2 

30ttom,  the  siii. 

to  a  close.    It 

summit  longer 

,  for  it  was  ai. 

what  accideii 


! 


We  reached  our  dipositc  oi'  provisions  ;a  iii^hlfail.  Here  was  not  the 
nn  wlii'-li  awaits  the  tired  travelhu*  on  hi^  return  iVom  Mont  Hlanc,  or  the 
range  groves  oi  South  Amijrica,  with  their  refreshing  juices  and  soft  fra- 
rant  air  ;  hut  we  found  our  little  c(tc/ie  of  dried  inc. it  and  coffee  undis- 
luhed.  Though  the  moon  was  bright,  the  ro:id  wrxs  full  of  pnieipices,  and 
he  fatigue  of  the  day  had  been  great.  We  therefore  ahaiiduned  the  idea 
f  njoining  our  friends,  and  lay  down  on  the  rock,  and,  in  spile  of  the 
[cold,  slept  soundly. 

Jlui^nst  Ki. — We  left  our  encainjimeiit  with  the  daylight.     We  saw  on 

our  way  large;  nf)eks  of  the  mountain  goat  looking  down  on  us  from  the 

ill's.     At  the  crack  of  a  rifle,  they  would  hound  off  among  the  rocks,  and 

*in  a  few  niinnies  make  their  appearance  on  some  lofty  j)eak,  some  hundreil 

or  a  thousand  feet  above.    It  is  needless  to  attempt  ar,y  further  description 

of  the  country  ;  the  portion  over  which  we   travelled   this  morning  was 

•rough  as  imagination  could  picture  it,  and  to  us  seemed  equally  beautiful. 

;A  concourse  of  lakes  and  rushing  waters,  mountains  of  rocks  naked  and 

'destitute  of  V"LHUablc  earth,  dells  and  ravines  of  the  most  exquisite  beauty, 

■all  kept  gre(;n  and  fresh  by  the  great  moisture  in  the  air,  and  sown  with 

|brilliant  flowers,  and  every  where  thrown  around  all  the  glory  of  most  mag- 

Inificent  scenes:  these  constitute  the  features  of  the  place,  and  impress  them- 

iselves  vividly  on  the  mind  of  the  traveller.  It  was  not  until  11  o'clock  that 

we  reached  the  place  where  our  animals  had  been  left,  when  wc  first  at- 

jtempted  the  mountains  on  foot.     Near  one  of  the  still  burning  fires  we 

•ffound  a  piece  of  meat,  which  our  friends  had  thrown  away,  and  which 

•  furnished  us  a  mouthful — a  very  scanty  br.^akfast.     We  continued  directly 

Jon,  and  reached  our  camp  on  the  mountain  lake  at  dusk.     Wc  found  all 

well.     Nothing  had  occurred  to  interrupt  the  ({uiet  since  our  departure, 

land  the  fine  grass  and  good  cool  water  had  done  much  to  re-establish 

;'our  animals.     All  iieard  with  great  delight  the  order  to  turn  our  faces 

'homeward;  and  toward  sundown  of  the  17th,  we  encamped  again  at  the 

tTwo  Bultes. 

In  the  course  of  this  afternoon's  march,  the  barometer  was  broken  past 
remedy.  I  regretted  it,  as  I  was  desirous  lo  com[)are  it  again  with  Dr.  En- 
gclman's  barometers  at  St.  Louis,  to  whicli  mine  were  referred  ;  but  it  had 
done  its  part  well,  and  my  objects  were  mainly  fulfilled. 

,/lugiist  19. — We  left  our  camp  on  Little  Sandy  river  about  7  in  the 

ii      morning,  and  traversed  the  same  sandy,  imdulating  country.     The  air  was 

:iilled  with  the  turpentine  scent  of  the  various  artemifiias,  which  are  now 

.in  bloom,  and,  numerous  as  they  arc,  give  much  gayety  to  the  landscape 

of  the  plains.     At  10  o'clock,  we  stood  exactly  on  tlie  divide  in  the  pass, 

where  the  wagon  road  crosses, an-J,  descending  immediately  upon  the  Sweet 

*Water,  halted  to  take  a  meridian  observation  of  the  sun.  The  latitude  was 

42°  24'  32". 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  we  saw  buffalo  again,  and  at  our  evening 

'halt  on  the  Sweet  Water  the  roasted  ribs  again  made  their  appearance 

around  the  fires  ;  and,  with  them,  good  humor,  and  laughter, and  song,  were 

restored  to  t'^e  camp.  Our  coffee  had  been  expended,  but  we  now  made  a 

kind  or  tea  from  the  roots  of  the  wild  cherry  tree. 

%/ius;ust  23. — Yesterday  evening  we  readied  our  encampment  at  Rock 
Independence,  where  I  took  some  astronomical  observations.  Here,  not 
unmindful  of  the  custom  of  early  travellers  and  explorers  in  our  country. 


7a 


CAPT.  FnEM0Nr8  N.\RI5ATIVi:. 


[I84M 


i     "^l^U, 


!! 


iti 


py^: 


I  engraved  on  tliis  rock  of  the  Far  West  a  symbol  of  the  Christian  faithJ 
Aiiiong  the  thickly  iui-cnbed  names,  1  niade  on  tlie  hard  granite  the  inij 
pressioii  of  a  huge  cross,  which  I  covered  with  a  bhick  preparation  of  IndJ 
rubber,  well  caicnlatc^d  to  resist  the  inihionce  of  wind  and  rain.  It  standJ 
amidst  the  names  of  many  who  liave  long  since  found  their  way  to  tlic| 
grave,  and  for  whom  the  hui;c  rock  is  a  giant  gravestone. 

One  Oeorgo  Weymonth  was  sent  out  to  Maine  by  the  Earl  of  SouthJ 
ampton.  Lord  Arundel,  and  others  ;  and  in  the  narrative  of  tluiir  discoveries] 
he  says:  "The  next  day.  we  ascended  in  our  pinnace  that  part  of  tliej 
river  which  lies  more  to  the  westward,  carrying  with  us  a  cross — a  thiii:| 
never  omitted  by  any  Chrisiian  traveller — which  we  erected  at  the  ullimaii: 
end  of  our  route/'  This  was  in  the  year  1605  ;  and  in  1812  I  obeyed  tlit 
feeling  of  early  travellers,  and  left  the  impression  of  the  cross  deeply  en- 
graved on  the  vast  lock  one  thousand  miles  hiyond  the  Mississipj); 
to  which  discoverers  have  given  the  national  name  of  liock  Indepoiilvna 

In  obedience  to  my  instructions  to  survey  the  river  Platte,  if  possible,! 
had  determined  to  make  an  atteuipt  at  this  place.  The  India-rubber  boa; 
■was  filled  with  air,  placed  in  the  water,  and  loaded  with  what  was  neces 
sary  for  our  operations;  and  I  embarked  with  Mr,  Preuss  and  a  party  o: 
men.  When  we  had  dragged  our  boat  for  a  mile  or  two  over  the  sands,  1 
abandoned  the  impossible  underiaking,  and  waited  (or  the  arrival  of  tin 
party,  when  we  packed  up  our  boat  and  eipiipage,  and  at  9  o'clock  were 
again  moving  along  on  our  land  journey.  We  continued  along  the  valley 
on  the  right  bank  of  tlie  Sweet  VVater,  where  the  formation,  as  already  de- 
scribed, consists  of  a  grayish  micaceous  sandstone,  and  fme-grained  con- 
glomerate, and  marl.  We  passed  over  a  ridge  which  borders  or  constitute; 
the  river  hills  of  the  Platte,  consisting  of  huge  blocks,  sixty  or  eighty  fee! 
cube,  of  decomposing  granite.  The  cement  which  united  them  was  i)roba- 
bly  of  easier  decomposition,  and  has  disappeared  and  left  them  isolate,  and 
separated  by  small  spaces.  Numerous  horns  of  the  mountain  goat  werr 
lying  among  the  rocks  ;  and  in  the  ravines  were  cedars,  whose  trunks  were 
of  extraordinary  size.  From  this  ridge  we  descended  to  a  small  open  plain 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water,  which  rushed  with  a  rapid  current  into 
the  Platte,  here  flowing  along  in  a  broad,  tranquil,  and  nppareiuly  dee) 
stream,  which  seemed,  from  its  turbid  appearance,  to  be  considerably 
swollen.  I  obtained  here  some  astronomical  observations,  and  the  after- 
noon was  spent  in  getting  our  boat  ready  for  navigation  the  next  day. 

,,Jiigusl  24. — We  started  before  sunrise,  intending  to  breakfast  at  Goat 
island.  I  had  directed  the  land  party,  in  charge  of  Bernier,  to  i)roceed  tc 
this  place,  where  they  were  to  remain,  should  they  find  no  note  to  apprize 
ihem  of  our  having  passed.  In  the  event  of  receiving  this  information, 
they  were  to  continue  their  route,  passing  by  certain  places  which  had  been 
designated.  Mr.  Preuss  accompanied  me,  and  with  us  were  five  of  my 
best  men,  viz:  C.  Lambert,  Hasil  Lnjeunesse,  llonore  Ayot,  Benoist,  and 
Descoteaux.  Here  appeared  no  scarcity  of  water,  and  we  took  on  board, 
with  various  instruments  and  baggage,  provisions  for  ten  or  twelve  days. 
We  paddled  down  the  river  rapidly,  for  our  little  craft  was  light  as  a  duck 
on  the  water;  and  the  sun  had  been  some  time  risen,  when  we  heard  before 
Tis  a  hollow  roar,  which  we  supposed  to  be  that  of  a  fall,  of  which  we  had 
heard  a  vague  rumor,  l.ut  whose  exact  locality  no  one  had  been  able  to  de- 
scribe tc  us.  We  were  approaching  a  ridge,  through  which  the  river  passes 


!  \f$ 


TAPT.  I'REMONr.S  NARRATIVE. 


73 


)  Earl  of  South] 
.ln'ir  (lisc()V(;ric<] 
lliat  part  of  tlif] 
I  cross — II  tliiii:| 
d  ut  tli(f  ullimai^ 
112  I  obeyed  tin 
iross  deei)ly  eu- 
tlio  Mississjpj); 
k  /n(/cpe/i(/t'/ic( 
le,  if  possible,  1 
idiii-rubber  boa; 
vliat  was  iieces- 
i  and  a  party  o: 
tver  the  sands,  1 
le  arrival  of  tlie 
t  U  o'clock  were 
[ilong  the  valley 
I,  as  already  de- 
iiio-graiiied  con- 
rs  or  constitute! 
y  or  eighty  fee! 
leui  was  proba- 
leiu  isolate,  and 
itain  goat  wcr 
osc  trunks  were 
mall  open  plain 
pid  current  into 
tpareiuly  dee) 
)e  cousiderablj 
and  the  after- 
next  day, 
akfast  at  Goat 
to  proceed  to 
Kite  to  apprize 
s  in  formation, 
hicli  had  been 
ere  five  of  my 
,  Benoist,  and 
took  on  board, 
r  twelve  days, 
iglit  as  a  duck 
e  heard  before 
which  we  had 
en  able  to  de- 
le  river  passes 


w  a  place  called  *'  cafion,"  (pronounced  knnijan,)  a  Spanish  word,  signify- 
ing a  piece  of  artillery,  iho  barrel  of  a  gun,  or  any  kind  of  tube  ;  and 
vhich,  in  this  country,  lias  been  adopted  to  describe  the  passage  of  a  river 
jetwccii  perpendicular  rocks  of  great  height,  which  freciuently  approach 
jacii  other  so  closely  overh(!ad  as  to  form  a  kind  of  tunnel  over  the  stream, 
rjiich  foams  along  below,  half  choked  up  by  fallen  fragments.     Betu'een 
|he  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water  and  Goat  island,  there  is  probably  a  fall  of 
JOO  feel,  and  that  was  ])rinci|)ally  made  in  the  canons  before  us  ;  as,  with- 
^)Ut  them,  the  water  was  comparatively  .smooth.     As  we  nearr'd  the  ridge, 
thf  river  made  a  sudden  turn,  and  swept  S(|uar»'Iy  down  ay;ainst  one  of  the 
Avails  of  the  canon  with  a  great  velocity,  and  so  steep  a  descent,  that  it  hud, 
1o  the  eye,  the  apj)earance  of  an  inclined  plane.     WMicu  we  launched  into 
Ahis,  the  men  jumped  overboard,  to  check  the  velocity  of  the  boat,  but  were 
tioon  in  water  up  to  their  necks,  and  our  boat  ran  on  ;  but  we  succeeded  iu 
^)riMging  her  to  a  small   point  of  i  )cks  on  the  right,  at  the  moiuh  of  the 
fcanun.     Here  was  a  kind  of  elcvaied  .sand  beach,  not  many  yards  square, 
)acked  by  the  rocks,  and  around  the  point  the  river  swept  at  a  right  angle, 
"'ranks  of  trees  deposited  on  juttnig  points  20  or  .'iO  feet  above,  and  other 
niarks,  showed  that  the  water  here  frequentlyro.se  to  a  considerable  height, 
^'hc  ridge  was  of  the  same  decomposing  granite  already  miuuioned,  and 
fthe  water  had  worked  the  surface,  in  many  places,  into  a  wavy  surface  oi 
gidges  and  holes.     We  ascended  the  rocks  to  reconnoitre  the  ground,  and 
Ifrom  the  suunuit  the  passage  appeared  to  be  a  continued  cataract  foaming 
lover  many  obstructions,  and  broken  by  a  number  of  small  falls.     We  saw 
luowhere  a  fall  answering  to  that  which  had  been  described  to  us  as  having 
t20  or  25  feet;  but  still  concluded  this  to  be  the  place  in  question,  as,  in  the 
'season  of  floods,  the  rush  of  the  river  against  tiie  wall  would  produce  a 
'great  rise,  and  the  waters,  rellected  squarely  otV,  would  descend  through  the 
'pa.ssage  in  a  sheet  of  foam,  having  every  appearance  of  a  large  fall.  Eigh- 
teen years  previous  to  this  time, as  1  have  subsequently  le.irned  from  him- 
self, Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  somewhere  above  on  this  river,  had  embarked  with  a 
valuable  cargo  of  beaver.     Unacquainted  with  the  stream,  which  he  be- 
lieved would  conduct  him  safely  to  the  Missouri,  he  came  unexpectedly  into 
this  canon,  where  he  was  wrecked,  with  the  total  loss  of  his  furs.  ^It  would 
have  been  a  work  of  great  time  and  labor  to  pack  our  baggage  across  the 
ridge,  and  I  determined  to  run  the  canon.     We  all  again  embarked,  and  at 
first  attempted  to  check  the  way  of  the  boat ;  but  the  water  swept  through 
with  so  much  violence  that  we  narrowly  escaped  being  swanqied,and  were 
obliged  to  let  her  go  in  the  full  force  of  the  current,  and  trust  to  the  skill  of 
•  the  boatmen.     Tiie  dangerous  places  iu  this  canon  were  where  huge  rocks 
had  fallen  from  above,  and  hemmed  iu  the  already  narrow  pass  of  the 
■river  to  an  open  space  of  three  or  four  and  five  feet.     These  obstructions 
raised  the  water  considerably  above,  which  was  sometimes  precipitated  over 
in  a  fall ;  and  at  other  places,  where  this  dam  was  too  high,  rushed  through 
the  contracted  opening  with  tremendous  violence.     Had  our  boat  been. 
'  made  of  wood,  in  passing  the  narrows  she  would  have  been  staved  ;  but 
.  her  elasticity  preserved  her  unhurt  from  every  shock,  and  she  seemed  fairly 
-  to  leap  over  the  falls. 

In  this  way  we  passed  three  cataracts  in  succession,  where,  perhaps  100 

feet  of  smooth  water  intervened  ;  and,  finally,  with  a  shout  of  pleasure  at 

our  success,  issued  from  our  tunnel  into  the  open  day  beyond.     We  were 

'  so  delighted  with  the  performance  of  our  boat,  and  so  confident  in  her 


■p 


I 


W 


71 


CAPT.   rUKMONTs  NAUUATIVE. 


[184J 


"11 


i!i^.. 


¥$X 


II 

.  3. 


m 


powers,  fli.il  wi;  would  not  liavo  hesitated  lo  leap  a  fall  often  foot  with  lierJ 
Wo  put  to  slioro  for  breakfast  at  soiiiu  willows  on  tlw;  ri^llt  bank,  innnodil 
ately  Itclow  iIk!  inotitli  of  tlic  canon  ;  for  it  was  now  s  o'clock,  and  we  lia({ 
been  working  sinc(!  dayli^dit,  and   wcro  all  wet,  fatigued,  and  lnm;,'ryj 
While  the  men  wore  preparinij  breakfast,  I  went  out  to  reconnoitre.     'I'tit^Bll 
view  was  very  limit'  I.     The  conrsc  of  the  river  was  smooth,  so  far  as  l| 
could  see;  on  both  '■ides  were  l)rok'en  hills;  inul  but  a  mile  or  two  belov 
was  aiioiher  high  ridge.     'I'he  rock  at  (he  month  of  the  canon  was  still  ili 
decomposing  grajiite,  with  great  ([uantities  of  mica,  which  made  a  very 
glittering  .sand. 

We  re-embarked  at  f)  o'clock,  and  in  abont  twenty  minutes  reached  tli 
next  canon.  I^anding  on  a  rocky  bhorc  at  its  commencenKMit,  we  asccndc      fti 
the  ridge  to  reconnoitre.     Portage  was  out  t>f  ilie  (jnestion.     So  far  as  w.      ^l] 
could  .sec.  the  j'lgged  rocks  pointed  out  the  courst;  of  the  cafion,  on  a  wind      fn 

Ml 

t)' 

t} 

»<1 


ing  line  of  seven  or  eight  miles.  It  was  simply  a  narrow,  dark  chasm  ir, 
the  rock;  and  here  the  perpendicular  faces  wcrt.-  tnueh  higher  than  in  tl' 
previous  pass,  being  at  this  end  two  to  three  hundred,  and  further  down, a 
wo  afterwards  ascertained,  five  hundred  feet  in  vertical  height.  Our  pre- 
vious success  had  mad(!  us  bold,  and  we  determined  again  to  run  the  cafion 
Every  thing  was  secured  as  firmly  as  possible  ;  and  having  divested  our- 
selves of  the  greater  part  of  our  clothins-,  we  pushed  into  tlie  stream.  To 
save  our  chronometer  from  accident,  Mr.  Preuss  took  it,  and  attempted  tc 
proceed  al()ng  the  shore  on  flic  masses  of  rock,  which  in  places  were  piloJ 
up  on  either  side;  Init, after  he  had  walked  aboiu  five  minutes,every  thin: 
like  shore  disappeared,  and  the  vcriical  wall  came  S([uarely  d.>wn  into  the 
water.  lie  therefore  waited  mitil  we  came  up.  An  ugly  pass  lay  before  uj:, 
We  had  made  fast  to  the  stern  of  the  boat  a  strong  rope  about  fifty  fe(!t  long; 
and  three  of  the  men  clambered  along  among  tl.e  rocks,  anil  with  this  rop* 
let  her  down  slowly  tlirough  the  pass.  In  several  places  high  rocks  lay  scat- 
tered about  in  the  channel :  and  in  the  narrows  it  required  all  our  strength 
and  skill  to  avoid  staving  the  boat  on  the  sharp  points.  In  one  of  these,  tlu 
boat  proved  a  little  too  broad,  and  stuck  last  for  an  instant,  while  the  water 
flew  over  us;  fortunately,  it  was  but  lor  an  instant,  as  our  united  strength 
forced  her  immediately  through.  The  water  swept  overboard  only  a  sextan: 
and  a  pair  of  saddlebags.  I  caught  the  sextant  as  it  passed  by  me  ;  but  the 
saddlebags  became  tlu;  prey  of  the  whirlpools.  \Ve  reached  the  place  wlierc 
Mr.  Preuss  was  standing,  took  him  on  l)oard,  mid,  with  the  aid  of  the  boa;, 
put  the  men  uiih  the  rope  on  the  succeeding  pile  o(  rocks.  We  found  this 
passage  much  worse  than  the  previous  one. and  our  position  was  rather  a  bad 
one.  To  go  back,  Avas  impossible  ;  before  us,  the  cataract  was  a  sheet  oi 
foatii ;  and  shut  up  in  the  chasm  by  the  rocks,  which,  in  some  places,  seemed 
almost  to  meet  overhead,  the  roar  of  the  water  vv\as  deafening.  We  pushed 
off  again  ;  but,  after  making  a  little  distance,  the  force  of  the  current  became 
too  great  for  the  men  on  shore,  and  two  of  them  let  go  the  rope.  Lajcunesse, 
the  third  man,  hung  on,  and  was  jerked  headforemost  into  the  river  from  a 
rock  about  twelve  feet  Jiigh  ;  and  down  the  boat  shot  like  an  arrow,  Basil 
following  us  in  the  rapid  current,  and  exerting  all  his  strength  to  keep  in 
mid  channel — his  head  only  seen  occasionally  like  a  black  spot  in  the  white 
foam.  How  far  we  went,  I  do  not  exactly  know  ;  but  wesurreeded  in  turn- 
ing the  boat  into  an  eddy  below  "  'CVe  Diett,-'  said  Basi!  Lajeunesse,  as 
he  arrived  immediately  after  us,  ^'Je  crois  !)ien  (;itej\ti  nug6  itn  denii  mi/e." 
He  had  owed  his  life  to  his  skill  as  a  swimmer ,  and  I  determined  to  take 


711 

;r( 

)f 

liif^ 

jir 

kr 

Vcc 

fnc 

fii 

t)p 

Wf 
\vi 
INI 
wi 
■th( 
^di( 
co: 
•pr^ 

roi 
fe( 
tei 
be 
th 

SCI 

su 

jo^ 
tic 

nc 


\m  ■ 


iifcs  reached  th 
!iit,  \VG  ascciidti 
1.     So  far  as  w. 
innri,  on  a  wind 
,  dark  cliasiu  i;. 
Ljlier  than  in  tl' 
further  down,  a 
light.     Otir  prC' 
to  run  the  canon, 
1^  divested  our- 
the  stream.     To 
Liid  attempted  to 
ilaces  were  pilcJ 
utes,  every  thine 
y  d.nvn  into  the 
iss  lay  before  u:< 
nt  fifty  feet  long; 
111  with  this  rope 
h  rocks  lay  seat- 
all  our  strength 
lie  of  these,  th'. 
while  the  water 
luiited  strength 
d  only  a  sextan; 
by  me  ;  but  the 
the  place  wlierc 
aid  of  the  boa;. 
We  found  thii 
ns  rather  a  bail 
was  a  sheet  oi 
places,  seemed 
g.     We  pushed 
current  became 
)e.  Lajeunessc, 
le  river  from  a 
n  arrow,  Basil 
gth  to  keep  in 
ot  in  the  while 
'oeded  in  turn- 
Lajeunessc,  as 
n  (ienii  mi/eJ^ 
mined  to  take 


t  UT.  FIlUMOiNTX  NAKKATJVE.  73 

im  and  the  two  others  on  hoar<l,and  trust  to  skill  jw\  fortune  to  reach  the 

th'^r  end  in  >  iCetv.     We  placed  ours(!lvi's  on  our  kncts,  with  the  short 

addles  in  our  hands,  the  most  skilful   l)(»atni;in   being  at  the  bow  ;  and 

gain  we  comnienred  our  rapid  descent.     We  cleared  rock  after  rock,  and 

hot  past  fall  .ilU'r  rall,onr  little  boat  seei.ung  to  play  with  the  cataract. 

e  boramo  thislird  with  success,  and  I'aniiliiir  with  the  dangiir ;  and,yield- 

.g  to  the  exciteintnit  of  the  occasion,  broke  furtli  togethi;r  mtoa  ('anadiaii 

oat   song.     Singing,  or  rather  shouting,  we  dashrd  along;  and  were,  I 

clieve,  in  ih>:  nndst  of  the  chorus,  when  the  boat  struck  a  concealed  rock 

mnicdiattily  II'  tli(!  t'oot  of  a  fall,  which   whirled   ln-r  over  in  an  instant. 

^'hree  of  my  men  could  not  swim,  and  my  first  fcelmg  was  to  assist  then». 

nd  save  some  of  our  cU'ei'ts;  but  a  sharp  concussion  or  two  convinced  me 

hat  I  had  not  yet  saved  myself     A  f(!w  strokes  brought  me  into  an  eddy, 

nd  I  landed  on  a  pile  of  rocks  on  the  left  side.     Looking  aroiuid,  I  saw  that 

Ir.  I'reijss  had  gain«'d  the  sliore  on   the  same  side,  about  twenty   yards 

clow  ;  and  a  lilth;  clunbing  and  swimming  soon   brou:zht  him  to  my  side. 

t)n  the  opposite  side,  against  the  wall,  lay  the  boat  bottom  up  ;  and  Ijambcrt 

tvas  in  the  act  of  saving  Descoteaiix,  wliom  he  had  grasped  by  tlie  hair, 

md  who  could  not  swim  ;  '*  L<tcUc  pan,"'  said  \w,  as   I  afterward  learned. 

'  lac/ie  pas,  chcrJWrc..^*     '*  CVrt«/i.y  /;a.v,"   was  the  reply,  "./«  mVn  vdis 

Tionrir  avdnt  que  dc  te  Idrher.^^     Such  was  the   reply   of  courage  and 

j;enerosity  in  this  danger.     For  a  hundred  yards  below,  the  current  was  cov- 

!red  with  flo  iling  books  and  boxes,  bales  of  blankets,  and  scattered  articles 

)f  clothing;  and  si>  strong  and  boiling  was  the  stream,  that  even  our  heavy 

nstruments,  which  were  all  in  cases,  kept  on  the  surface,  and  the  sextant. 

:ircle,  and  th<;  long  black  box  of  the  telescope,  were  in  view  at  once.     P'or 

I  mometit,  I  I'elt  somewhat  disheartened.     All   our  books — ahnost  every 

Vecord  of  the  journey — our  journals  and  registers  of  astronomical  and  bar- 

Jnmetrical  observations — had  been  lost  in  a  moment.     Hut  it  was  no  time  to 

Jndulge  in  regrets;  and  I  immediately  set  about  endeavoring  to  save  some- 

bingfrom  the  wreck.     Making  ourselves  imderstood  as  well  as  {)ossible  by 

igns,  (for  tiothing  could  be  heard  in  the  roar  of  waters.)  we  commenced  our 

perations.     Of  every  thing  on  board,  tlie  only  article  that  had  been  saved 

"was  my  double  barrelled  gun,  which  Descoteaux  had  caught,  and  clung  to 

Vithdrowning  tenacity.  The  men  continued  down  the  river  on  the  left  bank. 

]\Ir.  Preuss  and  myself  descended  on  the  side  we  were  on;  and  Lajeunessc, 

with  a  paddle  in  his  hand,  jumped  on  the  boat  alone,  and  continued  down 

the  cai"ion.     She  was  now  light,  and  cleared  every  Inid  place  with  much  less 

diffictilty.     In  a  short  time,  he  was  joined  by  Laivd)ert ;  and  the  searcli  was 

continued  for  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  which  was  as  far  as  the  boat  could 

•proceed  in  the  pass. 

■  Here  the  walls  were  about  five  htuidred  feet  high,  and  the  fragments  of 
rocKS  from  above  had  choked  the  river  into  a  hollow  pass,  but  one  or  two 
feet  above  tlie  surface.  Tlirough  this  and  the  interstices  of  the  rock,  the  wa- 
ter found  its  way.  Favored  beyond  our  expectations,  all  of  our  registers  had 
been  recovered,  with  the  exception  of  one  of  my  journals,  which  contained 
the  notes  and  incidents  of  travel,  and  topographical  descriptions,  a  luimber  of 
scattered  astronomical  observations,  priii'ipally  meridian  altitudes  of  the 
sun,  and  our  barometrical  register  west  of  Laramie.  Fortunately,  our  other 
journals  contained  duplicates  of  the  most  important  barometrical  observa- 
tions which  had  been  taken  in  the  mountains.  These,  with  a  few  scattered 
notes,  were  all  that  had  been  preserved  of  our  meteorological  observations. 


i 


y. 


I 

to 


76 


CArr,   KHKVfONT'.'«  NAHKATIVK 


[1641 


1   '.' 


.'   1    « 


Ii-*fti- 


it. 


In  nddifion  to  tliPS",  we  N.ivrd  the  r|rrl<»;  and  ihomo,  willi  a  fow  btaiikots 
COdNtilulftl  every  tliifi^'  lliul  had  been  resciU'd  Crom  the  waters. 

'I'he  day  was  riunimg  ripidly  away,  and  it  was  nticessury  to  reach  Gosjl 
isinnd,  whillter  llio  party  had  preceded  us,  hefuru  night.     In  this  micurtaiij 
comitry,  the  traveller  is  no  nnicli  in  the  power  of  chancf,  that  wo.  bucami 
somewhat  inieasy  in  regar  1  to  them.     Should  any  thiui,'  have  occnrred, 
the  brief  interval  oi  oiir  siiparaiion,  to  prevent  our  rrjoiiiing  ih<Mn,  o»n'  situ 
ation  would  he  lalher  adissperateono.    >Ve  had  not  a  morsel  of  provisions 
our  arms  and  anininnition  were  mmo — and  wt;  wtirt;  (!Utir<ly  at  the  meicyl 
of  any  straifglnii:  party  of  savages,  and  not  a  little  in  (hmgrr  of  .starvatioii 
We  ihcrefitre  .set  out  at  once  in  two  parties.     Mr.  Prcuss  and  my-jclf  on  th 
left,  and  the  men  on  tli'>  opjmsite  side  of  tho  river.     Olimliini;  out  of  iji. 
caHon,  we  tonnd  oursciivt's  in  a  very  brokers  conniry,  where  we  wore  no; 
yet  able  to  rocojj'nise  any  locality.      In  the  course  of  our  descent  throu«li 
ihe  canon,  the  rock,  which  at  the  upper  end  was  of  the  decomposing  i^raniti 
changed  into  a  varied  sandstone  furmation.     Tlio  hills  ami  points  of  ili 
ridges  were  covered  with  fraLinients  of  a  yellow  sandstoni!,  ol  which  tlit 
.strata  were  sometiujes  dispjaycid  in  the  broken  ravines  which  interrn[)lt;: 
our  course,  and  made  our  walk  extremely  fatiguing.     Ai  i.ne  point  of  {h. 
canon  the  red  argillaceous  sandstone  rose  in  a  wall  of  five   hundred  feel 
surmounted  by  a  stratum  of  white  sandsl(jne  ;  and  in  an  t)ppo>ite  ravine 
colunui  of  red  san(lston(!  rose,  in  form  like  a  steeple,  about  one  hundred  an: 
fifty  feet  liiL'h.     The  scenery  was  extremely  j>icinrescpie,  and,n'itwithstaiiil> 
ing  our  forlorn  condition,  we  were  frei|uently  obli'^ed  to  stop  and  admire  it 
Our  progress  was  not  very  rapid.     We  had  emerged  from  the  water  hah 
naked,  and,  on  arriving  at  the  top  of  the  precipice,  I  found  myself  with  only 
one  moccasin.     Tiie  fragments  of  ruck  made  walking  painful,  and  I  was  (Vc 
qucnily  obliged  to  stop  and  \'     '  out  the  rliorns  ol  the  cacius,  here  the  pre 
vailing  plant,  and  with  wliicli   .  few  miniUes'  walk  covered  the  bottom  o; 
my  feet.     From  this  ridi^e  the  river  emerged  into  a  smiling  prairie, and,  dc 
scending  to  the  bank  for  water,  we  were  joined  by  Henoist.     The  rest  o; 
the  parly  were  out  of  sight,  having  taken  a  more  inland  roule.     We  crossoii 
the  river  repeatedly — sometimes  able  to  ford  it,  and  sometimes  swinnning— 
climbed  over  the  ridges  of  two  mon^  canons,  and  towards  evening  reaches 
tiie  cut,  which  we  here  named  the  Hot  Spring  gate.     On  our  previous  visi 
in  July,  we  had  not  entered  this  pass,  reserving  it  for  our  descent  in  tin 
boat ;  and  when  we  entered  it  this  evening,  Mr.  Prenss  was  a  few  hundred 
feet  in  advance.     Heated  with  the  long  march,  he  came  suddenly  upon  a 
fine  bold  spring  gushing  from  the  rock,  about  ten  feet  ahove  the   river, 
Eager  to  enjoy  the  crystal  water,  he  threw  himself  down  for  a  hasty  draught 
and  took  a  moutlifnl  of  water  almost  boiling  hot.     He  said  nothing  to  lie- 
noist,  who  laid  himself  down  to  drink  ;  but  the  sleam  from  the  water  arrest- 
ed his  eagerness,  and  he  escaped  the  hot  draught.     We  had  no  ihermometei 
to  ascertain  the  temperature,  but  I  could  hold  my  hand  in  the  water  jusi  Ion: 
enough  to  count  two  seconds.     There  arc  eight  or  ten  of  these  springs,  dis- 
charging themselves  by  streams  large  enough  to  be  called  runs.     A  loud  hol- 
low noise  was  heard  from  the  rock,  which  I  supposed  to  be  produced  by  the 
fall  of  the  water.  The  strata  immediately  where  they  issue  is  a  fine  white  and 
calcareous  suidstone,  covered  with  an  incrustation  of  common  salt.    Leav- 
ing this  Thermopyla;  of  the  west,  in  a  short  walk  we  reached  the  red  ridge 
which  has  been  described  as  lying  just  above  Goat  Island.     Ascending  this, 
we  found  some  fresh  tracks  ann  a  button,  which  showed  that  the  other  men 


01 


|c 

I 


a  fovir  blunkois 
twrs*. 
ry  lo  rcncli  Goai 
III  this  iiticurtain 
lial  wc  bociuiw 
uvo  occmic'd, 
^'  iIkmii,  our  sitti-j 
I  Dlprovisioiis- 
I'ly  at  lliu  iu(M( 
5«'r  of  sturvutioiii 
III!  luyriuiroM  (III 
biiiLj  out  of  thf 
re  wo  wcru  no; 
duscoiil  llirougli 
mposiiig  granite 
1(1  points  of  tfi 
u!,  ol  which  tli^ 
hich  inluiTiipii!: 
mic  point  of  tin 
't;   hniulred  fi'ct 
)ppnsiic  ruviiK! 
Olio  hnndrcil  un 
kl,Mo(wilhstniiil- 
op  aiiij  admire  ii 
I  I  ho   water  hall 
iiiysolf  with  oril; 
ul,  and  I  wasfre 
us,  ht;re  the  pre 
d  the  bottom  o: 
prairie,  and,  di 
>t.     The  rest  o; 
tt,'.     We  crossed 
los  swimming— 
ovoiiiiij^  roachoL 
nr  previous  visi 
descent  in  tlu 
•!  a  few  hundred 
iddenly  upon  a 
(I'U'e  the   river, 
iliasly  drauglii 
nothing  to  }k 
10  water  arrest- 
to  lliermometei 
water  jusiloti: 
ese  springs,  dis- 
s.     A  loud  hoi- 
rod  need  by  the 
.fine white  ami 
on  salt.    Leav- 
ed llie  red  ridgo 
AsceudiMgthis, 
t  the  otiier  men 


H«] 


CAPT    FHKMONTS  NaKUATIVB 


77 


d  nirendy  arrivd.     A  .sln>ut  from  the  man  who  fir»l  roached  iho  top  ol 


11 


,  ndgo,  rr.spoiid«Ml  lo  fr.)m  below,  iiift)rm»<l  us  that  our  friend.1  were  a 

the  island  ;  and  wc  w«!ro  ^oon  among  ihcm.     We  lonud  some  piecei  of 

lufTalo  stnndinif  around  iho  firr  for  nt*,aiid  nianagfd  to  ;;<'i  .soniedry  clolht'K 

long  the  p<()|)le.     A  siiddfu  storm  of  rain  drove  \\s  mlo  the  best  shelier 

fo  could  find,  where  wo  slonl  sotmdiy,  after  one  of  the  most  faligumg 

(ays  I  have  ever  experienced. 

Jltitrust  vJ/5.— Karly  this  morning  Lajcunossc  wns  sent  to  the  wreck  for 

(•  articles  which  liad  been  sived,  and  about  noon  we  left  the  island.  The 

lure  which  wo  had  left  here  in  .Inly  had  much  improved  in  cotidition.and 

10  served  us  well  agam  for  some  lime,  but  was  fmally  abandoruMi  at  a 

|nl)se<pient  part  of  the  journey.     At   10   in   the  u.orning  of  the   2(\\.\\  wh 

•ached  Cache  camp,  where  we  found  every  thiiiL!;  midiMurbiid.    We  disui- 

;rred  our  depositc,  arranged  our  carls  which   had  l)eon  left   here  on  the 

MV  out,  and,  travelling  a  few  miles  in  the  aliernoon,  encamped  for  ibe 

ligiit  at  the  ford  of  the  Platte. 

.'  ^lii^ust  -27. — ,\t  midday  we  halted  at  the  j)lace  where  we  had  lakf^ndm- 
jher  on  the  'J7tli  of  July.     The  coinitry  which,  win  n  we  passed  up,  looked 
As  if  the  hard  winter  frosts  had  passed  over  it,  had  now  assumed  a  new 
fdo     so  much  of  vernal  freshness  had  been  given  to  it  by  the  late  rains. 
ho  Platte  was  exceedingly  low — a  mere  lino  of  water  among  the  sand- 
Jars.     We  reached  Laramie  fort  on  the  last  day  of  August,  after  an  ab- 
ionce  of  forty-two  days,  and  had  the  pleasure  to  find  our  friends  all  well. 
riie  forti<fth(lay  had  bt  en  fixed  for  our  return  ;  ond  the  cpiick  eyes  of  the 
Indians,  who  W(!re  on  the  lookout  for  us,  discov<'ied  oiirll.ig  as  we  wound 
unong  the  hills.     The  tort  saluted  us  with  ropeatid  discharges  of  itssingle 
)iece,  which  we  retuined  witii  scattered  volleys  of  our  small  arms,  and  telt 
ihe  joy  of  a  home   reception  in  getting  back  to  this  remote  station,  which 
Icemed  so  far  off  as  we  went  out. 

'  On  the  moroing  of  the  .Id  of  September  we  bade  adieu  to  our  kind  friends 
III  the  fort,  and  continued  our  homeward  journey  down  the  Platte,  which 
was  glorious  with  thi;  autumnal  splendor  of  uinumt'rable  dowers  in  full  and 
\)rilliani  bloom.  On  the  warm  sands,  among  the  h*'li(tnthi,  one  of  the 
characteristic  jdanfs,  w«;  saw  groat  numbers  of  rattlesnakes,  of  which  five 
or  six  were  killed  in  the  morning's  ride.  We  occupied  ourselves  in  im- 
proving our  |)revious  survey  cf  the  river;  and,  as  the  weather  was  fine, 
astronomical  t)bservations  were  generally  made  at  night  and  at  n(»on. 
'.  We  halted  for  a  short  time  on  the  afternoon  of  the  5th  with  a  village  of 
Sioux  Indians,  some  of  whose  chiefs  we  had  met  at  Laramie.  The  water 
in  the  Platte  was  extremely  low  ;  in  many  places,  the  large  expanse  of 
sands,  with  some  occasional  stunted  trees  on  the  banks,  gave  it  the  air  of 
the  seacoast ;  the  bed  of  the  river  being  merely  a  succession  of  sandbars, 
among  which  the  channel  was  divided  into  rivulets  a  few  inches  deep. 
Wc  crossed  and  recrossed  with  our  carts  repeatedly  and  at  our  pleasure  ; 
and,  whenever  an  obstruction  barred  our  way,  in  the  shape  of  precipitous 
bluffs  thai  came  down  upon  the  river,  we  turned  directly  into  it,  and  mada 
our  way  along  the  suiidy  bed,  with  no  other  inconvenierice  than  the  fre- 
quent (piicksands,  which  greatly  fatigued  our  anin»als.  Disinterring  on  the 
way  the  cache  which  had  been  made  by  our  paity  when  they  ascended  the 
river,  we  reached  without  accident,  on  the  evening  of  the  12th  of  Septern- 
li;ir,  our  old  encampment  of  the  2d  of  July,  at  the  junction  of  the  forks. 
Our  cache  of  the  barrel  of  pork  was  found  undisturbed,  and  proved  a  sea* 


I 


1 

i 


i 


«'.\!»T.  riinMONTS  WRIIVTIVF. 


.•    1    » 


^ 


voiiublo  (ultlitiiui  to  our  Mtock  of  provisioiis.  At  this  ptaoc  I  linddi'icriiuin 
to  in.iko  ano(lii>r  .iilrrnpl  lo  ilfMriid  ilio  Piutlt;  liy  wati^r,  atui  acconliiiKli 
sniMit  iwo  (lays  ni  lUc  i'i)risiriii'lit\ri  of  a  luill  liuat.      Mm   witc  m-hi  mit  od 
llir  iVtMiiiK  III  Mill-  ariival,  titi'  iirot'sMaiy  iimulicr  of  ImiILs  killid,  uiid  tlic'ii( 
skins  hroil^lit  to  tin'  raiiip.      I'oitr  tiflhu  Ix'st  ol' tia'ill  u  cri'  slmii^ly  .xcwci 
to^clliiT  with  l>uli.ilo  Niiii'W,  ami  .>tr('frh(*(l  over  h  haskct  i'lanic  ol'  willow] 
'I'hr  s«'aiiis  wt'iu  iJH'ii  roviTt'iJ  Willi  aNln,'.s  aiKJ   I  illow,  ami  ilic  lioat  h-U  cxj 
|)os«m1  lo  till'  sun  lor  the  i,'r<:iti  r  part  tW  ou«'  (lay,   which   was  Nnllicioiill 
(try  and  ctxiirai't  the  skin,  and  ni  iko  the  wholo  work  solid  aiitl  htronif.    I 
had  a  roinidcd  how,  was  ci:;!!!  Coct  Ionic  and  t\vv  hroad,  ami  di(!w  will 
four  ni'Mi  aluniMoiir  iinlifs  waiti.     On  llir   inoriiini,'  td'  lln'   IIiIiwimiih 
hark'd  in  oiii    hide  huat,  .Mr.    I'li-uss    and   inysiill',   willi  l\vt>  mcii.     W. 
drav'i^cil  Ihi  over  llu?  sands  Im  ihrta;  or  loiir  inil(;s,  and  llicii  lull  \wr  on  i 
bar, and  ahamloncd  t'litncly  all  t'iniiior  atloinpts  to  navigate  this  rivor.  TIk 
names  ^lV«Ml  hy  lint  Indians  arc  always  rem  irkaldy  ap|tropriiiti! ;  and  ccr 
taiiily  none  was  tvci  \i\i\r  so  than  thai  which   ilicy   have  yiviiii  to  tin 
strc'ain — "llic  .Wdna.ka,  or  Shallow  river."    ^^'alkill^  .s|(;adily  iIk;  remain 
der  of  the  day,  a  lilllc  hct'orc  dark  wo  overtook  our  ptiopli;  at  Iheir  even 
ing  camp,  ah  ml  Iwcniy-one  miles  hclow  the  jiniclioii.     Tin"  next  morniii. 
we  crtisscd  ilic  Pialic.  and  conlitmed  our   way  down   ihr  nver  bottom  m 
the  left  hank,  where  we  loiind  an  rxeelleiii  plainly  heaiiMi  road. 

On  the  l.sih  W(!  reached  (Irand  islaiul,  which  is  liliy-two  miles  loiii?,  will 
all  nveras;(^  breadth  oi'  om;  mile  an  I  ihroeiinarUM's.  Ii  h  ison  it  some  smi 
eminences,  and  is  Miilii  ieiitly  elevated  lo  he  sernre  irom  the  annual  lloo  !> 
ol'  the  river.  As  has  heeii  already  remarked,  it  is  well  liinlnMcd,  with  ;ii 
oxcelleiit  soil,  and  recommends  itself  lo  notice  as  the  best  point  for  a  mill- 
tary  i)i>siiion  on  the  Lower  Platl(». 

On  the  JiJd  we  arrived  at  tlu-  villai^o  of  the  (Irand  IViwiiees,  on  the  riirli' 
bank  of  the  river,  about  ihirly  miles  abo\e  llu;  nioiilh  ol  ihe  Loop  fork 
They  were  jzatherin;.;  In  their  corn,  and  we  obtained  from  ihem  a  very  wti 
come  supply  of  vem'tables. 

The  morning  of  i!ie  J  llh  we  reachid  the  Loup  fork  of  ih--  Plalle.  At 
the  place  where  we  forded  it,  this  stream  was  lour  huiulrcd  and  thirty 
yards  hroad,  with  a  swift  current  of  c/car  water  ;  in  this  respect,  dilleriii:; 
from  the  Flaile,  which  has  a  yellow  mudily  color,  derived  from  tlie  linn- 
ilonc^  and  marl  formation,  of  which  we  hav(!  previously  spoken,  'fhc  ford 
Was  dillicult,  as  tin;  water  was  so  deep  thai  it  came  into  tin;  body  of  tin 
carts,  and  we  reached  the  opposite  hank  after  repeated  ;Htempts,  asceiidiii.' 
and  descending  the  bed  of  the  rivisr  in  order  lo  avail  ourselves  of  the  bars, 
We  encamped  on  the  left  hank  of  the  fork,  in  the  point  of  land  at  its  jmic- 
tioti  with  ilie  Platte.  Duriie^  the  two  days  that  we  reinuiiied  here  for 
astronomical  observations,  tin;  had  weather  j)erniitled  us  to  obtain  but  out' 
good  observation  for  the  latitude — a  meridian  altifud(!  of  the  sun,  which 
gave  for  the  latitude  ol'  the  mouth  of  the  Loup  fork,  11°  22'  11". 

Five  or  six  days  previously.  I  had  sent  forward  C.  Lambert,  with  two  men. 
to  Hellevue,  with  directions  to  ask  from  Mr.  P. Sarpy  the  gentleman  inclvargo 
of  the  American  Company's  establishment  at  that  place,  the  aid  of  his  carpen- 
ters in  constructing  a  boat,  in  which  I  proposed  to  descend  the  Missouri,  tin 
the  afternoon  of  the  27th  we  met  one  of  the  men,  who  bad  been  despatched 
by  Mr.  Sarpy  witii  a  welcome  supply  of  provisions  and  a  very  kind  note, 
which  gave  us  the  very  gratifying  intelligence  that  our  boat  was  in  rapid 
l»rogress.     On  the  evening  of  the  30th  we  encamped  in  an  almost  impeiic- 


th< 
tb. 
ei 

ii 
of 

okl 
iDK 

f<K 
VO 

w 
th< 
bo 

I 
t 

tioii 

at') 
V€y 
ula 
ope 

Loi 
eile 

tile 
bir 


[1841 

I  linddi'ii'iiMiii 
,  and  iuT«>riliri^| 
wtn-  st'iji  tiiii  01 
s  killed,  and  tlit>i 
r«*  slumgiy  Si'W'i 
(V.inu'  (»r  willt)\v, 
I  liir  lioat  I'il  r\ 
W.l.s    siillicicllt 

d  and  Mi'oiitf. 
,  and  flu'w  wit 

lilt!     l.ltll    Wl!  «!||l 
tWi)    MU'h.       \\< 

Ian  k'l't  lu>r  on  a 
ic  llnsiiviT.  Til 
o|)riuti! ;  and  ci;r 
vi«  ^ivtiii  l»i  till 
(dily  iIk;  reiimiii 
[»li;  ai  llicir  cwu 
Iw  tit.'M  iiidinin. 
'■  livtM'  bottom  oil 
I  road. 

•  niilrs  loni;,  will 
ion  it  .sonif  Mni! 
ilic  annual  llood^ 
iinlii-rcd,  with  ai 
I'oinl  I'ur  a  inili 


<M'T,   nillMoNTH  N.\HK\TIV»: 


7f> 


iui!s,  on  ijuj  rigli! 
till-'  l^oiip  Ibik 
I'-ui  a  very  wd- 

111"  Phille.     A! 

idrtd  and  thirly 

(;s|)C'i:l,  didoriiiL: 

Iroin  llic  lini' • 

ki'ii.     '("lit;  lonJ 

lie  l)0(ly  <if  the 

iipts,  ascfiidiii:' 

vtsoI'iIh;  bars, 

and  at  its  June- 

laiiiud  Uo.Tii  I'or 

obtain  but  oiio 

tlio  sun,  wliicli 

t'  11". 

jwitli  two  men, 

cnian  inclKirge 

id  of  hiscarpcii- 

le  Missouri.  (On 

L'en  despatched 

very  kind  note, 

It  was  in  rapid 

1 1  most  impcnc- 


iorcrowlli  on  ili»'  Iffi  '>:uik  «»f  tlm  I'i.iltr,  In  (Ii«>  point  id'  land  at  ils 
let*  Willi  tbr   Mi^Nonii      iliri'i'  Inmdrt'tl   and  lilli'in  nnl)  s,  iM*coidm;{ 
fi  (Jvonin^,  IroMi   Ibc  jnnilion   of  llir   lorUs,  and   live  hnndrcd  and 
iy  fioni  Fort  l/iraniU!. 

om  lilt!  pnii'iion  wr  b.-id  loinid  tin-  lud  of  dm  I'latl'- oivi  pji-d  witli  nu> 

^n^  iNJands,  ni:iny  oi  ili*  ni  vrry  lari,'i!,  and  all  will  iniibf  »'d  ;  pos.sc.s,s. 

iiN  well  as  till!  itoiloni  l.indN  ol  tin!  river,  a  very  e\ei  lleni  soil.     Witli 

^^  exception  of  M»ni«)  scatti-red  qroves  on  the  banks,  ili»!  boiioniN  a;o  ^cn- 

|H|illy  without  liinb(!r.     A  portion  of  lliesi!  eoiiNi.st  ol  low   ".rounds,  eoveriid 

til  a  prol'iisioii  o(  fine  irrasses,  and  are  probably  iiiund  ited  in  iIim  spriiiif^ 

.'  leinaniin:^'  part   i^  lii:;h   river  pranie,  eniircily  beyond   liie   inllueiiee  ot 

I!  llood.s.     'I'lie  bre:idili  ol'  |||(>  river  Is  usually  iliret!-(|narlers  ol'  a  nillo, 

l<-ept  wlier(!  It  isenlaiLf.'d   by  inlands.     Tli  il   poriioii  ol   iiseonrse  wbieli 

(x'cupioil  by  (Jrainl  island  has  an   aveia/  •   bieailtii,  Ironi  shore  to  short!, 

of  two  and  a  half  miles.     'I'Ih:  breadth  ol  tint  valley,  with  the  various  ar- 

ittent.s  of  ^'roiiiKl — springs,  limbor,  ami  whaluvor  I  liavtf  th(»u^lil  iiilunist- 

|k  to  travellers  .ind  .selilei's. 

^(h'tiihcr  I. — I   rose  iln>  moniiim  loir^  before  ilaylii,'ht,  and  he  ird  wiilia 
4'liiit^  of  pleasure  ihe  tinlvhn|^'  of  cow  bells  at  th*!  setileinent>  on  the  op- 
^ilu  >ide  of  the   Missouri.     lOarly  in   the  day  wo  rtsached  .Mr.  Siirpy'.s 
>idenco;  and,  in  thu  s(!cuiily  and  comfort  of  his  hospttibtu  mansion,  fittt 
|e  |ile.isiire  ot  btiiii^'  ;iLralu  Within  the  prde  of  civih/atioii.     we  found  our 
at  on   the  sloelvN  ;  a   lev/  daysMilliced   to  eomplele  her ;  ;itid,  iii   the  al- 
nooii  of  llif  -Ith,  w<;  embarkt'd  on  the   Missouri.     All  our  ei|uipai,Mj — 
rsL's,  carts,  and  the  inatirivl  of  the  camp — had  b(;en  sold  at  piiblK;  auc- 
A\  at  ni'lleviie.     TIm!  siren  .'ih  of  my  party  enableil  me  t»  man  the  boat 
iili  ten  oars,  relieved  every  iiour:  and  we  descended  rapidly.      Ivirly  on 
i«!  inurnlng  of  thu   Idlli,  we  hailed  io  nuik«j  some  astronomical  observa- 
>ns  at  the  mouth  (d  the   Kansas,  exactly  four  months  since  wi;  had  left 
('  tratJini'  post  of  Mr.  Cyprian    Chouteau,  on    the  same  river,  leu  miles 
Itove.     On  our  dcsc.ut   lo  this  pl.ac  ■,  we  had  employed  oiir>elves  in  sur- 
▼eyin;,'  and  .sketchiiii^  llio  Missouri,  makiir-r  astronomical  (d)scrvatioiis  reg- 
ularly at  night  and  at  midday,  wii.'Ueviir   the   weather  permitted.     These 
operations  on  the   river  were  eontiniied  until  our  arrival  at  tin.'  eity  of  St. 
Louis,  ,\li>s()mi,  on  the    ITiIi.       At  St.  i.,oins,  ihe  sale  of  oiir  r(!mainiug 
efl'i'ots  was  mide;  and,   leaving'  that  city  by  steamboat  on  the  iMth.  I  had 
"' e  honor  to  report  to  you  at  the  city  of  Washin_i;lon  on  the  iJinh  of  Oeto- 


2 

Bir. 
;  \'ery  respecifullv,  t^ir.  your  obedient  S'irvant, 

.1.  C.  KKKMO.NT, 
2(1  Lieut.  Corps  of  Topo'^rajtiucdl  /'Jn^i/icers. 


i'T, 


if 


^ 


%'   ■■;: 


i 


& 

V. 

i 


I 


ASTUONOMTCAL  OBSEUVATIONS 


ANI> 


TABLE  OF  LATITUDES  AND  LONGITUDES. 


5 


\ 


Mi.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


63 


ASTRONOMICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


The  longitudes  given  in  llic  subjoined  table  are  referred  to  the  meridian 
ot  Greenwich. 

For  the  determination  of  astronomical  positions,  wo  were  provided  with 
the  lollowing  instruments: 

One  telescope,  miignifyini?  power  120. 
One  circle,  by  Gambey,  Paris. 
.  One  sextant,  by  Gaiubcy,  Paris. 

One  sextant,  by  Troughton. 
One  box  chronometer,  No.  7,810,  by  Frencli. 
One  Brockbaiik  pocket  chronometer. 

One  small  wntcli  with  a  light  chronometer  balance,  No.  4,632,  by 
Arnold  &  Dent. 
:    The  rate  of  the  chronometer  7,810,  is  exhibited  in  the  following  state- 
fnent : 


I 


"  New  York,  Mai/  5,  1842. 
Chronometer  No.  7,810,  by  French,  is  tiiis  day  at  noon — 

"  i^/ou;  of  Greenwich  mean  time       -  -  11 '  4" 

" /Vy/ of  New  York  mean  time        -  -     4h.  45'  1" 


"  Loses  per  day 


2"-7_ 


"ARTHUR  STEWART, 

"  74  Merchants'  Exchange.'^ 


An  accident  among  some  fough  ground  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Kan- 
gas  river  strained  the  balance  of  this  chronometer,  (No.  7,810,)  and  ren- 
dered it  useless  during  the  remainder  of  the  campaign.  From  the  9th  of 
|ime  to  the  24th  of  August,  inclusively,  the  longitudes  depend  upon  the 
i^rockbank  pocket  chronometer:  the  rate  of  which,  on  leaving  St.  Lonis» 
.was  fourteen  seconds,  The  rate  obtained  by  observations  at  l^'ort  Laramie, 
i4".05,  has  been  used  in  calculation. 

From  the  24th  of  August  until  the  termination  of  the  journey.  No.  4,G32 
(of  which  the  rate  was  35  ".79)  was  used  for  the  same  purposes.  Tlie  rate 
of  this  watch  was  irregular,  and  1  place  but  little  confidence  in  the  few 
longitudes  which  depend  upon  it,  though,  so  far  as  we  Iiave  any  means  of 
Judging,  they  appear  tolerably  correct. 


J?, 


5  4  (.'APT.  KREMONTS  NARRATIVF  [ig^ 

Table  of  latitudes  and  lon^iludes,  deduced  froni  ohservatioHs  fn< 

during  the  Journct/. 


Date. 


.    <  • 


lii: 


1842. 
Mny  27 
June   H 
If) 


18 
li) 
20 
25 
26 
27 
28 
30 
2 


July 


:»im!^:. 


4 
« 
7 
II 
12 
13 
14 
16  I 
23  I 
34  ! 

25  ' 

26  I 
26  I 
28  ] 
29 
30 

Auk.  1 

4 
7 
8 

9 

10 

15 

19 

19 

20 

22 

22 

23 

30 

S«pt.  3 

4 

5 

8 
9 
10 
16 
If. 
17 


Station. 


St.    1,(1111-,  n  <iclnuT  i>t' Ooldiicl  Mrniit 

(Jhdiiti'imV  hivvor  triuiiiiif   |niKt,  Kann-.w  river 

Left  l)!mk  ot  tlii'  KiiiiHtis  rivor,  wvon  niiU'H  ulmvc  tlif 

lord         ...... 

Vrrmillidn  <'rr<'k     ..... 

Colli  !^|iviiii.'s,  iK'iir  till'  roa«l  to  Iinraniir 

Bic  Hluf  river         .  .  -  .  - 

liiltle  nine  riviT     -  .  .  .  . 

HIkIiI  li:ink  nt'  l'l;itti'  river   .  -  -  . 

Hij-lit  liimk  v\  I'liifte  river     -  -  .  - 

Hinlil  hank  ft' I'liit'.f  liver    -  .  .  . 

Uiglit  I'link  ot  IMitlle  nver    -  -  .  - 

.lun(  lion  of  North  mu!   Soulli  forks  of  tlie  Nebranka 

or  iM:,tti-  rivei-     -  .  .  -  . 

South  forktif  I'lulte  riv(  r,  lellbitnk. 
South  (ork  of  I'h'ttr  river,  isliind      ... 
South  fork  of  riiilte  river,  left  Imiik  -  -  - 

South  fork  of  I'l.iUe  iiver,  N|.   Vniin 
(!ro\v  crc.k  ... 

On  :i  s|re;»iii,  nstiiie  unknown 
Horse  c'.rt'k.   (><i-  lien's  fuili'  ' 
Fori  l.;iriiiiiir,  nc.n  tlie  inuuth  ofliarainie 
Norlli  fork  of  I'!;\Ue  liviM-     -  .  .  . 

Nortli  fork  <.f  Platte  river     .... 
IVorlh  fork  \>\  Pkitte  river.  Dried  Moat  ennip 
North  l.>ik  ot  f'liJtU'  rivrr,  !inoM  halt 
North  fork  '>f  Platte  river,  luoulli  of  Deer  creek 
North  fork  of  I'lattr  nver,  Cache  cnnip 
North  t'ork  ot  I'latti   river,  left  hnnk 
North  lork  of  F'lalte  river,  (Joat  isliind 
Sweet  V\'at»  r   rive,-,  one  mil''   lielow   Koek    Indcpt-nd- 

eiiee  --.--. 
Sweet  \\  a'er  nvtr  -..».. 
Sweet  \\  iitei  nver-  .  .  .  . 

Little  f^atulv  enek,    frilmlarv   to  the  Colorado  of  the 

West      -  -  -■  .  .  . 

.New  fork,  tiii'Utary  to  the  Coiorudo 
Mountain  lak(  .  .  .  .  . 

Highest  [leak  of  tl.e  VN'uid  river  moimtaiiis. 
Sweet  "V\'atei,  noon  halt       -  .  .  . 


Ii)rt 


forr 


rNwr 


et  Water  rivi  1 


Sweet  A\  ater  river  -  -  .  . 

Sweet  Water  river,  noau  halt 
Swert  Water  river,  at  Koek  IndrpMidenrr    - 
North  fork  ol   T'lalle  river,  mouth  of  Sweet  ^Vater 


H 


orse 


-shi'C 


halt 


North  fork  o:  IMattc  river,  right  hank 
North  fork  o(  Platte  river,  near  Sfott's  hlui'js 
North  fork  of  Pliit'e  river,  rifrht  bank,  si\  niiief;  above 
Chinincy  r<ifk      -  -  .  .  . 

North  fiirk  of  i'iatte  river,  nioiilh  of  A>.h  errvk 
North  lork  i>f  EM.iltc  river,  right  hank 
North  fork  of  IMatfe  river,  Cedar  blutTs 
Platte  river,  iwcn  halt  -  -  .  . 

Platte  river,  hit  hank  .... 

Platte  river,  kit  luink 


Latitutl 

1. 

I.on 

qiiUuU. 

1 

thf^.  mill 

srr. 

Drfr. 

min,  it( 

1 

:\H    ;)7 

;;4 

■e 

30  O.'i 

57 

94 

25  \- 

■ 

39  06 

40 

95 

38  •■ 

P 

30   1.") 

\\t 

96 

04  ('■ 

30  :}() 

40 

96 

14  1 

3'>  \r, 

08 

96 

32  :i 

, 

40  26 

.50 

98 

22  ; 

40  41 

06 

98 

45  ( 

40  30 

32 

99 

05  1 

40  3!( 

51 

0. 

40  30 

Tm 

100 

05  1 

I 

41      ft.)     05     i   100     4')     < 


40 

51 

17   j 

103 

07 

40 

53 

26 

103 

30  1 

40 

•>»> 

35  i 

105 

12  1. 

40 

41 

59 

104 

57  t. 

41 

OS 

30 

104 

39  i 

41 

40 

13 

104 

24  • 

42 

12 

10 

104 

47  t 

42 

39 

25  ' 

104 

59  f 

42 

47 

40 

A'l 

.")l 

35 

105 

80  1 

\'i 

50 

0« 

42 

5 '2 

24 

106 

08  Z\ 

42 

50 

53 

106 

38  i' 

12 

38 

01 

106 

54  ): 

42 

33 

27 

107 

13  : 

\'l 

29 

56 

107 

25  .: 

42 

32 

31 

108 

30  . 

A'l 

27 

15 

109 

21  >; 

42 

27 

34 

109 

37  ^ 

42 

P2 

46 

109 

58  r. 

4v; 

49 

49 

110 

08  )^ 

42 

24 

32 

42 

o»> 

2?, 

42 

31 

46 

42 

20 

10 

42 

29 

36 

42 

27 

18 

42 

24 

24 

42 

01 

40 

41 

54 

38 

i 

4  1 

43 

36 

i 

•:i 

17 

19 

41 

14 

30 

41 

10 

16 

i 

•50 

.')1 

31 

< 

to 

52 

34 

40 

n 

.18 

I 


[JIM* 

servntioki 

modi 

1.'. 

I'nnnSXaAi. 

1.  xfr. 
'M 

D^tr. 

mtn.  j»f. 

• '  1 

1     94 

25     »• 

10 

95 

38    'V 

\\t 

OG 

04     (■ 

<10 

96 

14     1 

08 

96 

32    :]• 

fiO 

98 

22    ; 

Of) 

1     98 

45     ! 

32 

99 

05     :; 

Til 

f);') 

100 

05     1 

(15 

100 

49    1 

17 

103 

07 

20 

103 

30   r 

:jr) 

105 

12    l: 

59 

104 

57    h 

:io 

104 

39   r 

13 

104 

24     3f 

10 

104 

47     t 

a  5 

104 

59     6 

•10 

35 

105 

50    4 

on 

21 

106 

08    :\ 

53 

106 

38     > 

01 

106 

54     ]'. 

27 

107 

13    : 

5«     j 

107 

25    : 

31 

108 

30     ..! 

15 

109 

21     T. 

34 

109 

37     5 

46 

109 

58      1; 

49 

110 

08    r. 

w] 


<  APT.  KUEMONT'S  NARRAT/VK. 
77j^/f  of  httituili's  find  longittides — Continued. 


85 


% 


■Dste. 

HUitioit. 

LatituiJ 

e. 

■  l842. 

/>;'. 

7)1  PI 

.  sec. 

■ept. 

18 

PUttf  river,  Irlt  hunk 

. 

40 

40 

21 

■ 

19 

Plutto  river,  left  Imiik 

. 

40 

39 

44 

1 

20 

Platti-  rivir,  noon  liall,  M\  iuinW 

. 

40 

4S 

19 

w 

20 

Pliiltc  rivor,  Irt't  bunk 

. 

40 

54 

02 

21 

Pialte  river,  lell  hunk 

. 

41 

05 

37 

23 

I'Uttc  river,  inion  hull,  lelt  hunk 

•             • 

41 

20 

20 

. 

23 

Platte  river,  lell  hunk 

. 

. 

41 

22 

52 

25 

Plutte  river,  nioulli  nl  l.i)U|)  liirk 

41 

'Z-i 

11 

28 

PiutJe  river,  nioiilli  nf  Klli  Horn  river 

41 

09 

34 

29 

Plutte  river,  let\  hank 

- 

41 

02 

15 

0ft 

2 

Beilevue,  ut  llie  |)(>«i  of  the  Ainerieaii  FurCom{j 

any, 

riplil  hunk  ol"  the  Missmiri  river 

. 

41 

08 

21 

1 

4 

Letl  hunk  ut  tile  Miisonri,  (i|i|)OHitc 

tu  the  riKlit 

)urik 

Jl 

of  the  nioutll  ut'the  I'lulte 

. 

- 

41 

02 

11 

■ 

5 

Missouri  river 

. 

- 

40 

34 

08 

1 

6 

Bertholct's  island,  iu»in  halt 

. 

" 

40 

27 

OS 

H 

6 

Missouri  river,  nioutli  of  Nishnalmtona  river 

- 

40 

16 

40 

1 

8 

Missouri  river,,  left  htnik 

. 

3!) 

36 

02 

I 

10 

Missouri  river,  mouth  of  the  Kansas  river 

39 

06 

03 

LuiiKiluJe. 


Dcfr.  min.  see. 


i 


95     20 


"X 


4A: '■]»»• 

'•iflfflL 

■■ 

j^^H 

:^^^H 

■  — ^ 

.    '.  ■   '  f 

;■'■  ^  ■■  ■.'  1 

i 

M 

1 

I 


w^^^ 


i 


A  REPORT 


01   TBS 


EXPLORING  EXPEDITION 


TO 


OREGON  AND  NORTH  CALIFORNIA, 


IN  THE  YEARS  1843-'44. 


I 


Ml 

m 


"^« 


1 


I 


^ 


\ 


8EC0NI"  EXl'ElllTKIN  — 184:{-t  I 


\Va<siiinoto.n  Citv,  March  1,  1815. 
l^Coioiiel  J.  J.  AnrHT, 

j  Chief  nf  the  Corps  of  Topoi^rapliical  Enfrineers: 

f[  Siu:  111  pursiiaiicu  of  your  iiistruclioiKs,  lo  comiect  tlio  rccoiiiioissanci!  of 
4>'^4'J,  which  I  iiud  thc3  honor  to  coiuliict,  with  (ho  surveys  ot  Conimaiidcr 
•IVilkes  on  the  coast  of  ihe  i'acitic  ocean,  so  as  to  L'ive  a  connected  survey 
of  the  interior  of  our  coiitiniMit,  I  proceeded  to  the  (heat  \\  I'st  early  in  the 
jpruig  of  1843,  and  arrived,  on  the  17th  of  May,  at  the  httle  town  of  Kaii- 
jas,  oti  the  Missouri  frontier,  near  the  junction  of  the  Kansas  river  willi 
Ihe  Missouri  river,  wliere  I  was  detained  near  two  weeks  in  completing 
■Ulie  necessary  preparations  for  the  extended  explorations  which  my  instruc- 
tions contemplated. 

)  My  parly  consisted  jirincipally  of  Creole  and  Canadian  Frencli,  and 
Americans,  amounting  in  all  to  'M)  iikmi  ;  anions:  wh  'in  you  will  recognise 
Bcveral  ol' those  who  were  with  me  in  my  fir.^t  expedition,  and  who  have 
been  favorably  hrougiit  to  yoin*  notice  in  a  former  report.  Mr.  Thoma.s 
Fitzpatrick,  whom  many  years  of  hardship  and  exposure  in  the  western 
territories  had  r'lidered  familiar  with  a  portion  of  th(>  country  it  was  de- 
iSigned  to  explore,  had  been  selected  as  our  guide  ;  and  Mr.  (.'Iiarles  Preuss, 
who  had  been  my  assistant  in  the  previous  journey,  was  again  associated 
Avith  mo  in  the  same  ca|iaoiiy  on  the  present  expedition.  Agreeably  to  your 
.directions,  Mr.  Theodore  Talbot,  of  Washington  city,  had  been  attached  to 
the  party,  with  a  view  to  advancement  in  his  profession  ;  and  at  St.  Louis 
I  had  been  joined  by  Mr.  Frederi'/k  Dwight,  a  gentleman  of  Springfield, 
Massachusetts,  who  availed  himself  of  our  overland  journey  to  visit  the 
Sandwich  islands  and  China,  by  way  of  F(;rt  Vancouver. 
The  men  engaged  for  the  service  were  : 


Alexis  Ayot, 
Francois  Badeau, 
Oliver  Beauliei; 
Bapiiste  Bernier. 
John  A.  Cam[)bell, 
John  G.  Campbell, 
Manuel  Chapman, 
Ran.soni  Clark, 
Philibert  Courteau, 
Michel  Crelis, 
William  Creuss, 
Clinton  Deforest, 
Baptiste  Derosier, 
Basil  Lajeunesse, 
Francois  Lajeunesse, 
Henry  Lee, 


Louis  ^fenard, 
Louis  Montreuil, 
Samuel  Neal, 
Alexis  Pera, 
Francois  Per*, 
James  Power, 
Raphael  Proue, 
Oscar  Sarpy, 
Bapiiste  Tabeau, 
Charles  Taplin, 
Baptiste  Tesson, 
Augustc  Vasquez, 
Joseph  Verrot, 
Patrick  White, 
Tiery  Wright, 
Louis  Zindel,  and 


i 


J' 


fH) 


(•AI'T.    KIM'.MDN'IM  NAUKA'I'IN  K. 


[184 


« 

V 


I 


.41 


J.iroli  Dodsoii.  ;i  !>•'•?  youii(<  <'()lt)rt"l  inui  of  Wiisliinsfon  ♦'Ity,  who  V( 
UMt('(!r«>(l  to  .-ii-roiiipany  tln^  rvpi'diiioii,  ami  iiurt'oriiiccl  Ins  duly  manfullj 
tlir<)iii;litmi  lln'  voyui^r.  Two  [)ol;i\vr:ire  Iiidiiiiis— ;i  fine-looUmg  old  noaj 
aiidliissoii — \V(M'(>  f!iigi):;tHl  to  nceoinpaiiy  tlif<>x|»(litioii  as  liuiitcrH.throtii 
lh<!  kiiidiH'ss  ol"  Miijor  ('luumiiis,  lUa  rxclli'iil  Indent  ayont.  L.  Maxw( 
who  had  aocoinpaiiHjd  ihc  tx|n;dilioii  as  one  ul  iht;  hmitiTs  in  IHI-*,  hoii 
on  his  way  to  Taos,  in  New  .Sloxico,  also  join<'d  tis  ai  this  place. 

The  parly  wasarruod  goueraily  with  Hail's  i-aibiiics,  which,  wilh  a  hMsl 
12-lb.  howitzer,  had  been  furnished  to  nu  riorn  the  Ihiilcd  States  arsena  il 
St.  I^oiiis,  a-.Tcoahly  to  the  orders  ol"  Colonel  S.  \V.  Kearney,  coininandi! 
the  M  tnililaiy  division.  Three  men  were  espeeially  detailed  for  tht;  nia 
ugeiueni  ol  this  piece,  under  the  charge  of  Louis  /indel,  a  native  of  (Jeriii 
iiy,  who  had  Ixsen  10  years  a  non-coinniissioned  oliicer  of  artillery  in  tl, 
Prussian  anny,.'»nd  regularly  insiructijd  in  tlu;  duties  of  his  profession.  '11 
camp  e(|nipau;e  and  provisions  were  trans|iori«;d  in  twelve  carts,  drawn  ear 
by  two  mules;  and  a  lii,dit  covered  wai^on,  mounted  on  f^ood  springs,  li;i 
been  provided  for  the  safer  carriai^'o  of  the  insiriimeiits.     These  were  : 

One  refracting  telescope,  by  Frauenhofer. 

One  reliectiiig  circle,  by  Gaml)ey. 

Two  sextants,  by  Troughlon. 

One  pocket  chronometer.  No.  8:37,  by  (Jolfc,  Falmouth. 

One  pocket  chronometer.  No.  73!),  by  Hrockbank. 

One  syphon  barometer,  by  liimten,  I'aris. 

One  cistern  barometer,  by  Frye  &  Shaw,  Ncsw  York. 

Six  thermometers,  and  a  munbcr  of  small  compasses. 

To  make  the  exploration  as  useful  as  possible,  1  determined,  in  conforiii 
ity  to  your  general  instructions,  to  vary  the  route  to  the  Rocky  mountaii; 
from  tliat  followed  in  the  year  1842.  The  route  then  was  up  the  valley  o 
the  Great  Platte  river  to  the  South  Pass,  in  north  latitude  42^;  the  roui' 
now  determined  on  was  up  the  valley  of  the  Kansas  river,  and  to  the  heai 
of  the  Arkansas,  and  to  some  pass  in  the  mountains,  if  any  could  be  found 
at  the  sources  of  that  river. 

By  makin;^  this  deviation  from  the  former  route,  the  problem  of  a  new 
road  to  Oregon  and  California,  in  a  climate  more  genial,  might  bo  solved 
and  a  better  knowledge  obtained  of  an  important  river,  and  the  country  r 
drained,  while  the  great  object  of  the  expedition  would  find  its  point  o: 
conmienuemiMit  at  the  termination  of  the  former,  which  was  at  that  grou 
gate  in  the  ridg(j  of  the  Rocky  mountains  called  the  South  Pass,  and  on  tlH 
lofty  peak  of  the  mountain  which  overlooks  it,  deemed  the  highest  peak  ii. 
the  ridge,  and  from  the  opposite  sides  of  which  four  great  rivers  take  their 
rise,  and  llow  to  the  Pacific  or  the  Mississippi, 

Various  obstacles  delayed  our  departure  until  the  morning  of  the  2in\i 
when  we  commenced  our  long  voyage  ;  and  at  the  close  of  a  day,  rendered 
disagreeably  cold  by  incessant  rain,  encamped  about  four  miles  beyond  the 
frontier,  on  the  verge  of  the  great  prairies. 

Resuming  our  journey  on  the  3lst,  after  the  delay  of  a  day  to  completi 
our  equipment  and  furnish  ourselves  with  some  of  the  comforts  of  civilizeJ 
life,  we  encamped  in  the  evening  at  Elm  Grove,  in  company  with  severa 
emigrant  wagons,  constituting  a  party  which  was  proceeding  to  Upper  Cal- 
ifornia, under  the  direction  of  Mr.  .1.  B.  Childs,  of  Missouri.  The  wagoiij 
were  variously  freighted  with  goods,  furniture,  and  farming  utensils,  eoli- 


th* 


f\rr  FKKMr»rH  nakkativk. 


n 


ton  city,  who  vfl 
his  (hity  manfullJ 
;-lo()kiii^  old  (Daj 
s  hunters,  throijj 
Jilt.     I,.  Maxwe 

iTS  ill    18  I  J,  hcig 

lis  plucu. 
'hich,  with  ;i  hraJ 
(I  Siatt's  ars<,'ii;i  \ 
Muy,  comfimiidii 
ail(!(l  for  th«  mm 
imlivo  of  (Joriii 
if  artillery  in  tl, 
s  profession.    Tl 
carts,  drawn  ear 
u;oo(l  springs,  ji,, 
Those  were  : 


inod,  in  conforn, 
ioclcy  niountaii; 
i  lip  the  valley  0 
«  42^ ;  the  rout' 
and  to  iho  lieaL 
conUl  he  found 

ohiem  of  a  new 
night  be  solved 
id  the  country  i 

ind  its  point  o: 
as  at  that  groa 
Pass,  and  on  tli-; 

highest  peak  II 

ivors  take  ihei: 

ing  of  the  2J)tli. 
a  day,  rendereii 
iles  beyond  llie 

lay  to  completf 
orts  of  civilized 
ly  with  severa 
g  to  Upper  Cal- 
The  wagoui 
[  utensils,  ecu- 


liiifi;  nuu)nt(  other  tiiinpR  an  entire  set  of  niaehitiery  for  a  null  which  Mr. 
liMs  ilesi^ned  erectlll^  on  the  waters  of  the  Saeranionto  river  omplyiiig 
r)  ill''  hay  of  San  Kraiuisco. 

W'c  wre  jftiiied  lu!re  by  Mr.  William  (iilpin,  of  Mivsouri,  who,  intending 

Is  year  to  vnii  the  ^cttlenionis  in  Orev^on.  had  been  iiivitcd  to  accoiiipauy 

^  and  proved  a  useful  and  agrroable  addition  to  the  party,    Frotn  ihiscu* 

inpMieiit,  oin  route  until  the  'id  of  June  was  nearly  the  same  as  that  de- 

ribed  lo  you  in  1S4'.*.    Trains  r)f  wau'ons  were  almost  eoiisiaiilly  m  sight  ; 

'iiiL'  U)llie  load  a  populous  and  aiiimali  d  appearance,  although  the  great* 

portion  of  the  emigrants  were  collected  at  the  crossing,  or  already  on 

Mk'ir  march  beyond  the  Kansas  river. 

Ijeaviiit?  at  the  ford  the  u^iia!  emigrant  road  to  the  mountains,  we 
OBnimued  our  route  along  the  souihern  side  oj  the  Kati.sas,  where  we 
flblmd  the  eotmiry  nuieh  more  broken  than  on  ttii:  northern  side  of  the 
rtrer,  and  where  our  progress  was  much  delayed  by  the  numerous  small 
fUeains,  wliirh  obligrd  US  to  mak<!  fre<iiieMt  brid:;es.  On  ihe  morning  of 
file  'Uli,  we  crossed  a  bandsomt!  stream,  railed  by  the  Indians  ()tt(!r  creek, 
lR>out  1.30  feet  wid(!,  whore  a  Hat  stratum  of  liiiKJstone,  which  forms  the 
bud,  madv  an  e.xeollent  ford.  We  met  here  a  small  party  of  Kansas  and 
flk'lawaic  Indians,  the  latt(?r  returning  from  a  hunting  and  trapj)ing  expe- 
^tion  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  iiver;  and  "ii  the  heights  above  were 
#rc  or  six  Kansas  women,  engaged  in  digging  prairie  potatoes,  {psoralca 
dfcu/cnffi.)  On  the  afternoon  of  the  titli,  while  busily  engaged  in  crossing 
■  wooded  stream,  we  were  thrown  into  a  lilile  eoiifusion  Ity  the  sudden  ar- 
•vnl  of  Maxwell,  who  entered  the  caMi|>  at  full  speed  at  the  head  of  a  war 
pirty  of  Obage  In(lian>^.  with  gay  red  blankets,  and  heads  shaved  to  the 
ICalp  lock.  They  had  run  him  a  distanc*-  of  about  nine  miles,  from  a  creek 
0t\  whicii  wo  had  encamped  the  day  i)revi(Uis,  and  to  wfiirh  he  bad  re- 
tferncd  in  search  of  a  runaway  horse  belonging'  to  .Mr.  Dwight,  which  had 
liken  the  homeward  road,  carrying  with  linn  saddle,  bridle,  and  holster 
rfistols.  The  Osages  were  probably  ignorant  of  our  strength,  and,  when 
fhey  charged  into  the  oanip,  drove  ofl'a  number  of  our  best  horses;  but  we 
^ere  fortunately  W(^ll  mounted,  and,  alter  a  liard  cluibO  of  seven  or  eight 
tfliiles,  succeeded  in  recovering  them  all.  'i'his  accident,  which  occasioned 
delay  and  trouble,  and  threatened  danger  and  loss,  and  broke  down  some 
good  horses  at  the  start,  and  actually  endangered  the  expedition,  was  a  first 
nuit  of  having  genilenien  in  company — very  (.stimable,  to  be  sure,  but  who 
ire  not  trained  to  the  care  and  vigilance  and  seli'-dcpendenee  which  such  an 
Expedition  required,  and  who  are  not  subject  [d  the  orders  which  enforce 
Ittention  and  exertion.  We  arrived  on  the  Stli  at  the  mouth  of  the  Smoky- 
hill  fork,  which  is  the  piincipal  southern  branch  of  the  Kansas;  forming 
kcre,  by  its  junction  with  the  Republican,  or  northern  branch,  the  main 
Kansas  river.  Neither  stream  was  fordable,  and  the  necessity  of  making 
'i  raft,  together  with  "jud  weather,  detained  us  here  until  the  morning  of 
ftie  11th;  when  we  r?siimcd  our  journey  along  the  Republican  fork.  By 
qur  observations,  the  junction  of  the  streams  i.s  in  latitude  39'' 03' 38",  longi- 
tude 96°  24'  56",  and  at  an  elevation  of  9i2G  feet  above  the  gulf  of  Mexico. 
J'or  -evoral  days  we  continued  to  travel  along  the  Republican,  through  a 
fcourifvy  beiutilully  watered  with  numerous  streams,  handsomely  timbered; 
ind  i;iiely  an  incident  occurred  to  vary  the  monotonous  resemblance  which 
One  day  o.i  the  prairies  here  bears  to  another,  and  which  scarcely  require 


s., 


*t>. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


/. 


y^:^ 


•^'  ^,V  ^. 


V    ^"  //  ^ 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


1^  1^    II'"  .2 
^   ^    ^ 

I    "-    IIIIIM 

but. 

Illll  1.8 


1.4    ill  1.6 


V] 


<^ 


/2 


/: 


%  ^>  ^ 


^^^: 


y 


^ 


Photograpinc 

Sciences 

Corpomiion 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


c,i 


CAPT.  FREM(JNT>i  NARRATIVE. 


[1843 


•  'J': 


a  particular  description.  Now  and  then,  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  small 
herd  of  elk  ;  and  occasionally  a  band  of  antelopes,  whose  curiosity  someJ 
times  brought  them  within  rille  range,  would  circle  round  us,  and  theuj 
scour  off  into  the  prairies.  As  we  advanced  on  our  road,  these  became! 
more  frequent ;  but  as  we  journeyed  on  the  line  usually  followed  by  the 
trapping  and  hunting  parties  of  the  Kansas  and  r<i.'  xware  Indians,  game 
of  every  kind  continued  very  shy  and  wild.  The  bottoms  which  form  thel 
immediate  valley  of  the  main  river  were  generally  about  three  miles  wide;| 
having  a  rich  soil  of  black  vegetable  mould,  and,  for  a  prairie  country,  well 
interspersed  with  wood.  The  country  was  every  where  covered  with  ul 
considerable  variety  of  grasses — occasionally  poor  and  thin,  but  far  morei 
frequently  luxuriant  and  rich.  We  had  been  gradually  and  regularly  as- 
cending in  our  progress  westward,  and  on  the  evening  of  the  14th,  when 
we  encamped  on  a  little  creek  in  the  valley  of  the  Republican,  2G5  miles 
by  our  travelling  road  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas,  we  were  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  1,520  feet.  That  part  of  the  river  where  we  were  now  encamped  is 
called  by  the  Indians  the  Bis^  Ti7nbe7\  Hitherto  our  route  had  been  laborious 
and  extremely  slow,  the  unusually  wet  spring  and  constant  rain  having  so 
.saturated  the  whole  country  that  it  was  necessary  to  bridge  every  water- 
course, and,  for  days  together,  our  usual  march  averaged  only  five  or  six 
miles.  Fhidingthat  at  such  a  rate  of  travel  it  would  be  iniposible  to  com- 
ply with  your  instructions,  I  determined  at  this  place  to  divide  the  party, 
and,  leaving  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  with  25  men  in  charge  of  the  provisions  and 
heavier  baggage  of  the  camp,  to  proceed  nyo^if  in  advance,  with  a  light 
party  of  15  men,  taking  with  me  the  howilz«r  and  the  light  wagon  which 
carried  the  instruments. 

Accorduigly,on  the  morning  of  the  16th,  the  parties  separated  ;  and,  bear- 
ing a  little  out  from  the  river,  with  a  view  of  heading  some  of  the  numerous 
afflueHts,  after  a  few  hours'  travel  over  somewhat  broken  ground,  we  en- 
tered upon  an  extensive  and  high  level  prairie,  on  which  we  encamped  to- 
wards evening  at  a  little  stream,  where  a  single  dry  cottonwood  afforded  the 
necessary  fuel  for  preparing  supper.  Among  a  variety  of  grasses  whicK  to- 
day made  their  first  appearance,  I  noticed  bunch  grass,  {festucu,)  and  butfalc 
grass,  {sesleria  dactyloiJes.)  Amorpha  canescens  {lead  plant)  continued 
the  characteristic  plant  of  the  country,  and  a  narrow-leaved  lathyrus  oc- 
curred during  the  morning  in  beautiful  patches.  Sida  coccinea  occurred 
frequently,  with  a  psoi^alia  near  paoralia  Jloribxinda^  and  a  number  of 
plants  not  hitherto  met,  just  verging  into  bloom.  The  water  on  which  we 
had  encamped  belonged  to  Solomon's  fork  of  the  Smoky-hill  river,  along 
.whose  tributaries  we  continued  to  travel  for  several  days. 

The  country  afforded  us  an  excellent  road,  the  route  being  generally 
over  high  and  very  level  prairies ;  and  we  met  with  no  other  delay  than  be- 
ing frequently  obliged  to  bridge  one  of  the  numerous  streams,  which  were 
well  limbered  with  ash,  elm,  cottonwood,  and  a  very  large  oak — the  latter 
being,  occasionally,  five  and  six  feet  in  diameter,  with  a  spreading  summit, 
Sida  coccinea  is  very  frequent  in  vermilion-colored  patches  on  the  high 
and  low  prairie  ;  and  I  remarked  that  it  has  a  very  pleasant  perfume. 

The  wild  sensitive  plant  {schrankia  angustata)  occurs  frequently,  gen- 
erally on  the  dry  prairies,  in  Valleys  of  streams,  and  frequently  on  the  broken 
prairie  bank.  I  remark  that  the  leaflets  close  instantly  to  a  very  light  touch. 
t^^morpha,  with  the  same  psoralen,  and  a  dwarf  species  of  lupinus,  are  the 
characteristic  plants. 


;ai 
a: 
ing 
lay 
ind 
lior 


CAPT.  f'rkm.;:;t8  iNAiatATivi;. 


')} 


impse  of  a  small 
!  curiosity  somel 
id  us,  and  thenl 
id.  these  becamel 
followed  by  the 
B  Ijidians,  game 
!  which  form  the! 
iree  miles  wide;| 
rio  country,  wel 
covered  with  al 
in,  but  far  more' 
nd  rej^ularly  as- 
'  the  14th,  when 
)lican,  2G5  miles 
rere  at  an  eleva- 
ow  encamped  is 
d  been  laborious 
t  rain  liaving  so 
ge  every  water- 
only  five  or  six 
iiposible  to  com- 
livide  the  party, 
3  provisions  and 
ice,  with  a  light 
It  wagon  which 

ated ;  and,  bear- 
of  the  numerous 
ground,  we  en- 
e  encamped  to- 
ood  afforded  the 
rasses  which  to- 
rca,)andbulfalc 
lani)  continued 
ed  lathyrus  oc- 
ccinea  occurred 
d  a  number  of 
er  on  which  we 
lill  river,  along 

3eing  generally 
r  delay  than  be- 
ns, which  were 
oak — the  latter 
wading  summit, 
es  on  the  high 
t  perfume, 
requently,  gen- 
y  on  the  broken 
ery  light  touch. 
ipinus,  are  the 


1843.] 

On  the  lf)th,  in  the  afternoon,  we  crossed  the  Pawnee  road  to  the  Ar- 
ansas, and,  travelling  a  few  miles  onward,  the  monotony  of  the  prairies 
as  suddenly  dispelled  by  the  appearance  of  five  or  six  bnfialo  bulls,  forni- 
ng  a  vanguard  ot'  immense  herds,  among  which  we  were  travelling  a  few 
ays  afterwards.  Prairie  dogs  were  seen  for  the  lirsi  lime  during  tlie  day; 
nd  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  obtain  an  ant(;lope  for  supper.  Our  eleva- 
ion  had  now  increased  to  l,f)00  feet.  Sui(/  coccinca  was  a  characteristic 
n  the  creek  bottoms,  and  b'.ifl'alo  grass  is  becoming  abundant  on  the  higher 
arts  of  the  ridges. 

June  21. — During  the  forenoon  we  travelled  np  a  branch  of  the  creek  on 
ivhich  we  had  encamped, in  a  broken  country,  where,  however,  the  dividing 
'ridges  always  aTordcd  a  good  ri  ad.  Plants  were  few  ;  and  with  the 
short  sward  of  the  bnllalo  grass,  wliich  now  prevailed  every  where,  giving 
to  the  prairies  a  smooth  and  mossy  appearance,  were  mingled  frequent 
patches  of  a  beautiful  red  grass,  {aristida  pdlleus.)  wlucii  had  made  its  ap- 
pearance only  within  the  last  few  days. 

We  halted  to  noon  at  a  solitary  cottonwooJ  in  a  hollow,  near  which  was 
killed  the  first  buffalo,  a  large  old  bull. 

Antelope  appeared  in  bands  during  the  day.  Crossing  here  to  the  affluents 
of  the  Republican,  we  encamped  on  a  fork,  about  forty  feet  wide  and  one 
loot  deep,  llowing  with  a  swift  current  over  a  sandy  I'cd,  and  well  wooded 
jwith  ash-leaved  maple,  {negutido  fraxinijoliton,)  elm,  cottonwood,  and  a 
;few  white  oaks.     We  were  visited  in  the  evening  by  a  very  violent  storm, 
;accompaniedby  wind,  lightning, and  thunder;  a  cold  rain  f.\lling  in  torrents. 
According  to  llie   barometer,  our  elevation   was  2,130  feet  above  the  gulf 
At  noon,  on  the  23d,  we  descended  into  the  valley  of  a  principal  fork  of 
the  Republican,  a  beautiful  stream  with  a  dense  border  of  wood,  consisting 
principally  of  varieties  of  ash,  forty  feet  wide  and  four  feet  deep.  It  was  mu- 
'sical  with  the  notes  of  many  birds,  which,  from  the  vast  expanse  of  silent 
jprairie  around,  seemed  all  to  have  collected  here.     We  continued  during 
the  afternoon  our  route  along  the  river,  which  was  populous  with  prairie 
dogs,  (the  bottoms  being  entirely  occupied  with  their  villages,)  and  late  in 
'the  evening  encamped  on  its  banks.  The  prevailing  timber  is  a  blue-foliaged 
;ash,  [fraxirms,  near  F.  Jimericana,)  and  ash-leaved  maple.     With  these 
iWerefraxi7iuf{  ►iwer/c«?2^/,  cottonwood, and  long-leaved  willow.  We  gave 
!to  this  stream  the  name  of  Prairie  Dog  river.     Elevation  3,350  feet.     Our 
jroad  on  the  25th  lay  over  high  smooth  ridges,  3,100  feet  above  the  sea; 
Ibuffalo  in  great  numbers,  absolutely  covering  the  face  of  the  country.     At 
ieveningwe  encamped  within  a  few  miles  of  the  main  Republican,  on  a  lit- 
|tle  creek,  where  the  air  was  fragrant  with  the  perfume  oi artemuia  fili/olia , 
which  we  here  saw  for  the  first  time,  and  which  was  now  in  bloom.  Shortly 
•after  leaving  our  encampment  on  the  26th,  we  found  suddenly  that  the  na- 
;tnre  of  the  country  had  entirely  changed.  Bare  sand  hills  every  where  sur- 
I  rounded  us  in  the  undulating  ground  along  which  we  were  moving;  and 
Uhe  plants  peculiar  to  a  .^andy  soil  made  their  appearance  in  abundance.  A 
i  few  miles  further  we  entered  the  valley  of  a  large  stream,  afterwards  known 
itobe  the  Republican  fork  of  the  Kansas,  whose  shallow  waters,  with  a 
depth  of  only  a  few  inches,  were  spread  out  over  a  bed  of  yellowish  white 
sand  600  yards  wide.     With  the  exception  of  one  or  two  distant  and  de- 
tached groves,  no  limber  of  any  kind  was  to  be  seen;  and  the  features  of 
the  country  assumed  a  desert  character,  with  which  the  broad  river,  strug- 
gling for  existence  among  quicksands  along  tlie  treeless  banks,  was  strik- 


K  -1  ■' 


i'jy 


.   I 


■m 


I* 


:'.V   •> 


04 


CAPT.  FRKMONT'S  NAKRATIVE. 


[1843J 


iMgly  ill  kneping.  On  the  opposite  side,  the  broken  ridges  assumed  almos 
a  mountainous  appcaranee  ;  and,  Ibrdini?  the  stream,  we  continued  on  ourj 
course  among  these  ridges,  and  encami)ed  late  in  the  evening  at  a  little  poiidl 
of  very  bad  water,  from  which  we  arove  away  a  herd  of  bnli'alo  that  werel 
standing  in  and  about  it.  Our  encampment  this  evening  was  3,500  feetj 
above  the  sea.  Wc  (ravelled  now  for  several  days  through  a  broken  aiidj 
dry  sandy  region,  i  bont  4,000  feet  above  the  sea,  where  there  were  no  run. 
ning  streams;  and  some  anxiety  was  constantly  felt  on  account  of  the  uii'l 
certainly  of  water,  which  w;is  only  to  be  found  in  small  lakes  that  occur.l 
red  occasionally  among  the  lulls.  The  discovery  of  lhe.se  always  brouglu] 
pleasure  to  the  camp,  as  around  them  were  generally  green  flats,  wliicli  af. 
forded  abundant  pasturage  for  out  animals  ;  and  here  were  usually  collected' 
lierds  of  the  buffalo,  which  now  were  scattered  over  all  tjie  country  in 
countless  numbers. 

The  soil  of  bare  and  hot  sands  supported  a  varied  and  exuberant  growth 
of  plants,  which  v,  ere  much  I'urlher  advanced  than  we  had  pr(3viously  found 
them,  and  whose  showy  bloom  somewhat  relieved  the  appearance  of  gene- 
ral sterility.  Crossing  ilu^,  sunnnit  of  an  elevated  and  coiUinuous  range  ol 
rolling  hills,  on  the  afternoon  of  the  30th  of  June  wc  found  ourselves  over- 
looking a  broad  and  misty  valley,  where,  about  ten  miles  distant,  and  1,000 
feet  below  us,  the  South  fork  of  I'le  Platte  was  rolling  njagiiificcntly  along, 
swollen  with  the  waters  of  the  melting  snows.  It  was  in  strotig  and  re- 
freshing contrast  with  the  parched  eoimtry  from  which  we  had  just  issued; 
and  when,  at  night,  the  broad  expanse  of  water  grew  indistinct,  it  almost 
seemed  that  we  had  pitched  our  tetits  on  the  shore  of  the  sea. 

Travelling  along  i\\>  the  valley  of  the  river,  here  4,000  feet  above  the  sea, 
in  the  afternoon  of  .Tuly  1  we  caught  a  far  and  uncertain  view  of  a  faint 
blue  mass  in  the  west,  as  the  sun  sank  behind  it ;  and  from  our  camp  in  the 
morning,  at  the  mouth  of  Uijou,  Long's  peak  and  the  neighboring  moun- 
tains stood  out  into  the  sky,  grand  and  luminously  white,  covered  to  their 
bases  with  glittering  snow. 

On  the  evening  of  the  3d,  as  we  were  journeying  along  the  partially  over- 
flowed bottoms  of  the  Platte,  where  our  passage  stirred  up  swarms  of  mos- 
quitoes, wo  came  imexpectedly  upon  an  Indian,  who  was  perched  on  a 
bluff,  curiously  watching  the  movements  of  our  caravan.  He  belonged  to 
a  village  of  Oglallah  Sioux,  who  had  lost  all  their  animals  in  the  severity 
of  the  preceding  winter,  and  wire  now  on  their  way  up  the  liijou  fork  to 
beg  horses  from  the  Arapahoes,  who  were  hunting  buffalo  at  the  head  of 
that  river.  Several  came  into  our  camp  at  noon  ;  and,  as  they  were  iiangry, 
as  usual,  they  were  provided  with  buffalo  meat,  of  which  the  hunters  had 
brought  in  an  abundant  supply. 

About  noon,  on  the  4th  of  July,  we  arrived  at  the  fort,  where  Mr.  St. 
Vrain  received  us  with  his  customary  kindness,  and  invited  us  to  join  him 
in  a  feast  which  had  been  prepared  in  honor  of  the  day. 

Our  animals  were  very  much  worn  out,  and  our  stock  of  provisions  en- 
tirely exhausted  when  we  arrived  at  the  fort;  but  I  was  disappointed  in  ray 
hope  of  obtaining  relief,  as  I  found  it  in  a  very  impoverished  condition  ;  and 
we  were  able  to  procure  only  a  little  unbolted  Mexican  flour,  and  some 
salt,  with  a  few  pounds  of  powder  and  lead. 

As  regarded  provisions,  it  did  not  much  matter  in  a  country  where  rarely 
the  day  passed  without  seeing  some  kind  of  game,  and  where  it  wets  fre- 
quently abundant.     It  was  a  rare  thing  to  lie  down  hungry,  and  we  had  al- 


Un 
"hil 


1 


assumed  almos. 
loiiliiiued  on  our 
'^lit  a  litdi;  poiidl 
uH'tilo  that  were! 
J  was  .3,500  feetl 
;Ii  a  broken  audi 
urc  were  norun-[ 
:ouni  ot'  the  unJ 
alces  that  occur, 
always  brought 
I  Hats,  which  af-, 
usually  collected' 

I  tJie  country  in 

:uberaut  growth 
Teviously  found 
caranceof  gene- 
inuoiis  range  ot 
ourselvcji  over- 
stunt,  and  1,000 
iiificcnlly  along, 

II  strong  and  re- 
had  just  issued; 
istinct,  it  almost 
ea. 

et  above  the  sea. 

view  of  a  faint 
our  camp  in  the 

hboi-i)ig  mouu- 
covercd  to  their 

i  partially  over- 
iwarnis  of  mos- 
s  perched  on  a 
He  belonged  to 

in  the  severity 
le  Bijou  fork  to 
I  at  the  head  of 
y  were  h angry, 

le  hunters  liad 

where  Mr.  St. 
us  to  join  him 

provisions  en- 
:»pointedinmy 
condition  ;  and 
our,  and  some 

r  where  rarely 
ere  it  was  fre- 
nd  we  had  al- 


1843.] 


(Arr.   FI{E.Vlt)NTS  NAKKATIVE. 


95 


ready  learned  to  think  bread  a  luxury ;  but  we  could  not  proroed  without 
animals,  and  our  own  wvva  not  capable  of  prosecuting  the  journey  beyond 
the  mountains  without  relief. 

I  had  been  informed  that  a  large  number  of  mules  had  recently  arrived 
at  Taos,  froui  U|)[)er  Calilbniia  ,  and  as  our  friend,  Mr.  Maxwell,  was 
about  to  continue  liis  journey  to  that  [ilaco,  where  a  portion  of  liis  family 
resided,  I  engaged  him  to  purchase  for  me  10  or  12  nmles,  with  the  un- 
derstanding that  he  ishould  pack  them  with  provisions  and  other  necessa- 
ries, and  meet  me  at  ihe  month  of  the  Fontaine  qui  hoii//,  on  the  Arkan- 
sas river,  to  which  point  I  would  be  led  in  the  course  of  the  survey. 

Agreeal)Iy  to  iiis  (»wn  re(piest.  ami  ui  the  conviction  that  his  habits  of 
life  and  education  had  not  tpialified  hii.i  to  endure  the  hard  lite  of  a  voy- 
I  ageur,  I  discharged  here  one  of  my  i)arty.  Mr.  Oscar  Sarpy,  having  furnished 
'him  with  arms  and  \neans  ol'  traiisport;ition  to  Fort  Laramie,  where  he 
would  be  in  the  line  of  caravan.s  returning  to  the  States. 
At  daybreak,  on  the  fith  of  July,  Maxwell  was  on  his  way  to  Taos  ;  and 
j  a  few  hours  af'.er  we  also  had  recommenced  our  journey  up  the  Platte, 
j  which  was  contiiuiously  limbered  with  coltonwood  and  willow,  on  a  gen- 
-  orally  sandy  soil.     Passing  on  the  way  the  remains  of  two  abandoned 
j  forts,  (one  of  which,  however,  was  .still  m  good  condition,)  ue  reached,  in 
j  10  miles,  Fort  Lancaster,  the  trading  establishment  tif  Mr.  l.uptoii.  His  post 
I  was  beginning  to  assume  the  ap[)oarance  of  a  comfortable  farm  :  stock,  hogs, 
laud  cattle,  were  ranging  about  on  ilie  prairie  :  there  were  dilferent  kinds 
I  of  poultry  ;  and  there  was  the  wreck  of  a  promising  garden,  in  which  a 
I  considerable  variety  of  vegetables  liad  been  in  a  nourishing  condition,  but 
lit  had  been  almost  etilircly  mined  by  the  recent  high  waters.     I  remained 
I  to  spend  willi  him  an  agreeable  iiour,  and  sat  olf  in  a  coid  storm  of  rain, 
I  which  was  accompaniod  with  violent  thunder  and  lightning.  ^Ve  encamped 
I  immediately  on  the  river,  l(i  miles  from  St.  Vram's.     Several  Arapalioes, 
on  their  way  to  the  village  which  was  encauiped  a  few  miles  above  us, 
passed  by  the  camp  in  (he  course  oi  the  afternoon.     Night  sat  in  stormy 
"and  cold,  with  lieavy  and  continuous  rain,  which  lasted  until  morning. 
Juh/  7. — We  made  this  morning  an  early  start,  continuing  to  travel  up 
the  Platte  ;  and  in  a  few  miles  frequent  bands  of  horses  and  mules,  scatter- 
ed for  several  miles  round  about,  indicated  our  approach  to  the  Arapaho 
I  village,  which  we  found  encamiicd  ni  a  beautiful  bottom,  and  consisting  of 
about  160  lodges.     It  appeared  extremely  populous,  with  a  great  number 
of  children;  a  circumstance  which  indicated  a  regular  supply  of  the  means 
of  subsistence.     The  chiefs,  who  were  gathered  together  at  the  farther  end 
of  the  village,  receiVv.d  us  (as  probably  strangers  are  always  received  to 
whom  they  desire  to  show  respect  or  regard)  by  throwing  their  arms  around 
four  necks  and  embracing  us. 

I  It  required  some  skill  in  horsemanship  to  keep  the  .'^addle  during  the  per- 
Ubrmance  of  this  ceremony,  as  our  American  horses  exhibited  for  them  the 
I  same  fear  they  have  for  a  bear  or  any  other  wild  animal.  Having  very  few 
I  goods  with  me,  I  was  only  able  to  make  them  a  meager  present,  accounting 
|ibr  the  poverty  of  the  gift  by  explaining  that  my  goods  had  f  en  left  whh 
!  the  wagons  in  charge  of  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  who  was  well  known  to  them  as 
I  the  White  Head,  or  the  Broken  Hand.  I  saw  here,  as  I  had  remarked  in 
I  an  Arapaho  village  the  preceding  year,  near  the  lodges  of  the  chiefs,  tall 
I  tripods  of  white  poles  supporting  their  spears  and  shields,  which  showed  it 
I  to  be  a  regular  custom. 


!- 


V 


m 

mm 


mm 


i: 


M' 


■^k 


\yS,..'jf\' 


>G 


LAIT.   FKEMONTH  NAKKATIVE. 


[1843. 


>. " 


TliouL'^h  disappointed  in  ohtaitiin^  tlic  presents  which  had  been  evident- 
ly exp«itt«'d,  ihey  behaved  very  courteously.  aii(J,  after  a  httie  conversation, I 
Holt  tht.iti,  and,  conliuuiiifj^  on  up  thi;  river,  haUoil  to  noon  on  the  bluff, 
as  the  boliopis  arc  ahnost  inundated;  continuini>[  in  the  afternoon  our 
route  along  the  mountains,  which  were  dark,  misty,  and  sfirouded — threat- 1 
cning  a  storm  ;  the  snow  peaks  sometimes  i,'hltering  through  the  ck)uds  be- 
yond the  first  ridi^e. 

We  surprised  a  izrizzly  bear  saiuiteritiii;  ah)ni»  the  river;  which,  raising! 
himself  ui)on  his  hmd  legs,  took  a  deliberate  survey  of  us,  that  did  not  ap- 
pear very  satisfactory  to  him,  and  he  scrambled  into  the  river  and  swam 
to  the  opposite  side.  We  halted  for  the  night  a  little  above  Cherry  creek  , 
the  evening  cloudy,  with  many  mosquitoes.  Souic  indithirent  observation'^ 
jdaced  the  camp  in  latitude  MV  43'  5J",  and  chronomttric  longitude  lOfi'i 
1*4'  34".  I 

Ju/i/  .'■'. — We  continued  to-day  to  travel  up  the  Platte;  the  morning  pleas- 
ant,  with  a  prospect  of  fairer  weather.  Ihn  .ng  the  forenoon  our  way  lay 
over  a  more  broken  country,  with  a  gravelly  and  sandy  surface  ;  altiiougli 
the  immediate  bottom  of  the  river  was  a  good  soil,  of  a  dark  sandy  mould, 
resting  upon  a  stralum  of  large  pebbies,  or  rolleil  stones,  as  at  Laramie  fork. 
On  our  righf,  and  apparently  very  near,  but  probably  Sor  10  miles  distant, 
and  two  or  three  thousand  feet  above  us,  ran  the  first  range  of  the  moun- 
tains, like  a  dark  corniced  line,  in  clear  contrast  with  the  great  snowy  chain 
which,  imn)ediulely  beyond,  rose  glittering  five  thousand  feet  above  them. 
We  caught  this  morning  a  view  of  Pike's  peak  ;  but  it  appeared  for  a  mo- 
ment only,  as  clouds  rose  early  over  the  mountains,  and  sfirouded  them  in 
mist  and  rain  all  the  day.  In  the  first  range  were  visible,  as  at  the  Red 
Buttes  on  the  North  fork,  very  lofty  escarpments  ol  red  rock.  While  trav- 
elling through  this  region,  I  remarked  that  always  in  the  morning  the  lofty 
peaks  were  visible  and  bright,  but  very  soon  small  white  clouds  began  to 
settle  around  them — brewing  thickr^r  and  darker  as  the  day  advanced,  until 
the  afternoon,  when  the  thunder  began  to  roll  ;  and  invariably  at  evening 
we  had  more  or  less  of  a  thimder  storm.  At  1 1  o'clock,  and  21  miles  from 
St.  Vrain's  fort,  we  readied  a  point  in  this  southern  fork  of  the  Platte,  where 
the  stream  is  divided  into  three  folks;  two  of  these  (one  of  them  being  much 
the  largest)  issuing  directly  from  the  mountains  on  the  west,  and  forming, 
with  the  easternmost  branch,  a  river  of  the  plains.  The  elevation  of  this 
point  i'?  about  5.500  feet  above  the  sea  ;  this  river  faUing  2,S00  feet  in  a 
distance  of  31G  miles,  to  its  junction  with  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte.  In 
this  estimate,  the  elevation  of  the  junction  is  assumed  as  given  by  our  bar- 
ometrical observations  in  1S42. 

On  the  easternmost  branch,  up  which  we  took  our  way,  we  first  came 
among  the  pines  growing  on  the  top  of  a  very  high  bank,  and  where  we 
halted  on  it  to  noon  ;  quaking  asp  (populus  tremuloides)  was  mixed  with 
the  Cottonwood,  and  there  were  excellent  grviss  and  rushes  for  the  animals. 

During  the  morning  there  occurred  many  beautiful  flowers,,  which  we 
had  not  hitherto  met.  Among  them,  the  common  blue  flowering  flax  made 
its  first  appearance  ;  and  a  tall  and  handsome  species  oi gilia^  with  slender 
scarlet  flowers,  which  appeared  yesterday  for  the  first  time,  was  very  fre- 
quent to-day. 

We  had  found  very  little  game  since  leaving  the  fort,  and  provisions  be- 
gan to  get  unpleasantly  scant,  as  we  had  had  no  meat  for  several  days  ;  but 
towards  sundown,  when  we  had  already  made  up  our  minds  to  sleep  another 


■  •y 


[1843.1 

(1  boon  evident, 
le  coiiversution, 
Dti  on  the  bluff, 
afternoon  our 
•nnded — threat. 
\\  tlio  clouds  be- 

whicii,  raising 
that  did  not  up- 
river  and  swam' 
!  Cherry  creek  . 
ml  observation^ 

longitude  lo/'i 

morning  plcas- 

on  our  way  lay 

rface  ;  altliougii 

k  sandy  mould. 

It  Laramie  fork. 

0  miles  distant, 

[e  of  the  moun- 

lat  snowy  chain 

QCt  above  them. 

eared  for  a  mo- 

rouded  them  in 

!,  as  at  the  Red 

;k.    While  trav- 

irning  the  lofty 

louds  began  to 

advanced,  until 

biy  at  evening 

}  21  miles  from 

le  Platte,  where 

em  being  much 

t,  and  forming, 

evation  of  this 

2,800  feet  in  a 

the  Platte.    In 

''on  by  our  bar. 

we  first  came 
and  where  we 
'^as  mixed  with 
3r  the  animals. 
rers,  which  we 
ring  flax  made 
with  slender 
,  was  very  fre- 


1643.'] 


t'Al'T.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


97 


2, 


provisions  be- 
eral  days ;  but 
3  sleep  another 


night  without  snpjM'r,  Lnjtnniesse  had  the  good  forfinie  to  kill  a  fine  deer, 
which  ho  foinid  feeding  in  a  linllow  near  t)y  ;  .uid  as  the  rain  l)Ou;ui  to  fall, 
threatening  an  unpleasant  night,  we  hurried  to  secure  a  coml'ortable  camp 
in  the  timber. 

To-ni2;lit  the  camp  llres,  girdled  with  ajijiohts  of  fine  venison,  looked 
cheerful  ni  spite  of  the  stormy  weather. 

//////  !>. — On  account  of  the  low  stale  of  our  provisions  ami  the  scarcity 
of  game,  I  determined  to  vary  our  roun^,  and  proceed  several  camps  to  the 
eastwaril,  in  the  hope  of  falling  in  with  the  butfalo.  This  route  along  the 
dividing  grt)tuuls  between  tlie  South  fork  of  the  Platte  and  the  Arkansas, 
would  also  allbrd  some  additional  geouiaphical  information.  This  morning, 
therefore,  we  turned  to  tlie  eastward,  along  the  Ujiper  witers  of  the  stream 
on  which  we  had  encamped,  entering  a  country  of  picturescjue  and  varied 
.scenery ;  broken  into  rocky  hills  of  singular  shapes ;  little  valleys,  with 
]inre  crystal  water,  here  leaping'  swiftly  alon:,%  and  there  losing  itself  in  the 
sands;  grecsn  spots  of  luxuriant  grass,  llowers  of  all  colors,  and  tind)er  of 
ditferent  kind.s — every  thing  to  give  it  a  varied  beauty,  except  game.  To 
one  of  these  remarkably  shaped  hills,  having  on  the  simimit  a  circular 
Hat  rock  two  or  three  hundred  yards  in  circumrerence,  some  one  gave  the 
name  of  Poundcake,  which  it  has  been  pernntted  to  retain,  as  our  hungry 
people  seemed  to  think  it  a  very  agreeable  comparison.  In  the  afternoon 
a  bulfalo  bull  was  killed,  and  we  encamped  on  a  small  stream,  near  the 
road  which  runs  from  St.  Vrain's  fort  to  the  Arkansas. 

July  10, — Snow  fill  heavily  ou  the  mountains  diu'ing  the  night,  and 
Pike's  peak  this  morning  is  luminous  and  grand,  covered  from  the  sunmiit, 
as  low  down  as  we  can  see,  with  glittering  white.  Leaving  the  encamp- 
ment at  6  o'clock,  we  continued  our  eas  crly  course  over  a  rolling  country, 
near  to  the  high  ridges,  wliich  arc  generid'.y  rough  and  rocky,  with  a  coarse 
conglomerate  displayed  in  nia.v:ses.  and  covered  with  pines.  This  rock  is 
very  friable,  and  it  is  undoubtedly  from  its  deompositiou  that  the  prairies 
derive  their  sandy  and  gravelly  formation.  In  0  miles  we  crossed  a  head 
water  of  the  Kioway  river,  on  which  we  found  a  strong  fortand  cord/ that 
had  been  built  in  the  s|)ring,  and  halted  to  noon  on  the  prhicipal  branch  of 
the  river.  During  the  morning  our  route  led  over  a  dark  vegetable  mould, 
mixed  with  sand  and  gravel,  the  characteristic  plant  being  e.^parcette,  {ono- 
brychis  saliva.)  a  species  of  clover  which  is  much  used  in  certain  parts  of 
Germany  for  pasturage  of  stock — principally  hogs.  It  is  sown  on  rocky 
waste  ground,  which  would  otherwise  be  useless,  and  grows  very  luxu- 
riantly, requiring  only  a  renewal  of  the  seed  about  once  in  fifteen  years. 
Its  abundance  here  greatly  adds  to  the  pastoral  value  of  this  region.  A 
species  of  antennaria  in  llower  was  very  conmion  along  the  line  of  road, 
and  the  creeks  were  timbered  with  willow  and  pine.  We  encamped  on 
Bijou's  fork,  the  water  of  which,  unlike  the  clear  streams  we  had  previously 
crossed,  is  of  a  whitish  color,  and  the  soil  of  the  bottom  a  very  hard,  tough 
clay.  'I'here  was  a  prairie  dog  village  on  the  bottom,  and,  in  the  endeavor 
to  unearth  one  of  the  little  animals,  we  labored  ineffectually  in  the  tough 
clay  until  dark.  After  descending,  with  a  slight  incUnation,  until  it  had 
gone  the  depth  of  two  feet,  the  hole  suddenly  turned  at  a  sharp  angle  in 
another  direction  for  one  more  foot  in  depth,  when  it  again  turned,  taking 
an  ascending  direction  to  the  next  nearest  hole.  I  have  no  doubt  that  all 
their  little  habitations  communicate  with  each  other.    The  greater  part  of 


f^^- 


er" 


X. 


99 


f'APT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1813. 


r'. 


31^^ 


"  fl 


•'  m  •;' 


l)jc  people  were  sick  to-day,  and  I  was  inclined  to  attribiifc  their  indispo.l  i 
slMon  to  tli(j  ment  olthe  hull  which  had  l)t)uii  killed  the  previous  day. 

J(i/t/  W. — ThfTc  wore  uo  indications  of  huHalo  havini:  hren  icconlly  in 
the  tii'ii,'ld)Oiliooil:  anil,  unwillinu:  to  travel  farther  eastward,  I  ttuiied  this 
morning  to  the  southward,  u|)  the  valhsy  of  Hijoii.  Kspnrcetic  oeciirri'd 
universally,  ami  arnoncr  the  plants  on  the  river  I  noticed,  for  the  Urst  time 
duruig  this  jv)urney,  a  U'.w  small  bushes  of  the  dhsinlhe  of  llu;  voyag(Mirs, 
which  is  couuiionly  used  for  fire  wood,  [ortetnisia  Iridcutala. )  Yesterday 
and  to-day  the  road  has  hijcn  ornamented  with  the  showy  hlooni  of  a  beau- 
tiful////;/« ;/.s,  a  characteristic  in  many  partv  of  the  niomitaiu  region,  on 
which  were  generally  great  numbois  of  an  iispcl  witii  very  bright  colors, 
{litta  vcskotoria.) 

As  we  were  riding  quietly  along,  eagerly  searching  every  hollow  in 
search  of  game,  we  discovered,  at  a  little  distance  in  the  prairie,  a  largo 
grizzly  bear,  so  busily  engaged  in  digging  roots  that  he  did  not  perceive  us 
until  we  were  gallopin:r  down  a  little  hill  fit'ty  yards  from  him,  when  he 
charged  upon  us  with  such  suduen  energy,  that  several  of  us  came  near 
losing  our  saddles.  Being  wounded,  he  coumienced  retreating  to  a  rocky 
piney  ridge  near  by,  from  which  we  were  not  able  to  cut  him  off,  and  we 
entered  the  timber  with  him.  The  way  was  very  nuich  blocked  up  with 
fallen  timber;  and  we  kept  uj)  a  running  fight  tor  some  time,  animated  by 
the  bear  charging  among  the  horses.  He  diil  not  fall  imtil  after  he  had 
received  six  rifle  balls,  lie  was  miserably  poor,  and  added  nothing  to  our 
stock  of  provisions. 

We  followed  the  stream  to  its  head  in  a  broken  ridge,  which,  according 
to  the  barometer,  was  about  7,500  feet  above  the  sea.  This  is  a  piney  ele- 
vation, into  which  the  prairies  are  gathered,  and  from  which  the  waters 
How,  in  almost  every  direction,  to  the  Arkansas, Platte, and  Kansas  rivers; 
the  latter  stream  having  here  its  remotest  sources.  Although  somewhat 
rocky  and  broken,  and  covered  with  pines,  in  comparison  with  the  neigh- 
boring mountains,  it  scarcely  forms  an  interruption  to  the  great  prairie 
plains  which  sweep  up  to  their  bases. 

We  had  an  excellent  view  of  Pike's  peak  from  this  camp,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  40  miles.  This  mountain  barrier  presents  itself  to  travellers  on 
the  plains,  which  sweep  almost  directly  to  its  bases — an  immense  and  com- 
paratively vsmooth  and  grassy  prairie,  in  very  strong  contrast  with  the  black 
masses  of  timber,  and  the  glittering  snow  above  them.  With  occasional 
exceptions,  comparatively  so  very  small  as  not  to  require  mention,  these  f 
prairies  are  every  where  covered  with  a  close  and  vigorous  growth  of  a 
great  variety  of  grasses,  among  which  the  most  abundant  is  the  buflalo  grass, 
(sesleria  dactyloides.)  Between  the  Platte  and  Arkansas  rivers,  that  part  ' 
of  this  region  which  forms  the  basin  drained  by  the  waters  of  the  Kansas, 
"with  which  our  operations  made  us  more  particularly  acquainted,  is  based 
upon  a  formation  of  calcareous  rocks.  The  soil  of  all  this  country  is  ex- 
cellent, admirably  adapted  to  agricultural  purposes,  and  would  support  a 
large  agricultural  and  pastoral  population.  A  glance  at  the  map,  along 
our  several  lines  of  travel,  will  show  you  that  this  plain  is  watered 
by  many  streams.  Throughout  the  western  half  of  the  plain,  these  are 
shallow,  with  sandy  beds,  becoming  deeper  as  they  reach  the  richer 
lands  approaching  the  Missouri  river ;  they  generally  have  bottom  lands, 
bordered  by  bluffs  varying   from  50  to  500  feet  in  height.     In  all  this 


[1843.1    1843.] 


CAIT.  FRKMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


99 


'    I 


tholr  iiidispo. 
/ions  (lay. 
I't'M  rccoiitly  ill 
I,  I  tiinied  this 
cctfc  occurred 
r  \\\o.  first  time 
ili(!  voyagciirs, j 
/. )  Yostcrday 
oom  of  a  beau- 
a  ill  ivu;ion,  oil 

bright  colors, 

^ory  hollow  in 

rairi'!,  a  large 

not  purcoive  us 

him,  when  he 

us  came  near 

tini^  to  a  rocky 

til  oil',  and  we 

)clvud  lip  willi 

e,  animated  by 

I  after  he   had 

nothing  to  our 

licli,  according 
is  is  apiney  ele- 
icli  the  waters 
Kansas  rivers; 
iLch  somewhat 
itfi  the  neigh- 
gicat  prairie 

p,  at  the  dis- 

0  travellers  on 

icnse  and  com- 

with  the  black 

Vith  occasional 

Tiention,  these 

growth  of  a 

e  buflalo  grass, 

vers,  that  part 

of  the  Kansas, 

inted,  is  based 

ountry  is  ex- 

)uld  support  a 

le   map,  along 

in  is   watered 

lain,  these  are 

ch  the  richer 

bottom  lands, 

t.     In  all  this 


region  tho  timber  is  entirely  confined  to  the  streams.  In  tho  enstorn  half, 
where  tho  Soil  is  a  d«M'|i,  rirh,  vegr'talilf  moiiltl,  rittentivi!  of  rain  ntid  moist- 
ure, it  is  of  vigorous  growth,  and  of  many  flilfiMeiil  kinds ;  and  throughout 
the  western  half  it  consists  entirely  of  various  speri«!s  of  cotfonwood,  which 
deserves  to  bo  called  tho  ircjo  of  the  desert — growing  in  sandy  soils,  where 
no  other  tree!  will  grow  ;  pointing  out  tlM;  existeiiff-  of  water,  ami  furnishing 
tothe  traviilhu'  liici,  and  I'ood  for  his  animals.  Adil  tolliis,  thai  ihc  western 
border  of  tin;  plain  is  oeeiipied  by  the  Sioux,  Aiapaho,  and  (-heyenno  na- 
tions, and  the  Pawnees  and  other  half-civilizcMJ  tribes  in  its  eastern  limits, 
lor  whom  the  inierme(liat(!  country  is  a  war  ground,  you  will  have  a  toler- 
ably correct  idea  ol'  the  appearand;  and  condition  u'i  the  country.  De- 
'j  scending  a  somewhat  picciiJitousand  roeky  hill  side.'  iuongtbn  pines,  which 
rarely  appear  elsewhere  than  on  the  ridge,  we  encamped  at  its  foot,  where 
tiiere  were  seviual  springs,  which  you  will  find  laid  down  upon  tlie  map  a.« 
one  of  the  extreiiu!  somces  of  ib(5  Smoky  Hill  fork  of  the  Kansas.  Fr(Uii  this 
;ilace  the  view  tjxtendiul  over  the  Arlcaiisas  valley,  and  the  Spanish  peaks 

II  the  south  beyond.  As  the  grtjater  |)art  of  the  men  continued  sick,  I 
"iicampcd  here  for  the  day,  ami  ascertained  conclusively,  from  (!X|)eriment.s 

III  mysulf,  that  their  illness  was  caused  by  the  meat  of  tin;  luillalo  I.miII. 
v')n  the  summit  (>f  the  ri(lure,near  the  camp,  were  several  rock-lMult  Ibrt.s, 

which  in  front  were  very  dillicult  of  approach,  and  i:i  the  roar  were  pro- 
tected by  a  precipice  entirely  lieyond  tho  ntach  of  arilleball.  The  even- 
ing was  tolerably  clear,  with  a  temperature  ut  sunset  of  (),';\  Elevation  of 
the  camp  7,300  leet. 

Turning  tho  next  day  to  the  southwest,  we  reaclie  1,  in  the  course  of 
the  morning,  tho  wagon  road  to  the  settlements  on  the  Arkansas  river,  and 
encamped  in  the  afternoon  on  the  Fonluinv-<itti-})t>xiU  (or  Moiling  Spring) 
river,  where  it  was  fjO  feet  wide,  with  a  swift  cmreiit.  i  aiterwards  found 
that  the  spring  and  river  owe  their  names  to  the  bubbling  of  the  elferves- 
cing  gas  in  the  former,  and  not  to  the  temperature  of  the  water,  which  is 
cold.  During  the  morning,  a  tall  species  of  'j;Uia^  with  a  slender  white 
dower,  was  characteristic;  and,  in  the  latter  part  of  tli(!  day,  another  vari- 
ety of  esparcctte,  (wild  clover,)  having  the  flower  wliite,  was  equally  so. 
We  had  a  fine  sunset  of  golden  brown;  and,  in  the  evening,  a  very  bright 
moon,  with  the  near  mountains,  made  a  beautiful  scene.  Thermometer,  at 
sunset,  was  oy^,  and  our  elevation  al)Ove  the  sea  5,800  feet. 

July  13. — The  morning  was  clear,  with  a  northwesterly  breeze,  and  the 
thermometer  at  sunrise  at  46^.  There  were  no  clouds  along  the  moun- 
tains, and  the  morning  sun  showed  very  clearly  their  rugged  character. 

We  resumed  our  journey  very  early  down  the  river,  following  an  ex- 
tremely good  lodge  trail,  which  issues  by  the  head  of  this  stream  from  the 
bayou  Salade,  a  high  mountain  valley  behind  Pike's  peak,  'fhe  soil  along 
the  road  was  sandy  and  gravelly,  and  the  river  well  timbered.  We  halted 
to  noon  under  the  shade  of  some  fine  large  cotton  woods,  our  animals  lux- 
uriating on  rushes  {equisetuiii  hyemale,)  which,  along  this  river,  were  re- 
jnarkably  abundant.  A  variety  of  cactus  made  its  appearance,  and  among 
several  strange  plants  were  numerous  and  beautiful  clusters  of  a  plant 
resembling  mirahilis  jalapa,  with  a  handsome  convolvulus  I  had  not 
hitherto  seen,  {calystegia.)  In  the  afternoon  we  passed  near  the  encamp- 
ment of  a  hunter  named  Maurice,  who  had  been  out  into  the  plains  in  pur- 
sul:  of  buffalo  calves,  a  number  of  which  I  s:iw  among  some  domestic  cat- 


I 


\.^Ji^y 


J     fT>  "^^  T ' 


KM) 


i\rV    niKMoNPH  NAMIIAI'IVK 


'S' 


[tfl43. 

lln  Hour  Ins  Uxl^iv  Sln»rilv  iiHiMwanh.  ii  |i,iiiy  ol  inotiiiltiiiicprR  p;ilIopH 
up  It)  UN  litif-looKiiit^  ami  luinly  IIKmi.  ilrcNNnl  m  t^Uwv,  .iiiii  iiiniiiitr<l  oil 
^(in(|  fill  Ihunin;  allium;  llnrii  wi^ri»  h«»v«'ral  Coiiiu  rfinii  iiini,  u  pdrlioii  oC 
Wvt'lll''^  pailVi  wIloMI  I  liail  NMi'll  iIh'  \v\\  lirtoic.  jiikI  miIhms  w<mo  IIIOII 
lioiii  iIh'  wcsinn  Siahs. 

Cotilttiuiuij;  ilnwii  ilii*  lucr,  \vn  (•iirrinipitd  at  iinon  on  ilit>  1  illi  at  it.i 
niiMiili,  oil  iIh>  Arkansas  riv)<r.  A  ^llo^t  ilisiaia-o  aliov*' our  oncainium'nl, 
on  lln'  Icli  Itan'x  ol  lli<«  Aikaiisa.s,  is  a  /tnrhfo,  (as  ijin  Mi'Xicaiis  call  llii'ir 
nvili/i'd  liiiliaii  villai(i>.s,)  wlirrr  a  nninix  t  ol  imiiiiitaiiiois,  who  had  mar 
iii'd  Spanish  wnmi't.  ni  iho  valloy  ol  Taos,  had  rolli'iird  tov*'lh«>r,  and  od- 
ciipKal  ihcm.srlvi'.i  in  t'arinin^,  ruiryiiiK  «>iial  llw  ,s:im<>  imih*  u  (IcmiIidiv  hi* 
diaii  Iradr.  'riic\  woic  piinripidlv  Aini'in'aiis,  and  iHMicd  ns  wiili  all  iln;  r| 
iiido  hospiialiiy  thrii'  Mtiiaiion  adimilcd  ;  liiii  as  all  cumnM'K'ial  int<!ri'onr.s'>. 
w  ilh  N«"w  Mrxii'o  was  now  iiihMinpird,  in  ron.sf(|niii«('  ol'  Mcxiran  dr- 
n«M's  to  thai  t'lirci,  ilicro  was  noihin^'  lo  ho  had  in  iIh*  way  ol  provisions. 
Thrx-  had,  liow(!Vt>r,  a  l'in<>  stock  ol'  *'aiili>.  and  liirnisJK'd  ns  an  ahini(hiiict! 
ol'  «'Xi't'lltMil  milk.  I  JtMiiird  hcio  thai  Maxwtll,  in  rompaov  with  Iwu 
other  men.  had  staitid  lor  Taos  on  tlii>  inotnin^  of  iho  <iih.  hnl  tjiat  hi< 
would  prohahiy  tall  into  llu'  hands  ol  lh<>  I 'tali  Indiaiiv,  roinmoiiiy  calltMJ 
Ihc  S/xmis/i  Yh/iw.  As  Maxwoll  had  no  knovvl<>d;,'n  ol  thrir  hciiiif  in  th'- 
vicinitv  whtMi  he  cvosM'd  the  Arkansas,  his  clijoiii'  ol  escape  was  verv 
doiihirni  ;  hut  I  did  not  eiit*>rlani  niiu'li  appieiiension  lor  Ins  life,  havin.; 
jUri'at  oonfideiH'e  in  his  priidiMico  and  conraL^e.  I  was  Inrlher  inltoined  that 
there  had  heeii  a  popular  tnninit  ainoii|L'  the  yn//7*A;.v,  or  civili/ed  Indinn.i, 
nvsidinir  near  Taos,  a!»ainsi  the  *• /n/v'/^-/</';\v"  ol'  that  plaee,  in  which  they 
had  plundered  their  houses  and  ill  trealeil  iheir  lainilies.  Amon;^  thoMi 
wlios,'  pr(»perty  had  heen  ilestrt)yed,  was  ISIr.  IJeiinhieii,  ratlier-in-la\r  ol 
Miixwi'll,  Iroin  whom  I  had  expected  to  ohiain  supplies,  and  who  had 
ho(Mi  ohli<;od  to  make  his  escape  to  Santa  Fe. 

13y  this  position  ol'  all'air.s,  our  expectation  of  ohiaimni?  supplies  from 
Taos  was  cut  oil'.  I  had  Iumo  the  satisfaction  to  meet  our  yood  huftalo 
liiuiler  of  liSl'J,  Christopher  Carson,  whose  services  I  considerod  my.seU 
forluiiato  to  secure  auain  ;  and  as  a  reinl'orcenient  of  mules  was  ahsolutoly  i 
necessary,  I  despatched  him  iminediattily,  with  an  aceonnt  of  our  iiccessi-  ' 
tics,  10  .Mr.  Charles  Hoiil,  whose;  principal  j)ost  is  on  tlu;  Arkansas  river, 
about  7.')  miles  helow  Fonfaine-t/uihoKt'/.  lie  was  directed  lo  proceed 
Iroiu  thai  j)ost  by  the  nearest  route  across  tlu;  country,  ami  in(;et  me  with 
wliat  aiiiinals  ho  should  be  able  to  obtain  al  St.  \' rain's  fort.  I  a Uo  ad- 
mitted into  the  parly  Charles  Towns — a  native  of  Si.  Louis,  a  serviceable 
man,  with  many  of  the  qualities  of  a  good  voyatjeur.  According  to  our  ob- 
servations, the  latitude  of  the  mouth  o(  the  river  is  .'38'^  15'  23"-,  its  longi- 
tude 104''  58'  30";  and  its  elevation  above  the  sea  -1,880  feet. 

On  the  morning  of  the  l(illi,  the  time  lor  Maxwell's  arrival  having  ex- 
pired, we  resumed  our  journey,  leaving  for  him  a  note,  in  which  it  was 
stated  tlinl  I  would  wait  for  him  at  St.  Vrain's  fort  until  the  morning  of  the 
2()th,  in  the  event  that  he  should  succeed  in  his  commission.  Our  direction 
was  up  the  Boiling  Spring  river,  it  being  my  intention  to  visit  the  celebrated 
springs  from  which  the  river  takes  its  name,  and  which  are  on  its  upper 
waters,  at  the  fool  of  Pike's  peak.  Our  animals  fared  well  while  we  were 
on  this  stream,  there  being  every  where  a  great  abundance  of  prele.  Ipo- 
viea  hptophylla,  in  bloom,  was  a  characteristic  plant  along  the  river,  gen- 


1843.1 


«  Ai'i    I'HKMo.NTM  NMiinrivn. 


loi 


I'ors  ffrillopofi 
I  inniiiitnl  on 
I,  II  |i(iil|(>h  ol 
tH  worn  tiujii 

III*   I  nil  at  its 

iMir,illl|>IIH'l|t, 

runs  call  tin'ir 
u'lio  liiul  mar 
i'IIh'I",  ami  or 
(Icsiillorv  lil- 
ts Willi  nil  llii; 
lal  iiitori'oiirsM 

McXH'IlM  (!<'- 

of  provisions. 

an  iiliiindanc)- 

uiy   Willi  two 

,  bill  tlitil  li)< 

iiinoiily  <'{ill)!<l 

r  Ix'in^  in  Jli<' 

ipd   was  very 

IS  lilV.  Iiavin;,' 

inlorin*'«l  that 

ili/,(j(l  Indian.-., 

in  which  llnv/ 

Anion:?  those 

Ihcr-iti-law  ol 

Hill  who   hiifl 

supplies  from 
^ood   hnfl'iilo 

idcrod  inysolf 
IS  absolutely 
our  nccesKi- 
<ansus  river, 

d  to  proceed 
(!et  me  with 
I  aloo  ad- 
u  serviceable 
ng  to  our  ob- 
;}";  its  longi- 

al  having  ex- 
rtrhich  it  was 
lorning  of  the 
Our  direction 
lie  celebrated 

on  Its  upper 
hile  we  were 

prele.  Ipo- 
le  river,  gen- 


\ 


nrally  in  Inrp"  binielieH,  wnh  lw«»  to  five  ll»iw«'rs  on  eiicli,     fliMitiifiil  clnv- 
tors  ol   ill'"  plant   ri"*einlilni ,/   ;;i /»•/////// v  julitfin   'vcrf   nnnicron  ;,  und  ^/»/ 
cyrrfiiTii  /ffiii/n/ft   was  a  characN'ri'.lir  oi   ili«;  hoilonr.       Cnnanis  iicurly 
ripo  wen*  alinndaiii,  and  anionu;  the  Nlirubs  which  covered  the  boittMii  was 
Rvery  Inxnnani  ^lowili  ui  chciiopodiaccons  Nhrnlis,  four  to  ^ix  feel  hmh. 

(In  the  afti'iiioon  o|   tli'>   I  7ih  we  <'iil»'ii'd  ainoii^  ihc  lirol<cn  ridt,'cs  at  the 
fool  of  the  inoinitain;,  wlirri-  flic   river   made  '.cvcial  forks.      Leaving  the 
ramp  to  follow  slowlv,  I  lodoalic.ul  ill  iIm' iificrnoon  in  search  o(  ||ic  spriiiKs. 
Ill  the  ineaii  time,  tin-  clond'-^,  which  hail  been  f  iiheird  all  the  afternoon  ovrr 
ilie  moiinlains,  bei.Min  lo  roll  down  ile-ir  -ideN ;  ;nid  a  '.loi  in  so  vioh-nt  burst, 
iipon  inc,  thiit.  It  appeared    I    h  id  entered    the    .lorehoiise   o|   th<.   thunder 
storms.      I  cotilnined,  however,  to  ride  mIoiiv  up  the  river  until  abinil  sini.';ei, 
and  was  bei^tnnini;  to  be  doubtful  of  (itidini,'   the  sprini^'s   br-fore   the    next 
(lay.  when  I  came  sii«ldeiily  upon  a  lart'e  smooth   rock  abioit  twenty  yards 
ui  diameter,  where  the  wahr  from  sever, il  Mprin'.'s  w  c;  biibblio''  and  boilinLi; 
ii|i  III  the  midst  f»f  a  white  mcritslalion  with  which  it  had  covered  a  portion 
III  the  rock.      As  Ibis  did  not  (  orrespond  with  a  description  '/iveii  me  by  tlie 
liiitileis,  I  did  not  slop  to  lasie  the  water,  but,  disnioiniiin:',  wall:ed  a  little 
way  up  llie  river,  and,  passin-.'  fbroiiLdi  a  narrow  tliici.et  of  sbtuhbery  bor- 
dering the  .slieani,  stepped  dueclly   llpHli    a    liii^e  white    rork,  ;it  iIm;  loot  ol 
which  the  rivc^r,  already  become  a  torrent,  foame»l  aloni?,  br<»ken  by  a  small 
l>ill.      A  <leer  which  bad  been   drinking  at  the  spriiis/   was  startled  by  my 
a|)proa('li,  and,  spriii'j;iii!,'  across  the   river,  bounded   off  up   tlic    inonntnin. 
Ill  the  upper  pail  (d  ilie  roel;.  wlii'li  Ii;hI  ap|»areiiily  been  formed  by  depo- 
sition, was  a  lir'autiful  white  basin,  overhiini!;  by  r-iirrant  bushes,  in  wliieh 
the  cold  eh^ar  wah-r  bubbled  up,  kept  in  c(»iistant    motion  by  ihe.  eseapintj 
i^'fts,  anil  overllowini^  llie   rock,  which   ii   had  almost  emirely  covererl  with 
;i  stuoolh  (Miisl  of  elisicniiii,'   while.      I   had  all  day   relVainefl   from  drink- 
ing, reservinu^  myself  for  the  sprint^;  and  as  I  could  not  well  be  more  wet 
than  till'  rain  bad  i.lready   made  nc,   I    l,iy  down  by  i:ie  sir|e  of  the  basin, 
and  drank  heartily  ol'  the  deliidilfiil  water.     Th'!  sprill^  is  siiii;i|{;d  imme- 
diately at  the  foot  of  lofty  mountains,  beautifully   timbered,    which   sweep 
cloMily   round,  sliiilfiuLj;  up  tin;   little  valley   in  a.  kind  of  cove.     As  it  was 
beginning  to  grow  dark,  I  rode  ipiickly  down  the  river,  on  which  I  found 
the  eam|>  a  few  miles  ImsIow. 

The  morning  of  till!  isih  was  beautiful  and  clear,  and,  all  the  [jeopbj 
])cing  anxious  to  drink  of  these  famous  waters,  we  eiicaiu[<eii  inimediutely 
at  the  springs,  and  spent  there  a  very  pleasant  day.  On  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river  is  another  locality  of  springs,  which  ;ire  entirely  of  the  same 
nature.  The  water  liasa  vi^ry  agreeable  taste,  wliicli  Mr.  Preuss  found  very 
much  to  resemble  that  of  the  famous  Suiter  springs  in  the  grand  duchy  of 
Nassau,  a  country  famous  for  wine  and  mineral  waters;  and  it  i.s  almost 
entirely  of  the  same  character,  though  still  more  agreeable  than  that  of  the 
famous  Hear  spritigs,  near  Hear  river  of  the  Great  Salt  lake.  The  follow- 
ing is  an  analysis  of  an  incrustation  witii  which  the  water  had  covered  a 
piece  of  wood  lying  on  the  rock  : 


Carbonate  of  lime 
Carbonate  of  magnesia 
Sulphate  of  lime  i 

Chloride  of  calcium      I- 
Chloride  of  magni.isia  ) 


02.25 
1.21 

.23 


/i 


%^ 


lOi 


(APT    fMtKM«).NT>  NAUIlAriM: 


[1843. 


i^j  if* 


Silini 

Vitmi'laM't  iitiitiiM  • 

MdiNiiirc  and  ii).«i> 


-«^ 


lOU.IM) 


oi  f^f 


Al  n  o'clock,  will  II  lli<!  lcin|*«'raimo  of  lliu  air  was  73'^,  llmt  oi  rpf 
walcr  III  iliis  was  (»(),.•>  ;  aixl  thai  oi'  llio  ii|>|ifr  >|»riiiu,  which  issued  liotTi 
thii  llat  rock,  iiior>'  ••\;)i».Md  lo  Iht;  .M^l,wa^  i»!»  .  AtMiiisri,  when  the  Itih- 
pciatiirc  ol  dh'  air  was  <»(>  ,  diiil  ol  thu  lower  .s|iriii^.s  was  r>^  ,  and  thai  t>i 
lh<'  upper  HI''. 

•//////  Ifi.  -  A  hi'Miitiriil  and  clear  luorniiii;,  with  a  ^li^llt  hrcczo  from  tlie 
northwest;  tilt'  tf'iiipiTatinc  ol'  air  at  miiiiim'  hniiy  '>7..'>'.  At  this  titn*' 
the  iciiipt  raiuic  of  the  lower  .spring  wus  AT.h  ,  and  (hnl  ol  the  iippci 
5\.:i'\ 

The  trees  in  the  n'M:,'ld»orhood  were  hirch,  willow,  piiio,  und  an  oak  re- 
sotnhliiiL'  i/mrniy  iiUni.  In  the  .shrnhhery  aloii;,'  the  river  are  currant  liushe>. 
(ri/xw,)  ol  which  the  Iriiit  has  a  .sinuiilar  pincy  llavor ;  and  on  the  nioiintaii. 
.sicU;,  in  a  red  i;ravelly  soil,  is  u  roniarkahle  conileroiis  tree,  (p(!rli)*,<s  an 
ithir.s,)  haviii'T  the  leaves  siiiLriilary  loni,',  hroad,  and  Ncaltored,  with  hiish<  ^ 
ol'  y/ii):i ,1  (i)i;rfnli(i.  Hy  our  o!)>ervation.s,  th  >  place  is  »»,;i/)()  I't'Oi  above 
llic  sea.  III  lalitiide  US'  .^'j    10  ',  and  loiii,'ilude.  H).')    „';>'   15". 

KcMuniiig  our  journey  on  this  inorniim,  wedtiscciided  ihe  rivc'r,  in  ordoi 
to  reach  the  niouili  oi  iI:m  oo-ilcru  link,  which  I  proposed  to  ascend.  The 
left  hank  of  the  rive;-  here  is  very  much  hrokeii.  There!  is  a  haiidsoine 
little  l)oftoni  oil  the  li^hl,  .'uul  hoth  hank's  arc  cxceiMJiii^ly  |)ictunis(pi(! — 
strata  o(  red  rock,  in  nearly  perpendicular  walls,  crossing  the  valley  from 
north  to  south.  Ahoiit  tliret;  miles  helow  thes|)rinij;s,  on  the  right  banl<  ol 
the  river,  is  a  iic;irly  perpendicular  liinestone  rock,  pr(!sonliiig  a  nnil'orinly 
unbiviUeii  surlace,  twenty  to  forty  r(!el  Jiii;li,(:oiilaiiiiii:;  vi'iy  great  nunibt'r> 
of  a  large  univalve  shell,  which  appears  to  h(;loiig  to  the  \rrM\\i>  i)ioce.r<ifnus. 

In  contact  with  this,  to  llu^  westward,  wa.s  another  straluiu  of  limestone, 
conta.  ling  fossil  shells  ol  a  diU'iireiil  character;  and  still  higher  uji  on  the 
stream  were  parallel  strata,  consisting  of  a  compact  sonitiwhat  crystalline 
limestone,  and  argillaceous  hituminons  liinestone  in  thin  layers.  During 
the  morning,  wo  travelled  up  the  eastern  fork  of  the  Fonidine-f/ui-houif 
river,  our  road  i)cint;  roughened  by  fre(pienl  deep  gullies  timbered  with 
pine,  and  haltt'd  to  noon  on  a  small  biaiich  of  this  sircam,  timbered  prin- 
cipally with  the  iiiirrow-leaved  coltonwood,  (/^ry/y/z/j/.v  d/iij^H.sliJ'olia,)  called 
by  the  Canadians  /m/v/  a/tit'n'.  On  a  hill,  near  by,  were  two  remarkable 
columns  of  a  grayish-white  conglomerate  rock,  one  of  whicii  was  about 
twenty  feet  high,  and  two  feel  in  diameter.  They  are  surmounted  l)y  slabs 
of  a  dark  ferruginous  conglomerate,  forming  black  caps,  and  adding  very 
much  to  their  coliunnar  elfect  at  a  distance.  This  rock  is  very  destructible 
by  the  action  of  the  weather,  and  the  hill,  of  which  they  formerly  consti- 
tuted r.  part,  is  entirely  abraded. 

A  shaft  of  the  gun  carriage  was  broken  in  the  afternoon  ;  and  we  made 
an  early  halt,  the  stream  being  from  twelve  to  twenty  feet  wide,  with  clear 
water.  As  usual,  the  clouds  had  gathered  to  a  storm  over  the  mountains, 
and  we  had  a  showery  evening.  At  sunset  the  thermometer  stood  at  (i2°, 
and  our  elevation  above  the  sea  was  G,530  feet. 


' 


(II 

(M" 

ra 

til 
III 

I" 
foi 

ell 

till 

cv 

re( 

till 
till 
I  I 
lie; 

cif 

CGI 

of 
bn 
Tl 
wr 


rol 

tiK 

ex 

tJR 

jea 
col 
vc: 
no 
in§ 
rej 
bl> 


K.'#.^..A 


[1813.  I   iHii.] 


«'.\nv   rifnMONTH  NAHIUTIVn. 


103 


.♦      1.50 

.Jf) 

-      -I.rjl 

KJd.oO 

'.".  -  -  ... 

^  thm  oi 

tho. 

'h  isMinl  liofn 

^vIkmi  th)'  1 

•'Ill* 

h  ,  aiiii  ill 

It  1)1 

vA'//.o  iVoni 

III.' 

At  (Ins 

tllllf 

•  il'  ihr    ll[)|»i'i 

Liid  an  o.'iU  K'- 
iirianl  liiisli»!>, 
I  (Ik-  iiiDiiiit.iii. 

!,  i|M'lll!l|.»    ai; 

I,  Willi  hiisllt  ^ 
150  ll'Oi  al)OV<' 

river,  ill  or(l»,'i 

ascend,     'i'lir 

i  a  liandsoiu'' 

))i(:lnros(|ii(!  — 

\r  valley  from 

ri^'ht  l);-n\'  ul 

y;  a  unilbriuly 

,M(Mt  nuniber> 

sinocenu/ius. 

I  of  liinesloiit' . 

KM   np  on  th*- 

ai  crystalliiM- 

't.-rs.     l)urini> 

ine-f/ui-houif 

iinbured  with 

inhered  priii- 

ijolia,)  calle<l 

o  remarkable 

cli  was  about. 

nted  by  slabs 

adding  very 

y  destructible 

rnierly  consti- 

and  wo  made 
de,  with  clear 
ic  mountains, 
stood  at  62°, 


.//////  80. — Tills  iiioriiiiii»  fill  wi»  u«MMT!»lly  fuimd  the  inoniinj;**  tinder 
ih^M'  nioiiMiaiiis)  \va<  very  <*lear  iiid  iMMiitilnh  and  tin-  air  ••mil  and  ph-a.-s. 

mil,  vviih  tin- tliermoint'ti  i- at  IJ  .     NVe itinin-d  oiiniiairli  up  (he  .sinain, 

alonu:  a  ^rl<(•n  slopiiit^  hottom,  between  piin-  lull «  on  ilin  one  hand,  ntid  the 
main  Ml;t«-I,  lulls  on  ilir  nih»'r,  towards  th'-  ridi;e  which  si-paiates  the  wator.s 
of  the  Plain-  lioni  tliose  n|  thf  .\rk.i(is.is  As  w«' appro;u-lnul  the  dividint; 
iKl'jr,  tilt'  wholi-  valley  was  radiant  willi  ilowt-r.-. ;  hliir,  yrllow,  pniU,  wlnu-, 
Bcarl<-t,  and  piirph-,  vietl  with  each  other  in  splendor.  Kspan-riiu  wa«  one 
m  th(-  highly  chararn-ristii'  plants,  and  a  hri.;dii-louKiii:<  IhtWi'V  {ifai/lnrJia 
ttrinlnhi)  was  vrry  ln'ipiem  ;  hut  ihf  inosf  .ahiiiidaiit  plant  alidc^  oiir  road 
today  WHS  If  rrtnn'uh'  viuculntinn,  which  n  the  t  hariictt-.i.slic  plaiil  on  tint, 
portion  of  the  dividin:.^  i^roiinds.  Cro.ssiiti^  tu  the  watur.s  of  the  I'liitte,  fields 
of  blue  llax  addr-d  to  the  in.iirniCicriKie  of  ihi^  iiKHintaiii  garden;  tlii.s  wa.s 
orrasioinlly  four  l""-i'f  in  hf-iirhl,  which  w.is  a  liixiiri.iiice  «ii'  ^rowth  tli;il  I 
rarely  saw  ihis  almost  inii\crsal  plant  ailaiii  throii^hoiii  the  juniiiey.  (-'on- 
tiiiumv^  down  a  hraiirli  of  the  IMalte,  anionuf  hiidi  and  very  ^tecp  tin-bercrl 
liill.s,  covered  with  fragments  of  rock,  toward.s  evi'iiini,'  we  issued  fri/ui  the 
liitiey  rc.'ion,  and  ni;ide  a  l;ite  eiic;ini|iiMi'iit  near  l*oiiiidcake  rock,  on  that 
(ork  of  iIk'  river  whi(  h  we  had  ascended  on  the  8lh  (d'  .Inly.  Oiir  anunals 
enjoyed  the  ahniidant  ru.sln's  this  eve-ninj?,  as  tin;  llii!s  were  so  h.id  amoiu 
the  pines  that  they  had  been  much  hara.ssed.  A  deer  was  killed  here  tins 
evenini^';  and  a-.,'ain  the  evenins^  was  ov<!rca>.t,and  a  collection  of  brilliant 
red  clouds  in  iIk;  west  was  loll,  wed  by  the  customary  s(|uall  of  rain. 

Jlchillen  milh'Jhlimn  (milloii;  was  amoiii' the  characterisiic  plants  of 
thcj  river  bi)ttoms  to-day.  This  was  one  of  the  most  common  plants  during 
the  whole  of  our  joiirtiey,  ot-ciu' inu;  in  almost  tivery  v.iriety  (»f  situation. 
I  noticed  it  on  the  lowlands  of  the  rivers,  near  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  and 
near  to  thf!  snow  ainoti^  tin;  inoiiiitains  of  the  Sierra  A'rvtu/o. 

DuriiiL!;  this  excursion,  we  had  surveyed  to  its  head  one  of  tlio  two  prin- 
cipal branches  of  the  upfier  Arkansas,  75  miles  in  length,  aiirl  entirely 
completed  our  survcsy  of  the  South  fork  of  the;  Platte,  to  the  extreme  sou.  :es 
of  that  portion  of  the  river  which  belongs  to  the  plains,  and  heads  in  the 
broken  hills  of  the  Arkansas  (Jividing  ridge,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains. 
That  j)ortion  of  its  waters  which  were  collected  among  t'lese  mountains,  it 
was  hop(!d  to  ex[)lore  on  our  homeward  voyage. 

Reaching  St.  Vrain's  fort  on  the  morning  of  the  2.3d,  we  found  Mr.  Kitz- 
patrick  and  his  jiarty  in  good  order  and  excellent  health,  and  my  true  and 
reliable  friend,  Kit  Carson,  who  had  brought  with  him  leu  good  mules,  with 
the  necessary  pa'.;k  saddles.  Mr.  Kiizpatrick,  who  had  often  endured  every 
extremity  of  wantdiiring  the  course  of  his  mountain  life,  and  knew  well 
the  value  of  provisions  in  this  country,  had  watched  over  our  slock  witli 
jealous  vigilance,  and  there  was  ati  abundance  of  Hour,  rice,  sugar,  and 
cofl'ee,  in  the  camp  ;  and  again  wi;  fared  luxuriously.  Meat  was,  however, 
very  scarce  ;  and  two  very  small  pigs,  which  wo  obtained  at  the  fort,  did 
not  go  far  among  forty  men.  Mr.  Fitzpalrick  had  been  here  a  week,  dur- 
ing which  time  his  men  had  been  occupied  in  refitting  the  camp  ;  and  the 
repose  had  been  very  beneficial  to  his  animals,  which  were  now  in  tolera- 
bly good  condition. 

I  had  been  able  to  obtain  no  certain  information  in  regard  to  the  charac- 
ter of  the  passes  in  this  portion  of  the  Rocky  mountain  range,  which  had 
always  been  represented  as  impracticable  for  carriages,  but  the  exploration 
of  which  was  incidentally  contemplated  by  my  instructions,  with  the  view 


'.4 


'v   •  • 


mii^^ 


104 


CAl'T.   I'KKMONT'iS  NAKUATIVE. 


[1843.  ■  16 


of  fiiuling  some  convnnicnt  |ioiiit  of  puj^sjigo  for  tlio  road  of  emigration, 
which  would  (>ii;ihle  it  to  r(!ach,  on  ;i  more  dinict  hue,  the  usual  ford  o|' 
the  Oroat  ('olonido — a  place  coiisidt.'red  as  determined  by  the  nature  of  the 
country  heyond  that  river.  It  is  siiii;ular  that,  iinmcdiafely  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountains,  I  coiiid  fmd  no  one  suOicienlly  acquainted  witli  them  to 
guide  us  to  the  plains  at  flieir  westorn  base  ;  hut  the  race  of  trappers,  who 
formerly  lived  in  their  recesses,  has  aUnost  entirely  disappeared — dwindled 
to  a  few  scattered  individuals — sonu;  one  or  two  of  whom  arc  regularly 
killed  in  the  cour.se  of  each  year  hy  the  Indiiuis.  V'ou  will  remember  tiiat, 
in  the  previous  year,  I  hrcui^hf  with  me  to  their  village  near  this  post, and 
hospitably  treated  on  iIk;  way,ijev(,'ral  CMieyeuni!  Indians,  whom  I  had  met 
on  the  Lower  Platte.  Slioriiy  after  ihi'ir  arrival  here,  these  were  out  with 
a  party  of  Indians,  (themselves  the  principal  men,)  which  discovered  a  lew 
trappers  in  the  neighboring  mountains,  whom  they  innnediately  murdeied, 
although  one  of  them  had  been  nearly  thirty  years  in  the  country,  and  was 
perfectly  well  known,  as  he  had  grown  gray  an)ong  them. 

Through  this  portion  of  the  mountains,  also,  are  the  customary  roads  ol' 
the  war  parties  going  out  against  the  Utah  and  Shoshonee  Indians;  and 
occasionally  parties  from  the  Crow  nation  make  their  way  down  to  the 
southward  along  this  chain,  in  the  expectation  of  surprising  some  strag- 
gling lodges  of  their  enemies.  Shortly  before  our  arrival,  one  of  their  par- 
ties had  attacked  an  Arapalio  village  in  the  vicinity,  which  they  had  found 
unexpectedly  strong;  and  their  assault  was  turned  into  a  rapid  flight  and 
a  hot  pursuit,  in  which  they  had  been  compelled  to  abandon  the  animals 
they  had  rode,  and  escape  on  their  war  horses. 

Into  this  uncertain  and  dangerous  region,  small  parties  of  three  or  four 
trappers,  who  now  could  collect  together, rarely  ventured;  and  consequently 
it  was  seldom  visited  and  little  known.  Having  determined  to  try  the 
passage  by  a  pass  through  a  spur  of  the  mountains  made  by  the  Cdche-d- 
la-Pottdre.  river,  which  rises  in  the  high  bed  of  mountains  around  Long's 
peak,  I  thought  it  advisable  to  avoid  any  encumbrance  which  would  oc- 
casion detention,  and  accordingly  '  gain  separated  the  party  into  two  divi- 
sions— one  of  which,  under  the  command  of  Mr,  Filzpatrick,  was  directed 
to  cross  the  plains  to  the  mouth  of  Laramie  river,  and,  continuing  thence 
its  route  along  the  usual  emigrant  road,  meet  me  at  Fort  Hall,  a  post  be- 
longing to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  situated  on  Snake  river,  as  it  is 
commonly  called  in  the  Oregon  Territory,  although  better  known  to  us  as 
Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia.  The  latter  name  is  there  restricted  to  one 
of  the  upper  forks  of  the  river. 

Our  Delaware  Indians  having  determined  to  return  to  their  homes,  it  be- 
came necessary  to  provide  this  party  with  a  good  hunter;  and  I  accordingly 
engaged  in  that  capacity  Alexander  Godey,  a  young  man  about  25  years 
of  age,  who  had  been  in  this  country  six  or  seven  years,  all  of  which  time 
had  been  actively  employed  in  hunting  for  the  support  of  the  posts,  or  in 
solitary  trading  expeditions  among  the  Indians.  In  courage  and  profes- 
sional skill  he  was  a  Ivirmidable  rival  to  Carson,  and  constantly  afterwards 
■was  among  the  best  and  most  efficient  of  the  party,  and  in  difficult  situa- 
tions was  of  incalculable  value.  Hiram  Powers,  one  of  the  men  belonging 
to  Mr.  Fitzpatrick's  party,  was  discharged  at  this  place. 

A  French  engage,  at  Lupton's  fort,  had  been  shot  in  the  back  on  the  4th 
of  July,  and  died  during  our  absence  to  the  Arkansas.  The  wife  of  the 
murdered  man,  an  Indian  woman  of  the  Snake  nation,  desirous,  hke  Naomi 


by 
;aloi 

;d0t( 

i.  , 

cha 
ithe 
iiii  1 
I  mo  I 

I  0 
fide 

the 

belti 

A 

repc 

the 

peri 

;  rain 
enci 
dist 

:  T 
plai 

;  tere 
ther 

;  plac 

'  mac 
■ ':  live 
;  cult 

•'  clos 

|;  ant] 

\i  six 

fe    V 

;:  or  r 


(APT.   IRHMONT'H  NARRA'l'IVH. 


105 


of  emigration, 
Jisual  ford  of 
e  nature  of  the 
at  the  foot  of 
witli  tlieni  to 
fra|)|)ers,  who 
'cd — dwindled 
arc  rognlarly 
einemberlliat, 
•  llii.s  post,  and 
hotn  I  liadniet 
wore  out  witli 
SCO ve red  a  few 
lei  y  murdered, 
inilry,  and  was 

imary  roads  of 
Indians ;  and 
down  to  the 
g  some  strag- 
iie  of  tlieir  par- 
,liey  had  found 
ipid  Ihglit  and 
[1  llie  animals 

tinec  or  four 
1  consequently 
led  to  try  the 

the  Cdche-d- 
round  Long's 
eh  would  oc- 
into  two  divi- 
:,  was  directed 
inning  thence 
all,  a  post  be- 

river,  as  it  is 
lowii  to  us  as 

ricted  to  one 

homes,  it  be- 
I  accordingly 
out  25  years 
of  which  time 
6  posts,  or  in 
J  and  profes- 
ly  afterwards 
ifRcult  situa- 
len  belonging 

ck  on  the  4th 
wife  of  the 
s,  Uke  Naomi 


J 


of  old,  to  return  to  her  people,  requested  and  obtained  pernnssion  to  travel 
with  my  party  to  tlio  neighborhood  of  llep.r  river,  where  she  expected  to 
jfBcet  with  some  of  their  villages.  Happier  th  .n  tlie  Jewish  widow,  she 
carried  witli  her  two  children,  pretty  laiie  half-breeds,  who  addctd  much  to 
the  liveliness  of  the  camp.  Her  baggage  was  carried  on  five  or  six  pack 
horses;  and  I  gave  her  a  small  tent, ibr  which  I  no  longer  hud  any  use,  uh 
I  had  procured  a  lodge  at  the  fort. 

Fo'"  my  own  party  I  selected  the  following  men,  a  number  of  whom  old 
associations  reiKJered  agreeable  to  me: 

Charles  Prouss,  Christopher  Carson,  IJasil  Lajcuuesse,  Francois  liadcaii, 
J.  B,  Bernier,  Louis  Menard,  Kaphael  Troue,  Jacob  Dodson,  Louis  Zindel, 
Henry  Lee,  J.  U.  Derosiur,  Francois  Lajeunessc;,  and  Auguste  Vasquez. 

By  observation,  the  latitude  ol  the  post  is  40'^  !(>'  33",  and  its  longitude 

i  ;uj"  13'  23",  depending,  with  all  the  other  longitudes  along  this  portion  of 

hue  line,  upon  a  subsequent  occultation  of  September  13,  1843,  to  which 

I  hey  are  referred  by  the  chronometer.     Its  distance  from  Kansas  landing, 

iby  the  road  wo  travelled,  (which,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  very  winding 

lalong  the  lower  Kansas  river,)  \vas  750  miles.  The  rate  of  the  chronometer, 

(Icteriniiied  by  observations  at  this  place  for  the  interval  of  our  absence, 

during  thismonth,  was33.72",  which  you  will  hereafter  sec  did  not  sensibly 

change  during  the  ensuing  month,  and  remained  ne;irly  constant  during 

the  remainder  of  our  journey  across  the  continent.    This  was  the  rate  used 

in  referring  to  St.  Vrain's  fort,  the  longitude  between  that  jilace  and  the 

mouth  of  the  Foiiiuiiief/ui-iwnil. 

Our  various  barometrical  observations,  which  are  better  worthy  of  con- 
fidence than  the  isolated  deferniinatiou  of  1S42,  give,  for  the  elevation  of 
:  the  fort  above  the  sea,  4,930  ft.-et.     The  barometer  here  used  was  also  a 

etter  one,  and  less  liable  to  derangement. 
I  At  the  end  of  two  days,  which  was  allowed  to  my  animals  for  necessary 
repose,  all  the  arrangements  had  bee'i  completed,  and  on  the  afternoon  of 
the  26th  we  resumed  our  respective  routes.  Some  little  trouble  was  ex- 
perienced in  crossing  the  Platte,  the  waters  of  which  were  still  kept  up  by 
rains  and  melting  snow  ;  and  having  travelled  only  about  four  miles,  we 
encamped  in  the  evening  on  Thompson's  creek,  where  we  were  very  much 
disturbed  by  musquitoes. 

The  following  days  we  continued  our  march  westward  over  comparative 
plains,  and,  fording  the  Ctiche-d-la-Poudre  on  the  morning  of  the2Sth,  en- 
tered the  Black  hills,  and  nooned  on  this  stream  in  the  mountains  beyond 
iihem.     Passing  over  a  fine  large  bottom  in  the  afternoon,  we  reached  a 
; place  where  the  river  was  shut  up  in  the  hills;  and,  ascending  a  ravine, 
;made  a  laborious  and  very  difficult  passage  around  by  a  gap,  striking  the 
driver  again  about  dusk.     A.  littie  labor,  however,  would  remove  this  ditfi- 
culty,  and  render  the  road  to  this  point  a  very  excellent  one.     The  evening 
closed  in  dark  with  rain,  and  the  mountains  looked  gloomy. 

Jult/  29. — Leaving  our  encampment  about  7  in  the  morning,  we  travelled 
mtil  3  in  the  afternoon  along  tlie  river,  which,  for  this  distance  of  about 
ix  miles,  runs  directly  through  a  spur  of  the  main  mountains. 
We  were  compelled  by  the  nature  of  the  ground  to  cross  the  river  eight 
r  nine  times,  at  difficult,  deep,  and  rocky  fords,  the  stream  running  with 
leat  force,  swollen  by  the  rains — a  true  mountain  torrent,  only  forty  or 
fty  feet  wide.  It  was  a  mountain  valley  of  the  narrowest  kind — almost 
chasm;  and  the  scenery  very  v/ild  and  beautiful.   Towering  mountains  rose 


■v--!. 


'-•..» 


■  ■  P 


106 


CAPT.   FUKMON'rs  NAI!K\TI\  H. 


'H'' 


;:■  ,♦«':.;;;■, 


U} 


round  al>c)tU;  tlioir  sidcissomcMtncs  dark  with  lorcsts  of  pine,  and  sometim 
with  lolly  |)r(H'i|)ic»vs,  washed  hy  iho  rivo.r;  while  hnlow,  as  if  they  indcui 
iiifiod  iIkmmsoIvos  in  luxiirianix'  for  the  scjaniy  space,  the  green  river  hot 
toni  was  covered  with  a  wilderness  of  Mowers,  their  tall  spikes  sornetimpi 
rising  above  our  heads  as  we  rode  among  tliein.  A  profusion  of  hlossoiiii 
on  a  while  (lowering  \\nv.,  {clematis  lusitmthi,)  which  was  abundant  alon 
the  river,  contrasted  handsomely  with  the  green  foliage  of  the  trees.  'I'li 
mountain  appeared  to  be  composed  of  a  greenish  gray  and  red  granite,  wliic 
in  some  places  appeared  to  be  in  a  state  of  decom[)osiiion,  making  a  red  soiLl 

The  stream  was  wooded  with  cottonwood,  box  elder,  and  cherry,  with 
currant  and  serviceberry  bushes.  After  a  somewhat  laborious  day,  dunn.' 
which  it  had  r.iin(;d  incessantly,  we  encamped  near  the  end  of  the  pass  ;i; 
the  mouth  of  a  small  creek,  in  sight  of  the  grciat  Ijaranjie  plains.  It  con. 
tiuued  to  rain  heavily,  and  at  evening  the  mountains  were  hid  in  misls; 
but  there  was  no  lack  of  wood,  and  the,  large  fires  we  made  to  dry  oiu 
clothes  were  very  comfortable;  and  at  night  the  hunters  came  in  with  i 
fine  deer.  Rough  and  dinicult  as  we  found  the  pass  to-day,  an  excelleu: 
road  may  be  made  with  a  little  labor.  Elevation  of  the  camp  5,5-10  foot, 
and  distance  from  St.  Vrain's  fort  50  miles. 

July  30. — The  day  was  bright  ngain  ;  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  5a': 
and  leaving  our  encampment  at  S  o'clock,  in  about  half  a  mile  we  crossed 
the  Cnc/ic-a-la-Foudre  Yiver  (or  the  last  time;  and,  entering  a  smoothot 
country,  we  travelled  along  a  kind  of  vallnn,  bounded  on  the  right  by  roij 
buttcsand  precipices,  while  to  the  left  a  high  rolling  country  extended  to  a 
range  of  the  Black  hills,  beyond  which  rose  the  great  mountains  aroutiJ 
Long's  peak. 

By  tjie  great  quantity  of  snow  visible  among  them,  it  had  probably  snow- 
ed heavily  there  the  previous  day,  while  it  had  rained  on  us  in  the  valley 

We  halted  at  noon  on  a  small  branch  ;  and  in  the  afternoon  travellui 
over  a  high  country,  gradually  ascending  towards  a  range  of  Imttes,  or 
high  hills  covered  with  pines,  which  forms  the  dividing  ridge  between  the 
waters  we  had  left  and  those  of  Laramie  river. 

Late  in  the  evening  we  encamped  at  a  spring  of  cold  water,  near  the 
summit  of  the  ridge,  having  increased  or.r  elevation  to  7,520  feet.  Duriii:^ 
the  day  we  had  travelled  24  miles,  liy  some  indifferent  observations,  our'  Jcha 
latitude  is  41°  02'  19".  A  species  of  hedeome.  was  characteristic  along  the  into 
whole  day's  route.  witi 

Emerging  from  the  mountains,  we  entered  a  region  of  bright,  fair  ,  and 
weather.  In  my  experience  in  this  country,  I  was  forcibly  impressed  with  The 
the  different  character  of  the  climate  on  opposite  sides  of  the  Rocky  mouii-  ,  clea 
tain  range.  The  vast  prairie  plain  on  the  east  is  like  the  ocean  ;  the  rain  mik 
and  clouds  from  the  constantly  evaporating  snow  of  the  mountains  rushiii^'  ,  J-, 
down  into  the  heated  air  of  the  plains,  on  which  you  will  have  occasion  to  our 
remark  the  frequent  storms  of  rain  we  encountered  during  our  journey.    ,   witl 

July  31. — The  morning  was  clear ;  temperature  48°.  A  fine  rolling  road,!  Ispol 
among  piney  and  grassy  hills,  brought  us  this  morning  into  a  large  traiiT  and 
where  an  Indian  village  had  recently  passed.  The  weather  was  pleasaiiti  covi 
and  cool ;  we  were  disturbed  by  neither  musquitoes  nor  flies;  and  the  i  mtl 
country  Avas  certainly  extremely  beautiful.  The  slopes  and  broad  ravinoj  and 
were  absolutely  covered  with  fields  of  flowers  of  the  most  exquisitely  beauii-  moi 
ful  colors.  Among  those  which  had  not  hitherto  made  their  appearance,  ami :  the 
whicli  here  were  characteristic,  Avas  a  new  delphinium,  of  a  green  and  i  pro? 


o 


n^ 
»P 

we 

lini 

jaiK 

jbrc 

< 

jthe 

|tiia 
Fii 
son 
mo 

llOfl 

lati 
flor 
wit 
eve 
iiey 

ill  4 
foot 
witl 
pro; 
The 
locci 


(;.\i"r.   FRRMONT'8  N ATIIIATIVK. 


107 


«T1 


;,  and  somotim 
?  if  tlioy  iiidt'm 
jrecn  rivor  bot 
)ik(js  sornetimpi 
sion  of  l)l().sson 
inburulnntalon 

tho  trees.  'I'hi 
3d  granite,  vvliic 
lakinga  rod  soil. 
nd  cherry,  with 
ious  day,  during' 
1  of  the  pass  ;i; 

plains.  It  coil. 
"o  hid  in  nii.sls: 
lado  to  dry  oiu 
came  in  with  ;i 
ly,  an  cxcelloir, 
amp  .OjS-IO  feet, 

at  sunrise  52  , 
rnilc  wo  crossed 
ring  a  smoother 
the  right  by  re 
ry  extended  tea 
3untains  aroutii 

[probably  snow- 
US  in  the  valley 
jrnoon  travelleij 
ge  of  huttes,  oif 
Ige  between  the! 

water,  near  the 
JO  feet.  During 
jservations,  our 
eristic  along  the 

of  bright,  fair 
impressed  with; 
e  Rocky  mouu-' 
ocean ;  the  rain 
)untains  rushiii^ 
ave  occasion  to 
our  journey, 
ine  rolling  road,, 
to  a  large  trail ^ 
er  was  pleasaiii 

flies;  and  the 
broad  ravniev 
juisitely  beauti- 
ippearance,  and 
of  a  green  aui 


iBtrous  motnllif  blue  color,  mingled  witheompnct  fwildsof  several  briqlit- 
olored  vnrifties  of  natrdf^tilus,  whieli  \wv.yo.  crowded  together  in  sphnidid 
fusion.  'This  trail  rondueled  us  through  a  reiufirkable  defile,  to  a  little 
irnbered  creek,  n[>  wliieh  wo  wound  our  way,  passing  by  a  singular  and 
assivo  wall  of  dark-rcid  granite.  Tiie  formation  of  the  country  is  a  rerl 
foklspathic  gr.'itiile,  overlying  a  decomposing  mass  of  the  same  rock,  form- 
ng  the  soil  of  all  this  region,  which  every  where  is  red  and  gravelly,  and 
ppoars  to  be  of  a,  great  lloral  fertility. 
As  wp  en/erged  on  a  small  tributary  of  the  Laramie  river,  coming  in 
iglit  of  its  principal  stream,  the  flora  becam<i  p(!rli!Clly  magnificent;  and 
we  congratulated  ourst^lves,  as  w(!  rode  along  our  pleasant  road,  that  we 
liad  substituted  this  for  th(!  uninteresting  country  between  Larami(!  hills 
and  the  Sweet  Water  valley.  We  had  no  meat  for  supper  last  night  or 
breakfast  this  morning,  and  were  glad  to  see  Carson  come  in  at  nooji  with 
a  good  antelope. 

X  njeridian  observation  of  the  sun  placed  us  in  latitude  4l°04'0f>".  In 
the  evening,  we  encamped  on  the  Laramie  river,  which  is  here  very  thinly 
timbered  with  scattered  groups  of  cotton vvooil  at  consilerabhi  intervals. 
From  our  camp,  W(^  are  able  to  distinguish  llie  gorges,  in  which  are  the 
I  sources  of  Criclie-a-la-Poudre  and  Laramie  rivers;  and  the  Medicine  liow 
mountain,  toward  the  point  of  which  we  are  directing  our  course  this  after- 
noon, has  been  in  sight  the  greater  part  of  tin!  day.  IJy  observation,  the 
latitude  was  41'^  1.5'  02",  and  longitude  10<r'  Ui'  .54".  The  same  beautiful 
flora  continued  till  about  4  in  the  afternoon,  when  it  suddeidy  disappeared, 
with  the  rod  soil,  whicli  became  sandy  and  of  a  whitish-gray  color.  The 
evening  was  tolerably  clear;  temperature  at  sunset  ()4°.  The  day's  jour- 
ney was  .30  miles. 

Jius^ust  1. — The  morning  was  calm  and  clear,  with  sunrise  temperature 
at  42°.  We  travelled  to-day  over  a  plain,  or  open  rolling  country,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Medicine  How  mountain;  the  soil  in  the  morning  being  sandy, 
with  fragments  of  rock  abundant;  and  in  the  afternoon,  when  we  ap- 
.  proached  closer  to  the  mountain,  so  stony  that  we  made  but  little  way. 
The  beautiful  plants  of  yesterday  reappeared  occasionally  ;  flax  in  bloom 
occurred  during  the  morning,  and  esparcette  in  luxuriant  abundance  was  a 
characteristic  of  the  stony  ground  in  the  afternoon.  The  camp  was  roused 
nto  a  little  excitement  by  a  chase  after  a  bull'alo  bull,  and  an  encounter 
ith  a  war  party  of  Sioux  and  Cheyenne  Indians  about  30  strong.  Hares 
nd  antelope  were  seen  during  the  day,  and  one  of  the  latter  was  killed, 
^he  Laramie  peak  was  in  sight  this  afternoon.  The  evening  was 
slear,  with  scattered  clouds:  temperature  62°.  The  day's  journey  was  26 
iles, 

August  2. — Temperature  at  sunrise  52°,  and  scenery  and  weather  made 

our  road  to-day  delightful.     The  neighboring  moimtain  is  thickly  studded 

with  pines,  intermuigted  with  the  brighter  foliage  of  aspens,  and  occasional 

pots  like  lawns  between  the  patches  of  snow  among  the  pines,  and  here 

nd  there  on  the  heights.     Our  route  below  lay  over  a  comparative  plain, 

overed  with  the  same  brilliant  vegetation,  and  the  day  was  clear  and  pleas- 

ntly  cool.     During  the  morning,  we  crossed  many  streams,  clear  and  rocky, 

nd  broad  grassy  valleys,  of  a  strong  black  soil,  washed  down  from  the 

ountains,  and  producing  excellent  pasturage.     These  were  timbered  with 

he  red  willow  and  long-leaved  cottonwood,  mingled  with  aspen,  as  we  ap- 

roached  the  mountain  more  nearly  towards  noon.     Esparcette  was  a  char- 


,<*■■ 


•H 


^^ 


if'*'  • 


in'*?. 

* 

1 

k 

;1 

y, ;  1. «    1 


O'W^ 


108 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARHATIVR. 


\ 


acteristic,  and  llax  occurred  freqiioiiily  in  Ijloom.^    Wc;  hnltod  at  noon  O! 
the  most  western  fork  ot"  Lar;imio  rivor — a  liaiidsonio  stream  about  sixt 
feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep,  with  elear  water  and  a  swift  cnrrent,  over 
bed  composed  entirely  of  houlcJers  or  roll  sioiies.     'I'liero  was  a  largo  opei 
bottom  here,  on  which  wenj  many  lodge;  poles  lying  about;  and  in  t 
edge  of  tlio  surrounding  timber  were  three  strong  forts,  that  a|)peared  t 
have  been  recently  occupied.     At  (his  place  I  became  first  iicqu.-iinted  wit 
tho  i/(/7np(i/i,  {atit'thmn  i!;r(iv('n/t')is,)  which  I  foinid  our  Snake  woiuan  en. 
gaged  iu  digging  in  the  low  tindiered  bottom  of  the  creek.     Among  the  hi. 
dians  along  the  Uocky  mountains,  and  more  particularly  among  the  Slio 
shonee  or  Snake  Indians,  in  who.se  territory  it  is  very  al)undant,  this  j- 
considered  the  best  among  the  roots  used  for  food.     To  ns,  '.t  wjs  an  in 
teresting  plant — a  little  liidc  between  the  savage  and  eiviliz-'d  life.     Here, 
among  the  Indians,  its  root  is  a  common  article  of  food,  which  they  take 
pleasure  in  offering  to  strangers;  while  with  us,  in  a  consiihnable  portioi  l|iiiii 
of  America  and  Eiuope,  the  se(>ds  aie  used  to  tlavor  soup.     It  grows  mou 
abundantly,  and  in  greater  luxuriance,  on  one  of  the  neighboring  tributa 
ries  of  the  Colorado  than  in  any  other  ))art  of  tliis  region  ;  and  on  tlia 
stream,  to  which  the  Snakes  are  accustomed  to  resort  every  year  to  prociir. 
a  supply  of  their  favorite  plaiU,  they  have  bestowed  the  name  of  Yampui 
river.     Among  the  trappers,  it  is  generally  known  as  Little  Snake  river 
but  in  this  and  other  instances,  where  •*  illustrated  the  history  of  the  peo 
pic  inhabiting  the  country,  I  have  prefeired  to  retain  on  the  map  the  abo 
riginal  nan)e.     IJy  a  meridional  observation,  the  latitude  is  41"^  45'  59 

In  the  afternoon  we  took  our  way  directly  across  the  spurs  from  tli( 
point  of  the  mouiUain,  where  we  had  several  ridges  to  cross  ;  and,  al 
though  the  road  was  not  rendered  bad  by  the  nature  of  the  ground,  it  wai 
made  extremely  rough  by  the  stifl' tough  bu.shes  o{  arlemisia  tridentatu 
in  this  country  commonly  called  sage. 

This  shrub  now  began  to  make  its  appearance  in  compact  fields ;  anii 
we  were  about  to  quit  for  a  long  time  this  country  of  excellent  pasliiragt 
and  brilliant  flowers.  Ton  or  twelve  bulialo  bulls  were  seen  during  thf 
afternoon ;  and  Ave  were  surprised  by  the  appearance  of  a  large  red  ox 
We  gathered  around  him  as  if  he  had  been  an  old  acquaintance,  with  ai  lu'aj 
our  domestic  feelings  as  much  awakened  as  if  we  had  come  in  sight  of  ai:- 
old  farm  house.  He  had  probably  made  his  escape  from  some  party  o 
emigrants  on  Green  river;  and,  with  a  vivid  remembrance  of  some  ok 
green  field,  he  was  pursuing  the  straightest  course  for  the  frontier  that  tli',  Ire  ti 
country  admitted.  We  carried  him  along  with  us  as  a  prize;  and,  wher.  ;nd( 
it  was  found  in  the  morning  that  he  had  wandered  otf,  I  would  not  let  hiic  frass 
be  pursued,  for  I  would  rather  have  gone  through  a  starving  time  of  three 
entire  days,  than  let  liim  be  killed  fter  he  had  successfully  run  the  gaunt 
let  so  far  among  the  Indians.  I  have  been  told  by  Mr.  Ben*'<='  people  o;  xce 
an  ox  born  and  raised  at  St.  Vrain's  fort,  which  made  his  escape  from  then 
at  Elm  grove,  near  the  frontier,  having  come  in  that  year  with  the  wagons 
Tiiey  were  on  their  way  out,  and  saw  occasionally  places  where  he  hac 
eaten  and  lain  down  to  rest ;  but  did  not  see  him  for  about  700  miles,  whei: 
they  overtook  him  on  the  road,  travelling  along  to  the  fort,  having  unac 
countably  escaped  Indians  and  every  other  mischance. 


ill 
cr 

g 

11  i 
cai 

itit 
et 

■foo 
11  a 
dj 


blii 
icir 
ni( 
load 
8" 
ibn 
tlioi 
ics 
ith 
lead 
ram 
I'hic 
lie. 
le  ri 
lent 
our! 
owi 
le  f 


nni] 
ulfa 


ith 

ilty 


*  The  greater  portion  of  our  subsequent  journey  was  through  a  region  where  this  shrub  consti 
luted  the  tree  of  the  country  ;  and,  as  it  wilt  often  be  mentioned  in  occasional  descriptions,  the  won. 
artemisia  only  will  be  used,  without  the  specific  name. 


rail 

ceo 
een 
oon 
mif 
iffic 
00  ( 
pi  a 
ver 


CAIT.  FKIIMONT'M  .NAUHATIVK. 


109 


tcrl  at  ribon  oi 
am  about  sixt- 
Lcurront,  over 
vas  a  large  ope 
mu  ;  and  in  ihi 
l»al  appeared  t 
iicquaiiitod  wit 
tiakc  woman  on^ 
Amoiii?  the  In 
iinoiii^  (ho  Slio 
ibiuidaiit,  this 
s,  it  was  an 
Z''(l  hfe.  llfiie, 
vhich  I  hey  tak 
siderable  portioi 
,  It  i^rows  nioFi 
;hboring  tributa 
n\  ;  and  on  tiia 
y  year  to  prociir* 
amn  of  Yuinpat 
tie  Snake  river 
story  of  the  peo 
10  map  the  abo 
is  41^  45'  59' 
I  spurs  from  th* 
)  cross  ;  and,  al 
e  ground,  it  wai 
isia  trideiitatu,] 

pact  fields! ;  audi 
;ellent  pastiiragi 
seen  during  thsj 
a  large  red  o.\.' 
intance,  with  aij 
ne  in  sight  of  aii* 

some  party  o 
ncc  of  some  ok 
rontier  that  llu 
rize;  and,  wlm 
irould  not  let  hiic 
ixg  time  of  three 
y  run  the  gaunt 
iev*'"  people  o; 
scape  from  then 
tvith  the  wagons 
3  where  he  hac 

700  miles,  whei; 
rt,  having  unac- 


ire  this  shrub  const!- 
descriptions,  the  wok 


Wo  encamped  at  evening  on  ll:e  principal  fork  of  Medicine  liow  river. 
lear  to  an  isolated  mountain  called  iImj  Medicine  /hi/te,  which  appeared  lo 
10  about  1,800  I'eei  ai)Ove  the  plain,  fr(Mn  which  it  rises  abruptly,  and  was 
ill  while,  nearly  to  its  base,  with  a  great  (|iiantity  of  siiqw.  The  streams 
ere  limbered  with  the  long-leaved  coitonwood  and  red  willow  ;  and  diir- 
g  the  afternoon  r  species  of  oiuon  was  very  abundant.  I  obtained  I  "re 
1  immersion  of  the  first  satellite  of  Jupiter,  which,  corresponding  very 
early  with  tile  chronometer,  placed  us  in  longitude  10fJ"47'  25".  The 
itiiude,  by  observation,  was  41'^  3T  Id"  ;  elevation  above  the  sea,  7,800 
et;  and  distance  from  St.  drain's  fort.  1  17  miles. 

Jiugtist  ;i. — There  was  a  white  Irost  last  iiii,dit ;  t!io  morning  is  clear  and 
ool.  We  were  early  on  the  road,  having  bre-akfasted  before  sunrise,  and 
1  a  ft:w  miles  travel  entered  (lie  pass  of  fli(!  Medicine  /y<</tV,  through  which 
(i  a  broad  trail,  which  had  be<;n  recently  travelled  by  a  very  large  party, 
ininediately  in  the  pass,  (he  road  was  broken  by  ravines,  and  we  were 
ibliged  to  clear  a  way  through  groves  of  aspens,  which  generally  made 
heir  appearance  when  we  reached  elevated  regions.  According  to  the  ba- 
onieter,  this  was  8,300  feet ;  and  while  we  were  detained  in  opening  a 
oad.  I  obtained  a  meridional  observation  of  the  sun,  which  g:ive  41°  .35' 
S"  for  the  laiitude  of  the  pass.  The  Me(heine  Jhitlc  is  isolated  by  a  small 
ibulary  of  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte,  but  the  mountains  approach  each 
tlicr  very  nearly ;  the  stream  running  at  tlieir  feet.  On  the  .south  they 
ic  smooth,  with  occasional  streaksof  ])ine  ;  but  the  buttc  itself  is  ragged, 
ith  escarpments  of  red  feldspatliic  granite,  and  dark  with  pines;  the  snow 
aching  I'rom  the  summit  to  within  a  few  iiundred  feet  of  the  trail.  The 
raiiiie  here  was  more  compact  and  durable  than  that  in  the  formation 
Inch  we  had  passed  through  a  few  days  before  to  the  eastward  of  Lara- 
lie.  Con{inuing  our  way  over  a  plain  on  the  west  side  of  the  pass,  where 
10  road  was  terribly  rough  with  arteniisia,  we  made  our  evening  encamp- 
lent  on  the  creek,  where  it  took  a  northern  direction,  unlavorable  to  the 
lourse  we  were  pursuing,  liands  of  buffalo  were  discovered  as  we  came 
own  upon  the  plain  ;  and  f'arson  brought  into  the  camp  a  cow  which  had 
le  fat  on  the  lleece  two  inches  tliick.  Even  in  this  country  of  rich  pas- 
irage  and  abundant  game,  it  is  rare  that  the  hunter  chances  upon  a  finer 
nimal.  Our  voyage  had  already  been  long,  but  this  was  the  first  good 
tilfalo  meat  we  had  obtained,  \Vc  travelled  to-day  2ti  miles. 
*,dugiist  4. — The  morning  was  clear  and  calm  ;  and,  leaving  the  creek, 
re  travelled  towards  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte,  over  a  plain  which  was 
jndered  rough  and  broken  by  ravines.  With  the  exception  of  some  thin 
rasses,  the  sandy  soil  here  was  occupied  almost  exclusively  by  artemisia, 
'ith  its  usual  turpentine  odor.  We  had  expected  to  meet  with  some  diffi- 
iilty  in  crossing  the  river,  but  happened  to  strike  it  where  there  was  a  very 
xcellent  ford,  and  halted  to  noon  on  the  left  bank,  200  miles  from  St, 
'rain's  fort.  The  hunters  brought  in  pack  animals  loaded  with  fine  meat, 
ccording  to  our  imperfect  knowledge  of  the  country,  there  should  have 
een  a  small  affluent  to  this  stream  a  few  miles  higher  up  ;  and  in  the  after- 
oon  we  continued  our  way  among  the  river  hills,  in  the  expectation  of  en- 
imping  upon  it  in  the  evening.  The  ground  proved  to  be  so  exceedingly 
ifficuh,  broken  up  into  hills,  terminating  in  escarpments  and  broad  ravines, 
00  or  600  feet  deep,  with  sides  so  precipitous  that  we  cou,ld  scarcely  find 
place  to  descend,  that,  towards  sunset,  I  turned  directly  in  towards  the 
ver,  and,  after  nightfall,  entered  a  sort  of  ravine.  We  were  obliged  to  feel 


M 


'">      ^' 


f*- 


T 


m 


I  ■  i. 
\  •  - 


110 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[I84AM 


i'\r 


' '  •  1' 


k 


slf-s.. 


ei 
ir 
ar 
ou 
usi 
tot 

)ne 

0|i(. 
fV 

nir 

•er 
e 


Nt 


our  way,  and  clear  a  road  in  the  darkness ;  the  surface  being  much  broken, 
and  the  progress  of  the  carriages  being  greatly  obstructed  by  the  artemisia, 
which  had  a  luxuriant  growth  of  four  to  six  feet  in  height.     We  hai 
scrambled  along  this  gully  for  several  hours, during  which  we  had  knocke 
otf  the  carriage  lanips,  brok<'n  a  thcrtnometer  and  several  small  article 
wlicn,  fearing  to  lose  something  of  more  importance,  1  lialled  for  the  nigl 
at  10  o'clock.     Our  animals  were  turned  down  towards  the  river,  that  the 
might  pick  up  what  little  grass  they  could  find  ;  and  after  a  litile  searcli 
some  water  was  found  in  a  small  ravine,  and  improved  hy  digging.     W'el 
lighted  up  the  ravine  with  fires  of  arteniisia,  and  about  midnight  sat  dowi 
to  a  supper  which  we  were  hungry  enough  to  find  delightful — alihougt 
the  bulli'lo  meal  was  crusted  with  sand,  and  the  cofl'ee  was  bitter  with  the 
wormwood  taste  of  the  arlemisia  leave>. 

A  successful  day's  liunt  had  kept  ^iir  hunters  occu|)ied  until  late,  ami 
they  slept  out,  but  rejoined  us  at  daybreak,  when,  finding  ourselves  only 
about  a  mile  from  the  river,  we  followed  the  ravine  down,  and  camped  iiia  l^t  t 
Cottonwood  grove  on  a  beautiful  grassy  bottom,  where  ouranitnals  indem. 
nified  iheniselves  for  the  scanty  lare  of  the  past  niglit.  It  was  quite  a  pretty 
and  pleasant  place  ;  a  narrow  strip  of  prairie  about  five  hundred  yards  Ion 
terminated  at  the  ravine  where  we  entered  by  high  precipitous  hills  closins 
in  upon  the  river,  and  at  the  upper  end  by  a  ridge  of  low  rolling  hills. 

In  the  precipitous  blulfs  were  displayed  a  succession  ol' strata  rontainins 
fossil  vegetable  remains,  and  several  lods  of  coal.  In  some  of  the  beds  the 
coal  did  not  appear  to  be  perfectly  mi'.ieralized  ;  and  in  some  of  the  seams 
it  was  compact  and  remarkably  lustrous.  In  these  latter  places  there  wert 
also  thin  layers  of  a  very  fine  white  salts,  in  powder.  As  we  had  a  large 
supply  of  meat  in  tlie  camp,  which  it  was  necessary  to  dry,  and  the  siir-  |^iet' 
rounding  country  appeared  to  bo  well  stocked  with  bulfalo,  which  it  was 
probable,  after  a  day  or  two,  we  would  not  see  again  until  our  return  to  tin: 
Mississippi  waters,  1  determined  to  make  here  a  provision  of  dried  meat 
which  would  be  necessary  for  our  subsistence  in  the  region  we  were  aboir 
entering,  which  was  said  to  be  nearly  destitute  of  game.  Scaffolds  were 
accordingly  soon  erected,  fires  made,  and  the  meat  cut  into  thin  slices  to  b-: 
dried;  and  all  were  busily  occupied,  when  the  camp  was  thrown  into  a 
sudden  tumult,  by  a  charge  from  about  70  mounted  Indians,  over  the  low 
hills  at  the  upper  end  of  the  little  bottom.  Fortunately,  the  guard,  whoi 
was  between  them  and  our  animals,  iiad  caught  a  glim])se  of  an  Indiaivi 
head,  as  he  raised  himself  in  his  stirrups  to  look  over  the  hill,  a  momeiii 
before  he  made  the  charge  ;  and  succeeded  in  turning  tiie  band  into  thell^i  ^ 

IdcIo: 

itht 

ti  mi 


aiiu 
uit 
jorl 

utit 

.^ 

Jclea 

arr 

[he  < 

sprit 


fimo; 
ovis 
Ol 
')iisi 
hat 
iro 
hro 
vidu 

he' 
lip  ii 


camp,  as  the  Indians  charged  into  the  bottom  with  the  usual  yell.  Before 
they  reached  us,  the  grove  on  the  verge  of  the  little  bottom  was  occupied; 
by  our  people,  and  the  Indians  brought  to  a  sudden  halt,  which  they  made; 
in  time  to  save  themselves  from  a  howitzer  shot,  which  would  undoubtedlyjji'sec 
have  been  very  efl'ective  in  such  a  compact  body ;  and  further  proceedings^ 
were  interrupted  by  their  signs  for  peace.  They  proved  to  be  a  war  party! 
of  Arapaho  and  Cheyenne  Indians,  and  informed  us  that  they  had  charged^  1  pa 
upon  the  camp  under  tlie  belief  that  we  were  hostile  Indians,  and  had  dis- 
covered their  mistake  only  at  the  moment  of  the  attack — an  excuse  which? 
policy  required  us  to  receive  as  true,  though  under  the  full  conviction  tliai;fciica 
the  display  of  our  little  howitzer,  and  our  favorable  position  in  the  grove.! 
certainly  saved  our  horses,  and  probably  ourselves,  from  their  marauding'  ^  fe^ 
intetitions.    They  had  been  on  a  war  party,  and  had  been  defeated,  anS 


CAPT.   FKEMONTS  i\ARKATIVE. 


Ill 


ere  consequently  in  the  state  of  mind  which  aggravates  their  innate 
irst  for  pknidur  and  hlood.     Their  excuse,  however,  was  tal;  m   in  good 
art,  and  the  usual  evidences  of  friendship  interchanged.     The  pipe  went 
ound,  provisions  were  spread,  and  the  tobacco  and  goods  furnished  the 
ustoniary  presents,  whicli  they  look  for  even  from  traders,  and  much  more 
from  (lovernment  authorities. 
Th<!y  were  returning  from  an  expedition  against  the  Shoshojice  Indians, 
ne  of  whose  villag«!s  they  had  surprised,  at  Hridger's  fort,  ou  Ham's  forlv 
fdreen  river,  (in  the  absence  of  the  men,  who  were  eii;,'aged  in  an  ante- 
)|te  surround,)  and  succeeded    in  carrying  olf  their  horses  and   taking 
jluful — altliouglBtt^^^'^i"^'  scalps.     News  of  llie  attack  reached  the  Snakes  immediately,  who 
bitter  with  tlieH|nirsiied  and  overtook  them,  and  recovensd  their  horses  ;  and.  in  the  running 
tijht  which  ensued,  the  Arapahos  had  lost  several  men  killed,  and  a  mini- 
ler  wounded,  who  were  coming  on  more  slowly  with  a  party  in  the  rear. 
Nearly  all  the  horses  they  had  brought  off  were  the  property  of  the  wliites 
t  the  fort.    After  remaining  until  nearly  sunset,  they  took  their  departure; 
find  the  excitement  which  their  arrival  had  afforded  subsided  into  our  usual 
ijuiet,  a  little  enlivened  by  the  vigilance  rendered  necessary  by  the  neigh- 
borhood of  our  uucertain  visiters.   At  noon  the  thermometer  was  at  75°,  at 
;iiiiset  TO'^,  and  the  evening  clear.     Elevation  above  the  sea  6,820  feet ; 
kilitiide  41"  SG'  00";  longitude  107^  22'  27". 

t^usrusl  C). — At  suL.ise  the  thermometer  was  40"^,  the  morning  being 
clear  and  calm.  We  travelled  to-day  over  an  extremely  rugged  country, 
harren  and  uninteresting — nothing  to  be  seen  but  artem.isia  bushes;  and, in 
tiie  evening,  found  a  grassy  spot  among  the  hills,  kept  green  by  several 
springs,  where  we  encamped  late.  Within  a  few  hundred  yards  was  a  very 
netty  little  stream  of  clear  cool  water,  whose  green  banks  looked  refreshing 
imong  the  dry  rocky  hills.  The  inniters  brought  in  a  fat  mountain  sheep, 
ovis  vionianu.) 

Our  road  the  next  day  was  through  a  continued  and  dense  field  of  (irte- 

misia,  which  now  entirely  covered  the  country  in  such  a  luxuriant  growtii 

Ihat  it  was  dillicult  and  laborious  for  a  man  on  foot  to  force  his  way 

through,  and  nearly  impracticable  for  our  light  carriages.     The  region 

hrough  which  we  were  travelling  was  a  high  plateau,  constituting  the  di- 

I'iding  ridge  between  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans,  and 

the  guard,  who!   ^JXtciiding  to  a  considerable  distance  southward,  from  the  neighborhood  of 

of  an  Indian";    'i^e  Table  rock,  at  the  southern  side  of  the  South  Pass.     Though  broken 

hill,  a  momeiii:    ip  into  rugged  and  rocky  hills  of  a  dry  and  barren  nature,  it  has  nothing 

band  into  the'.  >ffi  mountainous  character;  the  small  streams  which  occasionally  occur 

al  yell.     Before;    belonging  neither  to  the  Platte  nor  the  Colorado,  but  losing  themselves 

m  was  occupied;   -'ither  in  the  sand  or  in  small  lakes.     From  an  eminence,  in  the  afternoon, 

hich  they  made!   ^  mountainous  range  became  visible  in  the  north,  in  which  were  rccog- 

Id  undoubtedlyj   '^'sed  some  rocky  peaks  belonging  to  the  range  of  the  Sweet  Water  valley; 

her  proceedins^   ^"d>  determining  to  abandon  any  further  attempt  to  struggle  through  this 

►  be  a  war  paityi  limost  impracticable  country,  we  turned  our  course  directly  north,  towards 

ley  had  chargedH  i  pass  in  the  valley  of  the  Sweet  Water  river.    A  sliaft  of  the  gun  carriage 

IS,  and  had  dis-    ^vas  broken  during  the  afternoon,  causing  a  considerable  delay;  and  it  was 

n  excuse  whichw^^te  in  an  unpleasant  evening  before  we  succeeded  in  finding  a  very  poor 

conviction  tliat,icncampment,  where  there  was  a  little  water  in  a  deep  trench  of  a  creek, 

on  in  the  grove.'rfr'^d  some  scanty  grass  among  the  shrubs.     All  the  game  here  consisted  in 

their  maraudingl^  few  straggling  buffalo  bulls,  and  during  the  day  there  had  been  but  very 

n  defeated,  audi 


ig  much  broken, 
jy  the  arteniisii 
sight.     Wo  h 
wo  had  knockei 
,1  suiall  article 
led  for  the  nig 
Lj  river,  that  the 
r  a  Utile  search, 
y  digging.     VVei 
dnight  sat  down 


d  until  late,  aini 
7;  ourselves  only 
and  camped  in  a 
r  animals  indem. 
as  quite  a  preltj 
ndred  yards  Ions 
itous  hills  closin; 
rolling  hills 
strata  rontainin» 
e  of  the  beds  the 
me  of  the  scams 
)laces  there  wore 
i  we  had  a  large 
ry,  and  the  siir 
lo,  which  it  was 
our  return  to  tlii 
II  of  dried  meat, 
1  we  were  aboii: 
Scatfolds  were 
thin  slices  to  b; 
IS  thrown  into  a 
ns,  over  the  low 


1 1  ■ 


■■  1 


m 


■•."6. 


-r:i^ 


112 


CAPT.  FKEMOXTH  NAKRATIVE. 


[1843.1 


*■". 'V 


,  ;<- 


I' 


liltlo  grnss,  except  in  some  green  spots  where  it  liatl  collected  nround  springs 
or  shallow  lakes.  Within  fil'iy  miles  of  the  Sweet  Water,  the  country 
changed  into  a  vast  saline  plain,  in  many  places  extremely  level,  occasiou* 
ally  resemhlini,'  the  llat  sandy  beds  ol  .shall(»w  lakes.  Here  the  v.'getalion 
consisted  of  a  shrubby  growth,  anions  which  were  several  varieties  ofl 
chenopotliacvotis  plums;  but  the  characteristic  shrub  was  Fremonlid  ver- 
inicutitrin,  with  smaller  saline  slirubs  urowing  Avith  singular  luxurianct? 
and  in  many  places  holding  exchusive  possession  of  the  ground. 

On  the  evening  of  the  8th,  we  encamped  on  one  of  these  fresh-wate; 
lakes,  which  the  traveller  considers  himself  fortunate  to  find  ;  and  the  ne.\ 
day,  in  latitude  by  observation  42°  20'  Oti",  halted  to  noon  inuiiediately  at 
the  foot  of  the  southern  side  of  the  range  which  walls  in  the  Sweet  Watt- 
valley,  on  the  head  of  a  small  tributary  to  that  river. 

Continuing  in  the  afternoon  our  course  down  the  stream,  which  hen 
cuts  directly  through  the  ridge,  forming  a  very  practicable  pass,  we  enteroif 
the  valley  ;  and,  after  a  march  of  about  nine  miles,  enra!ni)ed  on  our  fanu 
iar  river,  endeared  to  us  by  the  nrcpiaiutance  of  the  previous  expedition; 
the  night  having  already  closed  in  with  a  cold  rain  storm.  Our  camp  wa> 
about  iwe'ity  miles  above  the  Devil's  gate,  which  we  had  been  able  to  see 
in  coming  down  the  plain  :  and,  in  the  course  of  the  night,  the  clouds  broke 
away  around  .lupiler  for  a  short  time,  during  which  we  obtained  an  im- 
mersion  of  the  first  satellite,  the  result  ot  which  agreed  very  nearly  v;itl 
the  chronometer,  giving  for  the  mean  longitude  lO?'^  50'  07";  elevatiot. 
above  the  sea  (j,010  feet;  and  distance  from  St.  Vrain's  fort,  by  the  road 
we  had  just  travelled,  315  miles. 

Here  passes  the  road  to  Oregon  ;  and  the  broad  smooth  highway,  where 
the  numerous  heavy  wagons  of  the  emigrants  had  entirely  beaten  and 
crushed  the  artemisia,  was  a  happy  exchange  to  our  poor  animals  for  the 
sharp  rocks  and  tough  shrubs  among  which  they  had  been  toiling  so  long; 
and  we  moved  up  the  valley  rapidly  and  )»leasantly.  With  very  little  de 
viation  from  our  route  of  the  preceding  year,  we  continued  up  the  valley; 
and  on  the  evening  of  the  12th  encamped  on  the  Sweet  Water,  at  a  poiii 
where  the  road  turns  ofi'to  cross  to  the  plains  of  Green  river.  The  increased 
coolness  of  the  weather  indicated  that  we  had  attained  a  great  elevation, 
which  the  barometer  here  placed  at  7,220  feet :  and  during  the  night  water 
froze  in  the  lodge. 

The  morning  of  the  13th  was  clear  and  cold,  there  being  a  white  frost; 
and  the  thermometer,  a  little  before  sunrise,  stanuing  at  26.5°.  Leaving 
this  encampment,  (our  last  on  the  waters  which  flow  towards  the  rising! 
sun,)  we  took  our  way  along  the  upland,  towards  the  dividing  ridge  which 
separates  the  Atlantic  from  the  Pacific  waters,  and  crossed  it  by  a  road  some 
miles  further  south  than  the  one  we  had  followed  on  our  return  in  1842. 
We  crossed  very  near  the  table  mountain,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
South  Pass,  which  is  near  twenty  miles  in  width,  and  already  traversed  by 
several  different  roads.  Selecting  as  well  as  I  could,  in  the  scarcely  distin- 
guishable ascent,  what  might  be  considered  the  dividing  ridge  in  this  re- 
markable depression  in  the  mountain,  I  took  a  barometrical  observation, 
which  gave  7,490  feet  for  the  elevation  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  You 
will  remember  that,  in  my  report  of  1842, 1  estimated  the  elevation  of  this 
pass  at  about  7,000  feet ;  a  correct  observation  with  a  good  barometer  ena- 
Lles  me  now  to  give  it  with  more  precision.  Its  importance,  as  the  great  [f 
gate  through  which  commerce  and  travelling  may  hereafter  pass  between  1 1 


[low 

cha! 

trib( 

refu 

loo: 

)eei 

the 

itF 

iesc 

uid 

0W( 


[184S.I 

around  springjj 
ir,  the  couniryi 
level,  occasion, 
tlid  v.'grtalion 
III  varieties  ofj 
''Vemnndu  verA 
lar  luxiiriano'j 
uid. 

;se  fresh -water 
1 ;  and  the  nex 
immediately  ai 
e  Sweet  Watt' 

im,  which  Iut' 
)ass,  we  entereij 
ed  on  our  fami  • 
)us  expedition, 
Our  camp  wo 
been  able  to  see 
he  clouds  brok*; 
obtained  an  im- 
ery  nearly  vntl 
'  07";  elevatioi. 
ort,  by  the  road 

lighway,  where 
[ely  beaten  and 
animals  for  the 
toiling  so  long 
h  very  little  de 
up  the  valley; 
'ater,  at  a  point 
The  increased 
Igreat  elevation, 
the  night  water 


|g|3,]  CAI'T.  KREMONT'M  NAHltATIVE.  \\3 

Ihe  vnlley  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  north  Pacific,  jiisiifips  a  prrriso  notice 
i#f  its  locality  and  distance  iVom  leading  points,  in  addition  to  tins  statement 
l^its  elevation.      As  slated  in  the   report  of  ISIJ,  its  lafitnd*'  ;it  the  point 

where  wo  crossed  is  12°  24'  32"  ;  its  longitude  lOf)'^  'if]'  00";  its  disiancc 
I  from  the  month  of  the  Kansas,  by  the  conunon  iravelhiig  route,  !»r»2  miles; 
\ttorCi  the  mouth  of  the  (Ireat  IMatte.alonir  the  vallev  of  ihiil  river,  according 


to  oiu'  survey  o 


f  IS-rj,  8Hi  miles;  and  itsdisiance  from  St.  I.oui;  about  lOO 


I  miles  more  by  the  Kansas,  and  about  700  by  tin;  Crent  Platte  rc.ute  ;  these 
additions  being  steamboat  conveyaiicf!  in  both  instances.  From  this  pass 
tn  the  nioutli  of  the  Oregon  is  about  1,100  miles  by  the  coumion  travelling 
routti;  so  that,  under  aireneral  point  of  view,  u  may  be  assumed  to  be;  abotU 
halfway  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  racifu^  ocean,  on  the  common 

'  tr;ivol!ing  route.  Following  a  hollow  of  slight  and  easy  descent,  in  which 
was  very  soon  formed  a  liiiie  iribiUary  to  flu;  (Inlf  of  California,  (for  the 

.  waters  which  Mow  west  from  tlie  South  Pass  go  to  this  gull',)  wo  made  our 

'  usual  halt  four  miles  I'rom  the  j)ass,  in  latimde  l)y  observation  42°  IM'  r^3". 

-  Entering  here  the  valley  of  (Ireen  river — the  great  ('olorado  of  tin;  West — 
and  inclitung  very  nuich  to  the  southward  along  the  streams  which  form 
the  Sandy  river,  the  road  hul  for  several  days  over  dry  and  level  umnter- 
csliiig  plains;  to  which  a  low,  scrubby  growth  of  artemisia  gave  a  unifonu 
dull  grayish  color;  and  on  the  evening  of  the  l/ith  v/o  encamped  in  the 
Mexican  territory,  on  the  left  bank  of  Green  rivtsr,  (»9  miles  from  the  South 
Pass,  in  longitude  110°  05"  05",  and  latitude  11^5.'}'  54",dista»jt  1,0.31  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  tla;  Kansas.  This  is  tne  emigrant  road  to  Oregon,  which 
bears  much  to  the  southward,  to  avoid  the  mountains  about  the  western 
heads  of  (ireen  river— the  IHo  f  'crr/r  of  \\\o  Spaniards. 

t//ugtt\'f  H). — Crossing  the  river,  here  about  400  If-et  wide,  by  a  very  good 
ford,  we  continued  to  descend  for  seven  or  eight  miles  on  a  pleasant  road 
along  the  right  bank  of  the  strean!,of  which  the;  islands  and  shores  are  hand- 
somely timbered  vith  cottonwood.  The  refreshing  appearance  of  the  broad 
river,  with  its  timbered  shores  and  green  woorled  islands,  in  contrast  to  its 
dry  sandy  plains,  probably  obtained  for  it  the  name  of  Green  river,  which 
was  bestowed  on  it  by  the  Spaniards  who  first  came  into  this  country  to 
trade  some  2.5  years  ago.  It  was  then  familiarly  known  as  the  Seeds-ke- 
dee-agie,  or  Prairie  Hen  {letran  nrophasiinnifi)  river;  a  name  which  it  re- 
ceived ftom  the  Crows,  to  whom  its  upper  waters  belong,  and  on  which  this 
bird  is  still  very  abundant.  By  the  Shoshonee  and  Utah  Indians,  to  whom 
belongs,  for  a  considerable  distance  below,  the  country  where  we  were  now 
.  .  travelling,  it  was  called  the  Bitter  Root  river,  from  the  great  abundance  in 
ards  tlie  "snig:   \[^  valley  of  a  plant  which  affords  them  one  of  their  favorite  roots.     Lower 


|g  a  white  frost;. 
16.5°.     Leaving 


[ng  ridge  which 

J  by  a  road  some 

(return  in  1842. 

]xtreriiity  of  the 

iy  traversed  by 

I  scarcely  distin- 

lidge  in  this  re- 

\dX  observation. 

Mexico.     You 

levation  of  this 

Ibarometer  ena- 

:e,  as  the  great 

pass  between 


[lown,  from  Brown's  hole  to  the  southward,  the  river  runs  through  lofty 
chasms,  walled  in  by  precipices  of  red  xock\  and  even  among  the  wilder 
ribes  who  inhabit  that  portion  of  its  course,  I  have  heard  it  called  by  Indian 
efugees  from  the  Californian  settlements  the  Rio  Colorado.  We  halted  to 
loon  at  the  upper  end  of  a  large  bottom,  near  some  old  houses,  which  had 
een  a  trading  post,  in  latitude  41°  46'  54".  At  this  place  the  elevation  of 
he  river  above  the  sea  is  6,230  feet.  That  of  Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia 
t  Fort  Hall  is,  according  to  our  subsequent  observations,  4,500  feet.  The 
iescent  of  each  stream  is  rapid,  but  that  of  the  Colorado  is  but  little  known, 
uid  that  little  derived  from  vague  report.  Three  hundred  miles  of  its 
ower  part,  as  it  approaches  the  gulf  of  California,  is  reported  to  be  smooth 
8 


■K 


114 


CATT    IKI'MONTM  N AHUATIVK 


|v^" 


and  trati<{iiil ;  hut  its  iippiir  part  is   iiiariif'ustly  hrokcn   into   many  fal)t 
and  rapids.     Kroiii  iiiniiy  (i(!M'ripii(>ns  of  (rappers,  it  is  prohal>l<>  that  in  ilij 
Uiaiiiiiii;  foiirsf  aiiiiMi;^  lis  lofiy  prrcipic  cs  it  prfsfiils   tiiany  srciH's  of  wild 
i^Taiidi'iir ;  iiinl  ihoiiuh  ,<il<'iiiiir  many  Iciiiplalioiis,  and  olicii  <h><Miss(>d,  imj 
tra]>pui-8  have  hrcii  I'otuid  hold  (inoii^h  to  mxlitrtako  a  voya^n  which  has  to] 
crriain  a  prospi><>.i  ot'a  fatal  iciiniiiatioii.     'I'hr  Indians  have  .strant^o  srnriei 
ot'  hcauiilnl  valleys  ahoinidiiiu;  with  l)(^'lv^>r,  shut  up  ainoni,'  inaccessible ( 
walls  of  rock  in  tlm  lower  course  oi  the  rjver ;  and  to  which  iIkj  llel^hhor. 
ing  Iiulians,  in  their  occasional  \Tars  with  ihu  S|)aniards,  and  atuoug  them- 
selves,  drivti  their  luirds  of  cattle  and  lIocUs  of  shoe|),  leaving'  iheui  to  pas- 
ture in  pt  rfecl  secnrily. 

The  road  hen-  leaves  the  river,  which  hoiidscousiderahly  to  the  east;  and 
111  the  afternoon  we  riisiuunul  our  wesf<'rly  course,  passini;  over  usoiu(!what 
hi^h  and  broken  country  ;  and  ahoul  sunset,  after  a  day's  travel  of  2li  uiilcd, 
rtsicheil  DIaek's  fork  of  llie  (Ireeii  iiver — a  shallow  stream,  with  a  some, 
wlial  sluggish  current,  ahuul  l:J(Jl'<:cl  widts,  liinhered  principally  with  wil- 
low,  and  here  and  there  au  occasional  large  tree.  At  .'t  in  tin;  morning  1 
oblaineil  au  observation  of  an  enu'rsiou  of  the  lirsl  satellite  of  .Jupiter,  with 
other  observations.  Tlu;  heavy  wagniis  havt;  so  comphMely  pulverized  the 
soil,  thai  clouds  of  line  light  (lu.st  ar(!  raised  by  the  slightest  wind,  uuikitrj; 
the  road  sometimes  very  ilisagreeable. 

*/Jit^u.sf  17. — Leaving  our  encumpmeiil  at  0  in  the  uiDruing,  wo  travelled 
along  the  ln)ttom,  which  is  about  two  miles  wide,  bordered  by  low  lulls,  in 
which  the  strata  contained  liaiidsonK;  and  very  distinct  vegetable  fossils.  In 
a  gully  a  short  distance  farther  up  :lu!  river,  and  underlying  these,  was  ex- 
posed a  stralutu  of  un  impure  (U*  argillaceous  limestone.  Crossing  ou  the 
way  Black's  fork,  where  it  is  oik;  loot  deep  and  forty  wid(»,  with  clear  water 
and  a  pebbly  bed,  in  niiuj  miles  we  reached  Ilaiu's  fork,  a  tributary  to  tin; 
former  stream,  having  now  about  sixty  leel  breatlth,and  a  few  inches  depth 
of  water.  It  is  wooded  with  thickets  of  red  willow,  and  in  the  bottom  is  a 
tolerably  strong  growth  of  gias".  'I'lo  road  here  makes  a  traverse  of  twelve 
miles  across  a  bend  of  the  river.  I'assing  in  the  way  some  remarkable  jiills, 
two  or  tl'.me  hundred  feet  high,  with  freciueiil  and  nearly  vertical  efcarp. 
nients  of  a  green  stone,  consisting  of  an  aigillaceous  carbonate  of  lime,  nl 
teruating  with  strata  of  an  iroiibrown  limestone,  and  worked  into  pictui' 
esque  forms  by  wind  and  ruin,  at  2  m  (he  afternoon  we  reached  the  river 
again,  having  made  today  xil  miles.  Since  crossing  the  great  dividing 
ridge  of  the  Rock;'  monntains,  plants  have  been  very  few  iu  variety,  the 
country  being  covered  principally  with  arlemisia. 

*/iugust  IS, — We  passed  ou  the  road,  this  morning,  tlie  grave  of  one  o! 
the  emigrants,  being  the  second  we  had  seen  since  falling  into  their  trail 
and  halted  to  noon  on  the  river,  a  short  distance  above. 

The  Shoshonee  woman  took  leave  of  us  here,  expecting  to  find  some  oi 
her  relations  at  Bridger's  fort,  wliich  is  only  a  mile  or  two  distant,  on  a 
fork  of  this  stream.  In  the  evetiing  we  encamped  on  a  salt  creek,  aboii; 
fifteen  feet  wide,  having  to-day  travelled  .32  miles. 

I  obtained  an  emersion  of  the  first  satellite  under  favorable  circumstances, 
the  night  being  still  and  clear. 

One  of  our  mules  died  here,  and  in  this  portion  of  our  journey  we  losij 
six  or  seven  of  our  animals.    Tlie  grass  which  the  country  had  lately 
forded  was  very  poor  and  insufficient ;  and  animals  which  have  been  i 


asc 

for 

pai 

tail 

ed 

ant 

by 

mo 

an( 

bet 


[lNt.S    11410 


<!ArT    FHKMi.NTH  NAK«ATI\  K 


n. 


to  many  fal)»j 

il)li<  ihat  in  itij 
siciH's  of  wild] 
I  discussed,  no 
I!  wliicli  has  10 
slriin,m)  sroriei 
ju;  iiiju'oes.siblej 
I  ih(!  iH'ii^lihor- 
il  aiMoiiu;  thorn* 
^  ihuiu  lo  P'ls- 

n  iho  east;  mid 
nir  usonjcwhrit 
ivcl  t»r  -t)  inil<!n. 
1,  with  a  soiin;- 
|);dly  with  wil- 
1  th(;  moriiiiiu;  I 
1)1  .liipitor,  Willi 
f  pulverized  tiic 
,t  wind,  uiakiti.! 

li,',  wo  lravt;llt'(l 
by  low  hills,  ill 
'table  fossils.  In 
(T  Ihcsc,  was  ex- 
[Jri)ssiut(  oil  lilt; 
wiUi  clear  watf't 
1  tributary  to  tlui 
;w  inches  deptli 
llio  botloui  is  ;i 
rorso  oC  twelve 
•mar Uable  hills, 
vtrlical  escarp- 
uate  of  lime,  al- 
;ed  into  pictiii- 
laciied  the  rivet 
<,'real  dividing 
iu  variety,  ilie 


trravc  of  one  o! 
into  their  trail; 

to  find  some  oi 
vo  distant,  on  a 
salt  creek,  aboui 


le  circumstancesj; 


journey  we  losii 
ry  had  lately  at'j 
h  have  been  ac« 


.1, 


0IMtoined  to  f^rnin  brroinn  'oon  weak  nnd  unable  to  labor,  when  rediicod  to 
BO  uliivr  iinurishiiinnt  than  yrass.  The  Auieriean  horseM  (itsthoNO  tiru 
niually  called  which  are  brout{lit  to  ihiH  country  Irotu  tli*'  Suiics)  nre  not  of 
tny  serviceable  valine  until  aller  llicy  have  retnaiiK  d  a  wniter  in  the  coiut- 
try,  and  become  aceustouicd  to  live  entirely  on  ura^s. 

^lui^iist  IM.  —  I)«!.siroiis  to  avoid  every  delny  not  absolutely  necessary,  1 
tent  on  Oarsori  in  advance  to  Fort  llall  this  iuornin^,l<i  uiak*;  arrangeiiiuht.s 
for  a  small  supply  of  proviMoiis.  A  few  mile:4  Irom  uwx  eiicampmenl,  iho 
foad  entered  a  hitdi  iid^'f,  which  the  trappers  called  the  "  litlle  luouutani," 
coiineclini:;  the  lllali  with  llie  Wind  river  chain  ;  and  in  oim;  of  the  lulls  near 
which  wo  passed  I  leminkcd  strata  of  a  coni^loiiierate  formation,  Irai,'- 
iiierits  of  which  were  scattered  (»ver  the  surface.  We  crossed  a  ridj^e  of 
ifiis  (■oiiL,'lomerate.  the  road  [lassiii;^'  near  a  t,'rove  of  low  cedar,  and  de- 
scended U|)oii  oikm)!  the  heads  of  Ham's  h»rK,  called  Mudily,  where  wo 
made  our  midday  halt.  In  the  river  hills  at  this  place,  I  discovered  strata 
of  fossilliferous  rockJiavinu:  an  nolilir  stnictiirc,  wliicti,  in  ctMiiiexion  with 
the  neitihboriiii,'  strata,  aiitliori/e  us  to  b«tlii-ve  ihiii  Im  re,  on  the  west  .side 
ol  the  Kocky  mountains,  we  liiid  repeated  the  modern  form;'.tions  of  Great 
Ihitain  and  lOnrope,  which  have  hiilierlo  been  waniii'g  to  coinplelo  tlio 
system  of  North  iXincrican  ircoloL'y. 

Ill  the  afternoon  w(!  cMitiniied  our  road,  and,  s(!arcliiii<,'  anionic  the  fiills 
a  few  tnilt^s  up  the  stream,  and  on  the  same  bank,  1  discovered,  aniomr  alter- 
iiatiiij,'  beds  of  coal  and  clay,  a  stratum  of  white  induratcii  cluy,  coiilainintj 
very  clear  and  b<;auiifiil  imprcrssions  of  v(?getable  remains,  'i'his  was  iho 
most  iiiterestiiii»  fossil  locality  I  had  met  in  the  country,  and  I  d(!e|)ly  re- 
ijrelttid  that  time  did  not  permit  me  to  remain  a  day  or  two  in  the  vicinity; 
but  1  could  not  anticipate  ihi;  ilelays  to  which  I  mii^dit  be  e.\pos(.'d  in  iho 
course  of  our  journey — or,  rather,  1  knew  that  tJiey  were,  many  aiuJ  iiiovi- 
tabb;;  and  alter  reinaitiiii'^^  here  only  about  an  hour,  I  liiirried  oil',  loaded 
with  as  many  s[)ccimens  as  1  could  conveniently  carry. 

Coal  made  its  ap|)earanc(;  o(,'casionally  iu  the  hills  during  the  afternoon, 
and  was  displayed  in  rabbit  Imrrows  in  a  kind  of  gap,  through  which  wo 
pasRcil  over  some  high  hills,  and  we  descended  to  n;ako  our  encampment 
on  the  saiue  sirotim,  whert!  we  (bund  but  very  poor  grass.  In  the  evening 
a  fiiio  cow,  with  her  call,  which  had  strayed  oil"  from  some  emigrant  party, 
were  found  several  miles  from  the  road,  and  brought  into  camp;  and  as 
she  gave  an  abundance  of  milk,  we  enjoyed  to-night  an  exct.'ll(;nt  cup  of 
colfee.  We  travelled  to-day  2S  miles,  and,  as  has  been  usual  since  crossing 
the  Green  river,  the  road  has  been  very  dusty,  and  the  weather  smoky  and. 
oppressively  hot.     Artemisia  was  characteristic  among  the  few  plants. 

*/Jufftist  ^0. — We  continued  lo  travel  up  the  creek  by  a  very  gradual 
ascent  and  a  very  excellent  grassy  road,  passing  on  the  way  several  small 
forks  of  the  stream.  The  hills  here  arc  higher,  presenting  escarpments  of 
parti-colored  and  apparently  clay  rocks,  purple,  dark  red,  and  yellow,  con- 
taining strata  of  sandstone  and  limestone  with  shells,  with  a  bed  of  cement- 
ed pebbles,  the  whole  overlaid  by  beds  of  limestone.  The  alternation  of  red 
and  yellow  gives  a  bright  appearance  to  the  hills,  one  of  which  was  called 
by  our  people  the  Haiiibow  hill ;  and  the  character  of  the  country  became 
more  agreeable,  and  travelling  far  niore  pleasant,  as  now  we  found  timber 
and  very  good  grass.  Gradually  ascending,  we  reached  the  lower  level  of  a 
bed  of  white  limestone,  lying  upon  a  white  clay,  on  the  upper  line  of  which 


t  , 


»>> 


'i. 


,  > 


i 


116 


c;apt.  rnKMoNTN  nnrhative. 


[IMl 


tin;  wlioln  rorid  is  altuiidaiitly  Hiipplii'd  witU  bcuinrul  ro»l  npringt,  KUthing 
out  (1  fool  in  lircadth  uiid  .M>vi>ral  iiicIii'.h  dtii'p,  directly  Iroiii  ihu  lull  itide.  At 
noon  wt>  lialtrd  at  iIm;  Iii>i  iiiaiti  tork  ot'ilio  crurk,  at  an  lUtvalion  of  7,l20(> 
firot,  and  in  laiiliid«<.  liv  oliMTVuiioti,  11'  :iU'  -15'  ;  and  in  the  iiflcrnoon  coi). 
liniD'd  on  iIk!  ^aiiii*  im  I'llmt  load,  up  tlit<  Icl'l  or  notili<<rn  loik  ot'  th« 
.slreuiii,  towurcU  its  head,  in  a  ptiiis  winch  lliu  liaromviur  iila<-(  d  ai  M,'^:i()t«fU 
ubovu  tlio  Ncii.  This  IS  :i  coiiiKJCiiiig  rid^*>  hctwoiMi  the  (tali  or  licur  rivtM 
mountains  aixl  tlu!  Wiml  nv«>r  chain  ot  the  Rocky  iiiotintnins,  .siipur.ittnij 
tin;  waters  td  the  uull  ol  ('aUrornia  on  the  «'asl,  and  lln)^u  on  the  west  be- 
longing more  diret  ily  (o  the  I'acdic,  Iroiii  a  vast  interior  husin  wlioiiu  rivor.s 
nrn  rojlcctcd  into  nnineron.«i  lakes  having  no  oiidet  lo  th«.>  ucuaii.  From  ih*! 
siiinrnit  of  this  p:i>s,  the  hitdiest  which  the  ri»ad  ( ro.sses  hetweentho  Missm- 
;sippi  and  the  W'esiern  ocean,  our  view  wasover  a  very  inoiiniaiiioiis  region, 
U'liost!  rnggud  appenranco  was  greatly  int:reas(!d  hy  the  smoky  weather, 
through  which  the  hrokeii  ridgos  wore  dark  and  dimly  m'UIi.  TIiu  ascent 
to  till'  simnnit  of  the  gap  wa.-*  occaNionully  siiieper  than  ihe  national  road  iii 
the  Alloghanies;  and  the  descent,  hy  way  of  a  spur  on  tho  we>(ern  side,  ii 
rather  jirecipiioiis,  hut  tho  pass  may  .still  ho  culled  a  good  one.  Soino 
thickets  of  willow  in  the  hollows  below  decoivod  ns  into  tim  expoclution  o( 
finding  a  camp  at  oiir  usual  hour  al  the  foot  of  the  mountain  ;  but  we  found 
them  without  water,  and  continued  down  a  ravine,  and  encamped  ubom 
dark  at  a  place  where  tin;  springs  again  began  lo  make  thoir  appearance, 
but  where  our  animals  fared  budly  ;  the  stock  of  tlio  emigrants  Iinvitig 
razed  tho  grass  as  completely  as  if  we  were  again  in  LiO  midst  of  the 
btitfalo. 

^'lugHst  21.  — An  hour's  travel  this  morning  brou-jht  ns  into  tho  fertile 
and  picturesquo  valley  of  Hear  river,  tho  principal  tribiiiary  to  the  (Ireat 
Salt  lake.  The  stream  is  bore  200  feet  wide,  fringtjd  witli  willows  and 
occasional  groups  of  hawthorns.  Wo  were  now  entering  a  region  which 
for  us  possessed  a  strange  and  extraordinary  interest.  We  were  upon  the 
waters  of  the  famous  lake  which  forms  a  salient  point  among  tho  romarka- 
blo  geographical  features  of  the  country,  and  around  which  tho  vague  and 
super.stitious  accmints  of  tho  trapper.s  liad  thrown  a  delightful  obscurity, 
which  we  anticipated  pleasure  in  dispelling,  but  which,  in  the  mean  time, 
left  a  crowded  field  for  the  exercise  of  our  inuiginaiion. 

Fn  our  occasional  conversations  with  tho  few  old  hunters  who  had  visited 
the  region,  it  had  becMi  a  subject  of  frequent  speculation;  and  the  wonders 
which  they  related  were  not  tho  Ies.s  agreeable  becau.se  they  wore  highly 
exaggerated  and  impossible. 

Hitherto  this  lake  had  been  seen  only  by  trappers  who  were  wandering 
through  the  country  in  search  of  new  beaver  streams,  caring  very  little  for 
geography;  its  islands  had  never  been  visited ;  and  none  were  to  be  found 
who  had  entirely  made  the  circuit  of  its  shojes;  and  no  instrumental  ob- 
servations or  geographical  survey,  of  any  description,  had  ever  been  made 
any  where  in  the  neighboring  region.  It  wis  generally  supposed  that  it 
had  no  visible  outlet ;  but  among  the  trappers,  including  those  in  my  own 
camp,  were  many  who  believed  tiiat  soniow'iery  on  its  surface  was  a  ter- 
rible whirlpool,  through  which  its  waters  found  their  way  to  the  ocean  b/ 
some  subterranean  communication.  All  these  things  had  made  a  frequent 
subject  of  discussion  in  our  desultory  conversations  around  the  fires  at 
eight ;  and  my  own  mind  had  become  tolerably  well  filled  with  their  in- 


1 


fJAIT.  rur.VKJNTi*  NARRATIVE. 


117 


ingi,  giiihing 
lull  suits.  At 
iiiDii  <»l'  7,'20u 

llcillOOll  COI). 

II  lork  ot'  th« 

(hit  M,'2:U)f«#!t 

or  licur  river 
IIS,  Nupuraiiiig 

I  llu!  WC.Hl  b«'. 

I  wliiiso  riv«M> 
III.  From  ih*: 
cti  lliu  MisM.^t- 
:iiii()iis  region, 
loky  NVo.itliiM, 
.  Tlio  usct'iu 
itioiiul  roud  ill 
rcRicni  sido,  h 
I  oiii!.  Some 
I'Xpcctiitioii  ol 
;  l)llt  wu  t'ouiid 
nimprd  uliotii 
,r  iij>|)caraiic»', 
grunts  having 
j  midst  of  iht; 

iiito  the  frrtile 
r  to  the  CI  real 
1  willows  and 
.  region  which 
ver*^  upon  the 
,'  the  roinarka- 
tho  vague  and 
tl'iil  obscurity, 
ic  mean  time, 

10  had  visited 
llio  wonders 
were  highly 

ire  wandering 
very  little  for 
re  to  he  found 
•trumental  ob- 
'er  been  madt; 
iposed  that  it 
ise  in  my  own 
ace  was  a  ter- 
the  ocean  b/ 
ide  a  frequent 
[id  the  fires  at 
with  their  in- 


d«flnUfl  pictum,  And  iii!NOii*til>ly  colored  with  ihtMr  romnniic  il(>Mrrlpiioii<i, 
which,  ill  till'  pliMiMiri'  ot  cxciirtiu'iit,  I  wan  wcdl  di.tposfd  lo  l)idi('vu,  and 
llAlfeXpecU'd  to  ru.tli/i). 

Wliero  wc  drNccndi'd  iiiio  this  hoautiiul  vntli^y,  it  ix  ihrut*  to  four  inilrN  in 
jreadth,  perfectly  level,  and  houndiid  by  moiintuiiiouH  rid^uM,  one  abovu 
anf^ther,  rising  suddiiily  I'roiii  the  plain. 

VV<;  coiitimiiMl  our  road  down  the  river,  and  at  ni^ht  •ncumped  with  a 
(iiiiiily  of  (>niiu^r. lilts — two  men.  women,  and  several  chiltlren — who  ap- 
p<aii>d  to  be  brill^ill^  up  tlio  rear  of  the  great  caravan.  1  was  struck  with 
tli«;  fiiK!  appearance  ol  ih«>ir  ratilr,  sonu'  six  or  eii^lit  yoke  of  oxen,  which 
really  looked  ii.s  well  hm  iI  tlicy  had  hern  nil  iho  Miin.iier  at  work  on  some 
^uod  farm.  It  was  sirani^e  to  m  "  oii<  sui.ill  family  travelling  along  through 
•iirli  a  country,  so  remote  from  civilization.  Some  nine  years  since,  such 
,1  security  iniglit  have  been  a  fatal  one;  but  since  iIiimt  ijisastroiis  dt^feats 
III  till!  country  a  little  norlli,tlii!  Mlackteel  hav<.>  ceasi^d  to  visit  these  waters. 
Iiidiaiis,  however,  are  V(!ry  nnccrljiiii  iii  their  loialiiici;  and  the  friendly 
leelings,  also,  of  those  now  inhabiting  it  may  be  changed. 

Accorchng  lo  baronn;lric.'il  observation  at  noon,  the  ilevalioii  of  the  valley 
was  «),l()()  feet  above  tlu;  sea  ;  and  our  encampment  at  niulil  in  latitude 
IJ  03'  IT'^ai"'  longitude  III'  10'  5:3  ",  by  obsDrvatioii — the  day's  journey 
having  been  2(J  miles.  This  encampment  was  theretoru  within  the  territo- 
rial limit  of  tli<i  United  States;  our  travelling,  from  the  lime  we  entered  the 
valley  of  the  (ireeii  river,  on  the  \M\\  of  Aiiunsl,  having  been  to  the  south 
(if  the  4iid  degree  of  norili  laiihide.and  coiiseipieiitly  on  Mexican  territory; 
and  this  is  the  route  all  the  emigrants  now  travel  to  Oregon. 

The  temperature  at  sunset  was  fi5^ ;  and  at  evening  there  was  a  distant 
dinnder  storm,  with  a  light  bneze  from  the  north. 

Antelop(t  and  elk  were  seen  during  the  day  on  the  opposite  prairie;  and 
there  were  ducks  and  geese  in  the  river. 

The  next  morning,  in  about  three  miles  from  our  encaini)uiciit,  we  reach- 
ed Smith's  fork,  a  .stream  of  clear  water,  al»out  50  l"(;e;  in  breadth.  It  is 
timbered  with  cottoiiwocxi,  willow,  and  aspeii;  and  makcis  a  beautiful  de- 
bouchement  through  a  pass  about  (iOO  yards  wide,  between  remarkable 
mountain  hills, rising  abruptly  on  either  side, and  forming  gigantic  columns 
to  the  gale  by  which  it  (Jiiters  Hv.ar  river  valley.  The  bottoms,  which  below 
Smith's  fork  had  been  two  miles  wide, narrowed, as  we  advanced,  to  a  uap 
500  yards  wide ;  and  during  the  greater  part  of  the  day  we  had  a  winding 
route,  the  river  making  very  sharp  and  sudden  bends,  the  mountains  steep 
and  rocky, and  the  valley  occasionally  so  narrow  as  only  to  leave  space  for 
a  passage  through. 

We  made  our  halt  at  noon  in  a  fertile  bottom,  where  the  common  bluo 
flax  was  growing  abundantly,  a  few  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Thomas's 
fork,  one  of  the  larger  tributaries  of  liie  river. 

Crossing,  in  the  afternoon,  the  point  of  a  narrow  spur,  we  descended  into 
a  beautiful  bottom,  formed  l)y  a  lateral  valley,  which  prei;ented  a  picture 
of  home  beauty  tiiat  went  directly  to  our  hearts.  The  edge  of  the  wood, 
for  several  miles  along  the  river,  was  dotted  with  the  white  covers  of  emi- 
grant wagons,  collected  in  groups  at  different  camps,  where  the  smokes 
were  rising  lazily  from  the  fires,  around  which  the  women  were  occupied 
in  preparing  the  evening  meal,  and  the  children  playing  in  the  grass;  and 
herds  of  cattle,  grazing  about  in  the  bottom,  had  an  air  of  quiet  security. 


'i' 


■'■V/ 


■/'  *. 


\*> 


■■»%' 

Ik 


^''^^i  i 


,j  •••',' 


i',  .■*■ 


lis 


OAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1943. 


aiiH  civilizofl  comfort,  that  made  a  rare  sight  for  the  traveller  in  such  a 
rcMiote  wildnriinss. 

Id  cominoii  with  all  the  emigration,  they  liaJ  heeii  reposing  for  several 
days  in  this  dulightfiil  valley,  in  order  to  rccrnit  their  animals  on  its  luxuri- 
ant pastnrage  after  their  long  journey,  and  prepare  them  for  the  hard  travel 
along  the  comparatively  sterile  banks  of  the  Upper  Columbia.  At  the 
lower  end  of  this  extensive  bottom,  the  river  passes  through  an  open  caiicfn, 
Avhere  there  were  high  vortical  rocks  to  the  water's  edge,  and  the  road  here 
turns  up  a  broad  valley  to  the  right.  Il  was  alrciidy  near  sunset ;  but. 
hoping  to  reach  the  river  again  before  night,  we  continued  our  march 
along  the  valley,  finding  the  road  tolerab/y  good,  until  we  arrived  at  a  point 
■where  it  crosses  the  ridge  by  nn  ascent  of  a  mile  in  length,  which  was  so 
very  steep  and  difficult  for  the  gun  and  carriage,  that  we  did  not  reach  the 
summit  until  dark. 

It  was  absolutely  necessary  to  descend  into  the  valley  for  water  and  grass; 
and  wc  were  obliged  to  grope  our  way  in  the  darkness  down  a  very  steep, 
bad  jnountain,  reaching  the  river  a*  about  10  o'clock.  It  was  late  before 
our  animals  were  gathered  into  camp,  several  of  those  which  were  very 
weak  being  necessarily  left  to  pass  the  night  on  tlie  ridge;  and  we  sat  down 
again  to  a  midnight  supper.  The  road,  in  the  morning,  presented  an  ani- 
mated appearaii  e;  We  found  that  we  had  encamped  near  a  large  party  of 
emigrants;  and  a  few  miles  below  another  party  was  already  in  motion. 
Here  the  valley  had  resumed  its  usual  breadtli,  and  the  river  swept  off 
along  the  mountains  on  the  western  side,  the  road  continuing  direnly  on. 

In  about  an  hour's  travel  we  met  several  Shoshonee  Indians,  who  in- 
formed us  that  they  belonged  to  a  large  village  which  had  just  come  into 
the  valley  from  the  mountain  to  the  westward,  where  they  had  been  hunt- 
ing antelope  and  gathering  service  berries.  Glad  at  the  opportunity  of 
seeing  one  of  their  villages,  and  in  the  hope  of  purchasing  from  them  a 
few  horses,  I  turned  immediately  off  into  the  plain  towards  their  encamp- 
ment, which  was  si'uated  on  a  small  stream  near  the  river. 

We  had  approached  within  something  more  than  a  mile  of  the  village, 
when  suddenly  a  single  horseman  emerged  from  it  at  full  Gj^eed,  followed 
by  another,  and  another,  in  rapid  succession  ;  and  then  party  after  party 
poured  into  the  plain,  until,  when  the  foremost  rider  reached  us,  all  the 
whole  intervening  plain  was  occupied  by  a  mass  of  horsemen,  which  came 
charging  down  upon  us  with  guns  and  naked  swords,  lances,  and  bows 
and  arrows — Indians  entirely  naked,  and  warriors  fully  dressed  for  war, 
with  the  long  red  streamers  of  their  war  bonnets  reaching  nearly  to  the 
ground — all  mingled  together  in  the  bravery  of  savage  warfare.  They  had 
been  thrown  into  a  sudden  tumult  by  the  appearance  of  our  flag,  which, 
among  these  people,  is  regarded  as  an  emblem  of  hostility;  il  being  usually 
borne  by  the  Sioux,  and  the  neighboring  mountain  Indians,  when  they 
come  here  to  war ;  and  we  had  accordingly  been  mistaken  for  a  body  of 
their  enemies.  A  few  words  from  the  chief  quieted  the  excitement;  and 
the  whole  band,  increasing  every  moment  in  number,  escorted  us  to  their 
encampment,  where  the  chief  pointed  out  a  place  for  us  to  encamp,  near  his 
own  lodge,  and  made  known  our  purpose  in  visiting  the  village.  In  a  very 
short  time  we  purchased  eight  horses,  for  which  we  gave  in  exchange 
blankets,  red  and  blue  cloth,  beads,  knives,  and  tobacco,  and  the  usual  other 
articles  of  Indian  traffic.    We  obtained  from  them  also  a  considerable  quan- 


[1943. 
iller  in  such  a 

iig  for  several 
on  its  luxuri- 
le  hard  travel 
ibia.  At  the 
n  open  candn, 
the  road  here 
•  sunset ;  but, 
id  our  march 
ved  at  a  point 
which  was  so 
not  reach  the 

ter  and  grass; 
1  a  very  steep, 
as  late  before 
ch  were  very 
1  we  sat  down 
sented  an  ani- 
large  party  of 
dy  in  motion, 
ver  swept  off 
diren'.y  on. 
iians,  who  in- 
iust  come  into 

[id  been  hunt- 
pportunity  of 
from  them  a 
heir  encamp- 

)f  the  village, 
eed,  followed 
;y  after  party 
ed  us,  all  the 
,  which  came 
es,  and  bows 
ssed  for  war, 
nearly  to  the 
They  had 
r  flag,  which, 
being  usually 
5,  when  they 
for  a  body  of 
itement;  and 
ed  us  to  their 
amp,  near  his 
J.  [n  a  very 
in  exchange 
e  usual  other 
lerable  quan- 


|fl43.]  CAI'T.   PREMONTM  NAHRATIVE.  Ufi 

dtf  of  berries  of  different  kinds,  anions^  which  service  berries  were  the  most 

liabundant;  and  several  Uiiids  of  lools  and  seeds,  which  W(!  could  eat  with 

Ipleasijre,  as  any  kind  of  vegetable  food  was  uratifyii.g  to  us.  I  ate  here,  for 

|'^,lhe  first  time,  the  konyah,ov  tobacco  rout,  {ruteriutui  edulis,)  the  principal 

fledible  root  among  the  Indians  who  inhabit  the  upper  waters  of  the  streams 

Konihe  western  side  of  the  mountains.   It  has  a  very  strong  and  remarkably 

peculiar  taste  and  odor,  which  I  can  compare  to  no  other  vegctahio  that  I 

am  acquainted  with,  and  which  to  some  i)ersons  is  extremely  ofl'ensive.  It 

was  characterized  by  Mr.  Preuss  as  the     ost  horrid  food  he  had  ever  put  in 

his  mouth  ;  and  when,  in  the  evening,  one  of  the  chiefs  sent  his  wife  to  me 

with  a  portion  which  she  had  prepared  as  a  delicacy  to  regale  us,  the  odor 

immediately  drove  him  out  of  the  lodge;  and  frecpiently  afterwards  lie  used 

to  beg  that  when  those  who  liked  it  had  taken  what  they  desired,  it  might 

be  sent  away.     To  others,  however,  the  taste  -s  rather  an  agreeable  one, 

and  I  was  afterwards  always  glad  wJien  it  (on^'cd  an  addition  to  our  scanty 

meals.     It  is  full  of  nutriment ;  and  in  its  iniprepared  state  is  said  by  the 

Indians  to  have  very  strong  poisonous  qnnlities,  of  which  it  is  deprived  by 

a  peculiar  process,  being  baked  in  the  ground  for  about  two  days. 

The  morning  of  the  24th  was  disagreeably  cool,  with  an  easterly  wind 
and  very  smoky  weather.  We  made  a  late  start  from  the  village,  and,  re- 
gaining the  road,  (on  whic'i,  during  all  the  day,  were  scattered  the  emigrant 
wagons,)  we  continued  on  down  the  valley  of  the  river,  bordered  by  high 
and  mountainous  hills,  on  which  fires  are  seen  at  the  summit.  The  soil 
appears  generally  good,  although,  with  the  grasses,  many  of  the  plants  are 
dried  up,  probably  on  account  of  the  great  heat  and  want  of  rain.  The 
common  blue  flax  of  cultivation,  now  almost  entirely  in  seed — only  a  scat- 
tered flower  here  and  there  remaining — is  the  most  characteristic  plant  of 
the  Bear  river  valley.  When  we  encamped  at  night  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  river,  it  was  growing  as  in  a  sown  field.  We  had  travelled  during  the 
day  22  miles,  encamping  in  latitude  (by  observation)  42°  36'  56",  chrono- 
metric  longitude  111°  42'  05". 

In  our  neighborhood,  the  mountains  appeared  extremely  rugged,  giving 
still  greater  value  to  this  beautiful  natural  pass. 

August  25. — This  was  a  cloudless  but  smoky  autumn  morning,  with  a 
cold  wind  from  the  SE.,  and  a  temperature  of  45°  at  si.nrise.  In  a  few 
miles  I  noticed,  where  a  little  stream  crossed  the  road,fiagments  of  scona/- 
td  basalt  scattered  about — the  first  volcanic  rock  wc  had  seen,  and  which 
now  became  a  characteristic  rock  along  our  future  road.  In  about  six 
miles  travel  from  our  encampment,  we  reached  one  of  the  points  in  our 
journey  to  which  we  had  always  looked  forward  with  great  interest — the 
famous  Beer  springs.  The  place  in  which  they  are  situated  is  a  basin 
of  mineral  waters  enclosed  by  the  mountains,  which  sweep  around  a. 
circular  bend  of  Bear  river,  here  at  its  most  northern  point,  and  which 
from  a  northern,  in  the  course  of  a  few  miles  acquires  a  southern  direc- 
tion towards  the  Great  Salt  lake.  A  pretty  little  stream  of  clear 
water  enters  the  upper  part  of  the  basin  from  an  open  valley  in  the  moun- 
tains, and,  passing  through  the  bottom,  discharges  into  Bear  river.  Cross- 
ing this  stream,  we  descended  a  mile  below,  and  made  our  encamp- 
ment in  a  grove  of  cedar  immediately  at  the  Beer  springs,  which,  on  ac- 
count of  the  effervescing  gas  and  acid  taste,  have  received  their  name  from 
the  voyageurs  and  trappers  of  the  country,  who,  in  the  midst  of  their  rude 


■■'>* ' 


.Ji' 


■;■»- 


>; 


'■  \'  ■ 


^'■i  •;;. 


120 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


and  hard  lives,  arc  fond  of  fiiidiiig  some  fancied  resemblance  to  the  luxQ* 
lies  they  ruiuly  have  the  fortune  to  enjoy.  -^   v 

Although  somewhat  disappointed  in  the  expectations  which  various  der! 
scriptions  had  led  mc  to  form  of  unusual  beauty  of  situation  and  scbnery^j 
I  found  it  altogether  a  place  of  very  great  interest;  and  a  traveller  for  th9 
first  tune  in  a  volcanic  region  remains  in  a  constant  excitement,  and  at 
every  step  is  arrested  by  something  remarkable  and  u'nv.  There  is  a  con- 
fusion of  interesting  objects  gathered  together  in  a  small  space.  Around 
the  place  of  encampment  the  Beer  springs  were  numerous ;  but,  as  far  as 
we  could  ascertain,  were  entirely  confined  to  that  locality  in  the  bottom.  In 
the  bed  of  the  river,  in  front,  for  a  space  of  several  hundred  yards,  they 
were  very  abundant ;  the  ofTervcscing  gas  rising  up  and  agitating  the  water 
in  countless  bubbling  columns.  In  the  vicinity  round  about  were  numerous 
springs  of  au  entirely  different  and  equally  marked  mineral  character.  In  a 
rather  picturesque  spot,  about  1,300  yards  below  our  encampment,  and  im- 
mediately on  the  river  bank,  is  the  most  remarkable  spring  of  the  place. 
In  an  opening  on  the  rock,  a  white  colunni  of  scattered  water  is  thrown  up, 
in  form  like  ajei'd'eau,  to  a  variable  height  of  about  three  feet,  and,  though 
it  is  maintained  in  a  constant  supply,  its  greatest  height  is  attained  only  at 
regular  intervals,  according  to  the  action  of  the  force  below.  It  is  accom- 
panied by  a  subterranean  noise,  wliich,  together  with  the  motion  of  the 
water,  makes  very  much  the  impression  of  a  steamboat  in  motion  ;  and, 
without  knowing  that  it  had  been  already  previously  so  called,  we  gave  to 
it  the  name  of  the  Steamboat  spring.  The  rock  throu2;h  which  it  is  forced 
is  slightly  raised  in  a  convex  manner,  and  gathered  at  the  opening  into  an 
urn-mouiJied  form,  and  is  evidently  formed  by  continued  deposition  from 
the  water,  and  colored  bright  red  by  oxide  of  iron.  An  analysis  of  this 
deposited  rock,  which  I  subjoin,  will  give  you  some  idea  of  the  properties 
of  the  water,  which,  with  the  exception  of  the  Beer  springs,  is  the  mineral 
water  of  the  place.*  It  is  a  hot  spring,  and  the  water  has  a  pungent  and 
disagreeable  metallic  taste,  leaving  a  burning  effect  on  the  tongue.  Within 
perhaps  two  yards  of  the  Jet-d'eau  is  a  small  hole  of  about  an  inch  in  diam- 
eter, through  which,  at  regular  intervals,  escapes  a  blast  of  hot  air  with  a 
light  wreath  of  smoke,  accompanied  by  a  regular  noise.  This  hole  had 
been  noticed  by  Doctor  Wislizenus,  a  gentleman  who  several  years  since 
passed  by  this  place,  and  who  remarked,  with  very  nice  observation,  that 
smelling  the  gas  which  issued  from  the  orifice  produced  a  sensation  of  gid- 
diness and  nausea.  Mr.  Preuss  and  myself  repeated  the  observation,  and 
were  so  well  satisfied  with  its  correctness,  that  we  did  not  find  it  pleasant  to 
continue  the  experiment,  as  the  sensation  of  giddiness  which  it  produced 
was  certainly  strong  and  decided.  A  huge  emigrant  wagon,  with  a  large 
and  diversified  family,  had  overtaken  us  and  halted  to  noon  at  our  encamp- 
ment; and,  while  we  were  sitting  at  the  spring,  a  band  of  boys  and  girls, 


AXi.LT8IS. 


.it, 


Carbonate  of  lime 
Carbonate  of  magnesia 
Oxide  of  iron 
Silica  "^ 

Alumina  > 

Water  and  lose  j 


92.55 
0.42 
1.05 

5.98 


100.00 


.1 ' 
1. 


>»if> 


e  to  the  luxiKJ 

;h  various  dor 
1  and  scfenery^ 
iveller  for  thQ 
nmeiit,  and^  at. 
^Iiere  is  a  con. 
acG.     Around 
but,  as  far  as 
lie  bottom,  in 
L>d  yards,  they 
ting  the  water 
ere  numerous 
haracter.  In  a 
ment,  and  im- 
j  of  the  place, 
is  thrown  up, 
!t,  and,  though 
tained  only  at 
It  is  accom- 
iiiotiou  of  the 
motion  ;  and, 
3d,  we  gave  to 
lich  it  is  lorced 
pening  into  an 
eposition  from 
nalysis  of  this 
the  properties 
is  tiie  mineral 
L  pungent  and 
ingue.  Within 
inch  in  diam- 
lot  air  with  a 
liis  hole  had 
:al  years  since 
ervation,  that 
isation  of  gid- 
ervation,  and 
it  pleasant  to 
h  it  produced 
with  a  large 
our  encamp- 
oys  and  girls, 


92.55 
0.42 
1.05 

5.98 


100.00 


121 


II543.3  CAPT.  FKEMONTS  NARRATIVE. 

ith  two  or  three  young  men,  came  ?ip,  one  of  whom  I  asked  to  stoop 
urn  and  smell  the  gas,  desirous  to  satisfy  myself  further  of  its  ctfects.  But 
lia  natural  caution  had  been  awakened  by  the  singular  and  suspicious 
;ures  of  the  place,  and  ho  declined  my  proposal  decidedly,  and  with  a 
ifew  indistinct  remarks  about  the  devil,  whom  he  seemed  to  consider  the 
tnius  loci.     The  ceaseless  motion  and  the  play  of  the  fountain,  the  red 
ck,  and  the  green  trees  near,  make  this  a  picturesque  spot. 
A  short  distance  above  the  spring,  and  near  the  foot  of  the  same  spur,  is  a 
very  remarkable  yellow-colored  rock,  soft  and  friable,  consisting  princii)ally 
of  carbonate  of  lime  and  oxide  of  iron,  of  regular  structure,  which  is  prob- 
ably a  fossil  coral.     The  rocky  bank  along  the  shore  between  the  Steam- 
\  boat  spring  and  our  eticampnient,  along  which  is  dispersed  the  water  from 
the  hills,  is  composed  entirely  of  strata  of  a  calcareous  hifa,  with  the  re- 
I  mains  of  moss  and  reed-like  grus.ses,  which  is  probably  the  formation  of 
|s|''.ings.  T\\G  Beer  or  Soda  springs,\v\\'\c\\  have  given  name  to  this  locality, 
are  agreeable,  but  less  highly  tiavored  than  the  Boiling  springs  at  the  foot 
;  of  Pike's  peak,  which  are  of  the  same  character.     They  are  very  numerous, 
and  half  hidden  by  tufts  of  grass,  which  we  amused  ourselves  in  removing 
and  searching  about  for  more  highly  impregnated  springs.     They  are  some 
of  them  deep,  and  of  various  sizes — sometimes  several  yards  in  diameter, 
and  kept  in  constant  motion  by  columns  of  escaping  gas.    By  analysis,  one 
quart  of  the  water  contains  as  follows  : 

Sulphate  of  magnesia  -  -  -  .  . 

.  Sulphate  of  lime       .---... 

Carbo.ate  of  lime     ------ 

Carbonate  of  magnesia        -  .  -  -  - 

Chloride  of  calcium  -  -  -  .  - 

■Chloride  of  magnesium        -  -  -  -         .   - 

Chloride  of  sodium  -  -  -  -  - 

V'egetable  extractive  matter,  &cc.      -  -  -  - 


The  carbonic  acid,  originally  contained  in  the  water,  had  mauily  escaped 
|before  it  was  subjected  to  analysis ;  and  it  was  not,  therefore,  taken  into 
I  consideration. 

1  In  the  afternoon  I  wandered  about  among  the  cedars,  which  occupy  the 
greater  part  of  the  bottom  towards  the  mountains.  The  soil  here  has  a  dry 
land  calcined  appearance;  in  some  places,  the  open  giounds  are  covered 
with  saline  efilorescences,  and  there  are  a  number  of  regularly  shaped  and 
I  very  remarkable  hills,  which  are  formed  of  a  succession  of  convex  strata 
that  have  been  dej'osited  by  the  waters  of  extinct  springs,  the  orifices  of 
which  are  found  on  their  summits,  some  of  them  having  the  form  of  fun- 
nel-shaped cones.  Others  of  these  remarkably  shaped  hills  are  of  a  red- 
Icolored  earth,  entirely  bare,  and  composed  principally  of  carbonate  of  lime, 
nvith  oxide  of  iron,  formed  in  the  same  manner.  Walking  near  one  of 
Ithem,  on  the  summit  of  which  the  springs  were  dry,  my  attention  was  at- 
itracted  by  an  underground  noise,  around  which  I  circled  repeatedly,  until 
il  found  the  spot  from  beneath  which  it  came ;  and,  removing  the  red  earth, 
Idiscovered  a  hidden  spring,  which  was  boiling  up  from  below,  with  the 
jsame  disagreeable  metallic  taste  as  the  Steamboat  spring.     Continuing  up 


Grains. 

12.10 

■•','•?; 

2.12 

>■;; 

3.86 

■.-' 

3.22 

w 

1.33 

':  f 

1.12 

f  '  ■ 

2.24 

v'V 

0.85 

^■'    / 

26.84 

V-' «    - 
•■■;''■>■■■ 


^1  ■ 


■<^  V. 


I*;:- 


1  "  , 


i'  ,"  ■) 

.      i 


1 1  ■'■'  ■"' 


?f.'.::^ 


f  ;:itv    ';,.  i^r 


.*>.  • 


lot 


CAPT.  FUEMONT'rt  NARRATIVE. 


[1841 


the  ljottoiii,aii(]  crossing  the  little  stream  wliich  has  hecn  already  mentioned] 
I  visited  several  reinarkablo  red  and  whil>j  liills,  which  had  attracted  ni' 
attention  I'rom  the  road  m  the  inorniiii^.  These  are  immediately  upon  thii 
stream,  and,  like  those  already  mentioned,  are  formed  by  the  deposition  oj 
successive  strata  from  the  springs.  On  their  summits,  tlie  orifices  throu 
which  the  waters  had  been  discharged  were  so  large  that  they  resemble 
miniature  craters,  being  some  of  them  several  (eet  in  diameter,circular,  am 
regularly  formed  as  if  by  art.  At  a  former  time,  when  these  dried-up  fotin 
tains  were  all  in  motion,  they  must  have  made  a  beautiful  display  on  a 
grand  scale  ;  and  nearly  all  this  basin  appears  to  me  to  have  been  formed 
under  their  action,  and  should  be  called  the  place  of  fountains.  At  the 
foot  of  one  of  these  hills,  or  rather  on  its  side  near  the  base,  are  several  ot 
these  small  limestone  columns,  about  one  foot  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and 
tapering  upwards  to  a  height  of  three  or  four  feet ;  and  on  the  summit  the 
water  is  boiling  up  and  bubbling  over,  constantly  adding  to  the  height  oi 
the  little  obelisks.  In  some,  the  water  only  boils  up,  no  longer  overflowing, 
and  has  here  the  same  taste  as  at  the  Steamboat  spring.  'I'he  observer  will 
remark  a  gradual  subsidence  in  the  water,  which  formerly  supplied  the 
fountains,  as  on  all  the  summits  of  the  hills  the  springs  are  now  dry,  and 
are  found  only  low  down  upon  their  sides,  or  on  the  surrounding  plain. 

A  little  higlier  up  the  creek,  its  banks  are  formed  by  strata  of  a  very 
heavy  and  hard  scoriaceous  basalt,  having  a  bright  metallic  lustre  when 
broken.  The  mountains  overlooking  the  plain  are  of  an  entirely  differeiii 
geological  character.  Continuing  on,  I  walked  to  the  summit  of  one  ot 
them,  where  the  principal  rock  was  a  granular  quartz.  Descending  the 
mountains,  and  returning  towards  the  camp  along  the  base  of  the  ridge 
which  skirts  the  plain,  I  found  at  the  loot  of  a  mountain  spur,  and  issuing 
from  a  compact  rock  of  a  dark-blue  fiolor,  a  great  number  of  springs  hav- 
ing the  same  pungent  and  disagreeably  metallic  taste  already  mentioned, 
the  water  of  which  was  collected  into  a  very  remarkable  basin,  whose  sin 
gularity,  perhaps,  made  it  appear  to  me  very  beautiful.  It  is  large- 
perhaps  fifty  yards  in  circumference;  and  in  it  the  water  is  contained  ai 
an  elevation  of  several  feet  above  the  surrounding  ground  by  a  wall  of  cal 
careous  tufa,  composed  principally  of  the  remains  of  mosses,  three  or  four 
and  sometimes  ten  feet  high.  The  water  within  is  very  clear  and  pure 
and  three  or  four  feet  deep,  where  it  could  be  conveniently  measured  neat 
the  wall;  and,  at  a  considerably  lower  level,  is  another  pond  or  basin  oi 
very  clear  water,  and  apparently  of  considerable  depth,  from  the  bottom  oi 
which  the  gas  was  escaping  in  bubbling  columns  at  many  places.  This 
water  was  collected  into  a  small  stream,  which,  in  a  few  hundred  yards, 
sank  under  ground,  reappearing  among  the  rocks  between  the  two  great 
springs  near  the  river,  which  it  entered  by  a  little  fall. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  I  sat  out  on  my  return  to  the  camp,  and,  crossing 
in  the  way  a  large  field  of  a  salt  that  was  several  inches  deep,  found  on  my 
arrival  that  our  emigrant  friends,  who  had  been  encamped  in  company  with 
us,  had  resumed  their  journey,  and  the  road  had  again  assumed  its  solitary 
character.  The  temperature  of  the  largest  of  the  Beer  springs  at  our  en 
campment  was  G5°  at  sunset,  that  of  the  air  being  62.5°.  Our  barometric 
observation  gave  5,840  feet  for  the  elevation  above  the  gulf,  being  about  5O0 
feet  lower  than  the  Boiling  springs,  which  are  of  a  similar  nature,  at  the  foot 
of  Pike's  peak.  The  astronomical  observations  gave  for  our  latitude  42^ 
39'  57";  and  111°  46'  00"  for  the  longitude.     The  night  was  very  still  and 


[18iJ 


»8.] 


(APT.    I'KKMO.NT^  NAIUJATIM: 


193 


idy  mentionei 

1  attracted  rn' 
lately  upon  tl 
e  deposition 
>rifices  tlirou 
llicy  resemhl© 
)r,  circular,  ani 
dried-up  foiin 
il  display  on  a 
e  been  formed 
fains.     At  tlif; 
,  are  several  ot 


udless,  and  I  sat  up  for  an  ohsc.'rvatioii  of  ilir  first  satellite  of  Jupiter, 

le  emersion  dI'  which  took  ]>l;ice  about  rni(liiii,'ht ;  but  Irll  asleep  at  the 

lescope,  uwakini,'  just  a  io.w  minutes  after  iIk;  appLiarancc  of  the  star. 

The  morning  of  the  iiiiih  was  calm,  au'J   the  sky  without  clouds,  but 

oky;  and  the  tcniperuture  at  sunrise  28.5'\     At  tiie  same  time,  the  tem- 

ralure  of  the  large  IJeer  spring,  where  we  were  encamped,  was  5G°;  that 

f  the  Steamboat  sprinjT  m7°;  and  that  of  the  steam  hole,  near  it,  81.5°.     In 

he  course  of  the  morning,  the  last  wagons  of  the  emigration  passed  by, 

[and  we  were  again  left  in  our  |)laoe,  in  the  rear. 

Remaining  in  camp  until  nearly  11  o'clock,  we  travelled  a  short  distance 
down  the  river,  and  halted  to  noon  on  the  bank,  at  a  point  where  the  road 
.'quits  the  valley  of  licar  river,  and,  crossing  a  ritlge  which  divides  the  Great 
t  the  base,  andiiBasin  from  the  Pacific  waters,  reaches  Fort  Hull,  by  way  of  the  Portneuf 
he  summit  theljriver,  in  a  distance  of  probably  fifty  miles,  or  two  and  a  half  days' journey 
o  the  height  oil  for  wagons.  An  examination  of  the  great  lake  which  is  the  outlet  of  this 
er  overflowing,!  river,  and  the  principal  feature  of  geographical  interest  in  the  basin,  was 
le  observer  willl  one  of  the  main  objects  contemplated  in  the  general  plan  of  our  ."survc",  and 
y  supplied  tliel  I  accordingly  determined  at  this  place  to  leave  the  road,  and,  after  waving 
3  now  dry,  anjl  completed  a  reconnoissance  of  the  lake,  regain  it  sub.sequently  at  Fort  Hall, 
iding  plain.  I  But  our  little  stock  of  provisions  had  again  become  extremely  low  ;  we  had 
rata  of  a  veryl  only  dried  meat  suflicient  for  one  meal,  and  our  supply  of  flour  and  other 
lie  lustre  wheiil  .comforts  was  entirely  exhausted.  I  therefore  immediately  despatched  one 
itirely  difl'erenil  of  the  party,  Henry  Lee,  with  a  note  to  Carson,  at  Fort  Hall,  directing 
mnit  of  one  oil  him  to  load  a  pack  horse  with  whatever  could  be  obtained  there  in  the 
Descending  the!  way  of  provisions,  and  endeavor  to  overtake  me  on  the  river.  In  the 
e  of  the  ridgel  mean  time,  we  had  picked  up  along  the  road  two  tolerably  well-grown 
ur,  and  issuinsl  calves,  which  would  have  become  food  for  wolves,  and  which  had  proba- 
of  springs  havj  ibly  been  left  by  some  of  the  earlier  emigrants,  none  of  those  we  had  met 
idy  mentioned.!  thaving  made  any  claim  to  them;  and  on  these  I  mainly  relied  for  support 
.sin,  whose  sin-|  ^during  our  circuit  to  the  lake. 

,    In  sweeping  around  the  point  of  the  mountain  which  runs  down  into  the 
.bend,  the  river  here  passes  between  perpendicular  walls  of  basalt,  which 
jalways  fix  the  attention,  from  the  regular  form  in  which  it  occurs,  and  its 
jperfect  distinctness  from  the  surrounding  rocks  among  which  it  has  been 
placed.     The  mountain,  which  is  rugged  and  steep,  and,  by  our  measure- 
jment,  1,400  feet  above  the  river  directly  opposite  the  place  of  our  halt,  is 
jcalled  the  Sheep  rock — probably  because  a  flock  of  the  common  mountain 
jsheep  (ovis  montana)  had  been  seen  on  the  craggy  point. 
I    As  we  were  about  resuming  our  march  in  the  afternoon,  I  was  attracted 
iby  the  singular  appearance  of  an  isolated  hill  with  a  concave  summit,  in 
|the  plain,  about  two  miles  from  the  river,  and  turned  ofl*  towards  it,  while 
jthe  camp  proceeded  on  its  way  to  the  southward  in  search  of  the  lake.     I 
found  the  thin  and  stony  soil  of  the  plain  entirely  underlaid  by  the  basalt 
which  forms  the  river  walls;  and  when  I  reached  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Ihi!',  the  surface  of  the  plain  was  rent  into  frequent  fissures  and  chasms  of 
jthe  same  scoriated  volcanic  rock,  from  forty  to  sixty  feet  deep,  but  which 
there  was  not  sufficient  light  to  penetrate  entirely,  and  which  I  had  not 
time  to  descend.     Arrived  at  the  summit  of  the  hill,  I  found  that  it  termi- 
nated in  a  very  perfect  crater,  of  an  oval,  or  nearly  circular  form,  360 
paces  in  circumference,  and  60  feet  at  the  greatest  depth.     The  walls, 
which  were  perfectly  vertical,  and  disposed  like  masonry  in  a  very  regular 
manner,  were  composed  of  a  brown-colored  scoriaceous  lava,  evidently 


It  is  large- 
is  contained  ai 
y  a  wall  of  cal- 

three  or  four, 
ilear  and  pure, 
measured  neat 
nd  or  basin  o! 
1  the  bottom  oi 

places.  This 
hundred  yards, 
the  two  great 

),  and,  crossing 
p,  found  on  my 
1  company  with 
ned  its  solitary 
ings  at  our  en- 
Dur  barometric 
eing  about  5O0 
ture,  at  the  fool 
jr  latitude  42' 
s  very  still  and 


^A 


mt 


124 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[H 


!l    ■! 


I       f'l  •     r, 


.,,,    4 


l-nf  ; 


■  ■■■■  A*i 


the  production  of  a  modorn  volcano,  aiid  linviiig  all  the  appoarance  of  tl 
lighter  scoriaceous  lavras  of  Moiiiil  yEtiia,  Vesuvius,  and  other  volcan 
The  faces  of  the  walls  were  ie(ld(!iio(l  and  gltizod  hy  tho  fire,  in  which  th« 
had  been  melted,  and   which  had  left  them  coniurled  and  twisted  by  ii 
violent  action. 

Our  route  during  the  afternoon  was  a  little  rough,  being  (in  lUv.  directioi 
we  had  taken)  over  a  volcanic  plain,  where  our  progress  was  sometime 
obstructed  by  fissures,  and  hhick  ix'ds  composed  of  tragments  of  the  rock, 
On  both  sides,  the  mountains  appeared  very  broken,  but  tolerably  we 
timbered. 

Jiugust  aC. — Crossing  a  point  of  ridge  which  makes  in  to  the  river,  we 
fell  upon  it  again  before  simst't,  and  encamped  on  the  right  bank,  opposite 
to  the  encampment  of  three  lodges  of  Snake  Indians.  They  visited  113 
during  the  evening,  and  we  obtained  from  them  a  small  quantity  of  root' 
of  different  kinds,  in  exchange  for  goods.  Among  them  was  a  sweet  rooi 
of  very  pleasant  flavor,  having  somewhat  the  taj>te  of  |)reservL'd  quince, 
My  endeavors  to  become  acquainted  with  the  plants  which  furnish  to  the 
Indians  a  portion  of  their  support  were  only  gradually  suc^essl'ul,  and  af- 
ter long  and  persevering  attention;  and  oven  after  obtaining,  I  did  not  sue- 
cecd  in  preserving  them  until  they  could  be  satisfactorily  determined.  In 
this  portion  of  the  journey,  I  found  this  particular  root  cut  up  into  such 
small  pieces,  that  it  was  only  to  be  identified  by  its  taste,  when  the  bulb 
was  met  with  in  perfect  form  among  the  Indians  lower  down  on  the  Co- 
lumbia, among  whom  it  is  the  highly  celebrated  kamiis.  It  was  long  af- 
terwards, on  our  return  through  Upper  California,  that  I  found  the  plan; 
itself  in  bloom,  which  I  suppo.^ed  to  furnish  the  kamds  root,  {camassia  es 
cuknta.)  The  root  diet  had  a  rather  mournful  effect  at  the  conmience- 
ment,  and  one  of  the  calves  was  killed  this  evening  for  food.  The  animals 
fared  well  on  rushes. 

August  27. — The  morning  was  cloudy,  with  appearance  of  rain,  and 
the  thermometer  at  sunrise  at  29°.     Making  an  unusually  early  start,  we 
crossed  the  river  at  a  good  ford  ;  and,  following  for  about  three  hours  a  trail 
which  led  along  the  bottom,  we  entered  a  labyrinth  of  hills  below  the  main 
ridge,  and  halted  to  noon  in  the  ravine  of  a  pretty  little  stream,  timbered 
with  Cottonwood  of  a  large  size,  ashleaved  maple,  with  cherry  and  other 
shrubby  trees.     The  hazy  weather,  which  had  prevented  any  very  extended 
views  since  entering  the  Green  river  valley,  began  now  to  disappear.   There 
was  a  sHght  ram  in  the  earlier  part  of  the  day,  and  at  noon,  when  the  ther 
mometer  had  risen  to  79.5°,  we  had  a  bright  sun,  with  blue  sky  and  scat 
tered  cumuli.     According  to  the  barometer,  our  halt  here  among  the  hills 
was  at  an  elevation  of  5,320  feet.     Crossing  a  dividing  ridge  in  the  after- 
noon, we  followed  down  another  little  Bear  river  tributary,  to  the  point 
where  it  emerged  on  an  open  green  fiat  among  the  hills,  timbered  wiili 
groves,  and  bordered  with  cane  thickets,  but  without  water.     A  pretty  little 
rivulet,  coming  out  of  the  hill  side,  and  overliung  by  tall  flowering  plants 
of  a  species  I  had  not  hitherto  seen,  furnished  us  with  a  good  camping 
place.    The  evening  was  cloudy,  tlie  temperature  at  sunset  69°,  and  the  ele- 
vation 5,140  feet.    Among  the  plants  occurring  along  the  Hue  of  road  dur 
ing  the  day,  epinettes  des  prairies  (grindelia  squarrosa)  was  in  considera 
ble  abundance,  and  is  among  the  very  few  plants  remaining  in  bloom— 
the  whole  country  having  now  an  autumnal  appearance,  in  the  crisped  and 


0  (lio  river,  we 
baiiU,  opposite 
'hey  visited  us 
uuitiiy  of  root' 
IS  ;i  sweet  rooi 
jserved  quince, 

1  I'liriiisli  to  tlie 
cressrul,  and  af- 
^,  I  did  not  sue- 
eteruiiiied.  In 
It  up  into  suck 
when  the  bulb 
awn  on  the  Co- 
It  was  long  at" 
ouud  the  plain 
,  {camassia  es- 
the  connnence- 
.     The  animals 


;e  of  rain,  and 
early  start,  we 
ee  hours  a  trail 
aelow  the  main 
ream,  timbered 
erry  and  other 
very  extended 
appear.   There 
when  the  ther 
sky  and  scat 
mong  the  hills 
e  in  the  after- 
y,  to  the  point 
timbered  wiiii 
A  pretty  little 
owe  ring  plants 
good  camping 
9°,  and  the  ele- 
le  of  road  dur- 
s  in  considera- 
ig  in  bloom— 
the  crisped  and 


18. J  CA*'V    FRKMONT'S  NAUUATIVK.  125 

Io\v  plantR,  and  driod-up  jrapses.     Many  cranes  were  seen  during  tlio 
,  with  a  few  antelope,  very  shy  and  wild. 
l^ugfi'St  ','H. — During  tlie  night  we  hud  a  thunder  storm,  with  moderate 
In,  which  has  made  the  nir  this  morning  very  clear,  ilie  thermometer 
ijng  at  /J5".     Leaving  our  encampment  at  the  Canr  spring;,  and  quilting 
trail  on  which  wo  had  been  travelling,  and  whicli  would  probably  have 
"orded  us  a  good  road  to  the  lake,  we  crossed  some  very  deep  ravines,  and, 
about  an  liour's  travellitig,  again  reached  the  river.     We  were  now  in  a 
alley  five  or  six  miles  wide,  between  mountain  ranges,  which,  about  thirty 
iles  below,  appeared  to  close  up  and  tern  iiiate  the  valley,  leaving  for  the 
Inver  only  a  very  narrow  ]iass,  or  canon,  behind  which  we  imagined  that 
we  should  find  the  broad  waters  of  the  lake.     We  made  the  usual  halt  at 
le  mouth  of  a  small  clear  stream,  having  a  slightly  mineral  taste,  (perhaps 
f  salt,)  ^,7G0  feet  above  the  gulf.     In  the  afternoon  we  (limbed  a  very 
teep  sandy  hill  ;  and,  after  a  slow  and  winding  day's  march  of  27  miles, 
iicainped  at  a  slough  on  the  river.     There  were  great  quantities  of  geese 
nd  ducks,  of  which  only  a  few  were  shot;  the   Indians  having  probably 
jliiade  them  very  wild.  The  men  employed  thcmselve-  in  fishing,  but  caught 
nothing.     A  skunk,  {inephitis  Jimcricamt,)  which  was  killed  in  the  alter- 
jioon,  made  a  supper  for  one  of  the  messes.     The  river  is  bordered  occa- 
sionally with  fields  of  cane,  which  we  regarded  as  an  indication  of  our 
ppproach  to  a  lake  country.     We  had  frequeiit  .showers  of  rain  during  the 
♦light,  with  thunder. 

.  dugust  29. — The  thermometer  at  sunrise  was  54°,  with  air  from  the 
jNW.,  and  dark  rainy  clouds  moving  on  the  horizon  ;  rain  squalls  and 
|)right  sunshine  by  intervals.  I  rode  ahead  with  liasil  to  explore  the  coun- 
try, and,  continuing  about  three  miles  along  the  river,  turned  directly  off  on 
ti  trail  running  towards  three  marked  gaps  in  the  bordering  range,  where 
the  mountains  appeared  cut  through  to  their  bases,  towards  which  the  river 
blain  rose  gradually.  Putting  our  horses  into  a  gallop  on  some  fresh  tracks 
Vliich  si  10 wed  very  plainly  in  the  wet  path,  we  came  suddenly  upon  a 
pniall  party  of  Shosbonee  Indians,  who  had  fallen  hito  the  trail  from  the 
iiorth.  We  could  only  communicate  by  signs;  but  they  made  us  under- 
stand that  the  road  through  the  chain  was  a  very  excellent  one,  leading 
nto  a  broad  valley  which  ran  to  the  southward.  We  halted  to  noon  at 
vhat  may  be  called  the  gate  of  the  pass;  on  either  side  of  which  were 
uge  moLMtains  of  rock,  between  which  stole  a  little  pure  water  stream, 
,vith  a  margin  just  sufficiently  large  for  our  passage.  From  the  river,  the 
lain  had  gradually  risen  to  an  altitude  of  5,500  feet,  and,  by  meridian  ob- 
ervation,  the  latitude  of  the  entrance  was  42°. 

In  the  interval  of  our  usual  halt,  several  of  us  wandered  along  up  the 
^tream  to  examine  the  pass  more  at  leisure.     Within  the  gate,  the  rocks 
feceded  a  little  back,  leaving  a  very  narrow,  but  most  beautiful  valley, 
hrough  which  the  little  stream  wound  its  way,  hidden  by  diflferent  kinds 
f  trees  and  shrubs — aspen,  maple,  willow,  cherry,  and  elder  ;  a  fine  ver- 
nre  of  smooth  short  grass  spread  over  the  remaining  space  to  the  bare 
sides  of  the  rocky  walls.  These  were  of  a  blue  limestone,  which  constitutes 
he  mountain  here  ;  and  opening  directly  on  the  grassy  bottom  were  sev- 
eral curious  caves,  which  appeared  to  be  inhabited  by  root  diggers.  On  one 
side  was  gathered  a  heap  of  leaves  for  a  bed,  and  they  were,  dry,  open, 
and  pleasant.     On  the  roofs  of  the  caves  I  remarked  bituminous  exuda- 
tions from  the  rock. 


;  ',  i 


■^i 


.?.<:=  V 


mmmt 


186 


CAl'T.  KUKMOiNTS  NAKRATIVK. 


i-f 


•"*  c* 


■f!'^'"'.  "' 


'I- 


The  trail  wns  an  cxcellpril  otu!  for  park  horses;  but,  as  it  flometi 
crossed  a  sholviii^  point,  to  avoid  tlu)  slirid)hery  wv.  wenj  ohlii^ed  in  seve 
places  lo  open  a  road  lor  the  carriage  ihron^di  llie  wood.  A  piaw  on  hon 
f»ack,  accompanied  by  five  or  six  dogs,  entered  tin;  pass  in  the  atternoon 
hnt  was  too  nnich  terrified  at  fiiuhng  herself  in  such  nnexpceled  compan< 
to  make  any  paus<!  for  eonvcrsalion,  and  linrried  olf  atai,'ood  pace — hein, 
of  course,  no  further  disti"  bed  ihan  by  an  aceeleratini;  shout.  Sho  w; 
well  and  showily  dressed,  and  was  probably  going  to  a  village,  riiicampe 
somewhere  lu'ar,  and  evidenlly  did  not  belong  to  the  tribe  o{' root  diifffrni, 
Wo  had  now  enten'd  a  count ry  inhabited  by  th(;se  people  ;  and  as  iu  tlie| 
course  of  our  voyage;  we  shall  freipienlly  meet  with  them  in  various  stagn 
of  existence,  it  will  be  well  to  inform  you  that,  .scattered  over  the  greai 
region  west  of  the  Rocky  moinitains,  and  south  of  the  (Irc-at  Snako  river, 
are  numerous  Indians  whose  subsistence;  is  almost  solely  derived  from  rooii 
and  seeds,  and  such  small  animals  as  chance  and  great  i.,'ood  fortune  sonic. 
times  bring  within  their  reach.  Tiiey  are  miserably  j)oor,  armed  only  will, 
bows  and  arrows,  or  clubs  ;  and,  as  the  coimtry  liiey  inhabit  is  almosi 
destitute  of  game,  thcfy  hav(^  no  means  of  obtaining  belter  arms.  In  the 
northern  pan  of  t)ie  region  just  tnentioued,  tluty  live  generally  in  solitary 
families;  and  farther  lo  the  south,  tlu'y  are  gathered  togtilher  in  villag(i.\ 
Tho.se  who  live  together  iu  villages,  strengthened  by  association,  arc  in 
exclusive  possession  ol  the  more  genial  and  richer  jjarts  of  tlie  comitry; 
while  the  others  are  driven  to  the  riuler  mountains,  and  to  the  more  in. 
hospitable  parts  of  the  country.  But  by  simply  observing,  in  accon)panyiii2 
us  along  our  road,  you  will  become  better  acquainted  with  these  people 
than  we  could  make  you  in  any  other  than  a  very  long  description,  aiiii 
you  will  find  them  worthy  of  your  interest. 

Roots,  seeds,  anil  grass,  ev(M'y  vegetable  that  ali'ords  any  iiourishmeiii, 
and  every  living  animal  thing,  insect  or  worm,  they  eat.  Nearly  appronch- 
ing  to  the  lower  animal  creation,  their  sole  em|)loym(Mit  is  to  ohtain  food; 
and  they  are  constantly  occui)icd  iu  a  struggle  to  support  exisience. 

The  most  remarkalile  feature  of  tho  i)ass  is  the  .S7r//K//;/i,'/v;cX',  which  has 
fallen fromthe  cliirsabove,andstandingperpeudicularly  near  lliemiddleof  tin 
valley,  presents  itself  likea  watch  tower  in  the  pass.  It  will  give  you  a  tolera- 
bly correct  idea  of  the  character  of  the  scenery  in  this  country,  wliere  general- 
ly the  mountains  rise  abruptly  up  from  comparatively  unbroken  plains  and 
level  valleys;  but  it  will  entirely  fail  in  representing  the  [)iclnresipie  beaut) 
of  this  delightful  place,  where  a  green  valley,  full  of  foliage,  and  a  hundred 
yards  wide,  contrasts  with  naked  crags  that  spire  up  into  a  blue  line  of  pin- 
nacles  .3,000  feet  above,  sometimes  crested  with  cedar  and  pine,  and  some- 
times ragged  and  bare. 

The  detention  that  we  met  with  in  opening  the  road,  and  perhaps  a  wil- 
lingness to  linger  on  the  way,  made  the  afternoon's  travel  short;  and  about 
two  miles  from  the  entrance  we  passed  through  another  gate,  and  en 
camped  on  the  stream  at  tho  junction  of  a  little  fork  from  the  southward, 
around  which  the  mountains  stooped  more  gently  down,  forming  a  small 
open  cove. 

As  it  was  still  early  in  the  afternoon,  Basil  and  myself  in  one  direction 
and  Mr.  Preuss  in  another,  set  out  to  explore  the  country,  and  ascended 
different  neighboring  peaks,  in  the  hope  of  seeing  some  indications  of  the 
lake ;  but  though  our  elevation  afforded  magnificent  views,  the  eye  ranging 


imp 

irn 

it 
mrr 

JLs( 
reaf 

witi 

J 
nior 
oold 
feet, 
com 
:i  sli 
alon 
ilie 
urn  I 

r 

iliro 
con!' 
elite 
:iig( 
')erri 
low, 
wliic 
iiidi( 
over 
.'{iiiv 
Bill 
!rom 
ilieir 
blan 
long 
wrel 
then 
iliisi 
as  w 
terec 
year 
'i  few 
cove 
Tl 
our 
scale 
exce 
skin; 
ofth 
whe 
tlierr 
ganc 
the  ( 


»«.] 


CAPT.   KKKMONT'H  NARRATIVK. 


U7 


as  it  flomati 

ilit^ed  in  seve 
|ii;i\v  on  Hon 
iliu  nltfrtiooQ 
iccicd  compani 
)il  pace — hein, 
lollt.      Slio  w 
\\n'j,i\  niicampei 
!)('  rout  (iijiffjt'nf, 
;  and  as  in  thi 
II  Viiiious  stiigi's 
over   the   eroai 
lilt  Simko  river, 
li vcd  iVotn  roou 
(I  Ibrtiuie  somo- 
niied  only  with 
luibit  is  a! most 
'  arms.     In  the 
rally  in  solitary 
llicr  in  village.r 
iriation,  are  in 
ot  ili'j  roinitry 

0  tlie  more  in 

1  nccompanyiii2 
til  tliese  peopli 
lescri[>tion,  and 


y  nonnshmoiit 
early  approach 
to  (i  I) la  in  food 
xisleiice. 
/7;cX*,  vvliiclilias 
'lomiddloof  til 
ve  yon  a  tolera- 
where  general- 
)ken  plains  and 
urcsipie  beauty 
,and  a  hnndred 
Ine  line  of  pin 
ine,  and  some- 


.) 


perliaps  a  wil 
lort;  and  aboui 
r  gate,  and  en 

the  southward, 
brming  a  small 

1  one  direction 
r,  and  ascended 
iications  of  the 
the  eye  ranging 


J  A  long  extent  of  Hear  river,  wiMi  the  hrond  and  fertile  Cache  vallry 
the  direction  of  our  search,  was  only  to  bo  seen  a   bed  ol  aj>parently 
impracticable  monntains.     Amoiii;  ilie.si',  the  trail  we  had  been   Ibllowiin; 

terned  sharply  to  the  northward,  and  it  began  to  be  doubt fnl  if  it  would 
BOt  lend  us  away  from  the  object  of  onr  destination  ;  but  I  nevertheless  do- 
ttrmined  to  keep  it,  in  the  W.WvX  that  it  would  ('vcniually  brin^  un  rii;ht. 
jisqinill  of  rain  drovt;  us  out  of  the  mountain  and  ii  was  la(<.'  when  wo 
ttaclu'd  the  camp.  The  (ivenim,'  closed  in  with  fre([ueni  showers  of  rain, 
with  some  liuhtnini;  and  thunder. 

tfiuifusl  .'JO. — We  had  roiislant  lliiindcr  storms duriii!,'  the  iiiyht.bnt  in  tho 
niormnf.?  tiu!  clouds  were  sinkinu;  to  the  hori/on,  and  the  air  was  ricar  and 
I'old,  with  the  thermometer  at  suiuisc  at  :{9'\  lOlevalion  by  ba;oni»ter  .'j,,'i80 
feet.  Wo  were  in  motion  early, continniiiu:  up  the  little  stream  without  cn- 
counloring  any  ascent  where  a  horse  would  not  easily  gallop,  and,  crossing 
11  slight  dividing  ground  at  the  summit,  descended  upon  a  small  stream, 
along  which  we  conliimed  on  llu^  same  excellent  hku\.  In  riding  through 
ihe  pass,  numerous  cranes  were  seen  ;  and  prairio  hens,  or  LMouse,  {hnnusin 
\imhcUns^)  which  lately  had  been  rare,  were  very  abundant. 
This  little  atliuent  bronglil  us  to  a  laiger  stream, down  whi(;li  we  travelled 

.through  a  more  open  bottom,  on  a  hivel  road,  where  heavily-laden  wagons 

^  could  pass  without  obstacle.  'I'he  hills  on  the  right  grew  lower,  and,  on 
entering  a  more  open  country,  we  discovered  tc  SlioshoiKiO  village  ;  and  be- 
ing desirous  to  obtain  information,  and  purrhase  from  them  some  roots  and 
berries,  we  halted  on  the  river,  which  was  ligjjtly  wooded  with  cimrry,  wil- 
low, maple,  service  berry,  and  aspen.     A  meridian  ol)servation  of  the  sun, 

j  which  I  obtained  here,  uave  ia°  14'  2a"for  our  latitude,  aiul  the  barometer 
indicated  a  height  ol'  '),17n  feet.     A  number  of  Indians  came;  immediately 

,  over  to  visit  us,  and  several  men  were  sent  to  the  village  with  goods,  tobacco, 

'  kniveSj  cloth,  vermilion,  and  the  usual  trinkets, to  exchange  for  provisions. 

,  But  they  had  no  game  of  any  kind  ;  and  it  was  ditiicnlt  to  obtain  any  toots 
!rom  them,  as  they  were  miserably  |)oor,  and  had  bin  little  to  spare  from 
their  winter  stock  of  provisions.     Several  of  the  Indians  (Jrew  aside  their 

\  blankets,  showing  me  their  lean  and  bony  figures  ;  and  I  would  not  any 

;  longer  tempt  them  with  a  display  of  our  merchandise  to  part  with  their 
wretched  subsistence,  when  they  gave  as  a  reason  that  it  would  expose 
them  to  temporary  starvation.  A  great  portion  of  the  region  inhabited  by 
this  nation  formerly  abounded  in  game  ;  the  buffalo  ranging  aboni  in  herds, 
as  we  had  found  them  on  the  eastern  waters,  and  the  plains  dotted  with  scat- 
tered bands  of  antelope  ;  but  so  rapidly  have  they  disap|)eared  within  a  few 
years,  that  now,  as  we  journeyed  along,  an  occasional  bnOalo  sknll  and  a 
few  wild  antelope  were  all  that  remained  of  the  abundance  wliich  liad 
covered  the  country  with  animal  life. 
The  extraordinary  rapidity  with  which  the  buffalo  is  disappearing  from 

,  our  territories  will  not  appear  surprising  when  we  remember  the  great 
scale  on  which  their  destruction  is  yearly  carried  on.  With  inconsiderable 
exceptions,  the  business  of  tho  American  trading  posts  is  carried  on  in  their 
skins ;  every  year  the  Indian  villages  make  new  lodges,  for  which  the  skin 
of  the  buffalo  furnishes  the  material;  and  in  that  portion  of  the  country 
where  they  are  still  found,  the  Indians  derive  their  entire  support  from 
them,  and  slaughter  them  with  a  thoughtless  and  abominable  extrava- 
gance. Like  the  Indians  themselves,  they  have  been  a  characteristic  of 
the  Great  West ;  and  as,  like  them,  they  are  visibly  diminishing,  it  will  be 


*  • 


>  • 


11' 


"S      .1 


^il:  ... 


128  UAFT.  FRKMONTrt  NARRATIVK.  [|§4j 

intorcsiing  to  throw  a  glance  backward  thro«m;li  the  lust  twonty  yoart,  and 
givi!  soimt  nccoiiiit  of  their  lonner  distrihiitioii  through  thu  couiUry,  and  tht 
liiinl  ol'  ihiiir  wusturii  range. 

Tho  iiiloriimtion  is  derived  priiioijjully  from  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  stipporied 
by  my  own  puisouul  knowledge  and  ao([Uuintance  with  lh«!  country.  Oh,- 
knowledi^e  does  not  qo  I'ariher  buck  than  tho  s[)rin^or  lS'Jt,at  which  tim« 
tho  butt'alo  were  spread  in  immense  nuinhitrsover  the  (>recM  river  and  Dear 
river  valleys,  and  through  all  the  country  lying  hoiweeii  the  Colorado,  ot 
Green  iiver  ot*  the  gulf  of  California,  and  Ltiwis's  fork  of  the  Columbia 
river;  the  meridian  of  Fort  Mali  then  foruiiiig  the  western  limit  of  thtir 
range.  The  buHalo  then  remained  Ibr  many  years  in  that  country,  and 
frequently  moved  down  the  valley  of  tlie  Columbia,  on  both  sides  of  tlic 
river  as  fur  as  tho  Fishinif  Jails.  Uelow  this  point  they  never  descendeil 
in  any  numbers.  About  the  year  1h;m  or  ISJ/i  ihey  bc^gan  to  diminish 
very  rapidly,  and  continued  to  decrease  until  IH.'JHor  1«1(),  when,  with  the 
country  we  have  just  described,  they  c..  'lely  abandoned  all  the  waters  oi 
the  Pacific  north  of  Lewis's  fork  of  the  C»)lumbii'.  At  that  time, tho  Flat- 
head  Indians  were  in  the  habit  of  finding  tlxur  butialoon  tho  heads  of  Sal- 
mon river,  and  other  streams  of  the  Columbia  ;  but  ikjw  they  never  meet 
witli  them  furiher  west  than  tho  tliree  forks  of  the  Missouri  or  tlie  plains 
of  the  Yellowstone  river. 

In  the  course  of  our  journey  it  will  be  remarked  that  the  bufl'alo  have  not 
so  entirely  abandoned  the  waters  of  the  Pacific,  in  the  Rocky-mouiitain  ro- 
giou  south  of  the  Sweet  Water,  as  in  the  country  north  of  llio  Great  Pass 
This  partial  distribution  can  only  be  accounted  for  in  the  great  pustora 
beauty  of  ilial  country,  which  bears  marks  ol  having  long  been  one  of  then 
favorite  haunts,  and  by  the  fact  tliat  the  while  hunters  have  more  frequent- 
ed tlie  northern  than  tho  southern  region — it  being  north  of  the  South  Pass 
that  the  liunters,  trappers,  and  traders,  have  had  their  rendezvous  tor  many 
years  past ;  and  from  tliat  section  also  the  greater  portion  of  the  beaver  anil 
rich  furs  were  taken,  although  always  the  most  dangerous  as  well  as  tin; 
niost  profitable  hunting  ground. 

In  that  region  lying  between  the  Green  or  Colorado  river  and  the  liead 
"waters  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  over  the  Yumpali,  Kooyah^  While,  and  Grand 
rivers — all  of  which  are  the  waters  of  the  Colorado — the  buffalo  never  ex- 
tended so  far  to  the  westward  as  they  did  on  the  waters  of  the  Columbia: 
and  only  in  one  or  two  instances  have  they  been  known  to  descend  as  far 
west  as  the  mouth  of  White  river.  In  travelling  through  the  country  west 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  observation  readily  led  me  to  the  impression  thai 
the  buffalo  had,  for  the  first  time,  crossed  that  range  to  the  waters  of  the 
Pacific  only  a  few  years  prior  to  the  period  we  are  considering ;  and  in  this 
opinion  I  am  sustained  by  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  and  the  older  trappers  in  that 
country.  In  the  region  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  we  never  meet  with 
any  of  the  ancient  vestiges  which,  throughout  all  the  country  lying  upon 
their  eastern  waters,  are  found  in  tho  great  highways,  continuous  for  hun- 
dreds of  miles,  always  several  inches  and  sometimes  several  feet  in  depth, 
which  the  bufl'alo  have  made  in  crossing  from  one  river  to  another,  or  in 
traversing  the  mountain  ranges.  The  Snake  Indians,  more  particularl; 
those  low  down  upon  Lewis's  fork,  have  always  been  very  grateful  to  the 
American  trappers,  for  the  great  kindness  (as  they  frequently  expressed  it) 
which  they  did  to  them,  in  driving  the  buffalo  so  low  down  the  Columbia 
river. 

The  extraordinary  abundance  of  the  buffalo  on  the  east  side  of  the  Rocky 


sou 
;is 

•■'! 

rci, 

u 

wil 


as  a 
u 

(lian 

the  ( 

wit^ 

and 

.  ions 

robt 

►  year 

■obta 

jhide 

iably 

ever 

robe 

twei 

'.  P''»'t 

hhis 

'bour 

iber  ! 

\     In 

JFrer 

lowi 

tains 

failu 

crea 

pres< 


[IS4J 

Dty  yoart,  and 
iiiitr/,  and  tht 


fie43.] 


lAIT.  FIJEMD.N  r8  NAKUATIVE. 


UO 


IBonntflins,  and  llin'r  exiraonlinnry  diininiitinn,  will  ho  mndo  clearly  cvi* 
tferil  iioiii  iIk>  ll>llo^vin^  .stiitoinciit  :  At  itiiy  tiiiu;  IxitwciMi  the  ycnrs  IH2t 
iek  sii^portadl^^*'  IH30,  a  iravellcr  might  stint  Iroiii  niiy  givr^ti  point  Noiitli  or  north  in  (hu 
:oimiry,  Ou'l  Rocky  mountain  range, journeying  \>y  the  niostt  diicct  route  to  the  Afinaouri 
river ;  and,  dtiring  the  whole  distance,  hit*  road  woidd  he  always  among 
lariit!  hands  ol'  hull'alo,  which  would  never  he  out  ol  his  view  until  he  nr- 
rivt'd  almost  within  sight  ol  the  ahodes  of  eivili/ation. 

At  this  time,  the  hull'alo  occupy  hut  a  very  limited  s|):icc,  principally  along 
the  eastern  hasc  of  th(>  Hocky  mountains,  sometimes  extending  at  their 
southern  extremity  to  a  considerahle  distancj*  into  the  plains  hetween  the 
I'laltc  und  Arkansas  rivtMs,  and  along  the  eastern  Irontier  ol  New  Mexico 
ns  far  south  as  Texas. 

The  following  statement,  which  I  owe  to  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Sanford, 
a  paitner  in  the  Ameiican  Fur  Com|)aiiy,  will  furlher  illustrate  thissuhject, 
by  extensive  knowledge  ac(piired  duringsicverui  years  ol  travel  through  the 
rejjion  inhabited  by  the  bulValo  : 


at  whirl)  timt 
river  and  Bear 
e  Colorado,  ot 
the  Coliuubia 
I  limit  of  theit 
t  coiuiiry,  and 
til  sides  of  till' 
!ver  desceiidt!il 
in  to  diminish 
vhen,  with  the 
I  the  waters  oi 
time, the  Flat- 
10  heads  of  Sal- 
ley  never  meet 
i  or  the  plain- 

lullalo  have  not 
y-inoiuitaiti  iv- 
ho  Great  Pass 
great  pastora 
cen  one  of  then 
more  frequent- 
the  South  Pass 
vous  lor  many 
10  beaver  and 
as  well  ?.s  tilt; 

and  the  head 
!/e,  and  Grand 
flalo  never  ex- 
he  Columbia; 
descend  as  far 
e  country  west 
mpression  thai 
waters  of  the 
ig ;  and  in  this 
•appers  in  that 
ever  meet  with. 
try  lying  uponfc 
nuous  for  hun- 
1  feet  in  depth, 
another,  or  in 
re  particularl 
grateful  to  the 
y  expressed  it) 
the  Columbia 


"The   total  amount  of  ro!»es  annually  traded  by  ourselves  and  others 
will  not  be  found  to  ditl'er  much  from  the  following  statement  : 


American  Fur  Company 
Hudson's  Hay  Company 
All  other  companies,  probably 


RohoM. 

70,000 
10,000 
10,000 

90,000 


Making  a  total  of        -  -  -  -  • 

as  an  average  annual  return  for  the  last  eight  or  ten  years. 

"  In  the  northwest,  the  Hudson's  Hay  Company  purchase  from  the  In- 
dians but  a  very  small  number — their  only  market  being  Canada,  to  which 
the  cost  of  transportation  nearly  rcpials  the  produce  of  the  lurs;  and  it  is  only 
within  a  very  recent  period  that  ihey  have  received  bulTalo  robes  i  trade  ; 
and  out  of  the  great  number  of  buflalo  annually  killed  throughout  the  ex- 
lonsive  regions  inhabited  by  the  Camanches  and  other  kindred  tribes,  no 
robts  whatever  are  i'urnished  for  trade.  During  only  four  months  of  the 
year,  ( from  November  until  March, )  the  skins  are  good  for  dressing  ;  those 
obtained  in  the  remaining  eight  months  being  valueless  to  traders  ;  and  the 
hides  of  bulls  are  never  taken  ofTor  dressed  as  robes  at  any  season.  Prob- 
ably not  more  than  one-third  of  the  skins  are  taken  from  the  animals  killed, 
even  when  they  are  in  good  season,  the  labor  of  preparing  and  dressing  the 
robes  being  very  great ;  and  it  is  seldom  that  a  lodge  trades  more  than 
twenty  skins  in  a  year.  It  is  during  the  summer  months,  and  in  the  early 
part  of  autumn,  that  the  greatest  number  of  buffalo  are  killed,  and  yet  at 
iliis  time  a  skin  is  never  taken  for  the  purpose  of  trade." 


From  these  data,  which  are  certainly  limited,  and  decidedly  withia 
bounds,  the  reader  is  left  to  draw  his  own  inference  of  the  immense  num- 
ber annually  killed. 

In  1842,  I  found  the  Sioux  Indians  of  the  Upper  Platte  demon tes^  as  their 
French  traders  expressed  it,  with  the  failure  of  the  buffalo  ;  and  in  the  fol- 
lowing year,  large  villages  from  the  Upper  Missouri  came  over  to  the  moun- 
tains at  the  heads  of  the  Platte,  in  search  of  them.  The  rapidly  progressive 
failure  of  their  principal  and  almost  their  only  means  of  subsistence  has 
e  of  the  Rocky  |created  great  alarm  among  them  ;  and  at  this  time  there  are  only  two  modes 
presented  to  them,  by  which  they  see  a  good  prospect  for  escaping  atarva- 
& 


PI, 


'% 


rr;>- 


'■  "-^  ^ 


130 
tion 


lAlT.   rilKMONTH  NAKKATIVB. 


[1B4S. 


:  one  of  thcNf  is  to  rohtlic  M'lilnncnl)!  ftlonfc  llii)  (ronlicr  of  (ho  States  ^ 
and  till  odii  r  is  to  ronn  u  Ica^iM*  hrtMCMi  tlir  vutiouM  trjIicN  o|'  dm  Siout 
nation,  tlitr  (Mirycnrifft,  nrul  AiapuhoeH,  iind  niitkr  wur  ui(uin.%t  the  Crow 
nation,  in  ordfi  tr»  take  liom  tlinn  llu-ii  country,  which  \*  now  thn  hoit 
hiiU'tdo  coiinlry  in  \\\v.  wc^tt.  This  phtn  they  now  ha\u  in  conHid'Tation ; 
iind  it  wouhl  prohahiy  he  a  wni  of  ixliM  uiiiMtion,  us  the  ('lo\^^  hiivc  h)ng 
hci'ii  iidvixid  «it  thi8  Ntatr  oi  alV.tii  s,  ainl  »ay  that  they  arc  pci  fcctly  |)r(>|)ari'd. 
TheNi>  arc  the  hcst  waniiM.H  in  tit*'  HucUy  mountains,  and  art!  now  allied 
with  lh(>  Snako  Indians;  arnl  it  is  |itohahl(.>  (hat  their  conihiriiition  would 
extend  ilHcll  to  the  IJtalis,  vs  ho  have  lt)n(;  hecn  en^u^cd  in  war  against  the 
Siour..  It  is  in  tliifl  ut'ction  oi'  ((Mintiy  that  my  olnservution  luinierly  led 
nie  to  reconiinend  the  t  stahji.thnieitl  ol  a  military  |i<>>it. 

The  Carlher  (MiiirHo  of  our  narrative  will  give  I'liller  and  moie  detailed 
inforniittioti  ol  the  pre  sent  dis|)o>iti()n  oC  the  hull'.do  in  the  country  wc 
visited. 

Among  the  roots  we  ohiaincd  lier(>,  I  could  distinguish  only  five  or  nix 
dillerent  kinde) ;  and  the  supply  of  the  Indians  \\ horn  we  met  eohNistcd 
principally  of  yampah,  {anvllunn,  ;j;i'airolcH.iy)  lohacco  root,  {Valeriana^) 
and  a  large  root  of  a  8pe»"i(  s  of  thi.itlt',  (  rirciurn  ^7r^'fn/r/nl///t,)  w  hich  now 
i^  occasioiKilly  ahiindant,  and  is  a  \eiy  agieeahly  (lavori-d  V(>g(>tal)le. 

We  had  heen  detaii.ed  ^o  long  at  (lu;  village,  that  in  itu;  ulternoon  wo 
made  only  five  milcM,  and  encamped  on  the  same  river  alter  a  day^8  jour- 
ney of  1!)  miles.  The  Indians  inlnrnird  us  that  we  should  iiiudi  the  hi|r 
suit  water  after  having  slept  twice  and  (ravelling  in  a  south  direction.  The 
stream  had  here  entered  a  nciiiiy  h  vel  plain  or  valley,  of  good  soil,  eight  or 
ten  miles  hroad,  to  which  no  leiiainalion  was  to  he  seen,  and  lying  hetwccn 
ranges  of  mountains  which,  on  lh<'  right,  ivere  grassy  and  smooth,  unhro- 
ken  hy  rock,  and  lower  than  on  liie  left,  where  ttiey  were  rocky  and  hald, 
increasing  in  height  to  the  southwanl.  On  the  creek  were  liinges  of  young 
willows,  older  trees  heing  rarcdy  found  on  tin;  plains,  where  tlu;  Indians 
burn  the  surface  to  produce  better  giass.  Several  magpies  {pica  lladsonica] 
were  seen  on  the  creek  this  aln moon  ;  and  a  rattlesnake  was  killed  here, 
the  fust  which  had  been  seen  since  leaving  the  eastern  plains.  Our  camp 
to-night  had  such  a  hungry  appearance,  that  I  suH'ered  (he  little  cow  to  be 
killccl,  and  divided  the  loots  aiul  berries  among  the  people.  A  number  ol 
Indians  from  the  village  cncuinped  near. 

The  weather  the  next  morning  was  clear,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  at 
44". 5,  and,  continuing  down  the  valley,  in  about  fivo  miles  we  followed 
the  little  creek  of  our  encampment  to  its  junction  with  a  larger  stream, 
ealled  Roseaux^  •><  Reed  river.  Immediately  opposite,  on  the  right,  the 
rai7<fc  was  gathiMeu  into  its  highest  peak,  .sloping  gradually  low,  and  run- 
ning oiT  to  a  point,  apparently  some  forty  or  fifty  miles  below.  Between 
this  (now  bpcome  the  valley  stream)  and  the  loot  of  the  mountains,  we 
journeyed  along  a  handsome  slojjing  level,  which  frequent  springs  from  tin 
hills  made  occasionally  miry,  and  hulled  to  noon  at  a  swampy  spring,  where 
there  were  good  grass  and  abundant  rushes.  Here  the  river  was  forty  feet 
wide,  with  a  considerable  current;  and  the  valley  a  mile  and  a  half  in 
breadth  ;  the  soil  being  generally  good,  of  a  dark  color,  and  apparently  well 
adapted  to  cultivation.  The  day  had  become  bright  and  pleasant,  with  the 
thermometer  at  TV.  By  observation,  our  latitude  was4r  59'  31",  and  the 
elevation  above  the  sea  4,G70  feet.     On  our  left,  this  aftci 


1 

I 


I 


moon,  the  range 
at  ioiig  intervals  formed  itself  into  peaks,  appearing  to  terminate, 


about 


i  \n\  I  RB.MO.NTH  NARHATIVE. 


131 


ofthr  Stutoi} 
of  llic  Sioui 
iiif^t  the  Crow 
now  thn  hflit 
onHJd'Mation ; 
iw.s  liav(<  long! 
:i\y  pic'piiu'd. 
ri>  now  alliod 
iriiition  would 
ai  against  (ho 
1  iutnieiljf  Ifd 

inoic  (Ictaihul 
,0  country  v.c 

nly  fivo  or  six 
met  conMlsted 
,  {Valeriana,) 
n,)  uhicli  now 
Cflilahli!. 
alicinoon  wc 
•  u  liay's  jour- 
I  reach  the  hig 
liroclion.  The 
1(1  soil,(:i<;htur 
1}  in^  Ixitwecn 
iuioolh,  unbro- 
ocky  and  hald, 
injjes  of  young 
re  Uk;  Indians 
ca  Jludsonica] 
ab  Uilled  here 
ns.  Our  camp 
itlle  c:ow  to  be  ,( 
A  number  o(  j 

jr  at  sunrise  at  ^ 
i  we   followed 
larj^er  slreara, 
the  tight,  the 
low,  and  run- 
ow.     Uetwecnl 
mountains,  we 
priiigs  from  the 
y  spring,  where 
r  was  forty  feet 
3  and  a  half  in 
ipparently  well 
asant,  with  the( 
0  31",  and  the 
loon,  the  range! 
irminate,  about[ 


forty  milesbt'low,  in  a  rorky  c»pfl  ;  beyond  which,  itftral  othcri  wcr«f  fnint- 
ly  vii«it)l(>  ;  und  we  \\v^^-  dnappoindd  whru  at  every  littln  riito  wu  did  not 
ler  (he  lake.  'I'owardH  evening,  our  way  wii<i  (ttnitcwhnt  obnlrnetod  by 
lelds  of  artcmiiiia,  which  began  In  muko  their  appi'tuanci*  bore,  and  we 
•DCiiinpi'd  on  lln;  KoHcaux,  iho  water  ol  which  had  iicipnred  a  deridudly 
nit  ta»i<>,  neaily  oppoNJir  lo  a  caTion  gap  in  tin-  mount. lio'^,  thioiigh  wbicfi 
the  Hear  river  enters  tin**  v.illey.  \n  we  eric.tmp*il,  (he  night  .set  in  dark 
and  eotd,  with  heavy  rain  ;  and  the  nrtemi^ia,  which  was  h(>re  our  only 
wood,  WAS  .so  W(!t  (bat  it  would  not  hiuti.  A  poor,  nearly  htarved  dog, 
with  u  wound  in  bis  hide  from  a  hall,  came  (o  thi>  camp,  and  t('niaine(| 
with  u.s  uniil  the  winter,  when  he  met  a  very  unexpected  fate. 

Septeinhvr  I.  The  moining  was!<«pially  and  ccdd  ;  llm  sky  scaKered  over 
with  clouds  ;  and  thi;  night  had  iieen  so  uncomlort. title,  lh.it  we  w'>>re  not  on 
the  roud  until  H  (t\;|ock.  Travelling  between  Uo.seaux  :iii(l  Me.ir  rivers,  wo 
continued  todctxx'tid  (he  valley, which  gradually  expa'tded,  as  wi*  advanc(>d, 
in(o  u  levtd  pl.iin  of  g«i()d  soil,  ul)uut  25  miles  in  hrea'lth,  between  moun< 
tains  3,000  ami  '1,()()()  I'eet  hi;^h,  rising  suddenly  to  the  clouds,  which  all  day 
rcs(cd  upon  the  pe.dvs.  Tluse  gleamed  out  in  the  occasintial  >ut)light,  man- 
tled w  ith  the  snow  which  bid  fallen  upon  them,  while  it  r  lined  on  us  in  the 
valley  below,  of  whir-h  tlur  elevation  here  w.is  about  1, .■>(»()  tee)  abovt;  the 
sea.  The  country  belbre  us  plaitdy  indicated  tint  wo  were  approaching 
the  lake,  though,  as  the  grouml  where  we  were  travelling  allorded  no  ele- 
vated point,  nothing  of  it  as  yet  could  be  seen  ;  and  at  a  gicat  liistance  ahead 
were  several  isolated  mouritains,  resembling  i.>ilan  Is,  which  they  were  after  - 
wards  found  to  hr.  On  this  upper  plain  the  grass  was  every  where  dead  ; 
and  among  the  shrubs  \>  ith  u  hieh  it  was  almost  exclusively  occupied,  (arte* 
inisia  being  the  njost  abumlant,)  iVefjuently  occurred  hiindsome  clusters  of 
several  species  of  tlletciia  in  bloom.  Purshia  tn\lcnt(itu  was  amo.ig  the 
frequent  shrubs.  Dcsieuding  to  the  bottoms  of  IJfiar  river,  wo  found  good 
^rass  for  the  utiimals,  and  twicampcd  about  300  yards  above  the  mou'h  of 
Koscaux,  which  bete  makes  its  junction,  without  eommunicating  any 
of  its  salty  taste  to  the  main  .streum,  of  which  the  Water  lemiins  perfectly 
pure.  On  the  river  ai  e  otdy  w  illow  thickets,  [salix  lun<j\foUa,)  and  in  the 
bottoms  the  abundant  pl.nts  arc  canes,  solidago,  and  helianthi,  and  along 
the  banks  of  Uoseaux  arc  belds  of  mulva  rotundi/'olia.  At  sunset  the  ther- 
mometer was  at  al'-'.o,  and  the  evening  clear  and  calm  ;  but  I  deferred 
making  any  use  of  it  until  1  o'clock  in  the  morning,  when  I  endeavored 
to  obtain  an  emersion  of  the  tirst  satellite  ;  but  it  was  Inst  in  a  bank  of 
clouds,  which  also  rendered  our  usual  observations  indill'orent. 

Among  the  useful  things  which  formed  a  portion  of  our  equipage,  was  an 
India-rubber  boat,  IS  lect  lon^,  nridc  somewhat  in  the  form  of  a  bark  canoo 
of  the  northern  lakes.  The  sides  were  formed  by  two  air-tight  cylinders, 
eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  connected  wiih  others  forming  the  bow  and 
stern.  To  lessen  the  danger  from  accidents  to  the  boat,  these  were  divided 
into  four  diflerent  compartments,  and  the  interior  space  was  sufficiently 
large  to  contain  live  or  six  persons  and  a  considerable  weight  of  baggage. 
The  Roseaux  being  too  deep  to  be  forded,  our  boat  was  filled  with  air,  and 
in  about  one  hour  all  the  equipage  of  the  camp,  carriage  and  gun  included, 
ferried  across.  Thinkiuij;  that  perhaps  in  the  course  of  the  day  we  might 
reach  the  outlet  at  the  lake,  I  got  into  the  boat  with  Basil  Lajeunessc,  and' 
paddled  down  Hear  river,  intending  at  night  to  rcjoiu  i::e  p'J-rty,  v.'hich  in 
he  mean  time  proceeded  on  its  way.     The  river   was  from  sixty  to  one 


133 


CAPT.  FURMONT'H  NARRATIVE. 


,',s'w' 


'»»V 


i-  ^;v: 


<r    ^  >    ■ 


:  *    .';  "1.  .'■* 


i^  [1843. 

hundred  yards  broad,  and  fhe  water  so  iloop,  that  even  on  the  comparatively 
shallow  points  we  eoiild  not  reach  the  bottom  with  15  feet.  Oneiihcrside 
were  alternately  low  bottoms  and  willow  points,  with  an  oecabional  high 
prairie  ;  ;ind  lor  live  or  six  hours  we  followed  slowly  tin;  wintling  course  of; 
the  river,  whii^h  crept  alonjf  with  aslnngish  current  among  lre<iuent  drtoun 
several  miles  around,  sometimes  mnning  )br  a  considerable  distance  directly 
up  the  valley.  As  we  were  stealing  (piietly  dow  n  the  stream,  trying  in  vain 
to  get;i  shot  at  a  strange  large  biid  th.<'  was  nunieioiis  among  the  willows, 
but  very  shy,  we  came  unex})ectedly  upon  sev(Mal  lamilicsol  Root  Digger.'^^ 
who  were  eneamped  among  the  rushes  on  the  shore,  and  api)caretl  very 
busy  a!)out  several  w(  its  or  n(!ts  which  had  been  ludely  made  of  canes  and 
rushes  for  (ho  purpose  of  catching  fish.  They  were  very  much  startled  at 
our  appearance,  but  we  soon  established  an  actjuainlanoe  ;  and  finding  that 
they  had  some  roots,  I  promised  to  send  some  men  with  goods  to  trado 
with  them.  They  had  the  usual  very  large  heads,  remarkaF)le  among  the 
Digger  tribe,  with  matted  hair,  and  were  almost  entirely  naked  ;  looking 
very  poor  and  misetable,  as  if  their  lives  had  becin  spent  in  the  rushes  where 
they  were,  beyond  w  hieli  they  seemed  to  have  very  little  knowledge  of  any 
thing.  From  the  lew  words  v,  e  could  comprehend,  their  language  waa 
that  of  the  Snake  Indians. 

Our  boat  moved  so  heavily,  thatwe  had  made  very  little  progress;  and, 
finding  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  overtake  the  camp,  as  joon  as  we  werR 
sufficiently  far  below  the  Indians,  we  put  to  the  shore  near  a  high  prairie 
bank,  hauled  up  the  boat,  and  cached  our  ellecls  in  the  willows.  Ascending 
the  bank,  we  Ibund  that  our  desultory  labor  had  brought  us  only  a  few  miles 
in  a  direct  line  ;  and,  going  out  into  the  prairie,  alter  a  search  we  found  the 
trail  of  the  camp,  which  was  now  nowhere  in  sight,  but  had  followed  the 
general  course  of  the  river  in  a  large  circular  sweep  which  it  makes  at  this 
place.  The  sun  was  about  thiee  hours  high  when  we  found  the  trail  ;  and 
as  our  people  had  passed  early  in  the  day,  we  had  the  prospect  of  a  vigorous 
walk  before  us.  Immediately  where  we  landed,  the  high  arable  plain  on 
which  we  had  been  travelling  for  several  di^ys  past  terminated  in  extensive 
low  flats,  very  generally  occupied  by  salt  marshes,  or  beds  of  shallow  lakes, 
whence  the  water  had  in  most  places  evaporated,  leaving  their  hard  surface 
encrusted  with  a  shining  white  residuum,  and  absolutely  covered  with  very 
small  univalve  shells.  As  we  advanced,  the  whole  country  around  us  as- 
sumed this  pppear^nre  ;  and  there  wcd  no  other  vegetation  than  the  shrubby 
chenopodiaceous  and  othar  apparently  saline  pl.mts,  which  were  confined 
to  the  rising  grounds.  I  ieie  and  there  on  the  river  bank,  which  was  raised 
like  a  levee  above  the  flats  through  which  it  ran,  was  a  narrow  border  of 
grass  and  short  black-burnt  willows  ;  the  stream  being  very  deep  and 
sluggish,  and  sometimes  600  to  800  leet  wide.  Afi.  r  a  rap'd  walk  of  about 
15  miles,  we  caughl  sight  ol  the  camp  fires  among  clumps  of  willows  just 
as  the  sun  had  sunk  behind  the  mountains  on  the  west  side  of  the  val- 
ley, filling  the  clear  sky  with  a  golden  yellow.  These  last  rays,  to  us  so 
piecious,  could  not  have  revealed  a  more  welcome  sight.  To  the  traveller 
and  the  hunter,  a  camp  fire  in  the  lonely  wilderness  is  always  cheering ; 
and  to  ourselves,  in  our  present  situation,  after  a  hard  march  in  a  region  of 
novelty,  approaching  the  debouches  of  a  river,  in  a  lahe  of  almost  fabulous 
reputation,  it  was  doubly  so.  A  plentiful  supper  of  aquatic  birds,  and  the 
interest  of  the  scene,  soor  dissipated  fatigue  ;  and  I  obtained  during  the 


1843.] 


CAPT.   I  llEMOiNT'H  NARRATIVE. 


i:;3 


omparalively 
')n  either  side 
catiional  high 
ling  course  of  i 
([iicnt  di' tours 
ance  directly 
trying  in  vain 
tlu!  willows, 

ppcarctl  very 
.?  of  canes  and 
eh  startled  at 
d  findiii};  that 
;oods  to  trado 
)l(;  among  tho 
ked ;  lookinjj; 
rushes  where 
vledge  of  any 
language  waii 

>rogres9 ;  and, 
on  as  we  werfi 
a  high  prairie 
s.    Ascending 
ly  a  few  miles 
we  found  the 
I  followed  the 
makes  at  this 
the  trail ;  and 
t  of  a  vigorous 
rable  plain  on 
d  in  extensive 
shallow  lakes, 
r  hnrd  surface 
red  with  very 
around  us  as- 
n  the  shrubby 
were  confined 
ich  was  raised 
uw  border  of 
ery  deep  and 
walk  of  about 
willows  just 
e  of  the  val- 
rays,  to  us  &o 
the  traveller 
lys  cheering ; 
in  a  region  of 
most  fabulous 
jirds,  and  the 
ed  during  the 


night  emersions  of  the  second,  third,  and  fourtli  satellites  of  Jupiter,  with 
observations  for  time  and  latitude. 

September  3. — The  morning  was  clear,  with  a  light  air  froui  the  north, 
tndnhe  thermometer  at  sunrise  at  45". 5.  At  .3  in  the  niorning,  Basil 
was  sent  back  with  several  men  and  horses  for  the  boat,  which,  in  a  direct 
course  across  the  (hits,  was  not  10  miles  distant ;  and  in  the  mean  time  there 
was  a  pretty  spot  of  grass  here  for  the  animals.  The  ground  was  so  low 
that  we  could  not  get  high  enough  to  see  across  the  river,  on  accoimt  of  the 
willows  ;  but  we  were  evidently  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lake,  and  tlie  water 
fowl  made  this  morning  a  noise  like  thunder.  A  pelican  {peAecdiiUfi  ono- 
crotalus)  was  killed  as  he  passed  by,  and  many  geese  and  duc^ks  Hew  over 
ihe  tamp.  On  the  dry  salt  marsh  here,  is  scarce  any  other  plant  than 
^alicornia  hfrbudu. 

In  the  afternoon  the  men  returned  with  the  boat,  bringing  with  them  a 
small  quantity  of  roots,  and  souic  meat,  which  the  Indians  had  told  them 
was  !)ear  meat. 

Descending  the  river  for  about  tlirce  miles  in  the  afternoon,  we  found  a 
bar  to  any  further  travelling  in  that  direction — the  stream  being  spread  out 
in  several  branches,  and  covering  the  low  grounds  w  iih  water,  where  the 
miry  nature  of  the  bottom  did  not  permit  any  further  advance.  We  were 
evidently  on  the  border  of  the  lake,  although  the  rushes  and  canes  which 
covered  the  marshes  prevented  any  view  ;  and  we  accordingly  encamped 
at  the  little  deUu  which  forms  the  tnou'Ji  of  Bear  livcr  ;  a  long  arm  of  the 
!dke  stretching  up  to  the  north  between  us  and  the  opp.osite  mountains. 
The  river  was  bordered  with  a  fringe  of  willows  and  canes,  among  which 
vere  interspersed  a  few  plants  ;  and  scattered  about  on  the  marsh  was  a 
species  of  WKio^a,  closely  allied  to  U.  sjticata  of  our  sea  coist.  The  whole 
morass  was  animated  with  mnhitudcs  of  watei'  fowl,  which  nj)pcared  to  be 
very  wild — rising  lor  tho  ?pacc  ol  a  mile  round  about  at  the  sound  of  a  gun, 
vith  a  noise  like  distant  timnder.  Several  of  the  pLople  waded  out  into 
'hc;  marshes,  and  we  had  to-night  a  delicious  suj)per  of  ducks,  geese,  and 
plover. 

Although  the  moon  was  bright,  the  night  was  otherwise  favorable  ;  and 
I  obtained  this  evening  an  emersion  of  the  first  satellite,  with  the  usual  ob- 
servations. A  mean  result,  depending  on  var  ious  obsei  vations  made  during 
our  sta^r  in  the  neighborhood,  places  the  mouth  of  tho  river  in  longitude 
112°  19'  30"  west  from  Greenwich  ;  latitude  41°  30'  22"  ;  and,  according 
to  the  barometer,  in  elevation  4,200  feet  above  the  gvdf  of  Mexico.  The 
night  was  clear,  with  considerable  dew,  which  I  had  remarked  every  night 
since  the  first  of  September.  The  next  morning,  while  we  were  preparing 
to  start,  Carson  lode  into  the  camp  with  flour  and  a  few  other  articles  of 
light  provision,  sufficient  for  two  or  three  days — a  scanty  but  very  accepta- 
;)le  supply.     Mr.  Fitzpatrick  had  not  yet  arrived,  and  provisions  were  very 

I  scarce,  and  difficult  to  be  had  at  Fort  Hall,  which  had  been  entirely  ex- 
hausted by  the  necessities  of  the  emigrants.  He  brought  me  also  a  letter 
from  Mr.  Dwight,  who,  in  company  with  several  eaiigrants,  had  reached 
that  place  in  advance  of  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  and  was  about  continuing  his 

:  journey  to  V  ncouver. 

f      Returning^'*  bout  five  miles  up  the  river,  we  were  occupied  until  nearly 

■  J  nset  in  ciossing  to  the  left  bank — the  stream,  which  in  the  hist  five  or  six 
miles  of  its  course,  is  very  much  narrower  than  above,  L   ing  very  deep  im- 

i  mediately  at  the  banks;  and  we  had  great  difficulty  in  getting  our  animals 


•'  -I 


131 


CAPT.   FREMf».\T'S  NARKATIVE. 


[1843. 


4  5'  •■■    .1 


over.  The  pcoj)le  with  (he  baji^agc  were  easily  crossed  in  the  boat,  *nd, 
we  onciitupcfl  on  the  left  Ijiink  where  we  crossed  the  river.  At  sunset  the 
thernionietcr  w.is  at  75  ,  aiul  there  was  some  rain  during  the  night,  with  a 
thunder  storm  at  a  distanc  e. 

September  5. — Bolore  us  was  evidently  the  bed  of  the  hike,  being  a  great 
salt  marsh,  perfectly  level  and  bare,  whitened  in  places  by  saline  efflo- 
rescences,  with  lieie  and  there  a  pool  of  water,  and  having  the  appearance 
of  a  very  level  seu  shore  at  low  tide.  Immediately  along  the  river  was  a 
very  t.arrow  stiip  of  vegetation,  consisting  of  willows,  hclianthi,  roses, 
flowering  vines,  and  grass  ;  bordered  on  the  verge  ol  the  great  marsh  by  a 
fringe  of  singular  plants,  which  appear  to  be  a  shrubby  salicornia,  or  a  genus 
allied  to  it. 

About  12  miles  to  the  southward  was  one  of  those  isolated  mountains, 
now  appearing  to  be  a  kind  of  peninsula  ;  and  towards  this  we  c ccordingly 
directed  our  course,  as  it  probably  alForded  a  good  view  of  the  lake  ;  but 
the  deepening  mud  as  we  advanced  forced  us  to  return  toward  the  river,  and 
gain  the  higher  ground  at  the  foot  of  the  eastern  mountains.  Here  we  halt- 
ed for  a  few  minutes  at  noon,  on  a  beautiful  little  stream  of  pure  and  re- 
markably clear  water,  vvitii  a  bed  of  rock  in  situ,  on  which  was  an  abun- 
dant water  plant  witli  a  white  blossom.  There  was  good  grass  in  the  bot- 
toms ;  and,  amidst  a  rather  luxui  iant  growth,  its  banks  were  bordered  with 
a  larg*^  showy  plant  {eupatorium  purpureum,)  whicli  I  here  saw  for  the 
first  lime.     VVe  named  the  stream  Clear  creek. 

We  continued  our  way  along  the  mountain,  having  found  here  a  broad 
plainly  beaten  trail,  over  what  was  apparently  the  shofo  of  the  lake  in  the 
spriiig  ;  the  ground  being  high  and  firm,  and  tne  so?  v,  •^'^t  and  covered 
with  vegetation,  among  which  a  lef^uminous  plant  \^..,lijtijrrhiza  lepidota) 
was  a  characteristic  plant.  The  ridge  here  rises  abruptly  to  the  height  ol 
about  4.^000  feet  ;  its  face  being  very  prominemiy  marked  with  a  massive 
stratum  of  rose  colored  granular  quartz,  which  is  evidently  an  altered  sedi- 
mentary rock  ;  the  lines  o^  deposition  being  very  distinct.  It  is  rocky  and 
steep;  divided  into  several  mountains;  and  the  rain  in  the  valley  appears 
to  be  always  snow  ^.)  their  summits  at  this  season.  Near  a  remarkable 
rocky  point  of  the  niountain,  at  a  large  spring  of  pure  water,  were  several 
hackberry  trees,  (celtis,)  probably  a  new  species,  the  berries  still  green  ; 
and  a  short  distance  farther,  thickets  of  sumach  (rhus.) 

On  the  plain  here  I  noticed  blackbirds  and  grouse.  In  about  seven 
miles  from  Clear  creek,  the  trail  brought  us  to  a  place  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain  where  there  issued  with  considerable  force  ten  or  Iv  >  ive  hot 
springs,  highly  impregnated  with  salt.  In  one  of  these,  the  .^iyn^  meter 
stood  at  136°,  and  in  another  at  132°.5  ;  and  the  water,  whic.  ;•  .n  id  in 
pools  over  the  low  ground,  was  colored  red.* 

*  An  analysis  of  the  red  earthy  matter  deposited  in  the  bed  of  the  stream  from  the  springs 
gives  the  following  result : 

Peroxide  of  iron    -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  33.- 

Carl: -nate  of  magnesia  -----_-.  2.40 

Carbonate  of  lime  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  50.43 

Sulphate  of  lime    -  -  -  -  -  -.-  -  -  2.00 

Chloride  of  sodium  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  3.45 

Silica  and  alumina  -  -  _  -  -  .  -  3.  oo 

Water  and  loss      ---_---.-  5.22 

100.00 


..*'«':  f 


[1843.  I  1843.] 


CAI'T.  FREMONT'S  NAKUATIVE. 


135 


[he  boat,  And 
At  sunset  the 
night,  with  a 

being  a  great 
saline  etflo- 
c  appearance 
e  river  was  a 
lianthi,  roses, 
at  marsh  by  a 
iia,or  a  genus 

(1  mountains, 
e  rccordingly 
he  lake  ;  but 
the  river,  and 
ilere  we  halt- 
pure  and  rc- 
was  an  abun- 
ss  in  the  bot- 
)ordered  with 
J  saw  lor  the 

hero  a  broad 
he  lake  in  the 
t  and  covered 
iza  lepidota) 

the  height  ol 
ith  a  massive 

altered  sedi- 
t  is  rocky  and 
alley  appears 
a  rpmarkable 

were  several 
!S  still  green  ; 

about  seven 
le  foot  of  the 
)r  ■  V  -Ive  hoi 
K^i"'.!!  meter 
.    ! .  ri  «d  in 


from  the  springs 

33. 

2.40 
50.43 
2.00 
3.4.5 
3.00 
5.22 

ICO.OO 


At  this  place  the  trail  we  had  been  following  turned  to  the  If  ft,  app:\renf- 
ly  with  the  view  of  entering  a  gorge  in  tlm  mountain,  from  which  isssuctl 
the  principal  fork  of  a  large  and  coinj)nra(iv(ly  well-liniberod  strtAm,  called 
Weber's  fork.  VVe  accordingly  f'.rncd  oil  towards  tlio  lake,  and  encamped 
on  tjiis  river,  which  was  100  to  loO  feet  wide,  with  high  banks,  and  very 
clear  pure  water,  without  the  tilightest  indication  of  salt, 

September  0. — Leaving  the  encampment  o;irly,  we  again  directed  our 
course  for  the  peninsular  butte  across  a  low  shrubby  plain,  crossing  in  the 
way  a  slough-like  creek  with  miry  banks,  and  wooded  with  thickets  of  thorn 
[cralcBgus)  which  wore  loaded  with  berries.  This  time  we  reached  the 
butte  without  any  dilliculty,  and,  asccnd'iig  to  the  summit,  immediately  at 
our  feet  behold  the  object  of  our  anxious  search — the  waters  of  the  Inland 
Sea,  stietching  in  still  and  solitary  graiuleiir  far  beyond  the  limit  of  our 
vision.  It  was  one  of  the  great  points  of  the  exploration  ;  and  as  we  looked 
eagerly  over  the  lake  ip  the  first  emotions  of  excited  pleasure,  I  am  doubtful 
if  the  followers  of  Balboa  felt  more  enlhusi.i  n\  when,  from  the  heights  of 
the  Andes,  they  saw  for  the  first  time  the  great  Western  ocean.  It  was 
certainly  a  magnificent  object,  and  a  noble  terminus  to  this  part  of  our  ex- 
pedition ;  and  to  tiavellers  so  long  shut  up  among  mountain  ranges,  a  sud- 
den view  over  tlie  expanse  of  silent  waters  had  in  it  something  sublime. 
Several  large  islands  raised  their  high  rocky  heads  out  of  the  waves;  but 
whether  or  not  they  were  limbered,  was  still  left  to  our  imagination,  as  the 
distance  was  too  great  to  determine  if  the  dark  hues  upon  them  were  wood- 
land or  naked  rock.  During  the  day  the  clouds  had  been  gathering  black 
over  the  mountains  to  the  westward,  and,  while  we  were  looking,  a  storm 
burst  down  with  sudden  fury  upon  the  lake,  and  entirely  hid  the  islands 
from  our  view.  So  far  as  we  could  see,  along  the  shores  there  was  not  a 
solitary  tree,  and  but  little  appearance  of  grass;  and  on  Weber's  fork,  a 
few  ndles  below  our  last  encampment,  the  timber  was  gathered  into  groves, 
and  then  disappeared  entirely.  As  this  appeared  to  be  the  nearest  point  to 
the  lake  where  a  suitable  camp  could  be  found,  we  directed  our  course  to 
one  of  the  groves,  where  we  found  a  handsome  encampment,  with  good 
grass  and  an  abundance  of  rushes,  {equisetumhyemale.)  At  sunset,  the  ther- 
mometer was  at  55°;  the  evening  clear  and  calm,  with  some  cumuli. 

September  7. — The  morning  was  caim  and  clear,  with  a  temperature 
at  sunrise  of  39°. 5.  The  day  was  spent  in  active  preparation  for  our  in- 
tended voyage  on  the  lake.  On  the  edge  of  the  stream  a  favorable  spot 
Avas  selected  in  a  grove,  and,  felling  the  timber,  we  made  a  strong  coral  or 
horse  pen,  for  the  anim  ,  and  a  little  fort  for  the  people  who  were  to  re- 
main. VVe  were  now  probably  in  the  country  of  the  Utah  Indians,  though 
none  reside  upon  the  lake.  The  India-rubber  boat  was  repaired  with  pre- 
pared cloth  and  gum,  and  filled  with  air,  in  readiness  for  the  next  day. 

The  provisions  which  Carsonhadbrought  with  him  being  new  exhausted, 
and  our  stock  reduced  to  a  small  quantity  of  roots,  I  determined  to  retain 
with  me  only  a  sufficient  number  of  men  for  the  execution  of  our  design  ; 
and  accordingly  seven  w^ere  sent  back  to  Fort  Hall,  under  the  guidance 
of  Francois  Lajeunesse,  who,  having  been  for  many  years  a  trapper  in  the 
country,  v/as  considered  an  experienced  mountaineer.  Though  they  were 
provided  v.'ith  good  horses,  and  the  road  was  a  remarkably  plain  one  of 
only  four  days'  journey  for  a  horseman,  they  became  bewildered,  (as  we 
afterwards  learned,)  and,  losing  their  way,  wandered  about  the  country  in 


•/•' 


■,  i 


1  >'  -1 


136 


CAPT.  FHEMONT'S  NARllATIVE. 


[i84y. 


'■',;.(•■ 


-1 


"I 


,V; 


■(     ,' 


parties  of  one  or  two,  reaching  the  fi)it  ahout  a  week  afterwards.  Sobe 
straggled  in  of  themselves,  ami  the  others  were  hroiight  in  hy  Indians  who 
had  picked  them  up  on  Snake  river,  ahout  sixty  miles  below  the  fort,  trav- 
elling along  the  emigrant  road  in  full  march  for  the  Lower  Coliiinbia.  The 
leader  of  this  adventurous  party  was  Francois. 

Hourly  barometrical  observations  were  made  during  the  day,  and,  after 
departure  of  the  party  for  Fort  liall,  we  occupied  ourselves  in  continuing 
our  little  preparations,  and  in  becoming  acquainted  with  the  country  in 
the  vicinity.  The  bottonis  alotig  the  river  were  tiuibered  with  several 
kinds  of  willow,  hawthorn,  and  line  cottonwood  Irces  [populiis  canadensis] 
with  remarkably  large  leaves,  and  sixty  leet  in  hciglit  by  measurement. 
We  formed  now  but  a  small  family.  With  Mr.  Preuss  and  myself,  Car- 
8on,Bernier,  and  Basil  Lajeunesse,  had  been  selected  lor  the  boat  expedi- 
tion— the  (irst  ever  attempted  on  this  interior  sea  ;  and  Badeau,  with  Do 
rosier,  and  Jacob,  ( the  colored  uian, )  wei  e  to  be  left  in  charge  of  the  camp. 
"We  were  favored  with  most  delightful  weather.  To-night  tiiere  was  a 
brilliant  sunset  of  golden  orange  and  green,  which  left  the  western  sky 
clear  and  beautifully  pure  ;  but  clouds  in  the  east  made  me  lose  an  occulta- 
tion.  The  summer  frogs  were  singing  around  us,  and  the  evening  was 
very  pleasant,  with  a  temperature  of  G0° — a  night  of  a  more  southern  au- 
tumn. For  our  supper  we  had  yampah^  the  most  agreeably  flavored  of  the 
roots,  seasoned  by  a  small  fat  duck,  which  had  come  in  the  way  of  Jacob's 
rifl»  \round  our  fire  to-night  were  many  speculations  on  what  to-morrow 
woUi/  %  forth,  and  in  our  busy  f'njectuies  wc  fancied  that  we  should 

find  evc  jne  of  the  large  islands  a  tangled  wilderness  of  trees  and  shrub- 
bery, teeniing  with  game  of  every  description  that  the  neighboring  region 
afforded,  and  which  the  fool  of  a  white  man  or  Indian  had  never  violated. 
Frequently,  during  the  day,  clouds  had  rested  on  the  summits  of  their  lofty 
mountains,  and  we  believed  that  we  should  find  clear  streams  and  springs 
of  fresh  water;  and  we  indulged  in  anticipations  of  the  luxuiious  repasts 
with  which  we  were  to  indemnify  ourselves  for  past  privations.  Neither, 
in  our  discussions,  were  the  w hirlpooi  and  other  mysterious  dan^eis  forgot- 
ten, which  Indian  and  hunter's  stoiies  attributed  to  this  unexplored  lake. 
The  men  had  discovered  that,  instead  of  being  strongly  sewed  (like  that  of 
the  preceding  year,  which  had  so  triumphantly  rode  the  canons  of  the  Up- 
per Great  Platte,)  our  present  boat  was  only  pasted  together  in  a  vcrj  inse- 
cure manner,  the  maker  having  been  allowed  so  little  time  in  the  construc- 
tion, that  he  was  obliged  to  crowd  the  labor  of  two  months  into  several 
days.  The  insecurity  of  the  boat  was  sensibly  felt  by  us  ;  and,  mingled 
with  the  enthusiasm  and  excitement  that  we  all  felt  at  the  prospect  of  an 
undertaking  which  had  never  before  been  accomplished,  was  a  certain  im- 
pression of  danger,  sufficient  to  give  a  serious  character  to  our  convprsaticn. 
The  momentary  view  which  had  been  had  of  the  lake  the  day  before,  its 
great  extent  and  rugged  islands,  dimly  seen  amidst  the  dark  wat  jrs  in  the 
obscurity  of  the  sudden  storm,  were  well  calculated  to  heighten  the  idea 
of  undefined  danger  with  which  the  lake  was  generally  associated. 

September  8. — A  calm,  clear  day,  with  a  sunrise  temperature  of  41°. 
In  view  of  our  present  enterprise,  a  part  of  the  equipment  of  the  boat  had 
been  made  to  consist  in  three  air-tight  bags,  about  three  feet  long,  and  ca- 

1.     These  had  been  filled  with  water 


pabl 


ling 


gall 


the  night  before,  and  were  now  placed  in  the  boat,  with  our  blankets  and 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


137 


suiemcnt. 
myself,  Car- 
boat  expedi- 
lu,  \vith  l)e 
of  the  camp, 
there  was  a 
western  sky 
2  an  occulta- 
evening  was 
southern  au- 
ivored  of  the 
ay  of  Jacob's 
at  to-morrow 
at  we  should 
3S  and  slirub- 
)oring  region 
;vcr  violated, 
of  their  lofty 
and  springs 
rious  repasts 
hs.     Neither, 
njiGi  s  forgot- 
ipiored  lake, 
(like  that  of 
lis  of  the  Up- 
1  a  very  inse- 
the  construc- 
into  several, 
and,  mingled 
respect  of  an 
a  certain  im- 
convprsation. 
ay  before,  its 
watjrs  in  the 
ittn  the  idea 
iated. 

ature  of  41°. 
the  boat  had 
long,  and  ca- 
d  with  water 
blankets  and 


Initruments,  consisting  of  a  sextant,  telescope,  spy  glass,  thermometer,  and 
barometer. 

VVc  left  the  camp  at  sunrise,  and  had  a  very  pleasant  voyage  down  the 
river,  in  wiiich  there  was  generally  eight  or  ten  feet  of  water,  deepening  as 
we  neared  the  mouth  in  the  latter  part  of  the  day.  In  the  course  of  the 
iDorning  we  discovered  that  two  of  the  cylinders  leaked  so  much  as  to  re- 
quire one  man  constantly  at  the  I)ellows,  to  keep  them  sufl'iciently  full  of 
air  to  support  the  boat.  Although  we  had  made  a  very  early  start,  we 
loitered  so  much  on  the  way — .^topping  every  now  and  then,  and  lloating 
silently  along,  to  get  a  shot  at  a  goose  or  a  duck — that  it  was  late  in  the  day 
when  we  reached  the  outlet.  The  river  here  divided  into  several  branches, 
filled  with  fluvials,  and  so  very  shallow  that  it  was  with  difTiculty  we 
oould  get  tlie  boat  along,  being  obliged  to  get  out  and  wade.  We  encamped 
in  a  low  point  among  rushes  and  young  willows,  where  there  was  a  quan- 
;ity  of  drift  wood,  which  served  for  our  fires.  The  evening  was  mild  and 
clear  ;  we  made  a  pleasant  bed  of  the  young  willows  ;  and  geese  and  ducks 
enough  had  been  killed  for  an  abundant  supper  at  night,  and  for  breakfast 
the  next  morning.  The  stillness  of  the  night  was  enlivened  by  millions  of 
water  fowl.     Latitude  (by  observation)  41°  11'  26  ' ;  and  longitude  112° 

irso". 

September  9. — The  day  was  clear  and  calm  ;  the  thermometer  at  sunrise 
at  49°.  As  is  usual  with  the  trappers  on  the  eve  of  any  entei  prise,  our  peo- 
ple had  made  dreams,  and  theirs  happened  to  be  a  bad  one — one  which  al- 
ways preceded  evil — and  consequently  they  looked  very  gloomy  this  morn- 
ing ;  but  we  hurried  through  our  breakfast,  in  order  to  make  an  early  start, 
and  have  all  the  day  before  us  for  our  adventure.  The  channel  in  a  short 
distance  became  so  shallow  that  our  navigation  was  at  an  end,  being  merely 
a  sheet  of  soft  mud,  with  a  few  inches  of  water,  and  sometimes  none  at  all, 
forming  the  low-water  shore  of  the  lake.  All  this  place  was  abrolutely 
covered  with  flocks  of  screaming  plover.  We  took  of!  our  clothes,  and, 
getting  overboard,  commenced  dragging  the  boat — making,  by  this  opera- 
tion, a  very  curious  trail,  and  a  veiy  disagreeable  smell  in  stirring  up  the 
raud,  as  we  sank  above  the  knee  at  every  step.  The  water  here  was  still 
fresh,  with  only  an  insipid  and  disagreeable  taste,  probably  derived  from  the 
bed  of  fetid  mud.  After  proceeding  in  this  way  about  a  mile,  we  came  to 
a  small  black  ridge  on  the  bottom,  beyond  which  the  water  became  sud- 
denly salt,  beginning  gradually  to  deepen,  and  the  bottom  was  sandy  and 
firm.  It  was  a  remarkable  division,  separating  the  fresh  water  of  the  rivers 
from  the  briny  wat 'r  of  the  lake,  which  was  entirely  saturated  with  com- 
mon salt.  Pushing  our  little  vessel  across  the  narrow  boundary,  we  sprang 
on  board,  and  at  length  were  afloat  on  the  waters  of  the  unknown  sea. 

We  did  not  steer  for  the  mountainous  islands,  but  directecf  our  course  to- 
wards a  lower  one,  which  it  had  been  decided  we  should  first  visit,  the 
summit  of  which  was  formed  like  the  crater  at  the  upper  end  of  Bear  river 
valley.  So  long  as  we  could  touch  the  bottom  with  our  paddles,  we  were 
very  gay  ;  but  gradually,  as  the  water  deepened,  we  became  more  still  in 

I!  our  frail  batteau  of  gum  cloth  distended  with  air,  and  with  pasted  seams. 
\  Although  the  day  was  very  calm,  there  was  a  considerable  swell  on  the 
I   lake  ;  and  there  were  white  patches  of  foam  on  the  surface,  which  were 
^  slowly  moving  to  the  southward,  indicating  the  set  of  a  current  in  thatdi- 
•  rection,  and  recalling  the  recollection  of  the  whirlpool  stories.  The  water 


\V. 


138 


CAPT.  FKEMONT.^  .XAKRATIV  i:. 


[1843 


I 


y?;-.. 


continued  to  dcopon  as  wo  advanced  ;  the  lak(^  becoming  almost  transpa- 
rently clear,  of  an  exfreinely  beautiful  bii^htj^rcen  color;  and  tlie  spray, 
which  was  thrown  into  the  boat  and  over  our  clothes,  was  directly  con- 
verted into  a  crii.it  of  common  salt,  which  covered  also  our  hands  and  artna. 
"  •Ja|)tain,"  said  ('arson,  who  for  sonu;  time  had  been  looking  suspiciously 
at  some  whiteninjj;  a])pearances  outside  the  nearest  islands,  "  what  arc  those 
yonder  ? — won't  you  just  take  a  look  with  the  glass  ?''  We  ceased  paddling 
for  a  moment,  and  found  them  to  be  the  caps  of  the  waves  that  were  begin- 
ning to  break  undef  the  force  of  a  strong  breeze  that  was  coming  up  the 
lake.  The  form  of  the  boat  seemed  to  be  an  admirable  one,  and  it  rode  on 
the  waves  like  a  w  ifer  bird  ;  but,  at  the  sanie  time,  it  was  extremely  slow  in 
its  progress.  When  we  were  a  little  more  than  half  way  across  the  reach, 
two  of  the  divisions  between  the  cylinders  gave  way,  and  it  required  the 
constant  use  of  the  bellows  to  keep  in  a  sulliciont  quantity  of  air.  For  a 
long  time  we  scarcely  seemed  to  approach  our  island,  but  gradually  we 
worked  across  the  rougher  sea  of  the  open  channel,  into  the  smoother  water 
under  the  lee  of  the  island  ;  and  began  to  discover  that  what  we  took  for 
a  long  row  of  pelicans,  ranged  on  the  beach,  were  only  low  cliffs  whitened 
with  salt  by  the  spray  of  the  waves  ;  and  about  noon  we  reached  the  shore, 
the  transparency  of  the  water  enabling  us  to  see  the  bottom  at  a  consider- 
able depth. 

It  was  a  handsome  broad  beach  where  we  landed,  behind  which  the  hill. 
into  which  the  island  was  gathered,  rose  somewhat  abruptly  ;  and  a  point 
of  rock  at  one  end  enclosed  it  in  a  sheltering  way  ;  and  as  there  was  an 
abundance  of  drift  wood  along  the  shore,  it  offered  us  a  pleasant  encamp- 
ment. We  did  not  suffer  our  fragile  boat  to  touch  the  sharp  rocks;  but, 
getting  overboard,  discharged  the  baggage,  and,  lifting  it  gently  out  of  the 
water,  carried  it  to  the  upper  part  of  the  beach,  which  was  composed  ot 
very  small  fragments  of  rock. 

Among  the  successive  banks  of  the  beach,  formed  by  the  action  of  the 
waves,  our  attention,  as  we  approached  the  island,  had  been  attracted  b) 
one  10  to  20  feet  in  breadth,  of  a  dark-brown  color.  Being  more  closely 
examined,  this  was  found  to  be  composed,  to  the  depth  of  seven  or  eight 
and  twelve  inches,  entirely  of  the  larvtb  of  insects,  or,  in  common  language, 
of  the  skins  of  Avorms,  about  the  size  of  a  grain  of  oats,  which  had  been 
washed  .p  by  the  waters  of  the  lake. 

Alluding  to  this  subject  some  monthsafterwards,  when  travelling  through 
a  more  southern  portion  of  this  region,  in  company  with  Mr.  Joseph  Walker, 
an  old  hunter,  1  was  informed  by  him,  that,  wandering  with  a  party  of  men 
in  a  mountain  country  east  of  the  great  Californian  range,  he  surprised  a 
party  of  several  Indian  families  encamped  near  a  small  salt  lake,  who  aban- 
doned their  lodges  at  his  approach,  leaving  every  thing  behind  them.  Be- 
ing in  a  starving  condition,  they  were  delighted  to  find  in  the  abandoned 
lodges  a  number  of  skin  bags,  containing  a  quantity  of  what  appeared  to  be 
fish,  dried  and  pounded.  On  this  they  made  a  hearty  supper  ;  and  were 
gathering  around  an  abundantbreakfastthe  next  morning,  when  Mr.  Walker 
discovered  that  it  was  with  these,  or  a  similar  worm,  that  the  bags  had  been 
filled.  The  stomachs  of  the  stout  trappers  were  not  proof  against  their  pre- 
judices, and  the  repulsive  food  was  suddenly  rejected.  Mr.  Walker  had 
further  opportunities  of  seeing  these  worms  used  as  an  article  of  food  ;  and 
I  am  inclined  to  think  they  are  the  same  as  those  we  saw,  and  appear  to  be 


[1843  m  1843.] 


CAIT.   h'KKMoNT'S  NAHKATIVE. 


139 


ir  :.^4- 


most  transpa* 
ni\  the  spray, 
directly  con- 
ids  and  arms. 
;  suspiciously 
,'hat  arc  those 
ised  paddling 
I  were  begin. 
3ining  up  the 
ind  it  lodc  on 
jraely  slow  in 
Dss  the  reach, 
required  the 
if  air.  For  a 
gradually  we 
Qoother  water 
t  we  took  for 
lifTs  whitened 
led  the  shore, 
at  a  consider- 

vhich  the  hill. 
;  and  a  point 
there  was  an 
isant  encamp- 
rp  rocks ;  but, 
itly  out  of  the 
composed  ol 

action  of  the 
1  attracted  b) 

more  closely 
even  or  eight 
lion  language, 

ich  had  been 

elling  through 

seph  Walker, 

party  of  men 

e  surprised  a 

te,  who  aban- 

1  them.     Be- 

e  abandoned 

ppeared  to  be 

er ;  and  were 

n  Mr.  Walker 

ags  had  been 

nst  their  pre- 

.  Walker  had 

of  food  ;  and 

appear  to  be 


t  product  of  the  sail  luUcs.  It  may  be  well  to  ro call  to  your  mind  that  Mr. 
Walker  was  associated  with  Captain  Hnnnovilb'  in  his  expedition  to  tlio 
Kooky  mountains;  ami  has  niiice  that  tiiiio  rcrnaiiicd  in  the  country,  gen- 
erally rcbiding  in  some  one  of  the  Snake  villigos,  when  not  engaged  in  one 
of  his  numerous  trapping  expeditions,  in  which  he  is  celebrated  as  one  of 
(he  best  and  bravest  loailcrs  who  have  ever  been  in  the  country. 

The  dills  and  masses  of  rock  along  the  shore  were  whitened  by  an  in- 
crustation of  salt  where  the  waves  dashed  up  against  them  ;  and  the  evap- 
orating water,  which  had  been  left  in  holes  and  hollows  on  the  surface  of 
the  rocks,  was  covered  with  a  crust  of  salt  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in 
thickness.  It  appeared  strange  that,  in  the  midst  of  this  grand  reservoir,  one 
of  our  greatest  wants  lately  bad  been  salt.  Exjiosed  to  be  more  perfectly 
dried  in  the  sun,  this  became  veiy  white  and  fine,  having  the  usual  llavor 
ol"  very  excellent  common  salt,  without  any  foreign  taste  ;  but  only  a  little 
was  collected  for  present  use,  as  there  was  in  it  a  number  of  small  black 
insects. 

Carrying  with  us  the  barometer  and  other  instruments,  in  the  afternoon 
we  ascended  to  the  highest  point  of  the  island — a  bare  rocky  peak,  800  feet 
above  the  lake.  Standing  on  the  summit,  we  enjoyed  an  extended  view  of 
the  lake,  enclosed  in  a  basin  of  rugged  mountains,  which  sometimes  left 
marshy  flats  and  extensive  bottoms  between  thetn  and  the  shore,  and  in  other 
places  came  directly  down  into  the  water  with  bold  and  precipitous  bluffs. 
Following  with  our  glasses  the  irregular  shores,  we  searched  for  some  in- 
dications of  a  communication  with  other  bodies  of  water,  or  the  entrance  of 
other  rivers  ;  but  the  distance  was  so  great  that  we  could  make  out  nothing 
with  certainty.  To  the  southward,  several  peninsular  mountains,  3,000  or 
4,000  feet  high,  entered  the  lake,  appearing,  so  far  as  the  distance  and  our 
position  enabled  us  to  determine,  to  be  connected  by  (lats  and  low  ridges 
with  the  mountains  in  the  rear.  These  are  probably  the  islands  usually  indica- 
ted on  maps  of  this  region  as  entirely  detached  from  the  shore.  The  season  of 
our  operations  was  when  the  waters  were  at  their  lowest  stage.  At  the  season 
of  high  waters  in  the  spring,  it  is  probable  that  the  marshes  and  low  grounds 
are  overflowed,  and  the  surface  of  the  lake  considerably  greater.  In  several 
places  the  view  was  of  unlimited  extent — here  and  there  a  rocky  islet  ap- 
pearing above  the  water  at  a  great  distance  ;  and  beyond,  every  thing  was 
vague  and  undefined.  As  we  looked  over  the  vast  expanse  of  water  spread 
out  beneath  us,  .and  strained  our  eyes  along  the  silent  shores  over  which 
hung  so  much  doubt  and  uncertainty,  and  which  were  so  full  of  interest  to 
us,  1  could  hardly  repress  the  almost  irresistible  desire  to  continue  our  ex- 
ploration ;  but  the  lengthening  snow  on  the  mountains  was  a  plain  indica- 
tion of  the  advancing  season,  and  our  frail  linen  boat  appeared  so  insecure 
that  I  was  unwilling  to  trust  our  lives  to  the  uncertainties  of  the  lake.  I 
therefore  unwillingly  resolved  to  terminate  our  survey  here,  and  remain  sat- 
isfied for  the  present  with  what  we  had  been  able  to  add  to  the  unknown 
geography  of  the  region.  We  felt  pleasure  also  in  remembering  that  we 
were  the  first  who,  in  the  traditionary  annals  of  the  country,  had  visited  the 
islands,  and  broken,  with  the  cheerful  sound  of  human  voices,  the  long  sol- 
itude of  the  place.  From  the  point  where  we  were  standing,  the  ground 
fell  off  on  every  si'^e  to  the  water,  giving  us  a  perfect  view  of  the  island, 
which  is  twelve  or  iiiirteen  miles  in  circumference,  being  simply  a  rocky 
hill,  on  which  there  is  niether  water  nor  trees  of  any  kind ;  although  the 


ti 


i 


MO 


CAPT.  FFIEMONTH  NARUATIVn. 


[1843. 


!:-:/ 


cVf 


k.)' 


'A,   %;V    .', 


Frenwnlia  vermicular  is  ^  whicli  was  in  guMt  abundance,  ini^ht  easily  be 
mistaken  for  timber  at  a  distance.  Tho  plant  scented  here  to  delight  in  a 
congenial  air,  growing  in  extraordinary  luxuriance  seven  to  eight  feet  high, 
and  was  very  abund;int  on  the  upper  part!:!  ol'  the  inland,  whire  it  was  aU  ) 
nio!!>t  the  only  plant.  This  is  eminently  a  saline  shrub  ;  its  leaves  have  a 
very  salt  taste  ;  and  it  luxuriates  in  saline  soils,  where  it  is  usually  a  char- 
acteristic. It  is  widely  ditluscd  over  all  this  country.  A  chenopodiaceous 
shrub,  which  is  a  new  species  ol  oimonk,  (().  rigida,  Ton .  \  Frcm^ }  was 
ecpially  characteristic  ol  the  lower  puns  of  the  island.  Tlicse  two  are  th(> 
striking  plants  on  the  island,  and  belong  to  a  class  ol  plants  which  lorin  a 
prominent  feature  in  the  vegetation  of  this  country.  On  the  lower  parts  ol 
the  island,also,aprickly  pear  of  very  large  si/e  was  frecpient.  On  the  shore, 
near  the  water,  was  a  woolly  species  oi  p/iacd  ;  and  a  new  species  of  um- 
belliferous plant  {leptota'tnia)  was  scattered  about  in  very  considerable 
abundance.  These  constituted  all  tiic  vegetation  that  now  appeared  upon 
the  island. 

I  accidentally  left  on  the  sniumit  the  brass  cover  to  the  object  end  of  my 
spy  glass  ;  and  as  it  will  probably  remain  there  undisturbed  by  Indians,  it 
will  furnish  matter  of  s])eculation  to  some  futuie  travcllei.  In  our  excur- 
sions about  the  island,  we  did  not  meet  with  any  kind  of  animal ;  a  mag- 
pie, and  another  larger  bird,  probably  attracted  by  the  smoke  of  our  fire, 
})aid  us  a  visit  from  the  shore,  and  were  the  only  living  things  seen  during 
our  stay.  The  rock  constituting  the  clitls  along  the  shore  where  wc  were 
encamped,  is  a  talcous  rock,  or  stealite,  with  brown  spar. 

At  sunset,  the  temperature  was  70*^.  We  had  arrived  just  in  time  to  ob- 
tain a  meridian  altitude  of  the  sun,  and  other  observations  were  obtained 
this  evening,  which  place  our  camp  in  latitude  41*-'  10'  42  ",  and  longitude 
112*  21'  05"  from  Greenwich.  From  a  discussion  of  thu  barometrical  ob- 
servations made  during  oui-  stay  on  the  shores  of  the  lake,  we  have  adopted 
4,200  feet  for  its  elevation  above  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  In  the  first  disap- 
pointment we  felt  from  the  dissipation  of  our  dream  of  the  fertile  islands,  I 
called  tltis  Disappointment  islatid. 

Out  of  the  diiftwood,we  made  ourselves  pleasant  little  lodges,  open  to 
the  water,  and,  after  having  kindled  large  fires  to  excite  the  wonder  of  any 
straggling  savage  on  the  lake  shores,  lay  down,  for  the  first  time  in  a  long 
journey,  in  perfect  security  ;  no  one  thinking  about  his  arms.  The  even- 
ing was  extremely  bright  and  pleasant ;  but  the  wind  rose  during  the  niglit, 
and  the  waves  began  to  break  heavily  on  the  shore,  making  our  island 
tremble.  1  had  not  expected  in  our  inland  journey  to  hear  the  roar  of  an 
ocean  surf;  and  the  strangeness  of  our  situation,  and  the  excitement  we 
felt  in  the  associated  interests  of  the  place,  made  this  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting nights  I  remember  during  our  long  expedition. 

In  the  morning,  the  surf  was  breaking  heavily  on  the  shore,  and  wc 
were  up  early.  The  lake  was  dark  and  agitated,  and  we  hurried  through 
our  scanty  breakfast,  and  embarked — having  first  filled  one  of  the  buckets 
with  water  from  the  lake,  of  which  it  was  intended  to  make  salt.  The 
sun  had  risen  by  the  time  we  were  ready  to  start;  and  it  was  blowing  a 
strong  gale  of  wind,  almost  directly  off  the  shore,  and  raising  a  consider- 
able sea,  in  which  our  boat  strained  very  much.  It  roughened  as  we  got 
away  from  the  island,  and  it  required  all  the  efforts  of  the  men  to  make 
any  head  against  the  wind  and  sea  ;  the  gale  rising  with  the  sun,  and  there 


♦  APT.   FUKMONT'S  .\.\HK ATIVK. 


I  tl 


^ht  easily  be 
o  delight  in  a 
iglit  feet  higli, 
ere  it  was  aU 
leaves  have  a 
sually  a  char- 
iiopodiaceous 
•  Frem.,)  was 
ie  two  are  thrt 
which  lorm  a 
lower  parts  ol 
On  the  shore, 
pecies  of  urn- 
considerable 
ppcarcd  upon 

jcct  end  of  my 
by  Indians,  it 
In  our  excur- 
liinal ;  u  mag' 
ke  of  our  fire, 
is  seen  during 
here  we  were 

in  time  to  ob- 

wero  obtained 

and  longitude 

romctrical  ob- 

'lave  adopted 

le  fust  disap- 

tile  islands,  I 

)dges,  open  to 
onder  of  any 
time  in  a  long 
The  even- 
ng  the  night, 
our  island 
the  roar  of  an 
xcitement  we 
the  most  lii- 

lore,  and  we 
rried  through 
f  the  buckets 
^0  salt.  The 
as  blowing  a 
ig  a  consider- 
ed as  we  got 
men  to  make 
suu,  and  there 


"S 


was  danger  of  being  blown  into  one  of  thn  opm  rrarhrs  beyond  the  island. 
At  (he  distance  of  half  a  inile  from  the  beach,  llu;  dtptb  of  water  was  IG 
feet,  y^itli  a  clay  bottom  ;  but,  as  the  working  of  the  boat  was  very  severe 
labor,  and  during  the  opeiation  of  rounding  it  wa:)  necessary  to  cease  pad- 
dling, during  which  the  boat  lost  considerable  way,  I  was  unwilling  to  dis- 
courago  the  men,  and  reluctantly  gave  up  my  intention  of  ascertaining  (lie 
depth,  and  the  character  of  the  bed.  Thcte  was  a  general  shout  ifi  the 
boat  when  we  found  ourselves  in  one  fathom,  and  we  soon  after  landed  on 
a  low  point  of  mud,  immediately  under  the  hutfc  of  the  peninsula,  where 
we  unloaded  the  boat,  and  carried  the  baggage  about  a  (i:arter  of  a  mile  to 
firmer  ground.  We  arrived  just  in  time  for  meriditm  observation,  and 
carried  the  barometer  to  the  summit  of  the  butte,  which  is  500  feet  above 
the  lake.  Mr.  I'reuss  set  oil' on  foot  for  the  camp,  which  was  about  nine 
miles  distant;  Basil  accompanying  him,  to  bring  back  horses  lor  the  boat 
and  baggage. 

The  rude-looking  shelter  we  raised  on  the  shore,  our  scattered  baggage 
and  boat  lying  on  the  beach,  made  quite  a  picture  ;  and  we  called  this  the 
Fisherman's  camp.  Lynosiris  gravcohns^  and  another  new  species  ol 
oBioNE,  (O.  conlcrtifolia — Torr.  ^'  Frem.,)  were  growing  on  the  low 
grounds,  with  interspersed  spots  of  an  unwholesome  suit  grass,  on  a  saline 
flay  soil,  with  a  few  other  plants. 

The  horses  arrived  late  in  the  afternoon,  by  which  time  the  gale  had 
increased  to  such  a  height  that  a  man  could  scaicely  stand  before  it ;  ami 
we  were  obliged  to  pack  our  baggage  hastily,  as  the  rising  water  of  the 
I'lke  had  already  reached  the  point  where  we  were  halted.  Looking  back 
as  we  rode  oil",  we  found  the  place  of  recent  encampment  entirely  covered. 
The  low  plain  through  which  we  rode  to  the  camp  was  covered  with  a 
compact  growth  of  shrubs  of  extraordinary  size  and  luxuriance.  The  soil 
was  sandy  and  saline  ;  flat  places,  resemblini!;  the  beds  of  ponds,  that  were 
bare  of  vegetation,  and  covered  witli  a  powdery  vvliite  alts,  being  inter- 
spersed among  the  shrubs.  Artemisia  trideitata  ^/as  very  abundant,  but 
the  plants  were  principally  saline  ;  a  large  and  vigorous  chenopodiaceous 
shrub,  five  to  eight  feet  high,  being  characteristic,  with  Premontia  vermicu- 
laris,  and  a  shrubby  plant  which  seems  to  be  a  new  salicornia.  We  reached 
the  camp  in  time  to  escape  a  thunder  storm  which  blackened  the  sky,  and 
were  received  with  a  discharge  of  the  howitzer  by  the  people,  who,  bavin:'; 
been  unable  to  see  any  thing  of  us  on  the  lake,  had  begun  f,o  feel  some 
uneasiness. 

September  11. — To-day  we  remained  at  this  camp,  in  order  '  obtain 
some  further  observations,  and  to  boil  -I'^wn  the  water  which  had  been 
brought  from  the  lake,  for  a  supply  of  sait.  Roughly  evaporated  over  the 
fire,  the  five  gallons  of  water  yielded  fourteen  jiints  of  very  fine-grained 
and  very  white  salt,  of  which  the  whole  lake  may  be  regarded  as  a  saturat- 
ed solution.  A  portion  of  the  salt  thus  obtained  has  been  subjected  to 
analysis — giving,  in  100  parts,  the  following  proportions  : 


Analysis  of  the  salt. 


Chloride  of  sodium,  (common  salt) 
Chloride  of  calcium 
Cloridc  of  magnesium 


97.80 
0.61 
0.24 


';•'■: 


>:,*    ,' 


f  =  l 


v.-'  ft. 


,.     y 


li'-  •* 


Wi^': 


-^*' 


142 

Sulphato  of  Moda 
Sulpliuti-  uf  lime 


.  CAFT.  FREMONTH  NAUIIATIVK. 


Lll|4S. 


100.00 


(tlancin^  your  eye  uloti^  the  iiiii|),  you  will  sec  a  siiiull  .^lioniii  entering 
the  Utah  lake,  south  ol  (he  Spariinh  lorU,  uiid  the  lust  waters  ot  thni  lukt* 
which  our  roud  ol  I  Hit  cronstrs  in  couiin^  up  Iroiu  (i.e  souihwuid.  VVhi  n 
I  was  on  this  stream  uilh  Mi.  Walker  in  that  year,  he  ititoiiti'd  me  that  on 
the  upp(>r  part  oIiIk.'  river  are  immense  ho.ih  ol  rot  k  salt  ot  very  ^r^?at  tl.ick- 
ness,  which  he  hud  Irequetilly  visited.  Farlh(!r  to  the  m  iitlnvard,  tlH>  i  ivers 
which  are  adiuent  to  (lie  Colorado,  such  as  the  Hio  Vir^en,  and  (iila  river, 
near  their  mouths,  are  imf>ic^naled  with  salt  l>y  (he  clill's  ol  rock  suit  he- 
twccn  which  lliey  pas.s.  'riiese  mines  occur  in  the  same  ridge  in  which, 
ahout  120  miles  to  the  northward, and  suhsecjuendy  in  iheii  more  immediate 
neighhorliood,  we  di.'icoveied  (he  fossils  helon|;in^  (o  (he  oolitic  period,  and 
they  are  prohahly  connected  wi(h  that  lornialion,  and  are  the  depositc  Jrom 
whicit  the  (ireat  Lake  olxain-s  its  salt.  Had  we  remained  loader,  we  should 
have  I'ound  them    ii  its  hed,  and  in  the  mountains  aiuund  its  shores. 

By  ohservation,  the  la(i(ude  of  this  camp  is  41^  15'  50  ",  and  longitude 
112''  OG'  43". 

The  observations  made  during  our  stay  give  for  the  rate  of  the  chro- 
nometer 31  ".72,  coMeh|>on(liiig  almost  exactly  with  (he  rate  obtained 
at  St.  Vrain's  fort.  liaiometrical  observations  were  made  hourly  during 
the  day.  This  morning  we  breakfasted  on  yampali,  and  had  only  kama!) 
for  supper;  but  a  cup  of  good  coll'ee  still  distinguished  us  from  ouv  JJi/^ger 
acijuaintances. 

September  12. — The  morning  was  clear  and  calm,  with  a  temperature 
at  sunrise  of  32*'.  We  resumed  our  journey  late  in  tiie  day,  reluming  by 
nearly  the  same  route  which  we  had  travelled  in  coining  to  the  lake  ;  and, 
avoiding  the  passage  of  Hawthorn  creek,  struck  the  hills  a  little  below  the 
liot  salt  springs.  The  flat  plain  wc  had  here  passed  over  consisted  alter- 
nately of  tolerably  good  .sandy  soil  and  of  saline  j)lats.  We  encamped 
early  on  Clear  creek,  at  the  foot  of  the  high  ridge  ;  one  of  the  peaks  of 
which  we  ascertained  by  measurement  to  be  4,210  feet  above  the  lake,  or 
about  8,400  feet  above  (he  sea.  liehind  these  Iroui  peak.s  the  ridge  rises 
towards  the  Bear  river  mountains,  which  are  probably  as  high  as  (he  Wind 
river  chain.  This  creek  is  here  unusually  well  timbeied  with  a  variety  of 
trees.  Among  (hem  weie  biich(ftc<M/a,)  the  ni  row-leaved  poplar  {populus 
an^^usli/oUa,)  sc\cvi\\  kinds  of  willow  {salix,)  hawthorn  {crateegus,)  al- 
der {alnus  viridis,)  and  ccrasus,  with  an  oak  allied  to  (juercus  alba^  but 
very  distinct  from  that  or  any  other  species  in  the  United  States. 

We  had  to-night  a  supper  of  sea  gulls,  w  hich  Carson  killed  near  the  lake. 
Although  cool,  the  thcrnjometer  standing  at  47'',musquitoes  were  sulDcient- 
ly  numerous  to  be  troublesome  this  evening. 

September  13. — Continuing  up  the  river  valley,  we  crossed  several  small 
streams  ;  the  racuntalns  on  (he  right  appearing  to  consist  ol  the  blue  lime- 
stone, which  we  had  observed  in  the  same  ridge  to  the  northward,  alternat- 
ing here  with  a  granular  quartz  already  mentioned.  One  of  these  streams, 
which  forms  a  smaller  lake  near  the  river,  was  broken  up  into  several  chan- 
nels ;  and  the  irrigated  bottom  of  fertile  soil  was  covered  witli  innutnerable 
flowers,  among  which  weie  purple  fields  of  cupatoriurn purpurcuni,  with 


[1941  ■  1943] 


•  •APT.  I'Ur.MONT'M  NAKKATIVE. 


143 


•^      >•     0.8$ 
-      lit 


100.00 


Btin  cDtering 
i  of  thai  luke 
ivaid.  VVhtn 
il  inn  that  on 
Y  Hi«?at  tl.ick- 
t(l,  thr*  rivers 
iti  (iila  river, 
rock  HuU  he- 
\\rv  ill  which, 
10  i  mined  into 
ic  p('i'iud,and 
(U'posite  IVoin 
er,  we  shouhl 
shores, 
uul  longitude 

of  the  chlo- 
rate obtained 
loutly  duiin|!; 
(1  only  Uanii'i!) 
in  om  JJif^ge I 

1  teinpeiatuie 

,  leliirningl)} 

(■  lake  ;  and, 

lie  below  the 

nsisled  alter- 

e  encamped 

the  peaks  of 

e  the  luke,  or 

»c  lidgc  rises 

\  as  the  Wind 

I  a  variety  of 

)lar  {populus 

raiccf^us^)  al- 

us  albOy  but 

ales. 

icar  the  lake. 
?ro  sufficient- 
several  small 
le  blue  lime- 
ard,  alternat- 
hese  streams, 
several  chan- 
innutnerable 
mrcunXy  will' 


bellaiithfv  A  haiidsomf!  f«olida^o  {S.  canadenaia^)  nnd  a  variety  of  other 
plant.M  in  bloom.  (Jontiiiuin^  alon^  the  foot  of  the  hill<4,  in  tint  uflc'rnoon 
we  found  five  or  b\\  hot  .sprin^t  ^u^•hin^out  toKciher,  bi  neath  u  (on^lomc• 
rate,  consisting  principally  of  Irai^mcnlsof  a^rayish-blu(;  limciiionc,  <  lllor- 
eicing  n  salt  upon  the  .Mirfat  e.  The  temperature  of  these  .springs  waH  l.'J4', 
tnd  the  rocks  in  the  bed  \\<'ti'  colored  with  :i  red  depo.site,  and  there  was 
common  salt  crystalli/od  on  the  margin.  There  was  alMi  a  white  inciu.^t- 
ation  ii[>on  loaves  and  loots,  coiii^iMting  principally  of  laibonate  ot  lime. 
There  were  rushes  seen  alonj;  the  ri»ad  this  afternoon,  and  the  .soil  under 
(lie  hills  was  very  black,  and  apparently  very  good  ;  btit  at  this  time  tho 
•jrass  IS  entirely  dried  up.  WC  nuriinpi  d  on  Mear  river,  iinm<(liately  be  low 
a  cut-ufl',  the  canon  by  which  th(>  liver  enters  this  valley  bijiin^  iioith  by 
compass.  The  night  was  tnild,  with  a  very  clear  sky  ;  and  I  obtained  a 
very  excellent  observation  of  an  occuUation  of  Tuu.'  Arietis,  with  other  ob- 
servations. IJolh  immersion  and  emersion  of  the  star  wt.'ie  observed  ;  but, 
as  our  observations  have  shown,  the  phase;  atthebriglit  lind)j;iii(  rally  gives 
incorrect  longitudes,  and  we  have  adopted  the  result  obtained  from  the 
emersion  at  the  dark  limb,  without  allowing  any  weight  to  the  immersion. 
Accoiding  to  these  ob.seiv.ilions,  lh(  longitude  is  1 1  J  <>.'»  12  ,  and  the  lati- 
tilde  41  42'  43'.  All  the  longitudes  on  the  line  of  our  outward  journey, 
between  St.  V'rain's  fort  and  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbi.i,  which  were  not 
directly  determined  by  satellites,  have  been  ehronometrically  referred  to 
this  place. 

The  people;  to-day  were  rather  low-spirited,  hunger  making  them  very 
quiet  and  peaceable  ;  and  th'ie  was  rarely  an  oath  to  be  lieaiil  in  th(!  camp — 
not  even  a  solitary  enfant  (ft  qarcc.  It  was  time  for  the  men  with  an  ex- 
pected supply  of  provisions  from  I'Mtzpatrick  to  be  in  the  neighboihooil ;  and 
the  gun  was  fired  at  evening,  to  give  them  notice  of  our  locality,  but  met 
with  no  respon.s(.'. 

September  14. — .\bout  foui  miles  fioin  this  encampment,  the  trail  led  us 
down  to  the  river,  where  wc  unexpectedly  found  uri  excellent  ford — the 
stream  being  widened  by  an  iidand,  and  not  yet  disengaged  from  the  hills 
at  the  foot  of  the  range.  Wc  cncam|)ed  on  a  little  creek  wlnie  wc  had 
made  a  noon  halt  in  descending  the  river.  The  night  was  very  clear  and 
pleasant,  the  sunset  lemperatuic  being  G7*'. 

The  people  this  evening  looked  so  forlorn,  that  I  gav<.'  them  permission  to 
kill  a  fat  young  horse  whicli  I  had  purchased  with  goods  from  the  Snake 
Indians,  and  they  were  very  soon  restored  to  gayety  and  good  humor.  Mr. 
Preussaud  myself  could  not  yet  overcome  some  remains  of  civilized  preju- 
dices, and  preferred  to  st;:rvc  .i  little  longer  ;  feeling  as  much  saddened  as 
if  a  crin)e  had  been  coniiuilted. 

The  next  day  we  continued  up  the  valley,  the  soil  being  sometimes  very 
black  and  good,  occasionally  gravelly.,  and  occasionally  a  kind  of  naked 
salt  plains.  We  found  on  the  way  this  morning  a  small  encanipinent  of 
two  families  of  Snake  Indians,  [rem  whom  we  purchased  a  small  quantity 
of  kooyah.  They  had  piles  of  seeds,  of  throe  difTerent  kinds,  spread  out 
upon  pieces  of  buiialo  lobe  ;  and  the  squaws  had  just  gathered  about  a 
bushel  of  the  roots  of  a  thistle,  {circium  Virginianitm.)  'I'hey  were  about 
the  ordinary  size  of  carrots,  and,  as  I  have  previously  mentioned,  are  sweet 
and  well  flavored,  requiring  only  a  long  preparation.  They  had  a  band  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  horses,  and  appeared  to  be  growing  in  llie  sunshine  with 
about  as  little  labor  as  the  plants  they  were  eating. 


I 


'S» 


144 


CAPT.  FRKMONrw  NARRATIVE. 


[1A43.  K184 


t  I 


'■*.»*> ' 


Sliordy  alU'rwniiU  wv  tnnt  an  ItuiiMn  on  liomclKick  wli^  hnd  killed  «n 
•ntc'ope,  which  wu  puichiiMi'il  Ironi  hint  lot  n  liltin  |iow(lrr  and  <toint>  hidU. 
Wc  cidsitLMl  th(f  Nonoiiux,  und  enodiii|>(!d  on  th«>  Ivlt  hank  ;  huUin^  enrlv  for 
thr  pli>n*iiii  ('  ol  cnjo)  in^  u  h  hidrsonH-  and  ulmndattt  Niippn  ,  and  w  )loa|. 
onlly  c*ngiif{rd  in  ptotiai'tiriK  ocr  nnu.HUul  ronilotl,  \s\ivu  Tabcau  ^^.tilopcil 
into  (ho  camp  uilh  \\rwn  (hat  Mr.  Fi(/pa(ii(k  was  rncompcd  clutto  hy  us, 
wi(h  a  ^ood  supply  ol  ptoviitions — fh)iii,  rifc,  and  diii>d  meat,  and  t'VcH  u 
little  hnttn.  Kxcitrnirnt  to•ni^h(  made  ws  all  \vak<>(iit ;  and  alter  a  hroak* 
fast  hclttre  sunriNc  (he  next  moining,  wc  wtMc  a^aiti  on  the  road,  and,  cut. 
tinning  op  the  valley,  crosstMl  8om(>  hi^h  points  ol  liillH,  and  halted  (o  nooi 
on  the  same  streim,  near  80V(  ral  lod^i's  of  Snake  Indians,  iron)  whom  v,o 
purcliased  uliout  a  huslxd  olNervice  l)eiri(!s,p:irtially  dritMl.  By  the  {^ift  el 
a  knite,  I  prevaile<t  npon  a  little  hoy  to  show  me  iUv.  kooyah  plant,  whicf. 

I)K)ved  (o  lie  vaUiiann  e^iulh.    The  mh)I,  which  confc(itute»  ihv.  kootjafi^M 
arye,  of  a  very  hi ij^ht  yellow  color,  with  (he  <  haracteiistic  odor,  hut  not  m 
fully  developed  ns  in  the  prepared  suhstance.     It  loves  the  rich  moiiit  soil 
of  river  hottonis,  wliith  was  the  locality  in  which  I  always  tfterwards  fouihi 
it.     It  was  now  entirely  oulol  bloom  ;  according  to  my  oh9crvation,nowei- 
ing  in  (he  mondis  of  May  and  June.     In  (he  alternoon  we  entered  a  lon^ 
ravine  leadinir  to  a  pass  in  ^hc  dividing  ridge  hetwecn  the  waters  of  Bear 
liver  and  the  Snake  river,  <»r  Leu  isN  folk  of  (he  (]olumhia  ;  our  way  hein^^ 
very  much  impeded,  and  almost  entirely  hlocked  up,  hy  compact  fields  ui 
luxuriant  artemisia.    Taking  leave  at  (his  point  of  (he  wa(ers  of  Bear  river, 
and  oi  (he geographical  hasin  which  ench)ses(he  sys(em  of  rivers  and  creeks- 
which  heloiig(<>  (he  (ireat  Salt  Lake,  and  which  so  richly  deseives  a  future 
detailed  and  ample  explota(i()n,  I  can  s;iy  ol   it,  in  general  terms,  that  the 
bottoms  of  this  river,  (  Bear,)  and  of  some  of  (he  creeks  which  I  saw,  form 
a  natural  reciting  and  lecruiting  station  for  travellers,  now,  and  in  all  time 
to  come.      The  bottoms  arc  extensive;  water  excelle"t ;  timber  suflicicnt ; 
the  soil  good,  and  well  adapted  to  the  grains  and  gt        s  suited  to  such  ar 
elevated  region.     \  military  post,  and  a  civilized  nent,  would  beol 

great  vaUu;  here;  and  cattle  and  horses  would  do  well  where  grass  and  salt 
$*o  much  abound.  The  lake  will  furnish  exiiaustless  supplies  of  salt.  All 
the  mountain  sides  Ix^re  are  covered  with  a  \  aluahle  nutri(iou8  grass,  called 
bunch  y;rass,  fiom  (he  form  in  which  it  aiows,  which  has  a  second  growth 
in  th(!  iail.  The  beasts  of  the  Indians  were  tat  upon  it ;  our  own  found  it 
a  good  f»ubsistenc(  ;  and  its  quantity  will  .sustain  any  amount  of  cattle,  and 
make  this  (ruly  a  bucolic  region. 

VVc  met  bore  an  Indian  family  on  hor 'eback,  which  had  been  out  to  g.)ther 
service  berries,  and  were  returning  loaded.  This  tree  was  scattered  about 
on  the  hills  ;  and  the  upper  part  of  the  pass  was  timbered  with  aspen  ;  (pop- 
ulus  trevi.,)  the  common  blue  flowering  flix  occurring  among  the  plants. 
The  approach  to  the  pass  was  very  steep  ;  and  the  summit  about  6,300  feet 
above  the  sea — probably  only  an  uncertain  appioximation,  as  at  the  time  of 
observation  it  was  blowing  a  violent  g.deol  wind  from  the  northwest,  with 
citrnM^t  scattered  in  masses  over  the  sky,  (he  day  otheiwise  bright  and  clear. 
We  descended,  by  a  steep  slope,  into  a  broad  open  valley — good  soil ;  from 
four  to  five  miles  v.ide  ;  coming  down  immediately  upon  one  of  the  head- 
waters of  the  Pannack  river,  which  here  loses  itself  in  swampy  ground. 
The  appearan-^e  of  the  country  here  is  not  very  interesting.  On  either  side 
is  a  regular  range  of  mountains  of  the  usual  character,  with  a  little  timber, 
tolerably  rocky  on  the  right,  and  higher  and  more  smooth  on  the  left,  with 


CAPT.  rm:\i().NT'«  nakuatin  r,. 


145 


cloM"  by  ii«, 

,  Ullli   V\Ct\    t 

fUT  a  l)reuk' 
ul,  and,  cor- 
iiltt'd  (o  nnot 
III  whom  \\t> 
\y  the  j;ift  of 
plant,  which 
w.  kootjah,  ii 
;)r,  hut  notiti 
ch  iiioiiit  soil 
rwards  found 
ition,  (lower* 
ttcrtul  a  lon^ 
itcfw  of  Bear 
ur  way  being 
pact  fields  ol 
»f  Hear  river, 
rs  and  creeki- 
ives  a  future 
rms,  that  the 
J  I  saw,  form 
d  in  all  tinu> 
r  suflicicnt ; 
d  to  such  ar, 
would  be  of 
rass  and  salt 
of  salt.     All 
;rass,  called 
cond  j;rowth 
own  found  it 
f  cattle,  and 

out  together 
ttered  about 
aspen  ;  (pop- 
g  the  plants. 
ut  6,300  feet 
It  the  time  of 
thwest,  with 
ht  and  clear. 
)d  soil ;  from 
of  the  head- 
mpy  ground, 
n  either  side 
little  timber, 
he  left,  with 


flill  higher  poiliH  ltM)kin)(  out  abovi*  thr  rangt>.  The  vulloy  ulVordt'd  ugoud 
Icfelroad  ;  but  it  was  lat*:  wlii'u  it  itrougbt  uh  to  water,  and  wir  cniMiiipi  d 
•idaik.  The  noilhwu.Ht  wind  It  td  bhiwn  up  voiy  iold  weather,  and  tho 
irteminia,  which  wart  our  firewood  lo-niglil,  did  not  h.i|iperi  (o  be  very 
abundant.  Thiii  plant  l(»ve<ta  dry,  sandy  !toil,and  c.mnotgrow  in  the  good 
W)(t<>iii*(  wlicre  it  ii  lich  and  nioisl,  but  on  eveiy  little  eminence,  where 
viixiri  il(Ks  not  rest  long,  it  niainluin8  ab^ulute  possession.  Klevation  above 
tin;  >e.i  about  5,100  feet. 

At  night  scattcnd  fires  gliiiiiiiered  along  iho  mountains,  pointing  out 
camps  ollbe  Indians  ;  and  we  contrasted  (be  compirativo  senility  in  which 
we  travelled  tbi(>ui!;b  this  countiy,  with  (he  guarded  vigilance  we  were  com* 
|iclled  to  exert  .iiiioiig  lliu  Siuux  and  other  indi.ms  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  Rocky  mountains. 

At  sunset  the  thermiirneter  was  at  jO^,  and  at  midnight  at  OO**'. 

Se/itcinhn'  17.  The  morning  sky  w.is  c.ilm  and  clear,  tlu;  temperature 
It  daylight  being  25*^,  and  at  sunrise  JO  .  Thuri;  is  throughout  this  mouii* 
lain  country  a  remarkable  (li!rer(>nc(!  between  the  morning  and  midday 
temperatures,  which  at  this  season  was  very  generally  10'  or  50',  and  oe- 
cusionally  greater;  and  Irecpieutly,  altera  very  frosty  morning,  th(!  heiit  in 
a  few  hours  would  reinlei  the  tbinnol  tlolhing  agi  o«!al)le.  About  noon  wo 
icached  tho  main  foik.  The  I'annack  livi  r  was  before  us  ;  tin*  valley  be- 
ing here  1  j  mile  wide,  fertile,  and  bordered  by  Miiooth  bills,  nut  over. 500 
li'f.'t  high,  partly  covered  with  cedar;  a  high  iidge,in  which  there  is  a 
promirunt  peak,  rising  beiiitid  tbos(!  on  the  Icli.  We  continued  to  descend 
this  stream,  and  loiirid  on  ii  at  night  a  waiin  and  comfortable  camp.  Flax 
occutred  so  ire(|uently  during  the  day  as  to  be  almost  a  ch.iractcristic,and 
the  soil  appeired  excellent.  The  opposite  hills  on  the  ri^fit  are  broken  hero 
into  a  great  variety  of  shapes.  "he  evening  was  gusty,  with  a  temperature 
at  sunset  of  50'.  I  obtained,  about  midniglit,  an  observation  of  an  emer- 
sion of  the  (irst  satellite  ;  the  night  being  calm  and  very  clear,  the  stars  re- 
iiiaikably  bright,  and  the  thermometer  at  30  .  Longitude,  from  mean  of 
siitellito  and  chronometer,  1 12^  2d  ol' ;  and  latitude,  by  observation,  43^ 

September  18. — The  day  clear  and  calm,  with  a  temperature  of  25"  at 
sunrise.  After  travelling  seven  or  eight  miles,  w  c  emerged  on  tho  plains  of 
the  Columbia,  in  sight  of  the  famous  *"  Three  Z?»/<<!«,"  a  well-known  land- 
mark in  the  countiy,  distint  about  15  miles.  The  French  word  hnttCj 
whicdi  so  often  oicurs  in  this  nartative,  is  retained  from  the  familiar  lan- 
guage of  the  country,  and  identifies  the  objects  to  which  it  refers.  It  is 
naturalized  in  the  region  of  the  KocUy  moiinlains  ;  and,  even  if  desirable  to 
render  it  in  English,  I  know  of  no  word  which  would  be  its  precise  c(juiv- 
alent.  It  is  applied  to  the  detached  hills  and  ridges  which  rise  abrujitly, 
and  reach  too  high  to  be  called  hills  or  ridges,  and  not  high  enough 
to  be  called  mountains.  Knoh^  as  applied  in  the  western  States,  is  their 
most  descriptive  term  in  English.  CVrro  is  the  Spanish  term  ;  hut  no 
translation,  or  paraphrasis,  would  preserve  tho  identity  of  these  picturesque 
landmarks,  familiar  to  the  traveller,  and  often  seen  at  a  great  distance. 
Covered  as  far  as  could  be  seen  with  artemisia,the  dark  and  ugly  appearance 
of  this  plain  obtained  for  it  the  name  of  the  Saii;e  Desert ;  and  we  were 
iig'eeably  surprised,  on  reaching  the  Poitiieuf  river,  to  see  a  beautiful  green 
valley  with  scattered  timber  spread  out  beneath  us,  on  which,  about  lour 
miles  distant,  were  glistening  the  white  walls  of  the  fort.  The  Portneuf 
10 


\M'X^^ 


&§<Hi 


14G  CAPT.  FKKMONTS  NARRATIVK.     ;        [1843.^ 

rins  along  (he  upland  plain  nearly  to  its  month,  and  an  abru^t^etcent  of 
pe.ha|)s  200  foe.  brought  us  down  icninodiately  upon  the  stream,  whiuh  at 
the  lord  is  100  yaids  wide  and  3  foot  deep,  with  clear  water,  a  swift  cur- 
rent, aiif'  gravelly  bed  ;  hut  a  little  hij^her  up  the  breadth  was  only  about] 
35  yartis,  with  appaienlly  dec p  water. 

In  the  bottom  1  icmatkod  a  very  groat  number  of  springs  and  sloughsj'^ 
with  remark?«b!y  clear  water  and  gravel  beds.  At  sunset  we  encamp  J  witt' 
Mr.  Talbot  and  our  friends,  who  came  on  to  P^ort  Hall  when  we  vvent  to 
the  lake,  and  whom  we  had  the  saliil'action  to  find  all  well,  neither  party 
having  met  witli  any  mittehancc  in  the  interval  of  our  separation.  I'hey, 
too,  had  had  their  share  of  fatigue  and  scanty  provisions,  as  there  had 
been  very  little  game  left  on  the  trail  of  the  populous  emigration  ;  and  Mr. 
Fif.^patrick  had  rigidly  hiis!)anded  our  stock  of  flour  and  light  provisions, 
in  view  of  the  approaching  winter  and  the  long  journey  before  us. 

Sep/emher  19.  —This  morning  the  sky  was  very  dark  and  gloomy,  and 
at  daylight  it  began  snowing  thickly,  and  continued  all  day,  with  cold,  ais- 
agreeable  weather.  At  sunrise  the  touipcrature  was  43°.  I  rode  up  to  the 
fort,  and  purchased  from  Mr.  Grant  (the  officer  in  charge  of  the  post)  sev- 
eral very  inditferent  horj.>s,  and  five  oxen  in  very  fine  order,  which  were 
receivod  at  the  camp  wit'i  great  satisfaction  ;  and,  one  being  killed  at  even- 
ing, the  usual  gayety  and  good  humor  were  at  once  .estored.  Night  came 
in  stormy. 

September  20. — We  had  a  night  of  snow  and  rain,  and  the  thermometer 
at  sunrise  was  at  34''"  ;  the  morning  was  dark,  with  a  steady  rain,  and  there 
was  still  an  inch  of  snov/  on  the  ground,  with  an  abundance  on  the  neigh- 
boring hills  and  mountains.  The  suddf  n  change  in  the  weather  was  hard 
for  our  animals,  who  trembled  and  shivered  in  the  cold — sometimes  taking 
refuge  in  the  timber,  and  now  and  then  coming  out  and  raking  the  snow 
ofi' the  ground  for  a  little  grass,  or  eating  the  young  willows. 

Septemher  2\ . — Ice  made  tolerably  thick  during  the  night,  and  in  the 
morning  the  weather  cleared  up  very  bright,  with  a  temperature  at  sunrise 
of  29®  ;  and  I  obtained  a  meridian  observation  for  latitude  at  the  fort,  with 
observations  for  time.  The  sky  was  again  covered  in  the  afternoon,  and 
the  thermometer  at  sunset  18*^. 

September  22. — The  morning  was  clotidy  and  unpleasant,  and  at  sunrise 
a  cold  rain  commenced,  with  a  temperature  of  41°. 

The  early  approach  of  winter,  and  the  difi^iculty  of  supporting  a  large 
party,  determined  me  to  send  jack  a  number  of  the  men  who  had  become 
satisfied  that  they  were  not  fitted  for  the  laborious  service  and  frequent  pri- 
vation to  which  they  were  necessarily  exposed,  and  which  there  was  reason 
to  believ3  would  become  more  severe  in  the  furtherextension  of  the  voyage. 
1  accordingly  called  them  together,  and.  informing  them  of  my  intention  to 
continue  our  jouiney  during  the  ensuing  winter,  in  the  course  of  which 
they  would  probably  be  exposed  to  considerable  hardship,  succeeded  in 
prevailin'5  upon  a  number  of  them  to  return  voluntarily.  These  were : 
Charles  De  Forrest,  Henry  Lee,  J.  Campbell,  VVm.  Creuss,  A.  Vasouez,  A. 
Pera,  Patrick  White,  B.  Tessoti,  M.  Creely,  Prangois  Lajeunesse,  Basil 
Lajeunesse.  Among  these,  I  regretted  very  much  to  lose  Basil  Lajeunesse, 
one  of  the  best  men  in  my  party,  who  was  obliged,  by  the  condition  of  his 
family,  io  be  at  home  in  the  coming  winiir.  Our  preparations  having  been 
completed  in  the  interval  of  our  stay  here,  both  parties  were  ready  this 
inorning  to  resume  their  respective  routes. 


[184S 

-ui;>t  ^descent 
cam,  whiuh  atj 
sr,  a  swift  cur« 
was  oniiy  about; 

3  ni)d  sloughs, 
encamp  J  witli'i 
en  we  went  to 
,  neither  party 
ration.  I'hey, 
,  as  there  had 
ation  ;  and  Mr. 
ght  provisions, 
lore  us. 
id  gloomy,  ard 
with  cold,  ais- 
[  rode  up  to  the 
f  the  post)  sev- 
)r,  which  were 
killed  at  even- 
.     Night  came 

e  thermometer 
rain,  and  there 
5  on  the  neigh- 
ather  was  hard 
rnetiuiss  taking 
\king  the  snow 
s. 

;ht,  and  in  the 
iturc  ut  sunrise 
t  the  fort,  with 
afternoon,  and 

and  at  sunrise 


1843.} 


CAPT.    .MIEMONT'S  NARItATIVE. 


147 


1 


porting  a  large 

o  had  become 

d  frequent  pri- 

ere  was  reason 

1  of  the  voyage. 

my  intention  to 

)urse  of  which 

).  succeeded  in 

These  were : 

A..  Vasouez,  A. 

eunesse,  Basil 

sil  Lajeunesse, 

condition  of  his 

ns  having  been 

ere  ready  this 


Except  that  there  is  a  greater  quantity  of  wood  used  in  its  construction,  F'ort 
Hall  very  much  ret.'embh;s  the  other  trading  posts  which  have  been  already 
described  to  you,  and  would  be  another  excellent  post  of  relief  for  the  erni- 

S;rati<  n.  It  is  in  the  low,  rich  bottom  of  a  valley,  apparently  20  miles  lonp 
brmed  by  the  confluence  of  l^ortneuf  river  with  Lewis's  fork  of  theColun- 
^bia,  which  itentcMS  about  nine  miles  below  the  fort,  and  nairowing  gradj- 
>ally  to  the  mouth  of  the  Pannack  river,  where  it  has  a  breadth  ol  only  two 
or  three  miles.  Allowing  50  miles  for  the  road  from  the  liter  sj/rings  of 
Bear  river  to  Fort  Hall,  its  di^ance  along  the  travelled  iom\  Ironj  the  town 
of  Westport,  on  the  frontier  of  Missouri,  byway  of  Fort  Laramie  and  the 
great  South  Pass,  is  1,323  miles.  Beyond  this  place,  on  the  line  of  road 
along  the  barren  valley  of  the  Upper  Columbia,  there  does  not  occur,  for 
a  distance  of  nearly  three  hundred  miles  to  the  westward,  a  fertile  spot  of 
ground  sufliciently  large  to  produce  the  necessary  quantify  of  grain,  or 
pasturage  enough  to  allow  even  a  temporary  repose  to  the  emigiants.  On 
their  recent  passage,  they  had  been  able  to  obtain,  at  very  high  prices  and 
in  insuflicient  quantity,  only  such  assistance  as  could  be  afforded  by  a 
small  and  remote  trading  post — and  that  a  foreign  one — which,  in  the  supply 
of  its  own  wants,  had  necessarily  drawn  around  it  some  of  the  resources 
of  civilization,  but  which  obtained  nearly  all  its  supplies  lioni  the  distant 
depot  of  Vancouver,  by  a  diffinult  water  carriage  of  250  miles  up  the  Co- 
lumbia river,  and  a  land  carriage  by  pack  horses  of  600  miles.  An  Ameri- 
can military  post  sufliciently  strong  to  give  to  their  road  a  perfect  security 
against  the  Indian  tribes,  who  are  unsettled  in  locality  and  very  uncertain 
in  their  disposition,  and  which,  with  the  necessary  facilities  for  the  repair 
of  thei,  equipage,  would  be  able  to  afford  them  relief  in  stock  and  grain 
from  the  produce  of  the  post,  would  be  of  extraordinary  value  to  the  emi- 
gration. Such  a  post  ( and  all  others  which  may  be  established  on  the  line 
to  Oregon)  would  naturally  form  the  nucleus  of  a  settlement,  at  which 
supplies  and  repose  would  be  obtained  by  the  emigrant,  or  trading  cara- 
vans, which  may  hereafter  traverse  these  elevated,  and,  in  many  places, 
desolate  and  inhospitable  regions. 

I  subjoin  an  analysis  of  the  soil  in  the  river  bottom  near  Fort  Hall,  which 
will  be  of  assistance  in  enabling  you  to  form  some  correct  idea  of  its  gen- 
eral character  in  the  neighboring  country.  I  characterize  it  as  good  land, 
but  the  analysis  will  show  its  precise  properties. 


Analysis  of  soil. 


Silica      -  -  - 

Alumina 

Carbonate  of  lime 
Carbonate  of  magnesia    - 
Oxide  of  iion       - 
Organic  vegetable  matter 
Water  and  ioss    - 


68.55 
7.45 
8.51 
5.09 
L40 
4.74 
4.26 


100.00 


Our  observations  place  this  post  in  longitude  112?  29'  54",  latitude  43* 
or  30",  and  in  elevation  above  the  sea  4,500  fe^t. 

Taking  leave  of  the  homeward  party,  we  resumedour  journey  down 


d  •  .:CV 


mi 


148 


CAPr.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1849. 


\m 


the  valley,  the  weather  being  very  cold,  and  the  rain  coming  in  hard  gusts, 
which  the  wind  blew  directly  in  our  faces.  We  (brded  the  Portneuf  in  a 
storm  of  rain,  the  water  in  the  river  bcin^  frequontly  up  to  the  axles,  and 
about  1 10  yards  wide.  Alter  the  gust,  the  weather  improved  a  little,  and 
we  encamped  about  three  miles  below,  at  the  nioutli  of  the  Pannack  river, 
on  Lewis's  fork,  which  here  has  a  breadth  of  about  120  yards.  The  tera* 
pcrature  at  sunset  was  44';  the  sky  partially  covered  with  dark,  rainy 
clouds. 

September  23. — The  temperature  at  sunrise  was32''  ;  the  morning  dark, 
and  snow  falling  stecuJily  and  thickly,  witi)  a  light  air  from  the  southward. 
Profited  ci  being  obliged  to  remain  in  camp,  to  take  hourly  barometric.il 
observations  from  sunrise  to  midnight.  The  wind  at  eleven  o'clock  set  in 
frona  the  noithward  in  heavy  gusts,  and  the  snow  changed  into  rain.  In 
the  afternoon,  when  the  sky  brightened,  the  rain  had  washed  all  the  snow 
from  the  bottoms  ;  but  the  neighboring  mountains,  from  summit  to  foot,  were 
luminously  white — an  inauspicious  commencen)ent  of  the  autumn,  of  which 
this  was  the  first  day. 

Seplember  24. — 'I'he  thermometer  at  sunrise  was  at  35°,  and  a  blue  sky 
in  the  west  promised  a  line  day.  The  river  bottoms  here  are  narrow  an*! 
swampy,  with  frequent  sloughs;  and  alter  crossing  the  Pannack,  the  road 
continued  along  the  uplands,  rendered  very  slippery  by  the  soil  of  wet  clay, 
and  entirely  covered  with  artcmisia  bushes,  among  which  occur  frequent 
fragments  of  obsidian.  At  noon  we  encamped  in  a  grove  of  willows,  at  the 
upper  end  of  a  group  of  islands,  about  half  a  mile  above  the  ^^merican  falls 
of  Snake  river.  Among  the  willows  here,  were  i-ome  bushes  of  Lewis  and 
Clarke's  currant,  [ribes  aureum.)  The  river  here  enters  between  low  mu- 
ral banks,  which  consist  of  a  tine  vesicular  trap  rock,  the  intermediate  por- 
tions being  compact  and  crystalline.  Gradually  becoming  higher  in  its 
downward  course,  these  banks  of  scoriated  volcanic  rock  form,  with  occa- 
sional interruptions,  its  characteristic  feature  along  the  whole  line  to  the 
Dalles  of  the  Louver  Columbia,  resembling  a  chasm  uhich  had  been  rent 
through  the  country,  and  which  the  river  had  afterwards  taken  for  its  bed. 
The  immediate  valley  of  the  river  is  a  high  plain,  covered  with  black  rocks 
and  aitemisias.  In  the  south  is  a  bordering  range  of  mountains,  which, 
although  not  very  high,  are  broken  and  covered  with  snow  ;  and  at  a  great 
distance  to  the  north  is  seen  the  high,  snowy  line  of  the  Salmon  river 
mountains,  in  front  of  which  stand  out  prominently  in  the  plain  the  three 
isolated  rugged-looking  little  mountains  commonly  known  as  the  Three 
Buttes.  Between  the  river  and  the  distant  Salmon  river  range,  the  plain 
is  represented  by  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  as  so  entirely  broken  up  and  rent  into 
chasms  as  to  be  impracticable  fora  man  even  on  foot.  In  the  sketch  annexed, 
the  point  of  view  is  low,  but  it  conveys  very  well  some  idea  of  the  open 
character  of  the  country,  with  the  buttes  rising  out  above  the  general  line. 
By  measurement,  the  riverabove  is870feet  wide,  immediately  contracted  at 
the  fall  in  the  form  of  a  lock,  by  jutting  piles  of  scoriaceous  basalt,  over  which 
the  foaming  river  must  presenta  grand  appearance  at  the  time  of  high  water. 
The  evening  was  clear  and  pleasant,  with  dew  ;  and  at  sunset  the  tempera- 
ture was  54°.  By  observation,  the  latitude  is  42°  47'  05",  and  the  longi- 
tude 112°  40'  13".  A  few  hundred  yards  below  the  falls,  and  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  river,  is  an  escarpment  from  which  we  obtained  some  speci- 
mens. 

September  25. — Thermometer  at  sunrise  47°.     The  day  came  in  clear, 


i-jis 


^W3.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


149 


oining  (lark, 
c  southward, 
barometrical 
)'clock  set  in 
ito  rain.  In 
all  the  snow 
to  foot,  were 
nfin,of  which 

id  a  blue  sky 
3  narrow  and 
»ck,  the  road 
I  of  wet  clay, 
cur  frequent 
illows,  at  the 
nerican  falls 
af  Lewis  and 
>een  low  inu- 
mediate  por- 
higher  in  its 
,  with  occa- 
e  line  to  the 
ad  been  rent 
n  for  its  bed. 
1  black  rocks 
ains,  which, 
nd  at  a  great 
Salmon  river 
lin  the  three 
lis  the  Three 
ge,  the  plain 
nd  rent  into 
tch  annexed, 
of  the  open 
general  line, 
contracted  at 
t,overwhich 
f  high  water, 
the  tempera- 
id  the  longi- 
d  on  the  left 
some  speci- 

me  ill  clear, 


«;ftb  a  strong  gale  from  the  south,  which  commenced  at  11  of  the  last 
'.Blghti     The  road  to-day  led  along  the  river,  which  is  full  of  rapids  and 
)flD«ll  falls.     Grass  is  very  scanty  ;  and  along  the  rucged  l»  inks  are  scat- 
tered cedars,  with  an  ahuiidance  of  rocks  and  sage.    We  travelled  14  miles, 
>aDd  encamped  in  the  affrniocn  near  the  river,  on  a  rocky  cicek,  the  bed 
of  which  was  entirely  occupied  with  boulders  of  a  very  large  size.     For 
hhe  last  three  or  four  miles  the  right  bank  of  the  river  has  a  palisaded  ap« 
pearance.     One  of  the  oxen  was  killed  here  for  food.     The  thermometer 
at  evening  was  at  55",  the  sky  almost  overcast,  and  the  barometer  indi- 
cated an  elevation  of  4,400  feet. 

September  26. —  Kain  during  the  night,  and  the  temperature  at  sunrise 
42*.  Travelling  along  the  river,  in  about  4  miles  we  reached  a  picturesque 
stream,  to  which  we  gave  the  name  of  Fall  creek.  It  is  rcMiiarkable  for  the 
many  falls  which  occur  i;>  a  short  distance  ;  and  its  bed  is  composed  of  a 
calcareous  tufa,  or  vegetable  rock,  composed  principally  ol  the  remains  of 
leeds  and  mosses,  reseml)liiig  that  at  the  Basin  spring  on  Hear  river. 

The  road  along  the  river  bhitl's  had  been  occasionally  very  bad  ;  and 
imagining  that  some  rough  obstacles  rendered  such  a  detour  necessary,  we 
followed  for  several  miles  a  plain  wagon  road  leading  up  Ihis  stream, until 
we  reached  a  point  whence  it  could  be  seen  making  directly  towards  i,  low 
place  in  the  range  on  the  south  side  of  the  valley,  and  we  became  imme- 
diately aware  that  we  wcie  on  a  trail  iormed  by  a  party  of  wagons,  in  com- 
pany with  whom  we  had  encamped  at  EIni  grove,  near  the  frontier  of 
Missouri,  and  vvliich  you  will  remember  were  proceeding  to  U|)per  Califor- 
nia under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Jos.  Chiles.  At  the  time  of  their  departure, 
no  practicable  passes  were  known  in  the  southern  Rocky  mountains  'vith- 
in  the  territory  of  the  United  States  ;  and  the  probable  apprehension  of  dif- 
ficulty i.i  attempting  to  pass  near  the  settled  frontierof  New  Mexico, together 
wilhthe  desert  character  of  the  unexplored  region  beyond, iiad  induced  them 
to  take  a  more  northern  and  circuitous  route  by  way  ol  the  Sweet  Water  pass 
and  Fort  Hall.  They  had  still  between  them  and  the  valley  of  the  Sacramen- 
to a  great  mass  of  mountains,  forming  the  Sierra  Nevada,  here  commonly 
knowr  as  the  (Jreat  Califurnia  mountain,  and  which  were  at  this  time 
considered  as  presenting  an  impracticable  baiiier  to  wheeled  carriages. 
Various  considerations  had  s'  ted  to  them  a  division  of  the  party ;  and 

a  greater  portion  of  the  camp,  in  'm^  the  wagons,  with  thi  ni  il  and  other 
stores,  were  now  proceeding  under  the  guidance  of  Mr.  Josf  |,h  Walker,  who 
had  engaged  to  conduct  them,  by  a  lon.^  isweep  to  tht  southward,  around 
what  is  called  the  jyoint  of  the  mountain;  md,  cro^  iig  through  a  pass 
known  only  to  himself,  gain  the  banks  of  the  Sacramento  !)y  the  valley  of 
the  San  Joaquin.  It  was  a  long  and  a  hazardous  journey  for  .  party  in  which 
there  were  women  and  children.  Sixty  days  wa^  the  shortest  period  of 
tinae  in  which  they  could  reach  the  point  of  the  Uiuuntain,  and  their  route 
lay  through  a  country  inhabited  by  wild  and  badly  disposed  Indians,  and 
very  poor  in  game  ;  but  the  leader  was  a  man  possessini^  :teat  and  intimate 
knowledge  of  the  Indians,  with  an  extraordinary  firr>  ess  and  decision  of 
character.  In  the  mean  time,  Mr.  Chiles  had  passed  down  the  Columbia 
with  a  party  of  ten  or  twelve  men,  with  the  intention  of  reaching  the  set- 
tlements on  the  Sacramento  by  a  more  direct  course,  which  indefinite  in- 
formation from  hunters  had  indicated  in  the  direction  of  the  head  waters 
of  the  Riviere  aux  Mulheurs ;  and  having  obtained  there  a  reinforcement 
of  animals,  and  a  supply  of  provisions,  meet  the  wagons  before  they  should 


rl*  ,:- 


1 


I 


.V- 


^s-"-  •• 


^fK;:-: 


ir)0  CAf»T.   FREMONT  M  NAKIIATIVK.  [1843. 

have  reached  tfio  puiot  of  the  mountain,  at  a  place  which  hnd  been  |^Te> 
vioudly  agittii  iic-on.  In  the  course  ol Our  nuirative,  we  shall  be  able  lo 
give  you  some  iufornialion  of  the  fortune  which  attended  the  movements 
of  tiiesc  adventuious  travellers. 

'IJuving  di.  covered  our  error,  we  immediately  regained  the  line  along 
the  river,  which  the  load  (juitted  about  noon,  and  ct)camped  at  5  o'cIock 
on  a  stream  called  Waft  river,  (  Rivitre  ini.v  ('(■jeu.r,)  having  travelled  only 
13  miles.  In  the  north,  the  Salmon  river  niouiiiains  are  visible  at  a  very 
I'ar  distance  ;  and  on  llie  left,  the  ridge  in  which  Haft  river  heads  is  al)out 
20  miles  distant,  rocky,  and  tolerably  high.  Thermometer  at  sunset  44*, 
with  a  partially  clouded  sky,  and  a  sharp  wind  from  the  SW. 

September  27.- -it  was  now  no  longer  possible,  as  in  our  previous  journey, 
to  travel  regularly  every  day,  and  find  at  any  moment  a  convenient  place 
for  vepose  at  noon  or  a  camp  at  night;  but  tbi  halting  places  were  now 
generally  fixed  along  the  road,  by  the  nature  oMiic  country,  at  places  where, 
with  water,  there  was  a  little  scanty  grass.  Since  leaving  the  American 
falls,  the  road  had  fro()uc  itly  been  very  bad  ;  the  many  short,  steep  ascents, 
exhausting  Mic  stretigth  of  our  worn-out  animals,  re(|uiring  always  at  such 
places  the  assistance  of  the  men  to  get  up  each  cart,  one  by  one  ;  and  our 
progress  with  twelve  or  fourteen  wheeled  carriages,  though  light  and  made 
for  the  puipose,  in  such  a  rocky  country,  was  extremely  slow  ;  ".nd  1  again 
determined  to  gain  time  by  a  division  of  the  cauip.  Accordin^';ly,  today 
the  parties  again  separated,  constituted  very  mucli  as  before — Mr.  Fitzpat- 
rick  remaining  in  charge  of  me  heavier  baggage. 

The  morning  was  calm  and  clear,  with  a  white  frost,  and  the  tempera- 
ture at  sunrise  24*^. 

To-day  the  country  had  a  very  forbidding  appearance  ;  and,  after  travel- 
ling 20  miles  over  a  slightly  undulating  plain,  we  encamped  at  a  consider- 
able spring,  called  Swamp  creek,  rising  in  low  grounds  near  the  point  of  a 
spur  from  the  mountain.  Returning  with  a  small  party  in  a  starving  con- 
dition from  the  westward  12  or  14  years  since,  Carson  had  met  here  three 
or  four  bufi'alo  bulls,  two  of  which  were  killed.  They  were  among  the 
pioneers  which  had  made  the  experiment  of  colonizing  in  the  valley  of  the 
Columbia,  and  which  had  failed,  as  heretofore  stated.  At  sunset  the  ther- 
mometer was  at  4G"^, and  the  evening  was  overcast,  with  a  cold  wind  from 
the  SE.,  and  to-night  we  had  only  sage  for  lire  wood.  Mingled  with  the 
artemisia  was  a  shrubby     id  thorny  chenopodiaccous  plant. 

September  28. — The-.iiometer  at  sunrise  40*^.  The  wind  rose  early  to 
a  gale  from  the  west,  with  a  very  cold  driving  rain  ;  and,  after  an  uncom- 
fortable day's  ride  of  25  miles,  we  were  glad  whei;  nt  evening  we  found  a 
sheltered  camp,  where  there  was  an  abundance  ol  wood,  at  some  elevated 
rocky  islands  cover  ed  w  ii  'i  cedar,  near  'ho  eomn.encement  of  another  long 
canon  of  the  river.  With  thi;  exception  oi  a  short  detention  at  a  deep  little 
stream  called  Goose  creek,  and  some  occasional  rocky  places,  we  had  to- 
day a  very  good  road  ;  but  the  country  has  a  barren  appearance,  sandy,  and 
densely  covered  with  the  artemisias  from  the  banks  of  the  river  to  the  foot 
of  the  mountains.  Idere  1  remarked,  among  the  Siige  bushes,  green  bunches 
of  what  is  called  the  second  growth  of  grass.  The  river  to-day  has  had  a 
smooth  appearance,  free  from  rapids,  with  a  low,  sandy  hill  slope  bordering 
the  bottoms,  in  which  there  is  a  little  eood  soil.  Thermometer  at  sunset 
45**,  blowing  a  gale,  and  disagreeably  cold. 


[1843. 

lad  been  ^^iie- 
\\l  bo  able  :o 
e  movements 

he  line  along 
at  5  o'clock 
ravelled  only 
ible  at  a  very 
eads  is  about 
t  sunset  44*^, 

iousjourney, 
/enient  place 
IS  were  now 
•laces  where, 
le  American 
teep  ascents, 
ways  at  such 
me  ;  and  our 
!;ht  and  made 
;  "nd  I  again 
in^';ly,  today 
■Mr.  Fitzpat- 

the  tempera- 
after  travel- 
it  a  consider- 
he  point  of  a 
Uarving  con- 
st here  three 
among  the 
valley  of  the 
set  the  thcr- 
d  wind  from 
led  with  the 

ose  early  to 
r  an  uncom- 
;  we  found  a 
me  elevated 
mother  long 
a  deep  little 
,  we  had  to- 
, sandy, and 
r  to  the  foot 
ien  bunches 
ly  has  had  a 
e  bordering 
er  at  sunset 


ri843.] 


CAl'T.  FRKMONT'S  NAKKATIVE. 


151 


September  20. — The  theimometer  at  sunriso  .3(J'',  with  a  bright  sun,  and 
appearance  of  finer  weather.  Tiie  road  lor  sever.-^l  miles  was  extremely 
rncky,  and  consequently  bad  ;  bui,  ontoring  after       s  ii  sandy  country,  it 

{became  very  good,  with  no  olhor  inteiru|itioti  than  i. .^  sage  hushen,  which 
eovoied  the  river  plain  so  far  as  the  vyu  cuuUi  roach,  and,  with  their  uni- 
form tint  of  dark  gray,  gave  to  the  country  a  gloomy  and  sombre  appear- 
ance. All  the  day  the  course  of  the  river  has  been  between  walls  of  the 
black  volcanic  rock,  a  dark  line  of  the  escarpment  on  the  opposite  side 
pointing  out  its  course,  and  sweeping  along  in  foam  at  places  where  the 
mountains  which  border  the  valley  present  always  on  the  left  two  ranges, 
the  lower  one  a  spur  of  the  higher  ;  and,  on  the  opposite  S'de,  the  Sahnon 
river  mountains  are  visible  at  a  great  disilance.  llaving  made  24  miles, 
we  encamped  about  5  o'clock  on  Hock  cree,  -a  stream  having  considera- 
ble water,  a  swift  current,  and  wooded  with  willow. 

September  30. — Thermometer  at  sunrise  28*.  In  its  progress  towards 
the  river,  this  creek  soon  enters  a  chasm  of  the  volcanic  rock,  which  in 
places  along  the  wall  pmsents  a  columnar  apjjearance ;  and  the  road  be- 
comes extiemely  rocky  \»'henevcr  it  passes  near  its  banks.  It  is  only  about 
twenty  feet  wide  where  the  road  crosses  it,  with  a  deep  bed,  and  steep  banks, 
f.oveicd  with  rocky  fragments,  with  willows  and  a  little  grass  on  its  narrow 
bottom.  The  soil  appears  to  be  full  of  calcareous  matter,  with  which  the 
rocks  are  incrusted.  The  fragments  of  rock  which  had  been  removed  by 
the  emigrants  in  making  a  road  where  we  ascended  from  the  bed  of  this 
creek  were  whitened  with  lime ;  and  during  the  afternoon's  march  I  re- 
marked in  the  soil  a  considerable  quantity  of  calcareous  concretions.  To- 
wards evening  the  sages  became  more  sparse,  and  the  clear  spaces  were  oc- 
cupied by  tufts  of  green  grass.  The  river  itill  continued  its  course  through 
a  trough  oi'  open  canon  ;  and  towards  sunsei  we  followed  the  trail  of  several 
wagons  which  had  turned  in  towards  Snalce  river,  and  encamped,  as  they 
had  done,  on  the  top  of  the  escarpment.  There  was  no  grass  here,  the 
soil  among  the  sage  being  entirely  naked  ;  but  there  is  occasionally  a  little 
bottom  along  the  river,  which  a  short  ravine  of  rocks,  at  rare  intervals, 
leaves  accessible;  and  by  one  of  these  we  drove  our  animals  down,  and 
found  some  tolerably  good  grass  boidcring  the  water. 

Imuiediately  opposite  to  us,  a  subterranean  river  bursts  out  directly  from 
the  face  of  the  escarpment,  and  falls  in  white  foam  to  the  river  below.  The 
main  river  is  enclosed  with  mural  precipices,  which  form  its  characteristic 
feature  along  a  great  portion  of  ils  course.  A  melancholy  and  strange-look- 
ing country — one  of  fracture,  and  violence,  and  (ire. 

We  had  brought  with  us,  when  we  separated  from  the  camp,  a  large 
gaunt  ox,  in  appearance  very  poor  ;  but,  being  killed  to-night,  to  the  greit 
joy  of  the  people,  he  was  found  to  be  remaikably  fat.  As  usual  at  such  oc- 
currences, the  evening  was  devoted  to  gayety  and  feasting ;  abundant  fare 
now  made  an  epoch  among  us ;  and  in  this  laborious  life,  in  such  a  country 
as  this,  our  men  bad  but  little  else  to  enjoy.  The  temperature  at  sunset 
was  G5°,  with  a  clear  sky  and  a  very  high  wind.  By  the  observation  of 
the  evening,  the  encampment  was  in  longitude  114°  25'  04",  and  in  lati- 
tude 42°  38'  44". 

October  1. — The  moining  clear,  with  wind  from  the  west,  and  the  ther- 
mometer at  55°.  We  descended  to  the  bottom,  taking  with  us  the  boat,  for 
the  purpose  of  visiting  the  fall  in  the  opposite  cliffs  ;  and  while  it  was  being 


•,.viV 


•i?/ 


'\t:'^^- 


■   A: 


152 


CAPT.   FREMONT'S  NAURATIVE. 


[1843^. 


^'v^ 


i. 


fit  ■i;i 


^»  y; 


.)  :*« 


filled  with  air,  wc  occupied  ourselves  lu  measuring  the  river,  whjeli.li* 
1 ,78G  leet  in  breadth,  with  hanks  200  lect  hij;h.  Wo  were  surprised,  on  our 
arrival  at  the  opposite  side,  to  (ind  a  beautiful  basin  of  clear  water,  formed 
hy  the  falling  river,  around  wliith  the  rocki  were  whitened  by  some  saline,  | 
incrustation.  Mere  the  Indians  had  constructed  wicker  dams,  although  [ 
■was  informed  that  the  salmon  do  not  ascend  the  river  so  far ;  and  its  char- 
acter below  would  apparently  render  it  impracticable. 

The  ascent  of  the  steep  hill  side  was  rendered  a  little  difllcult  by  a  dense 
growth  of  shrubs  and  fields  of  cant; ;  and  there  were  frequent  hidden  crev- 
ices among  the  rooks,  where  the  water  was  heard  rushing  below  ;  but  we 
succeeded  in  reaching  the  miiin  stream,  which,  issuing  from  between  strata 
of  the  trap  rock  in  two  princi|)al  branches,  produced  almost  immediately  a 
torrent,  22  feet  wide,  and  white  with  foam.  It  is  a  picturesque  spot  of  sin- 
gular beauty  ;  overshaded  by  bushes,  from  under  which  the  torrent  glances, 
tumbling  into  the  white  basin  below  where  the  clear  water  contrasted  beau- 
tifully with  the  muddy  stream  of  the  river.  Its  outlet  was  covered  with  a 
rank  growth  of  canes,  and  a  variety  of  unusual  plants,  and  nettles,  (wr/tca 
cajiabina,)  which,  before  they  were  noticed,  had  set  our  hands  and  arms 
on  fire.  The  temperature  of  the  spring  was  5H°,  while  that  of  the  river 
was  5\°.  The  perpendicular  height  of  the  place  at  which  this  stream  issues 
is  45  feet  above  the  river,  and  152  feet  below  the  summit  of  the  precipice, 
making  nearly  200  feet  for  the  height  of  the  wall.  On  the  hill  side  here, 
was  obtained  a  specimen  consisting  principally  of  fragments  of  the  shells 
of  small  Crustacea,  and  which  was  proliably  formed  by  deposition  from 
these  springs  proceeding  from  some  lake  or  river  in  the  highlands  above. 

We  resumed  our  journey  at  noon,  the  day  being  hot  and  bright ;  and, 
after  a  march  of  17  miles,  encamped  at  sunset  on  the  river,  near  several 
lodges  of  Snake  Indians. 

Our  encampment  was  about  one  mile  beloAv  the  Fishing  falls,  a  series 
of  cataracts  with  very  inclined  planes,  which  are  probably  so  named  because 
they  form  a  barrier  to  the  ascent  of  the  salmon  ;  and  the  great  fisheries 
from  which  the  inhabitants  of  this  barren  region  almost  entirely  derive  a 
subsistence  commence  at  this  place.  These  appeared  to  be  unusually  gay 
savages,  fond  of  loud  laughter;  and,  in  their  apparent  good  nature  and 
merry  character,  struck  me  as  being  entirely  ditlerent  from  the  Indians 
we  had  been  accustomed  to  see.  From  several  who  visited  our  camp  in 
the  evening,  we  purchased,  in  exchange  for  goods,  dried  sr.l  non.  At  this 
season  they  are  not  very  fat,  but  we  were  easily  pleased.  The  Indians 
made  us  comprehend,  that  when  the  salmon  came  up  the  river  in  the  spring, 
they  are  so  abundant  that  they  merely  throw  in  their  spears  at  random, 
certain  of  bringing  out  a  fish. 

These  poor  people  are  but  slightly  provided  with  winter  clothing;  there 
is  but  little  game  to  furnish  skins  for  the  purpose  ;  and  of  a  little  animal 
which  seemed  to  be  the  most  numerous,  it  required  20  skins  to  make  a 
covering  to  the  knees.  But  they  are  still  a  joyous  talkative  race,  who 
grow  fat  and  become  poor  with  the  salmon,  which  at  least  never  fail 
them — the  dried  being  used  in  the  absence  of  the  fresh.  >Ve  are  encamped 
immediately  on  the  river  bank,  and  with  the  salmon  jumping  up  out  of  the 
water,  and  Indians  paddling  about  in  boats  made  of  rushes,  or  laughing 
around  the  fires,  the  camp  to-night  has  quite  a  lively  appearance. 

The  river  at  this  place  is  more  open  than  for  some  distance  above  ;  and, 


Th( 
be  a  I 
cons 
and 
»ll  t| 

SCV( 

on  tl 
01 
the 
ral  II 


[1843.  Vims.] 


CAPT.   FREMONT'S  NaRRATIVK. 


153 


,  whieti  \i» 
scd,onour 
:cr,  formed 
lomc  salina, 
although  I 
id  its  cnar- 

hy  a  dense 
ddcii  crev- 
w  ;  but  we 
ween  strata 
iiediiitely  a 
spot  of  sin- 
!nt  glances, 
asted  beau- 
;red  with  a 
les,(Mr/ica 
s  and  arms 
tf  the  river 
ream  issues 
;  precipice, 
side  here, 
the  shells 
sition  from 
mds  above, 
right ;  and, 
ear  several 

lis,  a  series 

ed  because 

at  fisheries 

ly  derive  a 

jsually  gay 

nature  and 

)e  Indians 

r  camp  in 

n.    At  this 

c  Indians 

[the  spring, 

it  random, 

ling;  there 
tie  animal 
lo  make  a 
I  race,  who 
jnever  fail 
[encamped 
)ut  of  the 
laughing 

love ;  and  J 


ior  the  time,  (he  black  precipices  have  disappeared,  and  no  calcareous  mat- 
^r  18  visible  in  the  soil.     The  thermometer  at  sunset  71' ;  clear  and  calm. 

October  2. — The  sunrise  temperature  was  48"^;  the  weather  clear  and 
ttlm.  Shortly  after  leaving  the  encampment,  we  crossed  n  stream  ol  clear 
water,  with  a  variable  breadth  of  10  to  25  yards,  broken  by  rapids,  and  lightly 
wooded  with  willow,  and  having  a  little  grass  on  its  small  bottom  land. 
Tht  barrenness  of  the  country  is  in  fine  contrast  to-day  with  the  minglcci 
beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  river,  which  is  more  open  than  hitln'ito,  With  a 
constant  succession  of  falls  and  rapid.^.  Over  the  edge  of  the  'I'ack  clilFs, 
and  out  from  their  faces,  arc  falling  numberless  streams  and  springs;  and 
»ll  the  line  of  the  river  is  in  motion  with  the  play  of  the  water.  In  about 
seven  miles  we  reached  the  most  beautiful  and  picturesque  fall  I  had  seen 
on  the  river. 

On  the  opposite  side,  the  vertical  fall  is  perhaps  18  feet  high  ;  and  nearer, 
the  sheet  of  foaming  water  is  divided  and  broken  into  cataracts,  where  seve- 
ral little  islands  on  the  brink  and  in  the  river  above  give  it  much  pictu- 
resque beauty,  and  make  it  one  of  those  places  the  traveller  turns  again  and 
again  to  fix  in  his  memory.  There  were  several  lodges  of  Indians  here, 
from  whom  we  traded  salmon.  Helow  this  place  the  i  iver  makes  a  remark- 
able bend  ;  and  the  road,  ascending  the  ridge,  gave  us  a  hue  view  of  the 
river  below,  intersected  at  many  places  by  numcious  fish  dams.  In  tho 
north,  about  50  miles  distant,  were  some  high  snowy  peaks  of  the  Salmon 
river  mountains  ;  and  in  the  northeast,  the  last  peak  of  the  range  was  visible 
at  the  distance  of  perhaj)s  100  miles  or  more.  The  river  hills  consist  of 
very  broken  massesof  sand,  covered  every  where  with  the  same  interminable 
fields  of  sage,  "nd  occasionally  the  road  is  very  heavy.  We  now  very  fre- 
quently saw  Indians,  who  were  strung  along  the  river  at  every  little  rapid 
where  hsh  are  to  be  caught,  and  the  cry  liaggaiy  haggui,  (f'sh,)  was  con- 
stantly heard  whenever  we  passed  .car  'heir  huts,  or  met  them  in  the  road. 
Very  many  of  theiM  were  oddly  and  partially  dressed  in  overcoat,  shirt, 
waistcoat,  or  pantaloon.s,or  whatever  article  of  clothing  they  had  been  able 
to  procure  in  trade  from  the  emigrants  ;  for  we  had  now  entirely  quitted 
the  country  where  hawk's  bells,  beads,  anu  vermilion,  were  the  current  coin, 
and  found  that  here  only  useful  articles,  and  chiefly  clothing,  were  in  great 
request.  These,  however,  are  eagerly  sought  after  ;  and  for  a  i'ew  trifling 
pieces  of  clothing,  travellers  may  procure  food  sufficient  to  carry  them  to 
the  Columbia. 

We  made  a  long  stretch  across  the  upper  plain,  and  encamped  on  the 
bluff,  where  the  grass  was  very  green  and  good  ;  the  soil  of  the  upper 
plains  containing  a  considerable  proportion  of  calcareous  matter.  This 
green  freshness  of  the  grass  was  very  rematkable  for  the  season  of  the  year. 
Again  we  heard  the  roar  of  a  fall  in  the  river  below,  where  the  v.ater  in  an 
unbroken  volume  goes  over  a  descent  of  seveial  feet.  The  night  is  clear, 
and  the  weather  continues  very  warm  and  pleasant,  with  a  sunset  tempera- 
ture of  70°. 

October  3. — The  morning  was  pleasant,  with  a  temperature  at  sunrise 
of  42°.  The  road  was  broken  by  ravines  among  the  hills,  and  in  one  of 
these,  which  made  the  bed  of  a  dry  creek,  I  found  a  fragmentary  stratum, 
or  brecciated  conglomerate,  consisting  of  flinty  slate  pebbles,  with  frag- 
ments of  limestone  containing  fossil  shells. 
On  the  left,  the  mountains  are  visible  at  the  distance  of  twenty  or  thirty 


^B^ 


151 


CAPT.   KIIKMO.NIVS  NARK  ATI  VE. 


I; 

i: 


^4: 


m 

I 


i 


f* 


[1848. 

iTiilcs,  appeal  it);:  sinnotli  and  ratlior  low  ;  but  at  iiUeivals  tiighcr  peaks  look 
out  tVoiit  lioyotul,  niid  indicate  that  tlu;  main  ridge,  which  we  are  leaving 
with  tlio  rourso  of  the  river,  and  which  lonns  llie  northern  boundary  of 
the  (ireat  ISasin,  still  maintains  its  elevation.  About  2  oV-lock  wt;  ar- 
rived at  the  lord  where  the  road  crosses  to  (he  right  bank  of  Snake  river. 
An  Indian  was  hired  to  conduct  us  throutrh  t'le  ford,  which  proved  imprac- 
ticable  for  us,  the  water  sweeping  away  the  howil'icr  and  nearly  drowning 
the  mule»«,  which  we  were  obliged  to  extricate  by  cutting  them  out  of  the 
harness.  The  river  here  is  expanded  info  a  little  bay,  in  which  there  are 
two  islandi*,  across  which  is  the  road  of  the  ford  ;  und  the  emigrants  had 
passed  by  placing  two  of  their  heavy  wagons  abreast  of  each  other,  so  as 
to  opposi!  a  considerable  mass  against  the  body  of  water.  The  Indians 
informed  us  that  one  of  the  men,  in  attempting  to  turn  some  cattle  which 
had  taken  a  wrong  direction,  was  carried  oil  by  the  current  and  diowned. 
Since  their  passage,  the  water  had  rit^en  considerably  ;  but,  forlHnately,  wc 
had  a  resource  in  a  boat,  whicli  was  filled  with  air  and  launched  ;  and 
at  seven  o'clock  we  were  safely  encamped  on  the  opposite  bank,  the  animals 
swimming  across,  and  the  carriage,  howit/er,  and  baggage  of  the  camp, 
being  carried  over  in  the  boat.  At  the  place  where  we  crossed,  above  the 
islands,  the  liver  had  narrowed  to  a  breadth  of  1,049  feet  by  measurement, 
the  greater  portion  of  which  was  from  six  to  eight  feet  deep.  We  were 
obliged  to  make  our  camp  where  we  landed,  among  the  Indian  lodges, 
which  are  semicircular  huts  made  of  willow,  thatched  over  with  straw, 
and  open  to  the  sunny  south.  By  observation,  the  latitude  of  our  encamp- 
ment on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  was  42^  55'  58"  ;  chronometric  longi- 
tude 115-  04'  40",  and  the  travelled  distance  from  Fort  Hall  208  miles. 

October  4. — Calm  pleasant  day,  with  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  at  47'. 
Leaving  the  river  at  a  considerable  distance  to  the  left,  and  following  up 
the  bed  of  a  rocky  creek,  with  occasional  holes  of  water,  in  about  six  miles 
we  ascended,  by  a  long  and  rather  steep  hill,  to  a  plain  600  feet  above  the 
river,  over  which  we  continued  to  travel  duiingthe  day,  having  a  broken 
ridge  2,000  or  3,000  feet  high  on  the  right.  The  plain  terminates,  where 
we  ascended,  in  an  escarpment  of  vesicular  trap  rock,  which  supplies  the 
fragments  of  the  creek  below.  The  sky  clouded  over,  w  ith  a  strong  wind 
from  the  northwest,  w  ith  a  few  d  ps  of  rain  and  occasional  sunlight,  threat- 
enins  a  change. 

Artemisia  still  covers  the  plain,  but  Purshia  trideniata  makes  its  appear- 
ance here  on  the  hill  sides  and  on  bottoms  of  the  creeks — quite  a  tree  in 
size,  and  larger  than  the  artemisia.  We  crost^ed  several  hollows  with  a 
little  water  in  ihcm,  and  improved  grass;  and,  turning  oft' from  the  road  in 
the  afternoon  in  search  of  water,  travelled  about  three  miles  up  the  bed  of 
a  willow  creek,  towards  the  mountain,  and  found  a  good  encampment,  with 
wood  and  grao*;.  anr*  little  ponds  of  water  in  the  bed  of  the  creek ;  which 
must  be  of  more  importance  at  other  seasons,  as  we  found  there  several 
old  fixtures  for  fishing.  There  were  many  holes  on  the  creek  prairie, 
which  had  been  made  by  the  diggers  in  search  of  roots. 

Wind  increa3cd  to  a  violent  gale  from  the  NW.,  with  a  temperature  at 
sunset  of  57'. 

October  5. — The  morning  was  calm  and  clear,  and  at  sunrise  the  ther- 
mometer was  at  32".  The  road  to-day  was  occasionally  extremely  rocky, 
with  hard  volcanic  fragments,  and  our  travelling  very  slow.  In  about  nine 
miles  the  road  brought  us  to  a  group  of  smoking  hot  springs,  with  a  tern- 


mm 


[184S.    llS^S.] 


CAIT.  riJIlMONT's  NARRATIVK. 


l'^ 


r  peaki  look 

arc  leaving  I 

boundary  of 

lock  wt)  ar> 

Snuko  river. 

)vc(l  imprac' 

\y  drowning 

ni  out  of  the 

ich  there  arc 

uigrants  had 

other,  so  as 

The  Indians 

cattle  which 

lid  (howncd. 

tonately,  we 

inched  ;  and 

:,the  animalii 

af  the  camp, 

:d,  above  the 

leasuronient. 

We  were 

idian  lodges, 

with  straw, 

our  encarap- 

metric  longi- 

208  miles. 

jnrise  at  47". 

follovvinsii;  up 

out  six  miles 

set  above  the 

ng  a  broken 

nates,  where 

supplies  the 

strong  wind 

ight,threat- 

s  its  appear- 
ite  a  tree  in 
lows  with  a 
1  the  road  in 
p  the  bed  of 
pment,  with 
reek ;  which 
lere  several 
eek  prairie, 

nperature  at 

se  the  ther- 
mely  rocky, 
n  about  nine 
with  a  tern- 


trtttire  of  IGl  .  There  were  a  lowhclianlhi  in  bloon»,  with  some  oti.er 
plants,  and  the  place  wii.s  green  roui  d  about ;  the  ground  warm,  and 
'tbo  tir  picnsicit,  with  a  sumuur  atn)oH|>h(>i(  th.it  wu!)  very  grateful  in  aday 
'Ofhigh  iu.d  cold  searching  \\in<l.  Tin;  imk-.  wo  v.  covered  with  a  white 
and  red  incrustation  ;  and  ihe  water  has  on  the  toiiguc  the  sanit  unplea>- 
•nt  clTect  as  that  of  the  IJasin  spring  on  lioar  rivcT.  They  form  several 
branches,  and  bubble  up  with  force  enough  to  ra'-<o  the  small  pebbles  seve- 
ral inches. 

The  following  is  an  analysis  of  the  depo'>itc  with  which  the  rock;*  ate 
incrustcd  : 

Analysis 


Silica 

Carbonate  of  lime 

Carbonate  of  magnesia 

Oxide  of  iron 

Alumina 

Chloride  of  sodium,  &c. 

Sulphate  of  soda 

Sulphate  of  lime,  &c. 

Organic  vegetable  matter 

Water  and  loss 


72.55 

14.60 
1.20 
4.65 
0.70 

l.IO 


5.30 


100.00 


These  springs  are  near  the  foot  of  the  ridgt;,  (n  dark  and  ruge^ed  looking 
mountain,)  in  which  some  of  the  nearer  rocks  have  a  reddish  appearance, 
and  probably  consist  of  a  reddish- brown  trap,  fragments  of  which  were 
scattered  along  the  road  after  leaving  the  spring.  'I'he  road  was  now  about 
to  cross  the  point  of  this  mountain,  which  we  jnd^ied  to  be  a  spur  from  the 
Salmon  river  range.  We  crossed  a  small  creek,  and  encamped  about 
sunset  on  a  slieam,  which  is  probably  Lake  river.  This  is  a  small  streanj, 
some  five  or  six  feet  broad,  with  a  swift  current,  timbered  principally  vith 
willows  and  some  few  cottonwoods.  Along  the  banks  weie  canes,  rose 
bushes,  and  clematis,  with  Purshia  tridentata  and  artemisias  on  the  upper 
bottom.  The  sombre  appearance  of  the  country  in  somewhat  relieved  in 
coming  unexpectedly  from  the  dark  rocks  upon  these  green  and  wooded 
watercourses,  sunk  in  chasms  ;  and,  in  the  spring,  the  contrasted  effect 
must  make  them  beautiful. 

The  thermometer  at  sunset  47%  and  llic  night  threatening  snow. 

October  6. — The  morning  warm,  the  therniomctor46°  at  sunrise,  and  sky 
entirely  clouded.  After  travellingaboutthree  milesoveranextremely  rocky 
road,  the  volcanic  Iragments  began  to  disappear  ;  and,  entering  among  the 
hills  at  the  point  of  the  mountain,  we  found  ourselves  suddenly  in  a  granite 
country.  Here,  the  character  of  the  vegetation  was  very  much  changed  ; 
the  artemisia  disappeared  almost  entirely,  showing  only  at  intervals  towards 
the  close  of  the  day,  and  was  replaceu  by  Purshia  tridentata,  with  flowering 
shrubs,  and  small  fieldsofdie/eriarfivancfl/a,  which  gave  bloom  and  gayety 
to  the  hills.  These  were  every  where  covered  with  a  fresh  and  green  short 
grass,  like  that  of  the  early  spring.  This  is  the  fall  or  second  growth,  the 
dried  grass  having  been  burnt  off  by  the  Indians;  and  wherever  the  fire 
has  passed,  the  bright-green  color  is  universal.     The  soil  among  the  hills 


V 


Si 


I  VN^I 


15C 


CAPT.   FRKMONT'fl  VAIlRATIVE. 


[tMt» 


B 


4j^ 


^i* 


m-- 


is  altogether  diirerciit  lioin  tliitl  ol  titn  river  plnin,  being  in  many  pUi 
lilack,  in  othoiH  sandy  ond  gravcdiy,  but  of  u  (inn  and  good  (liaraeter,  ap« 
|)curing  to  rcHult  lioni  the  doconiposition  ot'  (ho  granite  rockn,  which  ispro* 
ctieding  rapidly. 

In  quilting  lur  a  time  the  aiti>niiitia  (Hage )  through  which  we  had  bee* 
so  h)ng  voyaging,  and  the  Motnhre  appearanee  of  which  is  no  di!icourtigin||i^ 
I  have  to  remark,  that  I  have  been  inlot nicd  that  in  Mexico  wheat  in  grown 
upon  llie  ground  which  pt (i(hi(-<-.s  (his  .sht  ub  ;  which,  il  (rur,  relieves  the  Hoil 
Iruni  the  character  ol  o.eiiiilv  iinpuled  to  it.  He  this  ai>  it  ni;iy,  there  is  nu 
dispute  about  the  grass,  uhich  is  almost  universal  on  the  hills  and  nioun- 
taitiit,  and  always  nutritious,  even  in  its  dry  state.  We  pasi-iod  on  the  way 
masses  of  granite?  on  the  slope  of  a  spur,  which  was  very  niu<h  weathered 
and  abraded.  I'his  is  a  wliitr  hldspathic  granite,  w ith  sniidl  scales  ot 
blue!.,  mica ;  smoky  (piartx.  and  garnets  appear  to  constitute  this  portion  of 
the  mountain. 

The  road  at  noon  reached  a  broken  ridge,  on  whidi  were  scattered  many 
boulders  or  blocks  of  granite  ;  and,  passing  very  small  streams,  where,  with 
a  little  more  than  the  usual  timber,  was  sometimes  gathered  a  little  wilder- 
ness uf  plants,  we  encamped  on  a  small  streau),  after  u  march  of  22  miles, 
in  company  with  a  few  Indians.  Temperature  at  sunset  51" ;  and  the  night 
was  partially  clear,  with  a  few  stars  visible  through  drilling  wiiite  clouds. 
The  Indians  made  an  unsuccessful  attenjpt  tost(;al  a  lew  horses  from  us — a 
thing  of  course  with  them,  und  to  prevent  which  the  traveller  is  on  pci- 
])Ctual  watch. 

October  7. — The  day  was  bright,  clear,  and  pleasant,  with  a  temperature 
of  id';  and  we  breakfasted  at  sunrise,  the  birds  singing  in  the  trees  as 
merrily  us  if  we  weio  in  the  midst  of  sunmier.  On  the  upper  eilge  of  the 
hills  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  cicek,  the  black  volcanic  rock  reappears  ; 
und  ascending  these,  the  road  passed  through  a  basin,  around  which  the 
hills  swept  in  such  a  manner  as  to  give  it  the  appearance  of  an  old  crater. 
Here  were  strata  and  broken  beds  of  black  scoriated  rock,  and  hills  com- 
posed of  the  same,  on  the  summit  of  one  of  which  there  was  an  opening  re- 
senibliiig  a  rent.  We  tiavclled  to-day  through  a  country  resembling  that 
of  yesterday,  where,  although  the  surface  was  hilly,  the  road  was  good,  be- 
ing firm,  and  entirely  free  irom  locks  and  artemisiu.  To  our  left,  below, 
was  the  great  sage  plain  ;  and  on  the  right  were  the  near  mountains,  which 
presented  a  smoothly  broken  character,  or  rather  a  suiluce  waved  into 
numberless  hills.  The  road  was  occasionally  enlivened  by  meeting  In- 
dians, and  the  day  was  extremely  beautiful  and  pleasant ;  and  we  were 
pleased  to  be  free  from  liie  sage,  even  for  a  day.  When  we  had  trav- 
elled about  8  miles,  we  were  nearly  opposite  to  the  highest  portion  of  the 
mountains  on  the  leftside  of  tiie  Smoke  river  valley  ;  and,  continuing  on  a 
few  miles  beyond,  we  came  suddenly  in  sight  of  the  broad  green  line  of 
the  valley  of  the  Riviere  Boisce^  (wooded  river,)  black  near  the  gorge 
where  it  debouches  into  the  plains,  with  high  precipices  of  basalt,  between 
walls  of  which  it  passes,  on  emerging  from  the  mountains.  Following 
with  the  eye  its  upward  course,  it  appears  to  be  shut  in  among  lofty  moun- 
tains, confining  its  valley  in  a  very  rugged  country. 

Descending  the  hills,  after  travelling  a  lew  miles  along  the  high  plain, 
the  road  brought  us  down  upon  the  bottoms  of  the  river,  which  is  a  beau- 
tiful rapid  stream,  with  clear  tnountain  water,  and,  as  the  name  indicates, 
well  wooded  with  some  varieties  of  timber — among  which  are  handsome  cot- 
lonwoods.     Such  a  stream  had  become  quite  a  novelty  in  this  country,  and 


mny  plaoW 
•kiacter,  up* 
liich  is  pro* 

ti  had  beesi 

!>c()uraginfi^ 

lilt  in  ^rown 

ivcii  thu  (K)il 

ilicic  is  nu 

and  moun- 

(M»  (lie  way 

wcallicrod 

11  scales  ul 

i  portion  oi 

Iteicd  inaiiy 
ivlieie,  with 
ttio  wildcr- 
ol  22  inilcc), 
1(1  the  night 
iiite  clouds. 
iVom  119 — a 
I   is  oil  pel- 

enipcratuie 
he  trees  as 
i'a\^o  of  tlie 
reappears  ; 
which  the 
old  crater, 
hills  com- 
i»pening  re- 
iiMing  that 
IS  good,  be- 
fit, below, 
lins,  which 
rtaved  into 
iceting  In- 
d  we  were 
B  had  trav- 
tion  of  the 
nuing  on  a 
cen  line  of 
the   gorge 
t,  between 
Following 
ofty  moun- 

high  plain, 
is  a  beau- 
i  indicates, 
dsome  cot- 
)untry,and 


CAI'T.  FREMONT  «  NVmiATIVE. 


117 


were  firlightod  tlii*<  afternoon  to  tuake  a  pliM««ant  cnmp  under  fine  old 
)tr0«8  Again.  Thcru  wove  several  Indian  encanipintiits  .Hcattcrcd  along  the 
^rlver ;  and  .t  niintlier  of  thi'ir  InhahitantM,  in  (he  roiirso  of  the  evening, 
«tmc  to  the  camp  on  liorsebark  with  dried  and  Irehh  fish  to  trude.  Thu 
evening  was  <iear,  and  the  teinpcratun!  at  mitiset  57**. 

At  the  time  of  the  firMt  occupation  of  this  region  by  porties  engaged  in 

the  fur  trade,  a  Hmall  p;irty  n(  men  umlor  the  command  of  Heid, 

constituting  all  the  gi.rriHon  of  a  little  foit  on  this  river,  were  surprised  and 
massacre<l  by  the  Indians;  and  to  thi^  event  the  stream  owes  its  occasional 
name  of  Ueul\i  rivet. 

On  the  Hth  we  travelled  about  26  miles,  the  ridge  on  the  right  havinir 
Moattercd  pines  on  the  upper  parts;  and,  continuing  the  next  day  our  roaci 
along  the  rivci  bottom,  after  a  day's  travel  ol  21  miles  we  encamped  in 
the  evening  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  a  mile  above  the  mouth,  and 
early  the  next  moiniiig  arrived  at  Fort  Itoiy.v.  This  is  a  simple  dwelling- 
house  on  the  right  bank  of  Snake  river,  af)'>nt  a  mib;  below  the  mouth  of 
Uivii're  Moissco  ;  and  on  our  arrival  we  were  leceived  with  an  agieeablo 
hospitality  by  ,Mi.  I'aycttte,  an  officer  of  the  Hudson  IJay  ('onipany,  in 
charge  ot  the  fort ;  all  of  whose  garrison  consisted  in  a  Canadian  en^af^e. 

Hero  the  i-oad  lecrosses  the  river,  which  is  itroad  and  deep;  but,  with 
our  good  boat,  aided  by  two  canoes,  which  were  found  at  the  place,  the 
camp  was  \eiy  soon  ttansferred  to  the  loft  bank.  Here  we  found  ourselves 
again  surrounded  by  the  sage;  urtemi>ia  tridentata,ari(l  the  ditferent  shrubs 
which  during  out  voyage  had  always  maui'  their  .^ppearanc^e  abundantly 
un  saline  soils,  being  lieie  the  prevailing  and  a.tmost  the  only  plants. 
Among  them  the  surface  was  covered  with  tin;  usuAl  saline  efflorescences, 
which  here  consist  almost  entirely  of  carbonate  ol  soda,  with  a  small  por- 
tion of  chloriile  of  sodium.  Mr.  Payette  had  made  but  slight  attempts  at 
cultivation,  his  ell'orts  being  limited  to  raisinv;  a  lew  veget.ibles,  in  which 
he  succf^eded  tolerably  well ;  the  post  being  principally  supported  by  sal- 
mon, lie  was  very  hospitable  and  kind  to  us,  and  we  made  a  sensible  im- 
pression upon  all  his  comestibles;  but  our  princi|)ai  inroad  was  into  the 
dairy,  which  was  abundantly  supplied,  stock  appe  u  ing  to  thrive  extremcdy 
well;  and  we  had  an  unusual  luxury  in  a  prevent  of  tresh  butter,  which 
was,  however-,  by  no  means  equal  to  that  of  Fort  Hall — probably  from 
some  accidental  cause.  During  the  day  we  remained  here,  there  were 
considerable  numbers  of  miserable  half- naked  Indians  around  the  fort,  who 
had  arrived  from  (he  neighboring  moinitains.  During  the  summei",  the 
only  subsistence  of  these  people  is  derived  trom  (be  salmon,  of  which  tliey 
are  not  provident  enough  to  lay  up  a  sutlicient  store  for  the  winter,  during 
which  many  of  them  die  from  absolute  starvation. 

Many  little  accounts  and  scattered  histor  ies,  together  with  an  acquaint- 
ance which  I  gradually  acquired  of  their  modeis  of  life,  had  'eft  the  abori- 
ginal inhabitants  of  (his  vast  region  pictured  in  my  mind  as  &  race  of  peo- 
ple whose  groat  and  constant  occupation  was  the  means  of  procuring  a  sub- 
sistence ;  and  though  want  ol  space,  and  other  reasons,  will  prfivent  me 
from  detailing  the  many  incidents  which  made  these  things  familiar  to  me, 
this  great  feature  among  the  characteristics  of  the  country  will  gradually 
be  forced  upon  your  mind. 

Pointing  to  a  group  of  Indians  who  had  just  arrived  from  the  mountains 
on  the  left  side  of  the  valley,  and  who  were  regarding  our  usual  appliances 
of  civilization  with  an  air  of  bewildered  curiosity,  Mr.  Payette  infoimed  me 


MS 


CAPT.  FKKMONT'W  NARRATIVK. 


[IMt 


1*    "' 


i'Vi 


■    .V 


•^-.v 


7*/l 


1 

(hat,  every  ycnr  HirxM'  liin  nniviil  at  tliid  poMt,  hn  hnil  un»'tirrf»«iHrulljr  m. 
clriivored  to  induce  (lumc  |i<>(i|ilc  (o  lay  up  a  store  ol  ftalnioii  lor  llirir  winUr 
provimon.  \Vliilc  tli«<  HtiimiK  r  u either  uiul  thn  silimui  ladled,  (licy  IjtmI 
rontrntcdiy  and  happily,  ftcaKcird  aloii^  the  ditViirciit  stiraiuti  where  tli« 
il'sh  ueru  tu  he  round  ,  and  as  soon  an  the  winter  niiow.h  hc^an  to  l.dl,  litiU 
imukes  would  be  neen  M->in^  arnon^  thu  inountainn,  where  (hey  would  b« 
toiind  in  miserahle  groups,  Ptai  vini(  out  (ho  winter  ;  md  HoinetiiM  •*,  accord* 
in^  to  the  gcMieral  l)(  liel,  t  educed  tolhehorioi  o( CannilMliMn  (he  •ttron^, 
ul  courHc,  pre)int{  on  iht;  weaU.  (Jcitain  it  is,  they  aie  diiveti  (o  an)  ex- 
tremity lor  lood,  and  cut  ever;  ini^eet,  and  every  eieepin^  (hiti^,  however 
loadiNome  and  lepnUivo.  Snailii,  li/urds,  uri(s — all  ate  devoured  with  (he 
rcadine^iN  .ml  greediness  of  mere  anitiials. 

In  eoniinon  widi  all  tlut  odter  indian^wc  had  encountered  sinre  reach* 
ing  (he  Paeiric  watcr.s,  these  peopli;  u'^o  the  Sho.'<honc'e  or  Snake  language, 
which  you  will  have  nccahioii  to  remark,  in  the  course  ol  the  nairutive,  i» 
tjio  universal  language  over  a  V(>ry  extensive  rt'gion. 

On  the  eveiiing  ot  the  iDtli,  I  obtained,  with  tlu!  usual  observations,  a 
very  excellent  emersion  ol  tho  lirst  satellite,  agreeing  very  in'aily  with  tho 
chronometer.  From  (hese  observations,  the  longitude  ol  the  (oit  is  110'- 
•n    00"  ;  latitude  1.']*^  1!)'  12  \  and  elevation  uJK.ve  the  .s.-a  2,100  leet. 

Sitting  by  the  lue  on  (lie  liver  bank,  and  waiting  lor  tbt;  immersion  ol 
(ho  satellite,  which  diil  not  (ake  place  until  alter  niidni;;b(,  we  heard  tlio 
monotonous  ^ong  ol'  the  Indians,  with  which  (hey  acconip  <  ly  n  ccitain 
u;atne  of  which  they  are  vciy  Ibiid.  Of  the  poetry  wo  could  not  judge, 
but  tho  music,  was  miseraldo. 

October  1 1. — The  moiiiing  Wi's  dear,  with  a  light  bree/e  iVoin  the  cast, 
and  a  temperature  at  suiiii.xe  ot  .IJ*^.  .\  part  ol  abnllcck  piircdiiiscd  at  the 
Ibrt,  together  with  die  bout  to  as.^ist  him  in  cioshing,  was  lelt  here  for  Mr. 
Tit/patrick,  niui  at  11  o'cdotk  we  resumed  our  journey  ;  ami  diuclly  leav- 
ing the  river,  and  crossing  lh(.'  ai  ienii.>>ia  plain,  in  several  ajceits  wo  reached 
die  foot  of  a  lidge,  where  the  load  entered  a  dry  sandy  ladlow  up  whicli 
it  continued  to  the  head  ;  and,  crossing  a  dividing  lidge,  enl'tcd  a  similar 
one.  We  met  here  two  poor  emigrants, ( Irishmen,) who  li;ul  Inst  ilicir  horses 
two  dajs  since  — pr(tbal)ly  stolen  by  (ho  Indians;  and  were  tetiirning  to  the 
fort,  in  hopes  to  hear  soniotbiiiJi  ordicni  there.  They  had  rect  ?idy  had  noth- 
ing to  eat ;  and  1  halted  to  unpack  an  animal,  and  gave  them  moat  for  their 
dinner.  In  this  hollow,  the  aitcmisia  is  partially  displaced  on  the  hill  sides 
by  grass;  and  descending  it  —  miles,  about  sunscit  we  reaciied  the  Uivicre 
(Uij:  Malheurs^  (the  unloitunite  or  unlucky  river,)  a  considerable  stream, 
with  an  average  breadth  ol  50  leet,  and,  at  this  time,  lb  inches  depth  of  water. 

The  bottom  lands  were  gencially  one  and  a  half  mile  broad,  covered 
principally  with  Iool'  dry  gra^s  ;  and  we  had  dilFicully  to  find  sufficient 
good  glass  for  the  camp.  VV  iih  the  exception  of  a  bad  |)lace  of  a  few  hun- 
dre<l  yards  long,  which  occurred  in  rounding  a  point  of  hill  to  reach  the 
ford  of  the  river,  (he  road  duiing  the  day  had  been  very  go(;d. 

October  12. — The  morning  was  clear  and  calm,  and  the  tliermometei*  at 
sunrise  23".  My  attention  was  attracted  by  a  smoke  on  the  right  side  ot 
the  river,  a  little  below  the  ford,  where  I  found  on  the  low  bank,  near  the 
water,  a  considerable  number  of  hot  springs,  in  which  the  teiuperature  ol 
the  water  was  193*^.  The  ground,  which  was  too  hot  for  the  naked  foot, 
WPS  covered  above  and  below  the  springs  with  an  incrust.ttion  of  common 
salt,  very  white  and  good,  and  lino  grained. 


r  tlirir  %vinUr 
(I,  tlicy  livsd 
tiH  where  tlit 
I)  to  tall,  littlf 
K  y  would  b« 
int  !i,  accord* 
— tlu5  stronn, 
cti  to  liny  CX' 
in^„  however 
iircd  with  (lie 

siiiro  reach- 
ike  lungun^c, 
!  iiuirsitivc,  h 

).sorvution8,  a 
Miily  with  the 
(!  ioi  t  is  I  li)'- 
101)  I'cet. 
iiiwiKMsion  ol 
we  JKMird  thf 
n  \y  a  certain 
id  uol  judge, 

Voin  the  east, 

•hit'ied  at  tlie 

htic  lor  Mr. 

(liicctly  leav- 

s  we  I  cached 

w    u|)  whicli 

»c(!   I  simil.ir 

il.cir  horses 

iiiiii^  to  the 

ly  had  iiuth- 

liC'iit  lor  their 

K!  hill  sides 

the  liivUre 

iihlc  stream, 

pthof  vrater. 

)ad,  covereil 

d   sufficient 

f  a  lew  hun- 

to  reach  the 

rmometer  at 
ri;;ht  side  oi 
nk,  near  the 
uperature  ot 
!  naked  foot, 
ol'  cotnraon 


1141.]  CAI'T.   niKMoNT'8  NAKRATIVB.  139 

Londinfi:  for  Ti  rniirn  up  a  hriiid  dry  hraiioh  nf  the  M  ilhours  river,  the 
fned  enl«'i/d  a  Mandy  hollow,  wluie  lh(>  Nurhice  wu.h  r<*iid<  kmI  liiiu  hy  (ho 
admixture  ol'  other  rock  ;  hein^  good  and  level  until  arriving  n(>ar  the  head 
I'Of  the  ravine,  where  It  heraMie  a  lililc  rocky,  and  we  nut  with  a  iiuiiiher  ol' 
•harp  ascents  o>«>r  an  undulating  MUifaoe,  C'rosHing  her*!  a  divitjin^  '*dgc, 
it  hecaine  an  excellent  road  of  gt,.lwal  descent  down  a  veiy  tiMiUed  hollow  ; 
in  which,  alter  10  mile.M,  willows  hegari  to  appear  in  llur  dry  hcd  ol  a  head 
of  the  Hirirrc  nux  nniilnnix^  (  Bin  h  river;)  aiul  disccndin;;  7  iiiile!i,  wo 
found,  at  its  junction  with  aiioihci  hiancli,  a  littl^  water,  not  veiy  gooii  or 
nhiindant,  hut  {Uiiricient  in  c.i'^c  of  necessity  for  a  ciuip.  ('ros^in^  Birch 
liver,  we  continued  for  ahout  t  iiili  8  acro:>.H  a  point  ol  tiill  ;  the  country  on 
the  hit  h(  ing  entirety  niountainoiis,  w  ith  no  level  spot  to  he  ^eeii  ;  wlunco 
we  descended  to  Sn  dt<>  liver  here  a  f'liie-looking stream,  w ith  a  large  hody 
of  water  .md  p  mdooiIi  cnireiit  ;  although  we  hear  the  rt>ai,  and  see  helow 
us  the  coiniiienceiiient  ot  rapid-^  ^^ll('^e  it  enters  among  the  hilh;.  It  foriiiH 
here  a  deep  hay,  w  itii  a  low  !«and  i»l and  in  the  niid^t ;  and  its  course  among 
the  mountains  is  agreenMy  ext  h^ingi'd  for  the  hiack  volcanic  u)ck.  Tho 
wealluir  during  the  day  had  Im en  \('iy  hright  and  extremely  hot ;  liut,  us 
usual,  S(»  soon  as  the  sun  \vent  down,  it  was  necessary  to  put  ou  ov<  icoats. 

1  ohtained  (his  evening  an  oh>etvaii>)n  of  an  emersion  ot  the  .irst  satcl* 
li>e,  and  our  ohset  vations  ol  the  evening  place  thisencanipiiu  nt  in  latitude 
M  17  iJO  ',  and  longitude  110  olJ  15'  ,  which  is  the  mean  of  the  rc.-^ults 
liom  the  satellite  and  chioiiomeler.  The  elevation  ahove  tlie  sea  l,&8t) 
feet.     At  this  encampment,  thu  grass  is  scanty  and  |)oor. 

Orlohc.r  !;{. — Tho  morning  was  hright,  with  the  temperature  at  sunset 
28\  The  horses  had  strayr d  oil'  dm  ing  the  night,  prol)al)ly  in  search  of 
grass  ;  and,  after  a  eonsideialde  di.lay,  we  had  succeeih  d  in  finding  all  hut 
two,  when,  ahout  f)  o'th»  k,  ^^(>  heard  the  so  ind  of  an  Indian  song  and 
drum  approaching;  and  shortly  after,  three  (^ayuse  Indians  :ip|)eared  it\ 
sight,  hiinging  with  them  th(^  two  animals.  They  l»elon!.',ed  to  a  party 
which  had  heen  on  a  hulValo  hunt  in  thi-  neighhoihooil  ol  the  h'oeky  moun- 
tains, and  were  hurrying  homo  in  advance.  We  presented  ihoin  with 
some  tohacco,  and  other  things,  with  which  they  appeared  well  satisfied, 
and,  moderating  their  pace,  travelled  in  company  with  119. 

We  were  now  ahout  U>  leave  the  Mdley  of  the  great  southeiM  hranrh  of 
the  Columl)ia  river,  to  whicli  the  ahsencc  of  timhcr,  and  the  scarcity  of 
water,  give  the  appearance  of  a  do.jert,  to  enter  a  mountainous  region  where 
the  soil  is  goo<l,  and  in  uhi(  h  the  face  of  the  country  is  covered  w  ith  nutri- 
tious grasses  and  dense  forest — land  emhracing  many  varieties  of  trees  pe- 
culiar to  the  country,  and  on  which  the  timher  exhihits  a  luxuiiance  of 
growth  unknown  to  the  eastern  part  of  the  continent  and  to  Kuiope.  This 
mountainous  region  connects  itself  in  the  southward  and  we^tward  with 
tlie  elevated  country  helonging  to  the  Cascade  or  California  range  ;  and, 
as  will  he  remarked  in  the  course  of  (he  narrative,  lorms  the  e.^^tern  limit  of 
the  fertile  and  timher ed  Uuids  along  the  desert  and  mountcinous  region  in- 
ch'ded  within  the  Great  Basin — a  term  which  I  apply  to  the  intermediate 
region  holween  the  Rooky  mountains  and  the  next  range ,  containing  many 
lakes,  with  their  own  system  of  rivers  and  creeks,  (of  which  the  (ireat  Salt 
is  (he  principal, )  and  which  have  no  connexion  with  the  ocean,  or  the  great 
livers  which  flow  into  it.  This  Great  Basin  is  yet  to  he  adecpiately  explored. 
And  here,  on  quitting  the  hanks  of  a  sterile  liver,  to  enter  on  arahle  moun- 
tains, the  remark  may  he  made,  that,  on  this  western  slope  of  our  continent, 


C' 


160 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


^-^. 

?^',.' 


4 


i*'-.v::\ 


■  '■•  j;  1  •• 


the  usual  order  or  distribution  of  good  and  bad  soil  is  often  reversed  ;  lh« 
iiver  and  crccic  bottoms  beinj;  often  sterile,  and  darkened  with  the  glooiQT 
and  barren  arternisia  ;  while  the  mountain  is  often  fertih^,  and  covered 
with  rich  grass,  pleasant  to  the  eye,  and  good  for  flocks  and  herds. 

Leaving  entirely  the  Snake  river,  which  is  said  henceforth  to  pursue  its 
course  through  canons,  afnidst  rocky  and  impracticable  mountains,  where 
there  is  no  [)ossibility  of  travelling  with  animals,  we  ascended  a  long  and 
somewhat  steep  hill ;  ani  crossing  the  dividing  ridge,  came  down  into  the 
valley  of  Burnt  rivi-r,  which  here  looks  like  a  hole  among  the  hills.  The 
average  breadth  of  the  stream  here  is  30  feet  ;  it  is  well  fringed  with  the 
usual  small  timber;  and  the  soil  in  the  bottoms  is  good,  with  better  grass 
than  we  had  lately  been  accustomed  to  see. 

We  now  travelled  through  a  very  mountainous  country  ;  the  stream  run- 
ning rather  in  a  ravine  than  a  valley,  and  the  road  is  decidedly  bad  and 
dangerous  for  single  wagons,  frequently  crossing  the  stream  where  the 
water  is  so:netin)es  deep;  and  all  the  day  the  animals  were  fatigued  in 
climbing  up  and  descending  a  succession  of  steep  ascents,  to  avo:d  the  pre- 
cipitous hill  sides;  and  the  common  trail,  which  leads  along  the  mountain 
side  at  places  where  the  river  strikes  the  base,  is  sometimes  bad  even  for 
a  horseman.  The  irountains  along  this  day's  journey  were  composed,  near 
the  river,  of  a  slaty  calcareous  rock  in  a  mctamor})hic  condition.  It  ap- 
pears originally  to  have  been  a  slaty  sedimentary  limestone,  but  its  pres- 
ent condition  indicates  that  it  has  been  altered,  and  has  become  partially 
crystalline — probably  from  tiie  proximity  of  volcanic  rocks.  But  though 
travelling  was  slow  and  fatiguing  to  the  animals,  we  were  delighted  vith 
the  appearance  of  the  country,  which  was  green  and  refreshing  after  our 
tedious  journey  down  the  parched  valley  of  Snake  river.  The  mountains 
were  covered  with  good  bunch  grass,  Qcstuca  ;)  the  wator  of  the  streams 
was  cold  and  pure;  their  bottoms  were  handsomely  wooded  with  various 
kinds  of  trees  ;  and  huge  and  lofty  and  picturesque  precipices  were  dis- 
played where  the  river  cut  through  the  mountains. 

We  found  in  the  evening  some  good  grass  and  rushes;  and  encamped 
among  large  timber,  principally  birch,  which  had  been  recently  burnt  and 
blackened,  and  almost  destroyed  by  fire.  The  night  was  calm  and  tolera- 
bly clear,  with  th(?  thermometer  at  sunset  at  59\  Our  journey  to-day  was 
about  20  miles. 

October  14. — The  day  was  clear  and  calm,  with  a  temperature  at  sunrise 
of  46°.  After  travelling  about  three  miles  up  the  valley,  we  found  the 
river  shut  up  by  precipices  in  a  kind  of  canon,  and  the  road  makes  a  cir- 
cuit over  the  mountains.  In  the  afternoon  we  reached  the  river  ^^ain,  by 
another  little  ravine;  and,  after  travelling  along  it  for  a  few  miles,  left  it 
enclosed  among  rude  mountains;  and,  ascending  a  smaller  branch,  en- 
camped on  it  abniii:  5  o'clock,  very  much  elevated  above  the  valley.  The 
view  was  every  where  limited  by  mountains,  on  which  were  no  longer  seen 
the  black  and  barren  rocks,  but  a  fertile  soil,  with  excellent  grass,  and 
partly  well  covered  with  pine.  I  have  never  seen  a  wagon  road  equally 
bad  in  the  same  space,  as  this  of  yesteiday  and  to-day.  I  noticed  where 
one  wagon  had  been  overturned  t.»iee,  in  a  very  short  distance;  and  it 
was  surprising  to  me  that  those  wagons  which  were  in  the  rear,  and  could 
not  have  had  much  assistance,  got  through  at  all.  Still,  there  is  no  mud  ; 
an'*,  the  road  has  one  advantage,  in  being  perfectly  firm.  The  day  had 
been  warm  -ind  very  pleasant,  and  the  night  was  perfectly  clear. 


anl 

bl( 

tii( 

nu 

col 

de 

end 

of 


[18^1 

versed ;  libt 
the  gloomjr 
nd  covered 

;rds. 

to  pursue  its 
tains,  where 
i  a  long  and 
)wn  into  the 
J  hills.  The 
red  with  the 
better  grass 

stream  riin- 
dly  bad  and 
1  where  the 

fatigued  in 
;^o:d  the  pre- 
lie  mountain 
bad  even  for 
iiposed,  neat 
tion.  It  ap- 
but  its  pres- 
)me  partially 

But  though 
ilighted  v'ith 
ing  after  our 
ie  mountains 
*  the  streams 
with  various 
es  were  dis- 

J  encamped 
y  burnt  and 
1  and  tolera- 
to-day  was 

re  at  sunrise 
fe  found  the 
lakes  a  cir- 
ir  ''oain,  by 
liles,  left  it 
[branch,  en- 
lalley.  The 
1  longer  seen 
grass,  and 
load  equally 
lliced  where 
ice ;  and  it 
\f  and  could 
I  is  no  mud  ; 
he  day  had 


^3.] 


CAPT.  FRRMONT'8  NARRATIVE. 


IGl 


October  IT}. — The  thorinonioter  at  daylight  was  42%  and  at  sunrise  40°; 
>clouds,  which  were  scatf(Mit;d  over  nil  the  sky,  disaf)ptared  with  (ho  rising 
Win.  The  trail  did  not  uiiicli  iniprovu  until  we  had  crossed  the  dividing 
grounds  between  the  BniU-  (Miirnt)  and  Powder  rivers.  Th(!  rock  dis- 
played on  the  mountains,  as  we  approached  the  summit,  was  a  compact 
trap,  decomposing  on  the  tixposod  surfaces,  and  apj)ar(Mitly  an  altered  ar- 
gillaceous sandstone,  conlaiuini,'  .small  crystalline  noduluNof  anolcirue,  ap- 
parently filling  cavities  orii,MiKilly  existmg.  From  the  .summit  li<;re,  the 
whole  horizon  shows  lii'^li  mouutains  ;  no  high  plain  or  level  is  to  bo  seen; 
and  on  the  left,  from  south  around  by  the  west  to  north,  the  mounraius  are 
black  with  ];^iues;  while,  through  the  ren.aining  space  to  the  ea.stward, 
they  are  bald  with  the  exception  of  some  scattered  pines.  Vou  will  re- 
mark that  we  are  now  euiering  a  region  where  all  the  elevated  parts  are 
covered  with  dense  and  heavy  forests.  From  the  dividinur  groiuids  we 
descended  by  a  mouiUain  road  to  Powder  river,  on  an  ol  I  bed  ol"  which  we 
encamped.  Descendins,'  from  the  simunit,  we  enjoyed  ;i  i)ictnrt'.'>qiie  view 
of  high  rocky  uiountaiup  on  the  right,  illuminated  by  ilu!  setting  sun. 

From  the  heights  we  had  looked  in  vain  for  a  well-known  landniark  on 
Powder  river,  which  had  been  described  to  me  by  Mr.  Pay(;tt(i  as  I'arbre 
sen/,  (the  lone  tree;)  and,  on  anivingat  the  river,  we  I'onnd  ;i  line  tall  pine 
stretched  on  the  gruund,  which  had  been  felled  by  some  inconsiderate 
emigrant  axe.  It  had  been  a  beacon  on  the  road  for  many  years  past. 
Our  Cayuses  had  become  impatient  to  reach  their  homes,  and  travelled  on 
ahead  to-day;  and  this  afternoon  wo  were  visited  by  .sevi  r.il  Indians,  who 
belonged  to  the  tribes  on  the  Columbia.  They  were  on  hor.seback,  and 
were  oiU  on  a  hunting  excinsion,  but  had  obtained  no  better  game  tlian  a 
large  gray  hare,  of  which  eaeh  had  some  eux  or  seven  hanging  to  his  sad- 
dle. We  were  also  vi!^•ite(l  by  an  Indian  who  had  his  lodge  and  family  in 
the  mountaiii  to  the  loft.  He  was  in  want  of  amnmmiion,  and  brought 
with  him  a  beaver  skin  to  exchange,  and  winch  he  valued  at  six  charges 
of  powder  and  ball.  I  learned  from  him  that  there  are  very  i'cw  of  »hese 
animals  remaining  in  thi.s  part  of  the  country. 

The  temperature  at  sunset  was  ()l°,  and  the  evening  clear.  I  obtained, 
with  other  observations,  an  ihiniersiou  and  emersion  of  the  third  satellite. 
Elevation  3,100  feet. 

October  16. — For  several  weeks  the  weather  in  the  daytime  has  been 
very  beautiful,  clear,  and  warm  ;  but  the  nights,  in  comparison,  are  very 
cold.  During  the  tnght  there  was  ice  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  iu  the 
lodge;  and  at  daylight  the  thermometer  was  at  16*-^  and  the  s;mie  at  sun- 
rise; the  weather  being  calm  ai;d  clear.  The  annual  vegetation  now  is 
nearly  gone,  almost  all  the  plants  being  out  of  bloom. 

Last  night  two  of  our  horses  had  run  off  again,  which  delayed  us  until 
noon ;  and  we  made  to  day  but  a  short  journey  of  13  miles,  the  road  being 
very  good,  and  encamped  in  a  fine  hitttom  of  Powder  river. 

The  thermometer  at  sunset  was  at  61°,  with  an  easterly  wmiuJ,  and  par- 
tially clear  sky ;  and  the  day  has  been  quite  plea.sant  and  warm,  though 
more  cloudy  than  yesterday  ;  and  the  sun  was  frequently  faint,  but  it  grew 
finer  and  clearer  towards  evening. 

October  17. — Thermonie'ier  at  sunrise  25°.  The  weather  at  daylight 
was  fine,  and  the  sky  without  a  cloud  ;  but  these  came  up,  or  were  formed 
with  the  sun,  and  at  7  were  thick  over  all  the  sky.  Just  now,  this  appears 
to  be  the  regular  course — clear  and  brilliant  during  t'.ie  night,  and  cloudy 
11 


\  ■ 


If'       f 


162  CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE.  [1843. 

during  the  day.  Tliore  is  snow  yet  visible  in  the  neighborinG:^ mountain*, 
which  yesterday  extended  along  our  route  tu  the  loft,  in  a  lol'ty  and  dark* 
blue  range,  having  much  the  appearance  ol"  the  Wind  river  mountains. 
It  is  probable  lliai  they  have  received  then*  name  ol'  the  Blue  mountaint 
from  the  dark-blue  apj  curance  given  to  ihem  by  the  pines.  We  travelled 
this  morning  across  the  aliluents  to  Powder  river,  the  road  being  good,  firm, 
and  level;  and  the  country  became  constantly  more  pleasant  and  interest- 
ing.  The  soil  appeared  to  be  very  deep,  and  is  black  and  extremely  good, 
as  well  among  the  hollows  of  the  hills  on  the  elevated  plats,  as  on  the  river 
bottoms ;  the  vegetation  being  such  as  is  usually  found  in  good  ground. 
The  followmg  analytical  result  shows  tlin  precise  (jnalities  of  this  soil,  and 
will  justify  to  science  the  character  of  fertility  which  the  eye  attributes 
to  it: 

Analysis  of  Powder  river  soil. 


Silica 

Alumina  - 
Carbonate  of  lime 
Carbonate  of  magnesia 
Oxide  of  iron 
Organic  matter 
Water  and  loss 


72.30 
6  25 
6.S6 
4.HI 
1.20 
4.50 
4.27 

100.00 


m 


Fromthe  waters  of  this  stream,  tie  road  ascended  by  a  good  and  moderate 
ascent  to  a  dividing  ridge,  but  imn.ediately  entered  upon  ground  covered 
with  fragments  of  an  altered  siliceous  slate,  which  are  in  many  places  large, 
and  render  the  road  racking  to  a  carriage.  In  this  rock  the  planes  of 
deposition  are  distinctly  preserved,  and  the  metamorphism  is  evidently  due 
to  the  proximity  of  volcanic  rocks.  On  eitlier  side,  the  mountains  here  are 
densely  covered  with  tall  and  handsome  trees ;  and,  mingled  with  the  green 
of  a  variety  of  pines,  is  the  yellow  of  the  European  larch  (pinus  larix,) 
which  loses  its  leaves  in  tiie  fall.  From  its  present  color,  we  were  enabled 
to  see  that  it  forms  a  large  proportion  of  the  forests  on  the  mountains,  and 
is  here  a  magnificent  tree,  attaining  sometimes  the  height  of  200  feet,  which 
I  believe  is  elsewhere  unknown.  About  two  in  the  afternoon  we  reached 
a  high  point  of  the  dividing  ridge,  from  which  we  obtained  a  food  view  of 
the  Grand  Bond — a  beautiful  level  basin,  or  mountain  valley,  covered  with 
good  grass,  on  a  rich  soil,  abundantly  watered,  and  surrounded  by  high 
and  well-timbered  mountains;  and  its  name  descriptive  of  its  form — the 
great  circle.  It  is  a  place — one  of  the  few  we  have  seen  in  our  journey  so 
far — where  a  farmer  would  delight  to  establish  himself,  if  he  were  content 
to  live  in  the  seclusion  which  it  imposes.  It  is  about  20  miles  in  diameter; 
and  may,  in  time,  form  a  superb  county.  Probably  with  the  view  of  avoid- 
ing a  circuit,  the  wagons  had  directly  descended  into  the  Bond  by  the  face 
of  a  hill  so  very  rocky  and  continuously  steep  as  to  be  apparently  imprac- 
ticable ;  and,  following  down  on  their  trail,  we  encamped  on  one  of  the 
branches  of  the  Grand  Rond  riv^er,  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  hill.  I 
had  remarked,  in  descending,  some  very  white  spots  glistening  on  the  plain, 
and.  going  out  in  that  direction  after  we  had  encamped,  I  found  them  to  be 


[1843. 
\ 
mountaiot, 

y  and  dark- 
mo  ii|jitain8. 
mount  aim 
Vo  travelled 
^  good,  firm, 
iiid  intercst- 
emoly  good, 
on  the  river 
)od  ground, 
his  soil,  and 
-e  altributts 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


163 


72.30 
6  25 
6.S6 
4.<)-2 
1.20 
4.50 
4.27 

100.00 

nd  moderate 
und  covered 
places  large, 
|lie  planes  of 
videnlly  due 
ains  here  are 
ith  the  green 
imis  larix,) 
ere  enabled 
untains,  and 
0  feet,  which 
we  reached 
oodvicw  of 
overed  with 
ed  by  high 
3  form — the 
|ir  journey  so 
rero  content 
in  diameter; 
3W  of  avoid- 
by  the  face 
itly  imprac- 
f  the 


one  o 


Ithe  hill.     I 

)n  the  plain, 

them  to  be 


«843.] 

the  bed  of  a  dry  salt  lake,  or  niar.sh,  very  firm  and  bare,  which  was  covered 
thickly  with  a  fine  white  powder,  containing  a  largo  quantity  of  ci  rbonato 
of  soda,  (thirty-three  in  one  hundred  parts.) 

The  old  grass  had  been  lately  burnt  off  I'rom  the  surrounding  hills,  and, 
•wherever  the  fire  had  passed,  there  was  a  recent  growth  of  strong,  green, 
and  vigorous  grass  ;  and  the  soil  of  the  level  prairie,  wliich  sweeps  directly 
'up  to  the  foot  of  the  surrounding  mountains,  appoars  to  be  very  rich,  pro- 
ducing flax  spontaneously  and  luxuriantly  in  various  places. 


Jlnalysis  of  the  Grand  Rond  soil. 


Silica       -  -  -  . 

Alumina  -  .  -  - 

Lime  and  magnesia 

Oxide  of  iron 

Vegetable  matter,  partly  decomposed 

Water  and  loss     -  .  - 

Phosphate  of  lime 


70.81 
10.97 
1.38 
2.21 
8.16 
5.46 
l.OL 

100.00 


The  elevation  of  this  encampment  is  2,940  feet  above  the  sea. 

October  18. — It  began  to  rain  an  hour  before  sunrise,  und  continued  until 
10  o'clock  ;  the  sky  entirely  overcast,  and  the  temperature  at  sunrise  48°. 

We  resumed  our  journey  somewhat  later  than  usual,  travelling  in  a 
nearly  north  direction  across  this  beautiful  valley  ;  and  about  noon  reached 
a  place  on  one  of  the  principal  streams,  where  I  had  determined  to  leave 
the  emigrant  trail,  in  the  expectation  of  finding  a  more  direct  and  better 
road  across  tlie  Blue  mountains.  At  this  place  the  emigrants  appeared  to 
have  held  some  consultation  as  to  their  further  route,  and  finally  turned 
directly  off  to  the  left ;  reaching  the  foot  of  the  mountain  in  about  three 
miles,  which  they  ascended  by  a  hill  as  sleep  and  difficult  as  that  by  which, 
we  had  yesterday  descended  to  the  Rond.  Quitting,  therefore,  this  road, 
which,  after  a  very  rough  crossing,  issues  from  the  mountains  by  the  heads 
of  the  Vinatilah  river,  we  continued  our  northern  course  across  the  valley, 
following  an  Indian  trail  which  had  been  indicated  to  me  by  Mr.  Payette, 
and  encamped  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  Grand  Rond,  on  a  slough- 
like stream  of  very  deep  water,  without  any  apparent  current.  There  are 
some  pines  here  on  the  low  hills  at  the  creek  ;  and  in  the  northwest  corner 
of  the  Rond  is  a  very  heavy  body  of  timber,  which  descends  into  the  plain. 
The  clouds,  which  had  rested  very  low  along  the  mountain  sides  during 
the  day,  rose  gradually  up  in  the  afternoon ;  and  in  the  evening  the  sky- 
was  almost  entirely  clear,  with  a  temperature  at  sunset  of  47°-  Some  in- 
different observations  placed  the  camp  in  longitude  117°  28'  26'',  latitude 
45°  26'  47"  ;  and  the  elevation  was  2,600  feet  above  the  sea. 

October  19. — This  morning  the  mountains  were  hidden  by  fog;  there 
was  a  heavy  dew  during  the  night,  in  which  the  exposed  thermometer  at 
daylight  stood  at  32°,  and  at  sunrise  the  temperature  was  35°. 

We  passed  out  of  the  Grand  Rond  by  a  fineroadalong  the  creek,  which, 
for  a  short  distance,  runs  in  a  kind  of  rocky  chasm.  Crossing  a  low  point, 
which  was  a  little  rocky,  the  trail  conducted  into  the  open  valley  of  the 
stream — a  handsome  place  for  farms  ;  the  soil,  even  of  the  hills,  being  rich 


V€- 


■  .^f 

.  .■•■  *.■ 

r 

■  ■■  ;;.'■■  h 


■i^ 


1C4 


CAPT.   FREMONT'S  NARRATIVK. 


[184$. 


*0 


4^ 


and  black.  Passing  tlirongli  a  point  of  pines,  which  boro  evidences  of  ' 
being  much  frequented  by  the  Indians,  and  in  which  the  trees  wereSomo- 
tinics  iiiipnroiitly  200  feet  high  and  3  to  7  feet  in  diameter,  we  hMted 
for  a  few  minutes  in  the  afternoon  at  the  foot  of  the  Klue  mountains)  on 
a  branch  of  ihe  (irand  Hond  river, at  an  elevation  of  2,700  feet.  ]{esuini^g 
our  journey,  we  commenced  tiio  ascent  of  the  mountain  through  an  open 
pine  forest  of  large  and  stately  trees,  among  which  the  balsam  pine  mad6 
its  aj)pearance  ;  the  road  licing  g()od,witli  the  exception  of  one  steep  ascent, 
with  a  corresponding  descent,  which  might  both  have  been  easily  avoided 
1)y  opening  a  way  for  a  short  distance  tlirough  the  timber.  It  would  have 
been  W(!ll  had  we  encamped  on  the  str(>am  where  we  had  halted  below,  as 
the  night  overtook  us  on  the  mountain,  and  we  were  obliged  to  encamp 
withoiit  water,  and  tie  up  the  animals  to  the  trees  for  the  night.  We  had 
halted  on  a  smooth  open  place  of  a  narrow  ridge,  which  descended  very 
rapidly  to  a  ravine  or  piney  hollow,  at  a  considerable  distance  below;  and 
it  was  quite  a  pretty  spot,  had  there  been  water  near.  IJut  the  fires  at 
night  look  vcm'v  cheerless  after  a  day's  march,  when  there  is  no  preparation 
for  supper  going  on  ;  and,  after  sitting  some  time  around  the  blazing  logs, 
Mr.  Preuss  and  Carson,  with  severnl  others,  volunteered  to  take  the  India 
rubber  buckets  and  go  down  into  tlie  ravine  in  search  of  water.  It  was  a 
very  diflicult  way  in  the  darkness  down  the  slippery  side  of  the  steep  moun- 
tain, and  harder  still  to  clind)  about  hail"  a  mile  uj)  again  ;  but  they  found 
the  water,  and  the  cup  of  colfee  (which  it  enabled  us  to  make)  and  bread 
were  only  enjoyed  with  greater  pleasure. 

At  sunset  the  temperature  was  4b^;  the  evening  remarkably  clear;  and 
1  obtained  an  emersion  of  the  fust  satellite,  which  does  not  give  a  good  re- 
sult, although  the  observation  was  a  very  good  one.  The  chronometric 
longitude  was  117°  2S'  .14",  latitude  45'^  '3S'  07",  and  we  had  ascended  to 
an  elevation  of  3,S30  feet.  It  appeared  lo  have  snowed  yesterday  on  the 
mountains,  their  summits  showing  verv  white  to-day. 

October  2ii. — There  was  a  heavy  white  frost  during  the  night,  and  at 
sunrise  the  temperature  was  37°. 

The  animals  had  eaten  nothing  during  the  night ;  and  we  made  an  early 
start,  continuing  our  route  among  the  pines,  which  were  more  dense  than 
yesterday,  and  still  retained  their  magnificent  size.  The  larches  cluster 
together  in  masses  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  and  their  yellow  foliage 
contrasts  handsomely  with  the  green  of  the  balsam  and  other  pines.  After 
a  few  miles  we  ceased  lo  see  any  ))ines,and  the  timber  consisted  of  several 
varieties  of  spruce,  larch,  and  balsam  pine,  which  have  a  regularly  conical 
figure.  These  trees  ajjpeared  Iroin  GO  to  nearly  200  feet  in  height ;  the 
usual  circumference  being  10  to  12  feet,  and  in  the  pines  sometimes  21  feet. 
In  open  places  near  the  summit,  these  trees  became  less  high  and  more 
branching,  the  conical  form  having  a  greater  base.  The  instrument  car- 
riage occasioned  much  delay,  it  being  frequently  necessary  to  fell  trees  and 
remove  the  fallen  timber.  The  trail  we  were  following  led  up  a  long  spur, 
with  a  very  gradual  and  gentle  rise. 

At  the  end  of  three  miles,  we  halted  at  an  open  place  near  the  summit, 
from  which  we  enjoyed  a  fine  view  over  the  mountainous  country  where 
we  had  lately  travelled,  to  take  a  barometrical  observation  at  the  height  of 
1,7G0  feet. 

After  travelling  occasionally  through  open  places  in  the  forest,  we  were 
obUged  to  cut  a  way  through  a  dense  body  of  timber,  from  which  we 


[IB49. 

donees  of 
ere  some- 
ive  liMted 
fitaiiis)  on 
llesimihig 
h  an  open 
)ine  made 
!ep  ascent, 
y  avoided 
onid  have 
below,  as 
0  encamp 

We  had 
nded  very 
;lo\v;  and 
0  fires  at 
reparation 
izing  logs, 
the  India 

It  was  a 
cep  moun- 
hey  found 
and  bread 

clear ;  and 
a  good  re- 
roiiometric 
scended  to 
iay  on  the 

>lit,  and  at 

le  an  early 
Jense  than 
lies  cinstcr 
ow  foliage 
Ines.  After 

of  several 
irly  conical 
leiglit ;  the 
lies  2 1  feet. 

and  more 
ument  car- 
11  trees  and 
,  long  spur, 

he  summit, 
ntry  where 
le  height  of 

it,  we  were 
which  we 


1843.J 


CAPT.  FREMOXT'.S  NAKKATIVE. 


If)' 


[<  emerged /)n  an  open  monntain  sitle,  where  we  fonnd  a  number  of  snial'. 
springs,  ;md  encamped  after  a  day's  jonniey  of  10  miles.  Our  elevation 
here  was  5,000  feet. 

Octuhi'r  21. — There  was  a  very  heavy  white  frost  during  the  night,  and 
the  thernionieter  at  sunrise  was  30*^. 

We  coniiiuied  to  travel  through  the  forest,  in  which  the  road  was  ren- 
dered diUieiilt  by  fullen  trunks,  and  obstructed  by  many  small  trees,  whioli 
it  was  necessary  to  cut  down.  Uul  these  are  otdy  accidental  (lillieulties. 
which  could  easily  be  removed,  and  a  very  excellent  road  may  be  had 
through  this  pass,  with  no  other  than  very  moderate  ascents  or  declivities. 
A  laborious  day,  which  had  advanced  us  only  six  miles  on  our  road,  brought 
us  in  the  afternoon  to  an  opening  in  the  forest,  in  which  there  was  a  fine 
mountain  meadow,  with  good  grass,  and  a  large  clear-water  stream — one 
of  the  liead  branches  of  the  Uynulildli  x'wgv.  During  this  day's  oumey, 
the  barometer  was  broken;  and  the  elevations  above  the  sea,  hereafter  given, 
depend  upon  the  temperature  of  boiling  water.  Some  of  the  white  spi  iice? 
which  I  measured  to-day  were  twelve  feet  in  circumference,  and  one  of  the 
larches  ten  ;  but  eight  feet  was  the  average  circumference  of  those  i\easured 
along  the  road.  1  held  in  my  hand  a  tape  line  as  I  walked  along,  in  order 
to  form  some  correct  idea  of  the  size  of  the  timber.  Their  lieight  appeared 
to  bo  from  100  to  180,  and  perhaps  200  feet,  and  the  trunks  of  the  larches 
were  sometimes  100  feet  without  a  limb;  but  the  white  spruces  were  gen- 
erally covered  with  branches  nearly  to  the  root.  All  these  trees  have  their 
branches,  particularly  the  lower  ones,  declining. 

October  23. — The  white  frost  this  morning  was  like  snow  on  the  ground  ; 
the  ice  was  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  on  tlie  creek,  and  the  thermometer  at 
sunrise  was  at  20°.  But,  in  a  few  hours,  the  day  became  warm  and  pleas- 
ant, and  our  road  over  the  mountains  was  delightful  and  full  of  enjoyment. 

The  trail  passed  sometimes  through  vciry  thick  young  timber,  in  which 
there  was  much  cutting  to  be  done  ;  but,  after  travelling  a  few  miles,  the 
mountains  became  more  bald,  and  we  reached  a  point  from  which  there 
was  a  very  extensive  view  in  the  northwest.  We  were  here  on  the  western 
verge  of  the  Blue  mountains,  long  s})urs  of  which,  very  precipitous  on  either 
side,  extended  down  into  the  valley,  the  waters  of  the  mountain  roaring  be- 
tween them.  On  our  right  was  a  inou)itain  plateau,  covered  with  a  dense 
forest;  and  to  the  westward,  immediately  below  us,  was  the  great  Nez 
Perce  (pierced  nose)  prairie,  in  which  d  irk  lines  of  timber  indicated  the 
course  of  many  affluents  to  a  considerable  stream  that  was  seen  pursuing 
its  way  across  the  plain  towards  wliat  appeared  to  be  the  Columbia  river. 
This  I  knew  to  be  the  WalahwaUh  river,  and  occasional  spots  along  its 
banks,  which  resembled  clearings,  were  supposed  to  be  the  mission  or  In- 
dian settlements  ;  but  the  weather  was  smoky  and  unfavorable  to  far  views 
with  the  glass.  The  rock  displayed  here  in  the  escarpments  is  a  compact 
amorphous  trap,  which  appears  to  constitute  the  mass  of  the  Blue  moun- 
tains in  this  latitude  ;  and  all  the  region  of  country  through  which  we  have 
travelled  since  leaving  the  Snake  river  has  been  the  seat  of  violent  and 
extensive  igneous  action.  Along  the  Burnt  river  valley,  the  strata  are  evi- 
dently sedimentary  rocks,  altered  by  the  intrusion  of  volcanic  products, 
which  in  some  instances  have  penetrated  and  essentially  changed  their 
original  condition.  Along  our  line  of  route  from  this  point  to  the  Califor- 
nia mountains,  there  seems  but  little  essential  change.  All  our  specimens 
of  sedimentary  rocks  show  them  to  be  much  altered,  and  volcanic  produc- 
tions appear  to  prevail  throughout  the  whole  intervening  distance. 


166 


CAPT.  FREMONT'sJ  NARRATIVE. 


i  > 


Mil'  "■ 


[1849. 

The  road  now  led  along  tlu!  mountaiii  side,  around  heads  of  the.precipi- 
tous  ravines ;  and,  keeping  men  ahead  to  clear  a  road,  wo  passed  alternately 
ihrongh  bodies  of  timber  and  sniiill  ojien  prairies,  and  encamped  in  a  large 
meadow,  in  vi<!W  of  the  great  prairie  below.  ik 

At  sunset  the  thermometer  was  at  40°,  and  the  night  was  very  clear  and 
bright.  Water  was  only  to  be  had  here  by  descending  a  bad  ravitie,  into 
ivhich  we  drove  our  animals,  and  had  much  trouble  wiih  them,  in  a  very  , 
;lose  growth  of  small  pines.  Mr.  I*renss  had  walked  ahead, and  did  not  get 
jilo  camp  this  evening.  The  frees  here  n)ainlained  their  size,  and  one  of  the 
black  spruces  measured  15  feet  in  circnmference.  In  the  neighborhood  of 
the  camp,  pines  have  reappeared  iiere  amonj^r  the  timber. 

October  23. — The  morning  was  very  clear;  there  had  been  a  heavy 
white  frost  during  the  night,  and  at  sunrise  the  thermometer  was  at  31°. 

After  cutting  through  two  thick  bodies  of  timber,  in  which  1  noticed  some 
small  trees  oi  hemlock  spruce,  (/;<^v?/.y.sr,)  the  I'orest  beca)ne  more  open,  and 
•we  had  no  longer  any  trouble  to  clear  a  way.  The  pines  here  were  1 1  or  12 
feet  in  circumference, andabout  1 10  (eet  high,  and  appeared  to  love  llie  open 
grounds.  The  trail  now  led  along  one  of  the  long  spurs  of  the  mountahi, 
descendinggradually  towards  the  plain;  and  after  a  few  miles  travelling,  we 
emerged  finally  from  the  forest,  in  full  view  of  the  plain  below,  and  saw 
the  snowy  mass  of  Mount  Hood,  standing  high  out  above  the  surrounding 
country,  at  the  distance  of  180  miles.  The  road  along  the  ridge  was  ex- 
cellent, and  the  grass  very  green  and  20od;  the  old  grass  having  been  burnt 
olf  early  in  the  autmnn.  About  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  a 
little  bottom  on  the  Walahwalah  river,  where  we  foimd  Mr.  Preuss,  who 
yesterday  had  reached  this  place,  and  found  himself  too  far  in  advance  of 
the  camp  to  return.  The  stream  here  has  just  issued  from  the  narrow  ra- 
vines, which  are  walled  with  precipices,  in  which  the  rock  lias  a  brown 
and  more  burnt  appearance  than  above. 

At  sunset  the  thermometer  was  at  48°;  and  our  position  was  in  longitude 
1 18°  GO'  39'  ,  and  in  latitude  45°  53'  35". 

The  morning  was  clear,  with  a  temperature  at  sunrise  of  24°.  Crossing 
the  river,  we  travelled  over  a  hilly  coutitry  with  good  bunch  grass ;  the 
river  bottom,  which  generally  contains  the  best  soil  in  other  countries,  being 
here  a  sterile  level  of  rock  and  pebbles.  We  had  found  the  soil  in  the  Blue 
mountains  to  be  of  excellent  quality,  and  it  appeared  also  to  be  good  here 
among  the  lower  hills.  Reaching  a  little  eminence,  over  which  the  trail 
passed;  we  had  an  extensive  view  along  the  course  of  the  river,  which  was 
divided  and  spread  over  its  bottom  in  a  network  of  water,  receiving 
several  other  tributaries  from  the  mountains.  There  was  a  band  of  several 
hundred  horses  grazing  on  the  hills  about  two  miles  ahead ;  and  as  we 
advanced  on  the  road  we  met  other  bands,  which  hidians  were  driving  out 
to  pasture  also  on  the  hills.  True  to  its  general  character,  tlie  reverse  of 
other  countries,  the  hills  and  mountains  here  were  rich  in  grass,  the  bottoms 
barren  and  sterile. 

In  six  miles  we  crossed  a  principal  fork,  below  which  the  scattered  water 
of  the  river  was  gathered  info  one  chaimel ;  and,  passing  on  the  way  sev- 
eral unfinished  houses,  and  some  cleared  patches,  where  corn  and  potatoes 
were  cultivated,  we  reached,  in  about  eight  miles  farther,  the  missionary 
establishment  of  Dr.  Whitman,  which  consisted,  at  this  time,  of  one  adobe 
house — i.  e.  built  of  unburnt  bricks,  as  in  Mexico. 

I  found  Dr.  Whitman  absent  on  a  visit  to  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia; 
but  had  the  pleasure  to  see  a  fine-looking  large  family  of  emigrants,  men. 


t-H. 


PHMliP 


[1849*. 

.precipi-     ♦ 
ernately 
1  a  large 


aife 


:loar 
itic,  into 
n  a  very 
d  not  get 
ne  of  llio 
rhood  of 

a  heavy 
n  31'^. 
:ed  some 
pen, and 
11  or  12 
tlie  open 
lountain, 
ling,  we 
and  saw 
onnding 
was  ex- 
en  burnt 
-'ached  a 
iss,  who 
vance  of 
rrow  ra- 
ti brown 


3ngitude 


Crossing 
ass ;  the 
3s,  being 
the  Blue 
)od  here 
the  trail 
lich  was 
eceiving 
f  several 
id  as  we 
ving  out 
iverse  of 
bottoms 

3d  water 
'/ay  sev- 
potatoes 
ssionary 
le  adobe 

lumbia ; 
ts,  men. 


1U43.]  CATT.  FUEMO.NTS  NARRATIVL'.  107 

Women,  and  children,  in  robust  health,  all  indenmifyini'  themselves  for 
I'previons  scanty  fan;,  in  a  litMrty  consumption  o(  potatofs,  which  are  pro- 
duced here  of  a  remarkably  ^nod  (piality.  VV'e  wi-ro  disappointed  in  our 
expectation  of  obtainins?  corn  meal  or  Hour  at  tins  station,  tlie  Utill  belong- 
ing to  the  mission  having  been  lately  burnt  down  ;  but  an  abundant  supply 
of  excellent  potatoes  baiiislied  regrnts,  and  furnished  a  grateful  substitute 
for  broad.  A  small  town  of  Nez  I'erce  Itidians  gave  an  inhabited  and 
even  a  populous  a|)pearance  to  the  station ;  and,  after  remainimr  about  an 
liour,  we  contimied  our  route,  and  encamped  on  the  river  about  four  miles 
below,  passing  on  the  way  an  emigrant  encampment. 

Temperature  at  sunset,  4!/-'. 

Octohcr  25. — The  weatber  was  pleasant,  with  a  sunrise  temperature  of 
3G  .  Our  road  to-day  had  in  it  nothing  of  interest ;  and  the  country  of- 
fered to  the  eye  only  a  sandy,  imdnlating  plain,  through  which  a  scantily 
timb(!red  river  takes  its  course.  W'e  halted  aluint  tbr«^e  miles  above  the 
inoutb,  on  account  of  orass ;  atnl  tl'<'  next  morning  arrived  at  the  Nez  Perce 
fort,  one  of  the  trading  esiablishinents  of  the  Hudson  Hay  Company,  a 
lew  hundred  yards  above  the  junction  of  the  Walahwalah  with  the  Colum- 
bia river.  Hero  we  had  the  first  view  of  this  river,  and  found  it  about 
1,200  yards  wide,  and  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  fine  navigabli;  stream. 
We  made  our  camp  in  a  little  grove  of  willows  on  the  Walahwalah,  which 
are  the  only  trees  to  bo  seen  in  the  neighborhood;  but  were  obliged  to  send 
the  animals  back  to  the  encanipment  we  had  left,  as  there  was  scarcely  a 
blade  of  grass  to  be  found.  The  post  is  on  the  bank  of  the  Columbia,  on 
a  plain  of  bare  sands,  from  which  the  air  was  literally  filled  with  clouds  of 
dust  and  sand,  during  one  of  the  few  days  we  remained  here;  this  place 
being  one  of  the  several  points  on  the  river  which  are  distinguished  for  pre- 
vailing high  winds,  which  come  from  the  sea.  The  apjjearance  of  the  post 
and  country  was  without  interest,  except  that  we  here  saw,  tor  the  first  time, 
the  great  river  on  which  the  course  of  events  for  the  last  half  century  has 
been  directing  attention  and  conferring  historical  fame.  The  river  is,  in- 
deed, a  noble  object,  and  has  here  aituined  its  full  magnitndn.  About  nine 
miles  above,  and  in  sight  from  the  heights  about  the  post,  is  the  junction  of 
the  two  great  forks  which  constitute  the  main  stream — that  on  which  we 
liad  been  travelling  JVom  Fort  Hall,  and  known  bv  the  names  of  Lewis's 
fork,  Shoshonee,  and  Snake  river;  and  the  North  fork,  which  has  retamed 
the  name  of  Columbia,  as  being  the  main  stream. 

We  did  not  go  up  to  the  junction,  being  pressed  for  time ;  but  the  union 
of  two  large  streams,  coming  one  from  the  southeast,and  the  other  from  the 
northeast,  and  meeting  in  what  may  be  treated  as  the  geographical  centre  of 
the  Oregon  valley,  thence  doubling  the  volume  of  water  to  the  ocean,  while 
opening  two  great  lines  of  conmumication  with  the  interior  continent,  con- 
stitutes a  feature  in  the  map  of  the  country  which  cannot  be  overlooked; 
and  it  was  probably  in  reference  to  this  junction  of  waters,  and  these  lines 
of  communication,  that  this  post  was  established.  They  are  important  lines, 
and,  from  the  structure  of  the  country,  must  forever  remain  so — one  of  them 
leading  to  the  South  Pass,  and  to  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi;  the  other 
to  the  pass  at  the  head  of  the  Athabasca  river,  and  to  the  countries  drained 
by  the  waters  of  the  Hudson  Bay.  The  British  fur  companies  now  use 
both  lines;  the  Americans,  in  their  emigration  to  Oregon,  have  begun  to 
follow  the  one  which  leads  towards  the  United  States.     Battcaus  from  tide 


*' ". 


168 


C.M'T.  FREMONT'S  NAHKATIVE. 


[1849. 


wtitcr  uficiHid  lo  llio  jtinelioi),  and  tlieiiru  hiiih  up  the  North  fork,  or  Co. 
Ininhia.  ]^;)iiil  (;onvi:yaiicu  only  is  used  npoti  tho  hue  of  I^uwis'^  fork. 
To  thcj  iMJii'.,'raiits  to  Oregon,  tho  Nez  PiTCi'  is  u  poiiit  of  interest,  as  being, 
lo  those  who  choose  it,  the  lennination  ol  thi'ir  ovcihmd  journey.  Tho  . 
hroad  expanse!  ol  the  riv(>r  here  invites  ihoin  lo  emhark  on  its  bosom;  and 
the  lofty  iic«'s  of  the  forest  liirnish  the  moans  ol  tl<»iug  so.  , 

From  the-  South  Pass  to  this  place  isal)Out  1.000  miles  ;  and  as  it  is  about* 
the  same  distance  from  that  pass  to  the;  Missouri  river  at  the  moiuh  of  the 
Kansas,  ii  may  be  as>uin<ul  tluit  2,000  miles  is  the  )i<re.s.s(iri/  land  travel  in 
crossing  iVoui  tlie  Uuifcid  States  to  the  Pacific  ocoaii  on  this  line.     From  tho 
mouth  of  till!  (Ireat  Platte  it  would  he  about  100  miles  less. 

Mr.  McKiulijy.  the  cimmiuder  of  the  post,  reeeivtvl  us  with  great  civili- 
ty ;  and  both  lo  myself,  and  tho  heads  of  the  (!mi'j;r.u)ts  who  were  there  at 
tho  time,  extended  the  riles  of  hospitality  in  a  comlorlablc  dinner  lo  which 
he  invited  us. 

By  a  meridional  altitude  of  the  sun,  the  only  observation  thai  the  weather 
permitted  us  to  obtain,  the  mouth  of  ihe  VVnlahwalah  river  is  in  latitude 
'16°  03'  4(>  ";  and,  by  tin!  road  we  had  travelled,  t)12  miles  from  Fort  Hull. 
At  the  time  of  our  arrival,  a  considerable  body  of  the  emigrants  under  the 
direction  of  Mr .  Applei2;ate,  a  man  of  considerable  resolution  and  energy,  had 
nearly  coujpleU'd  the  building  of  a  number  of  Mackinaw  boats,  in  which 
they  proposed  tf»  continue  their  further  voyage  ilown  the  Columbia.  I  had 
seen,  in  deseentlin:!;  the  Walaliwalah  river,  a  fine  drove  of  several  hundred 
cattle,  which  they  had  exchanged  for  Californian  cattle,  to  be  received  at 
Vancouver,  and  which  are  considered  a  very  inferior  l>reed.  The  other 
portion  of  the  emigration  had  preferred  to  complete  their  journey  by  land 
along  the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  takini<  their  stock  and  wagons  with  them. 

Having  remlbrced  our  aninmls  witn  eight  Iresh  horses,  hired  from  the 
post,  and  increased  our  stock  of  provisions  with  dried  salmon,  potatoes,  and 
a  little  beef,  wo  resumed  our  journey  down  the  left  bank  of  the  Columbia, 
being  guided  on  our  road  by  an  intelligent  Indian  boy,  whom  I  had  en- 
gaged to  accompany  us  as  far  as  the  Dalles. 

From  an  elevated  point  over  which  the  road  led,  we  obtained  another  far 
view  of  Mount  Hood,  150  miles  distant.  We  obtained  on  the  river  bank  an 
observation  of  the  sun  at  noon,  which  gave  for  the  latitude  45°  58*  08".  The 
country  to-day  was  very  unprepossessing,  and  our  road  bad ;  and  as  we 
toiled  slowly  alouL'  tiirough  deep  loose  sands,  and  over  fragments  of  black 
volcanic  rock,  our  laborious  travelUng  was  strongly  contrasted  with  tho 
rapid  progress  of  Mr.  Applegate's  fleet  of  boats,  which  suddenly  came  glid- 
ing swiftly  down  the  broad  river,  which  here  chanced  to  be  tranquil  and 
smooth.  At  evening  we  encamped  on  the  river  bank,  where  there  was 
very  little  grass,  and  less  timber.  W^e  frequently  met  Indians  on  the  road, 
and  they  were  collected  at  every  favorable  spot  along  the  river. 

October  29. — The  road  continued  along  the  river,  and  in  the  course  of 
the  day  Mount  St.  Helens,  another  snowy  peak  of  the  Cascade  range,  was 
visible.  We  crossed  the  Umiitilah  river  at  a  fall  near  its  mouth.  This 
stream  is  of  the  same  class  as  the  Walahwalah  river,  with  a  bed  of  volcanic 
rock,  in  places  split  into  fissures.  Our  encampment  was  similar  to  that  of 
yesterday;  there  was  very  little  grass,  and  no  wood.  The  Indians  brought 
us  some  pieces  for  sale,  which  were  purchased  to  make  our  fires. 

October  31. — By  observation,  our  camp  is  in  latitude  45°  50'  05",  and 


1643.] 


C/Vrr.   FKKMONT'M  XARTIATIVB. 


16f» 


it  is  about* 

all  of  (Ik- 

travel  in 

From  tlio 

)at  civili- 

there  ni 

to  which 

)  wcathfir 
1  latitude 
''ortllull. 
mder  the 
ergy,ha(l 
ill  which 
ia.  I  had 
hundred 
ceived  at 
"he  other 
>r  by  land 
'ith  them, 
from  the 
itoes,and 
Columbia, 
I  had  en- 

lother  far 
•  bank  an 
D8".  The 
id  as  we 
1  of  black 
with  the 
jime  glid- 
iquil  and 
lere  was 
the  road, 

:ourse  of 
nge,  was 
h.  This 
volcanic 

0  that  of 

1  brought 

35",  and 


longitude  110°  22'  IS".  The  night  has  ho«'n  cold,  and  wc  have  white 
[frost  this  niorniii'jr,  with  a  temperature  at  d;iylii,'lit  (»f  25",  and  at  sunrise  of 

J4°.  The  rarly  morning  was  very  ricar,  and  the  stars  bright  ;  hut,  as 
[usual  sinre  Wf  i\ro  on  tim  ('oliunbiu,  eloiids  formed  inmn  diately  with  the 
[rising  sini.  TIk!  day  conlimied  fini',  tlu^  east  'wing  covered  with  scattered 
[clouds,  but  ihe  west  remaining  clear;  .'-howni','  the  remarkable  cone-like 

peak  of  Mount  Hood  brightly  drawn  against  the  sky.     This  was  in  view 

all  day  in  th«?  southwest,  but  no  other  pcuks  of  the  range  were  visible. 

Our  rond  was  a  bad  one,  of  V(;ry  loose  (l(;e|i  sand.     We  met  on  the  way  a 


party  ol  Indians  umisu.illy  well  dressed,  weariin,'elotlies  of  civilized  texture 
and  form.  'I'hey  ippeared  intelligent,  and,  in  our  slight  intercourse,  im- 
pressed mo  with  ti.e  belief  that  they  possessed  some  aptitude  for  acciuiring 
languages. 

We  continued  to  travel  along  the  rivtir,  the  stream  being  interspersed 
with  many  sand  bars  (it  being  the  season  of  low  water)  and  with  many 
islands,  and  an  apparently  good  navigation.  Sniall  willows  were  the  only 
wood;  rocic  and  sand  the  prominent  geolo;.;ical  feature..  The  rock  of  this 
section  is  a  very  compact  and  tough  basalt,  oceiirring  in  strata  which  have 
the  appearance  of  being  broken  into  fragments,  assuming  the  form  of  co- 
liinmar  hills,  and  appearing  always  in  escarptneiits,  with  the  broken  frag- 
ments strewed  at  the  base  and  over  the  adjoining  roiintry. 

We  made  a  late  encampment  on  the  river,  and  used  to-night  ptirshia 
trident  til  a  for  fire  wood.  Among  the  rocks  which  formed  the  bank,  was 
very  good  green  <?rass.     Latitude  45°  \'\'  'J.'}",  longitude  119°45'  09". 

November  1. — Mount  Hood  is  glowing  in  the  sunlight  this  morning,  and 
the  air  is  pleasant,  with  a  temperature  of  M.S.  We  continued  down  the 
river,  and,  passing  through  a  pretty  green  valley,  bounded  by  high  precipi- 
tous rocks,  encamped  at  the  lower  end. 

On  the  right  shore,  the  banks  of  the  Columbia  are  very  high  and  steep  : 
the  river  is  1,690  leet  broad,  and  dark  blulls  of  rock  give  it  a  picturesque 
appearance. 

November  2. — The  river  here  entered  among  bliilfs,  leaving  no  longer 
room  for  a  road  ;  and  we  accordingly  leli  it,  and  took  a  more  inland  way 
among  the  river  hills ;  on  which  we  Jiad  no  sooner  entered,  than  we  found 
a  great  improvement  in  the  country.  The  sand  had  disappeared,  and  the 
soil  was  good,  and  covered  with  excellent  grass,  although  the  surface  was 
broken  into  hi;.,di  hills,  with  uncommonly  deep  valleys.  At  noon  we  crossed 
John  Day's  river,  a  clear  and  beautiful  stream,  with  a  swift  current  and  a 
bed  of  rolled  stones.  It  is  sunk  in  a  deep  valley,  which  is  characteristic 
of  all  the  streams  in  this  region;  and  the  hill  we  descended  to  reach  it  well 
deserves  the  name  of  mountain.  Some  of  the  emigrants  had  encamped 
on  the  river,  and  others  at  the  summit  of  the  farther  hill,  the  ascent  ot 
which  had  probably  cost  their  wagons  a  day's  labor ;  and  others  again  had 
halted  for  the  night  a  few  miles  beyond,  where  they  had  slept  without 
water.  We  also  encamped  in  a  grassy  hollow  will  nit  water;  but  as  we 
had  been  forewarned  of  this  privation  by  the  guide,  the  animals  had  all 
been  watered  at  the  river,  and  we  had  brought  with  us  a  sufficient  quantity 
for  the  night. 

November  3. — After  two  hours'  ride  through  a  fertile,  hilly  country? 
covered  as  all  the  upland  here  appears  to  be  with  good  green  grass,  we  de- 
scended again  into  the  river  bottom,  along  which  we  resumed  our  sterile 
road,  and  in  about  four  miles  reached  the  ford  of  the  Fall  river,  {Rivii:re 


-^^ 


170 


CAPT.  rREMONrrt  NARKATfVE. 


if- 

Ik 

m 

^'  '■'■Si    ' 


[1843. 

aux  Chutesj)  a  consideral.lu  lril>ulury  to  tin-  I'oluriiliid.  Wo  haci^eard, on 
Teaching  ihe  Nez  l*er(!6  fort,  u  rt;potilioii  oC  (lio  accdiml  in  rexiird  to  the 
uti.sfttled  characlur  of  ihu  Cohitiihui  Indians  at  the  prustint  tiino ;  and  to 
our  hltlf  party  they  had  at  various  |touii.s  nianilestinl  a  not  very  Iriondly 
disposition,  in  several  attcuipts  to  steal  our  horses.  At  thisplaen  I  cxpectinl 
to  find  a  badly  disposed  h:tnd,  who  had  phnidered  a  party  of  14  eniii^raiil 
men  a  few  days  before,  and  taki  n  away  their  horses  ;  and  ;i(;rordnigly  w© 
made  tho  necessary  preparations  for  our  security,  but  happily  met  with  no 
dilhcully. 

The  river  was  hii^li,  divideil  into  s-veral  arms,  with  a  rocky  island  at  its 
ouilnt  into  the  Columbia,  which  at  this  place  it  rivalled  in  size,  and  ap« 
j»arently  deserved  its  highly  <;h  iracterisiiir  name,  which  is  rt'ccived  from 
one  of  its  many  falls  sunnj  luriy  nnles  up  the  river.  It  iMitcred  the  ('olum- 
biu  with  a  roar  of  falU  and  rapids,  and  is  probably  a  favorite  fishing  station 
amoiii,'  the  Indians,  with  whom  buth  banks  of  tlie  river  were  populous; 
bill  they  scarcely  paid  any  attention  to  us.  The  ford  was  vi^ry  ihllicult  at 
this  lime,  and,  had  they  cnti!rt:uiied  any  bad  intentions,  they  were  ollt'ied  a 
good  opporlunily  to  cany  thum  out,  as  I  drove  directly  into  tho  river,  and 
durnig  tlie  crossing  tho  howitzer  was  occasionally  several  feet  luider  water, 
and  a  number  of  tho  iik.'h  appiuired  l(»  be  more  often  b.tlow  ili.in  above. 
Our  giiidcj  was  well  acquainted  with  the  ford,  and  W(!  succeeded  in  getting 
every  thing  safe  over  to  tlu;  left  bank.  Wo  delayed  hero  only  a  short  time 
to  put  the  gun  in  order,  and,  iiscending  a  long  mountain  hill,  left  both 
riv»3rs,  ami  resumed  our  route  a','aiii  am  n!g  the  interior  hills. 

Tho  ro.tr  of  tho  Falls  of  Ihf.  Colnnihia  is  heard  from  the  heights,  where 
we  halted  a  few  moments  to  enjoy  a  hue  view  of  the  river  below.  In  the 
season  of  liigh  water  it  would  be  a  very  interesting  object  to  visit,  in  order 
to  witness  what  is  related  of  the  annual  submerging  ot  tho  fall  under  the 
waters  which  back  up  from  the  '  in  below,  constituting  a  great  natural 
lock  at  this  place.  But  time  had  Imcouk;  an  object  of  serious  consideration  ; 
and  the  Falls,  in  their  j)resciit  state,  had  been  seen  and  described  by  many. 

After  a  day's  journey  of  17  miles,  wo  encamped  among  the  iiills  on  a 
little  clear  stream,  where,  as  usual,  the  Indians  immediately  gathered  round 
lis.  Among  them  was  a  very  old  man,  almost  blind  from  age,  with  long 
and  very  white  hair.  I  happened  of  nty  own  accord  to  give  this  old  man 
a  present  of  tobacco,  and  was  struck  with  the  impression  which  my  lui- 
propiliatcd  notice  made  on  the  Indians,  who  appeared  in  a  remarkable  man- 
ner acquainted  with  the  real  value  of  goods,  and  to  undciistand  the  equiva- 
lents of  trade.  At  evening,  one  of  tiiem  spoke  a  few  words  to  his  people, 
and,  telling  me  that  we  need  eiUertain  no  uneasiness  in  regard  to  our  ani- 
mals, as  none  of  them  would  be  disturbrd,  they  went  all  (luietly  away.  In 
the  morning,  when  they  again  came  to  the  camp,  I  expressed  to  them  the 
gratification  we  felt  at  their  reasonable  conduct,  making  them  a  present  of 
some  large  knives  and  a  few  smaller  articles. 

November  4. — The  road  conlini;ed  among  the  hills,  and,  reaching  an 
eminence,  we  saw  before  us  in  a  little  green  valley,  watered  by  a  clear 
stream,  a  tolerably  large  valley,  through  which  the  trail  j)assed. 

In  comparison  with  the  Indians  of  the  Kocky  moimtains  and  the  great 
eastern  plain,  these  are  disagreeably  dirty  in  their  habits.  Their  huts  were 
crowded  with  half-naked  women  and  children,  and  the  atmosphere  within 
any  thing  but  pleasant  to  persons  who  had  just  been  riding  in  the  fresh 
iiioniiiig  air.     We  were  somewhat  amused  with  the  scanty  dress  of  one 


13.] 


CAPT.  PRKMONT'U  NARRATIVE. 


171 


land  .'It  its 
.  and  ap* 
ivod  from 
le  ('oluni- 
iiig  siatiun 
|)opulou8; 
dillictilt  at 
;  oUt'ied  a 
liver,  and 
del  water, 
111  above, 
ill  getting 
sliort  time 
,  l».'ft  both 

his.  where 

,v.     Ill  the 

it,  in  order 

under  the 

;»t  natural 

.ideration ; 

by  many. 

hills  on  a 

red  round 

with  long 

is  old  man 

h  my  un- 

:able  man- 

le  equiva- 

lis  people^ 

lo  our  ani- 

iway.     In 

them  the 

jiresent  ot" 

aching  an 
jy  a  clear 

the  great 

huts  were 

ere  within 

file  fresh 
iss  of  one 


man,  who,  in  common  with  the  others,  rushed  out  of  iho  UwU  on  our 
rival,  niid  who,  in  default  of  other  coverwig,  used  a  child  for  a  fii;  leaf, 
'i'tiu  road  In  about  half  an  hour  passed  near  an  i>levati>d  point,  from 
hich  we  ovorlook'Kl  the  valley  of  the  ('oluinhia  for  many  miles,  and  saw 
the  distance  several  houses  surroim  led  by  fields,  which  a  chief,  who  had 
:oom|uinied  us  from  the  village,  pointed  out  to  us  as  the  Mf.thodisi  mis- 
oiiary  station. 

ill  a  few  miles  wii  di'sceiided  to  the  river,  whirh  we  reached  ai  onn  of 
>  remarkably  iiileresiing  features,  known  as  tlu;  /ht/ies  i>f  Ihc  Calumhia. 
The  whole  volume  of  the  river  at  tliis  place  jiassed  between  the  walls  of  ft 
lusm,  which  has  the  appearance  of  having  ix.'en  rent  through  the  basaltic 
rata  which  form  the  valley  rock  of  the  region.     At  th<!  narrowest  pl.ace 
c  found  ill'-  bre.idth,  by  measurement,  ^S  yards,  and  the  average  height 
1  the  walls   above   the  water  ii.")  feet ;    forming  a  trough  between  the 
;ack> — whence  the  name,  probably  applied  by  a  Caiiadi.in  voyageur.  The 
iiu.ss  of  water,  ill  ilie  present  low  st;it«.'  of  the  river,  |)us»«ed  swiftly  between, 
,t'Op  and  bl.ack,  and  curled  into  many  small  whirlpools  and  couiilcr  cur- 
rents, but  imbroken  by  loam,  and  so  still  that  scarcely  the  sound  of  a  rippio 
was  heard.     The  rock,  for  a  consiflerable  distance  from  the  river,  was 
xorii  over  a  large  portion  of  its  surface  into  circular  lioli's  iind  well-like 
avilies,  by  the  abrasion  of  the  river,  whicti,  at  the  season  of  high  waters, 
^  spread  out  over  the  adjoining  boiroms. 

hi  the  recent  pa.ssage  through  this  cliasm,  an  unfortunate  event  had  oc- 
curred lo  Mr.  Applea;ate's  parly,  ill  the  loss  of  one  of  their  boats,  which  had 
ueen  carried  under  water  in  the  midst  of  the  Dtilles,  and  two  of  Mr.  Ap- 
I'legate's  children  and  on.!  man  drowned.  This  misfortune  was  attributed 
lily  to  want  of  skill  in  the  steersman,  as  at  this  season  there  is  no  impedi- 
ment to  navigation  ;  although  the  place  is  entirely  impassable  at  high  water, 
when  boats  pass  safely  over  llif  great  falls  above,  in  the  submerged  state 
:ii  which  they  then  find  lliemsdves. 
The  basalt  here  is  precisely  the  same  as  that  which  consiitnles  the  rock 
the  valley  iiighcr  up  the  Columbia,  being  very  compact,  with  a  few 
round  cavities. 

We  passed  rapidly  three  or  four  miles  down  the  level  valley,  and  en- 
camped near  the  mission.  The  character  of  the  forest  growili  here 
changed,  and  we  found  ourselves,  with  pleasure,  again  among  oaks  and 
Mlier  forest  trcjsof  the  east,  to  which  we  had  long  been  strangers;  and  the 
iiospitable  and  kind  reception  with  which  we  were  welcomed  among  our 
f'nmlry  people  at  the  mission  aided  the  momentary  illusion  of  home. 

Two  good-looking  wooden  dwelling  houses,  and  a  large  school  house, 
with  stables,  barn,  and  garden,  and  large  cleared  fields  between  the  houses 
:nd  the  river  bank, on  which  were  scattered  the  wooden  huts  of  an  Indian 
■  illage,  gave  to  the  valley  the  cheerful  and  busy  air  of  civilization,  and  had 
u  our  eyes  an  appearance  of  aljiindant  and  enviable  comfort. 

Our  land  journey  found  here  its  western  termination.  The  delay  in- 
volved in  getting  our  camp  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Columbia,  and  in  open- 
ing a  road  through  the  continuous  forest  to  Vancouver,  rendered  a  journey 
Tiluiig  the  river  impractir.ible ;  and  on  this  side  the  usual  road  across  the 
liiountain  required  strong  and  fresh  animals,  there  being  an  interval  of 
iuee  days  in  which  they  could  obtain  no  food.  I  therefore  wrote  imme- 
diately to  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,diri*cting  him  to  abandon  the  carls  at  the  Walali- 
valah  missionary  station,  and,  as  soon  as  the  necessary  pack  saddles  could 


..•n'«i. 


i^J 


i;j 


TAPT.   riMlMONTs  NAUKAI'IVK 


Lisu 


Ih<  untie,  wliii'li  Ins  jKiriy  riMiuirfd,  iii"ct  iw  it  ili"  Dalles,  trtini  which  poin#| 
I  pniiHiMil  III  ruiiiiiiciiCi]  our  lituacwurd  journey.     The  Uiiy  ulU'r  nur  ,4r* 
nviil  l)inu:<  Sunday,  nu  iMiNUie.sit  c.ouUi   hn  duiio  at  the  ini-iNiou;  luii  un| 
MiMiihiy  Mr.  Perkuis  asMinted  n:e  ni  pHMMiruM  fnuu  the  Indiaux  ii  l.ir^o  ct* 
une,  ui  wlue.h  1  deHl^ned  to  eoni|»lete  our  juurui^y  to  Vuuecuivur,  where  || 
e\|>('i'li!il  u>  ol)t;uu  (hi)  ueeessary  supply  oi   provixiouH  und  Mores  tor  iiurH|||i 
wuitiM' jiuuuey.     Three  ludiaiis,  (ron»  tlio  laiuily  to  wht»m  iho  fftiioe  In. ~ 
loured,  were  eri;airud  10  UMRist  ni  working  Ih nluruiu;  thu  voyage,  and,  vvnli 
them, oui  w,a(*r  party  roiisi.st'd  ol  Mr.  I'leiiNHind  luy-sell,  with  Hernier  anij 
.lar*ol)  l)o(i>ou.     In  (-harK«:  ul  the  parly  wlmh  was  to  runiaui  at  the  DalNs 
I  lel'l  (.arson,  wiih  uiMiruclUMis  to  itcciipy  the  people  in  niakiu::  paek  saddles 
and  rerttliim  then  tipiipa^c.     Thi^  villa;;e  Iroui  whi<'h  wo  wurc  to  take  tlic 
ciiuoe  was  on  the  right  hank  vl'  the  river,  alioui  ten  iuiIom  helow,  at  lite 
nunilli  ol  the   ri.tanens  creek ;  and  wlul>'   .^lr.  I'reusN  procooded  down  tin 
rivor  Willi  the  in»iruiiu'Mto,  in  n  litll<!  <  atiou  padilled  hy  two  Indians,  Mr, 
I'urkiUii  aeionipaiucd  iiie  with  the  remainder  of  the  party  hy  land.     Tli ' 
last  oT  the  emi.;raiits  ha  I  pisl  left  the  Dalles  at  the  lime  of  our  arrival,  tr.iv- 
ellin^  ^on|t'  hy  waior  .Hid  olhtu's  hy  land,  inakiiiu  ark-like  rafts,  on  which 
they  had  «  uiharked  their  families  and  hou.strliold.  with  their  large  wagons 
and  other  furuiluro,  while  their  stork  vvurediivtMi  alon^'  tiu;  shore. 

I'\>r  aliiuii  live  miles  holow  the  Dalles,  the  river  is  narrow,  and  |»roI  alijy 
very  di  ip  ;  hut  iluriiiir  this  distance  it  is  i.oniewhat  open,  with  jjra.ssy  hut- 
toms  (HI  the  left.  lOnturinu;,  then,  auiitii;;  the  lower  mountains  of  the  ''is 
cadu  raii^e,  u  assnmuij  a  gtaiural  character,  and  liii^di  and  ^teup  rocky  hills 
.shut  It  III  on  either  .side,  rismi;  ahrujilly  lu  places  to  tli(!  hei^hl  ol  l,r>()/i 
fuel  ahoV''  the  waiter,  and  irraciually  :i o^piiriu,;/  a  moro  uiouutuinous  char- 
acter as  tin   river  approaches  the  (-ascade.s. 

After  an  hour's  travel,  when  the  sun  was  nearly  down,  we  searched  aloiii,' 
the  shore  lor  a  pit  asant  plac",  and  haltid  to  J<ri|»are  supjier.  We  had  hccii 
well  .supplu  il  hy  our  friends  at  the  niission  with  delicious  salted  salmon, 
which  had  heiiii  taken  at  the  fattest  stasttn  ;  also,  with  potatoes,  hi*(;ad,  fol- 
fee,  and  sugar.  Wo  were  deligliiod  at  a  change  m  our  mode  of  travelluiu' 
and  living.  Tiu'  canoe  sailed  smoothly  ilown  the  river:  at  night  we  en- 
camped u|>on  the  slhU'c,  and  a  plentiful  supply  of  comlbriahle  provisions 
supplied  the  firsi  ol  wants.  We  enjoyed  the  ctuiirast  which  it  presciiledtn 
our  late  iinlsome  niarclnngs,  our  iiiirht  walclhngs,  and  our  freciuoni  priva- 
tion of  food.  NVe  were  a  motley  group,  hut  all  hap|)y:  three  unknown  In- 
dians; Jacoh,  a  colored  man;  Mr.  I'nuss.  a  (iermau  ;  Hernier,  creolc 
French  ;  and  myself. 

Bomg  now  upon  the  ground  explored  hy  the  South  Sea  expedition  under 
Cnptain  Wilkes,  and  having  accomj^lished  the  oiijtxt  of  uniting  my  survey 
Willi  ins.  and  thin  presenting  a  connected  exploration  from  the  Mississippi 
to  the  Pacifu;,  and  the  winter  being  at  haiul,  I  deemed  it  necessary  to  econ- 
omize time  hy  Voyaging  in  the  night,  as  is  customary  here,  to  avoid  the 
high  Winds,  which  rise  with  the  morning, and  decline  with  the  day. 

Accordingly,  after  an  hour's  hall,  we  again  einharked,  and  resumed  our 
pleasant  voyage  down  the  river.  The  wind  rose  to  a  gale  after  several 
hours ;  but  tlu'  moon  was  very  bright,  and  the  wind  was  fair,  and  the  canoe 
glanced  rapidly  down  the  stream,  liie  waves  breaking  into  foam  alongside; 
and  our  niglii  voyage, as  the  wind  bore  us  rapidly  along  between  the  dark 
mountains,  was  wild  and  interesting.  Aboui  midnight  we  put  to  tiic  shore 
oil  u  rocky  beach,  beiiind  which  was  a  dark-looking  pine  forest.    We  buili 


rAl'T.   KKKMONT'H  NAUUAllVK. 


17.1 


which  point 
iiKT  our  uf. 
KHi;  hill  un 
i  ii  l;iri,'«  ct. 
«)r,  whnro  I 
tirt!N  hir  m»r 
u:  <'aii(ii>  h<>. 
;«',  Mini,  Willi 
lit'riiK'r  iiiiij 

It  the  Ditlli', 

Mck  N.iihiU's 
'  Id  take  till' 

•  lilOW,  ill  the 
•(I  (l(t\vil  (In: 

iKiiaiis,  Mr. 

land.  TUr 
irrival,  Irav- 
Is,  on  which 
irK»-  wagons 
ior<'. 

11(1  prol  ihly 
I  j^rassy  hut- 

of  Iho  ''as- 
|»  '•0('|<y  hills 
i^hl  of  l,r)()!i 
uitiuus  char- 

irchnd  aloiii,' 
Vo  had  hccii 
tiled  sahaoii, 
s,  broad,  col- 
oi  t ravel liiii,' 
iiiujiil  wc  en- 
le  provisioii> 
preseiiled  to 
iinoni  priva- 
uiUnown  In- 
ruler,  ereolo 

dition  under 
^  my  survey 
3  Mississi[ii»i 
iary  to  econ- 
to  avoiil  the 

I  day. 

resumed  our 
after  several 
id  the  canoo 

II  alongside; 
i!on  the  dark 
,  to  the  shore 
St.    We  buili 


ip  InrRr  flrf'N  nuioix;  the  rorkN,  wliirli  wrrn  in  liiri»n  ninnnr^t  round  ihoul ; 
liid,  arrani^ini^  our  hlunkcts  on   the  nioMl  MhultiTtMi  pl.ices  w<i  r.ould  liiid, 
iiHHi'd  11  di'livhiliil  niuhl. 

After  an  eiuly  hrrakl'!i«t,aldavli«h*  wrt  rnsinm-d  otw  joiiriM'y.  •'•"  wnnihffr 
in'^  clear  anil  hoaiitiful,  anil  the  river  smooth   ind  still.     On  •  iiIut  niJo 
|tlii<  riioiiniains  ari>  all  plnetiinlMrnl,  rocky,  and  \\\nU.     Wm  Wit**  now  ap- 
Iproachinu  ono  of  tin*  innrkrd  tealtiri!^  of  the  lower  ('olninhi.i.  u  Inre  (he 
riviT  lorins  n  uri«at  cannntr,  with  a  series  of  rapids,  in  ltr<'aKii'  •  ilirf)n,.'h  tho 
riiiL'H  of  niMimtatiis  lo  whieh  Hm'  lolly  p«'aksof  Mount  Ijitod  and  Sr.  lli'InnN 
I'loiiLr,  and  which  nsp  as  u'real  piilari^idNiiow  on  ••ithcr  niiI<' o|  thi-  pti,ssi.^o. 
riie  iiiiiri  hriinch  of  the  Sun'mnfuto  river,  mid  the  Tlntnnthn  isr.iie  in  ra«- 
cides  from  lliis  ranu;e  ;  and  the  Colinnhia.  hrttakin.,'  fhroiiyli  it  in  a  .vticetis- 
Mdii  of  eahcades,  wives  the  idea  of  ea'cadfN  to  the  'v^liolc  raii'/e;  and  lieiic«5 
lilt!  nani<!  of  fhe  (Jas('.m>k  \\  wuk,  whieh  ii  hitars.  and  dislinvnivli'-s  if  from 
i!ie  {'oiiNt  Uaimo  lower  dowe,  In  makiny:a.'4iort  turn  to  the  south,  tlinrivor 
lorms  the  cascades  m  hrcakiimover  a  poirif  of  am^liuuerated  masses  of  rock, 
Iraviim  a  handsoin*'    hay   !<►  the   riyhl,  with  several   rodcy   pine-eovered 
lilaiids,  and  the  nioiinlains  sweep  at  a  diUanee  around  a  ci>ve  wlmre  sovi»ral 
«n)all  stream.s  enter  the  hay.     In  less  ihnii  an  hour  we  halted  on   the  loft 
liink.ahont  live  iniiinles'  walk  ahove  llu'eaKcadcs,  where  ihere  weroMevornl 
Indian  huts,  and  where  our  u'liides   iLiiiilied  it  was  eiistoinarv  to  hire  Indians 
10  avsisl  III  malvinii  l\\('  /ittrftfi^r.     When  travellin.?  with  ;i  hoat  a-  liv'hl  as 
,1  canoe,  wiiich  may  easily  hu  carried  on  the  shmilders  of  the  Irwhans,  thi.s 
IS  much  the  better  side  of  ihe  river  f(»r  the  porlaire,  as  the  :,'roUMd  hero  is 
very  U(tod  and  level.  heii>;f  a  h.ind  .ome    bottom,   whieh    I    remarked    was 
coviired  {(t\  i/uis  n<nr  ulivai/s  lliv  citsc  dlonu;  the  rirer)   \\  iili  n  '.'rowth  of 
areen  i.iid  fresh-lookiiiy;  lmiiss.     Ii  v  as  lom?  before  we  ••oiilil  <<)ine  to  .an  un- 
il(!rstandiim[  willilhe  Indians  ;  hut  at  h.'iiifth,  when  they  had  first  received 
llie  piiei;  o(  their  assislaiice  in  I'ood.s,  they  went  vii^'oroiisly  to  work;  and, 
111  a  shorter  •ime  than  had  bt-en  occupied  in  making  our  arranvennints, 
llie  eanoe,  instrnmenis,  and  bau"/a','e.  were  carried  throiiLdi  (a  distance  of 
about  half  a  mile)  to  the  hank  l)elf>w  ine  main  cascade,  where  wo  o.;ain  em- 
barked, the  water  heiii!^'  white  wiih  foam  ainonu;   ii'.^ly   rocks,  and  boilirii,' 
into  a  thousand  whirlpools.     The  boat  passed  willi  :,'reat  rapidity,  crossing 
and  recrossini,'  in  the  eddies  o(  the  current.     After  passing;  tbroii'.-li  about  2 
miles  of  broken  water,  we  ran  some  wild-lookinq  rajMds,  which  ar(!  called 
the  Lower  Rapids,  bem^  the  h-i  on  ilie  river,  which  below  is  traiMpiiland 
Miiooth — a  broad,  maiiiulicent  stream.     On  a  low  broad  point  on  the  right 
bank  of  tho  rivur,  at  tli<!  lower  end  of  these  rapids,  were  pitched  many 
tents  of  the  emigrants,  who  were  wailing  here  for  their  friends  from  above, 
or  for  boats  and  provisions  wbirli  were  expected  from  VancoiiVf  r.     In  our 
I'assage  down  the  rapi<ls,  I   had   noticed  (heir  camps  along  the  shore,  or 
transporting  their  goods  aitross  tli(!  portage.     This  portage  makes  a  head 
of  navigation,  ascinding  the  river.     It  is  about  two  miles  in  length  ;  an  3 
above,  to  the  Dalles,  is  15  miles  of  smooth  and  good  navigation. 

>V\  glided  on  without  fnrlbor  interruption  between  very  rocky  .and  high 
sleep  mountains,  which  sweep  along  the  river  valley  at  a  lilt!  '  distance, 
covered  with  forests  of  pine,  and  showing  occasionally  Infiy  escarpments  of 
red  rock.  Nearer,  the  shore  it  bordered  by  steep  escarped  hills  and  huge 
vertical  rocks,  from  whieh  the  waters  of  the  mountain  reac!i  tho  river  in  a 
variety  of  beautiful  falls,  sometimes  S'lveral  hundred  I'eet  in  heigiit.  Occa- 
sionally along  the  river  occurred  i)rctly  bottoms,  covered  will)  the  greenest 


wm 


174 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[184jJ 


ii* 


verdure  of  the  spring.  To  a  professional  farmer,  however,  it  docs  not  offi 
many  places  of  sntUcient  extent  to  be  valuable  for  agriculture  ;  and  aft 
passinij  a  few  miles  below  the  Dalles,  I  had  scarcely  seen  a  place  on  the! 
iiouth  shore  where  wagons  could  get  to  the  river,  'iim  beauty  of  th 
scenery  was  heightened  by  the  continnance  of  very  delightful  weather,  re 
seinbling  the  Indian  summer  of  the  Atlantic.  A  few  miles  below  the  cas 
cades  w  j  passed  a  singular  isolated  hill  ;  and  in  the  course  of  the  next  six 
miles  occurred  five  very  pretty  falls  from  the  h«Mghts  on  the  left  bank,  one 
of  them  being  of  a  very  j)ictures([ne  character;  and  towards  sunset  we 
reached  a  remarkable  point  of  rocks,  distinguished,  on  account  of  prevailing' 
high  winds,  and  the  delay  it  frequently  occasions  to  the  canoe  navigation, 
by  the  name  of  Cape  Horn.  It  borders  the  river  in  a  high  wall  of  rock, 
which  conies  boldly  down  into  deep  water  ;  and  in  violent  gales  down  tlip 
river,  and  from  the  opposite  shore,  which  is  the  prevailing  direction  oi 
strong  winds,  the  water  is  dashed  against  it  with  considerable  violence.  I: 
appears  to  form  a  serious  obstacle  to  canoe  travelling ;  and  I  was  informed 
by  Mr.  Perkins,  that  in  a  voyage  up  the  river  he  had  been  detained  two 
weeks  at  this  place,  and  was  finally  obliged  to  return  to  Vancouver. 

The  winds  of  this  region  deserve  a  particular  study.  They  blow  in  cur- 
rents, whicli  show  them  to  be  governed  by  fixed  .aws;  and  it  is  a  problem 
how  far  tney  may  come  from  tiie  mountains,  or  from  the  ocean  through  the 
breaks  in  the  mountains  which  let  out  the  river. 

The  hills  here  had  lost  something  of  their  rocky  appearance,  and  had 
already  begun  to  decline.  As  the  sun  went  down,  we  searched  along  the 
river  lor  an  inviting  spot ;  and,  finding  a  clean  rocky  beach,  where  some 
large  dry  trees  were  lying  on  the  ground,  we  ran  our  boat  i^  the  shore: 
and,  after  another  comfortable  supper,  ploughed  our  way  along  the  river  in 
darkness.  Heavy  clouds  covered  the  sky  this  evening,  and  the  wind  began 
to  sweep  in  gusts  among  the  trees,  as  if  bad  weather  were  coming.  As  we 
advanced,  the  hills  on  both  sides  grew  constantly  lower;  on  the  right,  re- 
treating  from  the  shore,  and  lormingasomewhat  extensive  bottom  of  inter- 
mingled prairie  and  wooded  land.  In  the  course  of  a  few  hours,  and  op- 
posite to  a  small  stream  coming  in  from  the  north,  called  the  7Va  Prairie 
river,  the  highlands  on  the  left  declined  to  the  plains,  and  three  or  four  miles 
beloAV  disappeared  entirely  on  both  sides,  and  the  river  entered  the  low 
country.  The  river  had  gradually  expanded  ;  and  when  we  emerged  from 
the  highlands,  the  opposite  shores  were  so  distant  as  to  appear  indistinct  n; 
the  uncertainty  of  the  light.  About  1 0  o'clock  our  pil  jts  halted,  apparently  t 
coiifer  about  the  course  ;  and, after  a  little  hesitation,  pulled  directly  across 
an  open  expansion  of  the  river,  where  the  waves  were  somewhat  rough  for 
a  canoe,  the  wind  blowing  verv  fresh.  INIuch  to  our  surprise,  a  few  min- 
utes afterwards  we  ran  aground.  Backing  oti"  our  boat,  we  made  repeated 
trials  at  various  places  to  cross  what  appeared  to  be  a  point  of  shifting  sand 
bars,  where  we  had  attempted  to  shorten  tlie  wa  by  a  cut-ott.  Finally,  oiie 
of  our  Indians  got  into  the  water,  and  waded  about  until  he  found  achanne: 
sufficiently  deep,  tiirough  which  we  wound  along  after  him,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  again  entered  the  deep  water  below.  As  we  paddled  rapidly  down 
the  river,  we  heard  the  noise  of  a  saw  mill  at  work  on  the  right  bank ;  and, 
letting  our  boat  tloat  quietly  clown,  we  listejjed  with  pleasure  to  the  unusual 
sounds;  and  before  midnight  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  about  a 
mile  above  Fort  \'ancouver.  Our  fine  dry  weather  had  given  place  to  a 
d..rk  cloudy  night.     At  midnight  it  began  to  rain  ;  and  we  found  ourselves 


[184jMl843.] 


CAPT.   FnEMONTS  NARRATIVE. 


175 


docs  not  offe 
ire  ;  and  aft  . 
X  place  on  thtj 
jeaiUy  of  th 
il  weather,  re 
lelow  the  cas 
f  the  next  six! 
left  bank,  one 
ds  snnset  w^ 
t  of  prcvailin;' 
)o  navigation, 
wall  of  rock, 
lies  down  thf 
I  direction  oi 
e  violence.  I: 
was  informed 
detained  two 
icouver. 
'/  blow  in  cur- 
t  is  a  problem 
.n  through  the 

nee,  and  had 
hed  along  ihu 
,  where  some 
lo  the  shore; 
ig  the  river  111 
le  wind  began 
'iiiing.  As  we 

the  right,  ro- 
>ttom  of  inter- 
onrs,  and  op- 

7\ia  Prainf. 
;  or  four  miles 
tered  the  low 
irnerged  trom 
r  indistinct  ii; 
apparently  tu 
irectly  across 
hat  rough  for 
B,  a  few  miii- 
lade  repeateu| 

shifting  sand  I 

Finally,  01:6 
ind  achanuo: 
and  in  a  fevs- 
rapidly  down 
It  bank ;  and. 
0  the  unusual 
iver,  about  a 
en  place  to  a 
ind  ourselves 


suddenly  in  the  gloomy  and  humid  season,  whifh,  in  the  narrow  region 
lying  between  the  Pacific  and  the  Cascade  niuuntaitis.and  for  a  considerable 
distance  along  the  coast,  supplies  the  ploce  of  winter. 

In  the  morning,  the  first  object  that  attracted  my  attention  was  the  barque 
Columbia,  lying  at  anchor  near  the  landing.  She  was  about  to  start  on  her 
voyage  to  England,  and  was  now  ready  for  sea;  being  detained  only  ill 
waiting  the  arrival  of  the  express  batteaus,  which  descend  the  (Columbia 
and  its  north  fork  with  the  overland  mail  from  Canada  and  Hudson's  hay, 
which  had  been  delayed  beyond  tJKMr  usual  time.  1  inunediately  waited 
Mpon  Dr.  -McLaughlin,  the  executive  olficcr  of  the  Hudson  IJay  Company 
in  ilie  territory  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  who  received  me  with  the 
courtesy  and  hospitality  for  which  he  lias  been  eminently  distinguished, 
and  which  makes  a  forcible  and  delightful  impression  on  a  traveller  from 
the  long  wilderness  from  which  we  had  issued.  I  was  immediately  sup- 
plied by  him  with  the  necessary  stores  and  provifjions  to  refit  and  support 
my  party  in  our  contemplated  winter  journey  to  the  States;  and  also  with 
a  Mackinaw  boat  and  canoes,  manned  with  Canadian  and  Iroquois  voya- 
geurs  and  Indians,  for  their  transportation  to  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia. 
In  addition  to  this  efficient  kindness  in  furnishing  me  with  these  necessary 
supplies,  I  received  from  him  a  warm  and  gratifying  sympathy  in  the  suf- 
fering which  his  great  experie".;^  led  him  toanticipaie  for  us  in  our  home- 
ward journey,  and  a  letter  of  recommendation  and  credit  for  any  officers 
of  the  Hudson  Hay  Comp-iny  into  whose  posts  we  might  be  driven  by 
ancxpccied  misfortune. 

Of  course,  the  future  supplies  for  my  party  were  paid  for,  bills  on  the 
Government  of  the  United  States  being  readily  taken;  but  every  hospitable 
attention  was  extended  to  me,  and  I  accepted  an  invitation  to  take  a  room 
in  the  fort,  'V/nc/  to  make  niyaelf  at  fiome  while  I  staid.'^ 

I  found  many  Auicrican  emigrants  at  the  fort;  others  had  already  crossed 
the  river  into  their  land  of  promise — the  Walahmette  valley.  Others  were 
daily  arriving;  and  all  of  them  had  ';)een  furnished  with  shelter,  so  far  as 
it  could  be  afibrded  by  the  buildings  connected  with  tiie  establishment. 
Necessary  clothing  and  p.'-ovisions  (the  latter  to  be  afterwards  returned  in 
kind  from  the  produce  <i  their  labor)  were  also  fumisheii.  This  friendly 
assistance  was  of  very  c^eat  value  to  the  emit^rants,  whose  fanulies  were 
otherwise  exposed  to  much  suffering  in  the  winter  rains,  which  had  now 
commenced,  at  the  sanrje  time  that  they  were  in  want  of  all  the  connuou 
necessaries  of  life.  Those  who  had  taken  a  water  conveyance  at  the  Nez 
Perce  fort  continued  to  arr.re  safely,  with  no  other  accident  than  has  been 
already  mentioned.  Th*;  paj-ty  which  had  pasised  over  the  Cascade  moun- 
tains were  reported  to  have  lost  a  number  of  their  animals;  and  those  who 
\\?f:  driven  their  stock  down  t'.ie  Columbia  had  brougfit  them  safely  in,  and 
found  for  them  a  r^'ady  and  very  profitable  market,  and  were  already  pro- 
posing to  return  to  the  States  in  the  spring  for  another  supply. 

In  tfie  space  of  two  days  our  preparations  had  been  completed,  and  W2 
were  ready  to  set  out  on  our  return.  It  would  have  been  very  gratifying 
10  have  u^ouc  down  to  the  Pacific, and, solely  in  the  interest  and  in  the  love 
of  geography,  to  have  seen  the  ocean  on  the  western  as  well  as  on  the  east- 
ern side  of  the  continent,  so  as  to  give  a  satisfactory  completeness  to  the 
geographical  picture  which  had  been  formed  in  our  minds;  but  the  rainy 
season  had  now  regularly  set  in,  and  the  air  was  filled  with  fogs  and  rain, 
which  left  jao  beauty  in  any  sceticry,  and  obstructed  observations.     The 


176 


CAPT.   FUIOMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[184«. 


^^.t: 


?;%^' 


object  of  my  instructions  had  been  entirely  fulfilled  in  havini^  connected 
our  recoiuioissance  Willi  llie  surveys  of  Captain  Wilkes;  and  altliouglijt 
would  have  been  a^recal)le  and  satisfactory  to  tcnninato  here  also  our 
ruder  r.stronornical  observations,  I  was  not,  for  such  a  reason,  justified  to 
make  a  delay  in  waitiuir  for  favorable  weather. 

Near  sunset  of  the  ioth,  the  boats  left  the  fort,  and  encanijjed  after 
making  only  a  few  miles.  Oiir  lloldia  consisted  of  a  Mackinaw  barge  and 
three  canoes — one  of  them  that  ui  which  we  had  descended  ilu;  liver;  and 
a  party  in  all  of  20  men.  One  of  the  emigrants,  Mr.  Ihunet,  of  Missouri, 
wlio  had  left  his  family  and  priiperly  at  the  Dalles,  availed  himself  of  the 
oi)|)orti<nity  aflbrded  by  the  ri;turn  of  our  boats  to  brins,'  Ihem  down  to 
Vancouver.  This  gentleman,  as  well  as  the  M(!ssrs.  Apjtlcgate,  and  others 
of  the  emigrants  whom  I  saw,  possessed  intelligence  and  character,  with 
the  moral  and  intellectual  stamina,  as  well  as  the  enterprise,  which  give 
solidity  and  respectability  to  the  foundation  of  colonies. 

Novcffibci'  11. — The  moriiiiiti  was  rainy  and  misty.  We  did  not  move 
with  the  practised  ccilerity  of  my  own  cam));  and  it  was  near  9  o'clock 
when  our  motley  crew  had  fini>lied  their  breakfast  and  were  ready  to  start. 
Once  alloat,  however,  they  worked  steadily  and  well,  and  v/e  advanced  at 
a  good  rate  up  th(^  river;  and  in  the  afternoon  a  breeze  sprung  up,  which 
enabled  us  to  add  a  sail  to  tb.e  oars.  At  evening  wo  encamped  on  a  warm- 
looking  beach,  on  the  right  bank,  at  the  foot  of  the  high  river  hill,  immedi- 
ately at  the  lower  end  of  Cape  iloni.  On  the  opposite  shore  is  said  to  be 
a  singular  hol-j  in  the  mountain,  from  which  the  Indians  believe  comes  the 
wind  producing  these  gabs.  It  is  called  the  Devil's  hole;  and  the  Indians, 
1  was  told,  have  been  resolving  to  send  down  one  of  their  slaves  to  explore 
the  region  below.  At  dark,,  the  wind  shifted  into  its  stormy  (piarter,  gradu- 
ally increasing  to  a  gale  fr«)ni  the  souiliwest;  and  the  sky  beconnng  clear. 
1  obtained  a  good  observation  dI  an  emersion  of  the  first  salcllne;  the  result 
of  which,  being  an  absolute  observation,  I  have  adopted  for  the  longitude 
of  the  place. 

November  12. — '''he  wind  during  the  night  had  uicrensod  to  so  much 
violence,  that  the  broad  river  this  morning  was  angry  and  white  ;  tlu' 
waves  breaking  with  considerable  force  against  this  rocky  wall  of  the  cape. 
Our  old  Iroquois  pilot  was  unwilling  to  risk  ihe  boats  aroun  J  the  point, 
and  I  was  not  dis|)Osed  to  hazard  the  stores  of  our  voyage  for  tiic  delay  of 
a  day.  Further  observations  were  obtained  during  ti:c  day,  giving  for  the 
latitude  of  the  place  -15-^  J3' 09";  and  the  longitude,  obtained  from  the 
satellite, is  12i2'^  6'  lo". 

Novem/icr  13. — W^;  had  a  day  of  disagreeable  and  cold  rain;  and,  late 
in  the  afternoon,  began  to  appr  >ach  the  rapids  of  the  cascades.  There  is 
here  a  high  timbered  island  ou  the  left  shore,  below  which,  in  descending, 
I  had  remarked  in  a  blulf  on  iiio  river  the  extremities  of  trunks  of  trees 
appearing  to  be  imbedded  in  the  rock.  Landing  here  this  afternoon,  i 
found  in  the  lower  part  of  the  escarpment  a  stratum  of  coal  and  forest 
trees,  imbedded  betwer>u  strata  of  altered  clay  containing  (he  remains  ot 
vegetables,  the  leaves  of  wliich  indicate  that  the  plants  were  dicotyledonous. 
Among  these,  the  stems  of  some  of  the  ferns  are  net  mineralized,  but  merely 
cliarred,  retaining  still  tlieir  vegetable  structure  and  substance;  and  in  this 
condition  a  portion  also  of  the  trees  remain.  The  indurated  appearance 
and  compactness  of  the  strat a,  as  well,  perhaps,  as  the  mineralized  condi- 
tion of  the  coal,  are  probably  due  to  igneous  action.     Some  portions  of  the 


CATT.   FHHM0.\T'8  NARRATIVE. 


177 


g  connected 

alt  hough  it 

rire  also  our 

Justified  to 

Lm|)cd  after 
V  barge  and 
L!  rivor;  and 
of  JNIissouri, 
iiself  of  the 
jui  down  to 
!,aiid  others 
iracter,  with 
,  which  give 

id  not  move 
!ar  9  o'clock 
•ady  to  start, 
advanced  at 
•j;  up,  which 
I  oil  a  warm- 
hill,  imnriedi- 
is  said  to  be 
'0  comes  the 
the  Indians, 
}s  to  explore 
artor,  gradu- 
fining  clear, 
u;  the  result 
le  longitude 

I  to  so  much 
white  ;  the 
of  the  cape. 
kJ  the  point, 
tiie  delay  ot 
ving  for  the 
d  from  the 

n ;  and,  late 
s.     There  is 
deiicending, 
ml'-.s  of  trees 
afiernoon,  1 
I  and  forest 
:  remains  oi 
Dtylodonous. 
but  merely 
and  in  this 
appearance 
dized  condi- 
tions of  the 


coal  prccisoly  resemble  in  aspect  the  cannel  coal  of  England,  and,  with  the 
accomi)anying  fossils,  have  been  referred  to  the  tertiary  formation. 

These  strata  appear  to  rest  upon  a  niassof  agiilomerated  rock,  being  but 
a  few  leet  above  the  water  of  the  river;  and  over  them  is  the  escarpment 
of  i)erhaps  eighty  feet,  rising  gradually  m  (he  rear  towards  the  mountains. 
The  wet  and  cold  evening,  and  near  approach  of  night,  [)revented  me  from 
making  any  other  than  a  very  sliiihl  examination. 

The  current  was  now  very  swift,  and  wc  were  obliged  to  cardfile  the 
boat  aloiig  the  left  shore,  where  the  hank  was  covered  with  large  massesof 
rocks.  Night  overtook  us  at  the  upper  end  of  the  island,  a  short  distance 
below  the  cascades,  and  we  halted  on  the  optm  [)oint.  In  the  nieati  time, 
ihe  lighter  canoes,  paddled  altogether  by  Indians,  iiad  passed  ahead,  and 
wer'-  oiu  of  sight.  VVitli  them  was  the  lodge,  which  was  the  only  shelter 
we  had,  with  most  of  the  bedding  and  provisions.  We  shouted,  and  fired 
guns;  but  all  to  no  purpose,  as  it  was  impossible  for  thenj  to  hear  above 
the  roar  of  the  river;  and  we  remained  all  night  without  shelter,  tne  rain 
))Ouring  down  all  the  lime.  The  old  voyageurs  did  not  ap|:)ear  to  ujind  it 
much,  but  coveted  lhemst;lves  up  as  well  as  they  could,  and  lay  down  on 
the  sand  beach,  where  they  remained  quiet  until  morning.  The  rest  of 
us  spent  a  rather  miserable  night;  anil,  to  add  to  our  discomfort,  the  inces- 
sant rain  extinguished  our  fires;  and  we  were  glad  when  at  last  daylight 
appeared,  and  we  again  embarked. 

Crossing  to  the  right  bank,  we  corddkd  the  boat  along  tlie  sh(>re,  there 
being  no  longer  any  use  for  the  paddles,  and  put  into  a  little  t)ay  below  the 
upper  rapids.  Here  we  found  the  lodge  pitched,  and  about  twenty  Indians 
silting  around  a  blazing  fire  within,  making  a  luxurious  breakfast  with 
salmon,  bread,  bulier,  sugar,  coffee,  and  other  provisions.  In  the  forest,  on 
the  edge  of  the  high  bluH"  overlooking  the  river,  is  an  Indian  grave  yard, 
consisting  ui  a  collection  of  tombj,  in  each  of  which  were  the  scattered 
bones  of  many  skidelons.  The  tombs  were  made  of  boards,  whicli  were 
ornamenied  with  many  figures  of  men  and  animals  of  the  natural  size — 
from  their  appearance,  constituting  the  armorial  device  by  which,  among 
Indians,  the  chiefs  are  usually  kno^vn. 

Tiie  masses  of  rock  displayed  along  the  shores  of  the  ravine  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  cascades  are  clearly  volcanic  products.  IJetween  this 
cove,  which  I  called  Grave-yard  bay,  and  anotlier  spot  of  smooth  water 
above,  on  the  right,  called  Luders  bay,  sheltered  ))y  a  jutting  point  of  luige 
rocky  masses  at  the  foot  of  the  cascades,  the  shore  along  the  intervening 
rapids  is  lined  with  precipices  of  distinct  strata  of  red  and  variously  colored 
lavas,  m  inclined  positions. 

The  masses  of  rock  forming  the  point  at  Liiders  bay  consist  of  a  porous 
trap,  or  basalt — a  volcanic  product  of  a  modern  period.  Tlie  rocks  belong 
to  agglomerated  masses,  which  form  the  immediate  ground  of  the  cascades, 
and  have  been  already  mentioned  as  constituting  a  bed  of  cemented  con- 
gloraera'c  rocks  appearing  at  various  places  along  tlie  river.  Here  they 
are  scattered  along  the  shores,  and  through  the  bed  of  the  river,  wearing 
the  character  of  convulsion,  wliich  forms  the  impressive  and  prominent 
feature  of  the  river  at  tins  jilace. 

Wherever  we  came  in  contact  with  the  rocks  of  these  mountains,  we 

found  them  volcanic,  which  is  probably  the  character  of  the  range ;  and 

ai  this  time,  two  of  the  great  snowy  cones^  Mount  Regnier  and  St.  Helens, 

H'ere  in  action.     On  the  23d  of  the  i)recedmg  November,  St,  Helens  had 

12 


tf 


ITS 


(JAPT.   I'I:K\I()M"S  N.\KI{ATIVK. 


[1843. 

scatteiod  its  ashes,  like  u  light  fall  of  snow,  over  the  Dalles  of  tlic  Colntn- 
Ilia,  .'50  milrs  (hstant.  A  specimen  of  these  aslies  was  given  to  me  by  Mr. 
Brewer,  one  of  the  eler^^ymen  at  iIk;  iJ.tlles. 

The  lolly  rani,'e  of  ihc;  Cascade  lununtaitis  forms  a  distinct  honndary  be- 
tween the  opposite  climates  of  the  regions  along  its  western  and  eastern 
bases.  On  the  west,  they  jToscnt  ;i.  harrier  to  the  clonds  of  foir  and  rain 
wliich  roll  np  from  the  I'aeific  (u-ean  and  heat  against  their  rngged  sides, 
forming  the  rainy  season  of  the  winter  in  tl' 
Into  th 


til 


country  along  the  coast, 
iaslern  base,  ih 


tie  brighter  skies  of  llu!  ivpioi\  alo 
Avinter  never  i)enetrales ;  and  at  the  Dalles  of  the  Colnmbia  the  rainy 
season  is  unknown,  the  brief  winter  being  limited  to  a  i)eriod  of  about  two 
months,  during  which  the  earth  is  covered  with  the  slight  snows  of  a 
climate  remarkably  mild  for  so  hitjh  a  latitude.  The  Cascade  range  has 
an  average  (hstance  of  about  130  miles  from  the  sea  coast.  It  extends  far 
both  noith  and  south  ol  the  Coiunibia,  and  is  indicated  to  the  distant  ob- 
server, both  in  coursi'  and  jiosition,  by  the  lofiy  volcanic  peaks  which  rise 
out  of  it,  and  which  are  visible  to  an  immense  distance.'. 

During  several  days  of  constant  rain,  it  kejit  our  whole  force  hiboriously 
employed  in  getting  our  barge  and  riuioes  to  the  upper  end  of  the  cascades. 
The  portage  ground  was  occupied  by  emigrant  families;  their  thin  and  in- 
sufHcient  clothing,  bare-headed  and  bare-footed  children,  attesting  the 
length  of  their  journey,  and  showing  that  they  had.  in  ujany  instances,  set 
out  without  a  due  ))rej);irati()n  of  what  was  indispen->anle. 

A  geiitieinau  named  Lud(;rs,  a  botanist  trom  the  city  of  IIam])urg,  ar- 
«j^  rived  at  the  l)ay  I  have  called  by  his  iKUhe  while  we  were  occupied  in  bring- 

ing up  the  boats.  I  was  delighted  to  meet  at  such  a  place  a  man  of  kindred 
pursuits;  but  weiiad  only  the  j)lei\sure  of  a  brief  conversation,  as  his  canoe, 
under  the  guidancf!  of  two  Indians,  was  about  lo  run  the  raj)ids;  and  I 
could  not  enjoy  the  satisfaction  of  r(!galing  h;m  with  a  breakfast,  which, 
'%  after  his  recent  journey,  would   have  been  an  extraordinary  luxury.     All 

of  liis  few  instrnments  and  bagsznge  were  in  tiie  canoe,  and  he  liiirried 
around  by  land  to  meet  it  at  the  (irave-yard  bay;  but  he  was  scarcely  out 
of  sight,  when,  by  the  carelessness  of  the  Indians,  the  boat  was  drawn  into 
the  midst  of  the  rapids,  and  glanced  down  the  river,  bottom  up,  with  th.>, 
loss  of  every  thing  it  contained.  In  the  iiaturnl  concern  I  felt  for  his  mis- 
fortune, I  gave  to  tlie  little  cove  the  name  of  Liiders  bay. 

November  15. — We  continued  to-day  our  work  at  the  jiortage. 

About  noon,  the  two  barg(!Sof  the  express  from  xMontreal  arrived  at  the 
upper  portage  landing,  which,  for  large  boats,  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
river.  They  were  a  fine-looking  crew,  and  among  them  I  remarked  a  fresh- 
looking  woman  and  her  daugliter,  emigrants  from  Canada.  It  was  satis- 
factory to  see  the  order  and  sp(;ed  with  which  these  experienced  watermen 
effected  the  portage,  and  passed  their  boats  over  the  cascades.  They  had 
arrived  at  noon,  and  in  the  evening  they  expected  to  reach  'V'ancouver. 
These  batteaus  carry  the  express  of  tlie  Hudson  Bay  Company  to  the  higli- 
est  navigable  point  of  the  north  fork  of  the  Columbia,  whence  it  is  carried 
by  an  overland  party  to  lake  Winipec,  where  it  is  divided — part  going  to 
Montreal,  and  part  to  Hudson  bay.  Thus  a  regular  communication  is 
kept  up  between  three  very  remote  points. 

The  Canadian  emigrant  was  nuich  chagrined  at  the  change  of  climate, 
and  inlbrmed  rue  that,  only  a  few  miles  above,  they  had  lelt  a  country  of 
bright  blue  sky  and  a  shining  sun.     Tiie  next  morning  the  upper  parts  of 


[1843. 

le  Colnm- 
le  by  Mr. 

lulury  he- 
ld castorti 
and  rain 
L^cd  sides, 
the  coast, 
this  raitiy 
ilio  rainy 
about  two 
HOWS  of  a 
ranyo  has 
xloiids  far 
hstant  oh- 
a'hich  rise 

aborionsly 
;  cascades, 
liii  and  in- 
ostiiig  the 
;tant:es,  set 


1843.] 


CAIT.   FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


179 


in])urg,  ar- 

d  ill  briiig- 

of  Idiidred 

his  canoe, 

ids;  and  I 

ist,  which, 

vary.     All 

iR  inirried 

ircely  out 

rawn  into 

,  with  th.; 

lor  his  nii.s- 


ved  at  the 
link  of  the 
cd  a  fresh- 
was  satis- 
watcrmeu 
They  had 
ancouver. 


,) 


the  higli- 


l  is  carried    if 
t  aoing  to 
iiicatioii  is 


of  Hi  mate, 
country  of 
er  parts  of 


the  raountains  which  direcily  ovrrlook  the  cascades  were   white  with  the 
freshly  fallen  snow,  while  it  continued  to  rain  steadily  below. 

Late  in  ihe  afternoon  we  finished  the  portai;*:,  and,  tinbarking  again, 
moved  a  little  distance  up  thti  right  l)ank,  in  order  tu  clear  the  smaller  rap- 
ids of  the  cascades,  and  have  a  smooth  river  for  thc!  ne.xt  morning. 
Though  we  maile  but  a  lew  miles,  the  weather  im[)roved  inmiediately ; 
and  tliongh  the  rainy  coinitry  and  the  cloudy  mount  lins  were  clo.se  behind, 
before  us  was  tht;  bright  sky ;  so  distinctly  is  climat(!  here  marked  by  a 
mountain  boundary. 

November  17. —  We  had  to  day  an  opportunity  to  complete  the  skelch 
of  that  portion  of  the  river  down  which  we  liad  come  by  night. 

Many  places  occur  along  the  river,  where  the  slumps,  or  rather  por- 
tions of  the  trunks  of  piiu;  trees,  are  standimr  alom^'  iln;  short,  and  in 
the  water,  wlier«'  they  may  be  seen  at  a  considerable  (lej)tli  below  the 
surface,  in  the  beaulilully  clear  water.  I'liesc  collections  of  dead  trees 
are  called  on  the  Columbia  the  s u Inner !J:;e(l  forest ,\x\\(\  arc-  supposed  to  have 
l)een  created  by  the  eli'ecfs  of  some  convulsion  which  formed  the  cascades, 
and  which,  b.y  dammin:;  up  the  river,  placed  these  tree^^  under  water  and 
destroyed  them,  lint  1  venture  to  presume  thai  I  he-  caseades  are  older 
thanthetrees;  andasthese  submerged  forests  occur  at  fiveorsix  placesalong 
the  river,  I  iiad  an  opportunity  to  satisfy  myself  that  ihey  have  been  formed 
by  immense  land  slide.-,  from  the  mountains,  which  here  closely  shut  in  the 
river,  and  wliicli  broiiLrht  down  with  them  into  the  riv  er  tiie  pines  of  the 
mountain.  At  one  place,  on  the  right  bank,  I  remarked  a  place  where  a 
p(*rtion  of  one  of  these  sillies  seemed  to  have  planted  itself,  with  all  the 
evergreen  foliage,  and  I  he  vegetation  of  the  neiubborinLr  hill,  directly 
amidst  the  I'allinjj:  and  yellow  leaves  of  the  river  trees.  It  ocenrred  to  mo 
that  this  would  have  been  a  beautiful  illustration  to  the  eye  of  a  botanist. 

Following  the  course  of  a  slide,  which  was  very  plainly  marked  along 
the  mountain,  1  found  that  in  the  interior  ])arts  the  trees  were  in  their  usual 
erect  position :  but  at  tlu',  extrj'mity  of  the  slide  they  were  rocked  about, 
and  thrown  into  a  confusion  of  mclinaiions. 

About  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  ]mssed  a  sandy  bar  in  the  river, 
whence  we  had  an  unexpected  view  of  Mount  Hood,  bearing  directly 
south  by  compass. 

Dining  the  day  we  used  oar  and  sail,  and  at  night  had  again  a  delight- 
ful camping  ground,  and  a  dry  place  to  sleep  upon. 

November  IS. — The  d^y  again  was  pleasant  and  ])right.  At  10  o'clock 
we  passed  a  rock  island,  on  the  right  shore  of  the  river,  which  the  Indians 
use  as  a  burial  ground;  and,  halting  for  a  short  time,  about  an  hour  after- 
wards, at  tile  village  of  our  Indian  Iriends,  early  in  the  afternoon  we  ar- 
rived again  at  the  Dalles. 

Carson  had  removed  the  camp  up  the  river  a  liuK;  nearer  to  the  hills, 
where  the  animals  had  belter  grass.  We  found  every  thing  in  good  order, 
and  arrived  just  in  time  to  partake  of  an  excellent  roast  of  California  beef. 
My  friend  Mr.  Gilpin  had  arrived  in  adranco  of  the  parly.  His  object  in 
visiting  this  country  had  been  it)  obtain  c*>rrect  information  of  the  VValah- 
metle  settlements;  and  he  had  reached  this  poim  in  his  journey,  highly 
jileased  with  the  country  over  which  he  had  travelled,  and  with  invigorat- 
ed health.     On  the  Ibllowing  day  he  continued  his  journey,  in  our  return 


w^  boats,  to  Vancouver. 


130 


CAPT.  FKEMONT'rt  NARRATIVB. 


[1843. 


Tlio  camp  was  now  occupied  in  makins?  tlw;  necessary  preparations  for 
our  hotnoward  journey,  wliicli,  tlioui,'h  lioint'wanl.  c<»nt»Mnplated  a  new 
route,  and  a  yreat  circnil  to  tlie  south  and  soiulieast,  and  the  exploration 
of  the  Great  Basin  hetween  the  Rocky  rnonntains  and  the  Sierra  XevaJa. 
'I'hree  principal  t)l»jt'cts  were  indicated,  by  report  or  hy  maps,  as  being  on 
this  route;  the  character  or  cxisience  of  which  I  wished  to  ascertain,  and 
which  I  assumed  as  landmarks,  or  leading?  points,  on  the  projected  hue  o| 
return.  The  first  of  these  points  was  the  Tlumut/i  like,  on  the  table 
land  hetwe<!ii  tlu;  head  of  F'all  riv(*r,  whicdi  com'.'s  to  the  Columbia,  anil 
the  Sacramcnio,  whi'h  tjoes  to  the  bay  of  San  Fr.inrjsco  ;  and  from  whicli 
lake  a  river  ol  the  same  name  makes  its  way  wcstuardly  direct  to  ih.' 
ocean.  This  lake  and  river  arc  often  called  h'/mnr/,  hiu  I  have  chosen  to 
write  its  name  according;  to  the  Indian  pronunciaiioii.  'I'lie  position  o! 
this  lake,  on  the  line  ot  inland  commimication  between  Oregon  and  Cali- 
fornia; its  proximity  to  the  dtimarcation  boimdaiy  of  latitude  U";  its  im- 
puted double  character  of  lake,  or  meadow,  accord mtj  to  the  season  ot 
tlie  year  ;  and  the  hostile  and  warlike  character  attributed  to  the  Indians 
about  it — all  made  it  a  desirable  object  to  visit  and  examine.  From  this 
lake  our  course  was  intended  to  be  about  southeast,  to  a  re[)orted  lake 
called  Mary's,  at  some  days'  journey  in  the  (Jreat  Hasin;  and  thence, still 
on  southeast,  to  the  reputed  Ihioiaventurtt  river,  which  has  had  a  place 
in  so  many  maps,  and  count(;nanced  the  belief  of  liie  existence  of  a  great 
river  tiowins^  trom  the  Kooky  mountains  to  the  b  ly  of  San  Francisco 
From  the  Huenaventura  the  next  (loint  was  inttiiuled  to  be  in  that  section 
of  the  Rocky  momitains  which  includes  the  luvids  of  Arkansas  river,  and 
of  the  opposite  waters  of  ihe  Oalifornian  gulf;  and  thence  down  the  Ar- 
kansas to  Ikni's  fort,  and  home.  'I'liis  was  our  projected  line  of  return — 
a  great  part  of  it  absolutely  new  to  geographical,  botanical,  and  geological 
Ncience — and  the  subject  of  reports  in  relation  to  lakes,  rivers,  deserts,  and 
savages  hardly  above  the  condition  of  mere  wild  animals,  which  inflamed 
desire  to  know  what  this  ttrra  incos^niln  really  contained.  It  was  a  se- 
rious enterprise,  at  the  commencement  of  winter,  to  undertake  the  traverse 
of  such  a  region,  and  with  a  party  consisting  only  of  twenty-five  persons, 
and  they  of  many  nations — American,  French,  German,  (Canadian,  Indian, 
and  colored — and  mo>t  ot  them  young,  several  being  under  twenty-on(' 
years  of  age.  All  knew  that  a  strange  country  was  to  be  explored,  and 
dangers  and  hardships  to  be  encountered  ;  but  no  one  blenched  at  the  pros- 
pect. On  the  contrary,  courage  and  confidence  animated  the  whole  party. 
Cheert'uiness,  readiness,  subordination,  prompt  obedience,  characterized  all , 
nor  did  any  extremity  of  f»eril  and  privation,  to  which  we  were  afterwards 
exposed,  ever  belie,  or  derogate  I'rom,  the  fine  spirit  of  this  brave  and  gen- 
erous commencement.  'I'he  course  of  the  narrative  will  show  at  wlial 
point,  and  for  what  reasons,  we  were  prevented  from  the  complete  execu- 
tion of  this  plan,  after  having  made  considerable  progress  upon  it,  and  how 
we  were  forced  by  desert  plains  and  mountain  ranges,  and  deep  snows,  far 
to  the  south  and  near  lo  the  J'acific  ocean,  and  along  rhe  western  base  of 
tiie  Sierra  Nevada;  where,  iiidtied,  a  new  and  ample  field  of  exploration 
opened  itself  before  us.  For  th{  present,  we  must  follow  the  narrative, 
which  will  first  If.ad  us  south  along  the  valley  ot  Fall  river,  and  the  east- 
ern base  of  the  Cancnde  range,  to  the  Tiamath  lake,  from  which,  or  it.-^ 
luarmn,  three  rivers  g)  in  three  directions — one  west,  to  the  ocean  ;  another 
ttorlh,  to  the  Columbia  ,  the  third  south,  to  (•aliforHia. 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FUKMONT'd  NARRATIVE. 


IvSl 


It  ions  for 
d  u  new 
ploration 

Nevada. 
buiiig  01) 
tain,  and 
d  line  I) I 
\.\\*\  table 
ibici,  anil 
jni  whirl) 
ct  to  ihi' 
cliosen  to 
)sitior)  o! 
and  Cali- 
^  its  im 
season  oi 
R  Indians 
<'rotn  this 
rted  lake 
lence,  still 
d  a  place 
f  a  great 
h'rancisco 
It  section 
river,  and 
1  the  Ar- 

return — 
^'eoiogica! 
serts,  and 

inflamed 
vas  a  se- 
e  traverse 
e  persons, 
in,Itidian, 
venty-onv- 
lored,  and 
t  the  pros- 
jolc  party, 
erized  all , 
ifterwards 
3  and  gen- 
at  what 
etc  execn- 
l,  and  how 
mows,  far 
n  base  of 
xploration 
narrative, 

the  east- 
ich,  or  itr, 
another 


For  the  snpporl  oi'  tho  parly,  I  had  providrd  at  V'anronvcr  a  supply  of 
provisior)s  lor  not  loss  thun  ilirre  month.s,  consislnm  princi[)ally  of  lh)ur, 
pea.s,  and  tallow — ilio  latlor  henig  used  in  cookinu;  und,  in  addition  to  thi.s, 
I  had  purchased  at  ihc  niis.sion  some  ('alifornia  Ciilllc  which  were  to  be 
driven  on  ihe  hool.     VVm  had  lot  mules  and  horses — purl  of  ihc  latter  pro- 


id  fi 


the  Indi 


It 


ission 


lor  il 


<u 


)!' which 


Ironi 
our  reliance  Wiis  upon  the  grass  wliicli  we  shoniu  nmi,  ami  liie  soil  porous 
wood,  which  w;is  to  ho  Us  siihstitnle  when  there  was  none. 

Mr.  Fiizpalrick.  with  Mr.  Talhiyt  and  the  reinaindcr  ofonr  party,  arriv- 
ed on  the  iiisi;  and  the  c;iiiip  was  now  closely  engaged  in  ilu;  labor  of 
preparation.  Mr.  Perkins  succeeded  in  oblaiinnu  as  a  guidti  to  the  TIanmth 
iake  two  Indians — one  ol  whom  had  been  there,  and  bore  the  marks  of 
several  wounds  lie  had  leccivi-d  from  some  of  the  hidians  in  the  neighbor- 
hood ;  and  the  tdlnr  w(.'ni  along  lor  company.  In  order  to  enable  us  to 
obtain  horses,  ho  despatched  messengers  to  Ihe  various  Indian  villages  in 
the  neighborhood,  infornnnij  Ihem  thai  we  were  desirous  to  puicliase,  and 
appointing  a  day  for  them  lo  bring  them  in. 

We  made,  in  the  nieaii  time,  several  excursions  in  ih(!  vicinity.  Mr. 
Perkins  walked  with  Mr.  Preuss  ai.d  myself  to  the  heights,  about  nine  miles 
distant,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  whenee,  in  fine  weather,  an  exten- 
sive view  may  be  had  over  tin?  inounlains,  inclndinir  s.veii  •2Xru{  peaks  of  the 
('ascade  range  ;  luit  floiids,  on  this  occasion,  destroyed  the  aniicijuilc^d  pleas- 
are, and  we  obtained  beaiiiiirs  <inly  lo  three  Ihat  were  visible:  Mount  Ueg- 
nier,  St.  Helens,  and  Mount  Hood.  On  the  heiyhis,  abiuu  one  mile  south 
of  the  mission,  a  very  fin);  view  may  be  had  of  .Mount  Ihuul  and  St,  Helens. 
In  order  to  determint!  their  jiosilions  with  as  iiiiie!i  accuracy  as  possible, 
the  angular  distances  of  the  peaks  were  measuicMl  wiih  t!ie  sextant,  at  dif- 
ferent fixed  points  from  which  they  could  be  seen. 

The  Indians  brouiiht  in  their  horses  at  the  appointed  lime,  and  \vc  suc- 
ceeded in  obtaining  a  iiiiniber  in  exchange  fur  gcuxls  ;  biii  iliey  were  rela- 
tively much  higher  here,  wlieie  goods  are  plenty  and  at  moderate  prices, 
than  wo  had  found  them  in  the  more  eastern  part  ofonr  voyage.  Several 
of  the  Indians  iinpiiied  very  anxiously  to  itnow  if  we  had  any  dollars;  and 
:he  hor.ses  we  procured  were  much  fewer  in  number  than  1  iiad  desired, 
and  of  thin,  inferior  (jiialily  ;  llu;  oldest  arid  poorest  being  those  that  were 
sold  to  us.  These  horses,  as  ever  in  our  journey  you  will  have  occasion  to 
remark,  are  valuable  for  hardihood  and  great  endurance. 

November  )i\. — At  this  place  one  of  Ihe  men  was  discharged  ;  and  at  the 
request  of  Mr.  Perkins,  a  (>liinook  Indian,  ;•  lad  of  niiitiicen,  who  was  ex- 
tremely desirous  to  "see  the  whites,"  and  make  some  acquaintance  with 
our  institutions,  was  received  into  the  party,  und<;r  my  special  charge,  with 
the  understanding  that  I  would  again  return  him  to  his  iViends.  He  had 
ived  lor  some  time  in  the  household  of  Mr.  Perkins,  and  spoke  a  few  words 
uf  the  English  languagf!. 

November  25. — Wl;  were  all  up  early,  in  the  exciteiiieiit  of  turning  to- 
wards home.  The  .stars  were  brilliant,  and  the  morning  cold — tlie  ther- 
mometer at  daylight  20", 

Our  preparations  had  l)een  finally  completed,  and  to-day  we  commenced 
our  journey,  'I'ho  lillle  wagon  wiiich  had  hitherto  carried  the  instruments 
I  judged  il  ncfiessary  to  abandon ;  and  it  was  accordingly  jjresented  to  the 
mission.  In  all  our  lont  liuveiling,  il  had  never  b.en  ovcrtnrned  or  injured 
'  y  any  accidtMil  of  l)ie  road;  and  the  ouly   things  broken  were  the  glass 


l.^J 


l:\VT.   t*l{i:.\H ».%'!'•.'♦  NA    liATIVi: 


[1848. 


% 


liitnp-^,  ;iii<l  Diic  <>r  ihr  iroiii  |)iuii*ls,  wlm-li  li.-nl  Iktii  |<ick(>(l  oiil  by  an  uii- 
nilv  Iiiiliiiii  liorst'.  Til"  liowiizor  wiis  ilic  (Mily  wlirdctl  ••nrriaj^o  \\n\V  ro- 
inuiiiiii:;.  NV<^  .slarlnl  :iIm)iiI  noon,  wlicii  tlm  wiMtlur  had  hecomo  Uin- 
ai^riMahly  (did,  wiili  lliirncs  ot  miow.  Our  (ricnd  Mr.  IN-rkitis,  whose 
Uiiidkoss  ha<l  hiMMi  atlivc  and  tUKKMit  diiiinu  our  slay.  !i<'<'<)Mi|)aiii(>d  us  s<>v- 
oral  iiiiirs  on  our  r«).iil;  wIkmi  Ik^  hade,  us  larrwilLand  rousii^Ht'd  us  (o  the 
cari!  otOur  ^'Uld(^s.  A.s(;i!ndiui{  to  tin*  uplands  hcyoud  tho  southern  Cork  of 
the  7Vi/r//<r/*.v  orccK,  wr  (ound  tln^  sii(»w  lyiiii,' on  tlii*  Lrroinid  in  iVt'cpinii' 
patches,  allhoiiyh  liic  pa.slur(!  appeared  uood,.iiid  llm  new  short  t,'rasH  \va 


trosh  and  ^rcen.  \\  e  (ravelled  over  hiuii,  hilly  land,  and  eiieaiuped  on  .t 
littlu  hratieh  of  rinanuns  crixtk,  wlicru  thurt;  wi-re,  ^ood  grass  and  tiuihei. 
Thu  soudiern  haiiU  was  rovorcMJ  widi  snow,  which  was  scatienid  over  tlir 
bottom  ;  and  the  lillie  creek,  its  l)orders  liiuul  with  lee,  had  a  chilly  and 
wiiUry  look.  A  luiinlier  (•!  Indians  had  accompanied  us  so  far  on  oui 
roud,  and  remained  with  us  during  the  iiivdit.  Two  had  looking  fellows, 
who  Were  d«!tecleil  in  stealing,  w(!rcliod  and  laid  belore  the  (ire,  and  xiianl 
moimled  over  them  iluiin^  llio  night.  The  ni;-»lil  was  cold,  and  partially 
clear. 

Novetnlwr  2{\. — The  morning  was  cloudy  and  misly,  and  but  a  few  star^ 
visible.  DuriUL!;  th(f  nij;lit  water  Iroze  in  tin-  lenis.aud  at  sunrise  tho  thei- 
liiomoter  was  at  JO  '.  I^id't  camp  at  10  o'clock,  the  road  leadini,'  along  tribu- 
taries of  the  'I'iiianeiis,  and  bein::,  so  far,  very  gt»oil.  \\\\  turned  to  tht 
right  at  the  lork  o^  \\\v.  nail,  asceiuhn^  by  a  steep  ascent  along  a  spur  to  tin- 
dividing  grounds  between  this  stream  and  the  wau.*rs  of  Kail  river.  Tin' 
creeks  we  had  passed  were  limbered  principally  with  oiik  and  othor  de- 
ciduous irec^s.  Snow  lies  every  where  la^re  on  the  ground,  and  we  had  ;( 
slight  fall  duriii!,'  the  morning;  but  towards  noon  the  L'ray  sky  yielded  to  a 
brii:ht  sun.  This  morning  we  had  a  grand  view  of  St.  lleUuis  and  Kes:- 
nier :  the  latter  ap|tcared  of  a  conical  form,  and  very  lolly,  leading  thi;  eye 
far  up  uito  the  sky.  The  line  of  the  timbered  country  is  very  distinctly 
marked  here,  the  hare  hills  making  with  it  a  remarkable  contrast.  The 
summit  of  the  ridue  commanded  a  line  view  of  the  Taih  prairie,  and  the 
stream  running  through  it,  which  is  a  tributary  to  the  Kail  river,  the  chasm 
of  which  is  visible  to  the;  right.  A  steep  descent  of  a  mounlam  hill  broughl 
us  down  into  the  valley,  and  we  encamped  (ii  the  stream  after  dark,  guided 
by  the  light  ot  lircs.  wliich  some  naked  Indians  Ixdougmu:  to  a  village  oii 
the  opposit(>  side  were  kindliiur  for  us  on  the  bank.  This  is  a  large  branch 
of  the  Fall  river.  There  was  a  broad  band  of  thick  ice  some  fifteen  fee: 
wide  on  either  bank,  and  the  river  current  is  swift  and  bold.  The  night 
was  cold  and  clear,  and  we  made  our  asirouomioal  observation  this  even- 
ing with  the  thermometer  at  20\ 

In  anticipation  of  coming  liarciship,  and  to  spare  our  horses,  there  was 
much  walkinir  doiu;  to-day  ;  and  Mr.  Kitzpatrick  and  myself  made  the  day'- 
journey  on  loot.  Somewhere  near  the  mouth  of  this  stream  are  tlie  fail> 
from  which  the  river  takes  its  name. 

November  21. — .\  fine  view  of  Mount  Hood  this  morning  :  a  rose-colored 
mass  of  snow,  bearing  S.  S5- VV.  by  compass.  The  sky  is  clear,  and  the 
air  cold;  the  thermometer  2'.5  below  zero;  the  trees  and  bushes  glittering 
white,  and  the  rapid  stream  filled  with  tloaiiug  ice. 

Sfiletsi  and  //ic  ll'fiite  Crarie,  two  Indian  chiefs  who  had  accompanied 
us  thus  far,  took  their  leave,  and  we  resumed  oiu'  journey  at  10  o'clock. 


1843.1 


r\l'T.  I  iniMo.NT'H  .\,\iji<\tim:. 


1«:j 


by  ar>  uii- 

[I'  \\n\v  ro- 

■<'oiii(!  din- 

ins,  whose 

i('(l  IIS  s('V- 

<l  IIS  to  liie 

•Til  fork  of 

II  lV<'i|ii()iii 

i,'r;iss  wu 

ii|)f'(l  on  ;i 

nd  tiinbci. 

il  over  llif 

cliilly  .iiid 

tar  on  om 

11^    fi'llo\V>, 

and  KU.-inl 
d  partially 

a  (vw  stftr> 
St!  tho  tliei  • 
iloni;  tribu- 

IM'd     to    till 

spnr  lo  tin; 
iver.     'riir 
I  other  d»!- 
\V(!  had  ;( 
ielded  to  ;i 
s  and  Hpi;- 
int^  ihi!  cy«.' 
;  distinttly 
last.     Thti 
0,  and  tin; 
.the  chasm 
ill  broiighi 
irl(,u;iiided 
village  oij 
r£?o  branch 
til'teen  loo; 
Tho  night 
this  even- 
there  was 
)  the  day'- 
re  the  fall.> 

ose-colored 
ir,  and  the 
s  glittering 

compaiiied 
0  o'clock. 


We  ns(  cikIimI  by  a  sleep  hill  Trom  ih<'  river  boitoiu,  winch  i.s  .sand/,  to  a 
vole.'Uiif  |ilaiii,  around  whtoh  lolly  hills  swrrp  iii  a  rt't>;iilar  lorin.  It  is  cut 
Up  by  .\Millios  ol"  b.asaliic  rock,  rscarpniiiils  of  which  appear  every  where  m 
the  hills.  This  plain  is  railed  thiiTaih  prairie,  and  is  sprinUled  with  some 
srallercd  pnies.  The  comiiry  is  now  far  ninrr  iiitcrcsimg  t(»  a  travtilier 
(hail  the  loiii.'  aldii'.r  the  Siiakr  and  Columbia  rivers.  Tn  our  n;^lit  w<' 
had  always  the  nioimtaiiis,  fiom  the  mi'Isi  n(  whose  dark  pin*-  fure.sls  ihe 
i.solated  snowy  peaks  were  looking  out  like  giants.  They  served  us  for 
grand  Immciiiis  loshow  the  rale  at  which  we  advanced  inoiir  joiniicy.  Mount 
llood  was  alr<'ady  bef;<)miiig  an  old  UMpMiiitaiicc,  .iiid,  when  wc  ascended 
the  pianie,  we  ohtained  a  bearing  to  Mount  .leirer.H)ii,  S.  j;i '  \V.  The  In- 
dian supersiilioii  has  peopled  these  lofty  pe.-iks  with  evil  sftirits,  and  (hey 
have.  nev('r  yet  known  tli<!  ireail  ol  a  biiin.in  loot.  Sternly  drawn  against 
lh(!  sky,  (hey  look  so  )w^\\  and  sh'cp,  so  snowy  and  rocky,  dial  il  would 
appear  almost  impossd>le  to  climb  ihem  ;  but  siill  a  trial  would  have  its 
attractions  for  the  adve'iiliiroiis  li'aveller.  A  small  .rail  lakes  olf  through 
Ihe  prauie,  ntwards  a  low  point  in  tin!  range,  and  perhaps  there  is  here  a 
pass  into  (lie  W'alahnu;!!''  v.illry.  Cio.Nsing  the  plain,  we  descemjed  hy  a 
rocky  hill  into  iIk;  bed  of  a  Iribulary  of  Fall  riv<;r,  and  made  an  early  eii- 
campmeiii.  The  water  was  in  holes,  an<l  frozen  over,  and  we  were  obliged 
to  cut  through  the  ire  for  the  animals  lo  drink.  An  o.\,  which  was  rather 
lrouble>(Hiie  to  drive,  waskille-d  here  for  food. 

The  eveiiiii','  was  line,  the  sky  being  very  clear,  and  1  obtained  an  im- 
mersion ol"  Ihe  third  satellite,  with  a  good  observation  of  an  (Miiersion  of 
the  first;  the  latter  of  whiidi  giv(!s  lor  tli.!  longitude,  121"  02'  13";  tho 
latitude,  by  observation,  being  t.T  0(i'  I.V.  The  night  was  cold — tho  iher- 
momeler  dining  ihe  observations  standing  at  !' '. 

.\t)vrinl)rr  js  — 'I'lie  sky  was  clear  in  ihe  morning,  but  .suddenly  clouded 
over,  and  at  sunrise  began  to  snow,  with  the  lhermomet(!r  at  IS''. 

\\'(!  traversed  a  broken  high  eouniry,  partly  timbfinul  with  pine,  and 
about  noon  crossed  a  mountainous  ridg(!,  in  which,  from  the  rock  occa- 
sionally displayed,  Ihe  formalion  e(»iis:sis  of  compact  lava.  Fre(iuenl  tracks 
of  elk  were  visiblt;  in  the  .snow.  On  our  right,  in  the  afternoon,  a  high 
plain,  partially  rtivered  with  pine,  extended  about  ten  miles,  to  the  fool  of 
the  ('aacade  Mioimtains. 

At  evening  wi-  encamped  in  a  basin  narrowly  surrounded  by  rocky  lulls, 
after  a  day's  journey  of  21  mill's.  The  surrou'iding  rocks  are  either  vol- 
canic products,  or  highly  altmed  by  volcanic  action,  consisting  of  ipiartz 
and  reddish-colored  siliceous  masses. 

Noretiiher  2)>. — We  (.'merged  from  the  basin,  by  a  narrow  pa.'-^s,  upon  a 
considerable  branch  of  Fall  river,  rumung  to  the  eastward  through  a  nar- 
row valley.  The  trail,  descending  this  stream,  brought  us  to  a  locality  of 
hot  sjjriiigs,  which  were  on  either  bank.  Those  on  the  left,  wiiicli  were 
formed  into  {\ovy>  handsome  basins,  woukl  have  been  deliglitfiil  baths,  if 
the  outer  air  had  not  been  .so  keen,  the  thermometer  in  these  being  ai  89°. 
There  were  others,  on  the  opposite  side,  at  the  fool  of  an  escarpment,  in 
which  the  temperature  of  the  water  was  \'.]-\'\  These  waters  deposited 
around  the  spring  a  brecciated  mass  of  quartz  and  feldspar,  much  of  it  of  a 
reddish  color. 

We  crossed  the  stream  here,  and  ascended  again  to  a  high  plain,  from 
an  elevated  point  of  which  we  obtained  a  view  of  six  of  the  great  peuks — 


'■    4- 


184 


(APT.   FUn.MONT'H  NAIIUVTIVK. 


[1848. 


•  ^ ; 


'it''  ,  i!!'>' 


'K44l 


Mount  Jtili'tirsoii,  follnwt'd  to  lliu  soiilliwiird  hy  two  otiicr.n  of  tlio  .samo  rln«a; 
uiid  .succeed  iiii;,  at  a  still  gruitcr  distuiH  e  to  tlio  southward,  wrrt!  tliruo  oilmr 
lower  [leaUs,  clustcrinii;  lo^elller  iti  a  branch  ridge.  The5i«>,  liku  ilu.'  threat 
peaks,  wore  snowy  masses,  secondary  only  to  llieni ;  nndjioin  lliehest  ex- 
tiininalion  our  linu;  pi'miilted,  w**  arc  inchned  to  believr  ihut  ilie  rruigc  to 
which  tlu;y  belong  is  a  hr.'iiu-Ji  fruni  th(;  ^rcrit  chain  which  here  hears  to 
th(!  weMtw.'ird.  TIk!  trail  during  the  reniauider  of  the  day  followed  near 
♦o  the  larij;u  stream  on  the  li  ff,  winch  was  coininnonsly  wailed  in  holwoeii 
high  rocky  banks.     We  halted  |,tr  the  nii/hl  on  a  little  hy-siream. 

iXovetuher  MO. — Oiu'  jonrney  to  <|;iy  was  short,  I'assin^  over  a  liigh 
plain,  on  which  were  scattered  cedars,  with  rnHjuent  bods  ol' volcanic  rock 
in  lVa;5rnents  inier.sperscrl  ainoiiu'  the  grassy  ^roinids,  we  arrivc-d  snddeidy 
on  the  veri^e  ot"  the  ste(«p  and  rocky  <lescent  to  the  valley  ol'the  .stream  wt; 
had  hecMi  Ibllowing,  and  which  here  ran  directly  across  onr  path,  eintM^ins^ 
from  the  rnoimtains  on  the  right.  Von  will  remark  th;a  the  country  is 
abundantly  watered  with  large  streams,  vHi''*'  pour  down  trom  the  neigh- 
boring range. 

These;  streams  are  charncteri/ed  by  the  narrow  and  clia.';m-like  vallcy.s 
in  which  they  run,  generally  sunk  a  thousand  I'eet  below  the  plain.  At 
the  verge  of  this  plain,  they  Irecinently  connneiice  in  veitical  j)recipices  ot 
basaltic  rock,  and  which  leave  only  casual  place's  at  which  they  can  be 
entered  by  hor.ses.  The  road  across  the  country,  which  would  oiherwii.o  be 
very  good,  is  rendered  impracticable  f»)r  wagons  by  these  .streams.  There 
is  another  trail  among  the  ntomit  lios,  usually  followed  in  the  sntnmer, 
which  the  snows  now  compelled  us  to  avoid;  and  I  have  ivMson  to  believe 
thai  this,  passing  nearer  the  heads  of  these  streams,  would  alforrl  a  much 
better  road. 

At  such  places,  the  gnu  carriage  wa.s  indimbered,and  separately  descend- 
ed by  hand.  ContiiMiing  a  f(!W  niilvs  up  the  left  bank  of  tliu  iivt;r.  we  en- 
camped early  in  an  open  bottom  among  the  pines,  a  short  dislanc(;  l)ulow  a 
lodge  of  Indians.  Here,  along  the  river  the  blull's  present  t:.sc.»rpments 
seven  or  eight  hundred  feet  in  height,  containing  strata  of  a  very  line  porce- 
lain clay,  overlaid,  at  the  lieighf  of  about  five  hundred  feet,  by  a  massive 
.stratum  of  cotnpact  basalt  one  hundred  feet  in  thickness,  which  again  is  suc- 
ceeded above  by  other  strata  of  volcanic  rocks.  Tho  clay  strata  are  variously 
colored,  some  of  tliem  very  nearly  as  white  as  chalk,  and  very  fine  grained. 
Specimens  brought  from  th(;.s(!  have  boon  subjected  to  micro>copical  exami- 
nation by  Profcssior  IJailey,  of  Wt^st  Point,  and  are  considered  by  him  to 
constitute  one  of  the  most  remarkable  deposites  of  llnviatile  infusoria  on 
record.  While  they  abound  in  geimra  and  species  which  arc  common  in 
fresh  water,  but  wliich  rarely  thrive  wiiere  the  water  is  even  brackish,  not 
one  decidedly  marine  form  is  to  be  ("onnd  among  them  ;  and  their  fresh- 
Avater  origin  is  therefore  beyond  a  doubt.  It  is  equally  certain  that  they 
lived  and  died  at  the  situation  where  they  were  found,  as  they  could  scarce- 
ly have  been  transported  by  nnmiiig  waters  without  an  admixlute  of  sandy 
particles;  from  which,  however,  they  are  remarkably  free;.  Fos.sil  infusoria 
of  a  fresh-water  origin  had  been  previously  detected  by  Mr.  liailey  in  speci- 
mens brought  by  Mr.  James  D.  Dana  from  the  tertiary  formation  of  Ore- 
gon. Most  of  the  species  in  those  specimens  difiered  so  much  from  those 
now  living  and  known,  that  lie  vi^as  led  to  infer  that  they  might  belong  to 
extinct  species,  and  considered  them  also  as  affording  proof  of  an  altcrna- 


[1843.    ■  1843.] 


CAPT.  I'liKMONTH  NAUKATIVC. 


165 


^nmoclnsii; 
tliruo  oiliur 
i  tin.'  ureal 
lie  Im.st  (jx- 
<!  rriiii^o  to 
10  ln'ars  to 
i)\v'<.(l  nenr 
ill  hclwucn 
1. 

r(?r  a  liigli 
!c;iiiic  rock 
1  siii|(l(Mily 
.stream  wi; 
I,  onu.'ri^iiii; 
country  is 
l\w  iieij^h- 

ikn  valleys 
plain.  At 
reci pines  ol 
i(!y  can  l)C 
lierwi.se  bi' 
ns.  There 
c  siitniner. 
1  to  believe 
ril  a  much 

y  (le.soeiul- 
i'(!r.  we  eu- 
ice  below  a 
.searpmeiits 

hue  porce- 

a  massive 
^aiu  is  suc- 
e  variously 
lie  ijraiucd. 
ical  nxaini- 

))'  liiui  to 
iltisoria  ou 
;ouuuou  iu 
ackish,  not 
heir  Iresh- 
1  that  tliey 
»ul(i  scarcc- 
le  of  sandy 
infusoria 
ey  in  speci- 
on  of  Ore- 
from  those 
t  belong  to 
an  alterna- 


tion, in  tho  formation  from  which  they  were  obtained,  of  frcMh  and  salt 
water  depositos,  which,  eonunon  enout(h  in  Kurope,  had  not  hitherto  heoii 
noticed  in  thi;  United  .SiatcN,  (>onun^  evidently  from  a  locuhty  entirely 
(linVrent,  onr  specimens  show  very  lew  spticies  in  eouunon  wuh  Ihosn 
brought  by  Mr.  Dana,  but  bear  .i  much  cloNur  re.semblance  to  tliD.se  mhah« 
itiim  the  norlheastern  States.  It  i.s  possible  that  ihey  are  from  a  nioro  re- 
•  >'\i[  deposile;  l)ul  the  presence  of  a  few  remarkable  forms  which  are  com- 
iiion  to  ihe  twu  locahtie^j  renders  it  inoru  probable  that  there  is  no  ^reat 
liffertMicf'  in  their  aye. 

I  obtained  here  a  uoocl  ob.servation  of  an  emersion  of  llu;  second  satellite  ; 
;  lit  clouds,  which  rapidly  overspread  the  8ky,  prevented  the  usual  number 
iif  observations.  Tlio.se  wludi  we  succeedwd  in  oblaiiiiny  an-,  however, 
.ood  ;  and  ^ive  for  the  latiliidi^  of  tho  place  1 1  ;J.V  JA",  and  lor  tli«;  longi- 
.luie  from  the  .satellitti  121  '  lo'  J.V. 

Dcceinhvr  I. — A  short  distance  above  our  encampment,  we  crossed  thi.s 
wver,  which  was  thickly  lined  aloiii^r  jts  banks  with  ice.  In  common  with 
all  these  mountain  stri'ams,  ilir  water  was  very  chiar,  and  ih'*  current  swil>. 
It  was  not  every  where  fordabii-,  ;uid  the  water  was  three  or  lour  I'lcI  deep 
;u  our  crossing,  and  perhaps  a  hundred  feet  wide.  As  was  frecjuetitly  the 
'.asc  at  such  places,  one  of  the  mules  got  his  pack,  consist inv  of  sugar, 
thoroughly  wet,  and  turned  info  molasses.  One  of  the  trnides  informed 
ine  that  this  was  a  •'salmon  water,"  .iud  pointed  out  .'•cveral  iiiLrenioiusly 
'ontrived  places  to  catch  the  lisli ;  among  the  pines  in  the  bottom  I  saw  au 
inmensc  one,  about  twelve  Wx\{  iu  diameter.  A  sleep  ascent  from  the  op- 
l)Osile  bank  delayed  us  again  ;  and  as,  by  the  infornialion  of  onr  guides, 
L'rass  would  soon  become  vi-ry  scarce,  wt;  encanifxid  on  thtt  height  of  land, 
:n  a  marshy  place  among  thi;  pines,  where  there  wao  an  abundance  of 
i/rass.  We  found  here  a  single  Ncz  Perce  family,  who  had  a  very  iiand- 
some  horse  in  tlnnr  drove,  which  we  endeavored  to  obtain  in  cvchangc  for 
a  good  cow ;  but  the  man  ''  had  two  hearts,"  or,  rallu:r,  he  had  one  and  his 
\v'ife  had  another :  she  wanti  il  the  cow,  but  lie  loved  tin-  horsi;  too  much  to 
part  with  it.  These  people  altadi  irreat  value  to  cattle,  with  which  they  are 
endeavoring  to  siip[)ly  ihcmselves. 

December  2. — In  the  first  rays  of  the  sun,  the  mountain  peaks  this  morn- 
ing presented  a  beautiful  appearance,  the  snow  being  entirely  covered  with 
a  hue  of  rosy  gold.  We  travelled  today  over  a  very  stony,  elevalcid  plain, 
about  which  were  scalo>rp<l  ccilar  and  pine,  and  encamjicd  on  another  large 
branch  of  Fall  river.  We  were  gradually  ascending  to  a  mon;  elevated 
region,  which  would  have  been  indicated  by  the  rapidly  increasing  quanti- 
ties of  snow  and  ice,  had  we  not  known  it  by  other  means.  A  mule  which 
was  packed  with  our  cooking  utensils  wandered  olF  among  the  pines  unper- 
ceived,  and  several  men  were  sent  back  to  search  for  it. 

December  3. — Leaving  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  witli  the  i)arty,  I  went  ahead 
with  tlie  howitzer  and  a  few  men,  iu  order  to  gain  lime,  as  our  progress 
with  the  gun  was  necessarily  slower.  The  country  conlinued  the  same — 
very  stony,  with  cedar  and  pine  ;  and  we  rode  on  until  dark',  when  we  en- 
camped on  a  hill  side  covereil  with  snow,  which  we  used  to-night  for 
water,  n-  we  were  unable  to  reach  any  stream. 

Decimbci  1. — Our  animals  had  taken  the  back  track,  although  a  great 
uimbei  wciJ  hobbled;  and  we  were  consequently  delayed  until  noon. 
Shortly  "ifter  we  had   loft  this  encampment,  t!ie  iuountaiii  trail  from  the 


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Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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18(i 


CAPT.   FRKMOXT'S  NAIUJATIVE. 


LIS43. 


fV' 


'u?^ 


Dalles  joined  that  on  which  \vc  were  travellil)l,^  Alter  passing  for  several 
miles  over  ;in  artemisia  plain,  the  trail  ontered  a  beantifiil  pine  forest, 
throngh  which  we  travelled  for  several  honrs ;  and  about  4  o'clock 
descendinl  into  the  valley  of  another  large?  Ijrancli,  on  the  bottom  of  which 
were  spaces  of  open  pines,  with  occasional  meadows  of  good  grass,  in  one 
of  which  we  encamped.  The  stream  is  very  swift  and  deep,  au  J  about  10 
feet  wide,  and  nearly  half  frozen  over.  Among  the  timber  he  e,  are  larcln.'s 
140  feet  high,  and  over  3  feet  in  diameter.  We  had  to-night  tlie  rare  sighi 
of  a  lunar  rainbow. 

December  'j. — To-day  the  country  was  all  pine  forest,  and  heantil'ul 
weather  made  our  journey  delightful.  It  was  too  warm  at  noon  for  winter 
clothes  ;  and  the  snow,  which  lay  every  where  in  patches  through  the  forest, 
was  melting  rapidly.  After  a  few  hours'  ride,  we  came  upon  a  fine  stream 
in  the  midst  of  ihu  forest,  which  proved  to  be  the  principal  branch  of  Fall 
river.  It  was  occasionally  200  feet  wide — sometimes  narrowed  to  50  feel ; 
the  waters  very  clear,  and  Irequeiitly  deep.  Wo  ascended  along  tlic  river, 
which  sometimes  presented  sheets  of  foaming  cascades;  its  banks  occa- 
sionally blackened  with,  masses  of  scoriafed  rock,  and  found  a  good  en- 
campment 0)1  the  verge  of  an  open  bottom,  which  had  been  an  old  camp- 
ing ground  of  the  Cayuse  Indians.  A  great  number  of  doer  horns  were 
lying  about,  indicating  game  in  the  neighborhood.  The  timber  was  uni- 
formly large  ;  some  of  the  pines  measuring  22  feet  in  circumference  at  the 
ground,  and  12  to  13  feet  at  six  feet  above. 

In  all  our  journeying,  we  had  never  travelled  through  a  country  whert: 
the  rivers  were  so  abounding  in  falls,  and  the  name  of  this  stream  is  singu- 
larly characteristic.  At  every  place  where  Ave  come  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  river,  is  heard  the  roaring  of  falls.  Tlie  rock  along  the  banks  of  the 
stream,  and  the  ledge  over  which  it  falls,  isascoriated  basalt,  with  a  bright 
m  !tallic  fracture.  The  stream  goes  over  in  one  clear  pitch,  succeeded  by 
a  foaming  cataract  of  several  hundred  yards.  In  the  little  bottom  above 
the  falls,  a  small  stream  discharges  into  an  entonnoir,  and  disappears  below. 

We  had  made  an  early  encampment,  and  in  the  course  of  the  evening 
Mr.  Fitzpatrick  joined  us  here  with  the  lost  mule.  Our  lodge  poles  were 
nearly  worn  out,  and  we  found  here  a  handsome  set,  leaning  against  one  of 
the  trees,  very  white,  and  cleaidy  scraped.  Had  the  owners  been  here,  we 
would  have  purchased  them ;  but  as  they  wore  not,  we  merely  left  the  old 
ones  in  their  place,  with  a  small  quantity  of  tobacco. 

December'  G. — The  morning  was  frosty  and  clear.  We  continued  up 
the  stream  on  undulating  forest  ground,  over  which  there  was  scattered 
much  fallen  timber.  We  met  here  a  village  of  Nez  Perce  Indians,  who 
appeared  to  be  coming  down  from  the  mountains,  and  had  with  them  fine 
bands  of  horses.  With  them  were  a  few  Snake  Indians  of  the  root-digging 
species.  From  the  forest  we  emerged  into  an  open  valley  ten  or  twelve 
miles  wide,  through  which  the  stream  was  flowing  tranquilly,  upward  of 
two  hundred  feet  broad,  with  occasional  islands,  and  bordered  with  fine 
broad  bottoms.  Crossing  the  river,  which  here  issues  from  a  great  moun- 
tain ridge  on  the  right,  we  continued  up  the  southern  and  smaller  branch, 
over  a  level  country,  consisting  of  fine  meadow  land,  alternating  with  pine 
forests,  and  encamped  on  it  early  in  tiie  evening.  A  warm  sunshine  made 
the  day  pleasant. 

December  7. — To-day  we  had  good  travelling  ground  ;  the  trail  leading 
sometimes  over  rather  saudy  soils  in  the  pine  forest,  and  sometimes  ovei' 


[1S43.  I  1843.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARI.ATIVE. 


is: 


for  several 
iiiu   forest, 

4  o'clock 
1  of  which 
ass,  in  one 
1  about  10 
arc  larches 

rare  sighi 

boantilui 
for  winter 
I  the  forest, 
ine  stream 
ich  of  Fall 
to  50  feet : 
J  tlie  river, 
anks  occa- 
i  good  en- 
old  camp- 
lorns  were 
ir  was  uni- 
ence  at  tlic 

ntry  whert' 
m  is  singu- 
ighborhood 
anks  of  the 
ith  a  bright 
cceeded  by 
ttoin  above 
ears  below, 
he  eveninu 
poles  were 
ainst  one  of 
m  here,  we 
left  the  old 

ntiniied  up 
,s  scattered 
idians,  who 
1  them  fine 
oot-digging 
or  twelve 
upward  of 
1  with  fine 
reat  moun- 
ler  branch. 
g  with  pine 
shine  made 

rail  leading 
Jtimes  ovei- 


meadow  land  along  the  stream.  The  great  beauty  of  the  country  in  summer 
con^tauily  ^U!.rgcsted  itself  to  our  imaciu^itions;  and  even  now  we  found  it 
beautiful,  us  we  rode  along  thesf!  meiulows,  from  half  a  mile  to  twi)  mile.s 
wide.  The  rich  soil  and  excellent  water,  surrounded  by  noble  forests, 
make  a  picture  that  would  delight  the  eye  of  a  farmer. 

I  observed  to-night  an  occultation  of  »;•  Geminoruni ;  which,  although  at 
the  bright  limb  of  the  moon,  appears  to  give  a  V(M'y  good  result,  that  has 
been  adopted  for  the  longitude.  The  occultntioii,  observations  of  satellites, 
and  our  position  deduced  from  daily  surveys  with  the  compass,  agree  re- 
markably well  tosether,  and  mutually  support  and  strengthen  each  other. 
The  latitude  of  the  camp  is  43''  30'  36";  and  longitude,  deduced  from  the 
occultation,  l','l°  3.V  50". 

December  s. — To-day  we  crossed  the  last  branch  of  the  Fall  river,  issu- 
ing, like  all  the  others  we  had  crossed,  in  a  southwesterly  direction  from  the 
mountains.  Our  direction  was  a  little  east  of  south,  the  trail  leading  con- 
staniiy  through  pine  forests.  The  soil  w;is  generally  bare,  consisting,  in 
greater  part,  of  a  yellowish  while  pumice  stone,  jiroducing  varieties  of 
magnificent  pines,  but  not  a  blade  of  grass ;  and  to-night  our  horses  were 
obliged  to  do  without  food,  and  use  snow  for  water.  These  pines  are  re- 
markable for  the  red  color  of  the  bolls  ;  atid  among  them  occurs  a  species, 
of  which  tlie  Indians  had  informed  me  when  leaving  the  Dalles.  The  un- 
usual size  of  the  cone  (16  or  18  inches  lung)  had  attracted  their  attention: 
and  they  pointed  it  out  to  me  among  the  curiosities  of  the  country.  They 
are  more  remarkable  for  their  large  diameter  than  their  height,  which 
usually  averages  only  about  120  feet.  The  leatlets  are  short — only  two  or 
three  inches  long,  and  five  in  a  sheath  ;  the  bark  of  a  red  color. 

December  9. — The  trail  leads  always  through  splendid  pine  forests. 
Crossing  dividing  grounds  by  a  very  fine  road,  we  descended  very  gently 
towards  the  south.  The  weather  was  pleasant,  and  we  halted  late.  The 
soil  was  very  much  like  that  of  yesterday;  and  on  the  surface  of  a  hill, 
near  our  encampment,  were  displayed  beds  of  pumice  stone  ;  but  the  soil 
prod'  ced  no  grass,  and  again  the  animals  fared  badly. 

December  10. — The  country  began  to  improve  ;  and  about  11  o'clock  we 
reached  a  spring  of  cold  water  on  the  edge  of  a  savannah,  or  grassy  mea- 
dow, which  our  guides  informed  us  was  nn  arm  of  the  Tlamath  lake  ;  and 
a  few  miles  further  we  entered  upon  an  extensive  meadow,  or  lake  of  grass, 
surrounded  by  timbered  mountains.  This  was  the  Tlamath  lake.  It  was 
a  picturesque  and  beautiful  spot,  and  rendered  more  attractive  to  us  by  the 
abundant  and  excellent  grass,  which  our  animals,  after  travelling  through 
pine  forests,  so  much  needed;  but  the  broad  sheet  of  Wvater  which  consti- 
tutes a  lake  was  not  to  be  seen.  Overlooking  it,  immediately  west,  were 
several  snowy  knobs,  belonging  to  what  we  have  considered  a  branch  of 
the  Cascade  range.  A  low  point  covered  with  pines  made  out  into  the 
lake,  which  afforded  us  a  good  place  for  an  encampment,  and  for  the  secu- 
rity of  our  horses,  which  were  guarded  in  view  on  the  open  meadow.  The 
character  of  courage  and  hostility  attributed  to  the  Indians  of  this  quarter 
induced  more  than  usual  precaution  ;  and,  seeing  smokes  rising  from  the 
middle  of  the  lake  (or  savannah)  and  along  the  opposite  shores,  I  directed 
the  howitzer  to  be  fired.  It  was  the  first  time  our  guides  had  seen  it  dis- 
charged ;  and  the  bursting  of  the  shell  at  a  distance,  wliich  was  something 
like  the  second  fire  of  the  gun,  amazed  and  bewildered  them  with  delight. 


'-■'K 


m 


i  •  > 


188 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARHATIVK. 


[1843. 


■' 

■  y~<i 

'.  !' 

if  lv| 

, 

'!'■■  r  *I 

..'*''  'S 

a: 

"i^t* 

J 

ti 

II  n 

"^'V 

th 

VP 

k^t 

■m 

»•* 

.P,d\ 

'^■\:. 

:M 

1- 

1 
1  . 

m, 

t 


^i0 


1:>  '.'"K^v 


It  inspired  them  with  triumphant  fceUngs ;  but  on  the  camps  at  a  distance 
the  elfect  was  dilFerent,  for  the  smokes  in  the  lake  and  on  tlie  shores  iiu. 
mediately  disappeared. 

The  point  on  which  wi;  were  encamped  forms,  w'  'i  llu;  opjosite  eastern 
shore,  a  narrow  neck,  conneclins;  the  body  of  the  lake  with  a  deep  cove  or 
bay  which  receives  the  principal  ullhient  stream,  and  over  the  greater  part 
of  which  the  water  (or  ratluu'  iet^)  was  at  this  time  dispersed  in  shallovr 
pools.  Among  tlie  grass,  and  scaaered  over  the  prairie  lake,  appeared  to 
be  similar  marshes.  It  is  simply  a  shallow  basin,  which,  for  a  sliort  period 
at  the  time  of  melting  snows,  is  covered  with  water  from  the  neighboriiii; 
monntains  ;  but  this  probably  soon  rnns  off,  and  leaves  for  the  remainder 
of  the  year  a  green  savainiuli,  through  the  midst  of  which  iIk;  river  Tla- 
math,  which  flows  to  the  ocean,  winds  its  way  to  the  outlet  on  the  south- 
western side. 

December  11. — No  Indians  made  their  appearance,  and  I  determined  to 
pay  them  a  visit.  Accordingly,  the  people  were  gathered  together,  and  we 
rode  out  towards  the  village  in  the  middle  of  the  lake,  which  one  of  our 
guides  had  previously  visited.  It  could  not  be  directly  approached,  as  a 
large  part  of  the  lake  appeared  a  marsh  ;  and  there  were  sheets  of  ice  among 
the  grass,  on  which  our  horses  could  not  keep  their  footing.  We  therefore 
followed  the  guide  for  a  considerable  distance  along  the  forest  ;  and  then 
turned  off  towards  the  village,  which  we  soon  began  to  see  was  a  few  largo 
huts,  on  the  tops  of  which  were  collected  the  Indians.  When  we  had  ar- 
rived within  half  a  mile  of  the  village,  two  persons  were  seen  advancini,^ 
to  meet  us;  and,  to  please  the  fancy  of  our  guides,  we  ranged  ourselves 
into  a  long  line,  riding  abreast,  while  they  galloped  ahead  to  meet  the 
strangers. 

W^e  were  surprised,  on  riding  up,  to  find  one  of  tliem  a  woman,  having 
never  before  known  a  squaw  to  take  any  part  in  the  business  of  war. 
They  were  the  village  chief  and  his  wife,  who,  in  excitement  and  alarm  at 
the  unusual  event  and  appearance,  had  come  out  to  meet  their  fate  together. 
The  chief  was  a  very  prepossessing  Indiau,  with  very  handsome  features, 
and  a  singularly  soft  and  agreeable  voice — so  remarkable  as  to  attract  gen- 
eral notice. 

The  huts  were  grouped  together  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  which,  from 
being  spread  out  in  a  shallow  marsh  at  the  upper  end  of  the  lake,  was  col- 
lected here  into  a  single  stream.  They  were  large  round  huts,  perhaps  20 
feet  in  diameter,  with  rounded  lops,  on  which  was  the  door  by  which  tliey 
descended  into  the  interior.  Within,  they  were  supported  iDy  posts  and 
beams. 

Almost  like  plants,  these  people  seem  to  have  adapted  tliemselves  to  the 
soil,  and  to  be  growing  on  what  the  immediate  locality  afforded.  Their 
only  subsistence  at  this  time  appeared  to  be  a  small  fish,  great  quantities  of 
which,  that  had  been  smoked  and  dried,  were  suspended  on  strings  about 
the  lodge.  Heaps  of  straw  were  lying  around ;  and  their  residence  in  the 
midst  of  grass  and  rushes  had  taught  them  a  peculiar  skill  in  converting 
this  material  to  useful  purposes.  Tlieir  shoes  were  made  of  straw  or  grass, 
which  seemed  well  adapted  for  a  snowy  country  ;  and  the  women  wore  on 
their  head  a  closely  woven  basket,  which  made  a  very  good  cap.  Among 
other  things,  were  parti-colored  mats  about  four  feet  square,  which  we  pur- 
chased to  lay  on  the  snow  under  our  blankets,  and  to  use  for  table  cloths. 

Numbers  of  singular-looking  dogs,  resembling  wolves,  were  sitting  on 


[1843.  ■l843.] 


(^Al'T.   FHEMONTVS  NAKKA'I'IVK. 


isn 


t  a  distance 
shores  iiu. 

)site  eastern 
eep  cove  or 
greater  part 
in  sliallow 
ippeared  to 
<hort  period 
iieigljboring 
I  remainder 
<;  river  Tla- 
1  (he  soutli- 

Uermined  to 

her,  and  we 

one  of  owr 

laclied,  as  a 

)f  ice  among 

^e  therefore 

;  and  then 

a  few  large 

I  we  had  ar- 

[1  advancing 

3d  ourselves 

to  meet  tlie 

nan,  having 
less  of  war. 
md  alarm  at 
ate  together, 
me  features, 
attract  gen- 

which,  from 
ke,  was  col- 
,  perhaps  20 
which  tliey 
y  posts  and 

selves  to  the 
ded.  Their 
quantities  of 
itrings  about 
dence  in  the 
1  converting 
raw  or  grass, 
len  wore  on 
ap.  Among 
liich  we  pur- 
table  cloths, 
re  sittuig  on 


(he  tops  of  the  huts  ;  and  of  these  we  purclirised  a  young  one,  which,  after 
its  birthplace,  was  named  Tlamath.  The  language  sjjoken  by  these  In- 
[dians  is  dillcrent  from  that  of  the  Shoshniieu  and  Columbia  river  bribes  ; 
and  otherwi'^t^  than  by  signs  they  cannot  understand  each  other.  They 
made  us  compreliend  that  they  were  at  war  with  the  people  who  lived  to 
the  southward  a..d  to  the  eastward;  but  I  could  obtain  from  thern  no  cer- 
taiii  information.  'I'he  river  on  which  they  live  enters  the  Cascade  HiOim- 
lains  on  the  western  side  of  the  lake,  and  breaks  through  them  by  a  pas- 
sage impracticable  for  travellers ;  but  over  the  mountains,  to  the  northward, 
are  passes  which  present  no  other  obstacle  than  in  the  almost  impenetrable 
iorests.  Unlike  any  Indians  we  had  previously  seen,  these  wore  shells  in 
their  noses.  We  returned  to  our  camp,  after  remaining  here  an  hour  or 
two,  accompanied  by  a  number  of  Indians. 

In  order  to  recruit  a  little  the  strength  of  our  animals,  and  obtain  some 
acquaintance  with  the  locality,  we  remained  here  for  the  remainder  of  the 
day.  By  observation,  the  latitude  of  the  camp  was  42^  56'  51";  and  the 
diameter  of  the  lake,  or  meadow,  as  has  been  intimated,  about  20  miles. 
It  is  a  picturcs([ue  and  beautiful  spot;  and,  under  the  hand  of  cultivation, 
might  become  a  little  paradise.  Game  is  found  in  the  forest;  timbered  atid 
snowy  mountains  skirt  it,  and  fertility  characterizes  it.  Situated  near  the 
heads  of  three  rivers,  and  on  the  line  of  inland  communication  with  Cali- 
fornia, and  near  to  Indians  noted  for  treachery,  it  will  naturally,  in  the  pro- 
gress of  the  settlement  of  Oregon,  become  a  point  for  military  occupation 
and  settlement. 

From  Tlamath  lake,  the  further  continuation  of  our  voyage  assumed  a 
character  of  discovery  and  exploration,  which,  from  the  Indians  here,  we 
could  obtain  no  information  to  direct,  and  where  the  imaginary  maps  of  the 
country,  instead  of  assisting,  exposed  us  to  suffering  and  defeat.  In  our 
journey  across  the  desert,  Mary's  lake,  and  the  famous  Buenaventura  river, 
were  two  points  on  which  I  rehed  to  recruit  the  animals,  and  repose  the 
party.  Forming,  agreeably  to  the  best  maps  in  my  possession,  a  connected 
water  line  from  the  Rocky  mountahis  to  the  Paciric  ocean,  I  felt  no  other 
anxiety  tlian  to  pass  safely  across  the  intervening  desert  to  the  banks  of  the 
Buenaventura,  where,  in  the  softer  climate  of  a  more  southern  latitude, 
our  horses  might  find  grass  to  sustain  them,  and  ourselves  bo  sheltered 
from  the  rigors  of  winter  and  from  the  inhospitable  desert.  The  guides 
who  had  conducted  us  thus  far  on  our  journey  were  about  to  return  ;  and 
I  endeavored  in  vain  to  obtain  others  to  lead  us,  even  for  a  few  days,  in 
the  direction  (east)  which  we  wished  to  go.  The  chief  to  whom  I  applied 
alleged  the  want  of  horses,  and  the  snow  on  the  mountains  across  which 
our  course  would  carry  us,  and  the  sickness  of  his  family,  as  reasons  for 
refusing  to  go  with  us. 

December  12. — Tiiis  morning  the  camp  was  thronged  with  Tlamath 
Indians  from  the  southeastern  shore  of  the  lake;  but,  knowing  the  treach- 
erous disposition  which  is  a  remarkable  characteristic  of  the  Indians  south 
of  the  Columbia,  the  camp  was  kept  constantly  on  its  guard.  I  was  not 
unmindful  of  the  disasters  which  Smith  and  other  travellers  had  met  with 
in  thio  coantry,  and  therefore  was  equally  vigilant  in  guarding  against 
treachery  and  violence. 

According  to  the  best  information  I  had  been  able  to  obtain  from  the  In- 
dians, in  a  few  days'  traveUing  we  should  reach  another  large  water,  prob- 
ably a  lake,  which  they  indicated  exactly  in  the  course  we  were  about  to 


''i 


■;i«! 


190 


CAIT.   I' KK. MO  NT'S  NAHKATIVR. 


[1843. 

pursue.  \Vc  struck  our  tents  at  10  o'clock,  and  crossed  tliu  Inkc  in  a  nearly 
east  direction,  where  it  lias  the  least  extension — llu;  hriuuhh  oC  the  arm 
being  here  only  about  a  mile  and  a  hull'.  There  weri!  ponds  ol  ice,  with 
but  lillle  grass,  for  the  grcMter  |»ait  of  the  way  ;  and  it  was  (li(li(;ull  to  got 
the  pack  annnals  across,  which  lell  frequently,  and  could  not  get  up  with 
their  loads,  unassisted.  The  morning  was  very  inip!easanl,suow  falling  at 
intervals  in  large  ilalccs,  and  the  sky  dark.  In  about  two  hours  we  sue- 
ceedod  in  getting  the  animals  over ;  and,  after  travelling  another  hour  along 
the  eastern  slicirc  of  the  lake,  v/e  turned  up  iiUo  a  cove  wliere  there  was  n 
sheltered  placci  among  the  limber,  with  good  grass,  and  encamped.  The 
Indians,  who  had  accompanieil  us  so  far,  returned  t/>  their  village  on  tlie 
sojUheastern  siiore.  Among  the  pines  liere,  I  noticed  some  live  or  six 
feet  ill  diameter. 

JJecem her  IS. — The  night  has  been  cold;  the  peaks  around  the  lake 
gleam  out  brightly  in  the  morning  sun,  and  the  therniomel\ir  is  ai  zero. 
We  continued  up  the  hollow  lormed  by  a  small  aliluont  to  the  lak',  and 
immediately  entered  an  o[)en  pine  forest  on  the  mountain.  The  way  hero 
M'-s  sometimes  obstructed  by  fallen  trees,  and  the  snov/  was  four  to  twelve 
iuclies  deep.  The  mules  at  the  gun  pulled  lieavily,  and  walking  was  a 
little  laborious.  In  tlic  miu?<t  of  the  wood,  we  heard  ihe  sound  of  galloping 
horses,  and  were  f.greeably  surprised  by  the  unexpected  arrival  of  our 
Tlamath  chief,  with  several  Indians.  lie  seemed  to  have  lound  his  con- 
duct inhospitable  in  letting  the  .siiangfrs  depart  without  a  guide  through  the 
snow,  and  had  come,  with  a  few  others,  to  pilot  us  a  day  or  two  on  tlie  way. 
Alter  travelling  in  an  easterly  direction  through  the  forest  lor  about  four 
hours,  we  reached  a  considerable  stream,  with  a  border  of  good  grass  ;  and 
here,  by  tlie  advice  of  our  guide's,  we  encamped.  It  if,  about  thirty  feet 
wide,  and  two  to  lour  feet  dt'.ep;  the  water  clear,  with  some  curre'it;  and, 
according  to  the  iulormation  of  our  Indians,  is  the  princijial  ailhient  to  the 
lake,  and  the  liead  water  of  the  Tlamath  river. 

A  very  clear  sky  enabled  mc  to  obtain  here  to-night  good  o'dscrvations, 
including  an  emersion  of  the  first  satellite  of  .lupiter,  which  give  lor  the  lon- 
gitude 121°  20'  42",  and  for  the  latitude  42°  51'  26".  This  emersion  coin- 
cides remarkably  well  with  the  result  obtained  from  an  occultation  at  the 
encampment  of  December  7tli  to  8th,  1843  ;  from  which  place,  the  line  of  oiu' 
survey  gives  an  easting  of  thirteen  miles.  The  day's  journey  was  12  miles. 

IJecember  14. — Our  road  was  over  a  broad  mountain,  and  we  rode  seven 
hours  in  a  thick  sno\v  storm,  always  through  pine  forests,  when  we  came 
down  upou  the  liead  waters  of  another  stream,  on  which  there  was  grass. 
Tiie  snow  lay  deep  on  the  ground,  and  only  the  liigh  swamp  grass  appeared 
above.  The  Indians  were  thinly  clad,  and  I  had  remarked  during  the  day 
that  they  suffered  from  the  cold.  This  evening  they  told  me  that  the  snow 
was  getting  too  deep  on  the  mountain,  and  1  could  not  induce  them  to  go 
any  farther.  The  stream  we  had  struck  issued  from  the  mountain  iu  an 
easterly  direction,  turning  to  the  southward  a  short  distance  below  ;  and, 
drawing  its  course  upon  the  ground,  they  made  us  comprehend  that  it  pur- 
sued its  way  for  a  long  distance  in  that  direction,  uniting  with  many  other 
streams,  and  gradually  becoming  a  great  river.  Without  the  subsequent 
information,  which  confirmed  the  opinion,  we  became  immediately  satisfied 
that  this,  water  formed  the  principal  stream  of  the  Sact^amen/ohvev  ;  and, 
consequently,  that  this  main  affluent  of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco  had  its 
source  within  the  limits  of  the  United  States,  and  opposite  a  tributary  to  the 


[1843. 

in  a  nearly 
o(  the  nrm 
r  ice,  with 
iculi  10  gel 
\v.i  iij)  Willi 
^v  falliuy  al 
us  we  sue- 
hour  along 
lioie  was  a 
iped.  Tilt' 
l;ige  on  thci 
live  or  six 

d  iho  lako 
•  is  at  zero, 
ic  lak^,  and 
c  way  hero 
ir  10  twelve 
iking  was  a 
[)!'  galloping 
ival  of  our 
ind  his  con- 
lluoiigh  the 
on  the  way. 
:  about  four 
I  ij,iiiss  ;  and 
It  tliirty  feet 
u're'ii;  and, 
laeut  to  the 

hscrvations, 

lor  the  ion- 
ersion  coin- 
ation  at  tlie 
le  line  of  our 
as  12  miles. 

rode  seven 
in  we  came 

was  grass. 
bs  appeared 
•jng  the  day 
at  the  snow 

them  to  go 
uitain  in  an 
eiow  ;  and, 

that  it  pur- 
many  other 

subsequent 
ely  satisfied 

river ;  and, 
Cisco  had  its 
utary  to  the 


.1843.] 


CAIT.  I'KKMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


101 


Columhia,  and  near  tliL'  lumd  of  the  Tlaniath  river,  which  goes  to  the  ocean 
north  of  12",  and  within  tiie  United  States. 

December  15. — A  picstiit, consisting  of  useful  goods,. 'Ulorded  nuich  snlis- 
faction  to  our  guides  ;  aiul, showing  iheiu  the  national  llag,  1  explained  that 
it  was  a  symbol  of  oiu-  nation  ;  and  they  engaged  always  to  receive  it  in  a 
friendly  niamier.  The  chief  pointed  out  a  course,  by  following  which  wc 
would  arrive  at  the  big  walt'r,  where  no  more  snow  was  lo  bu  found.  Trav- 
elling in  a  direction  N.  (iO"^  \L  by  compass,  wiiich  the  Indians  informed  mo 
would  avoid  a  bad  mountain  to  the  right,  we  crossed  the  Sacramento  where  it 
iiirned  lo  the  southward,  and  eiit<Med  v.  grassy  level  plain — a  smaller  Grand 
Kond  ;  from  the  lower  end  of  U'hicii  the  river  issued  mto  an  inviting  country 
of  low  rolling  hills.  Crossing  a  hard-frozen  swamp  on  the  I'artlier  side  of 
ilie  Kond,  we  entered  again  the  pine  forest,  in  which  very  deep  snow  made 
our  travelling  slow  and  laborious.  We  were  slowly  but  gradually  ascend- 
ing a  mountain  ;  and,  after  a  hard  journey  of  seven  hours,  we  came  to  some 
naked  places  among  the  limber,  wiit.'re  a  few  tufts  of  grass  showed  above 
the  snow,  on  the  side  of  a  hollow  ;  and  here  we  encamped.  Our  cow,  which 
every  day  got  poorer,  waskilicd  here,  hut  the  meat  was  rather  tough. 

December  KJ. — We  travelled  this  morning  through  snow  about  three  feet 
deep,  which,  being  crusted,  very  much  cut  the  feet  ol'  our  animals.  The 
mountain  still  gradually  rose;  we  crossed  several  spring  heads  covered  with 
quaking  asp;  otherwise  it  was  ail  pine  forest.  The  air  was  dark  with  falling 
snow,  whicii  every  where  weighed  down  the  trees.  The  (]e|)tlisof  the  forc'St 
were  proibundly  still ;  and  beiow,  we  scarce  felt  a  breath  of  the  wind  which 
v'hirled  tlie  ."snow  through  their  branches  I  found  that  it  required  some 
exertion  of  constancy  to  adhere  steadily  to  one  couisc  through  the  woods, 
when  we  wereunceriain  how  far  the  forest  extend'd.  or  what  lay  be-yond; 
and,  on  account  of  our  ;uiimals.  it  would  be  bad  to  spend  anotlier  night  on 
the  mountain.  Towards  noon  the  forest  looked  clear  aiiead,  aj)pearing  sud- 
denly to  terminate ;  and  beyond  a  certain  point  we  could  see  no  trees. 
Riding  rapidly  ahead  to  this  .sj)ot,  we  found  ourselves  on  the  verge  of  a  ver- 
tical and  rocky  wall  of  tlie  mountain.  At  our  feet — more  than  a  thousand 
feet  below — we  looked  into  a  green  prairie  country,  in  which  a  beautiful 
lake,  some  twenty  miles  in  length,  was  spread  along  tiie  foot  of  the  mouji- 
tains,  its  shores  bordered  wiih  green  grass,  .lust  then  the  sun  broke  out 
among  the  clouds,  and  illuiiiinated  the  country  below,  while  around  us  the 
storm  raged  fiercely.  Not  a  particle  of  ice  was  to  be  seen  on  the  lake,  or 
snow  on  its  borders,  and  all  was  like  sunmier  or  spring.  The  glow  of  the 
sun  in  the  valley  below  brightened  up  our  hearts  with  sudden  pleasure:  and 
we  made  the  woods  ring  with  joyful  shouts  to  those  behind  ;  and  gradually, 
as  each  came  up,  he  stopped  to  enjoy  the  uupxpected  scene.  Shivering  on 
pnow  three  feat  deep,  ami  j^tiflening  in  a  coid  north  wind,  wc  exclaimed  at 
once  that  thj  names  of  Summer  Lake  and  Winter  Ridge  should  be  applied 
to  these  two  proximate  ]iiacrs  of  such  sudden  and  violent  contrast. 

We  were  now  immediatel\'  on  the  verge  of  the  forest  land,  in  which  we 
had  been  travelling  so  many  days;  and,  looking  forward  to  the  east,  scarce 
a  tree  was  to  be  seen.  Viewed  from  our  elevation,  the  face  of  the  country 
exhibited  only  rocks  and  grass,  and  presented  a  region  in  wliicii  the  arte- 
misia  became  the  principal  wood,  furnishing  to  its  scattered  inhabitants  fuel 
for  their  fires,  building  material  for  their  huts,  and  shelter  for  the  small 
ganie  which  ministers  to  their  hmiger  and  nakedness.  Broadly  marked  by 
the  bomidary  of  the  mountain  wall,  and  immediately  below  us,  were  the 


% 


^■■; 


'V:''   . 


■.^^''  ■>■■ 


1!)2 


(;APT    FRRMONTM  NAKRATIvn. 


[1843. 


first  waters  of  that  (Ircat  Interior  IJasiii  wliicli  lias  the  Wiihsatcli  and  Hoar 
river  iiiountains  lor  its  ('(istcrii,  and  tlie  Sic'ira  Nevada  for  its  western  rim; 
and  tin!  edgt!  of  wiiicli  we  had  entered  ni)wards  of  three  months  helore,  at 
lh<!  (in-at  Suit  lake. 

When  we  had  .sulliciently  admired  the  seene  helow,  we  hegan  to  think 
abont  deseendinj,',  whieli  here  was  ini|t()s.sil)le,  and  W(!  turned  towards  ih" 
north,  truvrllni'^'  always  aloni;  the  rocky  wall.  Wit  eontinued  on  for  fou. 
or  five  niile.s,  niakiiii,'  inetfectiial  attempts  at  several  places  ;  and  at  lenf,'tl 
sncceeded  in  jiettiii^  down  at  t)ne  whieh  was  extremely  didicult  t)f  descent 
Night  had  (closed  in  before  the  fortJUiost  reached  the  hoitoni,and  it  wasdark 
befoie  We  all  found  ourselves  together  in  the  valley.  There  were  threeo 
four  half  dead  dry  eedar  trees  on  the  shore,  and  those  who  first  arrived 
kindled  bright  liies  lo  light  on  the  otiu'rs.  One  of  the  mules  rolled  ov»  r 
and  over  two  or  three  hundred  feet  into  u  ravine,  but  recovered  himselt. 
without  any  olher  injury  tlian  to  his  pack;  and  the  howitzer  was  left  mid- 
way tilt!  iiioinitain  until  morning.  IJy  observation,  lh«!  latitude  of  this  ei:- 
cam))nient  is -12'  57' iiiJ".  It  delayed  us  until  near  noon  the  next  day  J) 
recover  ourselves  and  put  every  thing  in  order ;  and  we  made  only  a  shoi' 
camp  along  the  westt-rn  shore  of  the  lak«',  which,  in  the  summer  tempera- 
ture we  enjoyed  to-day,  justified  the  name  we  had  given  it.  Our  coiirs»' 
would  have  laktiu  us  lo  the  other  shore,  ami  over  tiie  highlands  beyond  ; 
but  I  distrusted  ihe  appearance  ol  tlie  country,  and  decided  to  follow  a 
plainly  beaten  Indian  trail  leading  along  this  side  of  the  lake.  We  were 
now  in  a  coiintiy  where  the  scarcity  of  water  and  of  gra^s  makes  travel- 
ling dangerous,  and  great  caution  was  nec«'ssary. 

Deccviber  lb. — We  continued  on  the  trail  along  the  narrow  strip  of  land 
betwei  n  the  lake  and  the  high  rocky  wall,  (roni  which  we  liad  looked  dowt. 
two  d:iys  before.  Almost  every  half  mile  we  crossed  a  little  spring,  or 
stream  of  pure  cold  water;  and  tlu!  grass  was  certainly  as  fresh  and  green 
as  in  the  early  spring.  From  the  white  eillorescence  along  the  shore  ot 
the  lake,  we  were  enabled  to  judge  that  the  water  was  impure,  like  that 
of  lakes  we  sub^^e(]uently  found;  but  the  mud  prevented  us  from  approach- 
ing it.  We  encamped  near  the  eastern  point  of  the  lake,  where  there  ap- 
peared beivveen  the  hills  a  broad  and  low  connecting  hollow  with  the 
country  beyond.  From  a  rocky  hill  in  the  rear,  1  could  see,  marked  our 
by  a  line  of  yellow  dried  grass,  the  bed  of  a  stream,  which  probably  con- 
nected Ihe  lake  with  other  waters  in  the  spring. 

The  observed  latitude  of  this  encampment  is  42°  42'  37". 

December  19. — After  two  hours'  ride  in  an  easterly  direction, through  a 
low  country,  the  high  ridge  with  pine  forest  still  to  our  right,  and  a  rocky 
and  bald  but  lower  one  on  the  left,  we  reached  a  considerable  fresh-water 
stream,  which  issues  from  the  piney  mountains.  So  far  as  we  had  been 
able  lo  judge,  between  this  sireum  and  the  lake  we  had  crossed  dividing 
grounds;  and  there  did  not  appear  to  be  any  connexion,  as  might  be  in- 
ferred from  the  impure  condition  of  the  lake  water. 

The  rapid  stream  of  pure  water,  roaring  along  between  banks  overhung 
with  aspens  and  willows,  was  a  refre>hing  and  unexpected  sight ;  and  we 
followed  down  the  course  of  the  stream,  which  brought  us  soon  into  a 
marsh,  or  dry  lake,  formed  by  the  expanding  waters  of  the  stream.  It  was 
covered  with  high  reeds  and  rushes,  and  large  patches  of  ground  had  been 
turned  up  by  tlie  tquaws  in  digging  for  roots,  as  if  a  farmer  had  been  pre- 
paring the  land  for  grain.     I  could  not  succeed  in  finding  the  plant  for  which 


[1843. 

I  find  near 
cslt'iii  rim; 
i  Leiore,  a: 

:U)  to  think 
D wards  l\:» 
on  lor  foil: 
d  ut  loDgll 
of  descuiu 
ii  was  dark 
L're  ihrreo, 
irst  arrived 
rolled  ov»r 
ed  himsell, 
as  left  mid- 
I  of  this  en- 
tiuxt  day  f ) 
)tily  a  slioi- 
er  tompera- 
Our  coiirsf.' 
ds  hoyoiid  , 
to  follow  :i 
We  wert' 
akcs  travel- 
strip  of  land 
poked  dowt. 
3  spring,  or 
1  and  green 
le  shore  ot 
e,  hke  thai; 
I  approach- 
re  tliere  ap- 
^v  with  the 
marked  out 
obably  cor.- 


1,  through  a 
ind  a  rocky 
fresh-water 
e  had  been 
ed  dividing 
light  be  in- 

:s  overhung 
It ;  and  we 
oon  into  a 
m.  It  was 
d  had  been 
d  been  pre- 
it  for  which 


1843. 


CAPT.  FKKMONr'rt  NAKIIATIN  K. 


193 


thry  had  hcoii  di^i^^iri^.  'IIumo  wrre  frt'rpicrit'trails,  and  fersh  tiarks  of 
Itxhans  ;  and,  froiii  the  abundant  mIj^iis  visibU*,  (ho  bluek-tailod  ham  appoars 
to  he  nnnuMOUH  hero.  It  was  ovidcnt  thut,  in  other  scaHons,  (his  |)lnc(>  was 
a  shoot  of  \\a(*!r.  Crossing;  tliiM  niaish  towards  (he;  oastorn  hills,  and  pa.ss* 
inu;  over  a  bordorin<;  plaiti  of  heavy  sands,  covored  with  artoniisia,  wo  cw- 
c'ainp<;d  bcforo  sundown  on  iIk;  nccU,  which  here  was  very  .small,  h.jviiij; 
lost  its  water  in  the  marshy  ijround.s.  Wo  found  here  tolerably  ;;oo(|  <;ras8. 
i'ho  wind  to-ni<;ht  was  high,  and  W(!  had  no  longer  our  hll^o  pine;  firos, 
but  wor(!  driven  to  our  ohl  ro.souicc  of  small  dried  willows  an<l  arlemisia. 
About  twelve  miles  ahead,  the  valley  appears  to  be  closed  it\  by  a  high, 
dark-looking  lidgo. 

December  20 — Travi-lling  for  a  few  hours  down  the  stream  this  morn- 
ing, we  turned  a  point  of  the  hill  on  chii'  ii^!t,and  (!ame  suddenly  in  sight  of 
another  and  much  larger  lake,  vvhieli,  alonn  its  eastern  shore,  was  elosely 
bordered  by  the  high  black  ridge  which  w ailed  it  in  by  a  precipitous  fa(;o  on 
this  side.  Throughout  this  region  the  fuco  of  the  country  is  characterized 
by  lho.s(!  pr(!('ipices  of  black  volcanic  lock,  ge^nerally  enclosing  the  valleys  of 
streams,  and  liofpiently  terminating  tlic  bills.  Often  in  the  coujse  of  our 
journey  we  wcuild  be  tempted  to  continue  our  road  up  the  gentle  ascent  of  x 
sloping  hill,  w  hirh,  at  the  summit,  would  terminate  abruptly  in  a  black  preci- 
pice. Spread  out  over  a  length  of  20  miles,  (ho  lake,  when  we  f.ist  camo 
in  view,  presented  a  handsome  sheet  of  water ;  and  1  gave  to  it  the  najuo 
of  Lake  Ab(Mt,in  honor  of  the  chief  of  the  corps  to  which  1  belonged.  Tho 
fresh-water  stream  we  had  followed  emptied  into  the  lake  by  a  little  fall;  and 
\  was  doubtful  for  a  moment  whether  to  go  on,  or  encanip  at  this  place.  Tlie 
miry  ground  in  the  neighborhood  of  tho  lake  did  not  allow  us  to  examine 
the  vvutei'  conveniently,  and,  being  r»ow  on  the  borders  of  a  desert  country, 
we  were  moving  cautiously.  It  was,  however,  still  eaily  in  the  day,  and  1 
continued  on,  trusting  either  that  the  water  would  be  drinkable,  or  that  wo 
should  fmd  some  little  spring  from  the  hill  side.  We  were  following  an 
Indian  trail  which  led  along  the  steep  rocky  precipice  ;  a  black  ridge  along 
the  western  shore  holdinr  out  no  prospect  whatever.  The  white  etilores- 
cences  wliich  lined  the  shore  like  a  bank  of  snow,  and  the  disagreeable 
odor  which  filled  the  air  as  soon  as  we  came  near,  informed  us  ioo  plainly 
that  the  water  belonged  to  one  of  those  fetid  salt  lakes  which  are  common 
m  this  region.  We  continued  until  late  in  the  evening  to  work  along  the 
rocky  shore,  but,  as  often  afterwards,  the  dry  inhospitable  rock  deceived 
us  ;  and,  halting  on  the  lake,  we  kindled  up  fires  to  guide  those  who  were 
stratrgling  along  behind.  We  tried  the  water,  but  it  was  impossible  to 
drink  it,  and  most  of  the  people  to-night  lay  down  without  eating ;  but 
some  of  us,  who  had  always  a  great  reluctance  to  cIo?e  the  day  without 
supper,  dug  holes  along  the  shore,  and  obtained  water,  which,  being  filtered, 
was  sufficiently  palatable  to  be  used,  but  still  retained  much  of  its  nauseat- 
ing taste.  There  was  very  little  grass  for  the  animals,  the  shore  being 
lined  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  chenopodiaceous  shrubs,  which  burned 
with  a  (juick  bright  flame,  and  made  our  firewood. 

The  next  morning  we  had  scarcely  travelled  two  hours  along  the  shore 
when  we  reached  a  place  where  the  mountains  made  a  bay,  leaving  at  their 
feet  a  low  bottom  around  the  lake.  Here  we  found  numerous  hillocks 
covered  with  rushes,  in  the  midst  of  which  were  deep  holes,  or  sp.ringSjoI 
pure  water;  and  the  bottom  vi^as  covored  with  grass,  which,  althougli  of  a 
•salt  and  unwholesome  quality,  and  mixed  with  saline  efflorescencej,  was 


^ 


Ml:, 


■'It-   -^ 

w 


i 


\'t\ 


CAPT.  FKEMONTH  NAHKATIVE. 


[1843. 

^till  iifiiirulntit,  niul  iiindc  u  good  It.iltini;  place  to  recruit  our  aiiiin:il<i ;  ond 
\\-u  iic(>()iilir<t;ly  etKMunpei!  lure  lor  the  iciiiiiinder  ol'thc  day.  I  rodo  ahead 
several  miles  to  ascertain  il  Iheic  wanuuy  ap|H!ataiice  ol  a  uatercouisc;  en- 
teiiiif;  the  lake;  hut  loutKi  rxrie,  the  hills  preserving  their  dry  character, 
nnd  the  shore  of  the  lake  sprinkled  \vith  ihesnine  white  powdery  »uf)starrce, 
atrd  covered  with  the  same  .Nhiuhs.  'rher(!  were  (locks  ol"  iliick.s  otr  the 
lake,  and  Irecjuertt  tracks  u\'  Indians  alon^'  the  tihure,  where  the  grass  had 
been  recently  hurnt  liy  their  (ires. 

We  ascended  the  hordeiinn  riioiintain,  in  order  to  ohtain  a  more  perlcct 
view  of  (he  lake  in  bketchiriK  its  (i;.^(ire  ;  hills  8wee]>  entirely  around  its 
hasin,  ironi  which  the  waters  ha\e  no  outlet. 

JJecunhtr  22. — 'I'o-day  we  led  this  Coihidditijj  hike.  Impassable  rocky 
ridges  barred  our  progress  t(»  the  eastward,  and  1  accordingly  hore  oil"  to- 
U'ards  the  south,  over  an  cxteri^iive  sage  |)lairr.  At  a  consiilctahle  distance 
ahead,  and  a  little  on  our  lelt,  was  a  range  oC  snowy  mountains,  and  the 
country  declined  gradually  towards  the  loot  of  a  high  and  nearer  riilge  im- 
mediately before  us,  which  piesonted  the  (eature  o(  black  precipices,  .low 
becoming  cotunion  to  the  country.  Unthe  sumrrrit  o(  the  ridge,  snow  was 
visible  ;  and  there  beirrg  every  indication  ol'  a  stream  at  its  base,  we  rode 
on  until  after  dark,  but  were  unable  to  reach  it,  and  halted  among  the  sage 
bushes  on  the  open  plain,  \vithout  either  grass  or  u  afer.  'I'he  two  India- 
rubber  bags  had  been  tilled  with  water'  in  the  morning,  which  all'orded  suf- 
iicient  for  the  camp  ;  and  rain  in  the  uighi  formed  pools,  which  relieved  the 
thrist  of  the  animals.  Where  we  (Micumped  on  the  bleak  sandy  plain,  the 
Indians  had  made  huts  or  circular  enclosures,  al.oitt  four  I'eet  high  and  twelve 
feet  broad,  of  arternisia  bushes.  Whether' these  had  been  forts  or  houses, 
or  what  they  bad  been  doing  in  such  a  deser  t  place,  we  could  not  ascertain. 

December  23. — The  weather  is  mild  ;  the  thermometer  at  daylight  SS'-* ; 
t'^^  '-'nd  having  been  from  the  soitthward  for  several  days.  The  country 
I*  \^ery  forbidding  appearance,  picsenting  to  the  eye  nothing  but  sage 
anu  jarren  ridges.  We  rode  up  towards  the  mountain,  along  the  foot  of 
Avhicli  we  (ound  a  lake,  which  v/e  could  not  approach  on  account  of  the 
mud  ;  and,  passing  around  its  southern  end,  ascended  the  slope  at  the  foot 
of  the  ridge,  where  in  some  hollows  we  had  discovered  bushes  and  small 
trees — iir  such  situations,  a  sure  sign  of  water.  We  found  here  several 
springs,  and  the  hill  side  was  well  sprinkled  with  a  species  of  festuca — 
a  better  grass  than  we  had  found  for  many  days.  Our  elevated  position 
gave  us  a  good  view  over  the  country,  but  we  discovered  nothing  very  en- 
couraging. Southward,  about  ten  miles  distant,  was  another  small  lake, 
towards  which  abroad  trail  led  along  the  ridge ;  and  this  appearing  to 
afford  the  most  practicable  route,  1  determined  to  continue  our  journey  in 
that  direction. 

December  24. — We  found  the  water  of  the  lake  tolerably  pure,  and  en- 
camped at  the  farther  end.  There  were  some  good  gr-ass  and  canes  along 
the  shore,  and  the  vegetation  at  this  place  consisted  principally  of  chenopo- 
diaceous  shrubs. 

December  25. — We  were  roused,  on  Christmas  morning,  by  a  discharge 
from  the  small  arms  and  howitzer,  with  which  our  people  saluted  the  day  ; 
and  the  name  of  which  we  bestowed  on  the  lake.  It  was  the  first  time,  per- 
haps, in  this  remote  and  desolate  region,  in  which  it  had  been  so  commem- 
orated. Always,  on  days  of  religious  or  national  commemoration,  our  voy- 
ageurs  expact  some  unusual  allowance  ;  and,  having  nothing  else,  I  gave 


[1843. 

tnnlfl ;  ond 
ode  ahead 
L'cjiiiMo  en- 
cKaiactcr, 
subataiicc, 
(Us  oil  the 
:  grass  had 

iro  perfect 
utuuiid  its 

able  rocky 
)or(:  oil  to- 
le  (liiitaiicc 
[18,  und  the 
r  ridge  im- 
ijjicps,  .low 
,  SHOW  was 
0,  we  rode 
ijfj;  the  sage 
two  liulia- 
iVorded  sul- 
elicved  the 
I  plain,  the 
and  twelve 
3  or  houses, 
t  ascertain, 
y  light  38'^; 
le  country 
g  but  sage 
the  loot  of 
unt  of  tlie 
at  the  foot 
und  small 
ere  several 
Jestuca — 
id  position 
ig  very  en- 
small  lake, 
ipearing  to 
journey  in 

re,  and  en- 
;anes  along 
if  chenopo- 


1 


discharge 


d  the  day ; 
t  time,  per- 
comrnem- 
n,  our  voy- 
dse,  I  gave 


1643.J  CAF'T.  FltRMO.NT'H  NAItHATIVE.  \f}li 

thr»m  cnrh  a  little  l)ran<ly,  (which  was  cftrofully  giiardod,  in  one  ofthe  mo^t 
useful  articles  a  Ua\«'ll(  r  <'an  can  v,^  with  som*!  collVi'  and  sugar,  which 
hero,  where  every  eatable  wa«*ii  luxury,  was  sutlicient  to  make  them  a  least. 
'I'ho  day  was  •lutiny  and  warm  ;  and,  resuminq  our  journey,  wo  crossed 
noine  slight  dividing  grounds  into  a  similar  basin,  walled  iri  on  the  right  by 
a  lofty  mountain  rid.'^c  The  plainly  beaten  trail  still  <  ontiiuuMl,  hihI  occa* 
sionally  we  pissed  canipitig  grounds  of  thc<  Indians,  which  imiicatt'd  to  me 
that  v.e  were  on  one  of  tin;  great  thoroughfares  <»f  the  country.  In  the 
afternoon  I  attempted  to  travel  in  a  more  eastern  dir<'cti()n  ;  l)ut,  altera  few 
laborious  miles,  was  be  ilcn  back  into  the  basin  by  an  impossuble  country. 
There  wore  fresh  Inilian  ti.uks  about  the  valley,  and  list  night  a  hors(!  was 
stolen.  We  encamped  on  the  valley  bottom,  where  there  was  some  cream* 
like  water  in  ponds,  colored  by  a  clay  soil  and  fro/(Mi  over,  (-henopoiliaccous 
shrubs  constituted  the  growth,  and  made  again  our  lire  \v()0(l.  The  animals 
were  driven  to  the  hill,  where  there  was  tolerably  good  ^'lass. 

/kcembcr  2G. — Our  general  course  was  aj'ain  soutli.  The  country  con- 
sists of  larger  or  smalh;r  basins,  into  which  tne  mountain  waters  I'un  down, 
forming  small  lakes;  they  piescnt  a  perfect  level,  from  wliii'li  the  moun- 
tains rise  immediately  and  al)iuptly.  Between  the  successive  basins,  the 
dividing  grounds  are  usually  very  slight  ;  and  it  is  probable  that,  in  the  sea- 
sons of  high  water,  many  of  these  basins  are  in  communication.  At  such 
times  there  is  evidently  an  aniindance  of  water,  though  now  we  lind  scarce- 
ly more  than  the  tlry  beds.  On  either  side,  the  mountain'^,  tlu)ugh  not  very 
high,  appear  to  be  rocky  and  sterile.  The  basin  in  whicli  we  W(.>re  travel- 
ling declined  towai  ds  the  southwest  corner,  where  the  mountains  indicated 
a  narrow  outlet;  and,  turning  round  a  rocky  point  or  cape,  we  continued 
up  a  lateral  branch  valley,  in  which  we  encamped  ot  night  on  a  lapid,  pretty 
little  stream  of  fresh  w  ater,  which  wa  found  un(;xpectcdly  atnoiig  tlie  sage 
near  the  ridge,  on  the  light  side  of  the  valley.  It  was  l)or(lered  with  grassy 
bottoms  and  clumps  of  willows,  the  water  partially  fiozen.  This  stream 
belongs  to  the  basin  we  had  left.  By  a  partial  observation  to-night,  our 
camp  was  found  to  be  liirocily  on  the  13d  parallel.  Tonight  a  horse  be- 
longing to  Carson,  one  of  the  best  we  had  in  the  eamj),  was  stolen  by  the 
Indians. 

December  27. — We  continued  up  the  valley  of  the  strcrim,  the  principal 
branch  of  which  here  issues  from  a  bed  of  high  mountains.  We  turned 
up  a  branch  to  the  left,  and  fell  into  an  Indian  trail,  which  conducted  us  by 
a  good  road  over  open  bottoms  along  the  creek,  where  the  sno^v  was  five  or 
six  inches  deep.  Gradually  ascending,  the  trail  led  through  a  good  broad 
pass  in  the  mountain,  where  we  found  the  snow  about  one  foot  deep.  There 
were  some  remarkably  large  cedars  in  the  pass,  which  were  covered  with  an 
unusual  quantity  of  frost,  which  we  supposed  might  possibly  indicate  the 
neighborhood  of  water ;  and  as,  in  the  arbitrary  position  of  Mary's  lake, 
we  were  already  beginning  to  look  for  it,  this  circumstance  contributed  to 
our  hope  of  finding  it  near.  Descending  from  the  mountain,  we  reached 
another  basin,  on  the  Hat  lake  bed  of  which  we  found  no  water,  and 
encamped  among  the  sage  on  the  bordering  plain,  where  the  snow  was 
still  about  one  foot  deep.  Among  this  the  grass  was  remarkably  green,  and 
to-night  the  animals  fared  tolerably  well. 

December  28. — The  snow  being  deep,  I  had  determined,  if  any  more 
horses  were  stolen,  to  follow  the  tracks  of  the  Indians  into  the  mountains, 


":?'• 


■V 


lf)6 


OAPT    PUEMONTH  KAKRATIVE 


V 


[1813. 

and  put  A  temporary  rlicrk  to  thvir  tily  opnaiionN ;  hut  ii  diii  not  orcur 
igHin. 

Of.r  roiid  thin  morning  lay  down  n  li'vcl  vidU'y,l>ord«rf(l  by  »tccp  moun- 
tuinouM  rid;;<>>4,  cisini;  very  abruptly  Irurn  ibi*  pluin.    Artt.>tlli^ill  wan  tbc  pritt* 
cipul  plant,  inin^lrd    with    KrcmontiH  find   lbt>   chonopodjiircouN  shrubti. 
Tno  nriciiiisiii  wa.^t  Uvie  cxlri-niely  liwge,  bcin;;  soiiictinins  u  foot  in  dianti  - 
tnr  Dnd  ci^bt  Tim  I  lii^b       liiding  (juicily  aloni';  ovir  (be  .^riow,  we  oauio  nud- 
denly  upon  .siuoUeH  lisin^  anions  the^e  biiibth  ;  and,  ^allopinu  up,  we  found 
two  iiulH,  open  at  tbo  lop,  and  loosely  built  of  Nn;;c,  wbicb  appeared  tuha\i> 
hccn  deH(!ited  at  (be  i;i»(unt;  nnd,  looking  bastilv  atouad,  wn  saw  Heveial 
Indians  on  tlie  cre.st  ol  (be  ridge  near  by,  ami  sev'ral  oibers  .scrambling  u\) 
the  hide.      \V{>  had  ^  omr  upon  them  mo  suddenly,  tliat  tbey  had  been  well- 
nigh  surpri.^ed  in  ibeir  lodges.      A  sage  iiie  nas  burning  in  (be  middle  ;  a 
few  baNU(!t:«  made  of  straw  were  lying  tibout,  with  one  or  two  rabbit  skins 
and  there  wa.s  a  little  gra.s.-s  scattered  abr)ut,  on  wbicb  tbey  had  been  lying. 
"  Tabibo — l)n  !"  tbey  sbouted  from  the  bills— a  word  which,  in  the  Snakf 
language,  .signilie^  u:hilc — and  remaincil   looking  at  us  Jrom   behind   (be 
rocks.      CuLson  and  Ciodey  rode  towards  tb(>  hill,  but  (be  uwn  ran  oHIike 
deer.     Tbey  bad  been  ho  much  pressed,  tba(  a  woman  with  two  children 
had  drop))e(l  behind  a  sage  bush  ntMir  the  lodL'c.  and  wben  Carson  accident- 
ally stumbled  upon  ber,  sbe  iir..r.c^'ia(ely  tji'uan  scrreaniing  in  the  extremity 
of  fear,  and  shut  her  eyes  fast,  to  avoul  seeing  biin.     She  was  brought  back 
to  the  lodge,  and  we  endeavored  in  vain  to  open  a  uoinmutdcation  with  the 
men.      By  dint  of  piescnis,  and  friendly  deinoiiHtrations,  she  was  brougbt 
to  calmness;  and  we  h)iind  (hat  they  belonged  (o  (iie  Snake  nation, speak- 
ing the  language!  of  ibat  people.     Eight  or  ten  appeared  to  live  together, 
under  the  same  little  shelter;  and  they  seerjied  to  bave  nootber  subsistence 
than  the  roots  or  seeds  tbey  might  have  stored  ii(),  and  the  hares  which  live 
ill  the  sage,  and  wbicb  they  are  enabled  to  track  thioiigh  the  snow,  and  are 
very  skilful  in  killing.      Tbeir  skins  allord   them  a  little  scanty  covering. 
Herding  toge(he.  among  bushes,  and  crouching  almost  naked  over  a  little 
sage  fire,  using  their  instinct  only  to  procure  food,  tbese  may  be  considered, 
among  human  beings,  tbe  nearest  approach  to  tbe  mere  animal  creation. 
We  have  reason  to  believe  that  these  had  never  before  seen  the  face  of  a 
white  man. 

The  day  bad  bnen  pleasant^  but  about  two  o'clock  it  began  to  blow  ;  and 
crossing  a  sligbt  dividing  ground  we  encamped  on  the  sheltered  side  of  a 
hill,  where  Ibere  was  good  hunch  grass,  having  made  a  day's  journey  of  21 
miles.  The  night  closed  in,  threatening  snow  ;  but  the  large  sage  bushes 
made  bright  fiies. 

December  20. — The  morning  mild,  and  at  4  o'clock  it  commenced  snow- 
ing. We  took  our  way  across  a  plain,  thickly  covered  with  snow,  towards 
a  range  of  bills  in  the  southeast.  The  sky  soon  became  so  dark  with  snow, 
that  little  could  c)o  seen  of  tbe  surrounding  country ;  and  we  reached  the 
summit  of  tbe  liills  in  a  heavy  snow  storm.  On  the  side  we  had  ap- 
proached, (his  had  appeared  to  be  only  a  ridge  of  low  hills;  and  we  were 
surprised  to  find  ourselves  on  the  summit  of  a  bed  of  broken  mountains, 
which,  as  far  as  (ho  weather  would  permit  us  to  see,  declined  rapidly  to 
some  low  country  aliead,  presenting  a  dreary  and  sivage  character;  and 
for  a  moment  I  looked  around  in  doubt  on  the  wild  and  inhospitable  pros- 
pect, scarcely  knowing  what  road  to  take  which  might  conduct  us  to  some 
place  of  shelter  for  the  night.     Noticing  among  the  bills  the  bead  of  a 


1844.1 


CAPT.  FRFMONTrt  NAFlKATJVr 


If»7 


ecj)  moun- 
N  thn  pi  111- 
118  tthrul)^. 
;  ill  (lianit- 

CUIIIC  HUll- 

,  wf;  fouitd 
■(•<l  to  ha>t' 
i\v  wevcial 
iiiiblin^  up 
been  well- 
middlt! ;  ,1 
libit  skins 
)cen  lyin^;. 
the  Snakf 
jehind  ihr 
ran  oil'  like 

0  chiUlr»Mi 
n  acnident- 

1  extremity 
ou^ht  back 
)n  with  th»» 
as  brought 
ion,8peak- 
e  together, 
iiibsistence 
which  live 
w,  and  arc; 
r  covering, 
ver  a  little 
onsidered, 

creation, 
e  face  of  a 


blow  ;  and 
d  side  of  a 
jrney  of  24 
age  bushes 

iced  snow- 
w,  towards 
with  snow, 
Bached  the 
'6  had  ap- 
d  we  were 
mountains, 

rapidly  to 
acter;  and 
table  pros- 
US  to  some 

head  of  a 


grassy  hollow,  I  ilctcnniruMl  to  follow  it,  it  thn  hop<»  that  it  would  conduct 
U8  to  H  Hlroaiii.  \Vc  foJIdwcMl  n  >i  inding  di'Hccnt  lor  hrv(  nt  miles,  the  liol- 
low  gradually  broadritit);;  into  little  meadows,  and  Im  ((iiniii;^  the  bed  of  a 
stream  a.s  we  a<lvaiu'r»l  ,  .-iri(l  towards  night  \\v  v  "ir  agirralily  Mirprised 
by  the  appearancff  ol  a  nnIIIow  grove,  where  we  loutid  a  !.lnlh'M'd  camp, 
with  watc'r  and  excelliril  and  abundant  grass.  The  grats,  wbicli  wascov- 
«re<l  by  t*^e  snow  on  the  Ixtttoiii,  was  long  ami  green,  aed  the  lace  of  the 
mountain  had  a  more  l.ivorablo  chiractcr  in  its  vegetati«in,  being  snioother, 
.ind  coverc*!  with  grxxl  buiit-h  ^lass.  'I'he  snow  was  deep,  aii'l  il.r  night 
very  cold.  A  broad  trail  bad  enten'd  the  valley  from  the  iii;ht,  and  a  nhort 
distance  below  the  camp  were  the  tracks  where  a  coiisid(M  »ble  party  of 
Indians  had  parsed  on  bnrs(>liack,  who  bad  tuinerl  out  to  the  l(<lt,  appa- 
rently with  the  view  of  crosiinn  the  mountains  to  the  eastward. 

Decprnhcr  M). — Alter  lollnwing  tin;  streain  lor  a  lew  Imurs  in  a  south- 
east<!rly  direction,  it  entered  a  cauon  where  we  ronld  not  follow;  but  de- 
U'rmined  not  to  leave  the  stream,  we  searched  a  passage;  below,  where  we 
>()uld  regain  it,  and  entered  a  regular  narrow  v.dloy.  The  w.iter  had  now 
more  the  appearance  ol  a  llow  iiig  ereek  ;  several  times  w c  p  issed  groves 
of  willows,  and  we  began  to  led  ourselves  out  of  all  dilViculty.  From  our 
j)osition,  it  was  reasonal)l(>  to  conclude  that  this  stream  would  litid  its  outlet 
in  Mary's  lake,  and  conduct  us  ini  >  a  Ix  ei  coimti  v.  We  bid  descended 
rapidly,  and  here  we  found  very  little  snow.  On  both  si(b's,  the  mountains 
showed  often  stupendous  and  curious-lo(>king  rocks,  which  at  several  places 
so  narrowed  the  valley,  that  scarcely  a  pas^  was  left  lor  the  camp.  It  was 
a  singular  place  to  travel  through — shut  up  in  the  earth,  a  sort  of  chasm, 
tl.e  little  strip  of  grass  under  our  feet,  the  rough  walls  of  bare  rock  on 
either  hand,  and  the  narrow  strip  of  sky  above.  TIm.'  giii.s.s  to-night  was 
abundant,  and  we  encamped  in  high  spirits. 

December  31. — Alter  an  hour's  lide  this  morning,  f)ur  hop^^s  were  onco 
more  destroyed.  Ilio  valU^y  opened  out,  and  belorc  us  .i;;;iiii  lay  one  of 
the  dry  basins.  Alter  some  search,  we  discovered  a  higli-walei  outlet, 
which  brought  us  in  a  few  miles,  and  by  a  descent  of  .several  hundi  ed  feet, 
into  another  long  broad  basin,  iu  which  we  found  the  bod  of  a  stream,  and 
obtained  sufficient  water  by  cutting  the  ice.  'llie  grass  on  the  bottoms 
was  salt  and  unpalatable. 

Here  we  concluded  the  year  1843,  and  our  new  year's  eve  was  rather 
a  gloomy  one.  The  result  of  our  journey  began  to  be  very  uncertain  ;  the 
country  was  singularly  unfavorable  tu  travel;  the  grasses  being  frequently 
of  a  very  unwholesome  character,  and  the  h»)ols  of  our  animals  were  so 
worn  and  cut  by  the  rocks,  that  many  of  them  were  lame,  and  could 
scarcely  be  got  along. 

New  Yearns  daif,  1841. — We  continued  dow  n  the  valley,  between  a  dry- 
looking  black  ridge  on  the  left  and  a  more  snowy  and  high  one  on  the 
right.  Our  road  was  bad  along  the  bottom,  being  broken  by  gullies  and 
impeded  by  sage,  and  sandy  on  the  hills,  where  there  is  nut  a  blade  of 
grass,  nor  does  any  appear  on  the  mountains.  The  soil  in  many  places 
consists  of  a  fine  powdery  sand,  covered  with  a  saline  elllorescence;  and 
the  general  character  of  the  country  is  desert.  During  the  day  we  di- 
rected our  course  towards  a  black  cape,  at  the  foot  of  which  a  column  of 
smoke  indicated  hot  springs. 

January  2. — We  were  on  the  road  early,  the  face  of  the  country  hidden 
by  falling  snow.  We  irr.velled  along  the  bed  of  the  stream,  in  some  places 


198 


(JAPT.   KREMOM'rt  NAHUATIVE. 


[1844 


dry,  in  olhcis  covered  with  ice;  the  tiavellinn  being  very  had,  through 
dot  |)  line  saml,  icn<lered  tenacious  by  a  uiixluic  of  clay.  The  weather 
cIcatTtl  ii|)  a  lillle  at  tioon,  and  we  reached  (ho  hot  spiings  of  which  we 
had  seen  the  vii|)or  tlie  day  before.  There  was  a  large  fiehl  of  the  usual 
salt  grass  here,  peculiar  to  such  places^.  The  country  otherwise  is  a  per- 
fect barren,  without  a  blade  of  grass,  the  only  j)lants  being  some  dwarf 
Fremontias.  We  passed  the  rocky  cape,  a  jaizged  broken  point,  bare  and 
torn.  The  rocks  arc  volcanic,  and  the  hills  here  liavo  a  burnt  appear- 
ance— cinti*  5  aiui  coal  occasionally  appealing  as  at  a  blacksmith's  forge. 
We  crossed  the  large  dry  bed  ol  a  muddy  lake  in  a  southeasterly  direction, 
and  encamped  at  night  w  ithout  water  and  without  grass,  among  sage  bushes 
covered  with  snow.  The  heavy  road  made  scv(Mal  mules  give  out  to-day; 
and  a  horse,  which  had  made  the  journey  from  the  States  successfully  thus 
far,  was  left  on  the  trail. 

January  3. — A  fog,  so  dense  that  we  could  not  see  a  hundred  yards, 
covered  the  country,  and  the  men  that  were  sent  out  after  the  horses  were 
bewildered  and  lost ;  and  we  were  consequently  detained  at  camp  until 
late  in  the  day.  Our  situation  had  now  become  a  serious  one.  We  had 
reached  and  run  over  the  position  where,  according  to  the  best  maps  in 
my  possession,  wo  should  have  found  Mary's  lake,  or  river.  We  were 
evidently  on  the  verge  of  the  desert  which  had  been  reported  to  us ;  and 
the  appearance  of  the  country  was  so  foi  bidding,  that  I  was  afraid  to  enter 
it,  and  determined  to  bear  away  to  the  southward,  keeping  close  along  the 
mountains,  in  the  full  expectation  of  reaching  the  Buenaventura  river. 
This  morning  I  put  every  man  in  the  camp  on  foot — myself,  of  course, 
among  the  rest — and  in  this  manner  lightened  by  distribution  the  loads  of 
the  animals.  We  travelled  seven  or  eight  miles  along  the  ridge  border- 
ing the  valley,  and  encamped  where  there  were  a  few  bunches  of  grass  on 
the  bed  of  a  hill  torrent,  without  water.  There  were  some  large  artemi- 
sias  ;  but  the  principal  plants  are  chenopodiaceous  shrubs.  The  rock  com- 
posing the  mountains  is  here  changed  suddenly  into  white  granite.  The 
fog  showed  the  tops  of  the  hills  at  sunset,  and  stars  enough  for  observations 
in  the  early  evening,  and  then  closed  over  us  as  before.  Latitude  by  ob- 
servation, 40"  48'  15". 

January  4. — The  fog  to-day  was  still  more  dense,  and  the  people  again 
were  bewildered.  We  travelled  a  few  miles  around  the  western  point  of 
the  ridge,  and  encamped  where  there  were  a  tew  tufts  of  grass,  but  no 
water.  Our  animals  now  were  in  a  very  alarming  state,  and  there  was  in- 
creased anxiety  in  the  camp. 

January  5. — Same  dense  fog  continued,  and  one  of  the  mules  died  in 
camp  this  morning.  1  have  had  occasion  to  reujark,  on  such  occasions  as 
these,  that  animals  w  hich  are  about  to  die  leave  the  band,  and,  coming 
into  the  camp,  lie  down  about  the  fires.  We  moved  to  a  place  where 
there  was  a  little  better  grass,  abo  t  two  miles  distant.  Taplin,  one  of  our 
best  men,  who  had  gone  out  on  a  scouting  excursion,  ascended  a  mountain 
near  by,  and  to  his  great  surprise  emerged  into  a  region  of  bright  sunshine, 
in  which  the  upper  parts  of  the  mountain  were  glowing,  while  below  all 
was  obscured  in  the  darkest  fog. 

January  G. — The  fog  continued  the  same,  and,  with  Mr.  Preuss  and  Car- 
son, I  ascended  the  mountain,  to  sketch  the  leading  features  of  the  country, 
as  some  indication  of  our  future  route,  while  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  explored  the 
country  below.     In  a  very  short  distance  we  had  ascended  above  the  mist, 


[1844b 

I,  through 
J  weather 
which  we 

the  usual 
J  is  a  per- 
ms dwail 

bare  and 
t  appeai- 
:h's  forge, 
direction, 
ge  bushes 
ut  to-day; 
il'ully  thus 

ed  yards, 
rses  were 
amp  until 
We  had 
t  maps  in 
We  were 
9  us ;  and 
d  to  enter 
along  the. 
lira  river. 
)f  course, 
e  loads  of 
e  border- 
f  grass  on 
;e  artemi- 
ock  com- 
ite.  The 
nervations 
de  by  ob- 

>ple  again 
n  point  of 
s,  but  no 
re  was  in- 

3S  died  in 
3asions  as 
I,  coming 
ce  where 
)ne  of  our 
mountain 
sunshine, 
below  all 

and  Car- 

!  country, 

lored  the 

the  mist, 


1344] 


C.VrT.   rREM()NT\^  NARRATIVE. 


IDl) 


but  the  view  obtained  was  not  very  gratifying.  The  fog  had  partially 
clcarcd  off  from  below  when  wc  reached  the  summit;  ond  in  the  soiith- 
wesl  corner  of  a  basin  communicating  with  that  in  which  we  had  encamp- 
ed, we  saw  a  lofty  column  of  smoke,  IG  miles  distant,  indicating  the  presence 
of  hot  springs.  There,  also,  appealed  to  be  the  outlet  of  those  draining 
channels  of  the  country  ;and,  as  such  places  all'orded  always  more  or  less 
grass,  I  dolcrmined  io  steer  in  that  direction.  The  ridge  we  had  ascended 
appeared  to  be  composed  of  fragments  of  white  granite.  We  saw  here 
traces  of  sheep  and  antelope. 

Entering  the  neighboring  valley,  and  ciossing  'he  bed  of  another  lake, 
after  a  hard  day's  travel  over  ground  of  yielding  mud  and  sand,  we  reached 
the  springs,  where  we  found  an  abundance  of  grass,  which,  though  only 
tolerably  good,  made  thi?  place,  with  reference  to  the  past,  u  refreshing  and 
agreeable  spot. 

This  is  the  most  extraordinary  locality  of  hot  springs  we  had  met  during 
the  journey.  The  basin  of  the  largest  one  has  a  circumference  of  several 
hundred  feet  ;  but  there  is  at  one  extremity  a  circular  space  of  about  fifteen 
feet  in  diameter,  entirely  occupied  by  the  boiling  water.  It  boils  up  at  ir- 
regular intervals,  and  with  much  noise.  The  water  is  clear,  and  the  spring 
deep  ;  a  pole  about  sixteen  feet  long  was  easily  immersed  in  the  centre, 
but  we  had  no  means  of  forming  a  good  idea  of  the  depth.  It  was  surround- 
ed on  the  margin  with  a  border  of  jg-rcen  grass,  and  nearthe  shore  the  tem- 
perature of  the  water  was  20G°.  We  had  no  means  of  ascertaining  that 
of  the  centre,  where  the  heat  was  greatest ;  but,  by  dispersing  the  water 
with  a  polo,  the  temperature  at  the  margin  was  increased  to  203%  and  in 
the  centre  it  was  doubtless  higher.  By  driving  the  pole  towards  the  bot- 
tom, the  water  was  made  to  boil  up  with  increased  force  and  noise.  There 
are  several  other  interesting  places,  where  water  and  smoke  or  gas  escape, 
but  they  would  require  a  long  description.  The  water  is  impregnated  with 
common  salt,  but  not  so  much  so  as  to  render  it  unfit  for  general  cooking; 
and  a  mixture  of  snow  made  it  pleasant  to  drink. 

In  the  immediate  neighborhood,  the  valley  bottom  is  covered  almost  ex- 
clusively with  chenopodiaceous  shrubs,  of  greater  luxuriance,  and  larger 
growth,  than  we  have  seen  them  in  any  preceding  part  of  the  journey. 

I  obtained  this  evening  some  astronomical  observations. 

Our  situation  now  required  caution.  Including  those  which  gave  out 
from  the  injured  condition  of  their  feet,  and  those  stolen  by  Indians,  we 
had  lost,  since  leaving  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  fifteen  animals;  and  of 
these,  nine  had  been  left  in  the  last  few  days.  I  therefore  determined,  un- 
til we  should  reach  a  country  of  water  and  vegetation,  to  feel  our  way 
ahead,  by  having  the  line  of  route  explored  some  fifteen  or  twenty  miles 
in  advance,  and  only  to  leave  a  present  encampment  when  the  succeeding 
one  was  known. 

Taking  with  me  Godey  and  Carson,  I  made  to-day  a  thoiough  explora- 
tion of  the  neighboring  valleys,  and  found  in  a  ravine  in  the  bordering 
mountains  a  good  camping  place,  where  was  water  in  springs,  and  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  grass  for  a  night.  Overshading  the  springs  were  some 
trees  of  the  sweet  cottonwood,  which,  after  a  long  interval  of  absence,  we 
saw  again  with  pleasure,  regarding  them  as  harbingers  of  a  better  country. 
To  us,  they  were  eloquent  of  green  prairies  and  buffalo.  We  found  here  a 
broad  and  plainly  marked  trail,  on  which  there  were  tracks  of  horses,  and 
we  appeared  to  have  regained  one  of  the  thoroughfares  which  pass  by  the 


ly-' 


^^^ 


fSJ'ii' 


200 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1844^ 


watering  places  of  the  country.  On  the  western  mountains  of  the  valley, 
Avith  which  this  of  the  boilinj^  spring  communicates,  wc  remarked  scat- 
tered cedars — probably  an  indication  that  we  were  on  the  borders  of  the 
timbered  region  extending  to  the  Pacific.  We  reached  the  camp  at  sunset^ 
after  a  day's  ride  of  about  forty  miles.  The  horses  we  rode  were  in  good 
order,  being  of  some  that  were  kc|)t  for  emergencies,  and  rarely  used, 

Mr.  Preuss  had  ascended  one  of  the  mountains,  and  occupied  the  day  in 
sketching  the  country  ;  and  Mr.  Fitzj)atrick  had  found,  a  lew  miles  distant, 
a  hollow  of  excellent  grass  and  pure  water,  to  which  the  animals  were 
driven,  as  I  remained  another  day  to  give  them  an  opportunity  to  recruit 
their  strength.  Indians  appear  to  be  every  where  prowling  about  like  wild 
animals,  and  there  is  a  fresh  trail  across  the  snow  in  the  valley  near. 

Latitude  of  the  boiling  springs,  40°  39'  46". 

On  the  9th  wc  crossed  over  to  the  cnttonwood  camp.  Among  the  shrubs 
on  the  hills  were  a  few  bushes  of  ephedra  occidtntalis,  which  afterwards 
occurred  frequently  along  our  road,  and,  as  usual,  the  lowlands  wore  occu- 
pied with  artemisia.  While  the  party  proceeded  to  this  place,  Carson  and 
myself  reconnoitred  the  road  in  advance,  and  found  another  good  encamp- 
ment for  the  following  day. 

January  10. — We  continued  our  roconnoisance  ahead,  pursuing  a  south 
direction  in  the  basin  along  the  ridge  ;  the  camp  following  slowly  after.  On 
ii  large  trail  there  is  never  any  doubt  of  finding  suitable  places  for  encamp- 
ments. We  reached  the  end  of  the  basin,  where  we  found,  in  a  hollow  of 
the  mountain  which  enclosed  it,  an  abundance,  of  good  bunch  grass. 
Leaving  a  signal  for  the  party  to  encamp,  we  continued  our  way  up  the 
hollow,  intending  to  see  what  lay  beyond  the  mountain.  The  hollow  was 
several  miles  long,  forming  a  good  pass,  the  snow  deepening  to  about  a 
foot  as  we  neared  the  summit.  Beyond,  a  defile  between  the  mountains 
descended  rapidly  about  two  thousand  feet ;  and,  filling  up  all  the  lower 
space,  was  a  sheet  of  green  water,  some  twenty  miles  broad.  It  broke  upon 
our  eyes  like  the  ocean.  The  neighboring  peaks  rose  high  above  us, 
and  we  ascended  one  of  them  to  obtain  a  better  view.  The  waves  were 
curling  in  the  breeze,  and  their  dark-green  color  showed  it  to  be  a  body  of 
deep  water.  For  a  long  time  we  sat  enjoying  the  view,  for  we  had  become 
fatigued  with  mountains,  and  the  free  expanse  of  moving  waves  w  as  very 
grateful.  It  was  set  like  a  gem  in  the  mountains,  which,  from  our  position, 
seemed  to  enclose  it  almost  entirely.  At  the  western  end  it  communicated 
with  the  line  of  basins  we  had  left  a  few  days  since;  and  on  the  opposite 
side  it  swept  a  ridge  of  snowy  mountains,  the  foot  of  the  great  Sierra.  Its 
position  atfirst  inclined  us  to  believe  it  Mary's  lake,  but  the  rugged  moun- 
tains were  so  entirely  discordant  with  descriptions  of  its  low  rushy  shores 
and  open  country,  that  we  concluded  it  some  unknown  body  of  water ; 
which  it  afterwards  proved  to  be. 

On  our  road  down,  the  next  day,  we  saw  herds  of  mountain  sheep,  and 
encamped  on  a  little  stream  at  the  mouth  of  the  defile,  about  a  mile  from 
the  margin  of  the  water,  to  which  we  hurried  down  immediately.  The 
water  is  so  slightly  salt,  that,  at  first,  we  thought  it  fresh,  and  would  be 
pleasant  to  drink  when  no  other  could  be  had.  The  shore  was  rocky — a 
handsome  beach,  which  reminded  us  of  the  sea.  On  some  large  granite 
houlders  that  were  scattered  about  the  shore,  I  remarked  a  coating  of  a 
calcareous  substance,  in  some  places  a  few  inches  and  in  others  a  foot  in 
thickness.     Near  our  camp,  the  hills,  which  were  of  primitive  rock,  were 


[1844v    '■   1644.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


201 


e  valley, 
kod  scat- 
ts  of  the 
:it  sunsety 
Q  in  good 
used, 
he  day  in 
s  distant, 
als  were 
to  recruit 
like  wild 
lear. 

he  shrubs 
fterwards 
ore  occu- 
arson  and 
1  encamp- 

»g  a  south 
alter.  On 
•  encamp- 
hollow  of 
)ch  grass, 
ay  up  the 
ollow  was 
[0  about  a 
kiountains 
he  lower 
oke  upon 
iove  us, 
ves  were 
a  body  of 
d  become 
was  very 
position, 
nunicated 
opposite 
erra.     Us 
ed  moun- 
ly  shores 
jf  water ; 

leep,  and 
mile  from 
ly.  The 
would  be 
rocky — a 
e  granite 
iting  of  a 
a  foot  in 
3ck,  were 


also  covered  with  this  substance,  which  was  in  too  great  quantity  on  the 
mountains  along  the  shore  of  the  lake  to  have  been  deposited  by  water, 
and  has  the  appearance  of  having  been  spread  over  the  rocks  in  mass.* 

Where  we  had  halted,  appeared  to  be  a  favorite  camping  place  for  In- 
dians. 

January  13. — We  followed  again  a  broad  Indian  trail  along  the  shore  of 
the  lake  to  the  southward.  For  a  short  space  we  had  room  enough  in  the 
bottom ;  but,  after  travelling  a  short  distance,  the  water  swept  the  foot  of 
precipitous  mountains,  the  peaks  of  which  are  about  3,000  feet  above  the 
lake.  The  trail  wound  along  the  base  of  these  precipices,  against  which 
the  water  dashed  below,  by  a  way  nearly  impracticable  for  the  howitzer. 
During  a  greater  part  of  the  morning  the  lake  was  nearly  hid  by  a  snow 
storm,  and  the  waves  broke  on  the  narrow  beach  in  a  long  line  of  foaming 
surf,  five  or  six  feet  high.  The  day  was  unpleasantly  cold,  the  wind  driv- 
ing the  snow  sharp  against  our  faces  ;  and,  having  advanced  only  about  12 
miles,  we  encamped  in  a  bottom  formed  by  a  ravine,  covered  with  good 
grass,  which  was  fresh  and  green. 

W^e  did  not  get  the  howitzer  into  camp,  but  were  obliged  to  leave  it  on 
the  rocks  until  morning.  We  saw  several  flocks  of  sheep,  but  did  not  suc- 
ceed in  killing  any.  Ducks  weie  riding  on  the  waves,  and  sev.eral  large 
fish  were  seen.  The  mountain  sides  were  crusted  with  the  calcareous 
cement  previously  mentioned.  There  were  chenopodiaceous  and  other 
shrubs  along  the  beach ;  and,  at  the  foot  of  the  rocks,  an  abundance  of 
ephedra  occidentalism  whose  dark-green  colormakes  them  evergreens  among 
the  shrubby  growth  of  the  lake.  Towards  evening  the  snow  began  to  fall 
heavily,  and  the  country  had  a  wintry  appearance. 

The  next  morning  the  snow  was  rapidly  melting  under  a  warm  sun. 
Part  of  the  morning  was  occupied  in  bringing  up  the  gun  ;  and,  making 
only  nine  miles,  we  encamped  on  the  shore, opposite  a  very  remarkable  rock 
in  the  lake,  which  had  attracted  our  attention  for  many  miles.  It  rose,  ac- 
cording to  our  estimate,  GOO  feet  above  the  water  ;  and,  from  the  point  we 
viewed  it,  presented  a  pretty  exact  outline  of  the  great  pyramid  of  Cheops. 
Like  other  rocks  along  the  shore,  it  seemed  to  be  incrusted  with  cal- 
careous cement.  This  striking  feature  suggested  a  name  for  the  lake ; 
and  I  called  it  Pyramid  lake  ;  and  though  it  may  be  deemed  by  some  a 
fanciful  resemblance,  I  can  undertake  to  say  that  the  future  t.  aveller  will 
find  much  more  striking  resemblance  between  this  rock  and  the  pyramids 
of  Egypt,  than  there  is  between  them  and  the  object  from  which  they 
take  their  name. 

The  elevation  of  this  lake  above  the  sea  is  4,890  feet,  being  nearly  700 
feet  higher  than  the  Great  Salt  lake,  from  which  it  lies  nearly  west,  and 
distant  about  eight  degrees  of  longitude.     The  position  and  elevation  of  this 


*  The  label  attached  to  a  specimen  of  this  rock  was  lost ;  but  I  appenJ  an  analysis  of  that  which, 
from  memory,  I  judge  to  be  the  specimen. 

Carbonate  of  lime              .-_---..  77.31 

('arbonate  of  magnesia       -             -             -             -             -             -             -              -  5-25 

Oxide  of  iron        -            -            -            -             -            -            -            -            -  \.GQ 

Alumina                ..__.-^.-  1.06 

Silica        ..-.-.----  8.55 

Organic  matter,  water,  and  loss      -            -            -            -             -            •■            -  6.24 

100.00 


^•iir 


xm 


2o; 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NAIUJATIVE 


[1844.    ■  1844.1 


lake  mako  it  an  object  of  geographical  interest.  It  is  the  nearest  lake  to 
the  western  rim,  as  the  (ireat  Salt  hike  is  to  the  eastern  rim,  of  the  (Jrcat 
Basin  which  lies  between  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains  and  the  Sierra 
Nevada  ;  and  the  extent  and  character  of  which,  its  whole  circuinferen 
and  contcMits,  it  is  so  desirable  to  know. 


ce 


The  last  of  the  cattle  which  had  been  (hivon  from  the  Dalles  was  kill 


0(1 


here  for  food,  and  was  still  in  good  condition. 


Jam 


»de  th( 


thi 


itiarij  IJ. — A  lew  poorlooUing  Indians  made  their  appearaneo  iins 
morning,  and  we  succeeded  in  getting  one  into  the  camp.  He  was  naked, 
with  the  exce|)tion  of  a  tunic  of  hare  sUins.  He  told  us  that  there  was  a 
river  at  the  end  of  the  lake,  but  that  he  lived  in  the  rocks  near  by.  From 
the  few  words  our  people  could  understand,  he  spoke  a  dialect  of  the  Snako 
language ;  but  we  were  not  able  to  understand  enough  to  know  whether 
the  river  ran  in  or  out,  or  what  was  its  course  ;  consequently,  there  still 
rentiaiiicd  a  chance  that  this  might  bo  Mary's  hdce. 

Groves  of  large  cottonwood,  which  we  could  see  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  indicated  that  it  was  a  stream  of  considerable  size  ;  and,  at  all  events, 
we  had  the  pleasure  to  know  (hat  now  we  wore  in  a  country  where  human 
beings  could  live.  Accompanied  by  the  Indian,  we  resumed  our  road,  pass- 
ing on  the  way  several  caves  in  the  rock  where  there  were  baskets  and 
seeds  ;  bilt  the  people  had  disappeared.  We  saw  al;  o  horse  tracks  along 
the  shore. 

Early  in  the  afternoon,  when  we  were  approaching  the  groves  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  three  or  four  Indians  met  us  on  the  trail.  We  had  an 
explanatory  conversation  in  signs,  and  then  moved  on  together  towards  the 
village,  which  the  chief  said  was  encamped  on  the  bottom. 

Reaching  the  groves,  we  found  the  inlcl  of  a  large  fresh-water  stream, 
and  all  at  once  were  satisfied  that  it  was  neither  Mary's  river  nor  the 
waters  of  the  Sacramento,  but  that  we  had  discovered  a  large  interior  lake, 
which  the  Indians  informed  us  had  no  outlet.  It  is  about  35  miles  long ; 
and,  by  the  mark  of  the  water  line  along  the  shores,  the  spring  level  is  about 
12  feet  above  its  present  waters.  The  chief  commenced  speaking  in  a  loud 
voice  as  we  approached  ;  and  parties  of  Indians  armed  with  bows  and  ar- 
rows issued  from  the  thickets.  W^e  selected  a  strong  place  for  our  encamp- 
ment— a  grassy  bottom,  nearly  enclosed  by  the  river,  and  furnished  with 
abundant  fire  wood.  The  village,  a  collection  of  straw  huts,  was  a  few 
hundred  yaids  higher  up.  An  Indian  brought  in  a  large  fish  to  trade, 
which  we  had  the  inexpressible  satisfaction  to  find  was  a  salmon  trout ;  we 
gathered  round  him  eagerly.  The  Indians  were  amused  with  our  delight, 
and  immediately  brought  in  numbers  ;  so  that  the  camp  was  soon  stocked. 
Their  flavor  was  excellent — superior,  in  fact,  to  that  of  any  fish  I  have  ever 
known.  They  were  of  extraordinary  size — about  as  large  as  the  Columbia 
river  salmon — generally  from  two  to  four  feet  in  length.  From  the  infor- 
mation of  Mr.  Walker,  who  passed  among  some  lakes  lying  more  to  the 
eastward,  this  fish  is  common  to  the  streams  of  the  inland  lakes.  He  sub- 
sequently informed  me  that  he  had  obtained  them  weighing  six  pounds 
when  cleaned  and  the  head  taken  otl';  which  corresponds  very  well  with 
the  size  of  those  obtained  at  this  place.  They  doubtless  formed  the  subsist- 
ence of  these  people,  who  hold  the  fishery  in  exclusive  possession. 

I  remarked  that  one  of  them  gave  a  fish  to  the  Indian  we  had  first  seen, 
which  he  carried  off  to  his  family.  To  them  it  was  probably  a  feast ;  being 
of  the  Digger  tribe,  and  having  no  share  in  the  fishery,  living  generally  on 


seeds 

not  ye 

they  a 

to  live 

was  c( 

made 

that  th 

guards 

the  pe 

There 

conduc 

Intl 

on  in  ( 

pared- 

and  ev 

fresh  o 

be  cer 

had,  as 

articles 

inform: 

of  the  1 

raounta 

beyond 

of  whi( 

alludecJ 

cd  Stat 

ward,  .' 

I  trie 

days  on 

The 

of  the  i 

Janu 

tiful  str 

trails  le 

eottonw 

along  tl 

with  sn< 

number 

having 

on  the  I 

Janui 

Qountai 

Buenav 

reached 

only  on 

to  him  a 

We  folh 

sage  bui 

stream, 

but  runr 

On  th 

ran  up  t 


(JAl'T.  FFIEMONTVS  NAKUATIVK. 


203 


seeds  and  ruots.  Alllioiif;li  this  wnsn  time  ot'  the  year  when  the  fish  hnvo 
not  }el  bi'conu!  (al,  tluy  \v«  re  ex<'o!l<'!it,  and  we  could  only  imagine  what 
they  are  at  the  proper  season.  'J'hese  Indians  were  very  lat,  and  appeared 
to  live  an  easy  and  happy  life.  They  crowded  info  the  camp  more  than 
was  consistent  with  our  safety,  retaining  always  their  arms;  and,  as  they 
as  killed  |  made  some  unsatisfactory  demonstrafions,  ihey  were  given  to  understand 
that  they  would  not  t)(>  permitted  to  come  armed  into  the  camp  ;  and  strong 
guards  were  kepi  with  the  horses.  Strict  vigilance  was  maintained  among 
the  people,  and  onc-tliird  at  a  time  were  kept  ou  guard  during  the  night. 
There  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  these  disposiiioti.s,  uniformly  preserved, 
conducted  our  paily  pecinely  through  Indians  famed  for  treachery. 

In  the  niCiin  time,  such  a  salmon-trout  feast  as  is  seldom  seen  was  going 
on  in  our  camp ;  and  every  variety  of  manner  in  which  fish  could  be  pre- 
pared— boiled,  fried,  and  roasted  in  the  ashes — was  put  into  requisition  ; 
and  every  few  nvinutes  an  Indian  would  be  seen  running  oft'  to  spear  a 
fresh  one.  Whether  these  Indians  had  seen  whites  before,  v/e  could  not 
be  certain ;  but  they  weie  evidently  in  communication  with  others  who 
had,  as  one  of  them  ha  i  some  brass  buttons,,  and  we  noticed  several  other 
articles  of  civilized  manufacture.  We  could  of)tain  from  them  but  little 
information  respecting  the  country.  They  made  on  the  ground  a  drawing 
of  the  river,  which  they  represented  as  issuing  from  another  lake  in  the 
mountains  three  or  four  days  distant,  in  a  direction  a  little  west  of  south ; 
beyond  which,  they  drew  a  mountain  ;  and  further  still,  two  rivers  ;  on  one 
of  which  they  told  us  that  people  like  ourselves  travelled.  Whether  they 
alluded  to  the  settlements  on  the  Sacramento,  or  to  a  party  from  the  Unit- 
ed States  which  had  crossed  the  Sierra  about  three  degrees  to  the  south- 
ward, a  few  years  since,  I  am  unable  to  determine. 

I  tried  unsuccesafully  to  prevail  on  spn)e  of  them  to  guide  us  for  a  few 
days  on  the  road,  but  they  only  looked  at  each  other  and  laughed. 

The  latitude  of  our  encampment,  which  may  be  considered  the  mouth 
of  the  inlet,  is  39°  51'  13"  by  our  observations. 

January  16. — This  morning  we  continued  our  journey  along  this  beau- 
tiful stream,  which  we  naturally  called  the  Salmon  Trout  river.  Large 
trails  led  up  on  either  side  ;  the  stream  was  handsomely  timbered  with  large 
cottonwoods  ;  and  the  waters  were  very  cleai*  and  pure.  We  were  travelling 
along  the  mountains  of  the  great  Sierra,  which  rose  on  our  right,  covered 
with  snow  ;  but  below  the  temperature  w'as  mild  and  pleasant.  We  saw  a 
number  of  dams  which  the  Indians  had  constructed  to  catch  fish.  After 
having  made  about  IS  miles,  we  encamped  under  some  large  cottonwoods 
on  the  river  bottom,  where  there  was  tolerably  good  grass. 

January  17. — This  morning  we  left  the  river,  which  here  issues  from  the 
mountains  '^•n  the  west.  With  every  stream  I  now  expected  to  see  the  great 
Buenaventura ;  and  Carson  hurried  eagerly  to  search,  on  every  one  we 
reached,  for  beaver  cuttings,  which  he  always  maintained  we  should  find 
only  on  waters  that  ran  to  the  Pacific ;  and  the  absence  of  such  signs  was 
to  him  a  sure  indication  that  the  water  had  no  outlet  from  the  great  basin. 
We  followed  the  Indian  trail  through  a  tolerably  level  country,  with  small 
sage  bushes,  which  brought  us,  after  20  miles  journey,  to  another  large 
stream,  timbered  with  cottonvvood,  and  flowing  also  out  of  the  mountains, 
but  running  more  directly  to  the  eastward. 

On  the  way  we  surprised  a  family  of  Indians  in  the  hills ;  but  the  man 
ran  up  the  mountain  with  rapidity ;  and  the  woman  was  so  terrified,  and 


anee  this 
IS  naked, 
ire  was  a 
From 
he  vSnakc 
whether 
here  still 

ith  of  the 
II  events, 
re  human 
oad,paS9- 
skets  and 
cks  along 

ires  at  the 
^e  had  an 
wards  the 

fer  stream, 
r  nor  the 

ior  lake, 

les  long ; 

el  is  about 

in  a  loud 
rs  and  ar- 

encamp- 
3hed  with 
ivas  a  few 

to  trade, 
trout ;  we 
ir  delight, 

stocked. 
Iiave  ever 
Columbia 
the  infor- 
Dre  to  the 
He  sub- 
IX  pounds 
well  with 
le  subsist- 
)n. 

first  seen, 
ist ;  being 
nerally  on 


204 


OAPT.  FREMONrs  NARRATIVR. 


fl844. 


kept  up  such  a  continuod  screaming,  that  wc  rouhi  do  notliing  with  her, 
and  were  obliged  to  let  her  fz;o. 

January  18. — There  were  Indian  lodges  and  fish  dams  on  tlie  stream. 
There  were  no  beaver  ciittinjjs  on  the  river;  but  below,  it  turned  round 
to  the  right ;  and,  hoping  (hat  it  would  prove  a  branch  of  the  IJuenaventura, 
we  followed  it  down  for  about  Ihreo  hours,  and  encamped. 

I  rode  out  with  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and  Carson  to  reconnoitre  the  country, 
which  had  evidently  been  alarmed  by  the  news  of  our  appearance.  This 
stream  joined  with  the  open  valley  of  another  to  the  eastward  ;  but  which 
way  the  main  water  ran,  it  was  impossible  to  tell.  Columns  of  smoke  rose 
over  the  country  at  scattered  intervals — signals  by  which  the  Indians  here, 
as  elsewhere,  communicate  to  each  other  that  enemies  are  in  the  country. 
It  is  a  signal  of  ancient  and  very  universal  application  among  barbarians. 

Examining  into  the  condition  of  the  animals  when  I  returned  into  the 
camp,  1  found  their  feet  so  much  cut  up  by  the  rocks,  and  so  many  of 
them  lame,  that  it  was  evidently  impossible  that  they  could  cross  the  coun- 
try to  the  Rocky  mountains.  Every  piece  of  iron  that  could  be  used  for  the 
purpose  had  been  converted  into  nails,  and  we  could  make  no  further  use 
of  the  shoes  we  had  remaining.  1  therefore  determined  to  abandon  my 
eastern  course,  and  to  cross  the  Sierra  Nevada  into  the  valley  of  the  Sacra- 
mento, wherever  a  practicable  pass  could  be  found.  My  decision  was  heard 
with  joy  by  the  people,  and  dilfused  new  life  throughout  the  camp. 

Latitude,  by  observation,  ^'d""  24'  16". 

January  19. — A  great  number  of  smokes  are  still  visible  this  morning, 
attesting  at  once  the  alarm  which  our  appearance  had  spread  among  these 
people,  and  their  ignorance  ol  us.  If  they  knew  the  whites,  they  would 
understand  ♦hat  their  only  object  incoming  among  them  was  to  trade,  which 
required  peace  and  friendship ;  but  they  have  nothing  to  trade — conse- 
quently, nothing  to  attract  the  white  man  ;  hence  their  fear  and  flight. 

At  daybreak  we  had  a  heavy  snow ;  but  sat  out,  and,  returning  up  the 
stream,  went  out  of  our  way  in  a  circuit  over  a  little  mountain  ;  and  en- 
camped on  the  same  stream,  a  few  miles  above,  in  latitude  39°  19'  21"  by 
observation. 

January  20. — To-day  we  continued  up  the  stream,  and  encamped  on  it 
close  to  the  mountains.  The  freshly  fallen  snow  was  covered  with  the 
tracks  of  Indians,  who  had  descended  from  the  upper  waters,  probably 
called  down  by  the  smokes  in  tho  plain. 

We  ascended  a  peak  of  the  range,  svhich  commanded  a  view  of  this  stream 
behind  the  first  ridge,  where  it  was  winding  its  course  through  a  somewhat 
open  valley,  and  I  sometimes  regret  that  I  did  not  make  the  trial  to  cross 
here  ;  but  while  we  had  fair  weather  below,  the  mountains  were  darkened 
with  falling  snow,  and,  feeling  unwilling  to  encounter  them,  we  turned 
away  again  to  the  southward.  In  that  direction  we  travelled  the  next  day 
over  a  tolerably  level  country,  having  always  the  high  mountains  on  the 
west.  There  was  but  little  snow  or  rock  on  the  ground  ;  and,  after  having 
travelled  24  miles,  we  encamped  again  on  another  large  stream,  running 
off  to  the  northward  and  eastward,  to  meet  that  we  had  left.  It  ran  through 
broad  bottoms,  having  a  fine  meadow-land  appearance. 

Latitude  39°  01'  53'. 

January  22. — We  travelled  up  the  stream  for  about  14  miles  to  the  foot 
of  the  mountains,  from  which  one  branch  issued  in  the  southwest,  the 
other  flowing  from  SSE.  along  their  base.     Leaving  the  camp  below, 


[1844. 
;  with  her, 

»e  stream, 
ncd  round 
naventura, 

e  country, 
lice.    This 

but  which 
?mokG  rose 
[lians  here, 
JO  country, 
arharians. 
d  into  the 
o  many  ot 
is  the  coun- 
jsed  for  the 
further  use 
bandon  my 

the  Sacra- 
\  was  heard 
amp. 

is  morning, 
mong  these 
they  would 
rade,  which 
de — eonse- 
flight. 
ing  up  the 
and  en- 
19  21"  by 

unped  on  it 
d  with  the 
probably 

this  stream 
somewhat 
ial  to  cross 
darkened 
we  turned 
le  next  day 
iins  on  the 
fter  having 
m,  running 
ran  through 


to  the  foot 
thwest,  the 
mp  below, 


1S44.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NAKHATIVE. 


205 


we  ascended  the  nmge  through  which  the  first  stream  passed,  in  a  cafion  ; 
on  the  western  side  was  a  circuhu*  valley,  about  15  miles  long,  through 
which  the  .stream  wound  its  way,  issuing  horn  a  gorge  in  the  main  moun- 
tain, which  rose  abruptly  beyond.  Tho  valley  looked  yellow  with  faded 
grass  ;  and  the  trail  we  bad  followed  was  visible,  making  towards  the  gorge, 
and  this  was  evidently  a  pass  ;  but  again,  while  all  was  bright  sunshine  on 
the  ridge  and  oti  the  valley  where  we  were,  the  snow  was  falling  heavily 
in  the  mountains.  1  determined  to  go  still  to  the  southward,  and  encamp- 
ed  on  the  stream  near  the  forks  ;  the  animals  being  fatigued  and  the 
grass  tolerably  good. 

The  rock  of  the  ridge  we  had  ascended  is  a  compact  lava,  assuming  a 
granitic  appearance  and  structure,  and  (ontaining,  in  some  places,  small 
nodules  of  obs^idian.  So  far  as  composition  and  aspect  are  concerned,  the 
rock  in  other  parts  of  the  ridge  appears  to  be  granite  ;  but  it  is  probable 
that  this  is  only  a  compact  form  of  lava  of  recent  origin. 

By  observation,  the  elevation  of  the  encampment  was  5,020  feet  ;  and 
the  latitude  38"  49  51'  . 

January  23. — We  moved  along  the  coursio  of  the  other  branch  towards 
the  southeast,  the  country  affording  a  fine  road  ;  and,  passing  .some  slight 
dividing  grounds,  descended  towards  ihc  valley  of  another  stream.  There 
was  a  somewhat  rough-looking  mountain  ahead,  which  it  appeared  to  issue 
from,  or  to  enter — we  could  not  tell  which  ;  and  as  the  course  of  the  valley 
and  the  inclination  of  the  ground  had  a  favorable  direction,  we  were 
sanguine  to  find  here  a  brancli  of  the  Buenaventura  ;  but  were  again  dis- 
appointed, finding  it  an  inland  water,  on  which  we  encamped  after  a  day's 
journey  of  21  miles.  It  was  evident  that,  from  the  time  we  descended  into 
the  plain  at  .Summer  lake,  we  had  been  Hanking  the  great  range  of  moun- 
tains which  divided  the  Great  Basin  from  the  wafers  of  the  Pacific ;  and 
that  the  continued  succession,  and  almost  connexion,  of  lakes  and  rivers 
which  we  encounteiecJ,  were  the  drainingsof  that  range.  Itsrains,  springs, 
and  snows,  would  sufVicienlly  account  for  these  lakes  and  streams,  numer- 
ous as  they  were. 

January  24. — A  man  was  discovered  running  towards  the  camp  as  we 
were  about  to  stai  t  this  morning,  who  pioved  to  be  an  Indian  of  rather  ad- 
vanced age — a  sort  of  foilorn  hope,  who  seemed  to  have  been  worked  up 
into  the  resolution  of  visiting  the  strangers  who  were  passing  through  the 
country.  He  seized  the  hand  of  the  first  man  he  met  as  he  came  up,  out 
of  breath,  and  held  on,  as  if  to  assure  himself  of  protection,  He  brought 
with  him  in  a  little  skin  bag  a  few  pounds  of  the  seeds  of  a  pine  tree,  which 
to-day  we  saw  lor  the  first  time,  and  which  Ur.  Torrey  has  described  as  a 
new  species,  under  the  name  ol' pinus  monophyllus ;  in  popular  language^ 
it  might  bo  culled  the  nut  pine.  VVe  purchased  them  all  from  him.  The 
nut  is  oily,  of  very  agreeable  flavor,  and  must  be  very  nutritious,  as  it 
constitutes  the  principal  subsistence  of  the  tribes  among  which  we  were  now 
travelling.  By  a  present  of  scarlet  cloth,  and  other  striking  articles,  we 
prevailed  upon  this  man  to  be  our  guide  of  two  days'  journey.  As  clearly 
as  possible  by  signs,  we  made  him  understand  our  object ;  and  he  engaged 
to  conduct  us  in  sight  of  a  good  pass  which  he  knew.  Here  we  ceased  to 
hear  the  Shoshonee  language  ;  that  of  this  man  being  perfectly  unintelli- 
gible. Several  Indians,  who  had  been  waiting  to  see  what  reception  he 
would  meet  with,  now  came  into  camp;  and,  accompanied  by  the  new 
coiners,  we  resumed  our  journey. 


•-•if' 

J-V. 


■■if" 


206 


f;AI"r.  FKKMONTfl  NARRATIVE. 


[1844. 


The  road  led  us  up  (lie  crook,  which  here  hecoincs  a  rathor  rapid  moun- 
tain stream,  filty  feet  wide,  holween  dnrk-louking  hills  without  snow  ;  hut 
iniinediately  hcyond  thoin  rose  snowy  mountains  on  oitlici  side,  timhered 
principally  with  the  nut  piru;.  On  the  lower  ^tounds,  (ho  ^onoral  height 
of  this  tree  is  twelve  to  (wcnfy  loci,  and  eight  inches  (ho  groiKcst  dianietcr ; 
it  is  rather  hranching,  itnd  has  a  peculiar  and  singular  hut  pleasant  odor. 
We  I'ollowed  the  river  lor  only  a  short  distance  along  a  rocky  trail,  and 
crossed  it  at  a  dam  which  (he  Indians  made  us  compteliond  had  heen  huilt 
to  catch  salmon  trout.  The  miow  arul  ice  were  heaped  uj)  against  it  three 
or  four  feel  deep  <!ntirely  across  the  stream. 

Leaving  here  the  sdeam,  which  rims  (hrough  impassahle  cauons,  we  con- 
tinued our  road  over  aveiy  hrokon  country,  passing  through  a  low  gap  be- 
tween the  snowy  njountains.  The  rock  which  occuis  immediately  in  the 
pass  has  the  appearance;  of  inijiuro  sandstone,  containing  scales  of  black 
mica.  This  may  be  only  a  istratificd  lava  ;  on  issuing  from  (he  gap,  the 
compact  lava,  and  other  volcanic  j)roducts  usual  in  the  countiy,  again  oc- 
curred. We  descended  from  (he  gap  into  a  wide  valley, or  lalhor  basin,  and 
encamped  on  a  small  tributary  to  the  last  stream,  on  wliicli  there  was  very 
good  grass.  It  was  coveied  with  such  thick  ice,  that  it  recpiircd  some  labor 
with  pickaxes  to  make  holes  lor  the  animals  to  dritdc.  The  banks  are 
lightly  wooded  with  willow,  and  on  the  upper  bottoms  arc  sage  and  Fre- 
montia  with  ephedra  occidenlalis,  which  begins  to  occur  more  frequently. 
The  day  has  been  a  summer  one,  warm  and  pleasant ;  no  snow  on  the  (rail, 
Avhich,  as  we  are  all  on  foot,  makes  (ravelling  nuu  e  agreeable.  The  Inint- 
ers  went  into  the  neighboring  mountains,  but  found  no  game.  We  have 
five  Indians  in  camp  to-night. 

January  25. — 'liie  morning  was  cold  and  bright,  and  as  the  sun  rose  the 
day  became  beautiful.  A  party  of  twelve  Indians  came  down  froni  the 
mountains  to  trade  pine  nuis,  of  which  each  one  carried  a  little  biig.  These 
seemed  now  to  be  the  staple  of  the  country  ;  and  whenever  we  met  an  In- 
dian, his  friendly  salutation  consisted  in  oftering  a  lew  nuts  to  eat  and  to 
trade  ;  their  only  arms  were  bows  and  flint-pointed  arrows.  It  appeared 
that,  in  almost  all  the  valleys,  the  neighboring  bands  were  at  wai  with  each 
other  ;  and  we  had  some  dilfieulty  in  prevailing  on  our  guides  to  accompany 
us  on  this  day's  journey,  being  at  war  with  the  people  on  the  other  side 
of  a  large  snowy  mountain  which  lay  before  us. 

The  general  level  of  ihe  country  appeared  to  be  getting  higher,  and  we 
were  gradually  entering  the  heart  of  the  mountains.  Accompanied  by  all 
the  Indians,  we  ascended  a  long  ridge,  and  reached  a  pure  spring  at  the 
edge  of  the  timber,  where  (he  Intlianshad  waylaid  and  liilled  an  an(elope, 
and  where  the  greater  part  of  ihem  left  us.  Our  pacific  conduct  had  quieted 
their  alarms  ;  and  though  at  war  among  each  other,  yet  all  confided  in  us. 
Thanks  to  the  combined  etl'ects  of  power  and  kindness — for  our  arms  in- 
spired respect,  and  our  little  presents  and  good  treatment  conciliated  their 
confidence.  Here  we  suddenly  entered  snow  six  inches  deep,  and  the 
ground  was  a  little  rocky  with  volcanic  fragments,  the  mountain  appearing 
to  be  composed  of  such  rock.  The  timber  consists  principally  of  nut  pines, 
{pinus  monophyllus,)  which  here  are  of  larger  size — 12  to  15  inches  in 
diameter;  heaps  of  cones  lying  on  the  ground,  where  the  Indians  have 
gathered  the  seeds. 

The  snow  deepened  gradually  as  we  advanced.  Our  guides  wore  out 
their  moccasins;  and,  putting  one  of  them  on  a  horse,  we  enjoyed  the  unusual 


[1844* 

pi(]  motin* 
snow  ;  but 
,  timhorod 
>ral  height 
<lininotei  ; 
»sant  odor, 
trail,  and 
been  huilt 
nst  it  three 

ns,  wc  con- 
)W  gap  be- 
itcly  in  the 
['S  of  black 
le  gap,  the 
,  again  oc- 
1  basin,  and 
o  was  very 
some  labor 
»  banks  are 
3  and  Frc- 
IVeqiicntly. 
311  the  trail, 
The  Inint- 
VVe  have 

iiin  rose  the 

n  from  the 

Dii;.     These 

met  an  In- 

eat  and  to 

appeared 

with  each 

accompany 

other  side 

cr,  and  we 
nied  by  all 
ing  at  the 
n  antelope, 
ad  quieted 
ided  in  us. 
ir  arms  in- 
iated  their 
p,  and  the 
appearing 
nut  pines, 
inches  in 
dians  have 

9  wore  out 
he  unusual 


1844.] 


(Arr.  niKMONT'H  narrative. 


'.'07 


sight  of  an  Indian  who  could  not  ride.  Tie  could  not  even  guide  the  ani- 
mal, and  appeared  to  have  no  knowledge  of  horses.  The  snow  was  three 
or  four  feet  deep  in  the  summit  of  the  pass;  and  from  tbis  point  the  guide 

fiointed  out  our  future  road,  dec  lining  to  go  any  further,     liclow  us  was  a 
ittle  valley;  and  beyond  this,  (he  mountains  rose  higher  Mill,  one  ridgo 
above  another,  presenting  a  rude  and  rocky  outline.     We  deseended  rap 
idly  to  the  valley  ;  (he  snow  impeded  us  but  little  ;  yet  it  was  dark  when 
wc  reached  the  foot  of  the  uiountaiii. 

The  day  had  been  .so  warm,  that  our  mocca.sins  were  wet  with  iiudting 
snow  ;  but  here,  as  soon  as  the  sun  begins  to  decline,  the  air  gets  .suddenly 
cold,  and  we  had  great  (lilhculty  to  keep  our  feet  f^oiii  freezing-— i*ur  moc- 
casins being  frozen  perfectly  .''till'.  Alter  a  hard  day's  maieb  of  27  miles, 
wc  reached  the  rivei  .some  time;  after  dark,  and  found  the  snow  ubout  a  foot 
deep  on  the  bottom — tlio  river  being  entirely  frozen  over.  We  found 
a  comfortable  camp,  where  there  wcio  dry  willows  abundant,  and  wo  soon 
had  blazing  fires.  A  little  brandy,  which  I  husbanded- with  great  care, 
remained,  and  1  do  not  know  any  medicine  more  salutary,  or  any  drink 
(except  colVee)  more  agreeable,  than  this  in  a  cold  night  alter  a  hard  day's 
march.  Mr.  Preuss  (juostioiicd  whether  the  famed  nect.ir  even  possessed 
so  exquisite  a  llavor.     All  felt  it  to  be  a  reviving  cordial. 

The  next  morning,  when  the  sun  had  not  yet  risen  over  the  mountains, 
the  thermometer  was  i2  below  zero  ;  but  the  sky  was  bright  and  pure,  and 
the  weather  changed  rapidly  into  a  pleasant  day  of  .summer.  I  remained 
encamped,  in  order  to  examine  the  country,  and  allow  the  animals  a  day 
of  rest,  the  grass  being  good  and  abundant  under  the  snow. 

The  river  is  fifty  to  eighty  feet  wide,  with  a  lively  current,  and  very 
clear  water.  It  forked  a  liMle  above  our  camp,  one  of  its  [)ranches  com- 
ing directly  from  the  soiih.  At  its  head  appeared  to  be  a  handsome 
pass;  and  from  the  neighbor  ing  heights  we  could  see,  beyond,  a  compara- 
tively low  and  open  country,  which  was  supposed  to  form  the  valley  of  the 
liuenaventura.  The  other  branch  issued  from  a  nearer  pass,  in  a  direction 
S.  75'  W.,  forking  at  tiie  loot  of  the  mountain,  and  receiving  part  of  its 
waters  from  a  little  lake,  i  was  in  advance  of  the  camp  when  our  last 
guides  had  left  us  ;  but,  so  far  as  could  be  understood,  this  was  the  pass 
which  they  had  indicatetl,  and,  in  company  witli  Caison,  to-day  I  set  out 
to  explore  it.  Entering  the  range,  wa  continued  in  a  northwesterly  direc- 
tion up  the  valley,  which  here  bent  to  the  right.  It  was  a  pretty,  0})en  bot- 
tom, locked  between  lolty  liiountains,  which  supplied  fietpicnt  streams  as 
wo  advanced.  On  the  lower  part  they  were  covered  with  nut-pine  trees, 
and  above  with  masses  of  pine,  which  we  easily  recognised,  from  the  darker 
color  of  the  foliage.  From  the  fresh  trails  which  occurred  fre(|uently  during 
the  morning,  deer  ap|)eared  to  be  remarkably  numerous  in  the  mountain. 

We  had  now  entiiely  left  tlie  desert  country,  and  were  on  the  verge  of 
a  region  which,  extending  westward  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  abounds 
in  large  game,  and  is  covered  with  a  singular  luxuriance  of  vegetable  life. 

The  little  stream  grew  rapidly  smaller,  and  in  about  twelve  miles  we 
had  reached  its  head,  the  last  water  coming  immediately  out  of  the  moun- 
tain on  the  right;  and  this  spot  was  selected  for  our  next  encampment. 
The  grass  showed  well  in  sunny  places;  but  in  colder  situations  the  snow 
was  deep,  and  began  to  occur  in  banks,  through  which  the  horses  found 
some  difficulty  in  breaking  a  way. 

To  the  left,  the  open  valley  continued  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  with 


K*<!^ 


:f 


p 


■.■k«T 


UU8 


CAPT    FKKMONT'M  NAUHATIVK. 


fl844. 


u  Hcaict'l)  |urro|)lil)lc  uHcont,  t'utiiiiii^  a  licaiitiliil  puss;  the  expluration  of 
wliicli  wc  (U'li'ircd  tiiilil  (he  iiox>  day,  and  irtuiiicd  to  the  caiii|>. 

To  day  )iii  Indian  paHscd  through  (lu!  valU \v,  on  his  way  *n(()  (he  inoiin- 
tniiiH,  wliirc  he  showed  uh  was  hi.s  lod^o.  \V(>  conipichendcd  nothing  ot 
hi.s  language;  and,  (houKh  he  appeared  to  have  no  tear,  passinf^  uU)ni;  ui 
full  view  ot  (he  camp,  he  wan  indi.xpused  to  hohl  any  eoniniunicatiuii  wilh 
Ud,  hu(  .showed  (he  way  he  was  ^ojn^,  and  pointed  loi-  u.s  (u  i;u  un  otii  road 

\\y  olisei  vation,  the*  hilitude  of  this  eneainpnient  was  3H'  lb  01',  and 
the  tdrviition  ahov*'  the  sea  G,.'ilO  I'eet. 

Januiirif  21. —  Leaving  the  camp  to  |'oIh)NV  sh)wly,  with  directions  (<> 
Caison  to  (iic;inipal  the  plnrt^  agreed  on,  Mr.  ril/patriek  und  mysell  eon- 
tinned  (he  rceonnoi.'^saMce.  Arriving  at  thi>  head  ol  the  .stream,  we  heg;ih 
to  eni«  r  (he  pass — pas.sing  oceasionally  (hioiigh  opcMi  groves  of  larjj;c  pine 
trees,  on  the  warm  .side  ul  the  defde,  whir«<  the  snow  had  melted  away, 
occa.sion.dly  exposir)g  a  large  Indian  trail,  i.'ontiniiing  along  a  narro\\ 
mca(h»w,  we  leached  in  a  few  miles  (h(>  gate  of  (ho  pass,  where  (here  wis 
a  narrow  slriji  of  prairie,  ahoul  tW'ly  yards  wide,  IxUween  walls  of  granite 
rock.  On  either  side  rose  the  mountains,  forming  on  the  left  a  rugged 
mass,  or  mickus,  wholly  covered  wilh  deep  snow ,  piesentitjg  u  glitteiim; 
und  icy  suil.ice.  At  the  time,  we  supposed  iliis  to  h(!  the  |)oint  into  which 
they  weie  g;ithereil  between  the  two  great  livers,  and  from  which  the 
waters  ll«)W(tl  olV  to  the  liay.  This  was  the  i(;y  and  cold  side  of  the  pass, 
und  the  rays  of  the  sun  hardly  touched  the  snow.  On  the  left,  the  moun 
tainsiose  into  peaks;  hut  they  were  lower  and  secondary,  and  the  country 
had  a  somewhat  more  open  and  lighter  character.  On  the  right  were  sev- 
eral hot  sf>rihgN,  which  appeared  remarkable  in  such  a  place.  In  goiriy, 
through,  we  felt  impressed  hy  the  majesty  ol  the  mountain,  along  the  huge 
wall  ol  which  we  were  riding.  Ileie  there  was  no  snow;  hut  immedi- 
ately heumd  was  a  deep  hank,  through  which  we  dragged  our  horses  with, 
consider. thie  elfort.  We  then  immediately  struck  upon  a  stream,  which 
gathered  ilscll  rai)idly,  and  descended  quick;  and  the  valley  did  not  pre- 
serve the  opert  character  of  the  other  side,  appearing  below  to  form  a 
canon.  We  iherefore  climbed  one  of  the  peak-^  )n  the  right,  leaving  our 
horses  bt  low  ;  but  we  were  so  much  shut  up,  (hat  we  did  not  obtain  an 
extensive  view,  and  w  hat  we  saw  was  not  very  satisfactory,  and  awakened 
considerable  doubt.  The  valley  of  the  stream  pursued  a  northwesterly 
direction,  appearing  below  to  turn  sharply  to  the  right,  beyond  which  fur- 
ther view  was  cut  off.  It  was,  nevertheless,  resolved  to  continue  our  road 
the  next  day  down  this  valley,  which  we  trusted  still  would  prove  that  of 
the  middle  stream  between  the  two  great  rivers.  Towards  the  summit  of 
this  peak,  the  fields  of  snow  were  four  or  five  feet  deep  on  ihe  northern 
side  ;  ami  we  saw  several  large  hares,  which  had  on  their  winter  color, 
being  white  as  the  snow  around  them. 

The  winter  day  is  short  in  the  mountains,  the  sun  having  but  a  small 
space  ol  sky  to  travel  over  in  the  visible  part  above  our  horizon ;  and  the 
moment  his  rays  are  gone,  the  air  is  keenly  cold.  The  interest  of  our 
work  h.td  detained  us  long,  and  it  was  after  nightfall  when  we  reached 
the  cuiiip. 

Januarx)  2S. — To-day  we  went  through  the  pass  with  all  the  camp,  and, 
after  a  h;ii  d  da^  's  journey  of  twelve  miles,  encamped  on  a  high  point  where 
the  snow  had  been  blown  off.  and  the  exposed  grass  afforded  a  scanty  pas- 
ture lor  the  animals.    Snow  and  broken  country  together  made  our  travel- 


MIOW. 


[1844.   ■  1641  ] 


l-'AI'T.  h'KRMONT'M  .NAHI{\TIVf: 


20?» 


uration  of  ^  ling  diOieult  :  Wf>  were  oltcti  ('otn|K>lliMl  to  iiiiikn  inrgc  ciniiiis,  .ind  ascend 
llic  highest  :ii)d  innst  i'x|)osi'd  iid^cs,  jri  ordrr  to  avoid  ititow,  wliicli  in 
otlirr  placoN  was  liatiktd  ii|>  lo  a  ^rrat  dcjitli. 

During  thv  d;iy  a  lew  Indians  wno  simmi  circdin;;  aroiiml  mm  on  unow 
sliooH,  and  Mkiniinini;  .'ilon,:;  tike  Idrds  ;  lint  \v(!  could  not  liiin^  llicrn  with- 
in N|>('akin<;  dist  incc  (iodry,  who  was  a  lillh'  distamc  lioin  the  ;'aMi|>,  had 
sat  (h)wn  to  lie  hin  iiioccasiiis,  when  he  heard  a  hiw  whisth;  tirar,  and,  h)ok« 
in^;  up,  saw  two  Indians  hall  hiditi'.,'  h<diind  a  rock  ahoiit  (orfy  yards  «listat>t  ; 
dicy  wonid  not  allow  him  to  apj'ioach,  hut,  hroakint;  into  a  Jaii^h,  skitniiuMl 
I'll  over  tho  snow,  sn-niitifj;  to  liavj*  no  idea  oC  tin;  powci  ol  (irr  arms,  and 
dunking  thorns*  Ives  perfectly  sale  wherr  heyorul  aim's  leoijlh. 

To-nii^ht  we  did  not  succeed  in  ;i(>ttiri^  the  howit/er  into  carnp.  This 
was  the  most  hhorions  dav  ue  had  yet  passed  ihionnh  ;  the  ^leep  ascents 
Old  (h'ep  snow  e\h:iiistiri;j;  holli  norn  and  animals.  ( )iii  >in.;le  elinoiometer 
had  stopped  during  the  d  ly,  and  its  error  irr  time  occasioned  Iho  Ions  of  an 
((lipse  ol"  a  sa((dlite  liiis  evening.  It  had  not  pieH<'rv(;(l  the  rate  with 
which  wo  started  from  the  Dalles,  and  this  will  account  lor  the  ahscncc 
III  lon<;itudes  alon<r  this  inter  v. d  oT  our  journey. 

January  JO. — I'ldm  lliHlipi':ht  we  could  scie,  at  a  considerahio  distarico 
below,  yellow  spots  in  the  valh'y,  which  indicated  th  it  there  was  not  niiicli 
snow.  One  ol  these*  phices  we  (>xpected  to  I'eacdi  to-iii;dit  ;  and  some  timo 
bning  r«Mpiiredto  hiirrii;  up  the  ^urt,  I  went  .ahead  witii  \\\  I'it/patrick  and 
;i  few  men,  leavini;  the  camp  to  follow,  in  (diar^(»  of  Mi'.  Preuss.  Wo  fol- 
lowed a  trail  down  a  hollow  where  the  Indians  had  descended,  the  snow 
being  so  deep  that  wo  never-  caiiK!  near  the  t^ronnd  ;  hut  this  only  made  our 
iloscent  the  easier,  and,  when  we  reacdied  a  lilth;  allluenf  to  ihe  river  at  the 
bottom,  we  suddenly  roimd  ourselves  in  presence  of  eight  or  (en  Indians. 
They  seemed  to  he  walohiiig  our  motions,  and,  like  the  others,  at  first  were 
indisposed  to  let  us  approa<di,  ranging  th(nnselves  like  hird?  on  a  fallen 
log  on  the  hill  side  ahove  our  heads,  where,  heing  out  of  reach,  they 
thought  themselves  sal*;.  Our  Irienrlly  demeanor-  reconciled  them,  and, 
when  we  got  near'  enough,  ihey  immediately  stretched  out  to  us  handfulls 
of  pine  nuts,  which  seemed  an  exercise  of  hospitality.  We  made  them  a 
lew  presents,  and,  telling  us  that  their  village  was  a  low  nules  below,  they 
went  on  to  let  their  people  know  what  we  were.  The  principal  stream 
still  running  through  an  iuipracticahle  caTion,  we  ascended  ;i  very  steep  hill, 
which  proved  afterwards  the  lost  and  fatal  obstacle  to  our  little  howitzer, 
which  was  finally  ahandoned  at  this  |)lace.  We  passed  throutj;h  a  small 
meadow  a  few  miles  helow,  crossing  the  river,  which  depth,  swilt  current, 
and  rock,  made  it  tlillicult  to  lord  ;  and,  after  a  few  more  miles  of  very  dif- 
licult  trail,  issued  into  a  lai-ger  prairie  bottom,  at  the  farther  end  of  which 
we  encamped,  in  a  position  rendered  strong  by  rocks  and  trees.  The  lower 
parts  of  the  mountain  wore  covered  with  the  nut  pine.  Several  Indians 
appeared  on  the  hill  side,  reconnoitring  the  camp,  and  were  induced  to 
come  in  ;  others  came  in  during  the  afternoon  •  and  in  the  evening  we  held 
a  council.  The  Indians  immediately  made  it  cle-.r  that  the  waters  on  which 
we  were  also  belong  to  the  Great  Basin,  ir.  the  eflge  of  which  we  had 
bf'cn  since  the  17th  of  Docoinhcr;  and  it  became  evident  that  we  had  still 
tiie  2;reat  ridge  on  the  left  to  cross  before  we  could  reach  the  Pacific  waters. 

We  explained  to  the  Indians  that  we  were  endeavoring  to  find  a  passage 
across  the  mountains  into  the  country  of  the  whites,  whom  wo  were  going 
lO  see  ;  and  told  them  that  we  wished  them  to  bring  us  a  guide,  to  whom  we 
11 


nutions  lo 
ysell  coil- 
we  heg:ii\ 
large  pine 
Ited  aw  a), 
;  a  narroNv 
there  wus 
of  granite 
t  a  niggeil 
1  glittering 
into  which 
which   the 
f  the  pass, 
the  moun 
lie  country 
,  were  sev- 

In  goiiij; 
g  the  huge 
it  imnutdi- 
lorses  with, 
am,  which 
d  not  pre- 

to  form  a 
aving  our 
t  obtain  an 
awakened 
thwesterly 
which  fur- 
e  our  road 
ove  that  of 
summit  of 
6  northern 
iter  color, 

)ut  a  small 
;  and  the 
est  of  oui 
6  reached 

camp,  and, 
sint  where 
icanty  pas- 
ur  travel- 


:ilO 


CAPT.  FKKMOM'rt  NAHUATIVK. 


ri844. 


wudtd  ^ivr  |>rcH('iitH  of  Mcarlil  cludi,  anil  ollivr  ailicles,  which  w«ro  shown 
to  thi'iii.  'Iluy  looked  at  tin*  icwiird  \\rnni>i(>d,aiid  ctirdi'iMMl  with  euch 
oth(!i,  liiii  |)oint)-d  to  the  .nriovv  on  ihf  nioiinlnin,  and  ditiw  tlioir  hand* 
ac'io.H.t  tlt«  ii  nrck.H,  and  iimmimI  llicni  aliovo  tin  ii  Ik  adn,  lo  show  (Ik;  depth; 
and  (i^tiilicd  (hat  it  watt  inl|lo.H^il>k>  (ur  Hit  to  ^ct  through.  The)  niudi* 
siuns  (hat  we  niti'it  go  to  the  .^touthwaid,  ovcti  a  |i.i^s  ihioiigh  u  lower  |-ani;i>, 
wliioh  tliey  iioinlrd  out  ;  tlit  le,  they  s.iid,  ;it  tli*!  end  ol  otii!  da)  N  tr  ivel,  Wt; 
would  lind  |)('o|>lr  who  lived  near  a  pass  in  the  gieat  uiountain  ;  and  lo  thai 
poiii(  they  enga^i.-d  (o  liirniith  un  a  guide.  'I'Ikv  appealed  (o  hnvo  ii  coit. 
iubed  idea,  tioin  icpiui,  ol  whileti  who  lived  on  the  other  Midi*  oi'  the  inouti< 
tain  ;  and  oiiee,  they  (ohi  n-*,  ahoiit  two  years  imo,  a  party  ol  twelve  incii 
like;  ourselves  had  ahcended  their  liver,  and  ero,><.N«'d  to  th(!  other  waters. 
They  pointed  out  to  uh  where  they  hid  eroAsed  ;  hut  then,  they  naid,  it 
was  ^nlnlMel  time  ;  hut  now  it  would  Ix;  iiiipoN*4ilde.  I  helirvo  that  thi-^ 
was  a  pally  hd  Ity  Mi.  (>hileH,  one  ol  the  only  two  n  en  uhoin  I  know  to 
have  pasMtl  through  the  C'alilornia  inountain.s  lioni  tlx.'  inleiior  ol  the  Ha 
iiin — Walker  heing  the  other  ;  and  hoth  were  (  ngaged  upwards  ol  twenty 
day.t,  in  the  Nuinniei  time,  in  getting  over.  ChilesVsdeiitination  was  (he  hay 
ol  San  Friincisro,  to  whieh  he  descended  hy  the  Stani.slau.siivei  ;  and  Walk- 
er  suh»e(pi<>ntly  inloi  ined  me  that,  like  myscll,  de>icending  to  the  southward 
on  a  more  easleiii  line,  day  alter  <lay  he  Wiis  searching  lor  the  Muenaveii- 
turu,  thinking  that  he  had  round  it  with  every  now  strcatu,  until,  like  me, 
he  al>atid(ii)e(l  all  idea  ol  its  exi»tencc,  and,  turning  ahiuptly  to  the  light, 
cro^^ed  the  great  chain.  These  were  hoth  western  men,  animated  witli 
the  spirit  ol  exploratory  enterprise  which  chaiactei  i/es  that  people. 

The  Indians  hiought  in  during  (he  evening  :in  aliundan(  supply  ol' pine 
nuts,  which  wc  traded  Irom  them.  When  roasted,  their  pleasant  tiavor 
■lade  them  an  agieeahlc  addition  to  our  now  scanty  store  of  provibioii!), 
which  were  reduced  to  a  very  low  chh.  Our  principal  stock  was  in  peas, 
which  it  is  not  necessary  to  say  contain  scarciely  any  nutri..  ent.  Wc  had 
still  a  little  llour  lelt,  some  coll'ee,  and  a  cpiantity  of  sugar,  which  1  re- 
served as  a  delence  against  starvation. 

The  Indians  inlormed  us  that  at  certain  seasons  they  have  lish  in  tluir 
watcis,  which  we  supposed  to  he  salmon  trout  ;  for  the  remainder  of  the 
year  they  live  upon  the  pine  nuts,  which  form  their  great  winter  suhsist- 
cnce — a  portion  hcing  always  at  hand,  shut  up  in  the  natural  storehouse 
of  the  cones.  At  present,  they  were  prefecnlcd  to  ns  as  a  whole  people 
living  upon  this  simple  vegetable. 

The  other  division  of  the  party  did  not  come  in  to-night,  but  encamped 
in  the  upper  meadow,  and  arrived  the  next  moining.  They  had  not  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  the  howitzer  beyond  the  place  mentioned,  and  where  it 
had  been  left  by  JMr.  I'reuss  in  obedience  to  my  orders ;  and,  in  anticipation 
of  the  snow  banks  and  snow  fields  still  ahead,  foreseeiig  the  inevitable  de- 
tention to  which  it  would  subject  us,  I  reluctantly  determined  to  leave  il 
there  for  the  time.  It  was  of  the  kind  invented  hy  tlio  French  for  tho 
mountain  part  of  their  war  in  Algiers  ;  and  the  diiti<ncp.  it  had  come  witli 
us  proved  how  well  it  was  adapted  to  its  purpose.  We  left  it,  to  the  great 
sorrow  of  the  whole  party,  who  were  grieved  to  part  with  a  companion 
which  had  made  the  whole  distance  from  St.  Louis,  and  commanded  re- 
spect lor  us  on  some  critical  occasions,  and  which  might  be  needed  for  the 
same  purpose  again. 

January  SO. — Our  guide,  who  was  a  young  man,  joined  us  this  morn-' 


(;.\PT.  FHFMONT'M  N.MUIMIVB. 


3U 


tro  shown 
with  euch 
loir  hnixia 
h()  (U>p(h ; 
'hey  u\:nU'. 

tr  ivt'l,  \\t! 
ind  to  tlul 
live  A  coik* 

iIk>  riioiiti- 
viilvi!  nun 
wt  waltMs. 
\vy  Muid,  it 
(!  that  thii 
t  I  know  I') 

oi  the  h:i 
s  ()(  twriily 
was  tht!  b  IV 
;niulWalk- 
I  southward 

MucnaviMi- 
til,  U\i"  nic, 
lo  the  iij;lit, 
imatcd  with 
icoplo. 
|)|)ly  of  pine 
pasant  flavor 
^'  provisions, 
was  in  poas, 
\Vc  had 

which  1  re- 


It 


fish  in  their 

intlcr  of  the 

nter  subsist- 

storehousf! 

lole  people 

ut  encamped 
lad  not  sue- 
nd  where  it 
anticipation 
evitable  dc- 
d  to  leave  it 
ench  for  tk 
d  come  with 
,  to  the  great 
a  coujpanion 
nmaiided  re- 
ceded for  the 

IS  this  morn- 


ing ;  nnd,  Icaviri^our  rnninipnM'nt  lain  in  tlu>  day,  wo  dosccndod  llio  river, 
wliK  h  ininu'di.iiijy  oponod  out  into  a, broad  vall«>y,  lurniNhin^  ^^ood  Iruvcl* 
lin^  i^iound.  In  a  aIkmI  di^laiiri>  w«v  paH<«<M|  ihr  \  illa^p,  a  colicriion  of 
utraw  huti,  and  a  low  niilct  below,  tlu-  ;^uid(>  pointed  out  tbt<  plart;  wIhmc 
(III)  wliili'<  bad  brill  t'lMMiiipiMJ  beforo  lliry  i'lilcird  tli<>  mount. lin.  U'ilh 
our  lain  Ntart  wo  lundn  but  ton  niilo^,  and  cncampod  on  tho  low  rivor  hot* 
loin,  whtMo  lliorc  wa<t  no  anow,  but  a  ^;r(al  deal  of  ice  ;  and  wo  out  pilcN  of 
long  gras.H  to  lay  undor  our  b|  tnl«(>tM,  and  I'nc^  vvcro  inado  of  lar^o  dry  ui|. 
low.H,  i(tov(«t  o|  \>bi('h  woodod  tbo  sire  tin.  TIk;  rivor  look  hoiu  a  norlh- 
oatitorly  diiooiion,  and  iIiioukI)  a  ppui  from  the  mountuinit  on  the  left  was 
llip  yap  whoro  wo  woro  lo  pa.>tfl  the  next  day. 

Jttnntiii/  .J  I.  \Vr  look  oui  way  ovoi  a  u;onl!y  .  hint?  ground,  tho  dividing 
ii(li<()  boiiii;  l(d(!rably  \  n\  ;  aii<l  travidlini^  easily  alon;:?  a  broad  trail,  in 
twolvo  or  fourteoti  niiloH  reached  tho  upper  part  of  the  pann,  when  it  boLMii 
to  Hiiow  tliickly,  with  very  cold  weather.  The  Indians  had  only  the 
UNual  Hoatily  covorim:,  and  a|)pearod  lo  NulVer  greatly  from  llie  cold.  All 
loft  UM,  {  xcepi  ourifiiido.  Half  bidden  by  ibo  Htorn.,  the  iiiounriins  looked 
dieary  ;  and,  a*4  ni^bt  beuan  to approaeb,  llie  ^llld(•  nhowod  i^'ioat  reluctance 
lo  m)  forward.  I  f)laced  him  between  two  rilles,  for  the  way  l)eij;an  to  be 
tlillicult.  'I'ravellini,'  a  little  farther,  we  .struck  a  ravine,  wbicli  the  Indian 
.said  would  conduct  u.s  to  llw;  rivor  ;  and  ;is  the  poor  fellow  .siilVered  u'roally, 
tdiiverini;  in  the  snow  which  tell  upon  hi.s  naked  skin,  I  would  not  detain 
him  any  longer  ;  and  lie  ran  oil  to  t!i(>  mountain,  where  ho  .said  there  was 
a  hut  near  by.  lie  bad  kept  tho  blue  and  scarlet  cloth  I  had  given  him 
tinbly  ioIUmI  up,  prefeiiing  rather  to  ondiiio  the  cold  than  to  <^et  thoin  wet. 
In  the  course  ol  the  alternoon,  one  of  the  men  had  his  foot  irost  bitten  : 
and  about  dark  we  had  the  satisfaction  to  reach  the  bottoms  of  n  jstroaui 
timbered  with  lai<j;e  trees,  among  which  \\(;  found  a  sheltered  camp,  with  an 
abundance  of  siich  i^'rass  as  the  season  alloided  for  the  animals.  Wc  saw 
before  us,  in  descending  from  the  pass, a  i^reat  continuous  range, along  which 
stretched  the  valley  of  the  river  ;  the  lower  pans  steep,  and  dark  with  pines, 
while  above  it  was  hidden  in  clouds  of  snow.  This  wc  felt  instantly  satis- 
fied was  the  central  ridge  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  great  California  moun- 
tain, which  only  now  intervened  between  us  and  tho  waters  of  the  bay.  We 
had  made  a  forced  march  of  20  miles,  and  three  mules  had  given  out  on 
the  road.  Up  to  this  point,  with  the  exception  of  two  stolen  by  Indians, 
wc  had  lost  none  of  the  horses  which  had  been  brought  from  the  Columbia 
liver,  and  a  number  of  these  were  still  strong  and  in  tolerably  good  order. 
We  had  now  67  animals  in  the  band. 

We  had  scarcely  lighted  our  fires,  when  the  camp  was  crowded  wiih 
nearly  naked  Indians;  some  of  them  were  furnished  with  long  nets  in  ad- 
dition to  bows,  and  appeared  to  have  been  out  on  the  sage  hills  to  hunt 
rabbits.  Those  nets  were  perhaps  30  to  4t)  feet  long,  kept  upright  in  the 
ground  by  slight  sticks  at  intervals,  and  were  made  from  a  kind  of  wild 
hemp,  very  much  resembling  in  manufacture  those  common  among  th^ 
Indians  of  the  Sacramento  valley.  They  came  among  us  without  any 
fear,  ai»d  scattered  themselves  al)out  the  (ires,  mainly  occupied  in  gratifying 
their  astonishment.  I  was  struck  by  the  singular  appearance  of  a  row  of 
about  a  dozen,  who  were  sitting  on  their  haunches  perched  on  a  log  near 
one  of  the  fires,  with  their  (piicli  sharp  eyes  following  every  motion. 

Wc  gathered  together  a  few  of  the  most  intelligent  of  the  Indians,  and 
held  this  evening  an  interesting  council.     I  explained  to  thetn  my  inten- 


•»v 


'i 


'it 


■i,t 
t-  ■>, 


:-i.- 


.■■.  »'■ 


mm 


212 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[184C 


P 


tions.  I  told  ihem  (hat  we  had  come  from  a  very  far  country,  havirr";  been 
truvollitif;  now  nearly  a  year,  and  that  we  were  desirous  simply  to  go  across 
the  mounliiiii  into  the  country  of  the  other  whites.  There  were  two  who 
appeared  particularly  intelligent — one,  a  somewhat  old  man.  lie  told  me 
that,  hefoio  the  snows  fell,  it  was  six  sleeps  to  the  place  where  the  whites 
lived,  but  that  now  it  was  impossible  to  cross  the  mountain  on  account  of 
the  deep  snow  ;  and  showing  us,  as  the  olliers  had  done,  that  it  was  over 
our  heads,  he  urged  us  strongly  to  follow  the  course  of  the  river,  which  he 
said  would  conduct  us  to  a  lake  in  which'  there  were  many  large  lish. 
There,  he  said,  were  niany  people  ;  there  was  no  siow  on  the  ground  ; 
and  we  might  lemuin  there  until  the  spring.  From  iheir  descrij)tions,  we 
were  enabled  to  judge  that  we  had  enciimped  on  the  upper  water  of  the 
Salmon  Trout  river.  It  is  hardly  necrs^ary  to  say  that  our  communication 
was  only  by  signs,  as  we  undcistood  nothing  of  their  language  ;  hut  they 
spoke,  notwithstanding,  rapidly  and  veliemetitly,  explaining  what  they  con- 
sidered the  folly  of  our  intentions,  and  uiging  U3  lo  go  down  to  the  lake. 
Tah-ve,  a  word  signifying  snow,  we  very  soon  learned  to  know,  from  its 
frequent  repetition.  1  told  him  that  the  men  and  the  horses  were  strong, 
and  that  we  would  bre  J.  a  road  through  the  snow  ;  and  spreading  be- 
fore him  our  bales  of  scarlet  cloth,  and  trinkets,  showed  him  what  we 
would  give  for  a  guide,  li  was  necessaiy  to  obtain  one,  if  possible  ;  for  I 
had  determined  here  to  attempt  the  passage  of  the  mountain.  Pulling  a 
bunch  of  grass  from  the  ground,  after  a  short  discussion  among  themselves, 
the  old  man  made  us  comprehend,  tliat  ii  we  could  breakthrough  the  snow, 
at  the  end  of  three  days  we  would  come  down  upon  grass,  which  he 
showed  us  would  be  about  six  inches  higli,and  where  the  ground  was  en- 
tirely free.  So  far,  he  said,  he  had  been  in  hunting  for  elk;  but  beyond  that, 
(and  he  closed  his  eyes)  he  had  seen  nothing;  but  there  was  one  among 
them  who  had  been  to  the  whites,  and,  going  out  of  the  lodge,  he  returned 
with  a  young  man  of  very  intelligent  appearance.  Here,  said  he,  is  a 
young  man  who  has  seen  the  whites  with  his  own  eyes  ;  and  he  swore, 
first  by  the  sky,  and  then  by  the  ground,  that  what  he  said  was  true.  With 
a  large  present  of  goods,  we  prevailed  upon  this  young  man  to  be  our 
guide,  and  he  acquired  among  us  the  name  Melo — a  word  signifying  friend, 
which  they  used  very  frequently.  He  was  thinly  clad,  and  nearly  barefoot ; 
his  moccasins  being  about  worn  out.  VV"e  gave  him  skins  to  make  a  new 
pair,  and  to  enable  him  to  pei  form  his  undertaking  to  us.  The  Indians  re- 
mained in  the  camp  during  the  ni>iht,  and  Ave  kept  the  guide  and  two  others 
to  sleep  in  the  lodge  with  us — Carson  lying  across  the  door,  and  having 
made  them  comprehend  the  use  of  our  fire  arms.  The  snow,  which  had 
intermitted  in  the  evening,  commenced  falling  again  in  the  course  of  the 
night,  and  it  snowed  steadily  all  day.  In  the  morning  I  acquainted  the 
men  with  my  decision,  aiul  explained  to  them  that  necessity  required  us  to 
make  a  great  effort  to  clear  the  mountains.  I  reminded  them  of  the  beau- 
tiful valley  of  the  Sicramento,  with  which  they  were  familiar  from  the  de- 
scriptions of  Carson,  who  had  been  there  some  fifteen  years  ago,  and  who, 
in  our  late  privations,  had  delighted  us  in  speaking  of  its  rich  pastures  and 
abounding  game,  and  drew  a  vivid  contrast  between  its  summer  climate, 
less  than  a  hundred  miles  distant,  and  the  falling  snow  around  us.  I  in- 
formed (hem  (and  long  experience  had  given  them  confidence  in  my  ob- 
servations and  good  instruments)  that  almost  directly  west,  and  only  about 
70  miles  distant,  was  the  great  farming  establishment  of  Captain  Sutter — a 


[1844. 

aving  been 
to  go  across 
re  two  who 
He  told  me 

the  whites 

account  oi 
it  was  over 
r,  which  he 
;  large  fish, 
le  ground  ; 
riptions,  we 
^ater  of  the 
imunication 

2  ;  hut  they 
at  they  con- 
to  the  lake. 
iw,  from  its 
vcre  strong, 
ireading  be- 
in  what  we 
ssible  ;  for  I 

Fulling  a 
themselves, 
!;h  the  snow,    J 
jS,  which  he 
und  was  en- 
bey  ond  that, 
i  one  among 
he  returned 
aid  he,  is  a 
d  he  swore, 
true.    With 
n  to  be  our 
Tying  friend, 
rly  barefoot; 
miake  a  new 

3  Indians  re- 
d  two  others 
,  and  having 
r',  which  had 
ourse  of  the 
quainted  the 
equired  us  to 
of  the  beau- 
from  the  de- 
go,  and  who, 
pastures  and 
raer  climate, 
nd  us.     I  in- 
e  in  my  ob- 
id  only  about 
in  Sutter — a 


1844.] 


CAPT.  FRE.MONT'.S  NAUKATIVE. 


213 


gentleman  who  had  formerly  lived  in  Missouri,  and,  emigrating  lo  tins 
country,  had  become  the  possessor  ol  a  j)rini'ip;ility.  I  assured  them  that, 
from  thi;  heights  of  the  mountain  befoio  us,  we  should  doubtless  sec  the 
valley  of  the  Sacramento  river,  and  with  one  elTort  place  ourselves  again 
in  the  midst  ol  plenty.  The  people  received  this  decision  with  the  cheer- 
ful obedience  which  had  always  characterized  them  ;  and  the  day  was  im- 
mediately devoted  to  the  preparations  necessary  to  enable  us  to  carry  it  into 
effect.  Loggings,  moccasins,  clothinii; — all  were  \  X  into  the  best  state  to 
resist  the  cold.  Our  guide  was  not  neglected.  Extremity  of  sulFering 
might  make  him  desert ;  we  therefore  did  the  best  we  could  for  him.  Leg- 
gings, moccasins,  some  articles  of  clothing,  and  a  large  green  blanket,  in 
addition  to  the  blue  and  scarlet  cloth,  wore  lavished  upon  him,  and  to  liis 
great  and  evident  contentment.  He  an  ayed  himself  in  all  his  colors  ;  and, 
clad  in  green,  iilue,  and  scarlet,  he  made  a  gay-lookinj;;  '  .tiian  ;  and,  with 
his  various  presents,  was  probably  richer  and  better  clothed  than  any  of 
his  tribe  had  ever  been  before. 

I  have  already  said  that  our  provisions  v  ere  very  low;  we  had  neither 
tallow  nor  grease  of  any  kind  remaining,  .nd  the  want  of  salt  became  one 
of  our  greatest  privations.  The  poor  dog  which  had  been  found  in  the 
Bear  river  valley,  and  which  had  beer  a  compagnon  de  voyage  ever  since, 
had  now  become  fat,  and  the  mess  to  w  hich  it  belonged  requested  permis- 
sion to  kill  it.  Leave  was  granted.  Spread  out  on  the  snow,  the  meat 
looked  very  good  ;  and  it  made  a  strengthening  meal  for  the  greater  part 
of  the  camp.  Indians  brought  in  two  or  three  rabbits  during  the  day, 
which  were  purchased  from  them. 

The  river  was  40  to  70  feet  wide,  and  now  entirely  frozen  over.  It  was 
wooded  with  larre  cottonwood,  willow,  and  grain  de  hocuf.  By  observa- 
tion, the  latitude  of  this  encampment  was  3b°  37'  18". 

Februan/  2. — It  had  ceased  snowing,  and  this  morning  the  lower  air 
was  clear  and  frosty ;  and  six  or  seven  thousand  feet  above,  the  peaks  of 
the  Sierra  now  and  then  appeared  among  the  rolling  clouds,  which  were, 
rapidly  dispersing  before  the  sun.  Our  Indian  shook  his  head  as  he  pointed 
to  the  icy  pinnacles,  shooting  high  up  into  the  sky,  and  seeming  almost  im- 
mediatel}'^  above  us.  Crossing  the  river  on  the  ice,  and  leaving  it  imme- 
diately, we  commenced  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  along  the  valley  of  a 
tributary  stream.  The  people  were  unusually  silent ;  for  every  man  knew 
that  our  enterprise  was  hazardous,  and  the  issue  doubtful. 

The  snow  deepened  rapidly,  and  it  soon  became  necessary  to  break  a  road. 
Fo«-  this  service,  a  party  of  ten  was  formed,  mounted  on  the  strongest 
horses  ;  each  man  in  succession  ope'iing  the  road  on  foot,  or  on  horseback, 
until  himself  and  his  horse  becr.me  fatigued,  when  he  stepped  aside;  and, 
the  remaining  number  passing  ahead,  he  took  his  station  in  the  rear.  Leav- 
ing this  stream,  and  pursuing  a  very  direct  course,  we  passed  over  an  inter- 
vening ridge  to  the  river  we  had  left.  On  the  way  we  passed  two  low 
huts  entirely  covered  with  snow,  which  might  very  easily  have  escaped 
observation.  A  family  was  living  in  each  ;  and.  the  only  trail  I  saw  in  the 
neighboihood  was  from  the  door  hole  to  a  nut-pine  tree  near,  which  sup- 
plied them  with  food  and  fuel.  We  found  two  similar  huts  on  the  creek 
where  we  next  arrived  ;  and,  travelling  a  little  higher  up,  encamped  on  its 
banks  in  about  four  feet  depth  of  snow.  Carson  found  near,  an  open  hill 
side,  where  the  wind  and  the  sun  had  melted  the  snow,  leaving  exposed 
sufficient  bunch  grass  for  the  animals  to-night. 


^i* 


II 


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s 

'■■'<* 


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if 


214 


CAPT.  FRCMONT'.S  NARRATIVE. 


[1844^ 


The  nut  pines  were  now  giving  way  to  heavy  timber,  and  there  were 
some  immense  pines  on  the  bottom,  iiround  the  roots  of  which  the  sun  had 
melted  away  the  snow  ;  and  here  we  made  our  camps  and  built  huge  fires. 
To-day  we  had  travelled  sixteen  njiles,  and  our  i^levation  above  the  sea 
was  6,760  feet. 

Febrvary  3. — Turning  our  facesdirectly  towards  the  main  chain,  we  as- 
cended an  open  hollow  along  a  small  tributary  to  the  river,  which,  accord- 
ing to  the  Indians,  issues  from  a  mountain  to  the  soutli.  The  snow  was 
so  deep  in  the  hollow,  that  we  were  obliged  to  travel  along  the  steep  hill 
sides,  and  over  spurs,  where  wind  and  sun  had  in  places  lessened  the 
snow,  and  where  the  grass,  which  appeared  to  be  in  good  quality  along  the 
sides  of  the  mountains,  was  exposed.  We  opened  our  road  in  the  same 
^vay  as  yesterday,  but  made  only  seven  miles;  and  encamped  by  some 
springs  at  the  foot  of  a  high  and  steep  hill,  by  which  the  hollow  ascended 
to  another  basin  in  the  mountain.  The  little  stream  below  was  entirely 
buried  in  snow.  The  springs  were  shaded  by  the  boughs  of  a  lofty  cedar, 
which  here  made  its  first  appearance;  the  usual  height  was  120  to  130 
feet,  and  one  that  was  measured  near  by  was  6  feet  in  diameter. 

There  being  no  grass  exposed  here,  the  horses  were  sent  back  to  that 
which  we  had  seen  a  few  miles  below.  We  occupied  the  remainder  of  the 
day  in  beating  down  a  road  to  the  foot  of  the  hill,  a  mile  or  two  distant ; 
the  snow  being  beaten  down  when  moist,  in  the  warm  part  of  the  day,  and 
then  hard  frozen  at  night,  made  a  foundation  that  would  bear  the  weight 
of  the  animals  the  next  morning.  During  the  day  several  Indians  joined 
us  on  snow  shoes.  These  were  made  of  a  circular  hoop,  about  a  foot  in 
diameter,  the  interior  space  being  filled  with  an  open  network  of  bark. 

February  4. — I  went  aliead  early  with  two  or  three  men,  each  with  a 
led  horse,  to  break  the  road.  We  were  obliged  to  abandon  the  hollow  en- 
tirely, and  work  along  the  mountain  side,  which  was  very  steep,  and  the 
snow  covered  with  an  icy  crust.  We  cut  a  footing  as  we  advanced,  and 
trampled  a  road  through  for  the  aninials  ;  but  occasionally  one  plunged  out- 
side the  trail,  and  slided  along  the  field  to  the  bottom,  a  hundred  yards  be- 
low. Late  in  the  day  we  reached  another  bench  in  the  hollow,  where,  in 
summer,  the  stream  passed  over  a  small  precipice.  Heie  was  a  short  dis- 
tance of  dividing  ground  between  the  two  ridges,  and  beyond  an  open  ba- 
sin, some  ten  miles  across,  whose  bottom  presented  a  field  of  snow.  At 
the  further  or  western  side  rose  the  middle  crest  of  the  mountain,  a  dark- 
looking  ridge  of  volcanic  rock. 

The  summit  line  presented  a  range  of  naked  peaks,  apparently  destitute 
of  snow  and  vegetation  ;  but  below,  the  face  of  the  whole  country  was 
covered  with  timber  of  extraordinary  size. 

Towards  a  pass  which  the  guide  indicated  here,  we  attempted  in  the  af- 
ternoon to  force  a  road;  but  after  a  laborious  plunging  through  two  or 
three  hundred  yards,  our  best  horses  gave  out,  entirely  refusing  to  make 
any  further  effort ;  and,  for  the  time,  we  were  brought  to  a  stand.  The 
guide  informed  us  that  we  were  entering  the  deep  snow,  and  here  began 
the  difficulties  of  the  mountain  ;  and  to  him,  and  almost  to  all,  our  enter- 
prise seemed  hopeless.  I  returned  a  short  distance  back,  to  the  break  in 
the  hollow,  where  I  met  Mr.  Fitzpatrick. 

The  camp  had  been  all  the  day  occupied  in  endeavoiing  to  ascend  the 
hill,  but  only  the  best  horses  had  succeeded.     The  animals,  generally,  not 


1844.] 


CAPT.  FRF.MONT'.S  NARRATIVE. 


215 


•>h 


Eiin,  we  as- 
[;!i,  accord- 
snow  was 
i  steep  liill 
ssencd  the 
y  along  the 
II  the  same 
J  by  some 
/  ascended 
as  entirely 
ofty  cedar, 
120  to  130 
r. 

ack  to  that 
nder  of  the 
vo  distant ; 
le  day, and 
the  weight 
ians  joined 
ut  a  foot  in 
of  bark, 
ach  with  a 
hollow  en- 
p,  and  the 
anced,  and 
unged  out- 
i  yards  be- 
,  where,  in 
I  short  dis- 
in  open  ba- 
snow.  At 
iin,a  dark- 

y  destitute 
)untry  was 

d  in  the  af- 
gh  two  or 
ig  to  make 
and.  The 
lere  began 
our  enter- 
le  break  in 

ascend  the 
lerally,  not 


having  sufficient  strength  to  bring  themselves  up  without  the  packs;  and 
all  the  line  of  road  between  this  and  the  springs  was  strewed  with  camp 
stores  and  equipage,  and  horses  floundering  in  snow.  1  therefore  imme- 
diately encamped  on  the  ground  with  my  own  mess,  which  was  in  ad- 
vance, and  directed  Mr.  P'itzpatrick  to  encamp  at  the  springs,  and  send  all 
the  animals,  in  charge  of  Tabeau,  with  a  strong  guard,  back  to  the  place 
where  they  had  been  pastured  the  night  before.  Here  was  a  small  spot 
of  levrl  ground,  protected  on  one  side  by  the  mountain,  and  on  the  other 
sheltered  by  a  little  ridge  of  rock.  It  was  an  open  grove  of  pines,  which 
assimilated  in  size  to  the  grandeur  of  the  mountain,  being  frequently  six 
feet  in  diameter. 

To-night  we  had  no  shelter,  but  we  made  a  large  fue  around  the  trunk 
of  one  of  the  huge  pines  ;  and  covering  the  snow  with  small  boughs,  on 
which  we  spread  our  blankets,  soon  made  ourselves  comfortable.  The 
night  was  very  bright  and  clear,  though  the  thermoineler  was  only  at  10". 
A  strong  wind,  which  spiang  up  at  sundown,  made  it  intensely  cold  ;  and 
this  was  one  of  the  bitterest  nights  during  the  journey. 

Two  Indians  joined  our  party  here;  and  one  of  them,  an  old  man,  im- 
mediately began  to  harangue  us,  saying  that  ourselves  and  animals  w^ould 
perish  in  the  snow;  and  that  if  we  would  go  back,  he  would  show  us  an- 
other and  a  better  way  across  the  mountain.  He  spoke  in  a  very  loud 
voice,  and  there  was  a  singukir  repetition  of  phrases  and  arrangement  of 
words,  which  rendered  his  speech  striking,  and  not  unmusical. 

We  had  now  begun  to  uiuhirstand  some  words,  and,  with  the  aid  of  signs, 
easily  coraprebt  nded  the  old  man's  simple  ideas.  "  Hock  upon  rock — rock 
upon  rock — snow  upon  snow — snow  upon  snow,"  said  he  ;  "  even  if  you 
get  over  the  snow,  you  will  not  be  able  to  get  down  from  the  mountains." 
He  made  us  the  sign  of  precipices,  and  showed  us  how  the  feet  of  the 
horses  would  slip,  and  throw  them  off  from  the  narrow  trails  which  led 
along  their  sides.  Our  Chinook,  who  comprehended  even  more  readily 
than  ourselves,  and  believed  our  situation  hopeless,  covered  his  head  with 
his  blanket,  and  began  to  weep  and  lament.  "  I  wanted  to  see  the  whites," 
said  he  ;  "I  came  away  from  my  own  people  to  see  the  whites,  and  I 
wouldn't  care  to  die  among  them  ;  but  here" — and  he  looked  around  into 
the  cold  night  and  gloomy  forest,  and,  drawing  his  blanket  over  his  head, 
began  again  to  lament. 

Seated  around  the  tree,  the  fire  illuminating  the  rocks  and  the  tall  bolls 
of  the  pines  round  about,  and  the  old  India.i  haranguing,  we  presented  a 
group  of  very  serious  faces. 

February  5. — The  night  had  been  too  cold  to  sleep,  and  we  were  up 
very  early.  Our  guide  was  standing  by  the  fire  with  all  his  finery  on ; 
and  seeing  him  shiver  in  the  cold,  1  threw  on  his  shoulders  one  of  my 
blankets.  We  missed  him  a  few  minutes  afterwards,  and  never  saw  him 
again.  He  had  deserted.  His  bad  faith  and  treachery  were  in  perfect 
keeping  with  the  estimate  of  Indian  character,  which  a  long  intercourse 
with  this  people  had  gradually  forced  upon  my  mind. 

While  a  portion  of  the  camp  were  occupied  in  bringing  up  the  baggage 
to  this  point,  the  remainder  v/ere  busied  in  making  sledges  and  snow  shoes. 
I  had  determined  to  explore  the  mountain  ahead,  and  the  sledges  were  to 
be  used  in  transporting  the  baggage. 

The  mountains  here  consisted  wholly  of  a  white  micaceous  granite. 


PL 


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2\n 


TAPT.  KRKMONTrt  NARHATIVE. 


[1844. 


Thn  (lay  was  perfectly  clear,  and,  while  the  sun  \v«s  in  the  sky,  warm 
and  plc.js.int. 

Hy  ohsoi  valioii,  our  latitude  uas  38  '12'  ?G'' ;  and  elevation,  by  the 
boiling  point,  7,100  {vv.i. 

Fchniury  (J. — Ai'coinpanied  hy  Mr.  Fitzj)aliick,  I  sat  out  to-day  with  a 
reconnoitrinj^  paity,on  snow  shoes.  Wo  marched  all  in  single  file,  tramp- 
ling the  snow  as  heavily  as  we  could.  Crossin;;  (lie  open  basin,  in  a  march 
of  about  ton  miles  we  reached  the  to[)  of  t)Me  of  the  peaks,  to  the  left  ol 
the  pass  indicated  by  oui  guide.  Far  below  us,  dimincMl  by  the  distance, 
was  a  large  snowless  >  alley,  bounded  on  the  wiistern  side,  at  the  distance 
of  about  a  luuKJred  miles,  by  a  low  range  of  mountains,  which  (yarsoii 
recognised  with  delight  as  the  mountains  bordering  the  coast.  "  There." 
said  he,  *'  is  ihe  little  mountain — it  is  15  years  ago  since  1  saw  it;  but  I 
am  just  as  suie  as  if  I  had  seen  it  yesterday."  IJetweun  us,  then,  and  this 
low  coast  range,  was  the  vall'jy  of  the  Saciamento  ;  and  no  one  who  had 
not  accompanied  us  ihrougb  the  incidents  of  our  life  for  the  last  few  nionth.s 
could  realize  the  delight  with  which  at  last  W(!  looked  down  upon  it.  At 
the  distance  of  a|>parently  30  miles  beyond  us  wer<;  distinguished  spots  ol 
prairie;  and  a  dajk  line,  which  could  be  traced  with  the  glass,  was  im- 
agined to  be  the  course  of  the  river;  but  we  were  evidently  at  a  great 
height  above  (he  valley,  and  between  us  and  the  plains  extended  miles 
of  snowy  fields  and  broken  ridges  of  pine-covered  mountains. 

It  was  late  in  tiiu  day  when  we  turned  towaids  the  camp  ;  and  it  grew 
rapidly  cold  as  ii  drew  towards  night.  One  of  the  men  became  fatigued, 
and  liis  feet  bey:an  to  freeze,  and,  building  a  fire  in  the  trunk  of  a  dry  old 
cedar,  Mr.  Fitz|)atrick  remained  with  him  until  his  clothes  could  be  dried, 
and  lie  was  iii  a  condition  to  come  on.  After  a  day's  march  of  20  miles, 
we  straggled  into  camp,  one  after  another,  at  night  fall;  the  greater  num- 
ber excessively  fatigued,  only  two  of  the  party  haying  ever  travelled  on 
snow  shoes  before. 

All  our  energies  were  now  directed  to  getting  our  animals  across  the 
snow  ;  and  it  was  supposed  that,  after  all  the  baggage  had  been  drawn  with 
the  sleighs  over  the  trail  we  had  made,  it  would  be  sufficiently  hard  to 
bear  our  animals.  At  several  places,  between  this  point  and  the  ridge,  we 
had  discovered  some  grassy  spots,  where  the  wind  and  sun  had  dispersed 
the  snow  from  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  these  were  to  form  resting  places 
to  support  the  animals  for  a  night  in  their  passage  across.  On  our  way 
across,  we  had  set  on  fire  several  broken  stumps,  and  dried  trees,  to  melt 
holes  in  the  snow  for  the  camps.  Its  general  depth  was  5  feet;  but  we 
passed  over  places  where  it  was  20  feet  deep,  as  shown  by  the  trees. 

With  one  party  drawing  sleighs  loaded  with  baggage,  I  advanced  to-day 
about  four  miles  along  the  trail,  and  encamped  at  the  fiist  grassy  spot,  where 
we  expected  to  bring  our  horses.  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  with  another  party,  re- 
mained behind,  to  form  an  intermediate  station  between  us  and  the  animals. 

February  8. — The  night  has  been  extremely  cold  ;  but  perfectly  still, 
and  beautifully  clear.  Before  the  sun  appeared  this  morning,  the  ther- 
mometer was  3'  below  zero ;  1°  higher,  when  his  rays  struck  the  lofty 
peaks  ;  and  0'  when  they  reached  our  camp. 

Scenery  and  weather,  combined,  must  render  these  mountains  beautiful 
in  summer ;  the  purity  and  deep-blue  color  of  the  sky  are  singularly  beau- 
tiful;  the  days  are  sunny  and  bright,  and  even  warm  in  the  noon  hours; 
and  if  we  could  be  free  from  the  many  anxieties  that  oppress  us,  even  now 


[1844. 
sky,  warm 


1^44.1 


CAI'T.  FRHMONT'.S  NARKA  riVK. 


S17 


»n, 


by  the 


lay  with  a 
lie,  trump- 
in  u  march 
the  lolt  ol 
3  (iistai)ce, 
e  diiituncc 
ch  (/arson 
"  There/' 
V  it ;  but  I 
n,  and  this 
c  who  had 
ew  months 
on  it.  At 
nd  spots  ol 
IS,  was  im* 
at  a  great 
tded  miles 

nd  it  grew 
e  fatigued, 
f  a  dry  old 
d  be  dried, 
20  miles, 
ater  num- 
avelled  on 

across  the 
awn  with 
y  hard  to 
ridge,  we 
dispersed 
ng  places 

our  way 

s,  to  melt 

t ;  but  we 

trees. 

ed  to-day 

)ot,  where 

party,  re- 

e  animals. 

ectly  still. 

the  ther- 

the  lofty 

beautiful 
irly  beau- 
on  hours ; 
even  now 


wo  would  ho  dclinhled  here  ;  hut  our  provisions  are  getting  fearfully  scant. 
Sleighs  arrived  wilh  baggage  ahoul  10  o'clock;  and  leaving  a  portion  ot  it 
here,  we  continued  on  for  a  mile  and  a  hall,  and  encamped  at  the  foot  of 
a  long  hill  on  (his  side  of  the  o|)en  botloni. 

Bernicr  and  (lodey,  who  yestiirday  morning  had  bisen  sent  to  ascend  a 
higher  peak,  got  in,  hungr)'  and  fatigued.  TlMiy  conlirtntd  what  we  had 
already  seen.  Two  other  sleighs  arrived  in  the  afternoon  ;  and  the  men 
being  fatigued,  I  gave  them  all  tea  and  sugar.  Snow  clouds  began  to  rise 
in  the  SSVV.  ;  and,  apprehensive  of  a  slorm,  whieh  would  destroy  our 
road,  I  sent  the  people  back  to  JMr.  Fit/patrick  vvith  directions  to  send 
for  the  animals  in  the  morning.  With  nie  renjained  Mr.  Preuss,  Mr.  Tal- 
bot, and  Carson,  with  .Jacob. 

Elevation  of  the  camp,  by  the  boiling  point,  is  7,920  feet. 

Fcbruari/  f). — During  the  night  the  weather  changcid,  the  wind  rising  to 
a  gale,  and  commencing  to  snow  before  daylight ;  before  morning  the  trail 
was  covered.  We  remained  quiet  in  camp  all  day,  in  the  course  of  which 
the  weather  improved.  Four  sleighs  arrived  toward  evening,  with  the 
bedding  of  the  men.  We  suffer  much  frt)m  the  want  of  salt;  and  all  ihc 
men  are  becoming  weak  from  insutlicient  food. 

Fcdruaiy  10. — Taplin  was  sent  back  with  a  few  men  to  assist  Mr.  Fitz- 
patrick  ;  and  continuing  on  with  three  sleighs  carrying  a  part  of  the  bag- 
gage, we  had  tiie  satisfaction  to  encamp  within  two  and  a  half  miles  of  the 
head  ol  the  hollow,  and  at  tlie  foot  of  the  hist  mountain  ridge.  Here  two 
large  trees  had  been  set  on  fire,  and  in  the  holes,  where  the  snow  had  been 
melted  away,  we  found  a  comfortable  camp. 

The  wind  kept  the  air  fdled  with  snow  during  the  day  ;  the  sky  was  very 
dark  in  the  southwest,  though  elsewhere  veiy  clear.  The  forest  here  has 
a  noble  appearance  :  the  tall  cedar  is  abinidant;  its  greatest  height  being 
130  feet,  and  circumference  20,  three  or  four  feet  above  the  ground  ;  and 
here  1  see  for  the  first  time  the  white  pine,  of  which  there  are  some  mag- 
nificent trees.  Hemlock  spruce  is  among  the  timber,  occasionally  as  large 
as  8  feet  in  diameter  four  feet  above  the  ground  ;  but,  in  ascending,  it 
tapers  rapidly  to  less  than  one  foot  at  the  height  of  80  feet.  1  have  not 
seen  any  higher  than  130  feet,  and  the  slight  upper  part  is  frequently 
broken  off  by  the  wind.  The  white  spruce  is  irequent ;  and  the  red  pine, 
(pinus  Colorado  of  the  Mexicans,)  which  constitutes  the  beautiful  forest 
along  the  flanks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  to  the  northward,  is  here  the  prin- 
cipal tree,  not  attaining  a  greater  height  than  140  feet,  though  with  some- 
times a  diameter  of  10.  Most  of  these  trees  appeared  to  differ  slightly 
from  those  of  the  same  kind  on  the  other  side  of  the  continent. 

The  elevation  of  the  camp,  by  the  boiling  point,  is  8,050  feet.  We  are 
now  1,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  South  Pass  in  the  Rocky  mountains  ; 
and  still  we  are  not  done  ascending.  The  top  of  a  flat  ridge  near  was  bare 
of  snow,  and  very  well  sprinkled  with  bunch  grass,  sufficient  to  pasture  the 
animals  two  or  three  days;  and  this  was  to  be  their  main  point  of  support. 
This  ridge  is  composed  of  a  compact  trap,  or  basalt,  of  a  columnar  struc- 
ture ;  over  the  surface  are  scattered  large  boulders  of  porous  trap.  The  hills 
are  in  many  places  entirely  covered  with  small  fragments  of  volcanic  rock. 

Putting  on  our  snow  shoes,  we  spent  the  afternoon  in  exploring  a  road 
ahead.  The  glare  of  the  snow,  combined  with  great  fatigue,  had  rendered 
many  of  the  people  nearly  blind  ;  but  we  were  fortunate  in  having  some 
black  silk  handkerchiefs,  which,  worn  as  veils,  very  much  relieved  the  eye. 


''; 


I 


•i. 


'Ife'^ 


5%. 


w 


21S 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1844. 


February  11. — High  uind  continued,  and  onr  trail  this  morning, was 
nearly  invisible — here  and  lIuMe  itulicated  by  u  little  ridge  ol  snow.  Our 
(situation  became  tiresome  and  dreary,  requiring  a  strong  exercise  of  pa* 
ticnce  and  resolution. 

In  the  evening  I  received  a  message  from  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  acquainting 
me  with  the  utter  failure  of  his  attempt  to  j^et  oui-  mules  and  horses  over 
ihe  snow — the  half-hidden  trail  luid  proved  entirely  too  ali«i;ht  to  support 
them,  and  '>oy  had  broken  through,  and  were  plunging  about  or  lying  half 
buried  in  snow.  He  was  occupied  in  endeavoring  to  ^vA  them  back  to 
his  camp;  and  in  the  mean  time  sent  to  me  for  lurther  instructions.  I 
wrote  to  him  to  .send  (lie  aninuds  immediately  back  to  their  old  pastures; 
and,  alter  having  made  mauls  and  shovels,  turn  in  all  the  strength  of  his 
party  to  open  and  beat  a  road  through  the  snow,  strengthening  it  with 
branches  and  boughs  of  the  pines. 

February  12. — We  made  mauls,  and  worked  hard  at  our  end  of  the 
road  all  the  day.  The  wind  was  high,  but  the  sun  bright,  and  the  snow 
thawing.  We  worked  down  the  face  of  the  hill,  to  meet  the  people  at 
the  other  end.  Towards  sundown  it  began  to  grow  cold,  and  we  shoul- 
dered our  mauls,  and  trudi^ed  back  to  camp. 

February  13. — We  continued  to  labor  on  the  road;  and  in  the  course 
of  the  day  had  the  satisfaction  to  see  the  people  working  down  the  face  of 
the  opposite  hill,  about  three  miles  distant.  Durin^;  the  morning  we  had 
the  pleasure  of  a  visit  from  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  with  the  inlormatioii  that  all 
was  going  on  well.  A  party  of  Indians  had  passed  on  show  shoes,  who 
said  they  were  going  to  the  western  side  of  the  mountain  after  fish.  This 
was  at)  indication  that  the  salmon  were  coming  up  the  streams;  and  we 
could  hardly  restrain  our  impatience  as  wc  thought  of  them,  and  worked 
with  increased  vigor. 

The  meat  train  did  not  arrive  this  evening,  and  I  gave  Godey  leave  to 
kill  our  little  dog,  ( Tlainath, )  which  he  prepared  in  Indian  fashion  ;  scorch- 
ing ofT  the  hair,  and  washing  the  skin  with  soap  and  snow,  and  then  cut- 
ting it  up  into  pieces,  which  were  laid  on  the  snow.  Shortly  afterwards, 
the  sleigh  arrived  with  a  supply  of  horse  meat ;  and  we  had  to-night  an 
extraordinary  dinner — pea  soup,  mule,  and  dog. 

February  14. — The  dividing  ridge  of  the  Sierra  is  in  sight  from  this 
encampment.  Accompanied  by  Mr.  Preuss,  1  ascended  to-day  the  high- 
est peak  to  the  right ;  from  which  we  had  a  beautiful  view  of  a  mountain 
lake  at  our  feet,  about  fifteen  miles  in  length,  and  so  entirely  surrounded 
by  mountains  that  we  could  not  discover  an  outlet.  We  had  taken  with 
us  a  glass  ;  but,  though  we  enjoyed  an  extended  view,  the  valley  was  half 
hidden  in  mist,  as  when  we  had  seen  it  before.  Snow  could  be  distin- 
guished on  the  higher  parts  of  the  coast  mountains  ;  eastward,  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  extend,  it  ranged  over  a  terrible  mass  of  broken  snowy  moun- 
tains, fading  off  blue  in  the  distance.  The  rock  composing  the  summit  con- 
sists of  a  very  coarse  dark  volcanic  conglomerate  ;  the  lower  parts  appeared 
to  be  of  a  slaty  structure.  The  highest  trees  were  a  few  scattering  cedars 
and  aspens.  From  the  immediate  foot  of  the  peak,  we  were  two  hours  in 
reaching  the  summit,  and  one  hour  and  a  quarter  in  descending.  The  day 
had  been  very  bright,  still,  and  clear,  and  spring  seems  to  be  advancing 
rapidly.  While  the  sun  is  in  the  sky,  the  snow  melts  rapidly,  and  gushing 
springs  cover  the  face  of  the  mountain  in  all  the  exposed  places  ;  but  their 
surface  freezes  instantly  with  the  disappearance  of  the  sun. 


[1844.   ■  1>644.] 


CAPT.   FFlKM(y.\  1  H  NARRATIVE. 


.^ 


219 


,orning.was 
snow.  Our 
ciso  of  pa- 

nequainting 
horses  over 
t  to  8U|)|)ort 
I  lying  halt 
cm  back  tu 
ructions.  I 
Id  pastures; 
iij^tli  ol  his 
ling  it  with 

end  of  the 
nd  the  snow 
e  people  at 
d  we  shoul- 

n  the  course 
1  the  face  of 
ling  we  had 
Uion  that  all 
siioes,  who 
r  fish.  This 
nis ;  and  we 
and  worked 

ley  leave  to 
ion  ;  scorch- 
rid  then  cut- 
afterwards, 
to-night  an 

ht  from  this 
ay  the  high- 
a  mountain 
surrounded 
taken  with 
ey  was  half 
1  be  distin- 
as  far  as  the 
lowy  moun- 
suramit  cen- 
ts appeared 
ering  cedars 
wo  hours  in 
The  day 
e  advancing 
and  gushing 
IS ;  but  their 


I  o1)tained  to-night  some  observations  ;  and  the  result  from  these,  and  oth- 
ers made  tiuring  our  stay,  gives  for  the  latitude  38"  41'  57  ",  longitude  120° 
25'  57",  and  rate  of  the  chronometer  25". H2. 

Februarif  16. — We  had  .succeeded  in  getting  our  animals  safely  to  the 
first  grassy  hill  ;  and  this  morning  I  started  with  .Jacob  on  a  reconnoitring 
expedition  beyond  the  mountain.  Wo  travelled  along  the  crests  of  narrow 
ridges,  extending  down  from  the  mountain  in  the  direction  of  the  valley, 
from  which  the  snow  was  fast  melting  away.  On  the  open  spots  was  tol- 
erably good  grass;  and  I  jud^'cd  we  should  succeed  in  getting  the  camp 
down  by  way  of  these.  Towards  sundown  we  discovered  some  icy  spots 
in  a  deep  hollow  ;  and,  descending  the  mountain,  we  encamped  on  the  head 
water  of  a  little  creek,  where  at  last  the  water  found  its  way  to  the  I'acific. 

'I'he  night  was  clear  and  very  long.  Wo  heard  the  cries  of  some  wild 
animals,  which  had  been  attracted  by  our  lire,  and  a  flock  of  geese  passed 
over  during  the  night.  Even  these  strange  sounds  had  sometliin2[  pleasant 
to  our  senses  in  this  region  of  silence  anil  desolation. 

We  started  again  early  in  (he  morning.  The  creek  acquired  a  regular 
breadth  of  about  20  feet,  and  we  soon  began  to  hear  the  rushing  of  the  water 
below  the  ice  surface,  over  which  we  travelled  to  avoid  the  snow  ;  a  few 
miles  below  we  broke  through,  where  the  water  was  several  feet  dee[),  and 
halted  to  make  a  fire  and  dry  our  clothes.  We  continued  a  few  miles 
farther,  walking  being  very  laborious  w  ithout  snow  shoes. 

1  was  now  perfectly  satisfied  that  we  had  struck  the  stream  on  which 
Mr.  Sutter  lived  ;  and,  turning  about,  made  a  hard  push,  and  reached  the 
camp  at  dark.  Here  we  had  the  pleasure  to  find  all  the  remaining  animals, 
57  in  number,  safely  arrived  at  the  grassy  hill  near  the  camp  ;  and  here, 
also,  we  were  agreeably  surprised  with  the  sight  of  an  abundance  of  salt. 
Some  of  the  horse  guard  had  gone  to  a  neighboring  hut  for  pine  nuts,  and 
discovered  unexpectedly  a  large  cakcof  very  white  line-grained  salt,  which 
the  Indians  told  them  they  hud  brought  from  the  other  side  of  the  moun- 
tain ;  they  used  it  to  eat  with  their  pine  nuts,  and  readily  sold  it  for  goods. 

On  the  19th,  the  people  were  occupied  in  making  a  road  and  bringing  up 
the  baggage  ;  and,  on  the  afternoon  oi"  the  next  day,  February  20, 1844,  we 
encamped  with  the  animals  and  all  the  materiel  of  the  camp,  on  the  summit 
of  the  Pass  in  tht  dividing  ridge,  1,000  miles  by  our  travelled  road  from 
the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia. 

The  people,  who  had  not  yet  been  to  this  point,  climbed  the  neighboring 
peak  to  enjoy  a  look  at  the  valley. 

The  temperature  of  boiling  water  gave  for  the  elevation  of  the  encamp- 
ment 9,338  feet  above  the  sea. 

This  was  2,000  feet  higher  than  the  South  Pass  in  the  Rocky  mountains, 
and  several  peaks  in  view  rose  several  thousand  feel  still  higher.  Thus,  at 
the  extremity  of  the  continent,  and  near  the  coast,  the  phenomenon  was 
seen  of  a  range  of  mountains  still  higher  than  the  great  Rocky  mountains 
themselves.  This  extraordi-nary  fact  accounts  fop  the  Great  Basin,  and 
shows  that  there  must  be  a  system  of  small  lakes  and  rivers  here  scattered 
over  a  flat  country,  and  which  the  extended  and  lofty  range  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  prevents  from  escaping  to  the  Pacific  ocean.  Latitude  SS''  44' ; 
longitude  120°  28'. 

Thus  this  Pass  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  which  so  well  deserves  its  name 
of  Snowy  mountain,  is  eleven  degrees  west  and  about  four  degrees  south 
of  the  South  Pass. 


f.^- 


M^ 


2,J0 


CAIT.   KUKMUNI-H  NAISKAl'IVK. 


[1844. 


Fi'hnairif  21. — \Vv  mow  considrrrtl  oiirsclvrH  virtorlouH  over  Jlio  riu^in- 
tain  ;  li;ivin<;  onlv  the  dt'scent  Ix'lorc  us,  and  the  valley  tindtir  our  vyva^  we 
lelt  strot);;  Un\w  that  \V(!  should  lorce  our  way  down,  itut  this  was  a  case 
in  which  \\\v  dcM'jrjt  wan  not  facile.  Still  deep  Ciolds  of  snow  lay  helwcen, 
and  (here  was  a  lat^(>  interveiiit)^  space  i-i  rou!;h-looUiiifr  mountains,  thron;;li 
which  w(>  had  yd  to  wind  our  way.  (Watson  loused  nic  this  morning;  with 
an  eaily  liic',aMil  wr  were  all  U|>long  heloic  day,  in  order  to  pass  the  snow 
fields  hrlore  the  sun  should  lender  the?  crust  soft.  We  enjoyed  this  morn- 
ing a  scene,  at  sum  ise,  which  even  here  w  as  unusually  glorious  and  heaiili- 
ful.  Imnuuliatcly  ahove  the  eastern  nuxnitains  was  repented  a  cloud-lormcd 
mass  ol  purple  ratifies,  hordercMl  with  hriuht  yellow  ^old  ;  the  peaks  sjiot 
up  into  a  nairow  line  ol"  crinjson  cloud,  ahove  which  the  air  was  (Hied  with 
a  greenish  oran>;e  ;  and  over  all  was  iIk;  sin}j;ular  heauty  of  the  blue  sky. 
Passing  along  a  ridge  which  commandcMl  the  lake  on  our  right,  ol  which 
we  began  to  discover  an  outlet  through  a  chasm  on  the  west,  we  passed 
over  alternating  open  ground  and  hard-crusted  snow  fields  which  support- 
ed the  animals,  and  encamped  on  the  ridge  altera  journey  of  G  miles.  The 
grass  was  belter  than  we  had  yet  seen,  and  we  were;  encamped  in  a  clump 
of  trees  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high,  resend)ling  white  pine.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  these  small  clumps,  the  ridges  were  bare ;  and,  w  here  the  snow  found 
the  8up])ort  of  the  trees,  the  wind  had  lilown  it  up  into  banks  ten  or  fifteen 
feet  high.  It  retjuired  much  care  to  hinil  out  a  practicable  way,  as  the 
most  open  places  Ireijuently  led  to  impassable  banks. 

We  had  hard  and  doubtiul  labor  yet  before  us,  as  the  snow  appeared  to 
be  heavier  where  (he  timber  began  lurther  down,  with  few  open  spots. 
Ascending  a  height,  we  traced  out  the  best  line  we  could  discover  for  the 
next  day^s  march,  and  had  at  least  the  consolation  to  sec  that  the  mountain 
descended  rai)idly.  'I'he  day  had  been  one  of  April  ;  gusty,  with  a  few  oc- 
casional (lakes  of  snow;  which,  in  the  alternoon,  enveloped  the  upj)er 
mountain  in  clouds.  We  watched  them  anxiously,  as  now  we  dreaded  a 
snow  storm.  Shortly  afterwards  we  heard  the  roll  of  thunder,  and,  looking 
towards  the  valley,  (^ound  it  all  enveloped  in  a  thunder  storm.  Fov  us,  as 
connected  with  the  idea  of  summer,  it  bad  a  singular  charm;  and  we  watch- 
ed its  progress  with  excited  feelings  until  nearly  sunset, when  the  sky  clear- 
ed off  brightly,  and  we  saw  a  shining  line  of  water  directing  its  course  to- 
wards another,  a  broader  and  larger  sheet.  We  knew  that  these  could  be 
no  other  than  the  Sacramento  and  the  bay  of  San  Francisco  ;  but,  after  our 
long  wandering  in  rugged  mountains,  w  here  so  (requently  we  had  met  with 
disappointments,  and  where  the  crossing  of  every  ridge  disj)layed  some  un- 
known lake  or  river,  we  were  yet  almost  afraid  to  believe  that  we  were  at 
last  to  escape  into  the  genial  country  ot  which  we  had  heard  so  many 
glowing  descriptions,  and  dreaded  again  to  find  seme  vast  interior  lake, 
whose  bitter  waters  would  ^riiig  us  disappointment.  On  the  southern  shore 
of  what  appeared  to  be  the  bay  could  be  traced  the  gleaming  line  where 
entered  another  large  stream  ;  and  again  the  Buenaventura  rose  up  in  our 
minds. 

Carson  had  entered  the  valley  along  the  southern  side  of  the  bay,  and  re- 
membered perfectly  to  have  crossed  the  mouth  of  a  very  large  stream, 
which  they  had  been  obliged  to  raft  ;  but  the  country  then  was  so  entirely 
covered  with  water  from  snow  and  rain,  that  he  had  been  able  to  form  no 
correct  impression  of  watercourses. 

We  had  the  satisfaction  to  know  that  at  least  there  were  people  below . 


1644.] 


CAI'T.  FUr.MO.NT'M  NARKATIVK. 


ii'ii 


ir  cyrH,  Wo 
was  a  case 
Y  hetvvccii, 
nM,thr()n;j;li 
riling  with 
s  tlio  snow 
(his  fiiom- 
find  boaiili- 
)U(l-(oiin(>(l 
peaks  shot 
iill(>(l  Willi 
)  blun  sky. 
t,  of  which 
wo  passed 
zh  suppoil- 
riilos.  The 
in  a  cliiin)) 
the  excep- 
snow  found 
n  or  fifteen 
ivay,  as  the 

ippcarcd  to 
)[)en  spots. 
)ver  for  the 
e  nioiintaiii 
h  a  few  oc- 
the  upper 
dreaded  a 
id,  looking 
For  us,  as 
we  watch - 
sky  clear- 
course  to- 
jc  could  be 
t,  after  our 
d  met  with 
d  some  un- 
kve  were  at 
d  so  many 
erior  lake, 
hern  shore 
line  where 
i  up  in  our 

ay,  and  re- 
ge  stream, 
so  entirely 
to  form  no 

pie  below. 


FiroH  were  lit  up  in  tlu;  valley  Just  at  nit^ht,  ajipearin^  to  he  in  anftwer  to 
ours;  and  (hes(!  signs  of  life  rtix-wed,  in  soni«>  nieiisure,  the  ^>y(!(y  of  thn 
camp.  They  appealed  so  near,  (hat  we  judf^ttd  iImmu  (o  Ik;  among  (he  tim- 
ber of  souio  t)f  (h(!  neighhorini;  i  idges  ;  but,  having  them  constanlly  in  view 
day  alter  day,  and  night  altei  night,  we  aKerwaids  found  (hem  lo  Ix;  (ires 
that  had  \>v.v.i\  kindled  by  the  Indians  among  the  /(//art  v,  tm  the  shore  of 
the  bay,  HO  miles  distant. 

Anu)ng  the  very  lew  plants  that  appealed  here,  wut*  the  eoinmou  blue 
flux.     To-nighl,  a  mule  was  kilh  d  li>r  food. 

Fihruai'))  22. — Om  bieaklast  was  over  long  before  d.iy.  VVc  took  ad- 
vah(iiij;e  ol  (he  coolness  ol  (be  early  morning  to  get  over  (lie  snow,  which 
(o-day  ocx'urred  in  very  tieep  banks  among  (lit;  limber  ;  but  we  s(!archc<l 
out  the  coldest  places,  and  ihe  animals  passed  succ(;ssfnlly  with  (lieii  loads 
the  hard  crust.  Now  and  (hen,  (he  delay  of  making  a  road  occasioned 
much  labor  and  loss  ol  lime.  In  the  aller  part  of  the  day,  we  saw  before 
us  >i  handsome  grassy  t  id'.;e  point ;  and,  making  a  des|)(jrati!  push  over  a 
snow  lield  10  to  15  le<'t  deep,  \v(;  happily  sncceediMl  in  gelling  the  camp 
across  ;  and  encaiupod  on  the  i  idg",  after  a  march  of  (hrcje  miles.  We  had 
again  the  prospect  ol  a  ihuiidei  sioi  iii  below  ;  ami  to-night  we  killed  another 
mule — now  our  only  k.souici'  from  starvation. 

We  satisfied  ourselves  during  the  day  that  the  lake  had  an  outlet  be- 
tween two  ranges  on  ihe  ri^lit ;  and  with  this,  the  creek  on  which  I  had 
encamped  probably  oHeitiMl  .i  junction  below.  Hetween  these,  we  were 
descending. 

We  continued  to  ciijo}  (he  same  delighdiil  wealhcM  ;  (ho  sky  oi  the  same 
beautiful  blue,  and  such  a  sunset  and  sunrise  as  on  our  .Vtluniie  coast  we 
could  scarcely  imagine.  And  lu'-ie  among  the  mountains,  D,()00  feet  above 
the  sea,  we  haNo  the  deep-blue,  sky  and  sunny  climate  of  Smyrna  and 
Palermo,  which  a  little  map  before  me  sho\\.s  are  in  the  same  lautudo. 

The  elevation  above  the  sea,  by  the  boiling  point,  is  Hj.'ifj.'i  feet. 

Februai'y  2o. — This  was  our  most  dillicult  day  :  we  were  forced  oil  the 
ridges  by  the  (juantity  ol  snow  among  the  timber,  and  obliged  to  lake  to 
the  mountain  sides,  whore,  occasionally,  rocks  and  a  southern  e.\posure  af- 
forded us  u  chance  to  s(!iami)le  along.  Hut  these  were  stocp,  and  slippery 
with  snow  and  ice  ;  and  ihe  tough  evergreens  of  the  mountain  impeded 
our  way,  tore  our  skins,  and  (.'.vbatisted  our  patience.  Some  of  us  had  the 
misfortune  to  wear  moccaains  with  parjhche  soles,  so  slippery  that  wo  could 
not  keep  our  feet,  and  generally  crawled  across  the  snow  beds,  -\xesand 
mauls  weie  necessary  to-day,  to  make  a  road  through  tin'  snow.  Going 
ahead  with  Carson  to  reconnoitre  the  road,  we  reached  in  the  afternoon  the 
river  wliich  made  the  outlet  of  ihe  lake.  Carson  sprang  over,  clear  across 
a  place  where  the  stream  was  compressed  among  rocks,  but  the  parjlcche 
sole  of  my  moccasin  glanced  from  the  icy  rock,  and  precipitated  ine  into  the 
river.  It  was  some  lew  seconds  before  I  could  recover  myself  in  the  cur- 
rent, and  Carson,  thinking  me  hurt,  jirmped  in  after  me,  and  we  both  had 
an  icy  bath.  We  tried  to  search  a  while  for  my  gun,  which  had  been  lost 
in  the  fall,  but  the  cold  drove  us  out ;  and  making  a  large  lire  on  the  bank, 
after  we  had  partially  dried  ourselves  we  went  back  to  meet  the  camp. 
We  afterwards  found  that  the  gun  had  been  slung  under  the  ice  which 
lined  the  banks  of  the  ci  eek. 

Using  our  old  plan  of  breaking  the  road  with  alternate  horses,  we  reached 
the  creek  in  the  evening,  and  encamped  on  a  dry  open  place  in  the  ravine. 


•4.' 

,tiv 


V. 

\ 

I 


•V 

I. 

■ii'. 

t. 

■t 
*{< 


ft' 


^'i 


i.-    .  . 

•  \ 


Qi'i 


CAPT.  FUKMONTtt  NAUKATIVE. 


1644. 


Anothor  hrancli,  which  wo  h.-nl  IoIIowcmI,  hern  coinos  in  on  tho  left ;  and 
from  this  point  the  niountiiin  wall, on  which  we  h.\il  travelled  to-day,  I'acot 
to  the  south  alon^  tlu;  li^ht  hank  ot  the  livt'r,  wheit?  the  nmii  appears  to 
have  tnelled  the  snow  ;  hut  the  opposite  rid^c  is  entirely  covered.  Ifero, 
anion^  the  pines,  the  hill  side  produces  hut  little  ^rass — harely  siiilieient 
to  keep  life  in  the  aniin.ds.  \Ve  h.id  th(.>  pleaMue  to  he  rained  upon  this 
altertioon  ;  and  grass  was  now  our  ;;t<a((st  solicitude.  Many  ui'  the  men 
looked  hadly  ;  and  some  this  ev<.>ning  wer(>  givin*^  out. 

Fchrnarij  l\. — We  rose  at  thrtu;  in  the  niornini;,  for  an  aMtronomieuioh- 
Horvation,  and  ohtained  lor  the  place  a  laliludt;  ol  .]H^  IG'  .OH"  ;  longitude 
120"  .'31'  iO  ".  The  sky  was  clear  and  puie,  with  a  sharp  wind  from  the 
northeast,  and  the  thermometer  2*^  helow  the  freezing  point. 

VVc  continued  down  the  south  face  of  the  mountain  ;  our  road  leading 
over  dry  ground,  we  were  ahle  to  avoid  the  snow  al'^osl  entirely.  In  the 
course  of  the  morning,  we  struck  a  foot  path,  which  we  were  generally  ahle 
to  ke(;p  ;  and  the  ground  was  soft  to  our  aiiinials'  feet,  heing  sandy  or  cover- 
ed with  mould,  (ireen  grass  hegan  to  make  its  ap|)earance,  and  occasion- 
ally we  passed  a  hill  scatteringly  covered  with  it.  The  character  of  the 
forest  continued  the  same;  an(i,  iimoni;  the  trees,  the  pine  with  sharp 
leaves  and  veiy  large  cones  wasahundanf,  some  of  them  heing  nol)le  trees. 
We  measuied  one  that  had  10  feet  diameter,  though  the  height  was  not 
more  than  I  JO  leet.  All  along,  tho  river  was  a  roaring  torrent,  its  fall 
very  great;  and,  descending  with  a  rapidity  to  which  we  had  long  been 
strangers,  to  our  great  pleasure  oak  trees  appealed  on  the  ridge,  and  soon 
became  veiy  frecjuent ;  on  these  I  reiuaikcd  unusually  great  (juaniitics  of 
mistletoe.  Hushes  hegan  to  make  their  appearance  ;  and  at  ii  small  creek 
wheic  they  were  abundant,  one  of  the  messes  was  left  with  the  weakest 
horses,  while  we  continued  on. 

The  opposite  mountain  side  wa.^  very  steep  and  continuous — unbroken 
by  ravines,  and  covered  with  pines  and  snow  ;  while  on  the  side  wc  were 
travelling,  innumeiable  rivulets  poured  down  from  the  ridge.  Continuing 
on,  we  halted  a  moment  at  one  of  thefe  i  i\  ulels,  to  iidtnite  some  beautiful 
evergreen  tires,  i esembling  live  oak,  which  shaded  the  little  sticam.  They 
were  forty  to  (ilty  feet  high,  and  two  in  diameter,  with  a  uniform  tufted  top; 
and  the  summer  green  ot  their  beautiful  foliage,  with  the  singing  birds,  and 
the  sweet  summer  wind  which  was  whirling  about  the  dry  oak  leaves, 
nearly  intoxicated  us  with  delight ;  and  we  hurried  on,  tilled  with  excite- 
ment, to  escape  entirely  from  the  horrid  region  of  inhospitable  snow,  to  the 
perpetual  spring  of  the  Sacramento. 

When  we  had  travelled  about  ten  miles,  the  valley  opened  a  little  to  an 
oak  and  pine  bottom,  through  which  ran  rivulets  closely  bordered  with 
rushes,  on  which  our  half-starved  horses  fell  with  avidity ;  and  here  we 
made  our  encampment.  Here  the  roaring  torrent  has  already  become  a 
river,  and  we  had  descended  to  an  elevation  of  3,864  feet. 

Along  our  road  to-day  the  rock  was  a  white  granite,  which  appears  to 
constitute  the  upper  p^rt  of  the  mountain:  on  both  the  eastern  and  western 
slopes ;  while  between,  the  central  is  a  volcanic  rock. 

Another  horse  was  killed  to-night,  for  food. 

February  25. — Believing  that  the  dilKculties  of  the  road  were  passed, 
and  leiving  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  to  follow  slowly,  as  the  condition  of  the  ani- 
mals required,  I  started  ahead  this  morning  with  a  party  of  eight,  consist- 
ing (with  myself)  of  Mr.  Preussand  Mr,  Talbot,  Curson,  Derosier,  Towns, 


1844.] 


CAPT.  FRKMONT'H  NARRATIVE. 


993 


c  left ;  and 
(lay,  I'aoei 
appears  to 
ed.  Hero, 
y  MiiHriciU 
I  upon  (his 
dI'  the  nini 

loinicuioh- 
;  Inn^itiuU; 
I  from  tho 

ad  leading 
ly.  In  th(> 
lerally  uhlo 
y  or  covtii- 
d  occasion- 
I'tcr  of  the 
with  shaip 
lohle  trees. 
;ht  was  not 
ent,  its  tall 

lon^  been 
;e,  and  soon 
uantitics  ot' 
umall  creek 

ic  weakest 

-unbroken 
le  wo  were 
Continuing 
10  beautiful 
am.  They 
tufted  top; 
j  birds,  and 
)ak  leaves, 
b^ith  excite- 
now,  to  the 

little  to  an 
rlered  with 
J  here  we 

become  a 

appears  to 
nd  western 


Me  passed, 
of  the  ani- 
;ht,  consist- 
er,  Towns, 


Prouo,  and  .Iik oh.  We  took  with  us  some  of  the  bo^t  uniiniiis,  and  my  in* 
tention  wan  to  ptncred  ah  rapidly  as  possihh;  (o  liu;  house  of  Mr.  Suttei, 
and  r'>lurn  to  meet  the  party  with  a  iiipply  ol  pidviNions  arul  IVehh  animaU. 

Continuin^do^vn  the  ri\er,  whirh  pursued  a  very  dircel  woNtcrly  coiitse 
through  u  narrow  valley,  with  only  a  wiy  slight  and  narrow  bottom  land, 
wc  made  twelve  miles,  and  eneamped  at  some  old  Indian  huls,  apparently 
u  fishing  plite(!  on  the  liver.  The  bottom  wiis  eovei(;d  with  trees  of  de- 
ciduous fuliagt;,  and  overgrown  with  vin(!sand  rushes.  On  a  betich  of  the 
hill  near  by,  was  a  field  of  fiesh  green  glass,  six  inches  long  in  some  of  ihe 
tuft8  which  I  had  the  ruiiosity  to  measure.  The  animals  were  driven 
here  ;  and  1  ,s|)ent  pait  of  the  afternoon  sitting  on  a  large  rock  among 
them,  erjjoying  the  paubeiess  rapidity  with  wlm-h  they  luxuiiateti  in  the 
unaccustomed  lood. 

The  forest  was  im|)osing  to-day  in  lh(!  magiiifu'ence  of  the  trees  ;  sonie 
of  the  pines,  l)earir)g  large  cones,  were  10  feet  in  diameter  ;  cedar j  also 
abouruied,  and  we  measured  one  2ti':  feet  in  circumference  four  feet  from 
the  ground.  This  noble  trc(!  seemed  hei(!  to  be  in  its  |)rop(>r  soil  and  cli- 
mate. VVc  found  it  on  both  sides  of  the  Siena,  but  most  abundant  on  the 
west. 

Febninrt/  2i\. — \Ve  continued  to  follow  the  strenm,  the  mountains  on 
either  hand  increasing  ir)  height  as  s\e  descended,  and  shutting  up  the 
river  nairowly  in  precipices,  along  which  we  had  j^rcat  dilliculty  to  ^et 
our  horses. 

It  rained  heavily  during  the  afternoon,  and  we  were  forced  off  the  river 
to  the  heights  above  ;  whence  we  descei»d(!(l,  at  night-fall,  the  point  of  a 
spur  between  the  river  and  a  foik  of  nearly  crjual  si/e,  coming  in  from  the 
right.  Hero  we  saw,  on  the  lower  hills,  the  iirst  tlowcrs  in  bloom,  which 
occurred  suddenly,  and  in  considerable  (pianlity  ;  one  of  them  a  species  of 
gilia. 

Thfa  current  in  both  streams  (rather  torrents  than  rivers)  was  broken  by 
large  boulders.  It  was  late,  and  the  animals  fatigued  ;  ant!  not  succeeding 
to  find  a  forfl  immediately,  we  encamped,  altiiou^ih  the  hill  side  allorded 
but  a  lew  stray  buMc'ics  of  grass,  and  the  horses,  standing  about  in  the 
rain,  looked  very  "uiserable. 

February  21. — We  succeeded  in  fording  (he  stream,  and  made  a  trail  by 
which  we  crossed  the  point  of  the  opposite  hill,  which,  on  the  southern 
exposure,  was  prettily  covered  with  green  grass,  and  we  halted  a  mile  from 
our  last  encampment.  The  liver  was  only  about  sixty  feet  wide,  but  rapid, 
and  occasionally  deep,  foaming  among  boulders,  and  the  water  beautitully 
clear.  We  encamped  on  the  hill  slope,  as  (here  was  no  bottom  level,  and 
the  opposite  ridge  is  continuous,  affording  no  streams. 

We  had  wi(h  us  a  large  kettle  ;  and  a  mule  being  killed  here,  his  head 
was  boiled  in  it  for  several  hours,  and  made  a  passable  soup  for  famished 
people. 

Below,  precipices  on  the  liver  forced  us  to  the  heights,  which  we  as- 
cended by  a  steep  spur  2,000  feet  high.  My  favorite  horse,  Proveaii,  had 
become  very  weak,  and  \\  as  scarcely  able  to  bring  himself  to  the  top.  Trav- 
elling here  was  good,  except  in  crossing  the  ravines,  which  were  narrow, 
steep,  and  frequent.  We  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  deer,  the  first  animal  we 
had  seen  ;  but  did  not  succeed  in  approaching  him.  Proveau  could  not 
keep  up,  and  I  left  Jacob  to  bring  him  on,  being  obliged  to  press  forward 
with  the  party,  as  there  was  no  grass  in  the  forest.  We  grew  very  anxious 
as  Uio  day  au»unctJ  aiid  iio  gratis  a^ptared,  for  the  lives  of  our  aaiiuab 


»*' 


I 


!• 


"^i< 


..V 


I: 


u^ 


CAIT.  FHEMONTH  NAKRATiVK. 


[I8K 

(It'pcntlod  on  findint;  it  (o-ni^ht.  They  were  in  junt  Mueh  n  >on(ii(ion  tlml 
^rasM  und  irpoMo  lot  the  hi^hl  tnaMcd  \\wm  to  ^(•t  oii  the  iirxt  lay.  KvtMy 
hour  we  had  l)c>(MU'X|)('('tiiif;  to  sec  open  out  hcloio  usthi;  van<>y,uhii;h,  Iroin 
lhi>  luotintaii)  ahovc,  HOMitcd  aiuio.st  at  our  i'ov.i.  A  nuw  and  Niit^idai  Hhrnh, 
which  had  iiiadu  ilN  appciraiu  u  >iiu*L*  crossing  (hi;  niouiitaiti,  \va««  vrry  trc- 
(jiK.'nt  to-thiy.  It  hratichcd  out  iirar  tho  ground,  foiinitig  a  rlitinp  eight  to 
ttn  Icet  lugh,  with  pah>gi(M  ii  liavivs  ol  uti  oval  Ibrin  ,  atid  Iho  hody  and 
hranchuN  had  a  naked  appcainticr,  as  it  N(ripp(>d  ot  tli<>  hark,  which  is  wry 
Miioolh  and  thin,  ol  a  chocolad-  cohir,  conlraHling  uctl  with  (ho  p.do  green 
ol  the  U'uvcs.  The  day  was  ncMiiy  gon(>  ;  wr  had  inadr  a  hard  day^r*  march, 
and  found  no  grasM.  Towns  hccanii!  light-hcadid,  wandciit)^  oil  into  tho 
woods  \Nithoni  knowing  where  hi>  was  going,  and  .lac«>l>  l/ioiighl  htiu  hack. 

Near  night  lall  wc  descended  into  the  t^tei  p  ravine  ol  a  handsotnc  creek 
thirty  lut'l  wide,  and  I  was  <Mig:tgod  in  getting  llx;  horses  up  tlu;  opposite 
hill,  wlxMi  I  heard  a  shout  tioiu  (Jarsun,  who  had  g()ti(>  ahead  a  lew  hun* 
dred  yards — ''liilc  yet,"  sai<l  ho,  us  he  came  i:p,  *'  lile  yet  ;  I  have  lound  n 
hill  side  sprinkled  with  grass  enough  tor  the  niu,ht."  Wv.  diove  idong  our 
horses,  and  encamped  at  the  place  ahout  dark,  and  t'.iere  was  just  room 
(>n()Ugh  to  make  a  place  lor  >lieltei  on  (he  edge  ol  the  stream,  'i'hree 
horses  were  lost  to-day — I'loveau  ;  a  line  young  horse  IVdiii  flu;  Columbia, 
belonging  to  Charles  Towns;  and  another  Indian  horse  which  ciuriedour 
cooking  utensils  ;  the  two  lonner  gave  out,  and  the  latter  .sliayed  oil'  into 
the  woods  as  we  rea<:hed  lh(>   camp. 

February  21). — \N'«.'  lay  shut  iif)  in  tlu;  narrow  ravine,  and  gave  the  ani- 
mals a  necessary  tlay  ;  and  men  w(  re  sent  back  allci  the  otheis.  I)(  rosier 
volunteered  to  bring  up  I'rovrau,  to  whom  he  knew  I  was  greatly  attach- 
ed, as  he  had  been  my  favorite  horse  on  both  expeditions.  Carson  and  I 
climbed  one  of  the  ii((!ii  est  mountains  ;  thcfoieyt  land  still  extended  ahead, 
and  the  valley  appeared  ms  lar  as  ever.  The  pack  burse  was  luund  near 
the  camp,  but  Derosier  did  not  got  in. 

March  1. — Derosier  did  .lot  get  in  during  tlio  iiigbt,  and  leaving  him  to 
follow,  as  no  grass  remained  heie,  we  coniiiuuil  on  over  the  uplands,  cross- 
ing many  small  streams,  and  camped  again  on  the  liver,  having  made  G 
miles.  Here  we  found  the  hill  side  covered  (although  lightly)  withiicsh 
green  grass  ;  and  from  this  time  forward  we  found  it  always  improving 
and  abundant. 

We  made  a  pleasant  camp  on  the  river  hill,  whore  were  some  beautiful 
specimens  of  the  chocolate-colored  shrul),  which  were  a  foot  in  diameter 
near  the  ground,  and  lilleen  to  twenty  feet  high.  The  opposite  ridge  runs 
continuously  along,  unbroken  b\  streams.  We  are  rapidly  descending  into 
the  spring,  and  we  are  leaving  our  snowy  region  far  behind  ;  every  thing  is 
getting  green  ;  butterllies  are  sv  arming;  numerous  bugs  arc  creeping  out, 
wakened  from  their  winter's  sleep  ;  and  the  foiest  flowers  are  coming  into 
bloom.  Among  those  which  ai)i)eared  most  numerously  to-day  \\A3<hde- 
ca  til  eon  dentatum. 

We  began  to  be  uneasy  at  Dorosier's  absence,  fearing  he  might  have 
been  bewildered  in  the  woods.  Charles  Towns,  who  hail  not  yet  recovered 
his  mind,  went  to  swim  in  the  river,  as  if  it  were  sunuucr,  and  the  stream 
placid,  when  it  was  a  cold  mountain  torrent  foa.niiig  among  locks.  We 
were  happy  to  see  Derosier  appear  in  the  evening.  He  came  in,  and,  sitting 
down  by  the  fire,  began  to  tell  us  where  he  had  been.  He  imagined  he 
had  been  gone  seveial  days,  i.nd  thought  we  were  still  at  the  camp  where 


1844.] 


CAI'T.  FIIKMONT  8  NARFIATIVK. 


875 


ilitioM  that 
ly.   KviMy 

hirli,  Iroii) 
iliM  shnih, 
•'  wry  iiv- 
i|i  (Mght  to 
\uu\y  (111(1 
i<'h  is  vi'iv 
mIo  ^^o^'r» 
y'i  march, 
tV  into  tiio 
liiiu  hack. 
)iae  creek 
I)  opposite 
I  few  hun- 
ve  lound  n 
along  our 
just  room 
I.  Three 
Coliitnhiii, 
Miriod  oui 
.'(I  oil  into 

c  the  ani- 
l)(  rosier 
[\\  attach- 
rsoti  and  I 
lorl  iihcad, 
jutul   near 

in;;  him  to 
ids,  cross- 
ig  made  G 
with  iresh 
mproving 

heautiful 

diameter 

idfie  runs 

riding  into 

y  thing  is 

l)ing  out, 

ming  into 

was  (lode- 

<i;ht  have 
ecovered 
le  stream 
;ks.  We 
id,  sitting 
ijiined  he 
np  where 


he  IkuI  lelt  \\s  ;  and  we  were  pninrd  to  >co  thai  hin  mind  wai  dernngrd.  It 
appeared  that  he  had  heen  lont  in  the  iiionulain,  and  fiungor  and  latigiie, 
joined  to  \\r.iktu<«s  ol  body,  and  leal  ol  piii^liiii;^  in  ijw*  motinlaini,  hid 
cia/ed  him.  Thi^  limefl  were  Hevcrt*  when  ^(uiit  men  lost  their  mindM  Ironi 
extremity  of  Hull'ring — when  ln)rHe««  died  and  when  mides  and  hornefi, 
ready  to  die  ol  wtarvalion,  \\«'re  kilted  lor  food.  Vet  there  was  no  mur- 
muring or  lii'oii;i(ii)ti. 

A  hhort  dJHlafue  ludow  our  (>ncampment,  the  river  mountains  terminated 
in  precipiceft,  and,  alter  a  lati^tiirtg  m.irrh  ol drdy  a  lew  tnile.i,  we  encamped 
on  a  heneh  whtrre  there  were  siptingM  and  an  abundance  of  the  Ireshe.it 
grass.  In  tlu*  mean  lime,  Mr.  I'reusM  continued  on  <lowti  tlie  river,  ami, 
unaware  that  we  had  encamped  «()  early  in  the  day,  was  lost.  When  night 
urrive<I,  atid  he  ihd  not  come  in,  w«!  began  to  underht.md  what  had  hap* 
pened  to  him  ;  but  it  was  ton  I.Uo  to  make  any  Nenrch. 

March  3.    -We  followed  Mt.  I'reuss's  trail  lor  a  con>ideral)lo  distance 
along  the  river,  until  wo  riMched  a  place  where  he  had  di.'scended  to  the 
slicam  b(dow  and  encaiiipiMl.    Here  we  shouted  and  limd  guns,  but  leceived 
no  answer  ;   and  we  conclude*!  that  he  had  pushed  on  down  the  stream.     I 
determined  to  keep  out  Ironi  th(>  river,  along  which  it  wa«)  nearly  impracti* 
cable  to  travel  witii  animals,  until  it  should  form  a  valley.      .\t  every  step 
the  Country  improied  in  beauty  ;  the  pines  wen*  rapidly  disappearing,  and 
oaks  became  llie  pi  iiici|)al  trees  ol  the  forest.     Annnig  these,  the  prevailing 
tree  was  the  evergrc^en  oak,  (  which,  by  way  of  diitinction,  we  shall  call  the 
lire  oak  ;)  and  with  these, occurred  l'rei|iiently  a  iu;w  species  of  oak  hearing 
a  long  slender  acorn,  from  an  imdi  to  an   iiudi  and  a  li.'lf  in  length,  which 
we  now  began  to  He(!  foiiiied  the  principal  vegetable  food  of  the  inhabitants 
of  this  region.     In  a  shoit  distance  we  crossed  a  little  rivulet,  where  were 
two  old  huts,  and  near  by  were  heaps  of  acorn  hulls.      The  ground  round 
about  was  very  licb,  covered  with  an  exuberant  sward  ol   grass;  and  wo 
sat  down  for  a  wbiU,'  in  the  shade  ol"  the  oaks,  to  hit  the  animals  toed.     Wc 
repeated  our  .shouts  for  Mr.  I'reiiss;  and  this  time  we  were  gratified  with 
an  answer.     'I'lie  voice  grew  rapidly  nearer,  ascending  from  the  river  ;  hut 
when  wo  expected  to  see  him  einei  re,  it  ceased  entirely.   We  had  called  up 
some  straggling  Indian — the  lir.st  we  had  met,  although  for  two  days  back 
w'l:  had  seen  tracks — who,  mistaking  us  for  his  fellows,  had  been  only  un- 
deceived on  getting  close  up.     It  would  have  been  pleasant  to  witness  his 
astonishment;  he  would  not  have  been  more  riightencd  had  some  of  the 
old  mountain  spirits  they  are  so  much  afraid  of  suddenly  appeared  in  his 
path.     Ignoiant  of  the  character  of  these  people,  w<i  had  now  an  additional 
cause  of  uneasiness  in  regard  to  Mr.  Preuss ;  he  had  no  arms  with  him,  and 
wc  began  to  third;  his  chance  doubtful.    We  followed  on  a  trail,  still  keep- 
ing out  from  the  river,  and  descended  to  a  very  large  creek,  dashing  with 
great  velocity  over  a  pre-eminently  rocky  bed  and  among  large  boulders. 
The  bed  had  sudden  breaks,  formed  by  deep  holes  and  ledges  of  rock  run- 
ning across.  Even  here,  it  deserves  the  name  of  Aioc/i:  creek,  which  we  gave 
to  it.    We  succeeded  in  fording  it,  and  toiled  about  three  thousand  feet  up 
the  opposite  hill.     The  mountains  now  were  getting  sensibly  lower;  but 
still  there  is  no  valley  on  the  river,  which  presents  steep  ar  d  rocky  banks  ; 
but  hert  ,  several  miles  from  the  river,  the  country  is  smooth  and  grassy; 
the  forest  has  no  undergrowth;  and  in  the  open  valleys  of  rivulets,  o:  around 
spring  heads,  the  low  groves  of  live  oak  give  the  appearance  of  orchards 
in  an  old  cultivated  country.     Occasionally  we  met  deer,  but  had  not  the 
15 


•V- 


226 


CAPT.  FREaIONTS  NARRATIVE, 


[1844. 


s?) 


necessary  time  for  liuntin/;.  At  one  of  tliesc  orchard  grounds,  wo  encamped 
about  noon  to  make  an  cHoit  for  Mr.  Freuss,  One  man  took  his  way  along 
a  spur  Icadinf;  into  the  river,  in  hopi;  to  crosb  his  trail ;  and  another  took 
our  own  hack.  Both  were  volunteers  ;  and  to  the  i^ucce^siul  man  was  prom- 
ised a  pair  of  pistols — not  as  a  reward,  hut  as  a  token  of  gratitude  for  a 
service  which  would  free  us  all  from  much  anxiety. 

We  had  among  our  1(  w  animals  a  horse  which  was  so  much  reduced, 
that,  with  travelling,  even  the  good  grass  couUl  d  ^  save  him;  and,  having 
nothing  to  eat,  he  was  killed  this  afternoon,  lie  was  a  good  animal,  ana 
had  made  the  journey  round  from  Fort  Hall. 

Dodecutheon  detitdlutu  continued  the  charaoterislic  |)larit  in  flower;  arni 
the  naked-looking  shrub  already  mentioned  continued  cliaiactt  ristic,  hegii;- 
ning  to  put  forth  a  small  white  blossom.  At  evening  the  men  returned,  hav- 
ing seen  or  heard  nothing  of  Mr.  Preuss  ;  and  1  detertnined  to  make  a 
hard  push  down  the  river  the  next  morning,  and  get  ahead  of  him. 

March  4. — VVe  continued  rapidly  along  on  a  broad  plainly-beaten  trail, 
the  mere  travelling  and  breathing  the  delightlid  air  being  a  positive  enjoy- 
ment. Our  road  led  along  a  ridge  inclining  to  the  river,  and  the  air  and 
the  open  giounds  were  Ihigrant  with  llowe.ing  shru1)S  ;  and  in  the  course 
of  the  morning  we  issued  on  an  open  spur,  by  wliich  we  descended  directly 
to  the  stre-im.  Here  the  tiver  issues  suddenly  from  the  mountains,  whici 
hitherto  had  hemmed  it  closely  in  ;  these  now  become  softer,  and  change 
sensibly  their  character;  and  at  this  point  commences  the  most  beautiful 
vallv?v  in  which  we  had  ever  travelled.  VVe  hur'ied  to  the  river,  on  whicli 
we  noticed  a  snail  sand  beach,  to  which  Mr.  Preuss  would  naturally  have 
gone.  VVe  found  no  trace  of  him,  but,  instead,  were  recent  tracks  of  bare- 
iooted  Indians,  and  little  |)iles  of  muscle  shells,  and  old  tires  where  they 
had  roasted  the  fish.  VVe  travelled  on  over  the  river  grounds,  wiiich  were 
undulating,  and  covered  wiiii  grass  to  the  river  brink.  VV^e  halted  to  noon 
a  few  miles  beyond,  always  under  the  shade  of  the  evergreen  oak:,  which 
formed  open  groves  on  the  bottoms. 

Continuing  our  road  in  the  afternoon,  we  ascended  to  the  uplands,  whero 
the  river  passesround  a  |)oint  of  great  bt  auty ,  and  goes  through  very  remarka- 
ble dalles, in  character  resembling  those  of  the  Columbia.  Beyond,  we  again 
descended  to  the  bottoms,  where  we  found  an  Indian  village,  consisting  oi 
two  or  three  huts;  we  had  come  upon  them  suddenly,  and  the  people  had 
evidently  just  run  oft'.  The  huis  we'e  low  and  slight,  made  like  beehives 
in  a  picture,  five  or  six  feet  high,  and  near  each  was  a  crate,  formed  of  in- 
terlaced branches  and  grass,  in  size  and  shape  like  a  very  large  hogshead. 
Each  of  these  contained  from  ^ix  to  nine  bushels.  These  were  filled  witii 
the  long  acorns  already  mentioned,  and  in  the  huts  were  several  neatly 
made  baskets,  containing  quantities  of  the  acorns  roasted.  They  \»ere  sv  eet 
and  agreeably  flavored,  and  we  supplied  ourselves  w  ith  about  half  a  bushel, 
leaving  one  of  our  shirts,  a  handkerchief,  and  some  smaller  articles,  in  tix- 
change.  The  river  again  entered  for  a  space  among  hills,  anr'  we  followed 
a  trail  leading  across  a  bend  through  a  handsome  hollow  behind.  Here, 
while  engaged  in  trying  to  circumvent  a  deer,  we  discovered  some  Indianir 
on  a  hill  several  hundred  yards  ahead,  and  gave  them  a  shout,  to  whicia 
they  responded  by  loud  and  rapid  talking  and  vehement  gesti-^ulation,  but 
made  no  r  op,  hurrying  up  the  mountain  as  fast  as  their  legs  could  carry 
them.     V\''e  passed  on,  and  again  encainped  in  a  grassy  grove. 


I  was  prom- 
titudc  for  a 

li  reduced, 
and, having 
animal,  una 

flower;  and 
istic,  bcgiu- 
urned,  hav- 
to  make  a 
him. 

aeaten  trail, 
itiveenjoy- 
ihe  air  ana 
1  the  course 
ded  directly 
tains,  whic  1 
and  change 
st  beautilul 
3r,  on  whicij 
turally  havfc 
icksot'  bare- 
where  they 
wiiich  were 
ted  to  noot! 
oak: ,  whici: 

ands,  where 
ry  remarka- 

d,  we  again 
onsisting  ol 

people  had 
ke  beehivcir 
)rmed  of  in- 
e  hogshead, 
e  filled  with 
reral  neatly 

were  sv  ee»: 
alf  a  bushel, 

icles,  in  ox- 
i»'e  followed 

nd.  Here, 
ome  Indians 
jt,  to  which 
'.ulation,  but 
ouid  carrv 


i844.1  ('APT.  FREMONTd  NARKATIVF.  227 

The  absence  of  Mr.  I'reuss  gave  mo  great  concern  ;  and,  for  a  large  re- 
ward, Dero-sicr  volunteered  to  go  buck  on  the  trail.  I  diiected  him  to 
search  along  the  livcr,  travelling  upward  for  the  s[)ace  of  iiday  and  a  half, 
at  which  time  1  expected  he  would  Jiieet  Mr.  Fitzpatc  ick,  whom  1  requested 
to  aid  in  the  search  ;  at  all  event.s,  he  was  to  go  no  farlhci,  but  return  to 
this  canjp,  where  a  cache  of  provisions  was  luadu  for  him. 

Continuing  the  next  day  down  the  river,  we  discovered  three  squaws  in 
a  little  lK)tt()in,and  surrounded  them  before  they  couM  make  their  escape. 
They  h;id  largo  conical  baskets,  which  they  were  engaged  in  fdling  with  a 
small  leafy  plant  {trodiuni  ci cularium)  juat  now  beginning  to  bloom,  and 
covering  the  ground  like  a  swsrd  of  grass.  These. did  not  make  any 
lamentations,  but  appeared  very  much  impressed  with  our  appearance, 
speaking  to  us  only  in  a  whi.sper,  and  olferirig  us  smaller  baskets  of  the 
plant,  'vhich.they  sigrsified  to  us  was  good  to  eat,  making  signs  also  that  it 
was  to  be  cooked  by  the  fire.  We  drew  out  a  little  cold  horse  meat,  and 
the  squaws  made  signs  to  us  that  the  men  had  gone  out  after  deer,  and  that 
we  could  have  some  by  waiting  till  they  came  in.  We  observed  that  the 
horses  ate  with  great  avidity  the  herb  which  they  had  been  gathering  ;  and 
here  also,  for  the  first  time,  we  saw  Indians  eat  the  common  grass — one  of 
the  squaws  pulling  several  tufts,  and  eating  it  with  apparent  relish.  See- 
ing our  surprise,  she  pointed  to  the  horses  ;  but  we  could  not  woll  under- 
stand what  slie  meant,  except,  perhaps,  that  what  was  good  for  the  one  was 
good  for  the  other. 

We  encamped  in  the  evening  on  the  shore  of  the  river,  at  a  place  where 
the  associated  beauties  of  scenery  made  so  strong  an  impression  on  us  that 
we  have  given  it  the  iiumo  of  the  lieautiful  Camp.  The  undulating  river 
shore  was  shaded  witii  the  live  oaks,  which  formed  a  continuous  grove 
over  the  country,  and  the  same  grassy  sward  extended  to  the  edge  of  the 
water;  and  we  made  our  fires  near  some  large  granite  masses  which  were 
lying  among  the  trees.  We  hud  seen  several  of  the  acoin  caches  during  the 
day  ;  and  here  there  were  two  which  were  very  large,  containing  each, 
probably,  ten  bushels.  Towards  evening  we  heard  a  weak  shout  among 
the  hilh  behind,  and  had  the  pleasure  to  see  Mr.  Pieuss  descending  towards 
the  camp.  Like  ourselves,  he  had  travelled  to-day  25  miles,  but  had  seen 
nothing  of  Derosier.  Knowing,  on  the  day  he  was  lost,  that  I  was  deter- 
mined to  keep  file  river  as  much  as  possible,  be  had  not  thought  it  neces- 
sary to  follow  the  trail  very  closely,  but  walked  on,  light  and  left,  cer- 
tain to  find  it  somewhere  along  the  liver,  searching  places  to  obtain  good 
vi'ews  of  the  country.  Towards  sunset  he  climbed  do»vn  towards  the  river 
to  look  for  the  camp;  but,  finding  no  trail,  concluded  that  we  were  behind^ 
and  walked  back  until  night  came  on,  when,  being  very  much  fatigued,  he 
collected  drift  wooil  and  made  a  large  fire  among  the  rocks.  The  next  day 
it  became  more  serious,  and  he  encamped  again  alone,  thinking  that  we 
must  have  taken  some  other  course.  To  go  back  would  have  been  mad- 
ness in  his  weak  and  starved  condition,  and  onward  towards  the  valley 
was  his  only  hope,  always  in  expectation  of  reaching  it  soon  His  prin- 
cipal moans  of  subsistence  were  a  few  roots,  which  the  hunters  call  sweet 
onions,  having  very  little  taste,  but  a  good  deal  of  nutriment,  growinti  gen- 
erally in  rocky  ground,  and  requiring  a  good  deal  of  l.ibi<r  to  gt  t  as  he  had 
O'.ily  a  pocket  knii'e.  Seaiching  for  these,  he  found  a  nest  f  big  ants, 
which  he  let  run  on  his  hand,  and  stripped  them  oiT  in  his  moui  ;  these 
had  an  agreeable  acid  taste.     One  of  his  greatest  privations  was  the  want 


:*'r 


iJ- 


^  r-. 


i 


A: 


<5.i 


M 


^^R 


CAl'T.   FREMONT'S  NAnKATIVH. 


[1844. 


i 


of  tobacro ;  and  a  pleasant  smoke  at  ovcning  would  have  been  a  relief 
whicb  only  a  voy;if;rur  coidd  a|)-j)iociato.  llotiiotl  tlic  diiod  loaves  ot'llic 
live  OiiU,  knnw'ii^  that  those  of"  otiiei'  <viks  were  soniefinirs  used  as  a  sub- 
stitute ;  but  these  uckUoo  tliiek,  and  would  not  do.  On  the  1th  he  made 
scv^n  or  eight  miles,  WidkiJis  slo^\ly  aloriu;  the  river,  avoiding  as  much  as 
possible  to  elimb  tb(>  bills.  In  litll(>  pools  be  eaugbt  some  rd' the  smallest 
kind  of  frogs,  ..bich  lu;  swallowed,  not  so  mucb  in  ibo  gratilication  of  hun- 
ger, as  in  the  bojx  ol  ohtainitii^  some  stPMigtb.  Scattered  along  the  river 
were  old  lire-|;laces,  where  the  Indians  had  roasted  muscles  and  acoitis ; 
but  though  be  scarcluMJ  diligently,  be  did  not  there  su(!ceed  in  llndlng 
cither,  lie  had  oollerird  (iie  wood  lor  {he  night,  when  he  beard  at  some 
distance  fiom  the  livei  (be  baikiiig  of  what  be  thought  w ere  two  dogs,  and 
walked  in  that  ilireetioPi  as  (jtiiekly  as  be  an  as  ai)le,  hoping  (o  lind  there 
some  Indian  hut,  but  int  t  only  two  wolves  ;  and,  in  bis  disappointment,  the 
gloom  of  the  forest  was  doubled. 

Tiavelling  the  n(  xt  day  feebly  down  the  rivei',  be  foimd  five  or  six  In- 
dians at  the  huts  of  Nvbich  we  have  spoken  ;  some  were  painting  them- 
selves black,  and  others  toasting  acorns.  IJeing  only  one  man,  tbcy  did 
not  run  oiT,  but  received  him  kindly,  ar.d  gave  him  a  v. olcome  supply  of 
roasted  acorns.  He  gave  them  bis  pocket  knife  in  return,  and  stretched 
out  bis  band  to  one  of  the  Indians,  who  did  not  apjx'ar  to  compreiiend  ibc 
motion,  but  jumped  back,  as  if  he  thought  he  was  about  to  lay  bold  of  him. 
Tliey  seemed  ai'raid  of  him,  nol  certain  as  to  what  be  was. 

Travelling  on,  be  came  to  the  p.lace  where  we  had  found  the  fuaws. 
Here  be  found  eur  tiro  still  hurning,  and  the  tracks  of  the  hei  '  '  ""'.le 
sight  gave  bim  sudden  hope  and  courage  ;  and,  following  as  lasi  as  be 
could,  joined  us  at  evening. 

March  6. — ^Ve  t.-ntinuod  on  our  road,  tbrougli  the  same  surpassingly 
beautiful  countty,  o^iUirely  une{}u:i!led  for  the  pasturage  of  .-iocU  by  any 
thing  we  bad  ever  seen.  Our  horses  bad  nf)W  become  so  strong  that  they 
were  able  to  cany  us,  ami  we  travelled  rapidly — over  four  miles  an  hour; 
four  of  us  riding  every  altei  nate  '  lur.  Every  few  hundred  yards  we  came 
upon  a  little  band  of  deer  ;  but  we  were  too  eager  to  reach  the  settlement, 
wbich  wc  momentarily  expected  to  discover,  to  halt  for  any  other  than  a  pass- 
ing sbot.  In  a  few  hours  we  reached  a  large  fork,  the  northern  branch  of 
the  river,  and  equal  in  size  to  tiiat  which  wc  bad  descended.  Together 
they  formed  a  beautiful  stream,  GO  to  100  yards  wide  ;  ',»hicb  at  first,  igno- 
rant of  the  nature  of  t!ic  country  through  which  that  river  ran,  we  took 
tO  be  the  Sacramento. 

We  continued  down  l!ie  tight  bank  of  the  river,  travelling  for  a  while  over 
a  wooded  upland,  where  we  had  the  delight  to  discover  tracks  of  cattle.  To 
the  southwest  was  visible  a  black  column  of  smoke,  which  we  bad  fre- 
quently noticed  in  descending,  arising  front  the  fires  we  bad  seen  from  the 
top  of  the  Sierra.  From  the  upland  we  descended  into  ad  grovGS  on 
the  river,  consisting  of  the  evergreen,  and  a  new  species  oi'  white  oak  with 
a  large  tufted  tep,  and  three  to  six  feet  in  dianieter.  Among  these  was  no 
"brushwood  ;  and  the  grassy  surface  gave  to  it  the  appearance  of  parks  in 
an  old  settled  country.  Followir.g  the  tracks  of  the  hoises  and  cattle  '"a 
search  of  people,  we  discovered  a  small  village  of  Indians.  Some  of  t! 
had  on  shirts  of  civilized  manufacture,  but  were  otherwise  naked,  and  v 
could  understand  nothing  from  them  ;  they  appeared  entirely  astonished  at 
seeins  us. 


[1844. 

^n  a  rolipf 
ves  of  the 
i  as  a  siih- 
!>  ho.  luado 
IS  mnch  as 
le  sinallost 
on  of  huM- 
g  the  liver 
1(1  acorn? ; 
in  findinir 

111  at  some 

»  (loj^s,  and 

find  there 

itnient,the 

1  or  six  Fa- 
ting tlicin- 
1,  they  did 

2  supply  of 
1  stretched 
rehrnd  ihe 
old  of  him. 

he  fiiaus. 
--S  '^ho 
I  last  as  he 

irpassingly 
)CU  by  any 
1!;  that  thoy 
s  an  honr ; 
Is  we  ca:ne 
n;ttlement, 
hanapass- 
anch  of 
Togiether 
first,  i^no- 
n,  we  took 

while  ovt 
cattle.  '^I'o 
e  had  fre- 
II  from  the 

grovGS  on 
0  oak  with 
ese  was  no 
jf  parks  in 
id  cattle  ''n 

icof  t!M  -^v. 
3d,  and  v  •_ 
tonished  ai 


^844.] 


OAIT.  FKK.MONTri  NAltJJATIVE. 


1  \) 


Wo  made  an  acorn  meal  at  noon,  and  hunic'd  on;  the  valley  heiu;^  <;.u 
with  llowcrs,  and  .some  of  the  l)atdcs  bcinjj;  ii'),-ioliitely  golden  with  the  Cali- 
fornian   \)<i]i\)y,  {esclischollzia  croccu.)     Here   the  ^rass  was  smooth  and 
green,  and  the  groves  very  open  ;  the  larg(>  oaks  ihiowing  a  broad  shade 
among  sunny  spots.     Shoi lly  afterw.nds  wo  g^.ve  a  shout  at  the  apj)earance 
on  a  little   Idiilf  of  a  nisatly  built  (idohc  houst;  with   glass  windows.     We 
rode  u|),  but,  to  our  (lisa})pointn)erit,  found  only  Indians.     Tiiere  was  noap- 
})earance  of  (udlivalion,  and  we  could  see  no  cattle,  and  we  supj)osed  the 
place  had  been  abandDned.     We  now  pressed  on  more  eagt;rly  than  ever; 
the  river  swept  round  in  a  large  bend  to  the  right;  the  hills  loweicnl  down 
entirely  ;  and,  gradually  enteiing  a  broad  valley,  we  came   unexpectedly 
into  a  large  itidian  village,  where  the  people  looked  dean,  and  wore  cotton 
shirts  and  \arious  other  articles  of  dress.     They  itnmedialely  crowded 
around  us,  and  wr  had  the  inexpressible  delight  to  find   on(!  who  spoke  a 
little  indillerciit  Spanish,  but  who  at  first  confounded  us  by  saying  there  were 
no  whites  in  the;  countiy  ;  but  just  then  a  well-dressed  Indian  came  up,  and 
made  his  salutations  in  very  well  sjioken    Spanish.     In  answer  to  our  in- 
quiries, be  informed  us  that  we  were  uj)on  the  Riodclos  America nos^  {ihe 
river  of  the  Ameiicans,)  and  that  it  joined  the  Sacramento  river  about  10 
miles  below.    Never  did  a  name  sound  more  sweetly !    We  felt  ourselves 
among  our  countrymen  ;  lor  the  name  of  Anicrican,  in  these  distant  parts, 
is  applied  to  tin;  citizens  of  the  United  Slates.     To  our  ea^^er  inquiries  he 
answered,  "  I  am  a  vaquero  (cow  heid)  in  the  service  of  Capt.  Sutter,  and 
the  people  of  this  rancheria  work  for  him."    Our  evident  satisfaction  made 
him  communicative;  and  ho  went  on  to  say  that  Capt.  Sutter  was  a  very 
rich  man,  and  always  glad  to  see  his  country  people.     We   asked  for  his 
house,     lie  answered,  that  it  was  just  over  the  hill  before  us;  and  offered, 
if  we  would  wait  a  moment,  to  lake  his  horse  and  conduct  us  to  it.     We 
readily  accepted  his  civil  oiler.     In  a  short  distance  we  came  in  sight  of  the 
fort ;  and,  passing  on  the  way  the  house  of  a  settler  on  the  opposite  siiiO, 
(a  Mr.  Sinclair,)  w(i  forded  the  river;  aiul  in  a  few  miles  were  met  a  short 
distance  from  the  fort  by  Capt.  Sutter  himself.     Jle  gave  us  a  most  frank 
and  cordial  reception — conducted  us  immediately  to  his  residence — and 
under  his  hospitable  roof  we  had  a  night  of  rest,  enjoyment,  and  refresh- 
ment, which  none  but  ourselves  could  appreciate.     But  the  party  left  in 
the  mountains  with  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  were  to  be  attended  to;  and  the  next 
morning,  supplied  svith  fresh  hor^'-s  and  provisions,  1  hurried  off  to  meet 
ihem.     On  the  second  day  we  met,  a  few  miles  below  the  forks  of  the  Rio 
iC  los  Americanos;  and  a  more  forlorn  and  pitiable  sight  than  they  present- 
6  '  cannot  well  be  imagined.      They  were  all  on  foot — each  man,  weak  and 
^raaciated,  leading  a  horse  or  mule  as  weak  and  emaciated  as  themselves. 
Tney  had  experienced  great  difficulty  in  descending  the  mountains,  made 
slippery  by  rains  and  melting  snows,  and  many  horses  fell  over  precipices, 
and  wctc  killed  ;  and  \vith  some  were  lost  the  packs  they  carried.  Among 
these,  was  a  mule  with  thv",  plants  which  we  had  collected   since  leaving 
Fort  Hall,  along  a  line  of  2,000  miles  travel.     Out  of  67  horses  and  mules 
with  which  we  commenced  crossing  the  Sierra,  only  33  reached  the  valley 
of  the  Sacramento,  and  they  only  in  a  condition  to  be  led  along.  Mr.  Fitz- 
patrick  and  his  party,  travelling  more  slowly,  had  been  able  to  make  some 
little  exertion  at  hunting,  and  had  killed  a  few  deer.     The  scanty  supply 
was  a  great  relief  to  them  ;  for  several  had  been  mr-de  sick  by  the  strange 
and  unwholesome  food  which  the  preservation  of  life  compelled  them  to 


.  ;:'■«■ 

■r  • 


.  / 


'■<jt. 


■T.I' 

'k'  ! 


*'<■■. 


■-.tf  i: 

>V:<., 

f:. 


i.'30 


('APT.   rKK.MONT'S  NAKKATIVE. 


[1614 


m 

u 


„;v 


^i': 


>isc.  VVc  stopped  and  cnrampod  as  soon  as  wo  tnot  ;  atid  a  rr|)a5t  of  «;ood 
beef,  oxrollont  bread,  and  delicious  salmon,  whicli  I  had  bioiij;bt  along, 
were  their  (hst  relief  from  the  sntleringsof  the  Sierra,  and  flieir  first  intro- 
duction to  the  lijxiiries  of  the  Siicramento.  It  reiquired  all  our  philosophy 
and  forbearance  to  prevent  ])lc7itij  horn  becoinin|:c  as  hurtful  to  us  now,  as 
scarcity  had  been  before. 

The  next  day,  Mandi  8(h,  we  encamped  at  the  junction  of  the  two  riv- 
ers, the  Sacramento  and  Americanos;  and  thus  found  tlu'  whole  party  in 
the  beautiful  valley  of  llu;  Sacramento.  It  was  a  convenient  place  for  the 
camp;  and,  among  other  things,  was  within  reach  of  the  wood  necessar}' 
to  make  the  pack  saddU^s,  which  we  .shoiild  need  on  our  long  journey 
home,  from  which  we  were  farther  distant  now  than  we  were  four  months 
before,  when  from  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia  we  so  cheerfully  took  up 
the  homeward  line  of  n)aich. 

Ca|)taiM  Sutter  emigrated  to  this  country  from  the  western  part  of  Mis- 
souri in  1838-'30,  and  foimed  the  first  settlement  in  the  valley,  on  a  large 
grant  of  land  which  he  obtained  from  the  Mexican  (iovernment.  He  had, 
at  first,  some  trouble  with  th(!  Indians  ;  but,  by  the  occasional  exercise  of 
well-timed  authority,  he  has  succeeded  in  converting  them  into  a  peaceable 
and  industrious  people.  The  ditches  around  his  extensive  wheat  fields; 
the  making  of  the  sun-dried  bricks,  of  which  his  fort  is  constructed  ;  the 
ploughing,  harro  i*  nd  other  agricultural  operations,  are  entiiely  the 
work  of  these  Indiu  ir  which  they  receive  a  very  moderate  compensa- 
tion— principally  in  si. .its,  blankets,  and  other  articles  of  clothing.  In  the 
same  manner,  on  application  to  the  chief  of  a  village,  he  readily  obtains  as 
many  boys  and  girls  as  he  has  any  use  for.  There  were  at  this  time  a 
number  of  girls  at  the  fort,  in  training  for  a  future  woollen  factory;  but 
they  were  now  all  busily  engas.';ed  in  constantly  watering  the  gardens, 
which  the  unfavorable  dryness  of  the  season  rendered  necessary.  The  oc- 
casional dryness  of  some  seasons,  I  unilerstood  to  be  the  only  complaint  of 
the  settlers  in  this  fcitilc  valley,  as  it  sometimes  renders  the  crops  uncer- 
tain. Mr.  Sutter  was  about  making  arrangements  to  irrigate  his  lands  by 
means  of  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos.  He  had  this  vear  sown,  and  alto- 
gether  by  Indian  labor,  thiee  hundred  fanegaf  of  wheat. 

A  few  years  since,  the  neighboring  Russian  establishment  of  Ross,  being 
about  to  withdraw  from  the  country,  sold  to  him  a  large  number  of  stock, 
with  agricultural  and  other  stores,  with  a  number  of  pieces  of  artillery  and 
other  munitions  of  war  ;  for  these,  a  regular  yearly  payment  is  made  in  grain. 

The  fort  is  a  quadrangular  adobe  structure,  mounting  12  pieces  of  artil- 
lery, (two  of  them  brass,)  and  capable  of  admitting  a  garrison  of  a  thou- 
sand men  ;  this,  at  present,  consists  of  40  Indians,  in  uniform — '^ne  cf 
Avhom  was  always  found  on  duty  at  the  gate.  As  might  naturally  bo  ex- 
pected, the  pieces  are  not  in  very  good  order.  The  whites  in  the  em- 
ployment of  Capt.  Sutter,  American,  F'onch  and  German,  amount,  per- 
haps, to  30  men.  The  inner  wall  is  formed  into  buildings  comprising  the 
common  quarters,  with  blacksmith  and  other  workshops;  the  dwelling 
house,  with  a  large  distillery  house,  and  other  buildings,  occupying  more 
the  centre  of  the  area. 

It  is  built  upon  a  pond-like  stream,  at  times  a  lanning  creek  communicat- 
ing with  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos,  which  enters  the  Sacramento  about  two 
miles  below.  The  latter  is  here  a  noble  river,  about  three  hundred  yards 
broad,  deep  and  tranquil,  with  several  fathoms  of  water  in  the  channel,  and 


1S44.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'.s  NARRATIVE. 


231 


s  now,  as 


c  two  riv- 
c  party  in 
CO  lor  the 
nocpssat}' 
g journoy 
ir  months 
y  took  up 

It  of  Mis- 
:)n  a  largo 

Ho  had, 
xercise  of 
peaceable 
?at  fields ; 
oted  ;  the 
tirely  the 
ompensa- 
i;.  In  the 
obtains  as 
liis  time  a 
tory ;  but 

gardens, 

The  oc- 
nplaint  of 
ps  uncer- 

iuiids  by 
and  alto- 


iss,  being 
of  stock, 
illery  and 
in  grain. 
3  of  artil- 
f  a  thou- 

— nno    q(^ 

ly  bo  ex- 
1  the  em- 
iint,  per- 
rising  the 
dwelling 
mg  more 

imunicat- 
ibont  two 
red  yards 
nnel,  and 


its  banks  continuously  timbered.  There  were  two  vessels  belonging  to 
Capt.  Sutter  at  an'hor  ne;«r  the  landing — one  a  largo  two-ujasted  lighter, 
and  the  other  a  schooner,  which  was  shortly  to  proceed  on  a  voyage  to 
Fort  Vancouver  for  a  carqo  of  goods. 

Since  his  airival,  sevcial  other  persons,  principally  Americans, have  es- 
tablished themselves  in  the  valley.  Mr.  Sincl.iir,  Irom  whom  i  exj)erienced 
much  kindness  dining  tny  stay,  is  settled  a  lew  miles  distant,  on  the  kio 
de  ios  Americanos.  Mr.  Coudrois,  a  gentleman  Irom  (iermany,has  estab- 
lished himself  on  FtNither  river,  and  is  associated  with  Captain  Sutter  in 
agricultural  pursuits.  Among  other  impiovenients,  they  are  about  to  in- 
troduce the  cultivation  of  rape  seed,  [hrassUn  rupus, )  which  there  is  every 
reaso'A  to  believe  is  admirably  adaj)ted  to  the  <'liiu;Ue  and  soil.  'I'he  lowest 
aveiage  produce  of  wheat,  as  far  as  we  can  at  present  know,  is  35  fanegas 
for  one  sown  ;  but,  as  an  instance  of  its  fertility,  it  m;iy  be  mentioned  that 
Sefior  Valejo  obtained,  on  a  pieite  of  ground  where  siicep  had  been  pas- 
tured, 800  fanegas  for  eight  sown.  TIkj  produce  being  dill'erent  in  various 
places,  a  very  correct  iilea  cannot  be  lbrn)e(l. 

An  impetus  was  given  to  the  active  little  population  by  our  arrival,  as 
we  were  in  want  of  every  thing.  Mules,  horses,  and  cattle,  were  to  be  col- 
lected ;  the  horse  mill  was  at  work  day  and  night,  to  make  suflicient  Hour  ; 
the  blacksmith's  shop  was  put  in  reipiisition  for  horse  shoes  and  bridle 
bitts  ;  and  pack  saddles,  ropes,  and  bridles,  and  all  the  other  little  equip- 
ments'of  the  c;>nip,  were  ag;un  to  be  providi'd. 

The  delay  thus  occasioned  was  one  ol  repose  and  e/ijoyment,  which  our 
situation  required,  and,  anxious  as  we  were  to  resume  our  homeward  jour- 
ney, was  re;i;retted  by  no  one.  In  the  mean  time,  1  had  the  pleasure  to  meet 
with  Mr.  Chiles,  who  was  residing  at  a  farm  on  the  other  side  of  the  river 
Sacramento,  while  engaged  in  the  selection  of  a  place  for  a  settlement,  for 
which  lie  had  received  the  necessary  grant  of  land  from  the  Mexi  .in  Gov- 
ernment. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  we  had  })arted  near  the  frontier  of  the  States, 
and  that  he  had  subsecjuently  desceiuled  the  valley  of  Lewis's  fork,  with  a 
party  of  10  oi-  \2  men,  with  the  intention  of  crossing  the  intermediate  moun- 
tains to  the  waters  of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco.  In  the  execution  of  this 
design,  and  aided  by  subsequent  information,  he  left  the  Columbia  at  the 
mouth  oi'  Malheur  river;  and,  making  his  way  to  the  head  waters  of  the 
Sacramento  with  a  part  of  his  company,  travelled  down  that  river  to  the 
settlements  of  Nueva  Helvetia.  The  other  party,  to  whom  he  had  com- 
mitted his  wagons,  and  mill  irons  and  saws,  took  a  couisc  further  to  the 
south,  and  the  wagons  and  their  contents  were  lost. 

On  the  22d  we  made  a  preparatory  move,  and  encamped  near  the  settle- 
ment of  Mr.  Sinclair,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  fiio  ue  Ios  Americanos.  I  had 
discharged  live  of  the  party  :  Neal,  the  blacksmith,  (an  excellent  workman, 
and  an  unmarried  man,  who  had  done  his  duty  faithfully,  and  had  been  of 
very  great  service  to  me,)  desired  to  remain,  as  strong  inducements  were 
offered  here  to  mechanics.  Although  at  considerable  inconvenience  to  my- 
self, his;  good  conduct  induced  me  to  comply  with  his  request ;  and  1  ob- 
tained (or  him,  from  Captain  Sutter,  a  present  compensation  of  two  dollars 
and  a  half  per  diem,  with  a  promise  that  it  should  be  increased  to  five,  if  he 
proved  as  good  a  workman  as  had  been  represented.  He  was  more  par- 
ticularly an  agricultural  blacksmith.  The  other  men  were  discharged  with 
their  own  consent. 


L*< 


■I* 


»::-v 


.4  -^ 


■1  ' 

lf>: 
•'■*.' 

■ir-.. 

■u.. 


'« 


•'1- . 


r'i" 


M- 


!.^a 


CAPT.  FKKMON'l'JS  NAKRATIVK. 


[1844. 


V 


While  wc  icniiniu'd  jit  Ihis  place,  Deio.siei,  one  of  our  best  men,  wliose 
s((>:uly  irood  coDdtict  liiid  won  my  rc^md,  waiidi :ie<l  oil  lioni  llic  camp,  and 
never  nMiurK  li  to  it  affiiin  ;  nor  Ikis  he  sinie  hern  IkmkI  oI'. 

March  Jt. — We  /cmiiikmI  onr  journey  witli  an  anipir  .stock  ol"  provisions 
and  a  large  cavalcade  ol  animal's,  con^ihtin^  ol  \'.\{\  hothes  and  mules,  and 
ihout  thirty  head  ol  cattle,  live  of  which  were  milch  cows.  Mr.  Sutter 
liirnishcd  us  also  with  an  Indian  hoy,  whohati  heen  liained  as  a  vaquero, 
and  who  would  he  rierviceahle  in  manau;in^  our  cavalcade,  gieat  |)art  ol 
which  were  neaily  a.swihl  as  hullalo  ;  and  who  was,  besides,  vt;ry  anxious 


to  iio 


iiung  witn  us 


th 


Our  direct  couise  honw  was  east;  but  the   Sierra 


would  force  us  south,  al)ove  live  hundred  miles  ol  travelling:;,  to  a  pass  at 
the  head  of  the  San  .l();!(|uin  liver.  This  pass,  reporied  to  he  ^ood,  was 
discovered  by  J\Jr.  .l()se|)h  Walker,  ol'whonj  1  have  already  spoken,  and 
whose  name  it  mi^ht  there  lore  ;ippropviatrly  bear.  To  reach  it,  our  course 
lay  aloni;  the  valley  ol  the  San,Joa(juin — the  river  on  our  ri^ht,and  the  lolty 
wall  of  the  impassable  Siei  ra  on  the  l(>lt.  Fron\  that  pass  we  were  to  move 
southcastwar(lly,havin!i;the  Sieira  tlienon  the  rijj;ht,and  reach  the  ^'■Spaiiisk 
//7m7,"  deviously  traced  from  one  wateiiufj;  place  to  another,  which  constitut- 
ed the  route  of  the  caiavans  from  Pucbla  delus  Atigelcs,  near  the  coast  of 
the  Pacific,  to  Santa  1\  of  New  Mexico.  From  the  pass  to  this  trail  was  150 
miles.  Following  that  tiail  ihrouffh  a  desert,  relieved  by  some  fertile  plains 
indicated  by  the  recurrence  of  tlie  term  vcgas,  imtil  it  turned  to  the  right 
to  cross  the  Colorado,  our  course  would  be  norllieast  until  we  regained  the 
latitude  we  had  lost  in  airiving  at  the  JOutah  lake,  and  thence  to  the  Kocky 
mountains  at  the  head  of  the  Arkansas.  'I'his  course  of  travelling,  forced 
upon  us  by  the  structure  of  the  country,  would  occupy  a  computed  distance 
of  two  tliousand  miles  before  we  reached  the  head  of  the  Arkansas  ;  not  a 
settlement  to  be  seen  upon  it;  and  the  names  of  places  along  it,  all  being 
Spanish  or  Indian,  indicated  that  it  had  been  but  little  trod  by  American 
feet.  Though  long,  and  not  lice  from  hardships,  this  route  })i'esented  some 
points  of  attraction,  in  tracing  the  Sierra  Nevada — turning  the  Cireat  Basin, 
perhaps  crossing  its  rim  on  the  south — completely  solving  the  problem  of 
any  river,  except  the  Colorado,  from  the  Rocky  mountains  on  that  part  of 
our  continent — and  seeing  the  southern  extremity  of  the  (Iie;U  Salt  lake, 
of  which  the  northern  pan  had  been  examined  the  year  befoi  e. 

Taking  leave  of  Mr.  Sutler,  who,  with  several  gentlenien,  accompanied  us 
a  few  miles  on  our  way,  we  travelled  about  eighteen  miles,  and  encamped  on 
the  Rio  dclos  Cosuntncs,  a  stieam  receiving  its  name  from  the  Indians  who 
live  in  its  valley.  Our  road  was  through  a  level  country,  admirably  suited 
to  cultivation,  and  covered  with  groves  of  oak  trees,  j)rincipally  the  ever- 
green oak,  and  a  large  oak  already  mentioned,  in  form  like  those  of  the 
Avhite  oak.  The  weather,  which  here,  at  this  season,  can  easily  be  changed 
from  the  summer  heat  of  the  valley  to  the  frosty  mornings  and  bright  days 
nearer  the  mountains,  continued  delightful  for  travellers,  but  unfavorable 
to  the  agriculturists,  whose  ciops  of  wheat  began  to  wear  a  yellow  tinge 
from  want  of  rain. 

March  25. — Wo  travelled  for  28  miles  over  the  same  delightful  country 
as  yesterday,  and  halted  \n  a  beautiful  bottom  at  the  ford  of  the  Rio  delos 
Mukelemnes,  receiving  its  name  from  another  Indian  tribe  living  on  the 
river.  The  bottoms  on  the  stream  are  broad,  rich,  and  extremely  fertile  ; 
and  the  uplands  are  shaded  with  oak  groves.  A  showy  lupinus  of  extra- 
ordinary beauty,  growing  four  to  five  feet  in  height,  and  covered  with 


[1844. 

icn,  whose 
camp,  and 

provisions 
ruule8,  and 
Mr.  Sutter 
a  vaqutrOy 
L>at  part  ot 
uy  anxious 
tlio  Sieira 
[u  a  ))ass  at 

pood,  was 
)oket),  and 

our  course 
nd  llio  loftv 
re  to  move 
e  ^^Spanisli 
h  coiistitut- 
llic  coast  of 
ail  was  150 
rtile  plains 
o  the  right 
.'gained  the 

the  Koeky 
ing,  lorced 
ed  distance 
nsas  ;  not  a 

,  all  heing 

American 
>nted  some 
leat  Basin, 
)roblem  ot 

lat  part  of 

Salt  lake, 

iipaniedus 
camped  on 
dians  who 
ibly  suited 
the  ever- 
ose  of  the 
e  changed 
right  days 
ifavorable 
How  tinge 

j1  country 
Rio  de  los 
ng  on  the 
ly  fertile  ; 
of  extra- 
ered  with 


1844.] 


(JAi'T.  rKi;,\n)i\r'.s  NAitK.vnvK 


83: 


spikes  in  hlonm,  adortMMi  tlic  hanks  of  the  river,  and  fdled  tlic  air  with  a 
liglit  and  ^r.ilelul  pcrfdinc. 

On  the  L!()th  we  hali<  d  at  the  Anoi/n  de  las  Calnrcras^  (Skull  creek,)  a 
tributary  to  the;  San  .I(>a(|uin — ihe  prc^vious  two  streiims  (iiitering  the  bay 
between  the  San  .loiKpiiri  and  Sacramento  livers.  This  place  is  beautiful, 
with  open  groves  of  o.ik,  and  a  grassy  sward  beneath,  with  many  plants  in 
bloom  ;  some  varieties  of  which  seem  to  love  the  .shacU;  of  the  trees,  and 
grow  there  in  close  small  fields.  Near  the  river,  and  icplacing  the  grass, 
arc  great  (piaittities  of  (unnin/e,  (soap  plant,)  the  loaves  of  which  are  used 
in  CJalifornia  for  making,  aiuimg  other  things,  mats  for  s.iddle  cloths.  A 
vine  with  a  small  white  (lower,  [mclathria  /)  called  here  la  i/crba  /juenu, 
and  which,  from  its  abun(lanci>,  gives  name  to  an  island  and  town  in  the 
hay,  was  to-day  very  frecpient  on  our  road — sometimes  tunning  on  the 
ground  or  climl)ing  the  trees. 

March  27. — 'I'o-day  we  travtdied  steadily  and  rapidly  up  the  valley  ;  for, 
with  our  wild  animals,  any  other  gait  was  impossible,  and  making  about 
five  miles  an  hour.  J)urii)g  the  eailier  part  ol  the  day,  our  ride  had  been 
over  a  very  level  piaiiie,oi-  latherii  succession  of  long  stretches  of  prairie, 
separated  by  lines  and  groves  o(  oak  timber,  growing  along  <lry  gullies, 
which  are  fdled  with  water  in  seasons  of  rain  ;  and,  perhaps,  also,  by  the 
melting  snows.  Over  much  of  this  extent,  the  vegetation  was  sparse  ;  the 
surface  showing  plaitdy  the  action  of  water,  which,  in  the  season  of  flood, 
the  Joaijuin  spreails  ovei  the  valley.  About  1  o'clock  we  came  again 
among  innumerable  flowers  ;  and  a  few  miles  further-,  fields  of  the  beautiful 
hlue-llovvering  Itipinc^  w  liich  seems  to  love  the  neighborhood  of  water,  indi- 
cated that  we  were  approaching  a  stream.  VVc  here  found  this  beautiful 
shrub  in  thickets,  some  of  them  being  12  leet  in  height.  Occasionally  three 
or  four  plants  were  dusteted  together,  forming  a  grand  bou(piet,  about  90 
feet  in  circumference,  and  10  feet  high  ;  the  whole  summit  covered  with 
spikes  of  flowers,  the  perfume  of  which  is  very  sweet  and  grateful.  A  lover 
of  natural  beauty  can  imagine  with  what  pleasuie  we  rode  among  these 
flowering  groves,  which  filled  the  air  with  a  light  and  delicate  fragrance. 
We  continued  our  toad  for  about  half  a  mile,  iriterspersed  through  an  open 
grove  of  live  oaks,  vvhicii,  in  form,  were  the  most  symmetrical  and  beautiful 
we  had  yet  seen  in  this  country.  The  ends  of  their  branches  rested  on  the 
ground,  forming  somewhat  more  than  a  halfspheic  of  very  full  and  regular 
figure,  with  leaves  apparently  smaller  than  usual. 

The  Californian  poppy,  of  a  rich  orange  color,  was  numerous  to-day. 
Elk  and  several  bands  of  antelope  made  their  appearance. 

Our  road  was  now  one  continued  enjoyment  ;  and  it  was  pleasant,  riding 
among  this  assemblage  of  green  pastures  witli  varied  floweis  and  scattered 
groves,  and  out  of  the  warm  green  spiing,  to  look  ai  the  rocky  and  snowy 
peaks  where  lately  we  had  siifl'ered  so  much.  Emerging  from  the  timber, 
we  came  suddenly  upon  the  Stanislaus  river,  wheie  we  hoped  to  find  a 
ford,  but  the  streaui  was  flowing  by,  dark  and  deep,  swollen  by  the  moun- 
tain snows  ;  its  general  breadth  was  about  50  yards. 

We  travelled  about  five  nijles  up  the  river,  and  encamped  without  being 
able  to  find  a  ford.  Here  W3  made  a  large  coral,  in  order  to  be  able  to 
catch  a  sufficient  number  of  our  wild  animals  to  relieve  those  previously 
packed. 

Under  the  shade  of  the  oaks,  along  the  river,  I  noticed  erodium  cicuta- 
Hum  in  bloom,  eight  or  ten  inches  high.     This  is  the  plant  which  we  had 


!%■ 


1' 


k 


4"' 


234 


('APT.  KUKMONT'S  NAHIJATIVK. 


[1944. 


seen  the  squaws  palherinj;  on  the  Rio  de  Io<i  Amoi  icanos.  Uy  the  inh.ihit« 
ants  of  th«'  valley,  it  is  hi'i,hly  n.steennMl  (or  Cittpnirj^?  callle,  which  upp<!ar 
to  he  very  lend  of  it.  Ileic,  where  the  soil  hcgins  to  f)e  .sandy,  it  stipplios 
to  a  considerahio  extent  the  want  of  f^rass. 

Desirous,  as  far  as  possHile,  without  dMiay,  to  iticluth;  in  our  examination 
the  San  Jua(|uin  rivrr,  I  rptinix'd  (his  Miornitmdown  the  Stanislaus  (or  M 
miles,  and  a^ain  encamped  without  having  (bund  a  lol(litl^  place.  Alter 
following  it  for  8  miles  (urtlior  the  next  inornin;;,  and  (iiidini;  ourselves  in 
tiie  vicinity  of  the  San  .loa(|uiii,  encamped  in  a  hanilsoiiie  o.ik  strove,  and, 
several  cattle  hein':;kill('d,  we  fen  ied  over  oui  hag<fa<;e  in  their  skins.  Here 
our  Indian  hoy,  who  prol)ahly  had  not  much  idea  of  where  ho  was  goinn, 
and  began  to  he  alarmed  at  the  niany  streams  which  we  were  rapidly  put- 
ting between  him  and  the;  village,  (h.'seited. 

Thirteen  head  of  cattle  look  a  sudden  (right,  while  we  were  driving  them 
across  the  river,  and  galloped  o(V.  I  remained  a  day  in  the  endeavor  to 
recover  them  ;  but,  (iruling  they  had  taken  the  trail  hack  to  the  fort,  let  them 
go  without  further  cd'ort.  Here  we  had  several  days  of  warm  and  pleasant 
rain,  which  doubtless  saved  the  crops  below. 

On  the  1st  of  A|)ril,  wo.  made  10  miles  across  a  prairie  without  tiniher, 
when  we  were  stopped  again  by  another  large  river,  which  is  called  the 
Rio  de  la  Merced,  (river  of  our  Lady  of  Mercy.)  Here  the  country  had 
Jost  its  character  o(  extreme  lettility,  the  soil  having  become  more  sandy 
and  light  ;  but,  for  several  days  past,  its  beauty  had  been  increased  by  the 
additional  animation  of  animal  life;  and  now,  it  is  crowded  with  bands  o( 
elk  aiid  wild  horses  ;  and  along  the  rivers  are  (rcquent  fresh  tracks  ot  griz- 
zly bear,  which  are  unusually  numerous  in  (his  country. 

Onr  route  had  been  along  the  timber  of  (he  San  Joaquin,  generally  about 
8  miles  distant,  over  a  high  prairie. 

In  one  of  the  bands  of  elk  seen  today,  there  were  about  200  ;  but  the 
larger  bands,  both  of  these  and  wild  horses,  are  generally  found  on  the  other 
side  of  the  river,  which,  for  that  reason,  1  avoided  crossing,  i  nad  been 
informed  below,  that  the  droves  of  wild  horses  were  almost  invariably  found 
on  the  western  bank  of  the  river;  and  the  danger  of  losing  our  animals 
among  them,  together  with  the  wish  of  adding  to  our  recormoissance  the 
numerous  streams  which  run  down  from  the  Sierra,  decided  me  to  travel 
up  the  eastern  hank. 

April  2. — The  day  was  occupied  in  building  a  boat,  and  feri'ying  our 
baggage  across  the  river  ;  and  we  encamped  on  the  bank.  A  large  fishing 
eagle,  with  white  head  and  tail,  was  slowly  sailing  along,  looking  after  sal- 
mon ;  and  there  were  some  pretty  birds  in  the  timber,  with  partridges, 
ducks,  and  geese  innumerable  in  the  neighborhood.  We  were  struck  with 
the  tameness  of  the  latter  bird  at  Helvetia,  scattered  about  in  flocks  near 
the  wheat  fields,  and  eating  grass  on  the  prairie  ;  a  horseman  would  ride  by 
within  30  yards,  without  disturbing  them. 

April  3. — To-day  we  touched  several  times  the  San  Joaquin  river — here 
a  fine-looking  tranquil  stream,  with  a  slight  current,  and  apparently  deep. 
It  resembled  the  Missouri  in  color,  with  occasional  points  of  white  sand  ; 
and  its  banks,  where  steep,  were  a  kind  of  sandy  clay  ;  its  average  width 
appeared  to  be  about  eighty  yards.  In  the  bottoms  are  frequent  ponds, 
where  our  apj)roach  disturbed  multitudes  of  wild  fowl,  principally  geese. 
Skirting  along  the  timber,  we  frequently  started  elk  ;  and  large  bands  were 
seen  during  the  day,  with  antelope  and  wild  horses.     The  low  country  and 


1844.] 


CAI'T.  FKEMONTS  NAKUATIVK. 


835 


(atninatinn 
laiis  lor  11 
ce.  A  It*.' I 
uselves  in 
^rovo,  and, 
iins.  Here 
was  goina;, 
Ltpidly  put- 

iving  them 
n (leaver  to 
rt,  let  ihcm 
[id  pleasant 

out  timber, 
I  called  the 
country  had 
nore  sandy 
jsed  by  the 
th  bauds  ol 
L:ks  ot  griz- 

rallv  abouf 

• 

0  ;  but  the 
n  the  other 
nad  been 

ably  found 
>ui-  animals 
issance  the 

e  to  travel 

rrying  our 
irge  fishing 
g  after  sal - 
partridges, 
struck  with 
flocks  near 
aid  ride  by 

liver — here 
ntly  deep, 
hite  sand  ; 
rage  width 
ent  ponds, 
ally  geese, 
jands  were 
ountry  and 


i 


the  timber  rendered  it  difllciilt  tokopp  the  main  line  of  the  river;  and  this 
c\(.'ning  we  encamped  on  a  Itibiitary  stream,  about  five  miles  from  it8 
mouth.  On  the  ptaiiie  bordeiing  the  San  Joa((iiin  bottoms,  there  occurred 
during  the  day  but  litth;  grass,  and  in  its  place  was  »  ^iparsc  and  dwarf 
growth  of  plants  ;  the  soil  being  sandy,  with  entail  bare  places  and  hillocks, 
eminded  nn;  much  ol  the  IMatte  bnltxns  ;  but,  on  iipproachitig  tlx;  timber, 
we  found  a  more  luxuriant  vegetation  ;  and  at  our  cam})  was  an  al)undance 
of  grass  and  pea  vines. 

The  foliage  of  the  oak  is  getting  darker  ;  and  every  thing,  except  that  the 
weather  is  ii  little  cool,  shows  that  spring  is  rapidly  advancing  ;  and  to-da) 
we  had  (piite  a  summer  lain. 

April  4. — Commenced  to  rain  at  da) light,  but  cleared  off  brightly  at  sun- 
rise. We  ferried  the  river  witltout  any  dilliculty,  and  continued  up  the  San 
Joaquin.  Klk  were  running  in  bands  over  the  prairie  and  in  the  skirt  of 
the  timber.  We  reached  the  river  again  at  tlu;  moiith  of  a  large  slough, 
which  we  were  un;d)le  to  ford,  and  made  a  circuit  of  several  miles  around. 
Uerc  the  country  appears  very  flat;  oak  trees  have  enliiely  disappeared, 
and  arc  replaced  by  a  large  willow,  nearly  equal  to  it  in  size.  The  river  is 
about  a  hundred  yards  ifi  breadth,  branching  into  sloughs,  and  interspersed 
with  islands.  At  this  tinu!  it  appears  sutticiently  dec^p  for  a  small  steamer, 
but  its  navigation  would  be  broken  by  shallows  at  low  water.  IJearing  in 
towards  the  river,  we  were  again  forced  ofl'  by  another  slough  ;  and,  pass- 
ing around,  steered  towards  a  clump  of  trees  on  the  river,  and,  finding 
there  good  grass,  encamped.  The  prairies  along  the  left  batdi  arc  alive 
with  immense  di o\es  of  wild  horses  ;  and  they  had  been  seen  during  the 
day  at  every  opening  through  the  woods  which  afforded  us  a  view  across 
the  river.    Latitude,  by  observation,  37'^  08'  00"  ;  longitude  1 20°  -15'  23." 

April  5. — During  the  earlier  part  of  the  day's  ride,  the  country  nresented 
a  lacustrine  appearance  ;  the  river  was  deep,  and  nearly  on  a  levtjl  with  the 
surrounding  country  ;  its  banks  raised  like  a  levee,  i..id  fringed  with  wil- 
lows. Over  the  bordeiing  plain  were  interspersed  spots  of  prairie  among 
fields  of  titlr  (bulrushes,)  which  in  this  country  arc  called  tularcs,  and  lit- 
tle ponds.  On  the  opposite  side,  a  line  of  timber  was  \isible,  which,  ac- 
cording to  information,  points  out  the  course  of  the  slough,  which,  at  times 
of  high  water,  connecis  with  the  San  Joaquin  river — a  large  body  of  water  in 
the  upper  pai  t  of  the  valley,  called  the  'I'ule  lakes.  The  rivei-  and  all  its 
sloughs  are  ve,  y  full,  and  it  is  probable  that  the  lake  is  now  discharging. 
Here  elk  were  frequently  started,  and  one  was  shot  out  of  a  band  which  ran 
around  us.  On  our  left,  the  Sierra  maintains  ^i^■  iiowy  height,  and  masses 
of  snow  appear  to  descend  very  low  towards  the  plains  ;  probably  the  late 
raina  in  the  valley  were  snow  on  the  mountains.  We  tiavelled  37  milej, 
and  encamped  on  the  river.  Longitude  of  the  camp,  120°  28'  34",  and 
latitude  36°  49'  12". 

April  6. — After  having  travelled  15  miles  along  the  river,  we  made  an 
early  halt,  under  the  shade  of  sycamore  trees.  Here  we  found  the  San 
Joaqui  1  coming  (low  n  from  the  Sierra  with  a  westerly  course,  and  check- 
ing our  way,  as  all  its  tiibutaries  had  previously  done.  We  had  expected 
to  raft  the  river ;  but  found  a  good  ford,  and  encamped  on  the  opposite  bank, 
where  droves  of  wild  horses  were  raising  clouds  of  dust  on  the  prairie. 
Columns  of  smoke  \.eic  visible  in  the  direction  of  the  Tule  lakes  to  the 
southward — probably  kindled  in  the  tulares  by  the  Indians,  as  signals  that 
there  were  strangers  in  the  valley. 


I 

4 


i: 


4'' 

'f'     I 

♦■v  ' 

if  ■ 
•>. 


y.  '■  'I 


4  I 


iid 


{•APT    runMONTrt  NAIlUAI'IVi: 


riS44. 


•i'ii 


■» 

i 


•■A 


m 


\Vc  made,  on  (ho  7tli,  :i  li.iid  tiiiiit'li  in  a  cold  ciiilly  tain  from  morning 
until  nii(l>t — the  wijutliur  so  tliirk  that  vvn  (ravclUMJ  liy  coinpaits.  Tliis  \\i\n 
a  Iravtmc  iVoin  (lio  San  .loa(|iiin  to  tiio  watoiti  o(  tlie  Tuli  jukeo,  and  our 
road  wflji  over  a  was  If  vol  piairif  cotinlry.  VVt;  saw  wolv<'.s  lr«M|ncnl  y 
during  the  day,  piovvlin^  about  aKcr  llic  youn^  antt  lope,  uliicli  cannot  run 
very  last.  '^hu^|(J  ucro  'tuitttruUii  during  tlic  day,  and  two  were  caugltt  by 
the  people. 

Lute  in  iho  alUMMoon  wo  di^covcMod  (IioIxm,  which  wis  found  to  he 
<;roves  ol"  oak  ttocs  on  a  dry  arrotjo,  riic,  rain,  which  had  l.dlcn  in  (re- 
fluent showcr.s,  poured  down  it)  a  storm  al  .sunset,  with  a  .stronu;  wind, 
which  ^w(>pt  oil'  tlio  cloud*),  and  Iclt  a  clear  sky.  liidin^  on  through  the 
timber,  about  darkuolound  abundant  water  in  small  ponds,  li)  to  .30  yards 
in  dianu'ter,  with  clear  deep  water  and  .sandy  beds,  bordered  with  boj; 
rusheb  (^//ntuv  (//■(HAU.'V,)  and  a  tall  lush  iscii'iniH  incnsfris)  12  tocit  hii;h, 
and  suirounded  near  the  margin  with  willow  tribes  in  bloom;  anion*;  them 
one  which  resembled  sniix  nii/ricoiiles.  The  oak  ol"  the  j^roves  was  the 
same  already  mentioncil,  with  stnall  leaves,  in  I'onn  like  those;  of  the  white 
oak,  and  torming,  with  tlie  evergreen  oak,  the  eharaciei  istic  trees  ot'  the 
valley. 

April  S. — Alter  a  rid*;  ol' two  miles  through  brush  and  open  groves,  we 
reached  a  large  stn.Min,  called  the  River  ol  tinj  Lake,  resembling  in  si/e  the 
San  Joai|uin,  and  being  about  100  yards  broad.  This  is  the  principal  trib- 
utary to  the  Tul  •  lakes,  which  collect  all  the  \vaters  in  the  upper  purl  ul 
the  valley.  While  we  were  searching  tor  a  lord,  son»e  Indians  appealed  on 
the  opposite  bank,  and.  having  discovered  that  Wf!  were  not  Spanish  sol- 
diers, showed  us  the  way  to  a  good  loril  several  njiUis  above. 

The  Indians  ol  the  Sierra  mike  frecpjent  descents  upon  the  settlements 
west  of  the  Coast  Range,  which  they  keep  constantly  swept  of  horses ; 
among  the>n  are  many  who  are  called  Cluistian  Indians,  being  refugees 
from  Spanish  niission:>.  Sevral  of  iliese  incursions  o'-ic.urred  while  we 
were  at  Helvetia.  Occasionally  parties  ol  soldiers  follow  them  across  the 
Coast  Range,  init  never  enter  the  Sierra. 

On  the  opposite  side  wc  found  some  forty  or  fifty  Indians,  who  had  come 
to  meet  us  from  the  village  below.  We  made  them  some  small  presents, 
and  invited  them  to  accompany  us  to  our  encampment,  which,  alter  about 
three  miles  through  fine  oak  groves,  we  mad;)  on  the  liver.  We  made  a 
fort,  principally  on  account  of  our  animals.  Tlie  Indians  brought  otter 
skir.2,  ant'  ocveiul  kinds  of  fish,  and  bread  made  of  acorns, '«  trade.  Among 
them  were  several  who  hat!  come  to  live  among  tiiese  Indians  when  the 
missions  were  broken  up,  and  who  spoke  S[)anish  lluently.  'I  hey  inforned 
us  that  they  were  called  by  the  Spaniards  mansitoSy  (tame,)  in  distinction 
from  the  wilder  tribes  of  the  mountains.  They,  however,  think  themselves 
very  insecure,  not  know  ing  at  what  unforeseen  moment  the  iins  of  the 
latter  may  be  visited  on  them.  They  are  dark-skinned,  but  handsome  and 
intelligent  Indians,  and  live  principally  on  acorns  and  the  roots  of  the  tule, 
of  which  also  their  huts  are  made. 

Bv  observation,  tiie  latitude  of  the  encampment  is  36^  21'  50",  and  lon- 
gitude 119-41'  10'. 

April  9. — For  several  miles  we  had  very  had  travelling  over  what  is 
called  rotten  ground,  in  wiiich  the  horses  were  frequently  up  to  their  knees. 
Making  towards  a  line  of  timber,  we  found  a  small  fcrdable  stream,  beyond 
which  the  country  improved,  and  the  grass  became  excellent ;  and,  crossing 


18'H.1 


('\PT.  FKMMONT'rt  NAIlKVirVK 


837 


1  Miornni^ 
'I'lbis  \\M 
!H,  and  our 
iro<|ueiil  y 
c;aniu)t  run 
:  iMUglit  l)y 

•urul  (o  lie 
lien  ill  l'i(>' 
oiii;  wind, 
liroi.^li  (liu 
to  JO  yarils 
i  with  bo^ 
to(!l  iiiii;li, 
iuon>;  till  MM 
E5.S  was  the 
"  the  white 
308  ol'  the 

;iovc9,  wo 
in  si/0  the 
icipul  tiil)- 
er  |):irl  ul 
ipoiitod  on 
|)anish  sul- 

ettleincnts 

ol"  horses  ; 

g  rerugGOH 

while  we 

across  the 

had  conio 

presents, 

(tor  about 

V'o  made  a 

(ught  otter 

D.   Among 

when  the 

y  inlorned 

distinction 

hciuselves 

ins  ol  the 

[Jsome  and 

)!  the  tult', 

',  and  lon- 
er what  is 
leir  knees, 
in,  beyond 
J,  crossing 


a  number  of  dry  and  tindiorrd  arroyon^  wp  travelled  until  late  through  opou 
ouk  grove.*),  and  encamped  niiioiig  a  ('ollcclion  ol  Htieam**.  'I'licMr  were 
running  among  lushrs  and  willows;  and,  ns  usual,  ilix'ks  ol  hlarkbird.<« 
announced  our  approach  to  water.  \\t\  have  here  appioaihcil  considerably 
nearer  to  the  east*  in  Siena,  \\lii(;h  >hows  very  plainly,  ^tiil  (oxert'cl  with 
ma-^ses  ol  snow,  w  hidi  vestr'iday  and  tO'day  Iia?»  aho  apjteaicd  abundant 
en  the  ('oast  I?ange. 

April  It). — Today  wc  made  another  l(»ng  journey  of  abotit  foity  mile!«, 
through  :i  country  ufiintcK •^li^g  and  tlat,  with  Vf  ry  little  grass  and  a  sandy 
.s.iil,  in  which  several  branelies  we  cros-^iMl  had  l()>t  their  water.     In  the 


evening  the  lace  of  the  country  became 


hilly 


niid,  turning  a  few  milcjs 


up  towards  the  mountains,  we  fouml  a  good  encampment  on  a  pretty  stream 
lii(id(Mi  among  th()  hilb-,  and  liandsoiiiely  limbered,  principally  with  large 
cottonwoods,  [pojuiluH^  <lill(iiiig  iVom  any  in  iMubaux's  Sylva.)  'i'hc 
seed  vessels  ol  this  tree  were  now  just  about  bursting. 

Several  Indians  came  downtlic  livc^r  to  see  us  in  the  e\cning:  we  gave 
them  su|»per,  ami  cuMiioned  them  against  stealing  our  horses;  \\hich  they 
j)romi.sed  not  to  attempt. 

April  II. — A  bid;ni  trail  aloni^  the  river  here  takes  out  among  the  hills. 
"  Huen  camino,"  (good  road,)  ^aid  one  of  the  In<liaiis,  of  whom  wo  had 
iiupiired  about  ihepass;  and,  follow  ing  it  accoidingly,  it  condtjctcd  usbeau- 
lifidly  through  a  very  broken  crtunfry,  by  an  excellent  way,  which,  other- 
wise, we  sbouid  have  found  o.xtremely  bail.  'I'akeii  separately,  the  hills 
present  smooth  and  graceful  outlines,  but,  together,  make  bad  travelling 
ground.  Instead  of  grass,  the  w  hole  face  ol"  the  country  is  closely  covered 
with  vrodiuiu  cicutarluni^  lure  oidy  two  oi'  three  inches  high.  Its  h<nght 
and  beauty  vari<.'d  in  a  inmaikable  manner  w  ith  the  locality,  being,  in  many 
lo^v  places  wnicli  wc  passed  during  the  day,  aiouiul  ^f reams  and  springs, 
two  and  thiee  Icet  in  height.  The  country  had  now  assumed  a  character 
of  aridity;  and  the  luxuriant  green  of  these  little  streams,  woodv-d  with 
willow,  oak,  or  sycamore,  looked  very  refresb'a:;;  among  the  sandy  hills. 

In  the  evening  wo  encamped  on  a  largo  creek,  with  abundant  water.  I 
noticed  here  in  bloom,  lor  the  first  time  since  Icavir.g  the  Arkansas  waters, 
the  mirohilia  Jalapu. 

t^pril  \2. — Along  our  rorul  to-day  the  country  was  alto'jretlier  .sandy,  and 
vegetation  meager.  I'phciira  occidentalism  which  wc  had  tir.st  seen  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Pyramid  lake,  made  its  appearance  here,  and  in  the 
course  of  the  day  became  very  abundant,  and  in  large  bushes.  Towards 
the  close  ol"tlie  afternoon,  we  reached  a  tolerably  large  river,  which  emp- 
ties into  a  small  lake  at  the  head  ol  the  valley  ;  it  is  about  thirty-five  yaids 
wide,  with  a  stony  and  gravelly  bed,  and  the  swiftest  stream  we  have 
crossed  since  leaving  the  bay.  The  bottoms  produced  no  glass,  though 
well  timbered  w  ith  willow  and  cottonwood  ;  and,  after  ascending  it  for 
several  miles,  we  made  a  late  encami)ment  on  a  little  bottom,  with  scanty 
grass.  In  greater  part,  the  Vegetation  along  our  road  consisted  now  of 
rare  and  urmsual  plants,  among  which  many  were  entirely  new. 

Along  tfie  bottoms  were  thickets  consisting  of  several  varieties  of  shrubs, 
which  made  here  their  first  appearance  ;  and  among  these  w  as  (iarrya 
ellipticd,  (Lindley,)  a  s'nall  tree  belonging  to  a  very  peculiar  natur-al  or- 
der, and,  in  its  gciiei'al  appearance,  (growing  in  thickets,)  resembling 
willow.  It  now  became  common  along  the  streams,  frequently  supplying 
the  place  oi'  salix  lon^nfolia. 


I ' « 


t 

I 


I 


'.t 


I ; 

•  '♦ 

■»'<■ 

t         ■ 

u 

k 


'V.: 


w. 


^. 


|v    * 


'j3ft  cAi»r.  niKMoNT?*  nahhativj:.  [ish. 

^l/>ri7  13.—  Tlio  uuti'i  WON  low,  uiid  n  (ow  iiiilci  nliovn  wc  forded  the 
riviir  lit  11  riipid,(iiMl  luarcliiMl  in  a  Noiitlitnktrily  dircclion  ovoi  a  \chh  lirokni 


M 


rotinlry.  I  hi*  iiuxiMtatiis  unr  txiw  \riy  titMi',  (icct-tiotially  looiiiin;^  on* 
tliitxi^li  l<>^.  In  ii  li'w  JiDiiiM  wc  iriiclnd  tlio  lioltuiu  ol  a  ncrk  witlioii. 
wutrr,  ovri  which  lhi>  Miiiidy  l>edN  wimc  didiiciNi'd  in  many  hiancfioM.  Itn* 
inrdiali'ly  whrio  wc  (ittiick  it,  lht<  iitnhrr  liMmiiinIrd  ;  and  hrlow,  to  tht 
li^ht,  it  u.ts  .1  liro.til  hcd  oTdiy  and  liarc  sands.  The  ri*  uni!  many  tracks 
(d  Indians  and  Iidisin  inipiinlid  in  ihrsand,  which,  with  (ilhci  indicatioriv, 
informed  us  was  the  creek  i.siininf;  from  iho  pans,  and  which  wo  ha\< 
t'lHcd  l*as!)  crci'k.  Wi;  ascc  nditd  a  trail  for  a  lew  miles  alon^  tfi> 
neck,  and  sinMcnly  lutind  a  vticam  of  water  live  li'ct  wide,  innnin^  wiiii 
a  lively  (IIik  nt,  hul  lur^in^  itxdl  almost  imniciliattdy.  This  little  ^(reanl 
showed  plaiidy  the  mannei  in  which  the  monnlaiii  watcis  lose  themselves 
in  (iand  at  tlu!  easlere.  loot  td' (he  Sierra,  leaving  only  a  parched  desert  uixl 
aiid  plains  heyond.  The  stream  enlat^ed  rapidi/,  and  the  timher  heeaim 
alxindant  as  w c  ascended.  A  new  species  ol  pine  iiiadt;  its  appearance, 
with  several  kinds  of  oaks,  and  a  vainly  ol  trttes ;  and  the  cotinlry  chang- 
in^  its  appeaiani"  suddenly  and  entirely,  wc  fonnd  ourselves  again  travel- 
ling among  the  old  orchanl'like  plains.  ll(Me  we  selected  a  delightful  en- 
eampment  in  a  handsome  green  oak  h(dlo\N\  wluMe,  among  the  open  bolU 
of  the  trees,  wa-i  an  ahnndant  sward  of  grass  and  pea  vines.  In  tlu!  even- 
ing a  CMuislian  Indian  rode  into  the  camp,  widl  diessed,  with  long  spurs, 
and  a  sonifneroy  and  speaking  Spanish  lluenlly.  it  was  an  unexpected  ap- 
paiition,  and  a  sti.ing(!  atul  pleasant  sight  in  this  desolate  gorge  of  ii  monn- 
t.dn — an  Indian  face,  Spanish  costume,  jingling  spurs,  ami  horse  eipiippeii 
after  the  Spanish  manner.  Il(>  inlorme<l  nu;  that  he  helonged  to  one  of  the 
Spanish  missions  to  the  sonth,  distant  two  or  three  days^  ride,  and  that  Ix' 
liad  ohlained  from  the  piiests  lea\  e  to  speiul  a  lew  days  with  his  relation- 
in  the  Sierra.  Having  scvw  ns  enter  Ihe  yir/.sw,  he  had  come  vn  to  visii 
us.      Ilea[)peared  familiarly  aciiuainled  with   the   country,  gave  me 

definite  and  cl(!ar  information  in  regard  to  the  desert  region  cast  of  the 
mountains.  I  had  entered  the  pass  w  ilh  a  >trong  disposition  to  vary  my 
route,  and  to  travid  directly  across  tow  ards  the  CJreat  S.dl  lake,  in  the  view 
of  ol)tainiMg  some  aitpiaintance  w  ith  the  inleiior  ol  tlu;  (ireat  liasin,  while 
pursuing  a  direct  course  lor  the  frontier  ;  hut  his  rci)rcsentation,  which  de- 
hcribed  it  as  an  arid  and  l)arren  desert,  that  had  repulsed  by  its  sterility  al 
the  attem|»ls  of  the  Indians  to  i)enetiatc  it,  determined  me  for  the  present 
to  relinquish  tin,-  plan;  and,  agieeahly  to  his  advice,  after  crossing  the 
Sierra,  continue  our  intended  route  along  its  eastern  base  to  the  Spanish, 
trail.  Hy  this  route,  a  parly  of  six  Indians,  who  had  cniG  from  a  gniat 
river  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  dcport  to  tiade  with  his  people,  had  jusi 
started  on  their  return.  He  would  himself  return  the  next  day  to  San 
Fernando;  and  as  our  roads  would  be  the  same  for  two  days,  he  offered 
his  services  to  conduct  us  so  far  on  our  way.  His  oiler  was  gladly  accepted. 
The  fog,  which  had  somewhat  interfered  with  views  in  the  valley,  had  en- 
tirely passed  off,  and  left  a  clear  sky.  That  which  had  enveloped  us  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  pass  proceeded  evidently  from  (ires  kindled  amoni; 
the  tuliires  by  Indians  living  near  the  lakes,  and  which  were  intended  t'j 
warn  those  in  the  mountains  that  there  were  strangers  in  the  valley.  Our 
position  was  in  lalitutie  .'55    17    12",  and  longitude  118    35'  03". 

tj'lpril  14. — Our  guide  joined  us  this  morning  on  the  trail;  and,  arriving 
in  a  short  distance  at  an  open  bottom  w  here  the  creek  forked,  wc  continued 


\ 


IM4.1 


(•\PT.   FrUlSfo.NT'M  NAKR^TIVK. 


33f) 


roi-clc<l  the 

IcNM  lirokru 
joining  mi' 
vk  withoii. 
iiclii's.   Itn- 

low,   to   lilt 

iKiny  triic'kt 
itKlicitiori'*, 
li   \\v   liaM* 
alon^    tlii> 
iniiii));  Willi 
illlo  ^t^(^Ull 
ihcmsi'lvc-H 
I  (icsci  t  uixl 
litr  Ix'caiiift 
ippcarancr, 
nlry  chaii^- 
gain  Iravfl- 
}li;;liiriil  cri- 
I  open  bolU 
n  llu:  even- 
lon^  spur?, 
xpt^t'lcd  ap- 
>  ol  a  nioun- 
*c  C(piip|)rii 
to  one  o(  tilt' 
and  that  In- 
lis  relation^ 
vn  to  visit 
gave  nw 
cast  of  llie 
to  vary  my 
in  the  vieu 
iasin,  whilo 
,  which  de- 
sterility  al 
the  preseru 
ossing  the 
ho  Spanitili 
otn  a  great 
e,  had  jui-i 
lay  to  San 
he  offered 
y  accepted, 
ey,  had  en- 
oped  us  in 
died  amoni: 
ntcnded  t) 
alley.    Our 

id,  arrivinc 
continue<i 


up  the  riKht-huixl  hianch,  which  wiih  «>nri('h(Ml  hy  u  profuHion  of  l1owi*rs, 
nnd  haniUoinciy  wooded  wilh  ity('ainoii>,o:ikt,coiioriwood,nnd  willow,  with 
other  In  I'M,  and  Nome  shruhhy  plants.  In  iit  |<in^  .<«liing>«  ol  htillit,  this 
hyeaniore  dillirH  Iroin  that  ol  llu*  IJniird  Slale<«,  and  is  ihr  phttiinuH  occi- 
tItnUilii  ol  llookir — n  ncu-  Hpeci(>r«,  recently  ihscnlted  itinon^  ihe  plants 
collected  in  lh(<  voyage  ol  ihe  Sulphur.  The  collonvvood  varied  iiM  loliag<> 
with  while  lulls,  anti  ihe  leathery  needs  wen,' llying  plenlilully  ihroi.gh  Ihe 
uir.  (iooseherries,  nearly  ripe,  were  very  .dxindant  on  ihe  inouniain  ;  and 
AH  we  pas>ed  the  dividing  grounds,  which  were  not  very  oiisy  to  usceitain^ 
(he  air  wa^  filled  with  perluine,  us  if  we  were  (entering  a  hrghly  cullivated 
garden;  and,  in^le:ld  of  green,  our  pathway  and  ihi;  mountain  sides  were 
«'ov<;red  with  fields  ol  vi  How  (lowers,  w  hith  iu'ie  w  as  the  prevailing  color. 
Our  jotiiiiey  to-da)  w:is  in  the  niicNl  u\  an  advancetl  spring,  whose  green 
and  lloral  heauty  ollcred  a  delighilul  conlr.i*^!  to  (he  sandy  valley  w<!  had 
just  left.  All  Ihe  day,  snow  was  in  sight  on  the  hiiU  ol  lh«'  mounlain,  which 
frowned  down  uptui  us  ot\  the  right  ;  hut  we  Ixhild  it  now  wilh  feelings 
of  pleasant  srcurily,  as  we  rod*'  along  Ixt  ween  green  trees  and  on  lloweiH, 
wilh  huminirig  hird.t  and  other  leathered  ttiends  of  lh(>  traveller  erdivening 
the  serene  spring  air.  .\s  we  ituehed  iIk!  Miininit  of  this  heaulilul  pass, 
and  olitained  a  view  into  ihe  (>aslern  counliy,  we*  saw  at  once  that  here 
was  the  plac«!  to  take  leave  oi  all  such  ph-asint  si'Jiies  as  those  around  us. 
The  di>tant  niouniains  weit:  now  liaid  rocUs  agtin  ;  and  helow,  the  land 
had  any  color  hut  green.  Taking  into  consideration  the  nature  of  the 
Si(!rra  Nevada,  wo  lound  this  pass  an  exct.llent  one  lor  horses  ;  and  with 
a  lilile  la!)or,  or  prihaps  wilh  a  more  ptt  feet  examination  of  the  localities, 
it  might  he  made  sullw  iei:tly  piacticahle  lor  ^v  igons.  Its  latitude  and  \<u\- 
gitudc  may  he  eonsideied  t!i at  of  our  list  encampment,  only  a  few  miles 
liistant.  The  elevation  was  not  taken — our  half-wild  cavalcade  making  it 
Ion  lrou))lesome  to  halt  before  night,  when  once  start(((l. 

Wo  here  lelt  llie  waters  t)l  tlu>  hiiy  ol  San  Fiancisco,  ,u\(|,  though  forced 
uj)on  then*  contrary  to  my  intcntiorn,  I  cannot  regr«  I  the  necessity  which 
occasicMK'd  the  deviation.  It  luido  me  well  ac<|uainte<l  with  the  great 
range  of  ffie  Siei ra  Nevada  of  the  Alia  (^alilor rii.i,  and  sh'<w( d  that  this 
hroad  ami  elevated  snowy  iiil;;e  was  a  continuation  ol  the  C.is<;ade  Range 
of  Oregon,  hetrveen  which  and  the  ocean  there  is  .still  aiu)ther  ami  a  lower 
range,  pa  alhl  to  ihcj  tormor'  and  to  the  coast,  and  vvhii  h  may  he  called  the 
(Joast  Ram  c.  It  also  made  lue  well  acciuainted  with  the  hasin  ol  the  San 
Francisco  hay,  and  with  the  two  pretty  rivers  and  their  valleys,  (the  Sacra- 
mento and  San  Joacjuiii,)  which  are  triltulary  to  that  hay  ;  and  cleared  up 
some  points  in  gcogiaphy  on  which  error  had  long  prevailed.  It  had  been 
constantly  represented,  as  1  have  already  stated,  that  the  bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco opened  far  into  tin;  intei  ioi,  hy  some  river  coming  down  from  the 
hase  of  the  Rocky  mounrains,  and  upon  which  su|)posed  stream  the  name 
of  Rio  Buenaventura  had  been  bestowed.  Our  observations  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  in  the  long  distance  from  the  head  ol'  the  Sacramento  to  the  head 
of  the  San  Joacjuin,  and  of  the  valley  below  it,  which  collects  all  the  waters 
of  the  San  Francisco  bay,  show  that  this  neitiier  is  noi'  can  be  the  case. 
No  river  Irom  the  interior  does, or  can,  cross  the  Sierra  Nevada — itself  more 
lofty  than  the  Itocky  mountaiiis  ;  and  as  to  the  Hucnaventura,  the  mouth 
of  which  seen  on  the  coast  gave  the  idea  and  the  name  of  the  reputed  great 
liver,  it  is,  in  fact,  a  small  stream  of  no  consojjuencf.',  not  only  below  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  but  actually  below  the  Coast  Range — taking  its  rise  within 


r 


It 


I  •• 


»• 

>     V 


i  •. 


fo!: 


240 


CAPT.  FREMOlN'T'S  NAURATIVK. 


[1844- 


^i^ 


half  a  degree  of  (he  ocean,  iunnin<i  parallel  to  it  for  about  two  degrees, 
and  then  falling  into  tho  Pa(  'io  near  Monterey.  There  is  no  openinp;  from 
the  hay  ol  San  Francisco  into  the  interior  of  the  continent.  The  tvro 
rivers  vhich  lUnv  in'.o  it  are  comparatively  shoit,  and  not  perpendicular 
to  the  coast,  hut  hucral  to  it,  and  having  their  heads  towajds  Oiegon  and 
southern  California.  They  opt. >  lines  of  coininunication  north  and  south, 
and  not  eastwardly  ;  and  thus  this  want  of  interior  communication  from 
the  San  Francisco  bay,  now  fully  ascertained,  gives  great  additional  value 
to  the  Columbia,  which  stands  aione  as  the  only  great  river  on  the  Pacific 
slope  of  our  continent  which  leads  from  the  ocean  to  the  Pocky  mountains, 
and  opens  a  line  of  communication  from  the  sea  to  the  valley  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. 

Four  compa\eros  ']oincd  our  guide  at  the  pass  ;  and  two  going  back  at 
noon,  the;  otncrs  continued  on  in  company.  Descending  IVom  the  hills,  we 
reached  a  country  of  luie  gr-*JS,  where  the  erodiumcicutarium  finally  dis- 
appeared, giving  place  to  an  excellent  quality  of  bunch  2;rass.  Passing  by 
some  springs  where  there  Mas  a  rich  sward  of  grass  among  groves  of  large 
black  oak,  we  rode  over  a  plain  on  which  the  guide  pointed  out  a  spot 
where  a  refugee  Christian  Indian  hi  J  beei^  killed  by  a  paity  of  soldiers 
which  had  unexpectedly  penetrated  into  the  moinitains.  Crossing  a  low 
sierra,  and  descending  a  hollow  where  a  spring  gushed  out,  we  'vere  struck 
by  the  suddei^  appearance  ot  yucca  trees,  which  gave  a  strange  and  south- 
ern character  to, the  country,  and  suited  well  witii  the  dry  and  desert  re- 
gion we  were  appioaohing.  Associated  with  the  idea  of  barren  sands,  their 
stiff  and  ungraceful  I'orm  makes  them  to  the  traveller  the  most  repulsive 
tree  in  the  vcgetai)!<^  kingdom.  Following  the  hollow,  we  shortly  came 
upon  a  creek  timbered  with  large  black  oak,  which  yet  had  not  put  forth  a 
leaf.     There  was  a  small  rivulet  of  running  water,  with  good  grass. 

Ap^'il  15. — The  Indiatis  who  had  accompanied  tlio  guide  returned  this 
mornincr,  and  I  purchased  t'rom  them  a  8;)anish  saddle  and  long  spurs,  as 
reminiscences  of  the  lime  ;  and  for  a  few  yards  of  scarlet  cloth  they  gave 
me  a  horse,  which  afterwards  became  food  for  other  Indians. 

We  continued  a  short  distance  down  the  creek,  iu  which  our  guide  in- 
formed us  that  the  water  ver}  soon  disappeared,  and  turned  directly  to  the 
southward  along  the  foot  of  the  mountain  ;  the  trail  on  which  we  rode  ap- 
pearing to  describe  the  eastern  limit  of  travel,  where  water  and  grass  ter- 
minated. Crossing  a  low  spur,  which  boi  dered  the  creek,  we  descended  to 
a  kind  of  plain  among  the  lower  spurs;  t  .e  desert  being  in  full  view  on 
our  left,  apparently  illimitable.  A  hot  mist  lay  over  it  to-day,  through 
which  it  had  a  while  and  glistening  appearance  ;  here  and  there  a  few  dry- 
looking  huUes  and  i.^olated'  black  ridges  rose  suddenly  upon  it.  There," 
said  our  guide,  stretching  out  his  hand  towards  it,  "there  are  the  great 
llanos,  ( plains ; )  7J0  hay  agiia  .  ;:o  hay  zacate — iiada:  there  is  neither  water 
nor  grass — notiung  ;  eveiy  animak  that  goes  out  upon  them,  dies."  It  was 
indeed  dismal  to  look  upon,  and  hard  to  conceive  so  great  a  change  in  so 
short  a  distance.  One  might  travel  the  world  over,  without  finding  a  valley- 
more  fresh  and  verdant — more  floral  and  sylvan — more  alive  with  birds 
and  animals — more  bounteously  watered — than  we  had  left  in  the  San  Joa- 
quin :  hfc"°,  within  a  few  miles  ride,  a  vast  desert  plain  spread  before  us, 
from  which  the  boldest  traveller  turned  away  \  \  despair. 

Directly  in  frc  ^\  of  us,  at  some  distance  to  the  southward,  and  running 
out  ill  an  (easterly  direction  from  the  mountains,  stretched  a  sierra,  having 


* 


I 


[1844. 

0  degrees, 
eninR  from 

The  tivo 
pendicular 
jiegon  and 
and  south, 
ation  from 
ional  vaiuo 
the  Pacific 
mountains, 
of  the  Mis- 

ng  back  at 

lie  hills,  wc 

finally  dis- 

Passingby 

ves  of  large 

1  out  a  spot 
of  soldiers 

issing  a  low 
'vere  struck 
;  and  south- 
l  desert  rc- 
sands,  their 
3t  repulsive 
hortly  came 
t  put  forth  a 
;!;rass. 

turned  this 
112;  spurs,  OS 
they  gave 


1844.] 


CAl'T.  FREMONTS  NARRATIVR. 


241 


V 

f", 


LI 


I 


i 

i 


r  guide  in- 
ectlv  to  the 
,ve  rode  ap- 
d  grass  ter- 
escended  to 
ill  view  on 
y,  through 
a  few  dry- 
There,'- 
e  the  great 
ither  water 
"     It  was 
lange  in  so 
ing  a  valley 
with  birds 
n^e  San  Joa- 
before  us, 

Ind  running 


Irra,  havin 


at  thn  ea.-'tern  end  (porhaps  50  miles  distant)  some  snowy  peaks,  on  which, 
by  the  information  of  our  iiuide,  snow  rested  all  the  year. 

Our  cavalcade  made  a  strange  and  groiesque  appearance;  and  it  was  im- 
possible to  avoid  rellecting  upon  our  position  and  composition  in  this  remote 
solitude.  Within  twodeirrees  of  the  Pacific  oe(;an;  already  far  south  of  the 
latitude  of  Monterey;  and  still  fon-ed  on  south  by  a  desert  on  one  hand,  and 


a  mountain  rau^c  on 


th 


in.  other;  gnideiJ  hy  a  civilized  Indian,  attended  by 
two  wild  ones  from  the  Sierra;  a  Chinook  from  the  Columbia;  and  our  owii 
mixture  of  American,  French,  German — all  armed;  four  or  five  languages 
lieard  at  once;  above  a  hundred  horses  and  mules,  half  wild:  American. 
Spanish,  and  Indian  dresses  and  equipments  intermingled — such  was  our 
composition.  Our  niarcii  was  a  sort  of  procession.  Scouts  ahead,  and  on 
the  Hanks;  a  front  anc'  rear  division;  the  pack  animals,  baggage,  and 
horned  cattle,  in  the  cenfre  ;  and  the  whole  stretching  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
ahng  our  dreary  path.  In  this  form  we  journeyed;  looking  more  like  we 
belonged  to  Asia  than  to  the  United  Stales  of  .\merica. 

We  continued  in  a  southerly  direction  across  the  plain,  to  which,  as  well 
as  to  all  the  country  so  far  as  we  could  see,  the  yucca  trees  gave  a  strange 
and  singular  character.  Several  new  i)lants  appeared,  among  which  was 
a  zygophyllaceous  shrub  {zyi^ophylluni  Cdlifurniciirn,  Torr.  &  Frem.) 
aometinifs  10  feet  in  height;  in  form,  and  in  the  pliancy  of  its  branches,  it 
is  rather  a  graceful  plant.  Its  leaves  are  small,  covered  witli  a  resinous 
substance;  and.  particularly  when  bruised  and  crushed,  exhale  a  singular 
but  very  agreeable  and  refreshing  odor.  This  shrub  and  the  yucca,  with 
many  varieties  of  cactus,  make  the  characteristic  features  in  the  vegetation 
for  a  long  distainie  to  the  eastward.  Along  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  20 
miles  to  the  southward,  red  stripes  of  flowers  were  visible  during  the  morn- 
ing, which  wc  supposed  to  be  variegated  sandstones.  We  rode  rapidly  dur- 
ing the  day,  and  in  the  afternoon  emerged  from  i\\Q  yucca  forest  at  the  foot 
of  an  outlier  of  (he  Sierra  before  us,  and  came  among  the  fields  of  flowers 
we  had  seen  in  the  morning,  which  consisted  principally  of  the  rich  orange- 
colored  Californian  poppy,  mingled  with  other  flowers  of  brighter  tints. 
Reaching  the  top  of  the  spur,  which  was  covered  with  fine  bunch  grass, 
and  where  the  hills  were  very  green,  our  guide  pointed  to  a  small  hollow 
in  the  mountain  before  us,  saying,  "«  este  piedra  hay  agua."  He  appeared 
to  know  every  nook  in  the  co\mtry.  We  continued  our  beautiful  road,  and 
reached  a  spring  in  the  slope,  at  the  foot  of  the  ridge,  running  in  a  green 
ravine,  among  granite  boulders;  here  nightshade,  and  borders  of  buck- 
wheat, with  their  white  blossoms  around  the  granite  rocks,  attracted  our 
notice  as  familiar  plants.  Several  antelopes  were  seen  among  the  hills,  and 
some  arge  hares.  Men  were  sent  back  this  evening  in  search  of  a  wild 
mule  with  a  valuable  pack,  which  had  managed  (as  they  frequently  do)  to 
hide  itself  along  the  road. 

By  observation,  the  latitude  of  the  ca>np  is  34°  41'  42";  and  longitude 
US'"  'Z'y  00".     The  next  day  the  men  returned  with  the  mule. 

jipr'/l  17. — Crossing  the  ridge  by  a  beautiful  pass  of  hollows,  where  sev- 
eral deer  broke  out  of  the  thickets,  we  emerged  at  a  small  salt  lake  in  a 
vation  lying  nearly  east  and  west,  where  a  trail  from  the  mission  of  San 
Bueuaventura  comes  in.  The  lake  is  about  1,200  yards  in  diameter;  sur- 
rounded on  the  margin  by  a  white  salty  border,  which,  by  the  smell,  re- 
minded us  slightly  of  Lake  Aburt.  Therearesomecottonwoods,  with  willow 
and  elder,  around  the  lake;  and  the  water  is  a  little  salt,  although  not  en- 
16 


;,./ 
<.., 


'■y 


F/ 


e 

m 


«'7 


i- 


'^42 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1844. 


lirely  unfit  for  drinkiiia;.  Hero  wc  turned  directly  to  the  eastward,  along 
UH!  trail,  which,  from  being  seldom  used,  is  almost  imperceptible;  and, 
after  travelling  a  few  miles,  our  guide  halted,  and,  pomting  to  the  hardly 
visible  trail,  ^^</qni,  es  car/u'/iu,"  said  he,  "no  se  pierUe — va  stetnj)re."  He 
])ointed  out  a  black  bu/fe.  on  the  plain  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  where 
Ave  would  find  water  to  enca'.np  at  niglii;  and,  giving  him  a  present  of  knives 
and  scarlet  cloth,  we  shook  hands  and  parted.  Me  bore  off  south,  and  in  a 
day's  ride  would  arrive  cit  San  J''ermindo,  one  of  several  missions  in  this 
part  of  California,  where  the  eoinury  is  so  beautiful  thit  it  is  considered  a 
paradise,  and  the  name  of  its  principal  town  ( Puch/d  de  Ins  ./Inij^eles)  would 
make  it  angelic.  We  continued  on  through  a  succession  of  valleys,  and 
came  into  a  mo.st  beautilul  spot  of  ilower  fields;  instead  of  green,  the  liills 
were  pur()le  and  orange,  with  unbroken  l)eds,  into  which  each  color  was 
separately  gathered.  A  jinle  straw  color,  with  a  bright  yellow,  the  rich  red 
orange  of  the  poppy  n)ingled  with  fields  of  purple,  covered  the  s[)Ot  with  a 
iioral  beauty;  and,  on  the  border  of  the  sandy  deserts,  seemed  to  invite  the 
traveller  to  go  no  farther.  Riding  along  through  the  perfumed  air,  we  soon 
after  entered  a  defile  overgrown  wiih  tlie  ominous  (trltmia'ui  tridenlata^ 
which  conducted  us  into  a  sandy  plain  covered  more  or  less  densely  with 
forests  o{  yucca. 

Having  now  the  snowy  ridge  on  our  right,  wc  continued  our  way  towards 
a  dark  hutte  belonging  to  a  low  sierra  in  the  i)lain,  and  whicli  our  guide 
liad  pointed  out  for  a  lan.dm  irk.  Late  in  the  day  the  familiar  growth  of 
Cottonwood,  a  line  of  which  \vas  visible  ahead,  indicated  our  approach  to 
a  creek,  which  we  reached  wbere  the  water  spread  out  into  sands,  and  a 
little  below  sank  entirely.  Here  our  guide  had  intended  we  should  pass 
the  night;  but  there  was  not  a  blade  of  grass,  and,  hoping  to  find  nearer 
the  mountain  a  little  for  the  night,  we  turned  up  the  stream.  A  hundred 
yards  above,  we  found  the  creek  a  fine  stream,  16  feet  wide,  with  a  sAvift 
current.  A  dark  night  overtook  us  A^hen  avc  reached  the  hills  at  the  foot 
of  the  ridge,  and  Ave  Avero  obliged  to  encamp  without  grass;  tying  up  Avhat 
animals  we  could  secure  in  the  darkness,  the  greater  part  of  the  wild  ones 
liaving  free  range  for  the  night.  Here  the  stream  Avas  tAvo  feet  deep,sAvift 
and  clear,  issuuig  from  a  neighboring  snow  peak.  A  few  miles  before 
reaching  this  creek,  Ave  had  crossed  a  broad  dry  river  bed,  Avhich,  nearer 
the  hills,  the  hunters  had  tbund  a  bold  and  handsome  stream. 

April  IS. — Some  parties  were  engaged  in  hunting  up  the  scattered  horses, 
and  others  in  searching  for  grass  above ;  both  Avere  successful,  and  late  iu 
the  day  we  encamped  among  some  spring  heads  of  the  river,  in  a  holloAV 
which  Avas  covered  wUh  only  tolerably  good  grasses,  the  loAver  ground 
being  entirely  overgrown  Avith  large  bunches  of  the  coarse  stift  grass, 
[carex  sitchernsh.) 

Our  latitude,by  observation,  was  .34°27'03";  and  longitude  117°13'00". 

Travelling  close  along  the  mountain,  Ave  followed  up,  in  the  afternoon 
of  the  19th,  another  stream,  in  hopes  to  find  a  grass  patch  like  that  of  the 
previous  day,  but  Avere  deceived;  except  some  scattered  bunch  gra.ss,  there 
Avas  nothing  but  rock  and  sand;  and  even  the  fertility  of  the  mountain 
seemed  Avithered  by  the  air  of  the  desert.  Among  the  fcAv  trees  Avas  the 
nut  pine,  (pinus  tnonophyllus.) 

Our  road  the  next  day  Avas  still  in  an  easterly  direction  along  the  ridge, 
over  very  bad  travelling  ground,  broken  and  confounded  with  crippled 
trees  and  shrubs;  and,  after  a  difficult  march  of  18  miles,  a  general  shout 


\ 


1844.] 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


243 


J,  along 
G  ;  and, 
5  hardly 
'."     He 
I,  where 
I'  knives 
and  in  a 
s  in  this 
id c red  a 
s)  would 
eys,  and 
the  hills 
olor  was 
rich  red       ' 
)t  with  a 
nvitc  the 
,  we  soon 
'dent  at  (I, 
scly  with 

/  towards 
->ur  guide 
growth  of 
[)  roach  to 
ids,  and  a 
ould  ])ass 
nd  nearer 
hundred 
til  a  swift 
t  the  foot 
;  up  what 
wild  ones 
eep,  swift 
es  before 
h,  nearer 

jd  horses, 

Ind  late  in 

a  hollow 

ix  ground 

llift  grass, 

|7°13'00". 
lafternoon 
liat  of  the 
kiss,  there 
jraountain 
Is  was  the 

|the  ridge, 

crippled 

bral  shout 


announced  that  we  luul  struck  the  great  object  of  our  search — thk  Spanish 
TRAIL — which  here  was  running  directly  norih.  The  road  itself,  and  its 
course,  were  equally  happy  tlisooveries  to  us.  Since  the  middle  of  Decenr,- 
iicr  we  had  continually  Ix.'cn  forctid  south  by  mountains  and  hy  deserts, and 
now  would  have  to  make  six  d 'groes  of  worZ/j//;;^'-,  to  regain  the  latitude  on 
which  we  wished  to  cross  the  Rocky  mountains.  The  course  of  (he  road, 
iiierefore,  was  what  we  wanted;  and,  once  more,  we  felt  like  going  home- 
wards. A  ruad  to  travel  on,  and  the  right  course  to  go,  were  joyful  con- 
solations to  us ;  and  our  animals  enjoyed  the  beaten  track  like  our.selves. 
Relieved  from  the  rocks  and  brush,  our  wild  nailes  started  o/l'at  a  rapid  rate, 
and  in  15  miles  we  reached  a  considerabhi  river,  timbered  wi(!i  cottonwood 
;uid  willow,  where  we  found  a  bottom  of  tolerable  grass.  As  the  nnimals 
hadsulfered  a  great  deal  in  tlu^  last  few  days,  I'rernained  here  all  next  day, 
to  allow  them  the  necessary  repose;  and  it  was  now  necesL-ary,  at  every 
favorable  place,  to  make  a  little  halt.  Between  us  and  the  Colorado  river  we 
were  aware  that  the  coi^iiry  was  extremely  poor  in  grass,  and  scarce  for 
water,  there  being  ma.nyjornuda.s',  (days' journey,)  or  long  stretches  of  40  to 
()0  miles,  without  water,  where  the  road  was  marked  by  bones  of  animals. 

Although  in  California  we  had  met  with  people  who  had  passed  over  this 
trail,  we  had  been  able  to  cbtiin  no  correct  information  about  it;  and  the 
greater  part  of  what  we  had  h^ard  was  found  to  be  only  a  tissue  of  false- 
hoods. The  rivers  that  we  found  on  it  were  never  mentioned,  and  others, 
particularly  described  in  name  and  locality,  were  subsequently  seen  in  an- 
other part  of  the  country.  It  was  described  as  a  tolerably  good  sandy  road, 
with  so  little  rock  as  scarcely  to  require  the  animals  to  be  shod;  and  we 
found  it  the  roughest  and  rockiest  road  we  had  ever  seen  in  the  country, 
and  which  nearlv  destroyed  our  band  of  fine  mules  and  horses.  Manyan- 
jnials  are  destroyed  on  it  every  yt  ar  by  a  disease  called  the  foot  evil;  and 
a  traveller  should  never  venture  on  it  without  having  his  animals  well  shod, 
and  also  carrying  extra  shoes. 

Latitude  .34°  34'  11";  and  longitude  117°  13' 00". 

The  morning  of  the  22d  was  clear  and  bright,  and  a  snowy  peak  to  the 
southward  shonj  out  higli  and  sharply  defined.  As  lu'r;  been  usual  since 
we  crossed  the  mountauis  and  descend^'^  miIo  the  hot  plains,  we  had  a  gale 
i>[  wind.  ^Ve  travelled  down  the  rig.  f  'tank  of  the  stream,  over  sa'ids 
which  are  somewhat  loose,  and  have  no  verdure,  but  are  occupied  i  y  va- 
rious shnrbs.  A  clear  bold  stream,  60  feet  wide  id  several  fe't  deep,  had 
a  strange  appearance,  running  between  perfectly  nakc  1  banks  oi  and.  'I'he 
eye,  however,  is  somewhat  relieved  by  willows,  and  the  beautiful  green  of 
ihe  sweet  cottonwoods  with  which  it  is  well  wooded.  As  we  followeu  along 
jts  course,  the  river,  instead  of  growing  constantly  larger,  g.  dually  dwin- 
dled away,  as  it  was  absorbed  by  the  sand.  We  were  now  areful  to  take 
liie  old  camping  places  of  the  annual  Santa  F6  caravans,  which,  luckily  for 
us,  had  not  yet  made  their  yearly  passage.  A  drove  of  several  I'-ousand 
Jiorses  and  mules  would  entirely  have  swept  away  the  scantv  ■'  iss  at  the 
watering  places,  and  we  should  have  been  obliged  to  leave  tl  road  to  ob- 
tain subsistence  for  our  animals.  After  riding  20  miles  in  a  northeasterly 
direction,  we  found  an  old  encampment,  where  we  halted. 

By  observation,  the  elevation  of  this  encampment  is  2,250  feet. 

^pril  23. — The  trail  followed  still  along  the  river,  which,  in  the  course 
of  the  morning,  entirely  disappeared.  We  contituied  along  the  dry  bed, 
in  which,  after  an  interval  of  about  16  miles,  the  water  reappeared  in 


:.''ii 


,1 

'1 

1 1 

'■('■ . 

Ml 
'  1 1 

■^  •  1 

.r 

1 , 

•W    • 

;! 

'h. 

% 


^ 


•r 


JJ4 


CAPT.  FREMONT'rt  NAKUATIVE. 


[1844. 


P^'ih 


I 


[..1 


m 


sonio  low  places,  woU  tiinbcicd  witli  cottoiiwood  fii.d  willow,  where  was 
another  of  the  customary  (  ainpiiii,'  ^[roniKls.  Here  a  i)arty  of  six  Indians 
cuiue  into  cam;),  poor  and  hnni;ry,and  quite  in  keeping  witli  tlie  character 
of  ih(!  country.  Tlicir  arms  were  hows  of  unusual  length,  and  each  had 
;;  larg'j  gourd,  sirtMiglliened  with  meshes  of  cord,  in  which  he  carried  water. 
'J'hcy  proved  to  he  the  ^h)hahve  Indians  mentioned  by  our  recent  guide; 
and  from  oneof  tliem,  wiio  spoke  Spanish  lliieiuly,  I  ohtuined  some  inter- 
esting information,  which  1  would  he  glad  to  intioduce  heie.  An  account 
of  the  people  inhahitin::  tlii.s  region  would  undouhiddly  possess  interest  for 
the  civili/ed  world.  Our  journey  homeward  was  fruitful  in  incident;  and 
tlie  country  through  wliicii  we  travelled,  although  a  di'^crt,  alforded  nuicli 
to  excite  the  curiosity  of  the  botanist ;  hut  limited  lime,  ami  the  rapidly  ad- 
vancing seasoi'  in  active  operations,  oblige  njc  to  omil  all  extended  de- 
scriptions, and  luivry  iiielly  to  the  conclusion  of  this  repi  ii. 

The  Indian  who  spoke  Spanish  had  been  educated  for  a  number  of  years 
at  one  of  the  Spanish  missions,  and,  at  the  breakii^^  up  of  those  establish- 
ments, had  returned  to  the  mountains,  wher(i  Ik;  had  heim  found  by  a  party 
o{  Mohahvc  (sometim.s  called  *.^muchaba)  Indians,  among  whom  he  had 
ever  since  resided. 

He  spoke  of  the  leader  of  the  present  party  as  ''  mi  amo^''  (my  master.) 
He  said  they  lived  upon  a  large  river  in  ilie  soutlienst,  which  tl  •:.  •'soldicis 
calied  the  Rio  Colorado:"  but  that,  forme)  ly,  a  portioti  of  them  lived  upon 
th;s  river,  and  among  the  mountains  vhich  had  boimded  the  river  valley 
to  the  northward  during  the  day,  and  that  here  along  the  river  they  had 
raised  various  kinds  of  melons.  They  sometimes  came  over  to  trade  with 
the  Indians  oftb.c  Sierra,  bringing  with  them  blanlcets  and  goods  manufac- 
tured by  the  Monquis  and  other  Colorado  Indians.  They  rarely  carried 
home  horses,  on  account  of  the  difliculty  of  getting  them  across  the  desert, 
and  of  guarding  theiv  afterwards  from  the  Pa-utah  Indians,  who  inhabit 
the  Sierra,  at  the  head  of  the  Rio  Virgen,  (river  of  the  Virgin.) 

He  intbrmed  us  that,  a  short  distance  below,  this  river  linally  disappear- 
ed. The  two  ditierent  portions  in  which  water  is  found  had  received  from 
the  priests  two  difierent  names ;  and  subsequently  I  heard  it  called  by  the 
Spaniards  the  Rio  de  las  ,.^)iif/ias,  but  on  the  map  we  have  called  it  the 
Mohahve  river. 

Jlpril  24. — We  continued  down  ihe  stream  (or  rather  hs  bed)  for  about 
eight  miles,  where  there  was  wp'  i  still  in  several  holes,  and  encamped. 
The  caravans  sometimes  continue  below,  to  the  end  of  the  river,  from  which 
there  is  a  very  \ongjo?'nada  of  perhaps  sixty  miles,  without  water.  Here 
a  singular  and  new  species  of  acacia,  with  spiral  pods  or  seed  vessels,  made 
ts  first  appearance ;  becoming  henceforward,  for  a  considerable  distance, 
a  characteristic  tree.  It  wa'^  here  omparativf^Iy  bige,  b<^ing  about  20  feet 
in  height,  with  a  full  and  si)readiiiy  top,  the  lower  branches  declining  to- 
wards the  ground.  It  afterwards  occurred  of  smaller  size,  frequently  in 
groves,  and  is  very  fragrant.  It  has  been  called  by  Dr.  Torrey  spirolobium 
odorahim.  The  zygophyllaceous  shrub  had  been  constantly  characteristic 
of  the  plains  along  the  river;  and  here,  among  many  new  plants,  a  new 
and  very  remarkable  species  of  eriogonum  {eriogonum  injlatiim,  Toxr.  & 
Frem.)  made  its  first  appearance. 

Our  cattle  had  become  so  tired  and  poor  by  this  fatiguing  travelling,  that 
three  of  them  were  killed  here,  and  the  meat  .Iried.  The  Indians  iiad  now 
an  occasion  for  a  great  feast,  and  were  occupied  the  remainder  of  the  day 


[184 


ere  was 
:  Indians 
;lmractcr 
lach  had 
•d  water. 
it  guide  ; 
tuc  inier- 
1  account 
terest  for 
lent ;  and 
[od  much 
ipidly  iul- 
liuded  de- 

)V  of  years 
estabhsh- 
)y  a  party 
m  he  had 

y  master.) 
;  •'  soldie.s 
ived  upon 
ver  valley 
:  they  had 
trade  with 
s  manufac- 
cly  carried 
the  desert, 
ho  inhabit 

disappear- 
cived  from 
llled  by  the 
ailed  it  the 

)  for  about 
|encamped. 
Tom  which 

•.     Here 
jsels,  made 

distance, 
lout  20  feet 
fcclining  to- 
Iquently  in 
nrolobium 
laracteristic 
Ints,  a  new 
\m,  Torr.  & 

[elling,  that 
lis  had  now 
[of  tlie  day 


1844.] 


OAI'T.  riUOMONT'S  x\AI{UATI\  K 


and  all  the  nigli 


ht 


r 


'i^^ 


all  me  nigni  in  cnoKiiig  ana  eainig.      i  nor(!  was  no  part  ol  the  aniin;u 
for  which  they  did  not  tind  some  use,  except  the  hoiu^v       In  the  arternooii 
wc  were  snrpris(!d  by  the  sudden  appearance  in  the  cu        of  two  Mexi- 
cuMS — a  man  and  a  boy.     The  name  of  the  man   was  .'/nilrcas  Fitentes  ; 
ana  that  of  the  boy,  (a  handsome  lad,  11  years  old,)   I\ihln   Ili'rniuKtet. 
They  belonged   to  a  parly  consisting  of  six  persons,  the  remaining  four 
being  the  wife  of  Kueiiles,  the  father  and  mollier  of  Pablo,  and  Santiago 
Giacome,  a  resident  of  New  Mexico.     With  a  eav;dea(l<;  of  about  thirty 
horses,  they  had  come  out  from  Fuebla  do  los  Angeles,  near  tins  coast, 
under  the  guidance  ol  (liacomf?,  in  advance  of  the  great  caravan,  in  order 
to  travel  more  at  leisure,  and  obtain  better  grass.     Having  advanced  as 
far  into  the  desert  as  was  considered  consistent  with  tlieir  s.-ifi'ty,  they  halted 
at  the  Jlrchiktte.,  one  of  the  customary  cam|)ini;  j,'run!i(ls,  about  80  miles 
from  our  encampment,  wh'U-e  there  is  a  spring  of  good  water,  with  sutli- 
cient  grass  ;  and  conclu<ied  to  await  there  the  arrival  of  the  yreat  caravan. 
Several  Indians  were;  soon  discovered  lurking  about  the  eanip,  who,  in  a 
day  or  two  after,  came  in,  an  I,  after  beharing  in  a  very  friendly  manner, 
took  their  leave,  without  aw  ikening  any  suspicions.     Their  deportment 
begat  a  security  which  prove(i  fatal.     In  a  few  days  afterwards,  suddeidy 
a  party  of  about  one  lumdred  Indians  appeared  in  sight,  advaticing  to- 
war'\>  the  Ccuup.     It  was  too  late,  or  they  seemed  not  to  have  presence  of 
min'J  to  take  proper  UK^asure^i  of  safety  :  and  the  Indians  charged  down  into 
their  camp,  shoutimr  as  they  advanced,  and  dischari/iiiiz  flights  of  arrows. 
Pablo  and  Fuentes  were  on  horse  guard  at  the  time, and  mounted, accord- 
ing to  the  custom  of  the  country.     One  of  the  princij)al  objects  of  the  In- 
dians was  to  get  possession  of  the  horses,  and  part  of  them  immediately 
surrounded  the  band;  but,  in  obedience  to  the  sliouts  of  (liacome,  Fuentes 
drove  the  animals  over  and  through  tlie  assailants,  in  spite  of  theirarrows  ; 
and,  abandoning  the  rest  to  their  fate,  carried  them  off  at  speed  across  the 
plain.     Knowing  that  they  would   be  piu'sued  by   the    Indians,  without 
making  any  halt  except  to  shift  their  saddles  to  other  horses,  they  drove  them 
on  for  about  sixty  miles,  and  this  morning  left  them  at  a  watering  place  on 
the  trail,  called  Aguade  Toiuaso.     VV^ilhout  giving  themselves  any  time  for 
rest,  they  hurried  on,  hoping  to  meet  the  Spanishcaravan,  when  they  discov- 
ered my  camp.     I  received  them  kindly,  taking  them  into  my  own  mess,  and 
promii;ed  them  such  aid  as  circumstances  might  put  it  in  my  power  to  give. 

Jipril  25. — We  left  the  river  abruptly,  and,  turning  to  the  north,  regained 
in  a  few  miles  the  main  trail,  (which  had  left  the  river  sooner  than  our- 
selves,) and  continued  our  way  acro.ss  a  lower  ridge  of  the  mountain, 
through  a  miserable  tract  of  sand  and  gravel.  We  crossed  at  intervalsthe 
broad  beds  of  dry  gullies,  where  in  the  season  of  rains  and  melting  snows 
there  would  be  brooks  or  rivulets  ;  and  at  one  of  these,  where  there  was 
no  indication  of  Avater,  were  several  freshly-dug  holes,  in  which  there  was 
water  at  the  depth  of  two  feet.  These  holes  had  been  dug  by  the  wolves, 
whose  keen  sense  of  smell  had  scented  the  water  under  the  dry  sand. 
They  were  nice  little  wells,  narrow,  and  dug  straight  down,  and  we  got 
pleasant  water  out  of  them. 

The  country  had  now  assumed  the  character  of  an  elevated  and  moun- 
tainous desert ;  its  general  features  being  black,  rocky  ridges,  bald,  and 
destitute  of  timber,  with  sandy  basins  between.  Where  the  sides  of  these 
ridges  are  washed  by  gullies,  the  plains  below  are  strewed  with  beds  of 
large  pebbles  or  rolled  stones,  destructive  to  our  soft-footed  animals,  accus- 


iji 


'.1, 


•i\\ 


^  . 

>  ■ 


l 


hi 


24G 


CAPT.  FKK^fON^'H  NAKRATI'^K. 


ri844. 


.At' 


t()in<'<l  lo  rhe  ani^sy  plains  of"  tim  Sacrnnu'iito  valley.  Tliroiit»li  th'^se 
«anUy  basiiis  soiiuMitii'Js  strus^glod  a  .scuity  siretiui,  or  occurred  a  holo  of 
Wiitor,  wliicli  rtiriiislicd  caiiipirii;:  ^r<»||ll(l.s  (or  travrillcrs.  Frt.'([iiently  in  our 
jounify  across,  snow  was  visihlo  on  iIki  siirroiiiHlmi;  tMountains  ;  but  tlu-i: 
waters  rarely  reacliod  the  sandy  |)lain  below,  wlicrt^  w(!  toiled  alon^,  op- 
pressed with  thirst  and  u  burning  sun.  Hui,  iluou^liout  this  tinkeMhuis. 
ol'  sand  and  L,'rav<il,  were  many  beaut il'iil  plants  and  lloweriug  shrubs, 
wliicli  occurred  in  many  U'!W  species,  and  with  ^DN'ite.r  vari<;ly  than  we 
had  been  aecuslomed  n>  see  in  the  most  lu.vtiriant  prairie  countries;  this 
was  a  peculiarity  of  this  ije.sert.  Even  where  no  i^rass  would  take  root, 
the  naked  sand  would  liiooui  with  some  rich  and  rare  llower,  which  found 
its  ap|)ropriat(!  home  in  the  arid  and  barren  .spot. 

Scattered  ov(!r  the  plain,  and  tolerably  abimdani,  was  a  handsomo  legu- 
minous shrid),  three  or  four  feet  lugh,  with  tine  bright-purplc  llowcrs.  It 
is  a  now  /isontlva,  and  occurred  frei[Uenily  hencelorward  along  our  road. 

lieyond  tlw;  first  ridye,  our  road  bore  a  little  to  the  east  of  north,  to- 
wards a  gap  in  a  higher  line  of  mountains;  and,  after  travellmg  about 
twenty-five  miles,  we  arrived  at  the  ,'/i(n(t  de  Tomnso — the  spring  where 
tlie  horses  had  been  left  ;  but,  as  we  expected,  they  were  gone.  A  brie! 
cxaniinaiiou  of  the  ground  convinciid  us  that  they  had  been  driven  olf  by 
the  Indians,  Carson  and  (iodey  volunteered  with  the  Mexican  to  pursue 
thcni :  and,  well  mounted,  the  tliree  set  olf  on  the  uail.  At  this  stopping 
place  there  were  a  few  bushes  and  very  little  grass.  Its  water  was  a  pool; 
but  near  by  was  a  spring,  wiiich  had  been  dug  out  by  Indians  or  travel- 
lers.    Its  water  was  cool — a  great  refreshnnmt  to  us  under  a  burning  sun. 

In  the  evening  Fuenles  returned,  his  horse  having  failed;  but  Ca-sou 
and  Godey  had  continued  the  pursuit. 

I  observed  to-night  an  occultation  of  a'  Cuncri,  at  the  dark  limb  of  the 
moon,  which  gives  for  the  longitude  of  the  place  IIG^  23'  28":  the  lati- 
tude, by  observation,  is  .35*^  1.3'  08".  From  Helvetia  to  this  place,  the  po- 
sitions along  the  intervening  line  are  laid  down  with  the  longitudes  ob- 
tained from  the  chronometer,  which  appears  to  have  retained  its  rate  re- 
markably well ;  but  henceforward,  to  the  end  of  the  journey,  the  {a^  lon- 
gitudes given  are  absolute,  depending  upon  a  subsequent  occultation  and 
eclipses  of  the  satellites. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  a  war-whoop  was  lieard,  such  as  In- 
dians make  when  returning  from  a  victorious  enterprise  ;  and  soon  C'xrson 
and  Godey  appeared,  driving  before  them  a  band  of  horses,  recognised  by 
Fuentes  to  be  part  of  those  they  had  lost.  Two  bloody  scalps,  dangling 
from  the  end  of  Godey's  gun,  announced  that  they  had  o^'ertaken  the  In- 
dians as  well  as  the  horses.  They  informed  us,  that  after  Fuentes  left  them, 
from  the  failure  of  his  horse,  they  continued  the  pursuit  alone,  and  towards 
nightfall  entered  the  mountains,  into  which  the  trail  led.  After  simset  the 
moon  gave  light,  and  they  followed  the  trail  by  moonshine  until  late  in  the 
night,  when  it  entered  a  narrow  defile,  and  was  ditliciilt  to  follow.  Afraid 
of  losing  it  in  the  darkness  of  the  defile,  they  tied  up  their  horses,  struck  no 
fire,  and  lay  down  to  sleep  in  silence  and  in  darkness.  Here  they  lay  from 
midnight  till  morning.  At  daylight  tiiey  resumed  the  pursuit,  and  about 
sunrise  discovered  the  horses;  and,  immediately  dismounting  and  tying  up 
their  own,  they  crept  cautiously  to  a  rising  ground  which  intervened,  from 
the  crest  of  which  they  perceived  the  encampment  of  four  lodges  close  by. 
They  proceeded  quietly,  and  had  got  within  thirty  or  forty  yards  of  their  ob- 


ISM.l 


<.'AI'T.  I'RKMONT'M  NAIIHATIVi:. 


34' 


iiph  those 
a  liole  of 
Dtly  ill  our 

hut  th«>i: 
iiloiiu:,  0|)- 
iiakodiio^.^ 
g   shrubs. 

than  wi* 
tries ;  thl^ 
take  root, 
hicli  louml 

sonio  legu- 

Dwcrs.     \' 

our  roaii 

north,  to- 

hui^  about 

iug  wherf 

.     A  bnet 

ivoii  oil"  by 

I  to  pursuo 

[S  stopping 

ivas  a  pool; 

or  travel - 

timing  sun. 

)Ut  Ca"sou 

imb  of  tho 
' ;  tho  lati- 
ace,  the  po- 
itudes  ob- 
its rate  re- 
3  few  lon- 
tation  and 


ch  as  In- 
oon  Cirson 
gnised  by 
dangUng 
en  the  In- 
s  left  them, 
nd  towards 
sunset  the 
late  in  the 
w.    Afraid 
,  struck  no 
3y  lay  from 
and  about 
id  tying  up 
ened,  from 
es close  by. 
f  their  ob- 


jorf,  whru  a  niovruKJiit  anioiii.'  llu!  horses  disrovDrnd  them  to  llni  lii('iaiis; 
givMi'j  ihn  war  shoiil,  tln-y  insiuntiy  (^liarujod  into  the  caiiip,r('^'ardlcss  of  the 
nninbcr  which  llio  four  lodges  wonl<l  im|)ly.  'Hic  Indians  received  tln'm 
with  a  lli'ihl  of  Jirrows  shot  from  th(!ir  louLr  bows,  oin'  of  whirh  pas.st.'d 
through  (Iddiiy's  shirt  collar,  h.iroly  niissinii  the  iK-ck  ;  our  incii  (ir«!d  their 
ritles  upon  a  steady  aim,  uiid  rushed  in.  Two  Indians  w(!ro  stretched  on 
the  grou'id,  fatally  pierced  with  bullets-,  the  rest  (led, except  a  l;id  that  w:is 
captured.  TIk!  scalps  of  tlie  faluiii  were  instantly  stripped  olf;  but  in  the 
process,  one  of  tluiin,  who  had  two  b;dls  llir()Ut:li  his  body,  sprnii!,'  to  hi.s 
feet,  the  blood  siroamnig  from  his  skinned  head,  and  uttering  a  hiueous 
howl.  An  old  .scpiaw,  possibly  his  mother.  slojjptMl  and  looked  back  I'roni 
the  inonniain  side  she  was  climbini!;,  threateimn:  and  lanuMiliiig.  The 
frighti'iil  speciacli!  appalled  tlu;  stout  he;n!s  of  our  men  ;  but  they  did  what 
humanity  re(juircil,  and  (piickly  terminated  tlu;  agonies  of  tlu;  i^ory  savage. 
'J'liey  were  now  masters  ol  the  camp,  which  was  a  pretty  little  recess  in  tho 
mountain,  with  a  fine  s|)rinir,  and  apparently  safe  from  all  invasion.  (Ireat 
preparations  had  becm  made  to  f(;ast  a  laru'tj  party,  lor  it  was  a  very  proper 
place  for  a  rendezvous,  and  for  the  celebration  of  such  orgiesas  robbers  of 
the  desert  would  delight  in.  Several  of  the  best  horses  had  been  killed, 
skimietl,  and  cut  n|) ;  for  the  Indians  living  in  mountains,  and  only  coining 
into  the  plains  to  rob  and  murder,  make  no  other  use  of  liorses  than  to  eat 
I  hem.  Large  eartlum  vessels  were  tni  the  firt!,  boiling  and  slewing  the 
horse  beef;  and  several  baskets,  containing  fifty  or  sixty  pairs  of  moccasins, 
indicated  the  presence, or  expectation, of  aconsiderable  party.  They  released 
the  boy,  who  had  given  strong  evidence  of  the  stoicism,  or  something  else, 
of  ilu!  savage  character,  in  commencing  his  breakfast  upon  a  horse's  head 
as  soon  as  he  found  .e  was  not  to  be  killed,  but  only  tied  as  a  prisoner. 
Their  object  accomplished,  our  men  gathered  up  all  the  surviving  horses, 
fifteen  in  number,  returned  upon  their  f-iil,  and  rejoined  us  al  our  camp  in 
the  afternoon  of  the  same  day.  They  had  voae  about  one  hundred  miles  iu 
the  pursuit  and  return,  and  all  iu  thirty  hours.  The  time,  place,  object, 
and  numbers,  considered,  this  expedition  of  Carson  and  Godey  may  be  con- 
sidered among  the  boldest  and  most  disinterested  which  the  annals  of  western 
adventure,  so  full  of  daring  d(^eds,  can  j)rcsent.  Two  men,  in  a  savage  des- 
ert, pursue  day  and  night  an  unknown  body  of  Indians  into  the  defiles  of 
an  unknown  mountain — attack  them  on  sight,  without  counting  numbers — 
and  defeat  them  in  an  instant — and  for  what  ?  To  punish  the  robbers  of  the 
desert,  and  to  avenge  tin.'  wrongs  of  Mexicans  whom  they  did  not  know. 
I  repeat:  it  was  Carson  and  Godey  who  did  this — the  former  an  »jQmerica?i, 
born  in  the  Boonslick  county  of  Missouri ;  the  latter  a  Frenchman,  born  in 
St.  Louis — and  botli  trained  to  western  enterprise  from  early  life. 

By  the  information  of  Fuentes,  we  had  now  to  make  a  long  stretch  of 
forty  or  fifty  miles  across  a  plain  which  lay  between  us  and  the  next  possi- 
ble camp;  and  we  resumed  our  journey  late  in  the  afternoon,  with  the  in- 
tention of  travelling  through  the  night,  and  avoiding  the  excessive  heat  of 
the  day,  which  was  oppressive  to  our  animals.  For  several  hours  we  trav- 
elled across  a  high  plain,  passing,  at  the  opposite  side,  through  a  canon  by 
the  bed  of  a  creek  running  northwardly  into  a  small  lake  beyond,  and  both 
of  them  being  dry.  We  had  a  warm,  moonshiny  night ;  and,  travelling  di- 
rec'.iy  towards  the  north  star,  we  journeyed  now  across  an  open  plain  be- 
tween mountain  ridges ;  that  on  the  left  being  broken,  rocky,  and  bald, ac- 
cording to  the  information  of  Carson  and  Godey,  who  had  entered  here  in 


V  : 


'aV 


J. 


248 


r.WT.   KlU: MONT'S  NAIUIATIVE. 


[1844. 


^\' 


pursuit  of  ihu  horses.  'I'hi'  phiitt  appcarrdcoviTPil  |>riii('ipally  with  thr  :i/i^o- 
phylluvi  (Utliforniciitn  already  iiuMitioiH'd  ;  and  iht;  hii«i  of  our  road  was 
marked  hy  the  sUoltitoiis  ol"  horses,  which  wch' streweil  to  a  coiisiderahhi 
hrea(hhover  the  plain.  \\v  were  afterwards  always  warn*  d,  <ni  (Miteriiii^one 
of  these  loiii;;  stretches,  hy  the  hones  of  thc'so  animals,  which  had  p(!rislied 
hefore  they  conid  reach  the  water,  .\hont  niidnii^ht  we  reached  a  consider- 
ahle  stream  hod,  now  dry,  the  disr-huru^i;  of  th(!  waters  of  this  hasin,  (when 
it  collect(ul  any,)  down  which  we  dcsceniled  in  a  nort/iinw/rr/i/  dirtjclion. 
The  creelv  hed  was  overgrown  with  shrnhhe;  y,  anil  se'Tral  hours  heforci 
day  it  hrought  us  to  tin?  entrance  of  a  cafion,  where  wo  found  water,  and 
encamped.  This  word  cmion  is  nsi-d  hy  the  Spaniards  to  si^infy  ;i  delilc 
or  i^orgo  in  a  creek  or  river,  where  hnj:h  rocks  press  in  closi',  and  make  ii 
narrow  way,  usually  dilTicidl,  ami  often  inipossihle  to  he  passotl. 

In  the  mornins?we  found  that  we  had  a  very  poor  cam|)in)L?  ground:  a 
swampy,  salty  spot,  with  a  little  long,  unwholesome  grass  ;  and  tlie  wattjr, 
which  rose  iii  springs,  Ixnnu:  usiUnl  only  to  W(^t  tlu;  month,  hut  entirely  too 
salt  to  drink.  All  aromul  was  sand  and  rocks,  and  ski!l<;lons  of  horses 
whicli  had  not  heen  ahle  to  fnid  support  for  their  lives.  As  wo  were  ahout 
to  start,  we  found,  at  tlu!  distance  of  a  lew  hundred  yards,  among  the  hills 
to  the  southward,  a  spring  i^(  tolerably  good  watiir,  which  was  a  relief  to 
oursclvos;  hut  the  place  was  too  poor  to  remain  h>ng,  and  therefore  wo 
continued  on  this  mornin:^.  On  the  creek  wore  thickets  of  .spirolobhnn 
odoratum  (acacia)  in  hloom,  and  very  fragrant. 

Passing  througli  the  canon,  we  entered  another  sandy  hasin,  through 
which  the  dry  stream  hed  continued  its  northwesterly  course,  in  which  di- 
rection appeared  a  high  snowy  moimlain. 

We  travelled  through  a  barren  district,  where  a  heavy  gale  was  blowing 
about  the  loose  sand,  and,  altcu-  a  ride  of  eight  miles,  reached  a  large  creeic 
of  salt  and  bitter  water,  running  in  a  westerly  direction,  to  receive  the  stream 
bed  we  had  left.  U  is  called  hy  the  Spaniards  %fimurgns(i — the  hitter  water 
of  the  desert.  Where  we  struck  it,  the  stream  bends ;  atid  wo  eontiimed  in 
a  northerly  course  up  the  ravine  of  its  valley,  passing  on  the  way  a  fork 
from  the  right,  near  which  occiu'rcd  a  bed  of  plants,  consisting  of  a  remark- 
able new  geiuis  o(  crucifern'. 

Gradually  ascending,  the  ravine  opened  into  a  green  valley,  where,  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain,  were  springs  of  ccellent  water.  Wo  encamped 
among  groves  of  the  new  acacia,  and  there  was  an  abundance  of  good 
grass  lor  the  animals. 

This  was  the  best  canijiing  ground  we  had  seen  since  wo  struck  the 
Spanish  trail.     The  day's  journey  was  about  12  miles. 

»^pril  29. — To-day  we  had  to  reach  the  Jirchilette,  distant  seven  miles, 
where  the  Mexican  party  had  been  attacked;  and,  leaving  our  encamp- 
ment early,  we  traversed  a  partof  the  desert,  the  most  sterile  and  repulsive 
that  we  had  yet  seen.  Its  ;.;ominent  features  were  dark  sierras,  naked  and 
dry ;  on  the  plains  a  few  straggling  shrubs — among  them,  cactus  of  several 
varieties.  Fuentes  pointed  oat  one  called  by  the  Spaniards  bisnada,  which 
has  a  juicy  pulp,  slightly  acid,  and  is  eaten  by  the  traveller  to  allay  thirst. 
Our  course  was  generally  north;  and,  after  crossing  an  intervening  ridge, 
we  descended  into  a  sandy  plain,  or  basin,  in  the  middle  of  which  was  the 
grassy  spot,  with  its  springs  and  willow  bushes,  which  constitutes  a  camp- 
ing place  in  the  desert,  and  is  called  the  Archilette.  The  dead  silence  of 
the  place  was  ominous;  and,  galloping  rapidly   up,  we  found  only  the 


[1844, 

•();ul  \v:i9 
sidtTublo 
5riiia;oiiM 
I»(?ri.slu5(l 

II,  (wliun 
lirticlioii. 
irs  Ik'Ioi'c^ 
ahM,  juul 
y  ;i  ilclilc 
(I  iiiaUu  a 

;;r()Uii(l:  a 
lie  vviitcr, 
il^rcly  too 
of  liorsos 
re  10  about 
'jr  tlio  hills 
a  relief  lo 
11! fore  wo 
irolobiuni 

n,  through 
which  (il- 
ls hlowitig 
arpo  creclc 
the  stream 
ittor  water 
ntinued  in 
/ay  a  fork 
a  remark- 

I,  where,  at 
encamped 
;c  of  good 

Istruck  the 

kven  miles, 
|r  cncamp- 
rcYHilsive 
I naked  and 
of  several 
ida,  which 
[Uay  thirst, 
liing  ridge, 
\\\  was  the 
js  a  camp- 
silence  of 
only  the 


1844.1 


(•APT.  FIIKMO.NTH  NAIlHA'nVK 


'iV.i 


corpsrs  of  the  two  lutMi :  every  tliins^  oLso  wii.s  t^oiii*.  'I'lieyr  wore  imkod, 
nuililuted,  iiiid  pierced  with  arrows.  Ileriiatide/  Mad  evi<l<>iitly  fought,  and 
with  desperation,  lie  lay  in  advaiKui  of  (he  willow  half-fac(!d  tent,  which 
sh(;lter(!d  his  fainily.  as  if  li>!  had  come  out  to  meet  (hiiiLr<  r,  'ind  to  repui.sft 
It,  from  that  asylum.  One  of  his  li:inds,  and  hoili  his  ic/sjiad  h(>eu  cut 
oil.  (liacoine,  who  was  a  lar-^i'  iiiid  .stroni,'-lookini,'  man,  w.is  lymij;  in  one 
of  th(j  willow  shelters,  pien^ed  with  arrows.  Of  the  women  no  irae»5  e-oiihl 
he  foutid,  and  it  was  evident  •'ey  had  heeii  carried  cd'  r.ipiive.  A  little 
lap-doi,',  which  had  heloiiL^'ed  to  Pablo's  mother,  rei./ained  wilh  the  dead 
bodies,  and  was  frantic  with  joy  at  seeiiii,'  i'ablo  :  he,  poor  ehiM,  was  franlic 
with  grief;  and  filled  iIm;  air  wilh  lamentations  fir  hi::  father  /md  luotlier. 
A/i /unfrc  !  Mi  tnttt/n' ! — was  his  incessant  cry  When  we  beiiell  'his 
pitiable  sii^lit,  and  pictured  to  oiirstilves  iIkj  (ale<.f  iho  two  won. en,  earned 
olf  by  savages  so  brutal  and  .so  loathsome,  all  (;oin|'iiiieiion  for  the  ;f.'i'ped- 
alive  Indian  cea.sed  ;  and  we  rejoiced  lhal(>arson  and  (Jodey  had  been  able. 
to  give  so  usefid  a  lesson  lo  lliesjj  Aineriern  Arabs,  who  lio  in  wait  to 
murder  and  ])lund(M' the  iiiiio(M!iit  traveller. 

We  were  all  loo  iniich  allecled  by  ijie  sad  feelings  wliieh  the  place  iri- 
s|)ired,  to  remain  an  uniu'ci-sary  moment.  The  night  wi;  were  obliged  to 
jiass  there.  Early  in  the  morning  we  left  it,  having  (irst  written  a  I.Tief 
account  of  what  had  happtMieil,and  put  it  in  the  cleft  of  a  poli;  planted  at  the 
spring,  that  the  apiiroachiiui;  caravan  might  learn  the  (ate  of  their  friends. 
Iti  commemoration  of  the  (ivenl,  we  called  tiie  place  t^/^iu/  i/r  llcnntndcz — 
Jlernandez's  spring.     IJy  observation,  its  latitude  was  :J5"  HI'  iil". 

Jlpril  30. — We  continued  our  journey  over  a  district  simil.'ir  to  that  of 
tlieday  before.  From  the  sandy  l)asin,  in  which  was  the  .spring,  wee-ntered 
another  basin  of  tiu!  sainc!  character,  suri;ounde(l  every  where;  by  moun- 
tains. Before  us  str«!tclied  ;i  high  range,  risinu;  still  higher  to  the  left,  and 
terminating  in  a  snowy  monnlain. 

After  a  day's  march  of  2  t  miles,  we  reached  at  eveuin<r  the  bed  of  a 
stream  from  which  the  wat(!r  had  disappeared;  a  little  only  remained  in 
holes,  which  we  increa.sed  by  diirging^  and  about  a  mil»!  above,  the  stream, 
not  yet  entirely  sunk,  was  spread  out  over  the  sands,  allording  a  little  water 
for  the  animals.  The  stream  caiuf  out  of  the  mountains  on  the  left,  very 
slightly  wooded  wilh  cotton  wood,  willow,  and  acacia, and  afew  dwarf  oaks; 
and  grass  was  nearly  as  scarce  as  water.  A  plant  with  showy  yellov/ 
flowers  {Stanleya  inlc^rifoliu)  occurred  abuudanlly  at  intervals  for  the 
last  two  days,  and  crioi^onum  'uijlatum  was  among  the  characteristic  plants. 

May  1. — The  air  is  rough,  and  overcoats  pleasant.  The  sky  is  blue,  and 
the  day  bright.  Our  road  was  over  a  plain,  towards  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain; zy^ophyllum  Culifornicum,  now  in  bloom  with  a  small  yellow  tlower, 
is  characteristic  of  the  coiint»y  ;  and  cacti  were  very  abundant,  and  in 
rich  fresh  bloom,  which  wonderfully  ornaments  this  poor  country.  We 
encamped  at  a  spring  in  the  pass,  which  had  been  the  site  of  an  old  village. 
Here  we  found  excellent  grass,  but  very  little  water.  We  dug  out  the  old 
spring,  and  watered  some  of  our  animals.  The  mountain  here  was  wooded 
very  slightly  with  the  nut  pine,  cedars,  and  a  dwarf  species  of  oak  ;  and 
among  the  shrubs  were  Pursfiia  tridentata,  arlemisiu,  and  ephedra  ncci- 
dentalis.  The  numerous  shrubs  which  constitute  the  vegetation  of  the 
plains  are  now  in  bloom,  with  flowers  of  white,  yellow,  red,  and  purple. 
The  continual  rocks,  and  want  of  water  and  grass,  begin  to  be  very  hard  on 
our  mules  and  horses ;  but  the  principal  loss  is  occasioned  by  their  crippled 


.:/.  \ 


,  I 


>,■• 


2.10 


('APT.  PRKMONT'H  NAKRA'I  iVK. 


I  1^14. 


t:t\. 


Iciit,  l\\v  p[r«';ii«r  pari  ot"  lliosn  It'll  luin^  in  oxci'llftiit  order,  ami  scarcely  a 
(lay  passus  witlioiit  soino  loss;  and,  oiui  by  oiio,  Fiit'iitos'.s  lior.s«.>s  aro  coa- 
«luiilly  dro|i|>iiiu  htdiiml.  Wlmiuivc^r  ilii;ymvc  out,  he  disinoiuits  and  cul!? 
oC  tlit'ir  tails  and  nian«ts,  to  inaUii  .saddl*^  uirilis  ;  tlic  lust  udvuntago  one  oati 
gain  troni  iIkmm. 

Tho  niixt  day,  in  a  short  but  roni?h  rido  of  12  ndlos,  we  crossed  tli-' 
liioiintaiii ;  and,  descending'  toasm.ill  valley  plain,  encamped  at  the  loot 
of  the  lidije,  on  the  hed  of  a  eroilc,  where  w«;  found  goo<l  irrass  in  siilllrionr. 
(|Hantily,  and  ahinalance  of  water  in  holes,  'I'Ik!  ridge  is  extreriKily  ruggoij 
and  broken,  |>resenting  on  this  side  a  continued  procipico,  and  probably 
atl'ords  very  few  passes.  Many  (lii^i^cr  tracks  are  seen  around  us,  but  no 
Indians  were  visible. 

Alai/  :i. — After  a  day's  journey  of  is  miles,  in  a  northeasterly  direction. 
WG  encamped  in  the  midst  of  anoihcr  very  large  basin,  at  a  camping  ground 
called  /(ts  rrv^na — a  term  which  the  Spaniards  use  to  signify  fertile  or 
marshy  plains,  in  contradistinction  to  //(tnos\  whicli  they  apply  to  dry  anu 
sterile  plains.  Two  narrow  streams  of  clear  water,  four  or  five  feet  deep, 
gusli  sudtlenly,  with  a  ([uick  current,  from  two  singularly  largo  springs; 
these,  and  other  waters  of  the  basm,  pass  out  in  a  gap  to  the  eastward. 
The  taste  of  the  water  is  good,  but  rather  too  warm  to  be  agreeable;  tht' 
temperature  being  71"  in  the  one,  and  73 '  in  the  other.  They,  liowever. 
aUbrdetl  a  delightful  bathing  place. 

Ahty  A. — We  started  this  morninu:  earlier  than  usual,  travelling  in  a  north- 
easterly direction  acro.ss  the  plain  The  \m\\v  acacia  {apirnlnbintn  ndordlnrn , 
has  now  become  the  characteristic  tr(!e  ot"  the  country ;  it  is  in  bloom,  ami 
its  blossoms  are  very  fragrant.  The  day  was  still,  and  the  heat,  which 
soon  became  very  oppressive,  app(5.irefl  to  bring  out  strongly  the  refreshiti!,' 
scent  of  the  zygophyllaceous  shrubs  and  the  sweet  perfume  of  the  acacia. 
Tlu!  snowy  ridge  we  had  just  crossed  looked  out  conspicuously  in  tht- 
northwest.  In  about  five  hours'  ride,  we  crossed  a  gap  in  the  surrounding, 
ridge,  and  the  appearanccof  skeletons  of  horses  very  soon  warned  us  that  we 
were  engaged  in  another  dry  jornutjo,  which  proved  the  longest  we  liad 
made  in  all  our  journey — between  fifty  and  sixty  miles  without  a  drop  (jI 
water. 

Travellers  through  countries  affording  water  and  timber  can  have  no 
conception  of  our  intolerable  thirst  while  journeying  over  the  hot  yellow 
sands  of  this  elevated  country,  where  the  heated  air  seems  to  be  entirely 
deprived  of  moisture.  We  ate  occasionally  the  bisnaduy  and  moistened 
our  mouths  with  the  acid  of  the  sour  dock,  {riunex  venosus.)  Hourly  ex- 
pecting to  find  water,  we  continued  to  press  on  until  towards  midnight, 
when,  after  a  hard  and  uninterrupted  march  of  IG  hours,  our  wild  mules 
began  running  ahead;  and  in  a  mile  or  two  we  came  to  a  bold  running 
stream — so  keen  is  the  sense  of  that  animal,  in  these  desert  regions,  in 
scenting  at  a  distance  this  necessary  of  lilc. 

According  to  the  information  we  had  received,  Sevier  river  was  a  tribu- 
tary of  the  Colorado ;  and  this,  accordingly,  should  have  been  one  of  it.s 
affluents.  It  proved  to  be  the  Rin  dc  las  Jltii^^eles  (river  of  the  Angels) — a 
branch  of  the  Rio  Virgen  (river  of  the  Virgin.) 

Mai/  5. — On  account  of  our  animals,  it  was  necessary  to  remain  to-day 
at  this  place.  Indians  crowded  numerously  around  us  in  the  morning : 
and  we  were  obliged  to  keep  arms  in  hand  all  day,  to  keep  them  om 
of  the  camp.     They  began  to  surround  the  horses,  which,  for  the  conve- 


IflH.l 


(  A I'T.  r R I : Nt I ) N  I  M  N Alt U ATI V E , 


321 


jicarcniy  a 
OS  ar»^  c«)i\- 
ts  nmi  cufi 
go  otie  o;ui 

irossecl  th'' 
at  ihn  loot 
I)  .stilllriuiir. 
Kfly  ruggcii 
(1  [)ri)l)ultly 
1  us,  but  110 

y  (lirontioii. 
)ii)!^  ground 
y  lortile  or 
to  dry  and 
I!  feet  deep, 
r^i  springs; 
e  eastward, 
eeabic ;  tin' 
',  however. 

r  iu  a  tiortli- 
i  f)(lor(rlnni , 
bloom,  aiul 
leat,  wliicli 
e  rolVesliiii;^, 
(the  acacia. 
)usly  in  tli'.- 

rroundiiig. 

us  that  wt: 
est  we  hail 
ut  a  drop  o! 

an  have  no 
hot  yellow- 
bo  entirely 
inoistent'il 
Hourly  ex- 
midnight, 
wild  mules 
old  running 
regions,   in 

was  a  tribu- 
i  one  of  its 
Angels) — a 

nain  to-day 
3  morning  : 
them  Gu: 
•  the  conve- 


nionre  of  ^rnss,  we  were  guardnig  a  hitii;  above, on  the  river.    'I'hrMe  were 
inuiiediutrly  driven  in,  and  k<>pl  clo.se  to  the  canip. 

In  llie  daiKness  of  the  night  we  liiid  Miade  u  wry  bad  encanipinent,  oni 
fires  bi'iiiK  ftMnnwuidt'd  by  a  ro<'ky  binlf  wiiliin  .'iO  yards  ;  but,  notwilJistand- 
ing,  we  had  lli<-  river  anil  sinull  llncketsof  willow.son  (he  other  side.  Several 
times  during  llin  day  the  r;ini|»  was  insulted  by  the  Inilians  ;  but,  peace 
being  our  oljjeri,  I  kept  simply  on  the  delensive.  Some  of  the  Indians  were 
on  the  bottoms  and  others  harangniiiv:  us  lr»^m  the  bluffs;  and  they  were 
scattered  ni  every  direction  over  the  lulls.  Their  language  being  probably 
a  dialert  of  the  Utah,  with  the  aid  of  sians  .some  of  our  people  eould  com- 
prehend ihem  very  well.  'I'hey  were  iho  siinio  people  who  hail  nmrdered 
the  Mexicans;  and  towards  us  llnMr  disposition  was  evideiilly  hostde,  nor 
were  we  well  disposed  towanis  thenj.  They  were  barefooted,  and  nearly 
naked  ;  th*:tr  hair  gatlieri'd  up  into  a  knot  behind  ;  and  with  his  bow,  each 
man  carried  a  (jiiiver  with  thirty  or  forty  arrows  partially  drawn  out. 
Besides  ih.se,e;ieh  h(;ld  in  his  hand  two  oi  three  arrows  for  instant  .service. 
Their  arrows  ar(!  barbed  with  a  very  clear  lranslue''tit  stone,  a  species  of 
opal,  nearly  as  hard  as  the  diamond;  and,  shot  from  their  long  bow,  are  al- 
most as  edeciive  us  a  gunsliot.  In  these  hxlians,  I  was  foreibly  struck  by  an 
expression  of  countenance  njsembling  that  in  a  beast  of  prey  ;  and  all  their 
actiojis  ari!  those  of  wild  animals,  .joined  to  tin;  restles.s  motion  of  the  eye, 
there  is  a  want  of  mind — an  absence  of  ihonght — and  an  action  wholly  by 
impulse,  strongly  expressed,  and  which  constantly  recalls  the  similarity. 

A  man  who  appeared  to  boa  chief,  with  two  or  three  others,  forced  hini- 
.self  into  eanip,  liringing  with  him  his  arms,  in  s|)ite  of  my  orders  to  the 
contr;iry.  When  shown  our  weapons,  he  bored  his  ear  with  his  fingers, and 
said  he  could  not  hear.  «*  Wjiy,''  said  he,  "  there  are  nojie  of  you."  Count- 
ing the  people  aroinid  the  c;imp,  and  including  in  the  mnnber  a  mtile 
which  was  being  shod,  he  made  out  22.  •"  So  many,"  .said  he,  showing  tho 
number,  "and  we — wo  arc  a  great  many,"  and  h(!  pointed  to  tht^  hill':J  and 
mountains  round  about.  ''  If  you  have  your  arms,"  said  he,  twanging  his 
bow,  "  we  havf!  these."  I  had  some  dillicnlty  in  restraining  the  people, 
particularly  Carson,  who  felt  an  insult  of  this  kind  as  nuich  as  if  it  had 
been  given  by  a  more  responsible  being.  "  Don't. say  that,  old  man,"  said 
he;  "don't  you  say  that — your  life's  in  danger" — speaking  iu  good  Eng- 
Ush ;  and  juobably  the  old  man  was  nearer  to  his  end  than  he  will  be  be- 
fore he  meets  it. 

Several  animals  had  been  necessarily  left  behind  near  the  camp  last 
uight ;  and  early  in  the  morning,  before  tho  Indians  made  their  appearance, 
several  men  were  sent  to  bring  them  in.  When  I  was  beginning  to  be  un- 
easy at  their  absence,  they  returned  with  information  that  they  had  been 
driven  off  from  the  trail  by  Indians  ;  and,  having  followed  the  tracks  in  o 
short  distance,  they  found  the  animals  cut  uj)  and  spread  out  upon  bushes. 
In  the  evening  I  gave  a  fatigued  horse  to  some  of  the  Indians  for  a  feast; 
and  the  village  which  carried  him  off  refused  to  share  with  the  others,  who 
made  loud  complaints  from  the  rocks  of  the  partial  distribution.  Many  of 
these  Indians  had  long  slicks,  hooked  at  the  end,  which  they  used  in  haul- 
ing out  lizards,  and  other  small  animals,  from  their  holes.  During  the  day 
they  occasionally  roasted  and  ate  lizards  at  our  fires.  These  belong  to  the 
people  who  are  generally  known  under  the  name  of  Diggers ;  and  to  these 
I  have  more  particularly  had  reference  when  occasionally  speaking  of  a 
people  whose  sole  occupation  is  to  procure  food  sufficient  to  support  ex- 


x      ' 


;.- 


15'.^ 


(Arr.  I'MKMONI'X  NAIlMATIVi: 


[1844. 


mH'Hoo,  *rin»  foriuntiMi)  \\vrr  rmiolHiN  of  flm*  yllow  ♦♦nmlxion*',  nllnmnt* 
iim  with  ti  ciiiiisi'  niiiuliiiiinrali',  iii  wliirli  llin  Jilitiitvs  an'  rrniii  llii;  ni/.i*  itf 
urditiuiy  Kravrl  to  nix  or  imuIii  iihIihn  hi  tliatiititrr.  Tins  m  iId'  roriiiulioii 
wliit'li  r(Mi(i<irN  ilii;  Miirl'ai'M  orilio  i*oiiiiiry  no  roirky.  ami  uMvi's  iin  now  a  roa<l 
ailiTiiati'ly  of  loo.-nn  luiivv  siiiids  ami  rolli^il  Ntoiirs,  wliicli  (*ri|i|)lii  llin  uin- 
iiials  III  a  iiiosl  «txliaoi>liiiary  iiiaiiiicr 

Oii  tliii  r«>llowiiiL;  iiiiiriiiiik{  wo  lilt  llio  ffio  (fi'  Ins  ,fin(f/f.i,  and  roiiiiiiiiinj 
our  way  tliroiiidi  ilic  sanif  ilcsohUi!  and  rovoliiiii;  coinili  v,  wIkto  ll/.urdN 
w<>ro  till*  only  amiiial,  and  tlio  tiartis  ot'  llir  li/.aid  oatoiN  tli>'  |»rin('i|)al  siurii 
ol  hiiiuaii  licMiiKH.  AlKM-  iwi'iitv  iniit's'  inircli  tliroii^h  a  ntad  ol  lulls  ami 
lu'tivy  NaiuN,  w*-  riMirlu'd  llic  iiiosi  droary  nvi-r  I  liavo  ovi  nocii  -a  d«'«i|» 
riipid  Niroain,  aliiioNl  a  lorinii.  passim^  Nwiltly  by,  and  ro  tiini<  aKUiiiNt  oh 
Nli'iKMioiiN.  I'll!'  iMidvs  Will'  woDilt'd  willi  wdlow,  acacia,  and  a  rici|iii>iit 
planl  ol  llio  coiiniiv  alrcadv  incniionod,  {(inrri/n  rf/i/i/ini,)  mowing  in 
ilnckcls,  rcMMnhJini^  willow,  mid  licaiint^  u  Ninall  pink  Mower.  Orossing  it, 
wu  (Micainpcd  on  tln^  Icli  ItanU,  wIick;  wo  loiind  a  very  lilllif  grasN.  Our 
tliriu*  ruinaiinng  stems,  hcmi;  cniircly  given  out,  were  Killed  liero.  My  the 
lioiiiiig  point,  (he  elovalioii  ol  the  riv(<r  lien^  is  l.oiiil  leet  ;  and  laliinile,  hy 
oh.snrvation,  ;l(» '  1 1 '  ;<;{".  The  stream  was  rnnnini;  towards  ih<;  soiilhwi'sl, 
and  appeared  to  come  liom  a  snowy  inoiiniain  in  lln^  north.  It  proved  to 
hi'  tlie  Jtio  I  'ir^i  n — a  inhiilary  to  the  (Colorado.  Indians  appeare(l  m  hands 
on  the  hills,  hiit  did  not  cuini'  into  camp.  l''or  several  days  we  coiiliniied 
our  journey  lip  the  river,  ihe  hoiionis  ol'  which  were  thickly  ovorgrown 
with  various  kinds  ot  hrnsli ;  and  lh<;  sandy  soil  was  ahsolnlitly  covid  d 
with  till?  Hacks  of  /)iir\'erx,  who  lollowed  lis  sieulthily,  like  a  hand  ol 
wolvos;  and  we  had  lU)  opportnniiv  tt»  leavii  lu'hind,  even  lor  a  lew  hours, 
the  tired  aniiiKils,  in  order  that  they  niiv'ht  he  hronuht  into  camp  alter  a 
little  repose.  A  horse  or  ninle,  lelt  heliind,  was  taken  oil'  in  a  inoniont. 
On  the  t'venini;  ol"  the  f<ili,  having  travelled  'JS  miles  up  the  river  from  our 
first  eiieampnient  on  il,  we  encamped  at  a  liltl(!  grass  plat,  where  a  spring 
of  cool  water  issued  from  the  hinll.  On  the  opposite  side  was  a  grove  ot 
coltonwoods  at  the  tnoiilh  of  a  fork,  which  here  enters  the  river.  0  i 
either  side  the  valley  is  honiiiletl  hy  ranges  of  mountains, every  where  liIjT^, 
rocky,  and  hroki-n.  The  caravan  road  was  lost  and  scalter(Ml  in  the  sandy 
country,  and  we  luul  bei-n  lollowiiig  an  Indian  trail  up  tlu;  river.  The 
hmiteis  the  next  day  were  sent  out  to  reconnoitre,  and  in  the  mean  time 
wo  moved  about  a  mile  farther  up,  where  wo  found  a  good  lilth!  patch  of 
grass.  There  being  only  sullieient  grass  for  the  night,  the  horscis  were 
sent  with  a  strong  guard  in  charge  ol  Tabeaii  to  a  neighboring  hollow, 
wiiere  they  might  i)astiir»!  during  tlie  day;  and,  to  be  ready  incase  the  In- 
dians should  make  any  attempt  on  the  animals,  several  of  the  best  horses 
were  picketed  at  the  camp.  In  a  few  hours  the  hunters  returned,  havuig 
lound  a  convenient  ford  in  the  river,  and  discovered  the  Spanish  trail  on 
llie  other  side. 

I  had  been  engaged  in  arranging  plants  ;  and,  fatigued  with  the  heat  of 
the  day,  I  fell  asleep  in  the  afternoon,  and  did  not  awake  until  sundown. 
Presently  Carson  came  to  me,  and  reported  that  Tabeau,  who  early  in  the 
day  had  lel't  his  i)ost,  and,  wiihout  my  knowledge,  rode  back  to  the  camp 
we  had  left,  in  search  of  a  lame  mule,  had  not  returned.  While  we  were 
speaking,  a  smoke  rose  huJdenly  from  the  cottonwood  grove  below,  which 
plainly  told  us  what  had  befallen  him;  it  was  raised  to  inform  the  sur- 
rounding Indians  that  a  blow  had  been  struck,  and  to  tell  them  to  be  on 


-^^   :^^-i^   _^    ^   ^ 

▼ 

1IH44. 

r),  nlli^riitU* 

1|H'    HI/.«'    nf 

'    iorillKtlMII 

iKuv  (i  mail 

>lti  llin  uiii- 

WB 


\  rotilliillDtl 
H'rr  li/iirds 
iii(*i|ial  Hluii 
ol  lulls  uiiil 
m  11  (l«'r|» 
agaiiiKt  III) 

I  a  iVitqiUMil 
^rowill^  ill 
(!rossm^  il, 

f^ia.NS.  Onr 
ro.  By  ill'" 
laliliidc.  I>y 

'  SdlltllWt'Sl, 

II  proved  to 
rt'd  III  liatwls 
'«!  coiiliiiiKvl 

oviMi^rown 
Idly  covt  i<  d 
!  :i  band  ol 
a  low  horns, 
iiiiip  alliT  a 
a  iii')tneiit. 
cr  iVom  our 
(Ml!  a  spring' 
s  a  f^rovo  ot 
river,     (i  i 
wImtg  In?*^, 
ill  tliu  sandy 
liver.     The 
mean  time 
nil',  patch  of 
horses  were 
iiig  hollow, 
case  the  In- 
best  horses 
lied,  havhig 
isli  trail  on 

1  the  heat  of 
1  sundown, 
early  in  the 
to  the  camp 
lie  we  were 
elow,  which 
rm  the  sur- 
m  to  be  on 


inu.] 


«!AI»T    KIlP.MriNT'H  NARMATIVK. 


3^1 


their  ^itard.  (  iirMMi,  with  NitvtTiil  iniMi  widl  inoiihltd,  was  inMaiitly  himiI 
down  ilu'  river,  hut  rrtiirni'd  in  iIm*  iiikIi(  witlioiii  tiding**  of  llwi  lnlSNln^ 
man.  'rimy  wcnl  to  ilir  ramp  Wf  hud  1)11.  I>ii'  nrithrr  ho  nor  the  innU* 
was  th«'r«v  SnairlmiL;  down  llii-  river,  ihey  loiiiid  ilie  lrarl<'.  o|  the  mule, 
(tvidnnily  driven  iilium  by  Indiana,  whose  tiaei.s  were  on  eaeh  Nide  ol  ihoNi* 
miide  by  the  animal.  Alter  uoUik  Neveral  miles,  they  canM)  to  ilm  mnbt  it« 
sell,  Miandiitu  in  some  biislieN,  morlally  wounded  m  the  side  by  an  arrow, 
and  left  to  die,  (bat  it  ml^llt  be  alierwards  biihliered  lor  lood.  They  also 
loimd.  III  another  plaee.an  they  were  bimliiiLi:  ;ilioiii  on  the  ground  lorTa- 
beau'.N  tracks,  sonietliMm  that  looked  like  a  liille  puddle  ot  blood,  bill  which 
the  darkness  prevenletl  them  trom  verilyin'.^'  W  ilh  these  di;tails  they  ru- 
turned  tr)  our  e;imp,  and  their  i<;pori  saddei>«d  all  oiii  hearts. 

/1/r///  10.  -This  mnriiiiiur,  as  soon  as  there  was  lii^ht  etionuh  to  jollow 
tracks,  I  set  out  myselt,  with  Mr.  Kil/pattick  and  .several  men,  in  search  ot 
Tabeail.  We  went  to  the  spot  where  ibe  appear.ilM'e  ol  puddled  blood  had 
been  nccmi  ;  and  ihi^,  we  saw  at  orie<>,  bad  been  the  place  wlnu'e  he  Itdl  and 
died,  lilood  upon  the  haves,  and  iieateii  down  bit  lies, showed  that  be  liad 
^ot  his  wound  about  twenty  paite.s  Irmn  where  he  jell, and  that  be  had  stru^• 
•.'led  lor  his  life.  Me  bad  pndiably  Ixteii  shot  ibroii^h  the  liin^s  with  an 
.arrow.  I-'kuii  the  pl;ice  where  be  lay  and  bled,  ii,  could  be  scmmi  that  he  had 
been  (Irat'Ljed  lo  ilie  river  b.ink,  and  thrown  into  il.  No  vestige  of"  what, 
had  belon^'ed  to  bun  could  be  louiid,e.\cept  a  Ira^'tiKint  of  his  horse  equip- 
merit.  I lorse,^iin, clothes — all  iH.came  the  prey  rd  these  Arabs  ol"  the  New 
World. 

Tabeail  had  been  one  of  our  best  men,  and  his  unhappy  death  Npn^ad  .i 
^loom  over  our  parly.  Men,  who  have  i^one  iliroUL;h  such  dant^ers  and 
suHerin^s  as  wi!  had  .se»!ii,  b"C()me  like  brothers,  and  leel  (jacli  otln'r's  loss. 
To  defend  and  aveii'_'e  e;ic|i  other,  is  ilie  deep  ftelin<^'  of  all.  We  wish»,'d 
to  aveni;e  his  death;  but  tlii!  coiidiiioii  of  our  horses,  lani,'Uishing  for  gra.ss 
and  repose,  forbade  an  expedilioii  into  iiiiknowii  mountains.  We  kriewtfie 
tribe  who  h;id  done  the  mischief — the  same  which  lia(i  been  insulting  our 
camp.  Tli<!y  knew  what  ibey  dr'si?rved,  and  had  the  discretion  to  show 
themselves  lo  us  no  moie.  The  day  bcjfore,  they  mlested  our  ('amp;  now, 
not  one  a[)peared  ;  nor  did  we  ev(!r  afterward.s  see  but  one  who  even  be- 
longed to  the  same  tribe,  and  he  at  a  distance. 

Our  camp  was  in  a  basin  below  a  deep  cafioii — a  ga[>  of  two  thousand 
feet  deep  in  the  moiiiilaiii — through  which  the;  ///Vy  I'irt^t'n  passes,  and 
■where  no  man  or  beast  could  follow  it.  The  S|)amsli  trail,  which  we  baiJ 
lost  in  the  sands  of  the  basin,  was  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  We 
crossed  over  to  it,  and  followed  it  northwardly  towards  a  gap  which  was 
visible  in  the  mountain.  We  approached  it  by  a  defile,  rendered  dillicult 
for  our  barefooted  animals  by  the  rocks  strewed  along  it ;  and  here  the 
country  changed  its  character.  From  the  time  we  entered  the  desert,  the 
mountains  had  been  bald  and  rocky;  here  they  began  to  be  wooded  with 
cedar  and  pine,  and  clusters  of  trees  gave  shelter  to  birds — a  new  and  wel- 
come sight — which  could  not  have  lived  in  the  desert  we  had  pas.sed. 

Descending  a  long  hollow, towards  the  narrow  valley  of  a  stream,  we  saw 
before  us  a  snowy  mountain,  far  beyond  which  appcsared  another  more  lofty 
still.  Good  bunch  grass  began  to  appear  on  the  hill  sides,  and  here  we  found 
a  singular  variety  of  interesting  shrubs.  The  changed  appearance  of  th*^ 
country  infused  among  our  people  a  more  lively  spirit,  wiiich  was  heightened 


t    I 


j 


254 


<'Ai*T.  rin:Mo.\T'.s  varrativk. 


1814. 


by  finding  ,it  ovoiiing  :i  lialtinij  plarc  of  very  good  grnss  on  ilio  clear  waters  ' 
o\'  \\w  Sttnia  (^/(ira  fork  of  iln;  /^io  I'irirni. 

Atii]^  11. — 'I'lio  iiiorriiiiL;:  was  r.loiuly  iuid  (itiilc  cool,  with  a  sliowor  of 
ram — llu!  first  wo  liavo  had  .siiictj  ciitcMini^  llio  dusnrt,  a  period  of  tw<rity- 
.srvcii  dayx  ;  aini  wo  sivmu  to  \\.i\o  ciiforiMl  a  dillertMil  ijliiiialc,  with  the  usual 
Wi'i'lluir  of  ti»(5  Kocky  looiiiilaiiis.  Oiir  marcli  to-day  was  vciy  lalionous, 
over  very  Itrokeii  ground,  aloiii^  llio  Santa  Clara  river;  but  iImmi  tlin  coun- 
try is  no  longer  so  disiressiiii;ly  d(  solate.  'I'lic  sirtsiui  is  i)rcllily  wooded 
with  sweet  Cottonwood  irees  — son»e  of  them  of  larye  si/c  ;  and  on  the  hills, 
wh(!re  the  Uiit  j)iMe  is  olien  svu,  'y  good  and  wholesome  grass  occurs  fr(!- 
»|ucntly.  This  co!tt)nwood,  which  s  now  in  iVnil.  is  of  a  <li(rt'renl  species 
from  any  in  Michaux's  Sylva.  Heavy  dark  clouds  covered  the  sky  m  the 
evening,  and  a  cold  wind  sprang  up,  making  (ires  and  oV(!rcoats  comforta- 
ble. 

ilA///  I  'J. — A  litlle  ahove  our  cncainpmnut,  the  river  forkiMl  ;  and  wo  con- 
inied  up  the  right  hand  branch,  graiiually  ascendiiii,'  towards  the  stmimit 
of  liie  mounlain.  As  we  rose  towards  the  head  ol  llie  (;r(M'lc,  llu;  snowy 
niomilain  on  our  riidit  showed  out  handsomely — high  and  rugged  with 
precipices,  and  (0V(M(Mi  wilii  snow  for  ahoM  two  thousand  \'rc.\  iVom  their 
sunnnils  down.  Our  animals  were  somewhat  rcjjaid  for  their  hard  marches 
by  an  excellent  can\ping  gromid  on  the  summit  of  tht  ricUc.  which  forms 
here  the  dividing  chain  hetwiMMi  the  watersol' (he  /i*/';  /V/'^'w/,  whit^i  goes 
south  to  the  Colorado,  and  iIiom-  of  Sevier  river,  lh)wing  northwardly, and 
belonging  to  the  (Ireai  l^asin.  We  considered  ourselves  r.s  crossing  the 
rim  of  (he  basin;  and,  entering  it  at  this  jioint,  we  foimd  here  an  exten- 
sive mountain  meadow,  rich  in  lumch  grass,  and  fresh  wnh  numerous 
springs  of  clear  water,  all  rolVesJniig  and  delightful  to  look  u:)ou.  ll  was, 
in  fact,  that  las  Vt^aadc  Sanht  C!tir<t,  which  had  been  so  long  f>resen(ed  to 
us  as  the  terminatini:  point  of  the  desert,  and  where  the  -unuial  c::ravati 
from  (/alifornia  to  New  Mexico  halted  and  recruileU  lor  some  wt  iks.  It 
Mas  a  very  sui(al.le  place  (o  recover  iVom  the  fatigue  and  exhaustion  of  a 
month's  suti'ermg  in  (he  liot  aiKJ  sterile  desert.  The  meadow  was  about  a 
mile  wifle,  and  some  tim  miK-s  long,  bordered  by  grassy  hills  aiul  moun- 
taiiis — some  of  the  latter  rising  two  thousand  feet,  and  white  with  snow 
uown  to  the  level  ol  the  rwij^a^.  Its  elevation  above  the  sea  was  5,2S0  feet; 
latitude,  by  observation,  ;37 '  iiS'  2S"  ;  and  its  distance  from  where  we  first 
struck  the  Spanish  (rail  about  four  hunih'cd  miles.  Counting  from  the  time 
we  reached  the  desert,  and  bi-gan  to  skirt,  at  our  descent  from  ^V^alker's 
Pass  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  we  had  travelled  550  miles,  occupying  twen- 
ty-seven days,  in  that  inhospitable  r(!gion.  In  passing  before  the  great 
caravan,  we  had  the  advantage  of  finding  more  grass,  but  the  disadvantage 
o(  finding  also  the  maraudin'^;  savages,  who  had  gathered  down  upon  the 
trail,  waiting  the  approach  i)i' that  jirey.  This  greatly  iiicroa'^ed  our  labors. 
hesi(h'S  costing  us  the  iil'c  ;;!'  mm  excellent  man.  We  had  to  move  all  day  in 
a  state  ol  watch,  and  prepared  lor  combat — scouts  and  ilankers  out,  a  front 
and  rear  division  of  our  men,  and  liaggage  animals  in  the  ctMitre,  At  night, 
camp  duly  was  severe.  Those  v/ho  had  toiled  all  day,  had  to  guard,  by 
turns,  the  camp  atid  the  horses  all  night.  Frequently  one-third  of  the  whole 
party  were  on  guard  at  once  ;  and  nothing  bi.t  this  vigilance  saved  us  from 
attack.  We  were  constantly  dogged  by  bands,and  even  whole  tribes  of  the 
marauders  ;  and  although  Tabcau  was  killed,  and  our  camp  infested  and  in- 
sulted by  seme,  while  swarms  of  them  remained  on  the  hills  and  mountain 


I 


i^ 


ar  waters 

iliowdr  of 
r  twnty- 

the  usual 
liihorious, 

tlin  coiin- 
y  wooded 
II  tliii  hills, 
)ccur8  IVe- 
Mit  species 
sky  Ml  the 

couiforlii- 

)d  we  con- 
Ii('.  sunnnil 
llio  snowy 
mi^ed  with 
iVoMi  their 
rd  ni.uche.s 
hich  Ibrnis 
which  goes 

^^ardiViiinfl 
rosoiiug  the 
all  rxteu- 
uunierouK 
1.     It  was, 
>r<'seuted  to 
al  ciravnii 
Wfi'ks.     It 
usiiou  of  a 
us  about  a 
and  I  noun - 
with  suow 
5,280  feet; 
M-c  we  first 
111  the  time 
li  Walker's 
^'iug  twen- 
ihe   great 
advantage 
I  upon  the 
our  labors, 
all  day  in 
[out,  a  front 
At  night, 
guard,  by 
the  whole 
ed  us  from 
ibes  of  the 
;ted  and  in- 
mountain 


1844.1 


(.APT.  FKi:.M()NTM  NAKKU'IVK. 


255 


t;   !! 


sidc.«?,  there  was  nmnifcstly  a  consultalion  and  cnlculation  ^oing  on,  to  decide 
the  (|neslion  of  a(tackini(  us.  Ilavini,'  itNiched  (he  rcstitii,'  |»lact'  of  the  AV'- 
Af^/.v  dv  Sdulii  ainra,  we  had  coniplcM'  rchef  from  llie  heal  and  [)iivalioi)s 
of  the.  desert,  and  som<!  relaxation  frt>m  the  s(!verily  of  camp  duly.  Some 
relaxation,  and  relaxation  only — for  camp  guards,  horsn  guards,  and  scouIm, 
are  indispi'u.Mahlt!  from  the  tune  of  leavuig  the  frontiers  of  Missouri  until 
we  return  to  then;. 

Alter  wi!  left  the  /Vii-^.v,  we  had  the  gralificalion  to  he  joined  hy  th(j  fa- 
mous himier  and  trapper,  iVfr.  .h)seph  Walker,  whom  I  have  before  men- 
tioned, and  who  now  became  our  !.,Miide.  Me  had  left  ('alilornia  with  th.j' 
great  caravan;  and  perceiviii:^,  Iroiii  tla;  signs  along  the  trail,  that  there 
was  a  party  ol' whiles  ahead,  which  he  jiidg^'d  to  be  uune,  he  deiuched  him 
self  from  the  (caravan,  with  eight  umiii,  (Americans,)  and  ran  tin;  j/auiillet  of 
the  d(!scrt  robbers,  killing  two,  and  getting' some  of  lla;  horses  wounded.^ 
and  succeeded  in  oviMtaNim,'  us.  Nolliiiig  but  his  great  kiiovvle.di^M-  of  the 
eountry.  great  courage  and  pr«'scnc(!  of  miiKJ,  and  good  lilh^s,  could  have 
iirought  him  saft;  from  such  a  perilous  enterprise. 

Mof/  l;J. — VVc  remained  one  day  at  Ifiis  noted  [»lac(!  of  rest  and  refresh- 
ment; and,  resuming  our  progress  in  a  northeastwardly  direction,  wc;  de- 
scended into  a  bioad  valley,  the  water  of  which  is  tributary  to  S(!vier  lake. 
The  next  day  we  came  in  si  dit  cd'  the  Wah-satch  range  of  momitains  on 
the  right,  white  with  snow,  and  here  forming  tiie  southeast  p.art of  the  Grfuit 
Hasin.  Sevitu'  lake,  upon  the  waters  of  which  we  now  were,  b(!longed  to 
the  system  of  lakes  in  the  easI'Mii  part  of  the  Hasiii — of  which,  the  (Jrcat 
Salt  lake,  and  its  southcnn  limb,  the  Utah  lake,  were  the  principal — to- 
wards llie  region  of  which  wc  wore  now  approaching.  VVy  travelled  for 
several  days  in  this  direction,  within  the  rim  of  the  Oreat  Basin,  crossing 
httle  streams  which  bore  to  (lie  leli  for  Sevier  lake  ;  and  plainly  seeirig,  by 
ihe  changed  aspect  of  the  counti  _,'.  that  we  were  entiiely  clear  of  the 
desert,  aiid  approachiui^  the  regions  which  appertained  to  the  system  of  the 
Uocky  mountains.  We  met,  in  this  traverse, a  few  mounted  Utah  Indians, 
111  advance;  oJ'  their  main  body,  \vatcbini,'  the  approach  of  the  ^reat  caravan. 

May  i(). — \N'e  reached  a  small  salt  lake,  about  seveti  miles  long  and  one 
broad,  at  the  tiortlHU'ii  extremity  of  which  wecncam|>ed  for  the  ni^^dit.  This 
little  lake,  which  well  merits  its  characteristic  name,  lies  immediately  at 
the  base  of  the  Wah-satch  lani^e,  and  nearly  op[)Osiie  a  gi[)  in  that  cliain 
(d'  mountains  through  which  tini  Sjjanisli  trail  passes;  and  which,  again 
railing  upon  the  waters  of  the  Coii^rado,  and  crossing  that  river,  proceeds 
(jver  a  mountainous  coutitry  to  Santa  Fe. 

May  17. — After  -^1^0  nnles  of  travelling  en  a  trail,  wliich  served  for  a 
road,  we  again  found  ourselves  under  the  necessity  of  exploring  a  track 
through  the  wilderness.  The  Spanish  trail  liad  borne  off  to  the  southeast, 
crossing  the  Wah-satch  range.  Our  course  led  to  the  northeast,  along  the 
foot  of  that  range,  and  leaving  it  on  the  right.  The  mountain  present- 
ed itself  to  us  under  (he  form  of  several  ridges,  rising  one  above  the  other, 
rocky,  and  wooded  with  pine  and  cedar;  the  last  ridge  covered  with  snow. 
Sevier  river,  flowing  northwardly  to  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  coll-cts  its 
principal  waters  from  this  sect  ion  o''  the  Wah-satch  chain.  \V'e  had  now 
entered  a  region  of  great  pastoral  {;romise,  abounding  with  fine  streams, 
the  rich  bunch  grass,  soil  tiiat  would  produce  wheat,  and  indigenous  flax 
;;rowmg  as  if  it  had  been  sown.  Consistent  with  the  general  character  ui 
its  bordering  mountains,  this  feriiliiy  of  soil  and  vegetation  does  not  extend 


,.  I' 


25(i 


CAPT.  FUEMONTiS  NAKKATIVK. 


1844. 


far  into  \ho  (Ireat  li.usin.  Mr.  Joseph  Walker,  our  guide,  and  who  has 
more  knowledge  of  these  parts  than  any  tnatj  1  know,  informed  me  that  all 
the  country  to  the  left  was  nnknown  to  him,  an<l  that  oven  the  JJiij^gcr 
trihos,  which  l'ro(|uc!ited  l^ake  Sevier,  oonld  toll  him  nothintj  ahont  it. 

Mfii/  20. — We  mot  a  hand  of  Utah  Indians,  headed  hy  a  well-known 
chief,  who  had  ohtained  the  American  or  lOnglish  name  of  Walker,  hy 
which  he  is  (jnoted  and  well  known.  I'lu-y  were  all  nionnled, armed  with 
rifles,  and  nse  their  rilles  well.  The  chief  had  a  fnsee,  which  he  had  car- 
ried slun^,  in  addition  to  his  ritle.  They  wen;  jonrneying  slowly  towards 
the  Spanish  trail,  to  li^vy  their  nsnal  Irihuie  npon  the  great  Californian  cara- 
van. They  were  rohhers  of  a  higher  order  than  those  of  the  desert.  Thoy 
condncicd  their  dejiredations  with  form,  and  nnder  the  color  of  trade  and 
toll  for  passing  thronirh  their  country.  Instead  of  attacking  and  killing,  they 
affect  to  purchase — taking  the  horses  they  like,  and  giving  something  nomi- 
nal in  rc^lnrn.  The  chief  was  quite  civil  tome.  He  was  personally  ac- 
(juainted  with  his  namesake,  our  guide,  who  made  my  name  known  to  him. 
He  knew  of  my  expedition  of  1S42;  and,  as  tokons  of  friendship,  and 
proof  that  we  had  met,  proposed  an  interchange  of  prCvSents.  We  had  no 
great  store  to  choose  out  of;  so  he  gave  me  a  Mexican  blanket,  and  I  gave 
liim  a  very  fine  one  which  I  had  obtained  at  Vancouver. 

Mat/  23. — We  reached  Sevier  river — the  main  tributary  of  the  lake  of 
the  same  name — which,  deflecting  from  its  northern  course,  here  breaks 
from  the  mountains  to  enter  the  lake.  It  was  really  a  fine  river,  I'rom  eight 
to  twelve  feet  deep;  and,  after  searching  in  vain  for  a  fbrdable  place, Ave 
made  little  boats  (or,  rather,  rafts)  out  of  bulrushes,  and  ferried  across. 
These  rafts  arc  readily  made,  and  give  a  good  conveyance  across  a  river. 
The  rushes  are  bound  in  bundles,  and  lied  bard  ;  the  ftundles  are  tied  down 
iiponi)oles,as  close  as  they  can  be  pressed,  and  fashioned  like  a  boat,  in  being 
broader  in  the  middle  and  pointed  at  tlie  ends.  The  rushes,  being  tubular 
and  jointed,  are  light  and  stroui;.  The  raft  swims  well,  and  is  shoved  along 
by  poles,  or  paddled,  or  pushed  and  pulled  by  swimmers,  or  drawn  by  ropes. 
On  this  occasion,  we  used  ropes — one  at  each  end — and  rapidly  drew  our 
little  tloai  backwards  and  forwards,  from  shore  to  shore.  The  horses  swam. 
At  our  place  of  crossing,  which  was  the  mosi  northern  point  of  its  bend,  the 
latitude  was  .'39"  22'  1J»".  The  banks  sustained  the  character  for  fertility 
and  vegetation  which  we  had  seen  for  some  days.  The  name  of  this  river 
and  lake  was  an  indication  of  our  approach  to  regions  of  which  our  people 
had  been  the  explorers.  It  was  probably  named  after  some  American  trap- 
per or  lunuer,  and  was  the  first  American  name  wc  had  met  with  shice 
leaving  llie  Columbia  river.  From  the  Dulkfi  to  the  point  where  we  turn- 
ed across  the  Sierra  Nevada,  near  1,000  miles,  we  heard  Indian  names, 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  distance  none;  from  Nueva  Helvetia  (Sacra- 
mento) to  /^/s  Vegas  lie  Santa  Clara,  about  1,000  more,  all  were  Spanish; 
from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific,  French  and  Am.erican  or  English  were 
intermixed  :  and  this  prevalence  of  names  indicates  the  national  character 
oi  the  first  explorers. 

We  had  here  the  misfortune  to  lose  one  of  our  people,  Fran9ois  Badeau, 
who  had  been  with  me  in  both  expeditions;  during  which  he  had  always 
been  one  of  my  most  faithful  and  eflicient  men.  He  was  killed  in  drawing 
towards  him  a  gun  by  the  muzzle;  the  hammer  being  caught,  discharged 
the  gun,  driving  the  ball  through  his  head.  We  hurried  him  on  the  banks 
oi  the  river. 


(1844. 

who  has 
le  that  all 
5  JJiifger 
lit  it. 

ill-known 
alker,  by 
nuul  will\ 
I  had  car- 
f  towards 
niancara- 
irt.  Thoy 
trade  and 
lling,  they 
ling  norni- 
onally  ac- 
wntohiin. 
dship,  and 
^Vc  had  no 
and  I  gave 

he  lake  of 
lere  breaks 
,  irom  eight 
e  place,  we 
ried  across, 
ross  a  river, 
c  tied  down 
)at,  in  being 
ing  tnbular 
[loved  along 
nby  ropes. 
r  drew  our 
rsftsswam. 
ts  bend,  the 
for  fertility 
if  this  river 
our  people 
erican  trap- 
with  since 
re  we  turn- 
ian  names, 
tia  (Sacra- 
Spanish; 
Inglish  were 
al  character 

oisBadeau, 

Ihad  always 

in  drawing 

discharged 

the  banks 


1844. 


CATT.  FREMONT'S  NAKHATIVK. 


257 


Crossing  tlic  noxt  day  a  slight  ridi/o  along  the  river,  we  entered  a  hand- 
some niouiifaiii  valley  cdverctd  with  line  u;rass,  and  directed  our  course  to- 
wards ;i  high  snowy  peak,  at  the  loot  ol  which  lay  the  Utah  lake.  On 
our  right  was  a  bed  of  high  tnountains,  tlirir  sminnits  covered  with  snow, 
constituting  the  dividing  rid^o  between  the  liasin  waters  and  those  of  the 
Colorado.  At  noon  we  fell  in  with  a  ))arty  ot  Utah  Indians  cornuig  out 
of  the  mountain,  and  in  the  afternoon  «'ncaini)t'd  on  a  tributary  to  the  lake, 
which  is  s('paratc(l  I'rotn  the  waters  of  the  Seviur  by  very  slight  dividing 
grounds. 

Early  the  next  day  we  came  in  sight  of  the  lake;  and,  as  we  descended 
to  the  broad  bottoms  of  the  Spanish  fork,  three  horsemen  were  seen  gallop- 
ing towards  us,  who  proved  to  be  Utah  Indians — scouts  from  a  village, 
Avliich  was  encani|t<>il  near  the  mouth  of  the  river.     They  were  aimed 


W( 


With  nlles,  and  their  horses  were  m  good  condition,  vve  encamped  near 
them,  on  the  Spanish  fork,  which  is  one  of  the  principal  tributaries  to  the 
lake.  Finding  the  Indians  troubk-some,  and  desirous  to  remain  here  a  day, 
we  removed  the  next  morning  fariher  down  the  lake,  and  encamped  on  a 
lertilc  bottom  near  the  foot  of  the  same  mountainous  ridge  which  borders 
the  (Ireal  Salt  lake,  and  along  which  we  had  journeyed  the  previous  Sep- 
tember. Here  the  principal  plants  in  bloom  were  two,  which  were  re- 
markable as  aH'ording  to  the  Snake  Indians — the  one  an  abundant  supply 
of  food,  and  the  other  the  most  useful  among  the  applications  which  they 
use  for  wounds.  These  were  the  kooyah  plant,  growing  in  fields  of  ex- 
traordinary luxuriance,  and  convollaria  stelhtta,  which,  from  the  expe- 
rience of  ^l^.  Walker,  is  the  best  remedial  plant  known  among  those  In- 
dians. A  few  miles  below  us  was  another  village  of  Itidians,  from  which 
we  obtained  some  fish — among  them  a  few  salmon  trout,  v/iiich  were  very 
much  inferior  in  size  to  those  along  the  Californian  mountains.  The  sea- 
son for  taking  them  bad  not  yet  arrived  ;  but  the  Indians  were  daily  ex- 
pecting them  to  come  up  out  of  the  lake. 

We  had  now  accomplished  an  object  we  jiad  in  view  when  leaving  the 
Dalles  of  the  Columbia  in  November  last  :  we  had  reached  the  Utah  lake; 
but  by  a  route  very  different  from  what  we  had  intended,  and  without  suf- 
ficient time  remaining  to  make  tlie  examinations  which  were  desired.  It 
is  a  lake  of  note  in  this  country,  under  the  dominion  of  the  Utahs,  who 
resort  to  it  for  fish.  Its  greatest  breadth  is  about  15  miles,  stretching  far 
to  the  north,  narrowing  a.s  it  goes,  and  connecting  with  the  Great  Salt  lake. 
This  is  the  report,  and  which  I  believe  to  be  correct ;  but  it  is  fresh  water, 
while  the  other  is  not  only  salt,  but  a  saturated  solution  of  salt ;  and  here 
is  a  problem  which  requires  to  be  solved.  It  is  almost  entirely  surrounded 
by  mountaitis,  walled  on  the  north  and  east  by  a  liigh  and  snowy  range, 
which  supplies  to  it  a  fan  of  tributary  streams.  Among  these,  the  principal 
river  is  the  Timpan-ogo — signifying  Rock  river — a  name  which  the  rocky 
grandeur  of  its  scenery,  remarkable  even  in  this  country  of  rugged  moun- 
tains, has  obtained  for  it  from  the  Indians,  In  the  Utah  language,  og-wdh- 
be,  the  term  for  river,  when  coupled  with  other  words  in  common  conver- 
sation, is  usually  abbreviated  to  ogo  ;  Ibnpdn  signifying  rock.  It  is  probable 
that  this  river  furnished  the  name  which  on  the  older  maps  has  been  gene- 
rally applied  to  the  Great  Salt  lake ;  but  for  this  I  have  preferred  a  name 
which  will  be  regarded  as  highly  characteristic,  restricting  to  the  river  the 
descriptive  term  Timpan-ogo,  and  leaving  for  the  lake  into  which  it  flows 
17 


'.<i^: 


25S 


<;apt.  I'unMo.NTfi  narrative. 


[Ifi44. 


rlic  name  of  tlio  people  who  reside  on  iis  shores,  and  by  which  it  is  known 
thr(iUghout  Iho  country. 

The  vohimeof  water  ud'orded  hy  the  Tiinpan-of^'o  is  prohahly  eqtial  to 
thnl  of  the  Sevier  river;  and,  at  the  linio  of  our  visit,  there  was  only  one 
place  in  the  lake  valley  at  which  the  Spanish  fork  was  fordahle.  In  the 
cove  of  int)unlain.s  along  its  easierii  shore,  the  lake  is  bordisred  by  a  plain, 
where  tl)e  soil  is  a:enerally  i<o(ul,  and  in  m'reater  part  fertile ;  watered  by  a 
delta  of  prettily  tnnhered  streams.  Tliis  wonid  he  an  (.'xeelii'iit  locality 
for  stock  farms  ;  it  is  yen'Midly  covered  with  i^'ood  bunch  grass,  ai;d  would 
abundantly  produce  the  ordinary  grains. 

In  arriving  at  the  Ttah  lake,  w(!  had  completed  an  in)inense  circuit  of 
twelve  degrees  diamcler  north  and  south,  and  t(;n  degrees  east  and  west; 
and  found  ourselves,  in  May,  Ib-ll,  on  the  ."^ame  sheet  of  water  which  wo 
had  left  in  September,  18  113.  The  Utali  is  the  southern  limb  of  the  Great 
Salt  lake ;  and  thus  we  had  seen  that  n-nrirkable  sheet  of  water  both  at  its 
northern  and  southern  exirenjity.  and  were  able  to  fix  its  ]iosilion  at  these 
two  points.  The  circuit  which  we  had  made,  and  which  had  co^t  us  eight 
months  of  time,  and  ^.500  miles  of  travelling,  had  given  us  a  view  of 
Oregon  and  of  North  (!alif(H'nia  from  the  Rocky  niotn)tains  to  the  Pacific 
ocean,  and  of  the  two  principal  streams  which  form  bays  or  harbors  on  the 
coast  of  that  sea.  Having  completed  this  circuit,  and  lieitig  now  about  to 
turn  the  l)ack  upon  the  Pacific  slope  of  our  continent,  ainl  to  recross  the 
Rocky  moiuitains,  it  is  natural  to  look  back  upon  our  footstej)s,  and  take 
some  brief  view  of  the  leadlim'  features  tud  general  structure  of  the  coun- 
try we  had  traversed.  'J'hese  are  peculiar  and  striking,  and  diller  essentially 
from  the  Atlantic  side  of  our  country.  The  monntaiiisall  are  hig!ier,moro 
numerous,  and  more  distinctly  defined  in  their  ranges  and  directions;  and, 
what  is  so  contrary  to  the  nuiiral  order  of  such  Jormations,  one  of  these 
ranges,  which  is  near  the  coast,  (liie  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Coast  Range,) 
presents  higher  elevations  and  peaks  than  any  which  are  to  be  found  in  the 
Rocky  mountains  themselves.  lii  our  eight  months'  circuit,  we  were  never 
out  of  sight  of  snow;  and  the  Sierra  Nevada,  where  we  crossed  it,  was 
near  2,000  feet  higher  than  the  South  J'ass  in  the  RocJ<y  uMuntains.  In 
height,  these  mountains  greatly  exceed  those  of  the  Atlantic  side,  con- 
stantly presenting  peaks  which  enter  the  region  of  eternal  snow  ;  and  some 
of  them  volcanic,  and  in  a  fitMjut.-nt  slate  of  activity.  They  are  seen  at 
great  distances,  and  guide  the  traveller  in  his  courses. 

The  course  and  elevation  of  these  ranees  szive  direction  to  the  rivers  and 
character  to  the  coast.  No  great  river  does,  or  can,  take  its  rise  below  the 
Cascade  and  Sierra  Nevada  range ;  the  distance  to  the  sea  is  too  short  to 
admit  of  it.  The  rivers  of  the  San  Francisco  bay,  which  ;ire  the  largest 
after  the  Columbia,  are  local  to  that  bay,  and  lateral  to  the  coast,  having 
their  sources  about  on  a  line  with  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  and  runnijig 
each  in  a  valley  of  its  own,  between  Coast  range  and  the  Cascade  and  Sierra 
Nevada  range.  The  Columbia  is  the  only  river  which  traverses  the  whole 
breadth  of  the  country,  breaking  through  all  the  ranges,  and  entering  the 
sea.  Drawing  its  waters  from  a  section  of  ten  degrees  of  lalilude  in  the 
Rocky  mountains,  which  are  collected  info  one  stream  by  three  main  forks 
(Lewis's,  Clark's,  and  the  North  fork)  near  the  centre  of  (he  Oregon  valley, 
this  great  river  thence  proceeds  by  c  single  cliannel  to  the  sea,  while  its 
three  forks  lead  each  to  y.  pass  in  the  mountains,  which  open.s  the  way  into 


of 


[1844. 
IS  known 

equal  to 
only  one 

!.  Ill  tlio 
ly  a  plain, 
l'1(mI  by  a 
[ii  locality 
u;d  would 


circuit  of 
ami  west; 
•  which  wc 
■  the  Great 

both  at  its 
on  at  these 
ist  us  eight 

a  view  ot" 
the  Pacific 
bors  on  the 
iw  about  to 
iccruss  the 
.s,  and  take 
)f  the  coun- 
f  essentially 
li^her,ruoro 

lions;  and, 
ne  of  these 

ast  Uan^'O,) 
lioiiuu  in  the 

were  never 
^cd  it,  was 
hntains.     In 
side,  con- 

;  and  some 

arc  seen  at 


Olivers  and 
so  below  the 
loo  short  to 
tlio  largest 
jast,  havhig 
ind  running 
leiiiid  Sierra 
,'s  the  whole 
niiering  the 
[indc  in  the 
le  main  forks 
legoii  valley, 
\x^  while  its 
Ihc  way  into 


1844.') 


th« 


CAPT    FRFMONT'8  NARRATIVE. 


259 


r'  III 


interior  of  the  coniiuent.     This  fact  in  relation  to  the  rivers  of  this 
region 


)s  an  immense  value  to  the  Columbia.     Its  moiKh  is  tlie  only 


inlet  and  outlet  to  md  from  the  .sea  :  its  tliree  forks  lead  to  tl 


le  passes  ni 


the  mountains;  it  is  tln'reCori!  the  only  line  of  commiinieatioii  bcitweeii  the 


Pacific  and  th 


>f  North  Ai 


d  ail 


>( 


itnerica ; 

cojiimerce,  of  nationiil  or  .socinl  intercourse,  must  be  coiulucltjd  upon  it. 
This  gives  it  a  value  bc-yond  esti.niUion,  and  would  involve  irreparable 
injury  if  lost.  In  this  unity  and  conoentraliou  of  its  wiHers,  the  Pacific 
side  of  our  rontineiit  diiTers  entirely  from  the  Atlantic  siile,  where  liio 
waters  of  the  Allcgniiy  mountains  are  disptirsed  into  many  rivers,  having 
thcT  different  onfranres  into  the  sea,  and  opening  many  lines  of  communi- 
cr(ion  with  the  interior. 

The  Pacific  coast  is  equally  difl'erent  froHi  that  of  the  Atlantic.  The 
coast  of  the  Atlantic  is  low  and  open,  indented  with  numerotis  bays, 
sounds,  and  river  estunries.  accessible  every  where,  nnd  o])ening  by  many 
channels  into  the  iK.'art  o['  the  country.  The  I'acific  coast,  on  the  con- 
trary, is  high  and  coni[>act,  with  few  bays,  and  biU  one  that  opens  into 
the  lieart  of  the  country.  The  immediate  coast  is  what  the  seamen  call 
iron  bound.  A  little  within,  it  is  skirted  by  two  successive  ranges  of  moun- 
tains, standing  as  ramparts  between  tiie  sea  and  llie  interior  country;  and 
to  get  through  which,  there  is  but  one  gate,  and  that  narrow  and  easily  de- 
fended. This  strucmre  of  the  coast,  backed  by  these  two  ranges  of  moun- 
tains, with  its  concentration  and  unity  of  waters,  gives  to  the  country  an 
immense  military  streniMli,  and  will  probably  render  Oregon  the  most  im- 
pregnable cotmiry  in  the  world. 

Differing  so  miicli  tVom  the  Atlantic  side  of  our  continent,  in  coast, 
mountains,  and  rivers,  the  Pacific  side  differs  from  it  in  another  most  rare 
and  singular  t'ealnre — that  of  the  Great  interior  liasiii,  of  which  I  have  so 
often  spoken,  and  \\\v.  whole  form  and  character  of  which  I  was  so  anxious 
to  ascertain.  Its  existence  is  vouched  for  by  such  of  the  American  traders 
and  hunters  as  have  some  knowledge  of  that  reu;ion  ;  the  structure  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada  raiiL'e  of  mountains  requires  it  to  he  there;  and  my  own 
observations  confirm  it.  Mr.  Joseph  Walker,  who  is  so  well  acquainted  in 
those  parts,  informed  me  that,  from  the  Great  Salt  lake  west,  there  was  a 
succession  of  lakes  and  rivers  which  have  no  outlet  to  the  sea,  nor  any 
connexion  with  the  Columbia,  or  with  the  Colorado  of  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia. He  described  some  of  these  lakes  as  being  large,  with  numerous 
streams,  and  even  considerable  rivers,  falling  into  them.  In  fact,  all  concur 
in  the  general  report  of  these  interior  rivers  and  lakes;  and,  for  waMt  of 
understanding  the  force  and  power  <y{  evaporation,  which  so  soon  estab- 
lishes an  equilibrimn  between  the  loss  and  supply  of  waters,  the  fable  of 
whirlpools  and  subterraui'ous  outlets  has  gained  belief,  as  the  only  imagi- 
nable way  of  carrying  ol]  the  waters  which  have  no  visible  discharge. 
The  structure  of  the  country  would  require  this  formation  of  interior  lakes; 
for  the  waters  which  would  collect  between  the  Rocky  mountains  and  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  not  beiiis;  able  to  cross  this  formidable  [);jrrier,.4^or  to  get  to 
the  Columbia  or  the  Colorado,  must  naturally  collect  into  reservoirs,  eacli 
of  which  would  have  its  little  system  of  streams  and  rivers  to  supply  it. 
This  would  be  the  natiua!  effect ;  and  what  I  saw  went  to  confirm  it.  The 
Groat  Salt  lake  is  a  (oriuation  of  this  kind,  and  quite  a  large  one;  and  having 
many  streams,  and  one  considerable  river,  four  or  five  hundred  miles  long, 
falling  into  it.  This  lake  and  river  I  saw  and  examined  myself;  and  also  saw 


i' 


sno 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATrvn. 


[1S44. 


the  VVali-salcli  and  Hear  River  mouiituiiis  which  enclose  the  waters  of  the 
Jake  uii  the  east, and  ooiKstititte,  iti  that  quarter,  the  rim  of  the  Great  Basin. 
Afterwards,  along  the  ensstcrn  hase  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  where  we  trav- 
elled  for  forty-two  days,  I  saw  the  line  of  lakes  and  rivers  which  lie  at  the 
foot  of  that  Sierra  ;  and  which  Sierra  is  the  western  rim  of  the  liasin.    In 
goin^'  down  l^ewis's  tbrk  and  the  main  ('ohnnbia.  I  crossed  only  inferior 
streams  coming  in  from  the  left,  such  as  could  draw  their  water  from  a 
short  distance  only;  aniJ   I  often  saw  the  niountains  at  their  heads,  white 
with  snow;  which,  all  accounts  said,  dividtd  the  WiUcrsof  the  desert  froin 
those  of  the  Colund)i;i,  and  which  could  he  no  oilier  than  the  range  of 
mountains  which  form  the  rim  ol  the  Hasin  on  its  northern  side.     And  ii> 
returning  from  California  along  the  Spanish  trail,  as  far  as  tlie  head  of  tlie 
Santa  Clara  I'ork  of  the  Hio  Virgen,  1  crossed  only  small  streams  making 
their  way  soutli  to  the  Colorado,  or  lost  in  sand — as  liie  Mo-hahve;  while 
to  the  left,  lofty  mountains,  their  sununits  white  with  snow,  were  often  visi- 
ble, and  which  must  have  turned  water  to  the  north  as  well  as  to  the  south, 
and  thu.s  constituted,  on  this  part,  the  southern  lim  of  the  liasiu.     At  the 
head  of  the  Santa  Clara  fork,  and  in  the  Vegas  dc  Santa  Clara,  we  crossed 
the  ridge  which  parted  the  two  systems  of  waters.     We  entered  the  Basui 
at  that  point,  and  have  travelled   in  it  ever  since,  having  its  southeastert. 
rim  (the  Wah-satch  mouniain)  on  tlie  right,  and  crossing  the  streams  which 
flow  down  into  it.     Tlie  existence  of  the  Hasin  is  therefore  an  estahlislied 
fact  hi  my  mind  ;  its  exieni  and  contents  are  yet  to  be  better  ascertained. 
It  camiot  be  less  than  four  or  tive  hundred  miles  each  way,  and  must  lie 
principally  in   the   Aha  California;  the  demarcation  latitude  of  42°  proba- 
bly cutting  a  segment  from  the  north  part  of  tiie  rim.     Of  its  interior,  but 
little  is  known.     It  is  called  a  desert,  and,  from  what  I  .saw  of  it,  sterility 
maybe  its  proinii. cut  characteristic ;  but  where  there  is  so  much  water, 
there  must  be  some  ousis.     The  great  river,  and  the  great  lake,  reported, 
may  not  be  equal   to  the  report;  but  where  there  is  so  much  snow,  there 
must  be  streams;  and  where  there  is  no  outlet,  there  must  be  lakes  to  hold 
the  accumulated  waters,  or  sands  to  swallow  them  up.     In  this  eastern 
part  of  the  Basin,  containing  Sevier,  Utah,  and  the  Great  Salt  lakes,  and 
the  rivers  and  creeks  falling  into  them,  we  know  there   is  good  soil  and 
good  grass,  adapted  to  civilized  settlements.     \{\  the  western  part,  on  Sal- 
mon Trout  river,  and  some  other  streams,  the  same  remark  may  be  made. 
The  contents  of  this  Great  Basin  are  yet  to  be  examined.     That  it  is 
peopled,  we  know  ;  but  miserably  and  sparsely.    From  all  that  I  heard  and 
saw,  I  should  say  that  humanity  here  appeared  in  its  lowest  form,  and  in 
its  most  elementary  state.    Dispersed  in  single  families  ;  without  fire  arms; 
eating  seeds  and  insects ;  digging  roots,  (and  hence  their  name) — such  is 
the  condition  of  the  greater  part.     Others  are  a  degree  higher,  and  live  in 
conmiimities  upon  some  lake  or  river  that  supplies  tlsh,  and  from  which 
they  repulse  the  miserable  Digger.  The  rabbit  is  the  largest  animal  known 
in  this  desert ;  its  flesh  affords  a  little  meat ;  and  their  bag-like  covering  is 
made  of  its  skins.     The  wild  sage  is  their  only  wood,  and  here  it  is  of  ex- 
traordinary size — sometimes  a  foot  in  diameter,  and  six  or  eight  feet  high. 
It  serves  for  fuel,  for  building  material,  for  shelter  to  the  rabbits,  and  for 
some  sort  of  covering  for  the  feet  and  legs  in  cold  weather.     Such  are  the 
accounts  of  tlie  inhabitants  and  productions  of  the  Great  Basin  ;  and  which, 
though  imperfect,  must  have  some  foundation, and  excite  our  desire  to  know 
the  whole. 


¥ 


[lvS44. 

5rs  of  the 
at  Husiit. 
wo  trav- 
lie  at  tilt) 
lasin.    Iti 
f  inferior 
jr  frojn  a 
lis,  white 
sert  froru 
range  ot" 
And  it. 
>ad  of  the 
,s  makina; 
ve ;  whiU) 
often  visi- 
the  south, 
1.     At  the 
;^c  crossed 
the  Basm 
Uheasterr. 
intis  which 
istabhshed 
scertained. 
d  must  he 
42°  proba- 
iterior,  but. 
it,  slerihty 
Ach  water, 
,  reported, 
low,  there 
<es  to  hold 
lis  eastern 
akes,  and 
soil  and 
rt,  on  Sal- 
be  made. 
That  it  is 
leard  and 
m,  and  in 
fire  arms; 
— such  IS 
and  live  in 
om  which 
iial  known 
overing  is 
it  is  of  ex- 
feet  high, 
ts,  and  for 
ich  are  the 
nd  which, 
re  to  know 


1844.]  CAPT.  rUKMONT'S  NARRATIVE.  '^m 

The  whole  idea  of  snrh  a  desert,  and  such  a  people,  is  a  novelty  in  our 
country,  and  e.vcitns  Asiufic,  not  Amerifrm  idfns.  Interior  basins,  with 
tlieir  own  systems  of  lakes  and  rivers,  and  often  steriie.are  coinnion  enough 
in  Asia;  people  still  in  the  <.'loniPntary  state  of  families,  living  in  deserts, 
with  no  other  occupation  than  the  mere  animal  s«arrh  for  food,  may  still 
be  seen  in  that  ancient  ([unrler  of  the  globe  ;  but  in  America  such  things 
are  new  and  strange,  unlciiowii  and  unsuspected,  and  discredited  when 
related.  iJut  1  llattcr  myself  that  what  is  discovers  I,  thoUL'h  not  enough 
to  satisfy  curiosity,  is  sutljeient  to  excite  it,  and  that  subsequent  explorations 
will  completj;  what  has  been  eonmienced. 

This  account  of  the  (Ireai  liasin,  it  will  be  remembered,  belongs  to  tho 
Aha  California,  and  has  no  application  to  Oregon,  whose  capabilities  may 
justify  a  separate  remark.  Referring  to  my  journal  for  particular  descrip- 
tions, and  for  sectional  bomidaries  between  good  and  bad  districts,  I  can 
only  say,  in  general  and  conii)arative  terms,  that,  in  that  branch  of  agri- 
culture which  implies  the  cultivation  o  grains  and  staple  crops,  it  would 
be  inferior  to  the  Atlantic  States, though  many  parts  are  superior  (or  wheat; 
while  in  the  rearing  of  llocks  and  herds  it  would  claim  a  high  place.  Its 
grazing  capabilities  are  great ;  and  even  in  the  indigenous  grass  now  there, 
an  element  of  individual  and  national  wealth  may  be  found.  In  fact,  the 
valuable  grasses  begin  within  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  the  Missouri 
frontier,  and  extend  to  the  Pacific  ocean.  East  of  the  Rocky  mountains, 
it  is  the  short  curly  grass,  on  which  the  bufialo  dflight  to  feed,  (whence  its 
name  of  butfalo,-)  and  which  is  still  good  when  dry  and  apparently  dead. 
West  of  those  mountains  it  is  a  larger  growth,  in  clusters,  and  hence  called 
bunch  grass,  and  which  has  a  second  or  fall  growth.  Plains  and  mountains 
both  exhibit  them;  and  I  have  seen  good  pasturage  at  an  elevation  of  ten 
thousand  feet.  In  thirs  spontaneous  [)roduct,  the  tradin:.'  or  travelling  cara- 
vans can  find  subsistenc'-  for  their  animals;  and  in  miliiary  operations  any 
number  of  cavalry  may  be  moved,  and  any  number  of  caiiie  may  be  driven; 
and  thus  men  and  horses  bo  supported  on  long  expeditions,  and  even  in 
winter  in  the  sheltered  sifnafions. 

Commercially,  the  value  ot'  the  Oregon  country  must  be  great,  washed 
as  it  is  by  the  north  Pacific  ocean — fronting  Asia — producing  many  of  the 
elements  of  commerce — mild  and  healthy  in  its  climate — and  becoming,  as 
it  naturally  will,  a  thorouLdilare  for  the  East  India  and  China  trade. 

Turning  our  taces  once  more  eastward,  on  the  morning  of  the  27th  we 
left  the  Utah  lake,  and  continued  for  two  days  to  ascend  the  Spanish  fork, 
which  is  dispersed  in  numerous  branches  among  very  rugged  mountains, 
which  afford  few  passes,  and  render  a  familiar  acquaintance  with  them 
necessary  to  the  traveller.  The  stream  can  scarcely  be  said  to  have  a  val- 
ley, the  mountains  risin£r  often  abruptly  from  the  water's  edge;  but  a  good 
trail  facilitated  our  travelling,  and  there  were  frequent  bottoms,  covered 
with  excellent  grass.  The  streams  are  prettily  and  variously  wooded;  and 
every  where  the  mountain  shows  grass  and  timber. 

At  our  encampment  on  the  evening  of  the  28lh,  near  the  head  of  one 
of  the  branches  we  had  ascended,  strata  of  bituminous  limestone  were 
displayed  in  an  escarpment  on  the  river  bluffs,  in  which  were  contained  a 
variety  of  fossil  shells  of  new  species. 

It  will  be  remembered,  that  in  crossing  this  ridge  about  120  miles  to  the 
northward  in  August  last,  strata  of  fossiliferous  rock  were  discovered,  which. 


2fi2 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NAKRATIVE. 


[1844. 


I 


liavu  t)u(>ii  rol<!rri(i  to  tli«;  oolitic  period  i  it  is  proliahU;  that  those  rocks  also 
btilonu  to  the  .san»«5  I'onnaiion. 

A  t'fw  miles  iVoin  tliis  <;iiciiniprnoiit  wo  rouchcl  thr  hoad  of  the  stream; 
aud  crossing,  hy  an  open  and  oasy  pass,  thu  (hvuUii^'  ridi,''5  which  soparutes 
tlje  waters  ot'  tho  (Ireat  IJasin  irotn  those  oC  the  (.'olorado,  wo  reached  the 
head  branclus  of  one  of  its  larger  irihntaries,  which,  from  thu  decided  color 
of  its  waters,  has  reeeived  the  name  of  VVhitts  river.  The  snows  of  the 
mountains  wero  now  l)ei,Mnnirii»  to  melt,  and  ail  the  little  rivulets  were 
rumiin^'  hy  in  rivers, and  rapidly  becominu;  dillienlt  lo  ford.  (Jontimung  a 
few  miles  up  a  branch  of  White  river,  we  cro.sscd  a  dividini,'  ridge  between 
its  waters  and  those  of  the  Uintdh.  The  approach  to  the  pass,  which  is 
the  best  known  lo  iMr.  Walker,  was  somewhat  dillienlt  for  packs,  and  im- 
practicable for  wagons — all  the  streams  being  shut  in  by  narrow  ravines, 
and  the  narrow  trail  along  the  steep  hill  sides  allowing  the  passage  of  oidy 
one  animal  at  a  time.  From  the  summit  we  had  a  rine  view  of  the  snowy 
Bear  River  range;  and  there  were  still  remaining  beds  of  snow  on  the  cold 
sides  of  the  hills  near  the  pass.  We  descended  by  a  narrow  ravine,  in 
•which  was  ra|)idly  gathered  a  little  branch  of  the  Uintah,  and  halted  to 
noon  about  1,500  feet  below  the  pass,atan  elevation,  by  the  boiling  point, 
of  6,900  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  nex;  day  we  descended  along  the  river,  and  about  noon  reached  a 
point  where  three  lorks  come  together.  Fording  one  of  these  with  some 
difficulty,  we  contiimed  up  the  middle  branch,  which,  from  the  color  of  its 
waters,  is  named  the  lied  river.  The  few  passes,  and  extremely  rugged 
nature  of  the  country,  give  to  it  great  strength,  and  secure  the  Utahs  from 
the  intrusion  of  their  enemies.  Crossing  in  the  afternoon  a  sornewliat 
broken  highland,  covered  in  places  with  fine  grasses,  and  with  cedar  on 
the  hill  sides,  we  encamped  at  evening  on  another  tributary  to  the  Uintah^ 
called  the  Duchesne  fork.  The  water  was  very  clear,  the  stream  not  being 
yet  swollen  by  the  melting  snows;  and  we  forded  it  without  any  difficulty. 
It  is  a  considerable  branch,  being  spread  out  by  islands,  the  largest  arm 
being  about  a  hundred  feet  wide ;  and  the  name  it  bears  is  probably  that 
of  some  old  French  trapper. 

The  next  day  we  continued  down  the  river,  which  we  were  twice  obliged 
to  cross;  and,  the  water  having  risen  during  the  night,  it  was  almost  every 
where  too  deep  to  bo  forded.  After  travelling  about  sixteen  miles,  we  en- 
camped again  on  the  left  bank. 

I  obtained  here  an  occultalion  of  «  Scorpii  at  the  dark  limb  of  the  moon, 
which  gives  for  the  longitude  of  the  place  112°  18'  30",  and  the  latitude 
40°  18'  53". 

June  1. — We  left  today  the  Duchesne  fork,  and,  after  traversing  a  broken 
country  for  about  sixteen  miles,  arrived  at  noon  at  another  considerable 
branch,  a  river  of  great  velocity,  to  which  the  trappers  have  improperly 
given  the  name  of  Lake  fork.  The  name  applied  to  it  by  the  Indians  sig- 
nifies great  swiftness,  and  is  the  same  which  they  use  to  express  the  speed 
of  a  race  horse.  It  is  spread  out  in  various  channels  over  several  hundred 
yards,  and  is  every  where  too  deep  and  swit\  to  be  forded.  At  this  season 
of  the  year,  there  is  an  uninterrupted  noise  from  the  large  rocks  which  are 
rolled  along  the  bed.  After  infinite  didiculty..  and  the  delay  of  a  day,  we 
succeeded  in  getting  the  stream  bridged,  and  got  over  wiUi  the  loss  of  one 
of  our  animals.  Continuhig  our  route  across  a  broken  country,  of  which 
the  higher  parts  were  rocky  and  timbered  with  cedar,  and  the  lower  parts 


IS44. 


CAPT    Fni:.\l().\T'M  NAIIRATIN  K. 


263 


[1814. 
;ks  also 

stream; 
parutos 
heel  the 
od  color 
s  of  the 
its  were 
lining  a 
jolwucn 
A^hicli  is 
and  ini- 
ravinos, 
1  of  only 
c  snowy 
the  cold 
A vine,  in 
Halted  to 
ig  point, 

L'ached  a 

ith  some 

lor  of  its 

y  rngged 

ahs  from 

amewhat 

cedar  on 

Uintah, 

ot  being 

ifficulty. 

gest  arm 

ably  that 

e  obliged 
ost  every 
s,we  en- 

le  moon, 
3  latitude 

a  broken 
siderable 
iproperly 
iians  sig- 
he  speed 
hundred 
lis  season 
vhich  are 
L  day,  we 
ss  of  one 
of  which 
wer  parts 


covcnnl  Willi  cjood  grass,  wo  rearhod,  on  the  .'iftornoon  of  thf^  3(1.  the 
Uintah  f(irt,.'i  tradin;^  post  h«'loiiying  to  Mr.  A.  Ht)nl»uloan,on  the  principal 
fork  of  the,  Uintah  rivur.  Wo  toinid  the  sirraiii  nijariy  as  rapid  and  tlitR- 
cult  as  the;  Jiuk(.'  fork,  divided  into  s  jveral  channels,  which  wore  too  broad 
to  be  hriil^od.  With  the  aid  ot  giiich-s  from  the  fort,  wo  sncc  ecdod,  with 
very  great  diHicnliy,  in  lording  it ;  and  cncaii .pcd  near  the  fort,  which  is 
siluaiod  u  short  di:itanco  above  the  jun(;ii()ii  ot  two  hraiichcs  which  make 
the  river. 

Hy  an  imincrsion  of  the  1st  satollito,(airriMMii2:  W(!ll  with  tho  result  of  the 
occnltation  ohsoivtid  at  tho  Duchesne  fork,)  llu;  loimitnde  of  the  post  is  109° 
50'  42",  the  latitude  -lO'  27'  ^r^". 

It  has  a  moiloy  i^arrison  of  Canadian  and  S[)aiiish  cni^a^fs  and  hunters, 
with  tho  usual  mi.iiher  of  Indian  women.  Wo  ohtanuMl  a  small  supply  of 
sugar  and  coili-c!,  with  some  dried  meat  and  a  cow,  which  was  a  very  ac- 
ceplahlo  cluingo  from  tho  pinoli  on  which  we  had  subsisted  for  some  weeks 
past.  I  strengthened  my  parly  at  this  j)laco  by  iIkj  addition  of  Auguste 
Archamb«;aii,  an  excellent  voyagour  and  hunter,  belonging  to  the  class  of 
Carson  and  (lodoy. 

On  tho  morning  of  tho  flth  we  lelt  the  fort"  and  the  Uintah  river,  and 
continued  our  road  over  a  broken  country,  which  allbrded,  however,  a  rich 
addition  to  our  botanical  collection;  and,  after  a  march  of  25  miles,  were 
again  cheeked  by  another  stream,  called  Ashley's  fork,  where  we  were  de- 
tained until  noon  of  the  next  day. 

An  imincrsion  of  the  2d  satellite  gave  for  this  place  a  longitude  of  109^ 
27'  07",  the  latitude  by  observation  being  40°  2S'  07". 

In  tho  afternoon  of  the  next  day  wo  succeeded  in  finding  a  ford  ;  and, 
after  travelling  (ideeii  miles,  encamped  high  upon  the  mountainside,  where 
we  found  excellent  and  ahundant  grass,  which  wo  had  not  hitherto  seen. 
A  new  species  of  elymns,  which  had  a  purgative  and  weakening  effect 
upon  the  animals,  had  occurred  abundantly  since  leaving  the  fort.  From 
this  point,  by  observation  7, '500  feet,  ahove  the  sea,  we  had  a  view  of  the 
Colorado  below,  sliut  up  amongst  rugged  mountains,  and  wliich  is  the  re- 
cipient of  all  the  streams  we  had  been  crossing  since  we  passed  the  rim  of 
the  Groat  Basin  at  the  head  of  the  Spanish  fork. 

On  the  7th  wo  had  a  i)leasant  but  long  day's  journey,  through  beautiful 
little  valleys  and  a  high  mountain  country,  arriving  about  evening  at  the 
verge  of  a  steep  and  rocky  ravine,  by  which  we  descended  to  '^Brown's 
hole.''  This  is  a  place  well  known  to  trappers  in  the  country,  where  the 
canons  through  which  the  Colorado  runs  expand  into  a  narrow  but  pretty 
valley,  about  sixteen  miles  in  length.  The  river  was  several  hundred 
yards  in  breadth,  swollen  to  tho  top  of  its  hanks,  near  to  which  it  was  in 
many  place-!  filteen  to  twenty  feet  deep.  We  repaired  a  skin  boat  which 
had  heel)  purchased  at  the  fort,  and,  after  a  delay  of  a  day,  reached  the  op- 
posite banks  with  much  less  delay  than  had  been  encountered  on  the  Uin- 
tah waters.  According  to  information,  the  lower  end  of  the  valley  is  the 
most  eastern  part  of  the  Colorado ;  and  the  latitude  of  our  encampment, 
which  was  opposite  to  the  remains  of  an  old  fort  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
river,  was  40"  46'  27",  and,  by  observation,  the  elevation  above  the  sea 


•  This  fort  was  attacked  and  taken  by  a  band  of  the  Utah  Indians  since  we  passed  it ;  and  the 
men  of  tho  j^arrison  killed,  the  women  carried  ofl".  Mr.  Roubideau,  a  trader  of  St.  Louis,  wa«  ab- 
sent, and  f<o  escaped  the  fate  of  the  rest. 


264 


(;apt.  FHKMONT'H  nahkativk 


[IH44, 


5,1 /lO  loct.  Tlie  bonrini^  to  tlio  (Mitruiicu  uf'llio  ciniDti  below  was  .sontli  20^ 
*mst.  Iliro  ilif}  river  eiucrs  lictwiM-n  lofty  prccipijics  of  red  rock,  niiJ  tlio 
loiiiitiy  holow  iis  said  to  usNimiD  ;i  vi^ry  rnm?<!(l  charnctt^r;  tlitr  river  mid 
its  allliunits  passiiij?  ihrougli  (Ninons  which  I'orhid  all  access  to  llie  water. 
This  slutllered  little  valley  was  loriiierly  a  favorite  wiiileriiii;  yioiiiKJ  for 
the  trappers,  as  it  afibrded  iheiii  siilIiciiMii  pasturage  for  their  atiiiiials,  and 
the  siirrouiidiiig  inomitaiiis  are  well  sI(m  Iced  witii  LMiuf*. 

We  surprised  a  lloek  of  ni<»iiiit;iiii  sheep  as  we  dcsciiidc.'d  to  lli<.'  river, 
and  our  luiiiters  killed  :>evernl.  'I'lu.'  hoitonis  of  a  8itiall  stream  called  ihu 
Veriiiillion  creek,  which  enters  the  left  hank  of  the  river  a  short  distance 
below  our  »;ncanipn»ent,  were  covered  abundantly  with  F.  rcnnicnlaris, 
and  other  chenopodiaceous  shrubs.  From  tlus  lower  end  of  Urown's  hole 
we  issued  by  a  remarkably  dry  c\\\  )n,  iiliy  or  sixty  yards  wide,  and  rising, 
as  we  advanced,  to  the  hci^hi  of  six  or  eight  hundred  feet.  Issuing  I'roni 
this,  and  crossing  a  small  green  valley,  we  entered  another  rent  of  the  same 
nature,  still  narrower  than  the  other,  the  rocks  on  either  side  rising  in  nearly 
vertical  j)recipices  perhaps  Ij/iOU  feci  iii  height.  These  places  an*  men- 
tioned, to  give  some  idea  of  the  country  lower  down  on  the  Colorado,  to 
which  the  trappers  usu  illy  a|)ply  the  name  of  a  canon  country.  The  canon 
opened  upon  a  pond  of  water,  wIkmc  w<'  hall»d  to  noon.  S(!veral  lloeksof 
mountam  sheep  were  here  among  the  rocks,  which  rung  with  volleys  of 
small  arms.  In  the  afternoon  we  entered  upon  an  ugly,  barren,  and  broken 
coimtry,  corresponding  well  with  that  we  had  traversed  a  lew  degrees 
north,  iwx  the  same  side  of  the  Colorado.  The  Vermillion  creek  alforded 
us  brackish  water  and  indiliereiit  grass  for  the  night. 

A  few  scattered  cedar  trees  were  the  only  improvement  oi  the  country 
on  the  following  day;  and  at  a  little  spring  of  bad  water,  where  we  halted 
to  noon,  we  had  not  even  the  shelter  of  tb'se  from  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun. 
At  night  we  encamped  in  a  fine  grove  «  Itonwood  trees,  on  the  baidcs  of 
the  Elk  Head  river,  the  i)rincipul  fork  ui  the  Yatnpah  river,  commonly 
called  by  the  trappers  the  Bear  river.  Wo  made  here  a  very  strong  cordl 
and  fort,  and  formed  the  camp  into  vigilant  guards.  Tlie  country  we  were 
now  entering  is  constantly  infested  by  war  parties  of  the  Sioux  and  other 
Indians,  and  is  considered  among  the  most  dangerous  war  grounds  in  the 
Rocky  mountains;  parties  of  whites  having  been  repeatedly  defeated  on 
this  river. 

On  the  nth  we  continued  up  the  river,  which  is  a  considerable  stream, 
fifty  to  a  hundred  yards  hi  width,  handsomely  and  continuously  wooded 
with  groves  of  the  narrow-leaved  cottonwood,  {populus  ani^usti/olia ;) 
with  these  were  thickets  of  willow  and  grain  du  bceuf.  The  characteristic 
plant  along  the  river  is  F.  ven/iicn/aris,  which  ti^anerally  covers  the  bot- 
toms ;  mingled  with  this,  are  saline  shrubs  and  artemisia.  The  new  variety 
of  grass  which  we  had  seen  on  leaving  the  Uintah  fort  had  now  disap- 
peared. The  country  on  either  side  was  sandy  and  poor,  scaniily  wooded 
with  cedars,  but  the  river  bottoms  aflbrded  good  pasture.  Three  ante- 
lopes were  killed  in  the  afternoon,  and  wo  encamped  a  little  below  a  branch 
of  the  river,  called  St.  Vrain's  fork.  A  few  miles  above  was  the  fort  at 
which  Frapp's  party  had  been  defeated  two  years  since  ;  and  we  passed 
during  the  day  a  place  where  Carson  had  been  fired  upon  so  close  that  one 
of  the  men  had  five  bullets  through  his  body.  Leaving  this  river  the  next 
morning,  we  took  our  way  across  the  hills,  where  every  hollow  had  a 
spring  of  running  water,  with  good  grass. 


[1844. 

til  JO^ 
nd  ll») 
M'  aiul 
water, 
lul  lor 
Is,  and 

8  rivor, 
ted  the 
listaiico 
uitiris, 
i's  liolo 
I  rising, 
ig  iVom 
\o  suiui; 
\  nearly 
If  luen- 
irado,  10 
10  canon 
llocksof 
)llcys  of 
I  broken 
decrees 
uiroided 

I  country 
re  halted 
'  the  sun. 
hunks  of 
lunionly 
iiig  conU 
we  were 
lid  other 
Is  in  the 
tated  ou 

stream, 
wooded 
\tifoiia;) 
liicteristic 
the   bot- 
Jv  variety 
[w  disap- 
wooded 
i-ec  ante- 
la  branch 
le  fort  at 
le  passed 
that  one 
the  next 
kv  had  a 


184-t.] 


CAPT.  KKKMONT'S  NAUKATIVE. 


265 


Yfstcrdfiy  ftnd  to-day  wi>  liavo  had  before  our  tyM  iho  \\\^\\  nionnlniiis 
which  (hvide  tilt;  I'uoitic  from  the  .Missis.sip[>i  waters;  and  (tnterni^  hcru 
among  the  lower  spins,  or  foot  hilts  of  the  range,  ihe  face  of  thi;  coiuitry 
began  to  improve  with  a  niMi^ical  rapidity.  Nut  only  tln^  river  bottoms, 
but  the  hills,  were  covered  wnh  irrajs  ;  and  among  the  n^nal  varied  lloiu 
of  the  luonntaiti  region,  ibesc  were  occisioimtly  htne  with  the  >howy  bloom 
of  a  liipimis.  In  the  course  o(  the  morning  wt;  had  tlie  first  L'lad  view  of 
bnlfalo,  and  welcomed  the  appeariince  of  two  old  bulls  with  ;is  much  joy 
as  if  they  had  been  mt^ssengers  from  home  ;  and  when  we  dcscendrd  to 
noon  on  St.  Vraiu's  fork,  an  allliitiil  of  flreeu  riv<'r,  the  hunters  broughl  lu 
moimtain  sheep  ami  the  uicai  of  two  fat  bolls.  Fresh  entrails  in  the  river 
^howed  us  that  there  were  Indians  abovo  :  and,  at  evening',  judging  it  un- 
safe to  encamp  in  th(!  bottoms,  which  were  wooded  only  with  willow  thick- 
•  •ts,  we  ascendtid  to  the  spurs  above,  and  lorted  strongly  in  ;\  small  aspeii 
Ljrove,  near  to  whi^h  was  a  spring  of  cold  water.  The  Inmtcrs  killed  two 
fine  cow  near  the  camp.  A  band  of  elk  broke  out  of  a  neiirhboring  grove; 
antelopes  were  rmniing  over  the  hills  :  and  on  tbc  o[iposite  river  plains, 
herds  of  buffalo  wore  raisin:;;  floiids  of  dust.  'I'he  coimtry  here  appealed 
more  variously  stocked  with  game  than  any  part  of  the  Ho('l<y  mjuntains 
we  had  visited  ;  and  its  abundance  i.  owing  to  the  excellent  pasturage, 
and  its  dangerous  character  rs  a  war  groflnd. 

Jutie  13. — There  was  snow  lirrt^  near  our  mountain  camp,  and  the  morn- 
ing was  beautiful  and  cool.  Leaving  St.  Viain's  fork,  we  took  oiir  way  di- 
(t'ctly  towards  the  sunmiit  of  the  dividing  ridge.  The  b(,'ttoms  of  the  streams 
and  level  places  were  wooded  with  aspens;  and  as  wo  nearcd  the  summit, 
we  entered  atjaiii  the  piiiey  region.  We  had  a  deli'^hlfnl  morning's  ride, 
the  ground  affording  us  an  e.xeellent  bridle  path,  and  reacli-al  tlu!  summit 
towards  midday,  at  an  elevation  of  8,000  feet.  With  joy  and  exnitaiion  we 
saw  ourselves  once  more  on  the  top  of  the  llocky  mountains,  and  behold  a 
little  stream  taking  its  course  towards  the  rising  sun.  It  was.iii  allluenlof 
the  Platte,  called  Piil/(i?n\f  fork,  and  we  descended  to  noon  upon  it.  It  is 
a  pretty  stream,  IweiUy  yards  broad,  and  bears  tie  name  of  a  trapper  who, 
some  years  sitice,  was  killed  hero  by  the  Gros  yentre  Indians. 

Issuing  from  the  pines  in  the  afternoon,  we  saw  spread  out  before  us  the 
valley  of  the  Platte,  with  the  ])ass  of  the  Medicine  Ihiite  beyond,  and  some 
•^f  the  Sweet  Water  mountains ;  but  a  smoky  haziness  in  the  air  entirely 
obscured  the  Wind  River  chain. 

We  were  now  about  two  degrees  soutli  of  the  South  Pass,  and  our  course 
home  would  have  been  eastwardly  ;  but  that  would  have  taken  us  over 
ground  already  examined,  and  therefore  without  the  interest  which  would 
excite  curiosity.  Southwardly  there  were  objects  worthy  to  be  explored,  to 
wit:  the  approximation  of  the  head  waters  of  three  ditlerent  rivers — the 
Platte,  the  Arkansis,  and  the  (Irand  River  fork  of  the  Rio  Colorado  of  the 
gulf  of  California  ;  the  Passes  at  the  heads  of  these  rivers;  and  the  three 
remarkable  mountain  coves,  cnlled  Parks,  in  which  they  took  their  rise. 
One  of  these  Parks  was,  of  course,  on  the  western  side  of  the  dividing  ridge; 
and  a  visit  to  it  would  re(piirc  us  once  more  to  cross  the  summit  of  the 
Rocky  mountains  to  the  west,  and  then  to  re-cross  to  the  east  ;  making,  in 
all,  with  the  transit  we  had  just  accomplished,  three  crossings  of  that  moun- 
tain in  this  section  of  its  course,  lint,  no  matter.  The  coves,  the  heads  of 
the  rivers,  the  approximation  of  their  v/aters,  the  practicability  of  the  moun- 
tain pa.sses,  and  the  locality  of  the  threk  Parks,  were  all  objects  of  inter- 
est, and,  although  well  known  to  hunters  and  trajjpers,  were  uid<nown  to 


300 


UAPT.  FRKMONTM  NARIlATrVK. 


[Ifl44. 


Nciniicu  lunl  to  history-  Wu  tliuri'loru  cliaiiu[)(l  out*  uturzic,  uitd  (uriicd  up 
tim  valley  <)(  the  IM.itiu  iiistoud  of  going  dowii  it. 

Wi)  (trosM'd  soviTiil  sinall  allliicnis,  and  again  niadt*  a  fortiflfi]  oamp  in 
a  grovi!.  Thf!  ciMiniry  had  now  hcconi"  vo/y  IhmuiiIuI — ri<:li  in  water, 
grass,  and  ;^anu:  ;  and  tu  llicsu  wore  added  tliucliuriti  ofdcuiiury  uttd  |)li.'as- 
ant  weathur. 

Jtmr  \\ — Our  ronto  lids  tnoridiig  lay  along  ilio  fool  of  tho  moiititaiii, 
ov«'r  tint  long  low  .spurs  which  >Io,mj(1  gradually  down  lo  dicrivur,  lorining 
thu  hroad  valUsy  olthu  Plallo.  Tho  conntry  is  luanlilnlly  waltTod.  In  al- 
niONt  rvciy  liolluw  ran  a  cluar,coui  iiiounlain  stream;  uiid  in  thn  cour.su  ut' 
tii(!  morning  we  crossi.'d  sovenlisuti,  sovrral  of  lluni  hoing  large  crcUs,  forty 
to  fil'ty  l'.'(!t  wide,  with  a  swift  currtMit,  and  ((tlerahly  deep.  Tlieso  w«!re 
variously  wooded  witli  groves  of  as|)eu  and  Cottonwood,  with  willow, 
cherry,  and  other  shrnhhy  trees,  nnllalo,  antelope,  and  elk,  were  frocpient 
(hiring  the  day  ;  and,  in  their  ahundanoe,  the  latter  sometimes  reminded 
us  slightly  of  the  SacraiiKMilo  valley. 

We  halted  at  noon  on  Potter's  fork — a  clear  and  swift  stream,  forty  yards 
wide,  and  in  many  [)laces  deep  enough  to  swim  our  anitnals  ;  and  in  the 
evening  encamped  on  a  pretty  stream,  where  there  were  several  beavtir 
dams,  and  iu;uiy  trees  recently  cut  down  hy  the  heaver.  We  gave  to  this 
the  name  of  IJeaviM-  Dam  creek,  as  now  thoy  are  becoming  sulUcieiilly  rare 
to  distinguish  hy  their  name  the  streams  on  which  tiK.-y  are  found.  In  this 
mountain  they  occurred  more  abundantly  than  elsewhere  in  all  our  journey, 
in  whicli  their  vestiges  had  been  scarcely  .seen. 

The  next  day  we  cc.'imied  our  journey  ii[)  Iho  valley,  the  country  pre- 
senting nmch  tlu!  same  appearance,  except  that  the  gra.ss  was  more  scanty 
on  the  ridges,  over  which  was  spread  a  scrubhy  growth  of  sago  ;  but  still 
the  bottoms  of  the  creeks  were  broad,  and  alliirded  good  pasture  grounds. 
We  had  an  animated  chase  after  a  grii:zly  boar  this  morning,  which  we 
tried  to  lasso.  Fucntes  threw  the  lasso  ii|)on  his  neck,  but  it  slipped  oil', 
and  he  escaped  into  the  dense  thickets  of  the  creek,  into  which  we  did  not 
like  to  venture.  Our  course  in  tiie  afternoon  brought  us  to  tlie  main  Platte 
river,  here  a  handsome  stream,  with  a  uiiirurju  breadth  of  seventy  yards, 
except  where  widcMied  by  freipient  islamls.  It  was  apparently  deep,  with 
a  moderate  current,  and  wooded  with  groves  of  large  willow. 

Tlic  valley  narrowed  as  wo  asfcended,  and  presently  degenerated  into  a 
gorge,  ihrou:^li  which  the  river  passed  as  ihnni^h  a  gate.  We  entered  it, 
and  found  ourselves  in  the  New  Park — a  beautiful  circular  valley  of  thirty 
miles  diameter,  walled  in  all  round  with  snowy  mountains,  rich  with  water 
and  with  grass,  fringed  with  pine  on  the  moiint;iiu  sides  below  the  snow 
line,  and  a  paradise  to  all  grazing  animals.  The  Indian  name  for  it  signi- 
fies ''  vow  loJ^e,'^  of  which  our  own  may  be  considered  a  translation  ;  the 
enclosure,  the  grass,  the  water,  and  the  herds  of  buffalo  roaming  over  it, 
naturally  juesenting  the  idea  of  a  i)ark.  We  halted  for  the  night  just  within 
the  gate,  and  expected,  as  usual,  to  see  ln-rds  of  buffalo  ;  but  an  Arapahoe 
village  had  been  before  us,  and  tiol  one  was  to  bo  seen.  Latitude  of  the 
encampment  '10°  52'  44".     Elevation  by  the  boiling  point  7,720  feet. 

It  is  from  this  elevated  cove,  and  from  the  gorges  of  the  surrounding 
mountains,  and  some  lakes  within  their  bosoms,  that  the  Great  Platte  river 
collects  its  first  waters,  and  assumes  its  first  form ;  and  certainly  no  river 
could  ask  a  more  beautiful  origin. 

June  IG. — In  the  morning  we  pursued  our  way  through  the  Park,  follow- 


[IS14. 
:iied  up 

Cdllip  111 

1  water, 
id  pk'us- 

oiuituiiw 

1.  Ill  al- 
M)»ir.so  of 
Us,  forty 

iSO    Wi'TO 

willow, 
frc(ivieiil 
ctuiiidod 

rty  yards 

1(1  Wl    till! 

il  bcavor 
ve  to  (his 
Mitly  rare 
.  Ill  this 
journey, 

iiiiry  pro- 
)ro  scanty 
;  but  still 
I  grounds, 
vliich  we 
)|»ed  oil, 
c  did  not 
aiii  Platte 
ty  yards, 
cep,  with 

ed  into  a 
ntered  it, 
f  of  thirty 
itli  water 
the  snow 
r  it  sigui- 
tion  ;  the 
ig  over  it, 
list  within 
Arapahoe 
ule  of  the 
feet. 

rrounding 
latte  river 
y  no  river 

rk,  follow- 


Ifl14.1 


CAI'T.  KKKMO.M  H  NAKHATIVK. 


ao: 


'1 


inK  n.  principal  branch  of  (ho  Pluttn,  and  crossing,  nmonq  many  smaller 
oiM'N,  H  bold  <«lit:ain,  scaicidy  forduble.rulifd  l/xLr  polu  fork, and  which  i'«- 
Mnu8  f''(ini  n  JaKr  in  ihe  nioniitaiiiit  on  th(>  rivht,  ten  miles  long.  In  the  uvcn- 
ing  >vo  encamped  onuMiiall  Kireum,nuur  (ho  upper  end  of  the  I'.irk.  Lati* 
indc  of  the  ramp  in'  ;J.i'  J2". 

June  17. — WiMiiniiiMi"  tl  our  way  anion?  the  waters  of  the  Park,  over  the 
foot  hills  of  th*^  liordrriii'^  nioiiniains,  where  we  tt)nn(l  good  paNtinage,  and 
surprised  and  killid  ^oin<>  Inilfalo.  We  lell  into  a  broad  and  excellent  (rail, 
made  by  biilialo,  u  litre  a  wauon  would  pass  with  ease  ;  and,  in  the  con;  se 
of  the  morning,  we  eiossed  the  .summit  of  ili(>  Uocky  moiniiunM,  through 
a  ]n\st>  which  was  tuie  of  (ho  inost  b(!aiitiful  we  had  i  ver  seen.  The  trail 
led  among  the  a.spuns,  through  open  grounds,  richly  covered  with  gras.s,  and 
carried  ns  ov<'r  an  •'Itvation  o|  about  !i,()no  feet  al)ov<!  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  country  ajipeared  to  great  advaniau'>  ni  iIkj  <l(;liuntfiil  sununcr 
weather  of  tli<!  niountains,  which  wu  .still  coniimKMJ  to  enjoy.  l)e»cunding 
from  the  nasN,  wo  (omul  ourselves  again  on  the  western  waters;  and  halteci 
to  noon  on  the  eilue  of  another  nionntain  valley,  culled  the  Old  Park,  in 
which  is  foinied  (iraiid  river,  one  of  the  principal  blanches  of  ilie  Colorado 
of  California.  We  were  now  moving  with  somt;  caution,  as,  fnun  the  trad, 
wo  toiind  (ho  iVrapalioe  village  had  also  passed  this  way.  As  wo  were 
coming  out  of  llieir  enemy's  country,  and  this  was  a  war  ground,  we  were 
desirous  to  avoiil  (hem.  Af(era  long  afternooirs  niariji,  wc  halted  at  night 
on  a  small  creek,  tribut.iry  to  a  main  folk  of  (irand  river,  which  ran 
through  this  portion  of  the  valley.  The  appearance  of  the  country  in  the 
Old  Park  is  inieiesling,  though  of  a  diHerenl  character  from  the  Now;  in- 
stead of  being  a  rotnparativi;  plain,  it  is  more  or  less  broken  into  hills,  and 
surrounded  by  the  high  mountains,  timbered  on  the  lower  parts  with 
quaking  avp  and  pines. 

June  18. — Our  scouts,  who  were  as  usual  alioad,  made  from  a  />k//c  tliis 
morning  the  signal  of  Indians,  and  we  rode  up  in  lime  to  meet  a  party  of 
about  '.iO  Arapahoes.  They  were  men  and  women  Loing  into  the  hills — the 
men  for  game,  the  women  for  roots — and  informed  us  tlnit  tho  village  was 
encamped  a  few  miles  above,  on  the  main  fork  of  (Jr.iiid  river,  which  passes 
through  the  rnidst  of  the  valley.  I  made  tlieiii  the  usual  prcjscnts;  but 
they  appeared  dis|)osed  to  be  unfriendly,  and  galloped  back  at  speed  to  the 
village.  Knowing  that  we  liad  trouble  to  expect,  I  descended  immediately 
into  the  bottoms  of  (irand  river,  which  wcr(M)verllowed  in  places,  the  river 
being  up,  and  made  the  best  encampment  the  ground  alforded.  Wc  had  no 
time  to  build  a  fort,  but  found  an  open  place  among  the  willows,  which  was 
defended  by  the  river  (Jii  one  side  and  the  overlluwed  bottcmis  on  the  other. 
We  had  scarcely  made  our  lew  preparations,  when  about  iiOOof  them  ap- 
peared on  the  verc:e  of  the  bottom,  mounted,  painltsd,  and  armed  for  war. 
We  planti'd  the  American  Hag  between  ns ;  and  a  short  parley  ended  in  a 
truce,  with  something  more  than  the  usual  amount  of  presents.  About  iiO 
Sioux  were  with  them — one  of  them  an  old  chief,  who  had  always  been 
friendly  to  the  whites.  He  iiiform<;d  me  that,  before  coining  down,  a  coun- 
cil had  been  held  at  the  village,  in  which  the  ureaier  part  had  declared  for 
attacking  us — we  had  come  from  their  enemies,  to  whom  we  had  doubtless 
been  carrying  assistance  in  arms  and  ammunition  ;  but  his  own  party,  with 
some  few  of  the  Arapahoes  who  had  seen  us  the  previous  year  in  the 
plains,  opposed  it.  It  will  be  remembered  that  it  is  cuslonip.ry  for  this  peo- 
ple to  attack  the  trading  parties  which  they  meet  in  this  region,  considering 


268 


CAPT.  rKLMO.NT'S  NAKIJA'J'IVE. 


[1844. 


all  whom  they  meet  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountains  to  he  their  ene- 
mies. They  deceived  me  into  the  belief  that  I  should  fijul  a  ford  at  their 
village,  and  I  could  not  avoid  accompanying  them  ;  but  put  several  sloughs 
between  us  and  their  villige,  and  forted  strongly  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
which  was  every  where  rapid  and  de('p,and  over  a  hundr'ul  yards  in  l^readtli. 
TJie  camp  \vi.z  generally  crowd'sd  with  Indians;  and  though  the  baggage 
was  carefully  watched  and  covered,  a  number  of  things  were  stolen. 

The  next  morning  we  d(;si:(!nded  the  river  for  about  eight  miles,  and 
halted  a  short  distance  above  a  canon,  tjirough  which  (irand  river  issues 
from  the  Park.  Here  it  was  smooth  and  deep,  150  yards  in  breadth,  and 
its  elevation  at  this  point  f),700  feet.  A  frame  for  the  boat  being  very  soon 
made,  our  baggage  was  frrriod  ncross;  the  Iiorses,  in  the  menu  lime,  swim- 
ming '^ver.  A  southern  fork  of  (liand  river  here  makes  its  junction, nearly 
opposite  to  the  branch  l)y  which  we  had  entered  the  valley,  .lud  up  this  we 
continued  for  about  eight  miles  in  the  afternoon,  and  encamped  in  a  bottom 
on  the  left  bank,  which  afforded  good  grass.  At  our  encampment  it  was 
70  to  90  yards  in  breadth,  sometimes  widened  by  ish-nds,  and  separated  into 
several  channels,  wiih  a  V(;ry  swift  current  and  bed  of  rolled  rocks. 

On  the  20th  we  travelled  up  the  left  bank,  with  the  prospect  of  a  bad 
road,  the  trail  here  taking  the  opposite  side  ;  but  the  st»eam  was  up,  and  no- 
where fordable.  A  piiiey  ridge  of  mountains,  with  bare  rocky  jjcaks,  v/as 
on  our  right  all  the  clay,  and  a  snowy  mountain  appeared  ahead.  We 
crossed  many  foaming  torrents  with  rocky  beds,  rushing  dov/n  to  the  river; 
and  in  tlie  evening  made  a  strong  fort  in  an  aspen  grov^'.  The  valley  had 
already  become  very  narrow,  shut  up  m©re  closely  in  densely  timbered 
mountains,  the  pines  sweeping  down  the  verge  o.  the  bottoms.  The  cor/ 
de  prairie  {Iclrao  curnp/Krsicanis)  was  occasionai'y  seen  among  the  sage. 

VVe  saw  to-day  the  returning  trail  of  an  Araralioe  parly  whicli  had  been 
sent  from  the  vi'iage  to  look  for  Totalis  in  the  Bayou  Salade,  (South  Park ;) 
and  it  bcin£'  probable  that  they  would  visi»  our  camp  with  the  desire  to  re- 
turn oii  horseback,  we  were  more  than  usually  on  tlie  alert. 

Here  the  river  diminished  to  ;3'>  yards,  and,  notwithstanding  the  number 
of  affluents  we  had  crossed,  was  stil  u  large  stream,  dashing  swiftly  by, 
with  a  great  continuous  fall,  and  not  ,'et  fordable.  We  h  id  a  delightful  ride 
along  a  good  trail  among  the  f'ragrr.iit  pines;  and  the  a;)j)earancc  of  buffalo 
in  great  numbers  indicated  that  there  were  Indians  in  the  Hayou  Salade, 
(South  Park,)  by  whom  they  were  driven  out.  We  halted  to  noon  under 
the  shade  of  tlie  pines,  and  the  weather  was  most  delightful.  The  country 
was  literally  alive  with  buti'alo ;  and  the  continued  echo  of  tiie  hiniter's 
rifles  on  the  other  side  of  the  river  for  a  moment  made  me  uneasy,  thinking 
perhaps  they  were  engaged  with  Indians;  but  in  a  short  time  they  cjxme 
into  camp  with  the  meat  of  .seven  fat  cows. 

During  the  earlier  i)art  of  the  day's  ride,  the  river  had  been  merely  a 
narrow  ravine  between  high  ])iney  mountains,  backed  on  both  sides,  but 
particularly  on  the  west,  by  a  line  of  snowy  ridges ;  but,  a  I  r  several  hours' 
ride,  tlie  stream  opened  out  into  a  valley  with  pleasant  hottoms.  In  the 
afternoon  the  river  forked  into  three  apparently  equal  streams  ;  b.oad  buffalo 
trails  leadiiig  u[)  the  left  hand,  and  the  middle  branch  indicating  <,ood  passes 
over  the  mountains  ;  but  up  the  right-hand  branch,  (which,  in  the  object  of 
descending  from  the  mountain  by  the  main  head  of  the  Arkansas,  I  was 
irost  desirous  to  follow.)  lliere  was  no  sign  of  a  buffolo  trace.  Apprehend- 
ing from  this  reason,  and  the  character  of  tlie  mountains,  which  are  known 


[1844. 

leir  ene- 
1  at  their 
1  sloughs 
;be  river, 

r^readth. 

baggage 
leii. 

liles,  and 
,'er  issues 
idth,  and 
I'eiy  soou 
lie,  swim- 
)n,  nearly 
ip  this  wo 

a  bottom 
:!Ut  it  was 
rated  into 

t  of  a  bad 

p.andno- 

caks,  v/as 

ead.     We 

the  river ; 

ralley  had 

timbered 

The  coq 

the  sagi.. 

I  had  been 

\\\\  Park ;) 

sire  to  re- 

e  number 

;\virtly  by, 

htful  ride 

of  bullalo 

\\  Salade, 

ooH  under 

e  country 

hunter's 

,  thinking 

liey  cjxme 

merely  a 
sides,  but 

ral  hours' 
.  In  the 
»ad  buft'alo 
ood  passes 
e  object  of 
sas,  I  was 
pprehend- 
ire  known 


1814.] 


CAPT,  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVC. 


2(39 


to  be  extremely  rugged,  that  the  right-hand  branch  led  to  no  pass,  I  pro- 
ceeded u[)  lli»'  middle  branch,  which  loruied  x\  Ihu  valley  bottom  between 
Innbered  ridges  on  the  left  and  snowy  mountains  on  the  right,  terminating 
in  large  huttca  of  naked  rock.  The  trail  was  good,  and  the  country  inter- 
esting ;  and  at  nightfall  we  encamped  in  ai\  open  place  among  the  pines, 
where  we  built  a  strong  fort.  The  •.noinitaiiis  exhibit  their  usual  varied 
growth  of  llowers,  and  at  this  place  i  noticed,  among  others,  thermopsiik 
niontuna,  whose  bright  yellow  color  makes  it  a  showy  plant.  Tiiis  lias 
been  a  characteristic  in  many  parts  of  the  country  since  reaching  the  Uintah 
waters.  With  fields  of  iris  were  aquilc^la  CdTidca,  violets,  esparcette,  and 
strawberries. 

At  dark,  we  perceived  a  fire  in  the  edge  of  the  pines,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  valley.  We  had  evidently  not  been  discovered,  and,  at  the  re- 
port of  a  ijun,  and  the  blaze  of  fresh  ("ucl  which  was  heaped  on  our  fires, 
those  of  the  strangers  were  instantly  extinguished.  In  the  morning,  they 
were  found  to  be  a  party  of  six  trappers,  who  had  ventured  out  among  the 
mountains  after  beaver.  They  informed  us  that  two  of  the  number  with 
which  they  started  had  been  already  killed  by  the  Indians — one  of  them 
but  a  few  days  ■^ince — by  the  .\rapahoes  we  liad  lately  seen,  who  had  found 
him  alone  at  a  camp  on  this  river,  and  carried  off  Ins  traps  and  animals. 
As  they  were  desirous  to  join  us,  the  hunters  returned  v/ith  them  to  their 
encampment,  and  we  contimied  Uj^  llie  valley,  in  which  the  stream  rapidly 
diminished,  breaking  into  small  tributaries — every  r.ollow  alfording  water. 
At  our  noon  halt,  the  hunters  j  lined  us  with  the  trup|)ers.  While  preparing 
to  start  from  their  encampment,  they  found  themselves  suddenly  surround- 
ed by  a  party  of  Arajiahoes,  who  informed  them  that  their  scouts  had  dis- 
covered a  large  Utah  vilhige  in  the  Bayou  Salade,  (South  Park,)  and  that  a 
large  war  party,  consisiing  of  almost  every  man  in  the  village,  except  those 
who  were  too  old  to  go  to  war,  were  going  over  to  attack  them.  The  main 
body  had  a.^ceiided  the  left  fork  of  the  river,  which  aflbrded  a  better  pass 
than  the  branch  wo  were  on  ;  and  this  parly  had  followed  our  trail,  in  order 
that  we  uiiglit  add  our  force  to  theirs.  Carson  informed  them  that  we  were 
too  far  ahead  to  turn  back,  but  would  join  them  in  the  bayou;  and  the  In- 
dians went  oil' apparently  satisfied,  By  thn  temperature  of  boiling  water, 
our  elevation  here  was  10,4  iO  feet;  and  sti!l  the  p.ne  forest  continued,  and 
grass  was  trood. 

In  the  ufternonn,  we  continued  our  road — occasionally  through  opon 
pines,  with  a  very  gradual  a*>cent.  We  surprised  a  herd  of  buft'alo,  enjoying 
the  shad.8  at  a  small  lake  among'  the  pines  ;  and  th<y  made  the  dry  branches 
crack,  as  they  broke  through  tue  woods.  In  a  rid^  of  about  tlu'-e-quarter- 
of  nn  hour,  and  bavin?  a*:«nded  perhaps  SOO  feet,  we  reached  the  sum- 
mit OF  TUE  DIVIDING  KiDOE,  which  would  tlius  have  an  estimated  height 
of  1  1,q:v/0  feet.  Mere  the  river  sprc  ads  itsell"  into  smal.  branches  and  springs, 
heading  n^;arly  in  the  summit  of  (he  ridge,  which  is  very  narrow.  Imme- 
diately below  us  was  a  green  valley,through  which  ran  a  stream;  and  a  short 
distance  opposite  rose  snowy  mountains,  whose  summits  were  formed  into 
peaks  of  naked  rock.  We  soon  afterwards  satisfied  ourselves  that  imme- 
diately beyond  these  mountains  was  the  main  branch  of  the  Arkansas 
river — most  probably  heading  directly  with  the  little  stream  below  ns, 
which  gathered  its  waters  in  the  snowy  mountains  near  by.  Descriptions 
of  the  rugged  character  of  the  mountains  around  the  head  of  the  Arkan- 
sas, which  their  appearance  amply  justified,  deterred  me  from  making  any 


270 


(APT.  h'KEMONT'S  NARRATIVK. 


[1844. 


W 


attempt  to  reach  il,  which  woiild  have  involved  a  greater  length  of  time 
than  now  remained  at  my  disposal. 

In  about  a  qnurter  ol  an  hour,  we  descended  from  the  summit  of  the  Pass 
into  the  creek  below,  our  ro:i(l  haviiiq;  been  very  much  cuiifiollcd  and  inter- 
rupted by  the  pines  and  ypiinirs  on  the  moinitain  side.  Turning  up  the 
stream,  wo  encamped  or.  a  Ijoltom  of  ijood  grass  near  its  head,  which  gath- 
ers its  waters  in  the  dividing  crest  of  the  Kocky  mounlain.s,  and,  according 
to  the  l)est  information  we  coidd  obtain,  se|,aratefl  only  by  the  rocky  wall 
of  the  ridge  fr'^ni  (In;  ln.'ad  of  the  main  Arkansas  river.  IJy  the  observa- 
tions of  the  evening,  the  latirudo  of  our  encampment  was  'A'l'^  20'  24",  and 
south  of  which,  therefore,  is  the  head  of  the  Arkansas  river.  The  stream 
on  which  we  had  (Micampcd  is  the  head  of  cither  the  Futilftinc-(/uibonity 
n  branch  of  the  Ark;in.'as,  (U'  the  remotest  head  of  t'le  south  fork  of  the 
Platte;  as  which,  you  will  find  it  laid  down  on  the  map.  Hut  descending 
it  only  through  a  portion  of  its  course,  we  liave  not  been  able  to  settle  this 
point  satisfactorily. 

In  tlic  eveningjU  band  ofbullalo  furnished  a  little  cxcilenient, by  charging 
through  the  canip. 

On  the  follownig  day,  we  descended  the  stream  by  an  excellent  buflalo 
trail,  along  the  open  grassy  bottom  of  the  river.  On  onr  riirht.  the  bayou 
was  bordered  by  a  moimtair.ons  range,  crested  wiili  rocK'y  and  naked  peaks; 
and  below, it  hail  a  beuutiful  paik-like  character  ol' pretty  level  prairies,  in- 
tersper.-ed  among  low  spurs,  wooded  openly  with  pine  and  quaking  asp, 
coiurasling  well  v.'ith  the  denser  pines  which  swept  around  on  tlu;  moun- 
tain sides.  Desctniiing  always  the  valley  of  the  streaiv,,  towards  noon  we 
descried  a  mounted  j)arty  do'-cending  the  point  of  a  spur, -iMd.  judging  them 
to  be  Arapahoes — wlio.  defeated  or  vi^Morious,  were  ecpially  dangerous  to 
us,  and  with  whom  a.  ll'jl;l  would  be  inevitable — we  hurried  to  post  our- 
selves as  sfroni.'ly  as  pos.viMe  on  som  ^  willow  islands  in  the  river.  W'e  had 
scarcely  halted  wlien  they  arrived,  proving  to  be  a  jiariy  of  Utah  women, 
wiio  told  us  that  on  the  otiier  sidi^  of  the  ridge  thor  villa2e  was  figliting 
with  the  ;\rai)ahoes.  As  .soon  as  they  had  iriven  us  this  inlbrniation,  they 
filled  the  air  with  cries  and  lamentations,  which  made  us  und(!rstand  that 
some  of  tlx'ir  chiefs  had  been  killed. 

Extendiiiff  along  the  river,  directly  ahead  ol'  us,  was  a  low  piney  i"i  'ge, 
leaving  l^etv.'een  it  and  the  stream  a  small  open  bottom,  on  which  the 
Utalis  had  very  injudiciously  placed  their  village,  which,  according-  to  the 
■women,  numbered  al;oui  :3f)0  warriors.  .Advaneii.o:  in  the  cover  of  the 
pines,  the  Aiopahoes,  about  daylight,  charged  iiUo  tlie  viMag'  .  driving  oil 
a  great  number  of  tlieir  horses,  and  killing  tour  men  :  among  them,  tht; 
princii)al  chief  of  the  villac:e.  They  drove  the  horses  perhaps  a  mile  be- 
yond the  village,  to  the  end  of  a  hollow,  where  they  \\v\  previously  forted 
at  the  edge  of  tjie  piiie.s.  Here  the  I'tahs  had  instantly  attacked  tliem  in 
turn,  and,  according  to  the  report  of  the  women,  were  gei.ing  rather  the 
hest  of  the  day.  The  women  pressed  us  eagerly  to  join  with  their  people, 
and  would  immediately  have  provided  us  with  the  hest  horses  at  the  vil- 
lage;  but  it  was  not  for  us  to  interfere  in  such  a  conJhcf.  Neither  party 
were  our  friends,  or  under  our  protection  ;  and  each  was  ready  to  prey 
upon  us  that  could.  Hut  we  could  not  help  feeling  an  umisual  (ixcitcrnent 
at  being  within  a  few  hunrlred  yards  of  a  fight,  in  whieh  500  men  were 
closely  engaged,  aiid  hearing  the  sharp  cracks  of  their  rilles.  Wo  were  in 
a  bad  position,  and  subject  to  be  attacked  in  it.     Kithcr  party  which  we 


[1844. 
;th  of  time 

of  the  Pass 
1  and  inter- 
line np  the 
vhich  gath- 
l,ar'cord)ng 
rocky  wall 
fic  observa- 
0'  2\'\  and 
The  si  ream 
'-(/iiiboiiit, 
fork  of  the 
descending 

0  settle  this 

by  charging 

lent  buflulo 
.  the  bayou 
aked  peaks; 
p'-airies,  in- 
iiaking  asp, 

1  the  momi- 
•ds  noon  we 
idling  them 
Miqerous  to 
to  post  our- 
er.  W'f"  had. 
fall  women, 
vas  figliting 

ition.  they 
rstand  that 

liiiey  ri  'ge, 
which  the 
till';  to  the 
»v<r  of  the 
hiving  olT 
them,  the. 
a  mile  be- 
lli:^ !y  for  ted 
:ed  them  in 
rather  <he 
leir  people, 
s  at  the  viU 
ilhcr  party 
dy  to  prey 
excitement 
men  were 
iVe  were  in 
which   we 


1844.] 


CAPT.   ritEMOiNT'S  NARRATIVR. 


271 


might  meet,  victorious  or  defeated,  was  certain  to  fall  upon  us;  and, gear- 
ing up  innnediately,  w(!  kept  close  along  the  pines  of  the  ridge,  having  it 
between  us  and  the  village,  and  keeping  the  scouts  on  the  summit,  to  give 
us  tiotice  of  the  approach  of  Indians.  As  we  passed  by  the  village,  which 
was  innnediately  l.-elow  us,  horsemen  were  galloping  to  and  fro,  and  groups 
of  people  were  gathered  aroinid  llios(^  who  were  wonnded  and  dead,  and 
who  were  being  broujlit  in  iVnm  tin;  field.  We  continued  to  |)ress  on,  and, 
crossing  another  fork,  which  came  in  from  the  right,  after  having  made 
fifteen  miles  from  the  villaire,  fortified  ourselves  strongly  in  the  jjines,  a 
short  distance  from  the  riv(;r. 

During  the  afternoon,  Pike's  Peak  had  been  plaitdy  in  vimv  before  ns, 
and,  from  our  encampmi.nt,  bore  N.  87°  E.  by  compass.  This  was  a 
familiar  object,  and  it  had  for  us  the  face  of  an  old  fnetid.  At  its  foot 
were  the  springs,  where  we  had  spent  a  pleasant  day  in  coming  out.  Near 
it  were  the  habitations  of  civilized  men;  and  it  overlook'd  the  broad 
suKtolh  plains,  which  promised  ns  an  easy  journey  to  oiir  home. 

The  next  day  we  left  the  river,  which  cominued  its  course  towards 
Pike's  Peak;  and  taking  a  southeasterly  direction,  in  abont  ten  miles  we 
crossed  a  gentle  ridge,  and,  issuing'  from  the  South  Park,  f 'Utid  ourselves 
involved  among  the  luokiMi  s|)urs  of  the  mountains  which  boid(;r  the  great 
prairie  plains.  Ahhoniih  broken  and  extremely  ruiiji^ed.  the  country  was 
very  interesting,  being  well  watered  by  ntmierousalllneiits  to  the  Arkansas 
river,  and  covered  with  grass  and  a  vari(;ly  of  trees.  'J'Ih;  str(\ain.s,  which, 
in  the  up[)er  part  of  their  conrs(!,  ran  through  grassy  and  ojen  hollows, 
after  a  lew  miles  all  descended  into  deep  and  impracticable  canons,  throngli 
which  tln^y  found  iheir  way  to  the  Arkansas  valh^y.  Here  the  butl'alo 
trails  we  had  followed  were  dispersed  among  the  hills,  or  cro.vsed  over  into 
the  more  open  valleys  of  other  streams. 

During  the  day  our  road  was  fatiguing  and  difficult,  rcmiiKhng  us  much, 
by  its  steep  and  rocky  charaeter,  of  our  travelling  the  year  before'  among 
the  Wind  river  mountains ;  but  always  at  nig!it  we  found  some  grassy 
bottom,  which  afforded  us  a  [ileasautcamp.  In  the  doi'p  seclusion  of  these 
little  streams,  we  found  always  an  abundant  pasturage,  and  a  wild  luxu- 
riance of  plants  and  trees.  Aspens  and  pines  were  the  prevailing  timber  ; 
on  the  creeks,  oak  was  frecpient  ;  l)ut  the  narrow-leaved  Cottonwood.  (;>o;;- 
u/i/s'  ('ni^usliifnlid,)  of  unusually  large  size,  and  seven  or  ci^ht  leet  in 
circumference,  was  the  j)rincipal  tr<'C.  With  these  were  mingled  a  variety  of 
shrubby  trees,  which  aided  to  make  the  ravines  almost  impenolrablc. 

After  several  days'  laborious  travelling,  we  sueceedetl  in  extricating 
ourselvf  s  from  the  mountains,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  iJ.sih  encamped 
imnHuliafely  at  their  foot,  on  a  handsome  tributary  to  the  y\rkansas  river. 
In  the  afternoon  we  descended  the  stream,  winding  our  way  along  the 
bottoms,  which  were  densely  wooded  with  oak,  and  i\\  tlu;  (jvcuing  en- 
oumped  near  the  main  river.  Continuing  the  next  day  our  r«vid  along  the 
Arkansas,  and  UKjetinif  on  the  way  a  war  party  of  Arajiahoe  Indians,  (who 
i«ad  recently  been  comnutiing  i^ome  outrages  at  Bent's  fort,  killing  stock 
and  driving  off  horses,)  we  arrived  before  sunset  at  the  Pueblo,  near  the 
mouili  of  the  Fontnine-ijui  hnidt  river,  where  we  had  the  pleasure  to  find 
a  number  of  our  old  acipiaintanccs.  The  little  settlement  appeared  in  a 
tiniving  condition  ;  and  in  (he  inlerval  of  our  absence  another  had  beeu 
established  on  the  river,  some  thirty  miles  above. 

June  30. — Our  cavalcade  moved  rapidly  down  the  Arkansas,  along  the 


272 


CAPT.  FUEMONT'.s  NAKRATF\  R. 


[1944, 


>v.' 


Inoad  ro.'id  wliicli  follows  tlic  ri'.  or,  uiid  on  liio  1st  of  July  we  arrivi'd  at 
liiMit's  fort,  about  70  miles  l)e!ow  the  immth  of  tJK*  F()n/(/ific  (/ui//ouii. 
As  we  j'liieri^ed  into  view  fr>)m  the  groves  on  tin;  river,  we  wer(^  saliilt.'il 
with  a  display  of  llie  national  Hag  and  repealed  disrharges  from  the  gim-. 
of  tin;  fori,  where  we  were  received  by  Mr.  (li-orgc;  IJenr  with  a  cordial 
welcome  and  a  friendly  hospitality,  in  (lie  enjoyment  of  which  wc  spent 
several  very  agreeable  days.  We  were  now  in  the  region  wliere  our 
nionnlaineers  were  accustomed  lo  live  ;  ami  all  t'"  dangers  and  ddlicultie- 
of  the  road  being  considered  past,  four  ol  theni,  including  Carson  and 
Walker,  remained  at  the  fort. 

On  the  fjih  we  resumed  our  journey  down  the  Aikansas,  travelling  along 
a  broad  wagon  rt^id,  and  encamped  about  Iwcniy  nnles  below  the  fort. 
On  tln>  way  we  met  a  very  large  villag<!  of  Sioiix  and  (Micyeimo  Indians, 
who,  with  the  Arapahoes,  were  retiUMiiiii;  from  the  crossing  of  the  Arkaii- 
sa.'',  where  they  had  been  to  meet  the  Kioway  and  ramancJK!  Indians. 
A  few  days  jtrevious  they  liad  massa'Mcd  a  party  of  fifteen  Delawares, 
whom  ihey  had  discovered  in  a  Ion  on  the  Smoky  Hill  river,  losing  in  the 
allair  several  of  their  own  peopU;.  'riii;y  were  desirons  that  W(!  sliouM 
bear  a  pacific  message  to  the  Delawares  on  the  frontier,  from  whom  tiiey 
expected  retaliation  ;  and  we  j)assed  through  them  wiliiont  any  dilliculty 
or  delay.  Dispersed  over  the?  plain  in  scuitercd  bodie:'!  of  horsemen,  and 
family  groups  of  women  and  children,  v\'ith  dog  trains  car»-ving  baggage,  and 
long  lines  of  pack  horses,  their  appearance  was  picturesque  and  imposing. 

.Agreeably  to  your  instructions,  wliit-h  reipiirc^d  me  to  complete,  as  far  as 
practicable,  our  examina  inns  of  the  Kansas,  I  left  at  ihis  encampment  the 
Arkansas  nvt'r,  taking  a  northeasterly  direclion  across  llie  elevated  dividing 
grounds  which  separate  ihut  river  from  th(!  waters  of  the  Plalte.  On  the 
7th  we  crossed  a  large  stream,  about  forty  yards  wide,  and  one  or  two  feet, 
deep.  Il  iwing  with  a  lively  current  on  a  sandy  bed.  The  discolored  and 
muddy  appearance  of  the  water  indicated  that  it  proceeded  from  recen* 
rains;  and  we  an;  inclined  to  (Consider  this  a  Ijranch  of  the  Smoky  Iliii 
river,  ahhough,  possibly,  it  may  be  the  Pawnee  fork  of  the  Arkansas.  15e- 
yond  lliis  stream  we  travelled  over  high  and  level  prairies,  haltingat  small 
puids  and  holes  of  water,  and  using  for  our  fires  tin;  boi.'i  i/c.  viiche,  the 
country  being  wiihout  limber.  On  the  evening  of  the  Sth  we  encamped 
in  a  Cottonwood  grove  on  the  baidcs  o{  a  sandy  stream  bed,  where  there 
was  water  in  holes  sntiicient  for  the  camp.  Here  several  hollows,  or  dry 
cretdv>  with  sandy  beds,  met  together,  tbriniiig  ihe  head  of  a  stream  whicli 
afterwards  proved  to  be  the  Smoky  Hill  fork  of  the  Kansas  river. 

The  next  morning,  as  we  were  leaving  our  encampment,  a  number  of 
Arapahoe  Iiuiians  were  discovered.  They  belonged  to  a  war  party  whicl: 
had  scattered  over  the  prairie  in  returning  from  an  expedition  against  the 
Pawnees. 

As  we  travelled  down  the  valley,  water  gathereo  rapidly  in  the  sandy 
bed  from  many  little  tributaries ;  and  at  evening  it  had  become  a  hand- 
some stream,  fifty  to  eighty  feet  in  width,  with  a  lively  current  in  smaK 
channels,  ihe  water  being  principally  dispersed  among  quicksands. 

Gradually  enlarging,  in  a  fev.'  days'  march  it  became  a  river  eightv 
yards  in  breadth,  wooded  wit!)  occasional  groves  of  cottonwood.  Our  ro  d 
was  generally  over  level  uplands  bordering  the  river,  which  were  clo?-^''; 
covered  with  a  sward  of  bulfalo  grass. 

On  the  lOlh  we  entered  again  the  butfalo  range.,  where  we  had  foimd  these 


n 


II 
il 
Ir 

S( 

d 


m 


[1944. 

arriviid  at  • 
(juihonit. 

XV    S.lllltt.'tl 

a  cordial 

wc  spuiit 

wliuro  oil! 

didicultio- 

arson  ami 

illingaloiu; 
V  tho  i'oir. 
le  Indians, 
lie  Alkali - 
U!  Indians. 
Delawaros, 
i.sing  in  tlie 
W(!  slionlil 
vliom  tliL'V 
y  dilliciilty 
semen,  and 
ggage,  and 
injiosing. 
[e,  as  I'ar  as 
iipnient  the 
ed  dividing 
e.     On  tho 
or  two  fet'i 
olored  ami 
roni  recen' 
nioky   Hii'- 
I'sas.     IJe- 
ngat  sinal! 
vdche,  the 
encampod 
lere  there 
ws,  or  dry 
earn  which 
er. 

number  of 
arty  whicl: 
igainst  the 

the  sandy 
e  a  hand- 
t  in  smaK 
ds. 

ver  eightv 
Our  ro  J 
ere  clof^-ly 

bnnd  these 


1 841.1 


(;A»*'J'.   rUK.MONT'.S  iN'AUIlATIVK. 


'il\\ 


unhn.ds  so  almndani  on  uin'  outward  joinncy,  and  halted  loi-  ;i  (Jay  among 
'    nmnerons  herds,  in  order  to  njake  a  j)roviM()n  ol   meat  siujicient  to  carry 
ns  lo  the  IronliiM'. 

A  \\'\v  days  a  Iter  wards,  wi;  (MieampiMl,  in  a  phias.mt  evf;ning,  on  a  high 
river  prairn',  the  slrcam  hciir.^'  ii'ss  ilian  a  himdrcd  yards  hroaih  During 
ihc  ni^ht  wc  had  a  succession  ol'lhunchr  storms,  with  heavy  and  eoiilinu- 
<>ns  rain,  and  towards  morning  the  water  suddenly  hurst  over  ihe  hanks, 
ll(»o(lum  the  hoitonis.aud  hecouiinga  larve  river,  hve  or  si.v  lunidred  yards 
in  lireadlh.  'I'he  darkness  ol  ih(!  night  and  incessant  rain  had  concealed 
(Vom  th(!  ynartl  tin;  rise  ol'  the  waler;  and  tlu;  river  broke  into  tiie  cainn 
so  suddenly,  that  the  haggagt;  was  instantly  covered,  aini  all  our  perislKihle 
eollections  almost  (julireiy  ruin«'(|,  and  the  haid  lahor  of  many  months 
destroytui  in  a  moment. 

On  the  17th  wo.  discovered  a  lar:i:e  villauM?  oi'  Indians  encamped  at  Ihe 
moinli  of  a  handsomely  woodid  siream  on  the,  nuhl  hank  oC  the  river. 
Readily  inCerring,  iVom  the  naliu'e  ol'  the  encampmeiil,  that  ihey  were 
i'awiic(>  hidians,  and  confidendy  expecting  uood  treatment  I'roin  a  peophi 
who  receive  regular'y  an  annuity  i'rom  the  (Jovernment,  wc;  procet!ri(;(|  di- 
rectly to  the  village,  whert!  \wv  found  asseiuhled  nearly  all  the  I'awiiee  tril)e, 
who  were  now  returning  from  the  cuossing  of  the  Arkansas,  wlieri,-  lh(!y 
had  met  ihe  ICioway  and  ('ainanc'iie  Indians.  We  w(!re  reeeived  hy  them 
wiih  tiie  nnlViciioly  rudeness  and  ehai'ai'teristie  insolence  wliieii  iliey  iieV(;r 
I'til  lo  (hs|)lay  whenever  ihey  lind  an  occasion  lor  doing  so  with  impunity. 
'I'he  litili'  tiiat  nnnained  of  our  goods  was  distrihuled  amont,'  them,  hut 
proved  (Mitirely  insuliicient  lo  satisfy  their  giecMJy  rapae-iiy;  and,  after  some 
delay,  and  coiisiderahU;  dilliciilty.  we  succeeded  in  e\uicaling  ourselves 
from  the  village,  and  encamped  on  the  river  ahout  fift(!en  miles  l)elow.* 

Tlie  country  through  which  we  had  l)eeu  travelling  since  leaving  the 
Ark'ansas  river,  for  a  distaii'-e  of  iifiO  miles,  presented  to  the  eye  only  a 
succession  of  far-stretching  LM'eeii  prairies,  covercal  with  the  nuhrolcen  ver- 
dure of  the  huU'alo  grass,  and  sparingly  woodeij  along  Ihe  strtiams  with 
straggling  irees  and  occasional  groves  of  cottouwood;  !)Ul  li';re  the  country 
h((gan  perceptihly  to  (iliaimc!  its  ciiaracttir,  lu^coming  a  more  fertile,  woodt^d, 
and  heautiful  region, eovered  with  a,  profusion  of  grassi-s,  and  watered  with 
iimumerahlt!  little  streams,  which  were  woode(|  wilh  oak.  large  elms,  and 
the  usual  varieties  of  timher  eonnnon  'to  the  lower  course  of  the  Kansas 
river. 

As  we  advanced,  the  coimtry  sti^adily  unproved,  i;ratlually  assimilating 
itself  in  appearance  to  the  northwestern  pan  of  the  State  of  Missouri.  The 
beautiful  sward  of  the  hud'alo  irrass,  which  is  regarded  as  the  best  and 
most  nutritious  found  on  the  prairies,  appeared  now  only  in  patches,  hcmg 
j'cplaced  by  a  longer  and  coarsiu*  grass,  wliich  covered  the  face  o(  the  coun- 
try luxuriunlly.  The  diti'erence  in  llie  character  of  tlie  grasses  became 
suddenly  evident  in  the  weakened  condition  of  our  auinials,  which  began 
sensibly  to  fail  as  soon  as  we  cpiilted  the  buH'alo  grass, 

'I'he  river  ))r(!servcd  a  uniform  breadth  of  eighty  or  a  hundred  yards, 
'.vith  broad  botioms  continuously  timbered  w;ih  large  Cottonwood  trees, 
among  which  were  interspersed  a  few  other  varieties. 


•  III  a  rt'cont  report  to  the  'lepiirtinnit,  fioiu  Major  Wli.tvton,  who  vislloil  the  Piiwnei'  viiUitri,^ 
with  ii  militury  Uirt'i' some  iiioiiths  al'tirw.uds,  it  i.s  slali'il  ihut  llu-  Imhiiii8  huil  intfiidid  to  attack 
our  party  duriny:  the  night  wo  remained  at  this  encampment,  but  \\ «  ^'  proMmted  by  the  interposition 
of  the  Pawnee  Luiips. 
IS 


274 


CAPT.  FKEMONT'8  NARKATIVE. 


While  ongagod  in  crossiiig  one  o('th(»  imiuerons  creeks  which  fiotiiieDtly 
impedfil  uiid  chfcK'ed  our  way,  sotniitiiiies  oljhLMiig  iis  to  ascend  them  for 
several  miles,  one  of  the  i>eo|)lr!  (Alexis  Ayol)  was  sfiot  ihronuh  the  le^  hy 
tlie  aecideiitiil  (hschnri,^;  of  a  rille— a  mortifying  and  |Kunful  mis(;!iance. 
to  he  rri|)i)led  for  life  hy  an  aeeidt-nt,  al'UM-  having  nearly  aecomplished  in 
safety  a  long  and  eventtul  journey.  lie  was  a  young  man  of  remarkahly 
good  and  cheerful  tcMUper,  and  had  heiMi  auiong  the  usefid  and  efljcicnl 
men  of  lh(;  party. 

Afirr  having  travelled  directly  along  ils  hanks  for  two  himdred  and 
ninety  miles,  wo  left  the  river,  wliere  it  hon^  suddenly  olf  in  a  northwesterly 
direction,  towards  its  junction  with  the  Repuhlican  fork  of  tin;  Kansas,  dis- 
tant ahout  sixty  miles;  and, continuing  otn*  easterly  course,  in  ahout  twenty 
iiules  we  ( iilert'd  ihc  wagon  road  from  Santa  Fe  to  Independence,  and  on 
the  last  day  of  .Inly  encamped  again  at  the  little  town  of  Kansas,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Missouri  river. 

During  otu'  protracted  ahsence  of  fourteen  months,  in  the  course  of  which 
we  had  necessarily  been  exposed  to  great  varieties  of  weather  and  of  climate, 
no  one  case  of  sickness  had  ever  occurred  among  us. 

Here  ended  our  land  journey;  and  the  day  I'ollowing  our  arrival,  wi; 
found  ourselves  on  hoard  a  steamboat  raj)i(Jly  gliding  down  tlie  broad 
Missouri,  Our  travel-worn  animals  had  not  been  sold  and  di.s[)ersed  ov(.'r 
tlie  country  to  renewed  labor,  hut  were  ])laced  at  good  pasturage  on  the 
frontier,  and  are  now  ready  to  do  their  part  in  the  coming  expedition. 

On  the  fith  of  August  w(!  arriv(Kl  at  St.  Louis,  where  the  party  was 
finally  ilisbanded  ;  a  great  ninnber  of  tin;  men  having  their  homes  m  the 
neighborhood. 

Andreas  Fuentes  also  remained  hen;,  having  readily  found  employment 
for  the  winter,  and  is  one  of  the  men  engaged  to  accompany  nu;  the  present 
year. 

Pablo  Hernandez  remains  in  the  family  of  Senator  Henton,  where  he  is 
well  taken  care  of,  and  conciliates  good  will  by  his  docility,  intelligence,  and 
amiability.  OcMUM'al  Almonte,  the  Mexican  minister  at  Washington,  to 
whom  he  was  of  course  made  known,  kindly  olUu'cd  to  take  charge  of 
him,  anil  to  carry  bun  back  to  Mexico;  but  the  boy  preferred  to  remain 
where  he  was  luitil  he  got  an  education,  for  which  he  shows  equal  ardor 
and  ajititude. 

Our  Chinook  Indian  had  his  wish  to  .sei;  the  whites  fidly  gratified.  He 
accomi)ani(Hj  me  to  Washington,  and,  after  remaining  several  months  at 
tilt!  ("olumbia  college,  was  sent  by  the  Indian  department  to  Philadelphia, 
where,  among  other  things,  he  learned  to  read  and  write  well,  and  .speak 
tlie  Kimiish  language  with  some  (luency. 

He  will  accompany  me  in  a  few  days  to  the  frontier  oi  Missouri,  whence 
he  will  l)e  sent  with  some  one  of  the  emigrant  con\panies  to  the  village  at 
the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  .servant, 

.1.  C.  FREMONT, 
/>'/.  C(fp/.  Topi.  Phii^iiieoj's. 


[184^ 

VoiiiKintfy, 
1  tlicni  for 
th(!  It'll;  l>y 
uisclmiKM!. 
plislicd  ill 

iinark'iihly 
d  I'diciciit 

ulird  and 
liwt'storly 
aiisas,dis- 
lUt  twenty 
ce,  and  on 
>ns,  on  the 

3  of  which 
of  cU  mate, 

iirival,  W(! 
the  hroad 
ersed  over 
a2;o  on  the 
htion. 
party  was 
nies  m  the 

nployment 
ic  present 

icre  he  is 
L!:ence,atul 
inL^ton,  to 
charge  of 
to  remain 
qnal  ardor 

fled.  He 
months  at 
iladelphia, 
and  speak 

ri,  whence 
village  at 


Wf 


(JAPT.  I' lU; MONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


IWHLK  OK  DISTANCES 


ALOKti 


•J75 


Till:  ROAU  TRAVKM.HIJ  in     I'lIK  KM'KDITION  IN   1843  AND  lrt41. 


OlITWAim   .FOIIINKV. 


From  Kunnas  Lauding  to  Fort  I'ancouver. 


1 

S  to 

1 

S  to 

>      >* 

,s.s 

"^  S' 

^2 

2^ 

—  n 

i-^ 

■~  "2 

** 

4.    3 

Diitp. 

5-  -r 

5-  J* 

liOrnliticH. 

Diitf. 

9  "Z 

CiS 

liOciiliticH. 

M 

5  ■/. 
«M   It 

s  2 

|i 

11 

■n   c 

1 

11. 

^tS 

i:u:}. 

MUvs. 

Mi/n. 

)Hl:t. 

.1///,  .s. 

.V/Av. 

Muv   29 

1 

7 

Julv    29 

0 

S07 

30 

22 

2U 

30 

21 

831 

31 

20 

5.') 

31 

30 

8I>I 

June      I 

23 

78 

Aug.     1 

20 

Hs't 

2 

23 

100 

1                2 

31 

918 

Mi'iliiiMt!  n.)sv  rivir. 

3 

23 

123 

1            :J 

20 

914 

\ 

IK 

141 

4 

18 

902 

Norllr  fork. 

.'i 

I'J 

UiO 

0 

19 

9S1 

«i 

14 

174 

7 

30 

1,011 

7 

8 

182 

8 

2!» 

1,010 

S 

5 

187 

Junciioii    ol'  Smi)ky 

9 

20 

1,000 

Swcrt  W liter. 

Hill    and    Rqtub- 

10 

23 

1,089 

liciin  forks. 

11 

29 

1,118 

10 

1 

188 

1              l'^ 

25 

1,113 

11 

24 

212 

13 

S     " 

l,lo2 

South  Pasts. 

1-J 

28 

240 

Jir, 

1,107 

13 

18 

258 

14 

2r) 

1,192 

14 

17 

27.0 

l!-i 

29 

1  "^i 

fireen    river,    or   Uio 

If) 

21 

290 

Colorado. 

17 

14 

310 

10 

26 

1,247 

18 

23 

333 

17 

21 

1,208 

I'J 

18 

3r,i 

IS 

32 

1,300 

■^0 

2fi 

377 

19 

28 

1,328 

•z\ 

27 

404 

20 

30 

1,3.'J8 

'i-i 

2() 

4:J0 

21 

20 

1,384 

23 

2G  ; 

4.'Jfi 

22 

37 

1,421 

24 

34     I 

490 

23 

12 

1,133 

2r) 

2« 

r)10 

f'ro--iMcf  of  tiie  Rc- 

24 

t>o 

i,!.--,:) 

puLilican. 

2"! 

H 

1,403 

Heer  Springs. 

•       26 

24     ; 

.'J40 

20 

21 

1,184 

27 

27     1 

.'J67 

1             27 

21 

1,.")05 

28 

30     < 

.'i97 

28 

27 

I,r):j2 

29 

21  ; 

018 

29 

17 

i,r)49 

30 

2fi     ' 

044 

Huuth  fork. 

30 

19 

1,508 

Inly       ! 

32 

070 

31 

20 

1,.'J94 

2 

29 

7(tr> 

Sept.     1 

22 

1,010 

3 

28 

733 

2 

17 

1,1.33 

4 

18 

7.')1 

8(.  VruinV'  fort. 

i            :' 

3 

I.<i36 

Modlli  of  Bear  river. 

2fi 

4 

7.'i.'i 

i              4 

0 

1,042 

27 

20 

781 

a 

27 

1,009 

28 

20     ■ 

HOI 

6 

25 

1,094 

)^7f» 


CAPT.   FHEMONT'H  NAIUIATIVE. 
TAHLK  OK  DISTANCES— Coiitiiiuctl. 


!  h ' 

If 

i 

1 

|4- 

<S^ 

D«to.    1 

1 

11 

11 

3J 

Itiirul 

ilicM. 

t 

1HI3. 

Is 

T.iKiililii-H. 

1R43. 

Miln. 

J///M. 

iU/A.t. 

Milen. 

Mppt.     8        M 

1,714 

Shore   of 

tlio  Salt 

(tcl.      11 

24 

2,254 

lake. 

10 

It 

2,250 

Fori  lioiw's 

0 

H 

1,723 

iNlamI   ill 
liiki>. 

the  Salt 

11 

12 

20 
27 

2,270 
2,303 

10 

28 

i,7r)0 

13 

20 

2,323 

1» 

13 

1,703 

M 

22 

2,345 

13 

27 

1.7!)0 

1 

If) 

20 

2,371 

14 

2t 

l.Sll 

' 

in 

i3 

2,384 

Ifi 

Hi 

l,N33 

17 

21 

2,40ft 

1« 

2U 

I.Hf)!) 

1 

18 

20 

2,425 

17 

24 

I,HH3 

19 

21 

2,440 

18 

23 

l.'.MIfi 

Fort  Hull. 

' 

20 

12 

2,158 

aa 

12 

1,918 

1 

21 

ft 

2,403 

84 

lU 

1,028 

Aiinririin 

lulU    on  1 

22 

Ifl 

2,479 

Lewis's 

I'nrk.          ! 

S4 

18 

2,497 

2r, 

13 

1,!»41 

85 

18 

2,5  IB 

'^(> 

17 

i.yrjB 

t 

8« 

3 

2,518 

Fort   Np/,    Perci!,    at 

27 

20 

1,078 

1 

llu'  iiiniitli  of  Wa 

S8 

25 

2,003 

1 

1 

lnhwiiiiiii  rivci. 

2« 

24 

•J,  027 

( 

28 

10 

2,537 

30 

2(i 

2,053 

1 

20 

10 

2,550 

Ucl ,       I 

10 

•J.OfiO 

1 

30 

21 

2,577 

2 

2!) 

2,098 

1 

1 

31 

20 

2,003 

3 

10 

2,114 

, 

Nov.     1 

23 

2,020 

4 

19 

2,131 

2 

19 

2,015 

ft 

2(i 

2,  ir.o 

3 

17 

2,002 

H        3!i 

2,  1 8 1 

4 

14 

2,''i70 

'  Diillfs. 

7 

23 

2,20 » 

0  &  7 

90 

2,700 

Fort  Van''i"'ivri. 

8 

2li 

2,230 

i 



!>• 


J.iii. 


rrOMKM  AHI)    .101  RNKV. 


Finm  the  Da  I  Irs  (a  the  Missouri  river. 


a 

"3  .• 

e 

i  t 

1 

si- 

.£2 

Date. 

11 

Milea. 

Loc:iliti(>.s. 

1 

1 

1 

Dull-. 
1843. 

ll 

Jiocalilie'i. 

1843. 

Milen. 

1 

Miles. 

Miles. 

Nov.  25 

12 

12 

Dec.     4 

9 

147 

20 

22 

34 

6 

11 

158 

27 

13 

47 

6 

19 

177 

28 

21 

68 

7 

25 

202 

29 

21 

89 

8 

19 

821 

30 

10 

99 

9 

14 

235 

Dec.       1 

0 

105 

10 

15 

250 

TiairiHth  lak". 

«t 

11 

110 

1 

12 

5 

255 

3 

22 

138 

1 

13 

12 

267 

J'cl.. 


TAPT.  FREMONT'S  NAHHATIVE. 
TARLK  OK  DISTANCES— Continued. 


in 


IVK. 


Duti<. 


Doc.    II 


Prrio,  al 
III  (if  Wa- 
I  rivci. 


IH'H. 
.I.in.       1 


'IVCI. 


7.  ja 


S^     « 


ytiks. 


16 
17 
18 

iU 

uu 
83 

23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
2i) 

ao 

31 


Fel. 


0 
SO 

21 
2(1 

0 
20 

7 
l.S 
14 
21 
24 
lU 
l.'i 
17 
Ih 


a 

7 

4 

7 

ft 

>> 

(> 

15 

<l 

11 

10 

10 

11 

10 

12 

0 

I.T 

1-2 

U 

!» 

!;■) 

I.: 

Mi 

18 

17 

IS 

8 

I'J 

18 

20 

5 

21 

24 

22 

14 

23 

25 

24 

20 

25 

25 

27 

12 

28 

12 

29 

7 

30 

11 

:h 

26 

o 

IH 

a 

'   7 

4 

3 

7 

4 

8 

I 

10 

o 

Mihs. 

2H8 

uoo 

318 
:124 
Mi 

3(i.') 
UUl 
31)7 
42ti 

4;i3 

44G 
4U0 
481 
505 
521 
.'■):if) 

.')7l 


501 

(iUi 

ti23 

630 

632 

647 

658 

6(18 

678 

681 

606 

705 

'.17 

735 

7o7 

765 

7m3 

788 

812 

826 

851 

871 

806 

008 

020 

927 

938 

964 

080 

087 

990 

994 

005 

908 


Hiitinnrr  lake 


Liil{o  AIhtI. 


ChriHtmns  Ink". 


D«to. 


IM44. 
Ki'l..  20 

3 

21 

23 
24 

3 

5 
12 

(in;ii  Moiling spriii!?. 


Pyniiuiil  liiki 


25 
26 

27 

28 

Miircli  1 

2  \  3 

<t 

5 

6 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

20 

/nrii    1 

3 


6 
7 

s 
<i 

10 

11 

12 

13 

11 
15 
17 
18 
10 
•JO 


23 
24 
25 
27 
28 
29 
30 
1 


May 


2 
3 
4 
6 


14 
II 

1 
10 

6 
10 

7 
20 
31 
16 
IH 
21 
42 
17 

8 
ID 
'Z-i 
18 
37 
15 
50 

t; 

31 
10 
24 
15 

'JV 

M 
'M 
30 
3 
15 
33 

20 
33 

8 
25 
43 
12 

7 
24 
15 
12 
18 
57 
18 


1,001 

1,(106 

1,000 

1,011 

1,026 

1,040 

l.d.H 

1,055 

1,065 

1,071 

1,081 

1,088 

1,108 

1,142 

1,158 

1,176 

1,107 

1,2:19 

1,256 

I, --64 

l,2M 

1,296 

l,3H 

l,3r)| 

l,36(i 

1,116 

1,122 

1,153 

I,IU3 

1,517 

1,532 

1,55') 

1,501 
1,623 
1,662 
1,665 
1,680 
1,713 

1,733 

1,766 

1,774 

,  1,799 

;  1,^12 

1,854 

1,861 

1,885 

1,000 

1,012 

1,930 

i  1,987 

2,005 


l.'>rulili(<H. 


Snmniil  <)!"  thr  Sirrrsi 
iN('vii<Ih. 


Nucvii  H«'lvrti!i. 


Pass     III    tlir 
rs'r\ii(l;i. 


i>lprru 


Sjmnish  tr.ii!  ;>l   M' 
liuhvi  river. 


Rio  Virgrn. 


378 


l'AI»T.  FREMONT'S  NAKKATIVE. 


TAHU:  OF  DISTAN'CKS— Cojiliniicd. 


iif. 


Date. 


IHII. 

M.iv     ^ 

H 

\) 

10 

11 

18 
19 
lA 
10 
17 
l» 
2(1 
•J  I 
'J" 
23 
84 
2:) 
'^li 
27 
2S 
•Jf) 
:i() 
:;i 
I 

3 
5 
U 
7 


luiio 


0 

lU 

11 

18 
13 
14 

IT) 
Ki 
17 
18 
10 
20 


l.ociilili*'-). 


ill 

IH 
I 
84 
18 
14 

ir> 

81 
17 
17 
27 
'ii 
:il 
23 
12 
2:J 
32 

<J 
88 
2.T 
2r) 
31 
lO 
Ki 

S 
21 
2'i 
15 
3(» 

3a 

30 
30 
8fi 
2« 
23 

o  r 

26 
33 
13 
IG 
27 


VcguH  lit!  Niintii  Clurn. 


2,  (I  I. -I 

2.(M3 

2.031 

2,0.">8 

2,070 

8,084 

2,0U» 

8,180 

8,137 

8,1A4 

8,  HI 

'J,-.Jtt3 

2,231 

2,2r.7 

2,2«'J  •  Hcvirr  river 

2,8U8  I 

2,384  I 
j  2,3;}3  ,  L'liih  Ilk' . 

2,355 

2,3S(» 

2,405 
1  2, 13»i 
:  2.45:i 

2,. His 
j  2,47(1 
'  2,1!i7 

2,r)23 
I  2,5:i8 
j  8,568 

2,r,()4 

2,(i34 

2,«i(i4 

2,)i90 

2,716 

2,739 
I  2,7fi4 
j  2,7!MI 
i  2,823 

2,836 

2,852 

2,870 


(.'iritah  fort. 


Grcrtj  rivrr,  (llrown'8 
liolr.) 


Now  I'ark. 
Old  Park. 


Aug. 


9 

27 

10 

28 

18 

24 

13 

30 

15 

10 

Hi 

83 

17 

32 

18 

24 

19 

29 

20 

ii!t 

21 

23 

22 

17 

23 

20 

24 

22 

25 

1!) 

20 

24 

27 

18 

28 

22 

29 

12 

30 

12 

31 

8 

1 

7 

3.270 
3.21IS 

'')•'-" 
3.  •.152 
3,3«v{ 
3,3sr. 
3.417 
3,111 
3,  nil 
3,  ni'.l 
3,5:3 
3,53!) 
3,.'i(i-) 
:i,5S7 
3,<;o(i 

3,fi30 
3,(i'lH 
3,(i70 
3,  (iH2 
3. 694 
3,702 
3,70!) 


liDCIllilil'N. 


niivitu  Hiilmlc,  (Hiiutli 
I'urk.) 


I'liililii,    on   llii'    .\r- 
k.iiiHiiH. 

Hint's  fori. 


Hi'uil  wiitrr  of  Hninky 
Mill     lork     ol     llu< 

KiiiisiiH, 


Iviiisiis  Janihiiu 
Mi.sKiJuri  iImt. 


■iililii'M. 


<alii.lc,  (M.iutli 
) 


on  the    Ar- 


)rt. 


itpr  of  Smoky 
orlv     ol     llu' 


riviT. 


